Emulsiers for Skin Care Applications

Emulsiers for Skin Care Applications

The majority of Skin Care products and a very signicant percentage of toiletry products are emulsions. The basic components of these formulations are emulsiers, emollients and consistency enhancers. Additional value can be given to these formulations by including active ingredients with specic dermatological effects. The selection of these components determines the success of a formulation. The chosen emulsier is not only crucial for the stability of an emulsion, but has also a large impact on consistency, skin feel and care properties of a formulation. Emulsiers have a wide range of applications in cosmetic products. They are used in creams, lotions, sprays and foams that can be of the oil-in-water (O/W) or the water-in-oil (W/O) type. This brochure will help facilitate the selection of the Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care emulsier that is most suitable for the desired application.

The HLB System

An emulsion is a dispersion of droplets of a non-miscible liquid in a continuous phase. The polar (hydrophilic) aqueous phase and the non-polar (lipophilic) oil phase of an emulsion cannot be combined in a stable and homogenous way without a surface-active additive. Emulsiers are interfacially active substances that reduce the interfacial tension between the oil and the water phase. The emulsier is adsorbed at the interface, giving a lm between both phases, which prevents coalescence of neighbouring droplets. Due to its amphiphilic structure, the polar part of the emulsier has an afnity to the water phase and the non-polar part of the emulsier to the oil phase. Emulsiers can be dened according to their hydrophilic/lipophilic characteristics. In 1949 W.C. Grifn proposed the HLB (Hydrophile Lipophile Balance) system in which non-ionic surfactants have been classied on a scale from 0 to 20. Emulsiers with a strong lipophilic character have low HLB values between 3 to 8 and tend to form W/O emulsions. Emulsiers of the HLB range of 8 to 18 are hydrophilic and prove most suitable for O/W emulsions. HLB values from 12 to 18 are most favourable for solubilization.

HLB Value 1.5 3 38 79 8 18 13 15 12 18

Use as Antifoaming agent W/O emulsier Wetting agent O/W emulsier Wash active substance Solubilizer for aqueous systems

Figure 1: HLB System according to W. C. Grifn

The Molecular Weight

Another important basic property of emulsiers is their molecular weight, the most noticeable impact is the heat stability of W/O emulsions. Increasing the molecular weight of W/O emulsiers increases the heat stability of W/O emulsions. Experimental work on emulsions show that the highest stability of W/O emulsions could be obtained by using polymeric, polyfunctional emulsiers such as ABIL EM 90 (Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone) and ISOLAN PDI (Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate). As shown in the graph (Figure 2), emulsions based on ISOLAN PDI are stable up to 50 C. By using ABIL EM 90 as an emulsier it is possible to produce cosmetic formulations with a heat stability up to 60 C. The stabilizing potential of the organic, low molecular weight W/O emulsiers TEGIN OV (Glyceryl Oleate) and ISOLAN GI 34 (Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) is lower (only up to 40 45 C). The high emulsion stabilizing effect of ABIL EM 90 and ISOLAN PDI is most likely due to the strong adsorption on the interface which results from its amphiphilic, polymeric structure. This is an advantage over the monofunctional partial esters which have molecular weights between 500 and 2000.

60

ABIL EM 90

Upper limit of stability (oC)

50

ISOLAN PDI

ISOLAN GI 34

40

TEGIN OV

30
100 500 1000 5000 10000

Molecular weight (g/mol)

Figure 2: Emulsion stability in correlation to the molecular weight of the emulsier

Applications
With Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care emulsiers, either oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions can be prepared. Also some specic emulsion types such as triple emulsions or water-in-silicone emulsions can be formulated. Depending on the emulsier different application forms can be realized: creams, lotions, sprayable emulsions and impregnating liquids for wet wipes. Typical elds of application encompass body and skin care, sun care, after sun treatment, decorative cosmetics and deodorants/ antiperspirants.

