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ABSTRACT

This report consists of seven chapters:Company Introduction, Computer Software Installation, Computer Peripherals Installation and Configuration, Troubleshooting, Desktop PC Assembling, Networking.

DECLARATION
I hereby declare that I myself prepared the report to implement the curricular requirement of Bachelor of Computer Science offered by department of Computer Science at St. Joseph Institute of Information Technology.

TRAINING SUPERVISOR NAME.. SIGNATURE. DATE:

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
First of all, I would kindly like to thank the Almighty God for giving me health, strength, and guidance to prepare this report. For the successful accomplishment of this report there are people who in one way or another helped me out. They give me their time, material support, intellectuals and moral support It could be difficult to mention all of them but Im extremely grateful to all. However some deserve special thanks and I cannot avoid mentioning them. My sincere thanks go to my academic supervisors from SJIIT for their guidance and magnificent support, encouragement, valuable ideas and helpful criticisms which enabled me to improve and shape this work up to this point. Furthermore; I am indebted very distinctive thanks to my lovely family and friends as they have contributed to the success of this report work, either morally or materially. Furthermore; I would like to thanks my Guardians Mr. and Mrs. Gachuma, and my beloved relatives Richard, Godfrey. May the almighty God be with them forever.

TABLE OF CONTENTS
ABSTRACT.....................................1 DECLARATION..2 ACKNOWLEDEGMENT3 INTRODUCTION.5 COMPUTER SOFTWARE INSTALLATION.6 TROUBLESHOOTING32 COMPUTER PERIPHERAL INSTALLATION AND CONFIGURATION........................................................................................41 NETWORKING...65 CONCLUSION.72

INTRODUCTION NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF TRANSPORT is one of the most reliable institutes of transport which provides the sufficient knowledge on different matters like information technology, clearing and forwarding as well as driving. The institute is located in Dar es salaam at Mabibo just ten kilometers from sheklango road. Actually it is located at one of the most attractive area.

COMPUTER SOFTWARE INSTALLATION Operating System Installation


Installation of Windows 7 Ultimate Preparing the DVD from the ISO image DVD should be burned from the downloaded ISO image. You will need a DVD Burner, DVD burning software and a blank DVD-R or DVD-RW to prepare the installation disk. I used a Sony single layer DVD-R as media and used Nero 8 as the DVD burning software. But for those who don't have Nero installed, so using the DVD burning software of your choice burn the Windows 7 ISO image to the DVD. Make sure you choose the very low burning speed, 4x or 8x, for better results. Setting up your Computer & BIOS changes (If necessary) Now reboot your computer after popping in the all new Windows 7 DVD you just created in to the DVD Drive. In most cases if you do this you'll automatically boot in to the Windows 7 Installation DVD. But in some cases if the Boot device order is changed in the BIOS it may boot in to your older OS, instead of our DVD. In that case you'll need to change the BIOS settings to get it done (More details in a different tutorial). Booting Up and First Installation Steps Steps from here are pretty straight forward.Its good to read the descriptions in each pages before clicking the Next button to avoid any disasters. If there are options to choose in these steps, you may find them with each image. In the very first step, the black screen with progressing bar showing that the windows is loading files, followed by another black screen with Microsoft Corporation and progress bar which leads you to the following image steps.

You may choose your Language options by selecting the dropdowns 'Language to install', 'Time and Currency format' and 'Keyboard or input method' here. I decided to leave everything to 'US' but it would be better for selecting the correct settings here for non-english users.

This screen shows where the installation wizard begins. The install now options will leads to the advanced install options. For repairing a corrupt installation the 'Repair your computer' button located at the bottom-left can be used. For fresh installs just click the Install now button.

Tick the 'I accept the license terms' checkbox and click 'Next' to proceed.

Select the type of installation.

This screen provides two options, Upgrade and Custom (advanced). The upgrade option is for those who wish to upgrade an existing installation of older version of Windows to Windows 7. It is confirmed that Windows Vista can be upgraded to Windows 7 without any issues, but Windows XP is still a problem. Select the install location

Clicking on the 'Custom' button brings the install location selection screen. In the test machine we have an un-partitioned empty disk. But in the case of a normal installation all your hard drive partitions (e.g. C:\, D:\ etc.) will be listed here. Choose the drive as you like (a 15 GB size is recommended). Make sure the drives dont have any important data or the Windows 7 installation will wipe-out the contents of that partition. You can back up the data to another partition (e.g. for installing in D:\ drive move important files from there to say E:\ drive or to an external usb drive) for safe keeping.

Partitioning /Creating or Modifying Partitions

Click the Drive options (advanced) for advanced partition management options like 'Delete', 'Format', New and 'Extend'. To create a new partition, click the New button. But if you have list of partitions in the previous screen, choose the one where you are planning to install windows 7 and click Format. Then click 'Next' to proceed.

The 'New' option provides a text box to enter the size of the partition you wish to create in MBs. A 15 GB (15*1024 = 15360 MB) is recommended. In this case I opted for the full size of my virtual drive, i.e. 9216 MB. Click the Apply button to continue. You may be greeted with a message To ensure that all Windows features work correctly, windows might create additional partitions for system files. . This is a new feature in Windows 7 to have a small boot partition for system files. Click Ok to continue.

A new primary partition of 8.8 GB is created along with a System type partition of 200 MB. Select the partition you just created and click Next button to continue.

All right, here now the Windows 7 installation begins. Time to grab a cup of coffee for and wait for 15 - 30 minutes for the all new OS!

In this session the instillation proceeds though the series of screen shots which involves a reboot. No user interaction is required for this Part. 1 2

This part of Windows 7 installation covers the Windows Product code (Serial key) input, Computer name setup, user account and password setup, time zone selection; Windows update configuration, location selection, Home group setup etc.

Installation of Windows XP This procedure demonstrates how to install Windows XP Professional. The procedure to install Windows XP home edition is very similar to the professional edition. Since Windows XP Pro is more advanced operating system, it will be used to demonstrate the installation procedure. The best way to install Windows XP is to do a clean install. It is not difficult to perform a clean installation. Before you perform the installation I recommend that you check Windows XP Compatibility List to ensure that your hardware is supported by XP. If your hardware is not on the compatibility list you can check your hardware manufactures website to download the drivers for Windows XP. Save all the necessary drivers onto floppy disks or CD before you start the installation. All versions of Windows XP CD are bootable. In order to boot from CD/DVD-ROM you need to set the boot sequence. Look for the boot sequence under your BIOS setup and make sure that the first boot device is set to CD/DVD-ROM. You can then perform the following steps to install Windows XP: Step 1 - Start your PC and place your Windows XP CD in your CD/DVD-ROM drive. Your PC should automatically detect the CD and you will get a message saying "Press any key to boot from CD". Soon as computer starts booting from the CD your will get the following screen:

Step 2 - At this stage it will ask you to press F6 if you want to install a third party Raid or SCSI driver. If you are using an IDE Hard Drive then you do not need to press F6. If you are using a SCSI or SATA Hard drive then you must press F6 otherwise Windows will not detect your Hard Drive during the installation. Please make sure you have the Raid drivers on a floppy disk. 4

Normally the drivers are supplied on a CD which you can copy to a floppy disk ready to be installed. If you are not sure how to do this then please read your motherboard manuals for more information.

Step 3 - Press S to specify that device.

you want to install additional

Step 4 - You will be asked to insert the floppy disk with the Raid or SCSI drivers. Press enter after you have inserted the disk.

Step 5 - You will see a list of Raid drivers for your HDD. Select the correct driver for your device and press enter.

Step 6 - You will then get a Windows XP Professional Setup screen. You have the option to do a new Windows install, Repair previous install or quit. Since we are doing a new install we just press Enter to continue.

Step 7 - You will be presented with the End User Licensing Agreement. Press F8 to accept and continue

Step 8 - This step is very important. Here we will create the partition where Windows will be installed. If you have a brand new unformatted drive you will get a screen similar to below. In our case the drive size is 8190MB. We can choose to install Windows in this drive without creating a partition, hence use the entire size of the drive. If you wish to do this you can just press enter and Windows will automatically partition and format the drive as one large drive. However for this demonstration I will create two partitions. The first partition will be 6000MB (C: drive) and second partition would be 2180MB (E: drive). By creating two partitions we can have one which stores Windows and Applications and the other which stores our data. So in the future if anything goes wrong with our Windows install such as virus or spyware we can re-install Windows on C: drive and our data on E: drive will not be touched. Please note you can choose whatever size partition you like. For example if you have 500GB hard drive you can have two partitions of 250GB each. Press C to create a partition.

Step 8 - Windows will show the total size of the hard drive and ask you how much you want to allocate for the partition you are about to create. I will choose 6000MB. You will then get the screen below. Notice it shows C: Partition 1 followed by the size 6000 MB. This indicates the partition has been created. We still have unpartitioned space of 2189MB. Next highlight the unpartitioned space by pressing down the arrow key. Then press C to create another partition. You will see the total space available for the new partition. Just choose all the space left over, in our case 2180MB.

Step 9 - Now you will see both partition listed. Partition 1 (C: Drive) 6000MB and Partition 2 (E: Drive) 2180MB. You will also have 8MB of unpartitioned space. Don't worry about that. Just leave it as it is. Windows normally has some unpartitioned space. You might wonder what happened to D: drive. Windows has automatically allocated D: drive to CD/DVD-ROM. Select Partition 1 (C: Drive) and press Enter.

Step 10 - Choose format the partition using NTFS file system. This is the recommended file system. If the hard drive has been formatted before then you can choose quick NTFS format. We chose NTFS because it offers many security features, supports larger drive size, and bigger size files.

Windows will now start formatting drive C: and start copying setup files as shown on the two images below:

Step 11 - After the setup has completed copying the files the computer will restart. Leave the XP CD in the drive but this time DO NOT press any key when the message "Press any key to boot from CD" is displayed. In few seconds setup will continue. Windows XP Setup wizard will guide you through the setup process of gathering information about your computer.

Step 12 - Choose your region and language.

Step 13 - Type in your name and organization.

Step 14. Enter your product key.

Step 15 - Name the computer, and enter an Administrator password. Don't forget to write down your Administrator password.

Step 16 - Enter the correct date, time and choose your time zone.

Step 17 - For the network setting choose typical and press next.

Step 18 - Choose workgroup or domain name. If you are not a member of a domain then leave the default settings and press next. Windows will restart again and adjust the display.

Step 19 - Finally Windows will start and present you with a Welcome screen. Click next to continue.

Step 20 - Choose 'help protect my PC by turning on automatic updates now' and press next.

Step 21 - Will this computer connect to the internet directly, or through a network? If you are connected to a router or LAN then choose: 'Yes, this computer will connect through a local area network or home network'. If you have dial up modem choose: 'No, this computer will connect directly to the internet'. Then click Next.

Step 22 - Ready to activate Windows? Choose yes if you wish to active Windows over the internet now. Choose no if you want to activate Windows at a later stage.

Step 23 - Add users that will sign on to this computer and click next.

Step 24 - You will get a Thank you screen to confirm setup is complete. Click finish.

Step 25. Log in, to your PC for the first time.

Step 26 - You now need to check the device manager to confirm that all the drivers has been loaded or if there are any conflicts. From the start menu select Start -> Settings -> Control Panel. Click on the System icon and then from the System Properties window select the Hardware tab, then click on Device Manager.

If there are any yellow exclamation mark "!" next to any of the listed device, it means that no drivers or incorrect drivers has been loaded for that device. In our case we have a Video Controller (VGA card) which has no drivers installed.

Your hardware should come with manufacturer supplied drivers. You need to install these drivers using the automatic setup program provided by the manufacturer or you need to manually install these drivers. If you do not have the drivers, check the manufacturers website to download them. To install a driver manually use the following procedure: (a) From the device manager double click on the device containing the exclamation mark. (b) This would open a device properties window. (c) Click on the Driver tab. (d) Click Update Driver button. The Wizard for updating device driver pops up as shown below:

You now get two options. The first option provides an automatic search for the required driver. The second option allows you to specify the location of the driver. If you don't know the locations of the driver choose the automatic search which would find the required driver from the manufacturer supplied CD or Floppy disk. Windows would install the required driver and may ask you to restart the system for the changes to take effect. Use this procedure to install drivers for all the devices that contain an exclamation mark. Windows is completely setup when there are no more exclamation marks in the device manager.

Antivirus Installation
Installation of Avast Antivirus First of all, before starting installation uninstall any antivirus that runs on your PC and then download Avast Antivirus. It's always recommended to download and install the latest version. The setup file should be around 300 KB. It doesn't matter what download web site you are going to use since the antivirus files and virus database will be downloaded on your computer from a direct, safe source and the speed will be fast ( depending on your Internet Speed ). I shouldn't add this window but I was thinking to show you the entire installation process. Press "Run" in Windows XP SP 3 fwerf(in Windows Vista or 7 this window will look different ) to open the setup file.

As you can see, the first two pictures werent necessary but I wanted to be as complete as possible. Here is the first window from the setup. Select your language (default language is English) and choose "Next" to start.

You will see a window that will use your Internet Connection in order to download the necessary files. If you are not connected to the Internet you will not be able to download them so make sure that you are connected to the Internet and please wait until the files are being downloaded ( it could take a couple of seconds or minutes or even more depending on your computer performance and your Internet Connection ).

Here it is, if the files were successfully downloaded you should see the following window that says : "Welcome to the avast! Setup program. This program will install avast! on your computer ." and it's also recommended to exit all Windows programs before running this setup program. Click on "Next" button to continue.

Now you will see a "Read Me" window that will display the antivirus version and that will tell you what are the system requirements for a lot of Windows versions so I am going to publish them so that you can read them. At the time that this article was written, Windows 7 was not yet released it is a Release Candidate version and it will be launched in two months but if you meet the system requirements from Windows XP or Vista it should work on Windows 7 too. I just wanted to tell you about this so that I can avoid any confusions. Click on the "Next" button to continue if you are sure that your computer has the necessary resources.

This is the "Licence Agreement" window and you need to read the entire licence to make sure that you agree with all terms listed there. If you agree with this licence agreement choose the radio button called "I agree" and press on the "Next" button.

This window is called "Destination" and you will be needed to enter the path to where this antivirus will install. Actually you do not need to modify the default destination unless you want another place for the installation. As you can see the default installation folder will be in "C:\Program Files\Alwil Software\Avast4" except the latest part called "Avast4" since your version could be newer than mine and it could change his name in " Avast5", "Avast6", "Avast7" etc. If you are ready click on the "Next" button.

As you can see we are now at a window called "Configuration". This is the window that will allow us to make a "Typical" installation, a "Minimal" and a "Custom" installation so I am going to choose "Typical". If you need to change anything else ( this is for advanced users ) you need to choose "Custom". As I said I am going to choose " Typical" and click on the "Next" button to continue.