Emulsiers Landscape
The landscape in Figure 3 should provide the cosmetic formulator a use-oriented overview of W/O and O/W emulsiers. A representative selection of 20 emulsiers are characterized according to their properties:

Molecular weight HLB value Chemistry Physical form Application form ECOCERT approved

The averaged theoretical molecular weight in g/mol is plotted on the y-axis. The HLB value on a scale from 0 to 20 is plotted on the x-axis. W/O emulsiers have a low HLB value between 3 to 8. Emulsiers of the HLB range of 8 to 18 are suitable for O/W including cationic emulsion. The colors differentiate the emulsiers by their chemistry. Silicone based emulsiers ( ) are depicted in orange and vegetable based products ( ) are colored in grey. Vegetable based, PEG-free emulsiers ( ) appear in green color. The deep purple color corresponds to cationic emulsiers ( ). The different shapes represent the physical form of the emulsier. The circle visualises a liquid emulsier, square shape stands for a solid emulsier and the triangle indicates a pasty material. The table also contains information for which application creams, lotions and sprays which emulsier is best suited for. Furthermore it informs which emulsiers have already been certied by ECOCERT the leading independent international environmental organization based in France. It is currently the largest environmental control and certication organization in Europe and it works in 80 different countries all over the world. ECOCERT follows ISO Guide 65 (EN 45011). Our ECOCERT approved product list besides emulsiers can also be found at our webpage: www.evonik.com/personal-care

20000
17 1

10000

Molecular weight [g/mol]

5 4 13

1000

15

14 18 11 9 19 8 16 12 10

500

20

10
HLB value

15

20

= silicone based = vegetable based, PEG-free

= vegetable based = cationic

= liquid = solid = paste

No.

Trade Name

Application form Cream Lotion

X X X X X

ECOCERT approved Spray

1 2 3 4 5 6

ABIL EM 90 ABIL WE 09 ABIL EM 97 ISOLAN GPS ISOLAN PDI ISOLAN GI 34

X X X X X X

7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

ABIL Care 85 AXOL C 62 TEGO Care CG 90 TEGO Care 450 TEGO Care PS TEGIN Pellets TEGINACID C TEGINACID H TEGO Care 165 TEGO Care LTP TEGO Emulprot

X
X X X X X X

X
X X X X X

X
X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X

X X

18 19 20

VARISOFT TA 100 TEGO Care CE 40 VARISOFT PATC

X X X

X X X

Figure 3: Emulsiers Landscape 5

Emulsiers for W/O Emulsions

Despite the fact that oil-in-water emulsions still dominate the cosmetic market, water-in-oil emulsions are favored when a greater emolliency is desired in Night Creams, Nappy/Diaper Rash emulsions or All Weather Creams.

Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care Emulsiers

Organosilicone emulsiers ABIL EM 90 (Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone) ABIL WE 09 (Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Hexyl Laurate) ABIL EM 97 (Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane)

The excellent stabilizing potential of the polymeric and polyfunctional organosilicone emulsiers combined with their specic application properties (excellent spreading and lm forming, skin feel) gives them an essential role in many cosmetic formulations. ABIL EM 90 and ABIL WE 09 are suitable for the preparation of Multiple Emulsions of the water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) type or the oil-in-water-in-oil (O/W/O) type. One of the most interesting possibilities of these triple emulsions is the gradual release of water-soluble or oil-soluble active ingredients from the internal phase.

Vegetable based, PEG-free emulsiers ISOLAN PDI (Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate) ISOLAN GI 34 (Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) ISOLAN GPS (Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate)

The importance of natural, PEG-free raw materials for skin care cosmetics has strongly increased. Polyglycerol esters and glucose esters of natural fatty acids are the emulsiers of choice for W/O emulsions when good application properties linked with high temperature stability and exibility of phase-volume ratio is afforded. ISOLAN GI 34 is especially suitable for W/O creams. The well-known emulsier ISOLAN PDI is used in a wide range of applications such as creams and lotions in Skin Care. ISOLAN GPS is especially designed for the formulation of low viscous W/O lotions with very low oil phase content (down to 18 20%).

Fields of Application
Body and Facial Care
Stable Body and Facial Care products can be formulated with all Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care W/O emulsiers. Therefore the choice of emulsiers for specic applications depends on the desired properties of a formulation (e.g. stability, viscosity, skin feel), on the desired processing and on the type of chemical structure of the emulsier a formulator wants to use.

Baby Care
Baby Care formulations should provide a good protection of the baby skin combined with a high caring effect and a rich skin feel. As green and natural products the vegetable based, PEG-free polyglycerol/glucose esters of the ISOLAN family are recommendable emulsiers for Baby Care applications. Baby Creams and Nappy Rash Creams based on ISOLAN PDI and ISOLAN GI 34 impart a rich skin feel and are compatible with active ingredients. With ISOLAN PDI the formulation of W/O lotions with a brilliant white appearance, good caring properties and a rich skin feel is possible.