Now we have another confirmation window for the previous one. It's called " Installation information" and says that the setup will install the following components:

If everything is OK, choose the "Next" button. If you need to change something press the "Back" button and go back and change anything you want but you will need to choose "Custom" type.

Please be patient as the antivirus will install the necessary files on your computer. When it will finish it will appear a small window that will ask you : " Do you wish to schedule a boot-time antivirus scan of your local hard drives? The scan will be performed after your computer is restarted." I suggest you to choose "Yes" if you have some time for a scan of your hard drives. If you're in a hurry and you are sure that your computer is clean you can choose " No". As you can see I chose "Yes".

Finally we can see a message in this window that says " Setup finished" and we are almost ready but wait, we need to restart the computer. I would recommend you to choose " Restart" and make sure to save your work since your computer will restart right away. Click on "Finish" button.

If you chosed in the previous window to schedule a boot-time antivirus scan of your local hard drives when your PC will start you will see a blue window ( it will look different on Windows XP, Vista or 7 ) like the one in the following picture. I would suggest you to have patience and let him to scan all of your hard drives. At the end it will display the report.

Supposing that the scan has finished when your desktop will start you should see a notification window that tells you more things about Avast Antivirus. And there are two links, the first one will take you to the registration page and the second one will give you more information about the professional edition. Since this article is focused only on the installation I will skip the registration process for now ( in maximum 60 days you will need to register this antivirus ) and I will click on "OK" button to close this window.

For the first time, a small blue icon will appear on our launch bar and says something like that: "avast!Resident Protection" - The blue avast! icon in the notification are of your desktop is used to report the status of avast! resident protection. When crossed-out, the protection is inactive. When gray, it is waiting for something. And finally when blue, you are protected. " It will appear a second informative icon and it will close by itself but you can also close them manually.

Avast Antivirus Free has been installed on your computer but I wanted to show you two more things. How to access the "control center" called "On-Access Protection Control" and how to "Start avast! Antivirus". Let's access the "On-Access Protection Control", to do so do a rightclick with your mouse on the blue, avast icon located on the right side of your launch bar and a small window will open. From there as I said choose the first option called " On-Access Protection Control".

A new window will open called "Resident Protection". From here you can adjust the level of your protection from "Normal" to "High", it also allows you to "Pause" the resident protection and also to "Terminate". Down this window is a small button called "Details..." if you will click on this button this window will become larger and it will show you more options to choose from.

Let's repeat the same action: do a right-click with your mouse on the blue, avast icon located on the right side of your launch bar and a small window will open. From there choose the second option called "Start avast! Antivirus" like in the following picture:

PART 3

TROUBLESHOOTING
Software Problem
Computer turns off without warning. This issue could be caused by any of the below possibilities. 1. Heat related issue. 2. Hardware issue or error. 3. Computer virus. 4. Issue with operating system. 5. Other failing hardware This Solution is for computers that turns off without warning and remains off, and not computers that turn back on (restart). Heat related issue A computer that turns off without warning is often a heat related issue. Many computers today are designed to turn off or automatically reboot if the computer, processor, or other device in your computer gets too hot. If you have heard any abnormal noises coming from your computer recently such as a high squealing, this could indicate a fan may be failing in your computer. You can first start by verifying the fan on the power supply is working by examining the back of the computer and seeing if the fan is moving and moving smoothly. For all other fans in the computer, you will need to either open the computer and make sure the fan are working (processor fan and case fans) and if your BIOS monitors the RPM of the fans, enter BIOS and make sure the BIOS does not report any errors.

While inside the computer it's also a good idea to verify the processor heatsink is properly connected by disconnecting and reconnecting the heat sink. If the processor heat sink is not properly attached to the processor, the computer processor will overheat. Hardware issue or error Any failing hardware component in your computer could cause your computer to unexpectedly turn off without warning. If you have recently attempted to add a new hardware device, remove that device to make sure it is not causing your issues. Before attempting to remove any hardware, make sure you are not encountering this issue because of hardware conflicts by checking Device Manager for errors. If you have not recently installed any new hardware into the computer, the next best solution to determining if this is a hardware issue would be remove any hardware on the computer that is not needed. For example, remove your modem, network card, sound card, and any other expansion cards that are not needed for the computer to operate. Run the computer without these cards to see if they are the cause of your issue. Computer virus It's possible for your computer to be infected with a virus that is designed to shut down your computer or turn it off. If your computer seems to be turning off when executing a certain program at specific times in the day, it could be infected. If you believe your computer may be infected with a virus or are uncertain if your computer is infected with a virus, make sure your virus scanner definitions are up-to-date. Issue with operating system If after following each of the above recommendations your computer still continues to reboot, it is likely that you are experiencing a Microsoft Windows operating system related issue that cannot be explained. To help make sure this is the case, try the below steps.

i) ii)

Reboot the computer and enter CMOS setup as the computer is booting. After you have loaded the computer in CMOS setup, let the computer sit.

If the computer does not turn off while letting the computer sit in CMOS, it is likely that you are in fact experiencing an issue with Microsoft Windows or your operating system and it is recommend that if you have followed all of the above recommendations that you erase everything and reinstall Microsoft Windows. Other failing hardware If after reinstalling your operating system, or during the installation of your operating system, your computer turns off abnormally, it is very likely that other hardware is failing in the computer. Often this is RAM, CPU, Motherboard, and Power Supply (in that order). If you have extra available parts or have a friend or co-worker with a similar configuration that is willing to allow you to test their hardware in your computer, try swapping these parts to determine if they are at fault. Otherwise, you will need to have the computer serviced.

Computer boots up slowly. A slow Microsoft Windows boot up can be caused by a wide variety of issues. Below are various possible causes that can help improve the overall speed of your computers startup. In addition to the below steps, if you use your computer frequently you may also consider either not turning off the computer or having your computer go into a hibernation mode when pressing the power button. Disable startup programs Programs that are loading up, as the computer starts up to remain active in memory, are often one of the main causes of a slow boot in Windows. Disabling programs you don't often use from automatically starting up each time the computer boots can increase the boot time.

A program that makes managing your Windows startup programs easily is System configuration utility in administrative tool in Control Panel. Using this program, you can disable any program in any of the locations programs use to start themselves automatically.

Scandisk / Defrag Running Microsoft Scandisk and Defrag or similar disk utilities on the computer can help verify the hard disk drive has no errors, as well as make sure the data on the hard disk drive is organized in the most efficient method. We suggest running both of these utilities at least once every few months. Hard disk drive space If your computer does not have at least 250MB of free available hard disk drive space this can cause an overall slowdown with your computer as well as decrease the boot time. Make sure your computer hard disk drive has 250MB or more of available disk space. Add memory Adding additional memory (RAM) to the computer will help increase the overall speed of the computer and in some cases can also increase the load times of your computer. Today, 4

we suggest all computers be running a minimum of 1GB of memory in their computer. If your computer is running less than this it may be time to upgrade. Update drivers and Windows Corrupt, incorrect, or out-of-date drivers can cause a number of different issues. Make sure your computer has the latest drivers as well as any available Microsoft Windows updates. Registry cleaner Although we don't often recommend registry cleaners in some rare situations running cleaners can help improve the overall performance of Windows including the Windows startup. If you've run through all of the above recommendations you may want to clean your system registry.

Format and reinstall If after following all the above steps your computer still seems to be slow you may want to erase everything from the computer and re-install Windows. This will clean your computer and make it like new.

Hardware Problems

Printer Troubleshooting.
Printer does not have power indicator First, make sure that the printer is on. When a printer is on it should have some light (usually green) indicating it's receiving power and is on. If you do not have any indicator light make sure the printer is connected to a working power outlet by verifying each end of the power cable. Next, press the printer power button. If after following the above steps your printer still cannot get a power status indicator it's likely you're encountering a serious printer issue and we suggest contacting the printer manufacturer for additional steps and instructions on repair or replacement. Cables not connected properly The printer should have two cables connected to it. The power cable and the data cable, the power cable should have already been verified as being connected if your printer has a power indicator light as mentioned above. Make sure the data cable (parallel cable or USB cable) is also connected from the printer to the computer. Printer error (orange or blinking light) After the printer has completed its initial startup you should have a solid green light. If the light indicator is blinking or orange often this is an indication of a printer error. For example, this could indicate a paper jam, issue with the ink or toner cartridge, or other serious error. Because there is no standard to what a blinking light or orange light means if you're getting either of these I suggest referring to the printer documentation for troubleshooting steps or methods of determining what the status indicator is reporting.

No paper or paper jam Without paper the printer will not be able to print. Make sure you have paper in the paper loaded into the printer paper cartridge or tray. Next, verify that no printer paper is jammed or partially fed into the printer. If you have one or more pieces of paper stuck in the printer these will need to be manually removed before the printer will print again. Printer self tests Most printers have a way of printing a test page. This page allows you to determine if the printer is physically working or not. This test is usually accomplished by holding down a series of keys. If you are not sure if your printer has this feature or how to perform it refers to your manual or visits your printer manufacturers web site. In addition to testing the printer using the printer self-test Microsoft Windows users can also perform software self-test to determine if their computer is able to see the printer and it's able to print. Follow the below steps to perform this test. Microsoft Windows 98, 2000, ME, XP, 2003, and Vista users 1. Click Start, Settings, and open Control Panel. 2. Double-click the Printers or Printers and Fax icon. 3. Right-click on the Printer you wish to test and click Properties. If you do not see your printer listed your printer is not installed. 4. In the Printers Properties window click the Print Test Page button. 5. If the printer is able to print a test page, you're printer is installed and setup properly. However, if you're unable to print in other programs it's possible that the program you're attempting to print from has issues.

Printer drivers If your printer does not have any flashing lights and is connected properly it's possible you may be encountering a driver related issue. So you have to visit printer driver listing, from several web sites; e.g. http://www.computerhope.com/drivers/printers.htm links to all major printer manufacturer driver pages and downloading the latest printer drivers for your printer. Parallel (LPT) printers If the printer you're connecting to the computer is an LPT (parallel port) printer we also suggest verifying the below suggestions if your printer is not working. Parallel port in CMOS 1. Enter the computers CMOS setup. 2. Once in CMOS verify that your parallel port is enabled or installed. 3. Next, verify the printer or parallel port mode. This option will often have several different modes. If your parallel port is set to ECP mode, we suggest trying a different mode. Other parallel device If you have a parallel printer with other parallel devices such as a parallel scanner or zip drive, temporarily you have to disconnect these devices to verify that they are not causing the problem.

Scanner Troubleshooting.
It may be necessary to do general scanner troubleshooting to help determine the cause or to help resolve a scanner related issue. Verify cables connected properly to the back of the scanner If the scanner is a parallel port scanner it is likely it has two available connections on the back of the scanner. Verify that the cable coming from the computer is connecting to the IN, Computer IN, computer, or similar connection. Ensure that the scanner is getting power If your scanner is not getting power it is recommended that you check the connections ensuring that they are connected properly to the back of the computer and from the scanner to the wall. If you have the scanner connected to a power strip or surge protector it is temporarily recommended that you connect the scanner directly to the wall. If the computer scanner is getting power, you should notice the inside light come on when the power is first received by the scanner. After checking the connections you still get no power to the scanner, it is recommended you contact the manufacturer of the scanner. Additional parallel port scanner troubleshooting If you have another device connected in between the scanner and the computer, turn off the computer and temporally disconnect the devices connected to or from the scanner. If, after disconnecting these devices, the scanner works, it is likely that another device may have issues or may be unable to work with other parallel devices.

PART 4 COMPUTER PERIPHERALS INSTALLATION AND CONFIGURATION Printer Installation (HP LaserJet P4515)
The HP LaserJet P4515 series consists of three industrial black-and-white printer models. P4515 printers are both effective and user-friendly, and designed to handle monthly print volumes of up to 20,000 pages. The P4515 series printers also have a print speed of up to 62 pages per minute and a powerful 540 MHz processor. To install the printer's system software, you must use the HP installation CD. A USB drive is also required for installation, as it serves as a connection port to establish network communication between the printer and computer. Requirements

HP LaserJet P4515 installation disc USB cable

Procedure 1 Insert the P4515's installation CD into the computer's CD-ROM tray. When the computer runs the HP installation CD, the installation wizard will prompt and open in a pop-up window. 2 3 Select the "Install Printer" action on the welcome screen. Click the radio button for the "Add HP LaserJet P4515 Software to Your System" action. Click "Next" at the bottom of the installation wizard window. The following window will present the wizard prompts to complete the installation. 4 Connect the printer and computer with the USB cable. Once the hardware is detected, a notification will appear in the installation wizard window. 5 Click "Next" to begin copying all of the printer's software drivers and files to your computer's system.

Printer Sharing in Window XP


The Follow is the step-by-step instructions to share printer in Windows XP. 1) Go to Start and click Control Panel. Control Panel Window will appear, then double click Printers and faxes. 2) Printers and Faxes window will appear. Right click the printer you want to share, then click Sharing

Here the File and Printer Sharing for Microsoft Networks on network card's properties should be enabled.

3) Select Sharing tab and tick Share this printer to share the printer. You can type in a new name in the Share name text box to change your printer name on the network; however this will not change the printer name on your computer. Click Apply. y

Note: If the other users using different version of Windows to access your printer, they will need to install printer driver themselves. You can help by installing additional printer drivers on your Windows XP, so that the printer driver will be installed when other users access the shared printer with different version of Windows. Click Additional Drivers, tick additional driver you would like to install. You will be prompted to install those additional drivers after clicking OK.

4) Once you have shared the printer, you will see there is a hand supporting your printer.

Scanner Installation
Procedure Requirements Scanner

The USB cord that came with your scanner The power cord that came with your scanner Any software that came with your scanner Computer with compatible system requirements

A common USB cord used with scanners and other computer accessories. *NOTE* your scanner may
have come with a cord with identical ends, this is also fairly common.

Plug In the Cords Turn your computer off before beginning. Some computers need to restart to recognize new hardware, so plugging your new scanner in while the computer is turned off should allow it to immediately identify the new hardware upon start up. Plug the USB cord (see accompanying image) into one of the corresponding USB ports on your computer. For many desktop computers it is recommended that you use one of the ports found on the back of the tower. The USB ports are the thin rectangular ports found often near the base of the tower. Match up the other end of the cord to a port on your scanner (there is usually just one that will fit.) and plug it in. This port should be at the back of or on one side of your scanner. Plug the power cord into your scanner (usually a small and round port on the scanner) then the other end into the wall. Now you have your scanner plugged in. And you are ready for the actual installation. 4

Turn on your computer and wait for it to fully start up and load all of its normal applications.