Sun Care
Pleasant light and silky Sun Care creams and lotions with low fatting properties can be formulated with the organosilicone emulsiers ABIL EM 90 and ABIL WE 09. Sun Care emulsions with a high SPF can be formulated based on ABIL EM 90 and ABIL WE 09 due to their compatibility with high amounts of organic and inorganic UV lters. The high hydrophobicity and the good stabilizing potential of these emulsiers allow the formulation of waterproof Sun Care products.

Decorative Cosmetics
The organosilicone emulsiers ABIL EM 97, ABIL EM 90 and ABIL WE 09 are the ideal emulsiers for light make-up formulations. In Decorative Cosmetics like foundations often high contents of silicone oils are used. While ABIL EM 97 is mainly recommended for W/Si emulsions, ABIL EM 90 is known to give excellent stabilities in W/O as well as in W/Si formulations. Therefore mixtures of ABIL EM 97 and ABIL EM 90 have often proved to be favorable in Decorative Cosmetics. ABIL EM 90 and ABIL WE 09 are also known to be excellent emulsiers to obtain waterproof make-up and foundation formulations.

Deodorants/Antiperspirants
ABIL EM 97 plays a key role in the formulation of water-in-silicone emulsions for the application Deodorants/Antiperspirants. Depending on the composition of the water-in-silicone formulation clear emulsions (gels) or white emulsions with a silky soft feeling can be obtained. Antiperspirant formulations based on ABIL EM 97 provide fast release of the active with a high shelf stability for the emulsion. The fast release of AP-active from ABIL EM 97 based emulsions has been proven in tests.

Additional Benets
Skin Feel
Particular light and silky W/O creams and lotions with a soft, dry, non-sticky skin feel and low fatting properties can be formulated with the organosilicone emulsiers of the ABIL family. Especially ABIL EM 97 is known to provide an elegant silky soft character to emulsions. For the formulation of emulsions with a particular rich skin feel as desired for Night Creams, All Weather Creams or Baby Creams we recommend to use the ISOLAN polyglycerol esters such as ISOLAN GI 34 and ISOLAN PDI. W/O Lotions with a pleasant very light, non-oily skin feel can be obtained using ISOLAN GPS.

Excellent Heat/Freeze Stability

As shown in Figure 2, the heat stability of W/O emulsions is signicantly improved by using polymeric, polyfunctional emulsiers with a high molecular weight. The best available option to formulate emulsions with an excellent heat stability (depending on the formulation up to + 60 C) is therefore the organosilicone emulsier ABIL EM 90. As a PEG-free, vegetable based alternative to ABIL EM 90 the polymeric polyglycerol ester ISOLAN PDI is recommended. Depending on the formulation a heat stability up to + 50 C can be reached. With both emulsiers freeze stabilities of - 25 C can be obtained. A high emulsion stabilizing effect is also given with ISOLAN GPS.

Cold Processing
Working with wax-free formulations in a cold emulsication process is becoming more and more important for mass-market W/O lotions. Since the Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care emulsiers ABIL EM 90, ABIL WE 09, ABIL EM 97, ISOLAN PDI and ISOLAN GPS are liquid, they are well suited for such cold processed formulations. As stabilizer Zinc Stearate proved to be most effective.

Emulsiers for O/W Emulsions

Worldwide, the type of emulsion most often produced and used is of the oil-in-water variety. O/W emulsions include the more common types of cosmetic creams and lotions, as well as sprayable emulsions and impregnating liquids.

Evonik Goldschmidt Personal Care Emulsiers

Organosilicone Emulsier ABIL Care 85 (Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)

The silicone based, liquid product ABIL Care 85 combines the characteristics of an O/W emulsier with an added value concerning the velvety skin feel which can be obtained in emulsions based upon it.

Vegetable based, PEG-free Emulsiers AXOL C 62 (Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) TEGO Care CG 90 (Cetearyl Glucoside) TEGO Care LTP (Sorbitan Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Dilauryl Citrate) TEGO Care 450 (Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate) TEGO Care PS (Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) TEGO Emulprot (Sodium Citrate, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Xanthan Gum, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Magnesium Stearate)

TEGIN Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate SE)

These green and PEG-free emulsiers have application in all possible types of O/W formulations.