This is just an example of an install wizard. 3 From here there will be different steps for different scanners and computers. Choose the situation appropriate for you and follow the instructions for that one only. 4 A "Wizard" pops up on the screen automatically prompting you to install your new hardware. This means your scanner has internal software and there is no need to look for a disk to use your product. Follow the onscreen instructions (read and click the "next" button) until the "wizard" informs you that your installation was completed successfully and you are prompted to click "finish". This will have installed your scanner to your computer and probably have put an icon on your desk top that links to the programs that can be used with your scanner. You should be able to use your scanner now! 5 You have a disk that came with your scanner and a CD drive. This means you need to use this disk to install the scanner. Insert the disk into your CD drive by pressing the eject button on the tower and placing your disk into the tray. After closing the tray the computer should automatically run the disk. After a short title screen it should show some options like "Install Software" , "About Us", "Tutorial", etc. These options will be different for each product. Click on the option that says "Install". 4

Clicking the install option should bring up an installation wizard that you will be able to read, click "next" and finally "finish" when you are done. After this is completed you can use your scanner!

Now that you have found the appropriate driver for your scanner you are ready to download it.Choosing the correct model of your scanner from the manufacturer's website should bring you to a page where you will find the option to "download the latest driver". Most manufactures will have you choose your operating system at this point.

A button should show up now that says "download now" or "download" or something similar. Along with this should be a few simple instructions on how to install the downloaded file. Click the "download" button, fill out any question blanks (they will usually ask for your email), and be sure to click "accept" to accept the license agreement for the software.Your download should begin automatically. If a screen pops up and gives you the options to "open with" or "run" AND "save", select "save" and wait for the download to complete.

The install file should now be on your desktop (or wherever you selected it to be saved to). This file will usually have the brand of scanner's name in the label and end with an .exe. *Note the file types may vary with the manufacturer. Double click on this file and wait for the "install wizard" to open. Follow the instructions provided by the wizard to install your program. When you are done, there will be an icon on your desktop that holds to programs that run your scanner. You can now use your scanner!

PART 5 DESKTOP PC ASSEMBLING


Tools and equipment Here you wont need many tools to assemble computer, in fact the only one you must have is the screwdriver, but if you can get most of the following together, youll find things go a little easier. Basic tools Before you begin building or refitting a computer, you should have some basic tools:

1. #2 Phillips-head (cross-shaped) screwdriver 2. Needle-nose pliers 3. Anti-static Wrist Strap 4. A large level working space

Combination flanged-hex/Phillips-head screw used in computers

Optional, but useful tools Some other tools and equipment can come in handy as well, such as: 1. Spring action parts grabber. 2. Electrical tape 3. Wire or nylon ties 4. Flashlight, preferably hands-free 5. A second, working computer to swap parts, look for tips, ask for help on-line, download drivers and patches, etc. - very useful 6. A can of compressed air - useful when working with older parts that have collected dust. A better alternative but also more costly, is a vacuum cleaner designed for cleaning electronics. 4

An anti-static wrist strap with crocodile clip

Preparation Proper preparation is the key to a successful build. Before you begin, make sure you have all the tools you will need, secure a clear, well-lit workspace, gather all the components youll be using and unpack them one at a time, verifying that everything that is supposed to be there is actually present. At this point you should leave the parts themselves in their protective anti-static bags, and assemble all the accompanying manuals. Now I know you want to get started, but trust me, read the manuals, check the diagrams, make sure you understand where each part goes and how it attaches. If there is anything you dont understand, now is the time to do a little extra Internet research or call the manufacturer with your questions. Find a dry, well-ventilated place to do your work. You should have plenty of light and if possible, you should choose an area without carpet on the floor, as carpet tends to generate a lot of static. An unfurnished basement is a good work location Safety precautions 1. Static electricity is the biggest danger to the expensive parts of computer your are about to assemble, even a tiny shock, much too small for you to feel, can damage or ruin the delicate electronic traces, many times smaller than a human hair, that make up your CPU, RAM and other chips. Its important to use your anti-static wrist strap to prevent damage to these components. Once you have the power supply installed in the case, clip the end of the wrist strap to the outside of the power supply. (Never plug your computer in while you are connected to it by a wrist strap.) This will ensure that you, the case and the power supply are all connected to a common ground, in other words there will be no inequality of charge that will allow a spark to jump from you to the case. Its also helpful to have an anti-static mat to set the case and other components on. 2. Nobody but you is at fault if you shock your components with static electricity. Make sure that you take the precautions in the previous paragraph to ground yourself from static 4

electricity. (Note: if you really must work on a computer and have not got proper anti-static equipment, it is usually OK if you make sure that you do not move about much; are not wearing any static-prone clothing; handle components by the edges; and regularly (once a minute or so), touch a grounded object.). The case metal of your PC's power supply will usually be a suitable grounded object. As noted above, touch it every few minutes while you are working on your PC if you havent got a wrist strap. 3. Turn off your computer and switch off your Power Supply at the wall before installing or removing any components - if power is flowing to components as they are installed or removed, they can be seriously damaged. In order to have a computer properly grounded, you need it plugged in at the wall but turned off at the power supply and at the wall. The neutral line may be earthed 4. Never cut the grounding pin off your power cord. This "safety ground" stands between you and potentially lethal voltages inside the power supply.

5. Be wary of sharp edges! Many lower-end PC cases have sharp, unfinished edges. This is especially so on interior surfaces, and where the case has been cut or punched-out. Use care and take your time to avoid cutting your hands. If your case has this problem, a little time with some sandpaper before you begin construction can spare you a lot of pain. 6. Dismantling discrete electronic components such as your Power Supply or Monitor is dangerous. They contain high voltage capacitors, which can cause a severe electric shock if you touch them. These hold a charge even when the unit is not plugged in and are capable of delivering a fatal shock. Construction Start by putting your case down on your work surface, with the case door facing up, and open the case

Motherboard

Find the motherboard standoffs (spacers) that should have come with the case. They are screws, usually brass, with large hexagonal heads that are tapped so you can fasten screws into the top. These hold the motherboard up off the case preventing a short-circuit. Set these aside. Remove the I/O Shield from the back of the case where the ports on the back of the motherboard will fit, and put in the I/O Shield that came with your motherboard. There may be small metal tabs on the inside of this face plate, if so you may have to adjust them to accommodate the ports on the back of the motherboard.

I/O Panel Shield of an ATX Motherboard Some case styles make it difficult to install the motherboard or the CPU with the power supply installed. If the power supply is in your way, take it out and set it aside (we'll put it back in later). Now locate the screw holes on your motherboard and find the corresponding holes on the motherboard plate (or tray) in the case. Put a standoff in each of these holes on the tray and position the motherboard so that you can see the holes in the top of the standoffs through the screw holes in the motherboard. Now is the time to make sure the ports on the motherboard are mating with the backplate you just installed, and make any necessary adjustments. The small metal tabs are intended to make contact with the metal parts of the connections on the back of the motherboard and ground them, but you may have to bend these tabs a bit to get the ports all properly mounted, this is where those needlenose pliers may come in handy. If you have trouble lining up the screw holes, double check that you have the standoffs in the proper holes on the tray. With lower quality cases there are sometimes alignment problems and 4

you may have to forgo one or two screws. If this is the case, make sure you remove the corresponding standoffs. Some combinations of motherboards and cases may also use different types of screws in different places or provide non-matching screw holes that cannot be used in a specific case. The motherboard can possibly be damaged if you try to push it into position with the wrong set of standoffs underneath or when trying to use the wrong set of screw holes. Now fasten a screw through each of the motherboard screw holes into the standoffs underneath. These screws should be snug but not tight, there is no reason to torque down on them, hand tight is fine, and otherwise you can damage the motherboard. Once the motherboard is installed, it is time to plug the other components. CPU Installing the CPU, and the CPUs heat-sink and fan, are by far the most difficult steps youll have to complete during your build. Here, more than anywhere else, it will pay to read the instructions carefully, look at the parts, study the diagrams that came with your CPU and/or third party cooling solution, and make sure you thoroughly understand what you are going to do before you try to do it. During the process, if anything does not seem to fit or make sense, put the parts down and look things over carefully before you proceed. Some operations, especially installing the heat-sink/fan combination, can require pretty firm pressure, so dont be afraid to push a little harder if youre sure everything is set up correctly.

An example of a CPU socket, Socket A

The details of the installation process differ in slight but important ways for each manufacturers processors, and even within a manufacturers product line. Therefore, for these details, you should rely on the instructions that are provided with the CPU. The two things that go wrong the most often and most expensively (minimum of a killed CPU, sometimes more) in building one's own computer are both related to the CPU and its cooler: 1. Switching the computer on "just to see if it works" before adding any CPU cooling unit. Without cooling, CPUs heat up at extreme rates (a CPU heats up anywhere between ten times and a thousand times as fast as a cooking area on your stove!) By the time you see the first display on the screen; your CPU will already be severely overheating and might be damaged beyond repair. 2. Mounting the CPU cooler improperly. Read the instructions that came with your CPU and cooler very carefully and ensure you are using all components in the correct order and correct place. If you buy a third party cooling solution for your CPU make sure you get one that is compatible with the CPU you have. Most brands come with multiple mounting brackets that will suit many different chipsets, but it is best to check for compatibility just in case. If using thermal paste, apply it only to the CPU die (the square piece of silicon in the middle of the CPU) and do so sparingly -- most modern CPUs take no more than a dab of thermal paste the size of a grain of rice. Some people do like to wipe some onto the heat-sink's surface and then wipe it smoothly off so that bits of it may get into tiny holes for better heat transfer. If using a thermal pad supplied with your cooler, make sure you remove any protective tape from the die just before installing and do not get it dirty - and do not combine thermal pads with thermal paste, it is either one or the other. Then, check that you install the cooler in the right orientation and that you set it flat on the CPU die without exerting undue pressure on any edges or corners the latter can make small pieces of the die break off, killing the CPU. One option you may consider, before installing the heat-sink, is to "lap" the heat-sink, which means to smooth out the bottom surface. To do this, you will need a very flat surface; a piece of 4

thick window glass will work. Fasten your sandpaper on the flat surface, invert the heat-sink on the sandpaper and sand in small circles, applying minimum pressure. Check frequently and when you see a uniform pattern of scratches, switch to finer grained sandpaper (the numbers go up as the sandpaper is finer, so something such as 220 is coarse while 2000 will be very fine.) Remember that you are not trying to remove any material, just polish out surface irregularities. If you get it right, you should have a surface which feels completely smooth to the touch (but dont touch it, the oil in your fingers can cause corrosion of the fresh surface) with a mirror finish. Some companies producing heat-sinks lap the surface themselves, so if the surface already looks like a perfect mirror, leave it alone. A lapped heat-sink is more effective as it will have better surface contact with the chip. Tighten the cooler using only the specified holding devices - if you did everything right, they will fit. If they do not fit, check your setup - most likely something is wrong. After mounting the cooler, connect any power cables for the fan that is attached to the cooler. Memory Slots Next, you will need to install your RAM (random access memory). Find the RAM slots on your motherboard; they will look something like the picture on your left. To install the RAM modules, first push on the levers (white plastic in the picture) on either side of the DIMM socket, so that they move to the sides. Do not force them, they should move fairly easily. Put the RAM module in the socket. Line up the notch in the center of the module with the small bump in the center of the RAM socket, making sure to insert it the right way. Push down on the module until both levers move up into the notches on the sides of the module. There should be a small "snap" when the module is fully seated. Although this does require a fair bit of force, do not over do it or you may break the RAM module

RAM module in a socket

Take a good look at your seated RAM, if one side seems to be higher than the other, odds are it is improperly seated - take it out and try again. As you handle the RAM, try not to touch the copper stripes you can see along the bottom edge, as doing so is the best way to damage the part. Start adding RAM at the slot labeled "Bank 0" or "DIMM 1". If you do not have a stick in "Bank 0" or "DIMM 1" the system will think there is no RAM and will not boot. On newer motherboards with 4 slots, you'll see alternating colors. For example, slot 1 is blue, slot 2 is black, slot 3 is blue, and slot 4 is black. If you were to put 1 gigabyte of RAM in your PC, it is best to use dual channel 512MBx2 sticks. Put the first 512MB stick in slot 1, and put the 2nd stick in slot 3 (the two slots that are blue) leaving slot 2 empty. This will give you better performance, vs. putting 1GB in slot 1, or two 512MB sticks in slot 1 and 2.

Different types of RAM modules

Video card Insert the card into a matching slot on the motherboard. If your motherboard has a built-in video adapter you want to use, skip this section. If you have an AGP video card: Install the video card into the AGP socket. This is always the top expansion slot near the back of the computer. AGP slots are often brown, but can also be strange colors such as fluorescent green. Check the motherboard for levers (or similar devices) that are part of the AGP slot to help hold the card in place. These must be retracted before insertion of the card. Check the motherboard's manual for information on how to use these devices (if your motherboard has one.) Push the card into the socket (AGP slots are often pretty tight, do not be afraid to push it until it is well inserted), then screw it in at the top of the metal bracket. If it has a power connector, connect it to a 4-pin Molex connector. If it has a pass through, do not connect it to a hard drive. If you have a PCI Express video card, install it the same way as an AGP video card, however the slot where it goes looks a little different having an extra spot on the slot as opposed to the 2 slot parts on an AGP slot. PCI Express slots used for video cards are commonly 16x as opposed to AGP 8x. When your card is properly installed the line formed by the top of the card will be exactly parallel to the motherboard, if one side seems to be higher than the other, chances are that it is not fully inserted, press a little harder on the high side or pull it out and try again. Installing drive jumpers The drive jumpers are in the middle (between the connector for the cable and the power connector) but the location may vary.

The drive jumpers are in the middle (between the connector for the cable and the power connector) but the location may vary. If you are using SATA drives there is no need to adjust jumpers -- you can skip this section. If you are using SATA drives there is no need to adjust jumpers -- you can skip this section. Before you install IDE/ATA (PATA) drives, you will need to set the drives jumpers. Each IDE/ATA channel can handle two drives, a master and a slave. Consult your drive's instructions on how to set the jumpers. The jumper configurations are usually either printed on the back, or on the top of the drive. Drives can be configured in 2 ways: Drive Select or Cable Select.

A jumper

"Cable select": Use this if you have 80-pin cables. Cable select automatically assigns slave/master based on the plug on the IDE cable the drive is plugged into. Put the jumper on CS.