AXOL C 62 is a food grade emulsier which is based on natural raw materials. By using AXOL C 62 Pellets it is possible to produce cosmetic formulations with a wide range of consistencies from lotions to creams. Depending on the composition even edible emulsions can be prepared. AXOL C 62 is supplied in pellets and powder form. For the hot processing of O/W emulsions the use of AXOL C 62 Pellets is suggested due to better processing. Different to other alkyl glucoside emulsiers on the market, TEGO Care CG 90 has an extremely high content of active matter (> 90 %). It forms stable emulsions at very low usage concentrations (1 1.5 %) without the need for a co-emulsier. Due to the low content of consistency enhancers in the product a wide range of compositions with different viscosity levels can be easily formulated. When processing it is recommended to add TEGO Care CG 90 to the water phase. With TEGO Care 450 and TEGO Care PS the cosmetic formulator is given the opportunity to formulate a broad spectrum of cosmetic creams and lotions based on raw materials from a natural basis. These PEG-free methylglucose esters form O/W emulsions with a bright white appearance and pleasant application properties. TEGIN Pellets is a commonly used emulsier based on vegetable raw materials. In 1929 Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH developed this O/W emulsier which is suitable for the processing of stable creams and lotions from pH 6.8 to 8.2. TEGO Care LTP is a versatile, liquid PEG-free emulsier based on vegetable raw materials suitable for the formulation of O/W emulsions. It is especially of interest for the cold processing of lotions and sprays at room temperature and for the hot processing of creams. Emulsions based on TEGO Care LTP can be prepared with standard production processes using a homogenizer, but in cases where no homogenizer is available in production, TEGO Care LTP can also be used for the preparation of O/W lotions using intense stirring instead of a homogenization step. TEGO Emulprot is a new generation of emulsier and texturizer that is close to nature. It is a milk and sugar based, PEG-free emulsier which is produced by a biotechnological process. The product is available as a powder and suitable for hot processing. TEGO Emulprot is especially suitable for Green Natural O/W emulsions for the application Facial, Body Care and Baby Care. These green emulsiers are all approved by Ecocert.

Vegetable based Emulsiers TEGINACID C (Ceteareth-25) TEGINACID H (Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteth-20) TEGO Care 165 (Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate)

One outstanding property of the TEGINACID products is their stability in acid or weakly alkaline formulations (pH values between 4.0 and 8.5). While TEGINACID C is mainly suitable for the formulation of cosmetic and pharmaceutical creams, the main applications of TEGINACID H are O/W lotions. TEGO Care 165 is especially of interest for the processing of low cost mass market O/W emulsions. Creams and lotions containing TEGO Care 165 show improved compatibility with higher concentrations of electrolytes.

Cationic Emulsiers VARISOFT TA 100 (Distearyldimonium Chloride) VARISOFT PATC (Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) TEGO Care CE 40 (Cetearyl alcohol (and) Palmitamidopropyltrimoniumchloride)

Creams and lotions formulated with the cationic vegetable based emulsiers of the VARISOFT family provide a specic non-oily skin feel which might be favorable in formulations with higher lipid loadings. The specic properties of these formulations are due to the cationic character of the emulsier molecule. Because of this cationic character, stabilisation of the formulations with Carbomer thickeners is not favourable. However, these emulsiers are well compatible with all type of classical consistency enhancers.

Fields of Application
Body and Facial Care
Emulsiers for Facial Care applications should ideally be natural and mild products that provide some additional benets to facial skin. These aspects are met when using the emulsier TEGO Care 450. In a publication of Henkel On the Choice of O/W Emulsiers for Use in Skin Care Products for Sensitive Skin TEGO Care 450 was in-vivo tested as a very mild emulsier. Moisturizing properties as measured by corneometer have also been determined [1]. TEGO Care 450 can be seen as an excellent emulsier for Facial Care applications. Furthermore TEGO Care CG 90 and TEGO Care PS are also good emulsiers with moisturizing properties for Facial Care lotions and creams. Consumers expect Hand Care products to be easily spread, quickly absorbed and to possess a lasting caring effect. In addition, a hand cream should be difcult to wash off, i.e. it should not re-emulsify immediate on contact with water.

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TEGIN Pellets is the most commonly used emulsier in Hand Care products. Also TEGINACID C plays an important role as well approved emulsier in Hand Care creams. Combining TEGIN Pellets or TEGINACID C with TEGO Care 450 and/or TEGO Care PS in Hand Care formulations often yields additional benets such as improved water resistance or additional moisturizing properties. Body Care lotions for the low cost mass market can be formulated on the basis of the PEG-free emulsiers AXOL C 62 and TEGO Care LTP. By using different types of emulsiers a specic type of skin feel of the Body Care product can be obtained (see section Additional Benets: Skin Feel).

Baby Care
For O/W formulations in Baby Care Applications green, vegetable based, PEG-free raw materials with a high purity are requested. TEGO Care CG 90 is a natural, highly efcient emulsier of high purity which is therefore perfectly suited for formulating all different types of Baby Care emulsions.