"Drive select": If you are using a 40 pin cable, you must use "drive select". Master/slave status is determined by the jumper. In this mode, configure the drive on the end connector as the master, and the drive connected to the middle connector as the slave. If the IDE channel has only one drive, check your motherboard documentation for the appropriate setting, which is usually master. 4

Note that Drive Select will always work, while Cable Select will only work if you have the proper cable. Installing drives Next install the hard drive and optical drives. How a drive is physically installed will depend on the case. A Serial ATA connector Most new drives are SATA (Serial ATA) which use simple, small cables for a data connection. The ends of the cables are L shaped, just look carefully at the cable ends and the connector on the drive and match them up. Only one drive can be connected to each SATA port on the motherboard. Some SATA drives have two different power ports - make sure you connect ONLY ONE of these ports to the power supply, connecting both can damage the drive.

A Serial ATA connector

Older drives have PATA (Parallel ATA) connections which use a flat ribbon (IDE) cable for data connection. When using an IDE cable, plug the two connectors that are closer together into the 2 drives and the third to the controller or motherboard. The connector furthest from the board should 4

be attached to the drive set as Master. Make sure the drive that you will install your OS on is the primary master. This is the master drive on the Primary IDE bus which is usually the IDE 40 pin port on the motherboard labeled Primary or IDE 1... Note: IDE connectors are keyed, so it should be impossible to insert them backwards. However, it does not require very much force to do this and it can destroy your motherboard. Look carefully at the drive and the cable connection before you try to connect them. You should see a "missing" pin on the drive, and a corresponding blocked socket on the connector. If you break a pin on the drive, you will probably have a worthless drive. Note: Most parallel IDE cables have a colored stripe down one side. That colored stripe signifies "pin 1" - and usually will line up next to the Molex power connection on your drive. Use this rule of thumb if your connectors are not keyed. Next, plug a 4 pin Molex power connector into each hard drive and optical drive. If you are installing the power connector to a SATA drive, some drives have the option of using either the SATA power connector (a flat about 1" wide connector) or the standard Molex connector; use one or the other, not both. Connecting both can break your hard drive. For better data transfer, you can purchase heat-protected high-end data cables at your nearest electronics store. If you install a floppy disk drive, the cable is very similar to the IDE cable, but with fewer wires, and a strange little twist in the middle. Floppy drives do not have master/slave configurations. The floppy disk connector is not usually keyed, making it all too easy to plug it in the wrong way! One wire in the IDE cable will be colored differently: this is pin 1. There is usually some indication on the floppy drive as to which side this is. The power plug for a floppy is 4 pins in a line, but rather smaller than the standard hard drives power connector. Plug the end of the cable with the twist into the floppy drive ("drive A:"). Plug the other end of the floppy ribbon cable into the motherboard. If you install a second floppy drives, plug the middle connector into "drive B:". The twist between drive A: (on the end) and drive B (in the middle) helps the computer distinguish between them.[1]

Floppy Disk Drive Cable

Note: IDE connectors are keyed, so it should be impossible to insert them backwards. However, it does not require very much force to do this and it can destroy your motherboard. Look carefully at the drive and the cable connection before you try to connect them. You should see a "missing" pin on the drive, and a corresponding blocked socket on the connector. If you break a pin on the drive, you will probably have a worthless drive. Note: Most parallel IDE cables have a colored stripe down one side. That colored stripe signifies "pin 1" - and usually will line up next to the Molex power connection on your drive. Use this rule of thumb if your connectors are not keyed.

Other connections Some cables are attached to pins on a board (e.g. motherboard or extension card) In order to turn the computer on, you will need to connect the power button and while you are at it, you might as well do the reset buttons and front panel lights as well. There will be a set of pins, usually near the front edge of the motherboard to which you will attach the cables sometimes already connected to the front of the case, or if needed supplied with the motherboard. Most of the time the plugs will be labeled as the pins they will connect to in the motherboard, there they can be difficult to read since the print is very small or you may not be in the right orientation to do so. The documentation that came with your case and motherboard should tell where these connectors are.

Some cables are attached to pins on a board (e.g. motherboard or extension card) In addition, you can connect any case-specific ports if they are supported by the motherboard. Many cases have front mounted USB, Firewire and/or sound ports. Other connections of this type to remember can be power for the CPU fans, various temperature sensors and Wake-on-LAN cables (if the feature is supported) from the network card to the motherboard.

Prepare for power up Some people will put power to a system several times during assembly and for experienced builders this may serve some purpose. For first timers though, its best to assemble a minimal complete system before powering up. Minimal because that way there are comparatively few potential sources of trouble, complete so that you can test everything at once and because the fewer times you have to put power to an open machine, the better.. If youve been working along with us you should now have such a minimal system put together. Briefly this includes a case with a motherboard in it, a processor (and its cooling unit) and some RAM plugged into the motherboard, hard and floppy drives installed, and some kind of video available. If your motherboard has built-in video, you might want to use that for this first try, even if you are going to install a video card later. For this test, youll want to have the computer open, so that you can see all of the fans, and youll need to connect a monitor and a keyboard and a mouse (OK, you dont really need the mouse . . .)

Comparison of VGA and DVI Monitors will either have a VGA or a newer DVI plug (see picture, as they are a lot less apparent than PS/2 / USB by comparison). Most monitors use VGA connectors, and so most graphics cards 4

have VGA output. If you have one type of plug and the graphics card has another, you can easily buy an adapter. Some cards even come with one. There are two standard connectors for mice and keyboards; PS/2 connectors and the more modern USB connectors. Plug the mouse and keyboard in the appropriate slot. Note: If you intend to install an operating system from a boot CD or floppy, or modify BIOS settings you will need to use either a PS/2 keyboard or USB to PS/2 converter, or a motherboard that supports USB devices. Otherwise your keyboard will not work until the operating system has loaded USB drivers. Once you have this all set up, its time to double check, then triple check that you have made all the necessary connections and that you havent left any foreign objects (wheres that screwdriver?) in the case. Power up The moment of truth now approaches, time to take a deep breath, exhale slowly, then take a moment to check one more time that everything is as it should be. Make sure you've removed your wrist strap, turn on the monitor, then press the power button, and observe the inside of the open machine. (Do not touch any part of the inside of the machine while it is powered up you will NOT die but your computer might.) The first thing to look for is that the CPU cooler fan spins up, if it does not, cut the power immediately. This fan should start up right away; something is wrong if it doesnt and your CPU is in danger of overheating so stop now and troubleshoot. NOTE: If you have a Gigabyte brand motherboard, the CPU fan may twitch and stop turning. Wait 10-15 seconds and it should start. If it does not, there is a problem and you should immediately cut power as stated above. Other fans such as case fans should turn on and spin. If the CPU fan spins up, check that all the other fans that should be spinning case fans and fans on the power supply and video card (if installed) are also spinning. Some of these fans may not spin up until a temperature threshold is passed, check your documentation if anything is not spinning.

If the fans spin, you can turn your attention to the monitor, what you are hoping to see is the motherboards splash-screen, usually featuring the manufacturers logo. If you see this, take a moment to bask in the glow, youve built a computer! If this happy event does not occur, if smoke appears, or if the computer does not do anything, unplug the power cord immediately and check the steps above to make sure you have not missed anything. Give special attention to the cables and power connections. If the computer does appear to come on, but, you hear beeps, listen carefully to the beeps, turn the computer off, and refer to your motherboard's manual for the meaning of the beeps. Some boards have an optional diagnostic device; usually a collection of LEDs, which when properly plugged in will inform you of the nature of the problem. Instructions for installing this as well as the meaning of its display should be in the manual for the motherboard. If the computer turns on but the only thing that comes on is your power supply, turn it off. This probably means something is shorted, and leaving it on could damage the parts. If all is well it is time to turn the computer off, and close it up. Then you may want to turn it on again and set certain options in the Computer's BIOS (usually by pressing 'F1' or 'Del' a few seconds after boot.) These options will be explained in the motherboard manual. In general, the default options are OK, but you may wish to set the computer's hardware clock to the correct time and date. The BIOS is also where you determine the default boot order of the system, typically Floppy, then CD-ROM, then Hard Disc. If you want a further quick test, before you install an operating system, you may find a bootable CD-ROM such as Knoppix extremely useful. Additional hardware and peripherals Now that you have a working system its time to think about installing an operating system, which is covered in the next section. Its best to leave the installation of additional components (like sound-cards, modems, and second video cards) and peripherals (printers, joysticks, nerf missile launchers et. al.) until after the OS install in order to allow the plug n play features of the OS to do their trick.

PART 6 NETWORKING
UTP CABLE COLOR-CODE STANDARDS Again, please bear with me... Let's start with simple pin-out diagrams of the two types of UTP Ethernet cables and watch how committees can make a can of worms out of them. Here are the diagrams:

Note that the TX (transmitter) pins are connected to corresponding RX (receiver) pins, plus to plus and minus to minus. And that you must use a crossover cable to connect units with identical interfaces. If you use a straight-through cable, one of the two units must, in effect, perform the cross-over function. Two wire color-code standards apply: EIA/TIA 568A and EIA/TIA 568B. The codes are commonly depicted with RJ-45 jacks as follows (the view is from the front of the jacks):

If we apply the 568A color code and show all eight wires, our pin-out looks like this:

Note that pins 4, 5, 7, and 8 and the blue and brown pairs are not used in either standard. Quite contrary to what you may read elsewhere, these pins and wires are not used or required to implement 100BASE-TX duplexing--they are just plain wasted. However, the actual cables are not physically that simple. In the diagrams, the orange pair of wires are not adjacent. The blue pair is upside-down. The right ends match RJ-45 jacks and the left ends do not. If, for example, we invert the left side of the 568A "straight"-thru cable to match a 568A jack--put one 180 twist in the entire cable from end-to-end--and twist together and rearrange the appropriate pairs, we get the following can-of-worms:

This further emphasizes, I hope, the importance of the word "twist" in making network cables which will work. You cannot use an flat-untwisted telephone cable for a network cable. Furthermore, you must use a pair of twisted wires to connect a set of transmitter pins to their corresponding receiver pins. You cannot use a wire from one pair and another wire from a different pair.

MAKE A NETWORK CABLE

The steps below are general Ethernet Category 5 (commonly known as Cat 5) cable construction guidelines. For our example, we will be making a Category 5e patch cable, but the same general method will work for making any category of network cables.

Steps
i) Unroll the required length of network cable and add a little extra wire, just in case. If a boot is to be fitted, do so before stripping away the sleeve and ensure the boot faces the correct way.

ii) Carefully remove the outer jacket of the cable. Be careful when stripping the jacket as to not nick or cut the internal wiring. One good way to do this is to cut lengthwise with snips or a knife along the side of the cable, away from yourself, about an inch toward the open end. This reduces the risk of nicking the wires' insulation. Locate the string inside with the wires, or if no string is found, use the wires themselves to unzip the sheath of the cable by holding the sheath in one hand and pulling sideways with the string or wire. Cut away the unzipped sheath and cut the twisted pairs about 1 1/4" (30 mm). You will notice 8 wires twisted in 4 pairs. Each pair will have one wire of a certain color and another wire that is white with a colored stripe matching its partner (this wire is called a tracer).

iii) Inspect the newly revealed wires for any cuts or scrapes that expose the copper wire inside. If you have breached the protective sheath of any wire, you will need to cut the entire segment of wires off and start over at step one. Exposed copper wire will lead to cross-talk, poor performance or no connectivity at all. It is important that the jacket for all network cables remains intact.

iv) Untwist the pairs so they will lay flat between your fingers. The white piece of thread can be cut off even with the jacket and disposed (see Warnings). For easier handling, cut the wires so that they are 3/4" (19 mm) long from the base of the jacket and even in length.

v) Arrange the wires based on the wiring specifications you are following. There are two methods set by the TIA, 568A and 568B. Which one you use will depend on what is being connected. A straight-through cable is used to connect two different-layer devices (e.g. a hub and a PC). Two like devices normally require a cross-over cable. The difference between the two is that a straight-through cable has both ends wired identically with 568B, while a cross-over cable has one end wired 568A and the other end wired 568B.[1] For our demonstration in the following steps, we will use 568B, but the instructions can easily be adapted to 568A.
o

568B - Put the wires in the following order, from left to right:

white orange 4

orange white green blue white blue green white brown brown

568A - from left to right: white/green, green, white/orange, blue, white/blue, orange, white/brown, brown. You can also use the mnemonic 1-2-3-6/3-6-1-2 to remember which wires are switched.

vi) Press all the wires flat and parallel between your thumb and forefinger. Verify the colors have remained in the correct order. Cut the top of the wires even with one another so that they are 1/2" (12.5 mm) long from the base of the jacket, as the jacket needs to go into the 8P8C connector by about 1/8", meaning that you only have a 1/2" of room for the individual cables. Leaving more than 1/2" untwisted can jeopardize connectivity and quality. Ensure that the cut leaves the wires even and clean; failure to do so may cause the wire not to make contact inside the jack and could lead to wrongly guided cores inside the plug.

vii) Keep the wires flat and in order as you push them into the RJ-45 plug with the flat surface of the plug on top. The white/orange wire should be on the left if you're looking down at the jack. You can tell if all the wires made it into the jack and maintain their positions by looking head-on at the plug. You should be able to see a wire located in each hole, as seen at the bottom right. You may have to use a little effort to push the pairs firmly into the plug. The cabling jacket should also enter the rear of the jack about 1/4" (6 mm) to help secure the cable once the plug is crimped. You may need to stretch the sleeve to the proper length. Verify that the sequence is still correct before crimping. viii) Place the wired plug into the crimping tool. Give the handle a firm squeeze. You should hear a ratcheting noise as you continue. Once you have completed the crimp, the handle will reset to the open position. To ensure all pins are set, some prefer to double-crimp by repeating this step.

ix) Repeat all of the above steps with the other end of the cable. The way you wire the other end (568A or 568B) will depend on whether you're making a straightthrough, rollover, or cross-over cable (see Tips).

x) Test the cable to ensure that it will function in the field. Mis-wired and incomplete network cables could lead to headaches down the road. In addition, with power-over-Ethernet (PoE) making its way into the market place, crossed wire pairs could lead to physical damage of computers or phone system equipment, making it even more crucial that the pairs are in the correct order. A simple cable tester can quickly verify that information for you. Should you not have a network cable tester on hand, simply test connectivity pin to pin.

CONCLUSION
PART 7 4

IPTR has been much helpful to me in high learning institution. It has given me a clear image on what will be next after completing the studies. IPTR prepares me for practical tasks as portrayed by the name (Industrial Practical Training). As this concludes this report for industrial practical training as explained in, I hope it fulfills the curricular requirement of Bachelor of Computer Science.

RECOMMENDATON Industrial practical training is something crucial at improving the student ability practically. So I recommend that

The lecturers should continue with a good cooperation that they have between them and us students due to the fact that it helps and facilitates the student understanding capacity in practical studies, something which as a result yields good and fit students at practical and hence expose them to the best field of employment Also the college should make some crucial changes like bringing the wireless network. This is in order to facilitate learning accessibilities by taking different studying materials through such wireless connection.

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