Sun Care
In Sun Care applications emulsiers are needed that show an excellent compatibility with organic and inorganic UV lters. AXOL C 62 is a proven natural emulsier for Sun Care lotions and creams. Many cosmetic Sun Care product lines are based on this emulsier. Using the emulsier TEGO Care 450 results in Sun Care formulations with a much higher water resistance than it is usually known from O/W Sun Care products based on classical PEG-containing O/W emulsiers. Cationic emulsions have been proven to give water resistance properties and to improve the sand repellency of Sun Care products. Especially in combination with REWOPAL PIB 1000 the water resistancy can be increased.

Deodorants/Antiperspirants
In roll-on Deodorant/Antiperspirant applications ABIL Care 85 in combination with the co-emulsiers TEGINACID H or TEGO SMO 80 V allows the formulation of low viscous lotions with an excellent light and smoothing perception on the skin.

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Special Forms of Application

Sprayable Emulsions
Sprayable emulsions play a role of signicant importance in many segments of the cosmetic market (e.g. Sun Care, After Sun, Skin Care). A prerequisite in formulating sprayable emulsions are stable O/W lotions with a low viscosity. Such low viscous O/W emulsions can be also used as a basis for impregnating liquids for wet wipes. O/W sprayable lotions based on the emulsier/consistency enhancer blend TEGINACID H can be produced by the classical hot process with standard homogenization equipment. Their resulting viscosity is very low (100 500 mPas)*. Due to the ne droplet size, the emulsions show a sufcient long-term stability even with these low viscosities. The combination of ABIL Care 85 with TEGINACID H provides sprayable lotions (viscosity approx. 1500 mPas)* with an improved skin feel compared to emulsions which are only based on ethoxylated emulsiers (velvety-silky, smoothing instead of watery with a dull after feel). Sprayable emulsions based on a combination of ABIL Care 85 and a hydrophilic co-emulsier such as TEGO SMO 80 V can be obtained by cold processing. These consistency enhancer-free formulations can be stabilized by using polymeric thickeners (e.g. TEGO Carbomers). The viscosity for such sprayable lotions has to be between 1000 and 2000 mPas* in order to have a good long-term stability. A viscosity of 2000 mPas or even higher is not a problem for the spray heads that are available today. PEG-free, sprayable emulsions on basis of AXOL C 62 can be produced by hot processing via a concentrated emulsion. The emulsion viscosity can vary between 100 and 2000 mPas*. Another possibility to obtain sprayable lotions based on a PEG-free emulsier is the use of TEGO Care CG 90. Combining TEGO Care CG 90 with potassium stearate as co-emulsier in a hot process allows the formulation of stable sprayable lotions with a viscosity between 1000 and 2000 mPas*. Stable O/W sprayable lotions can be prepared with TEGO Care LTP in a cold process at room temperature using a homogenizer. TEGO Care LTP should be combined with polymeric stabilizers/thickeners in order to adjust the viscosity and the stability prole of the PEG-free emulsions. For the preparation of sprayable emulsions a combination of TEGO Carbomer 141 (INCI: Carbomer) and TEGO Carbomer 341 ER (INCI: Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer) proved to be most effective. The viscosity of the nal emulsion should be approx. 2000 mPas.
* Brookeld RVT, Spindle 4, 10 rpm.

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Wet Wipes
Low viscous O/W emulsions are of interest for many cosmetic applications. Systems of particular interest are impregnating lotions for the preparation of cosmetic wet wipes. A new technology of P.I.C. (phase inversion concentration) emulsions has been developed. The products are traded under the names TEGO Wipe DE and TEGO Wipe DE PF. TEGO Wipe DE and TEGO Wipe DE PF are unique blends of EO-free emulsiers, a caring cosmetic emollient and signicant amounts of preservatives. The INCI name of TEGO Wipe DE is Diethylhexyl Carbonate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Dilauryl Citrate, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben and Isobutylparaben. The INCI of TEGO Wipe DE PF is Diethylhexyl Carbonate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Phenoxyethanol, Dilauryl Citrate. Both products are liquid concentrates easy-to-process by dilution with water. When diluting 3 8% of TEGO Wipe DE or TEGO Wipe DE PF nely dispersed O/W emulsion can be obtained via a microemulsion-like phase. Due to the relatively high amount of preservative in TEGO Wipe DE/DE PF additional preservation of the resulting impregnating liquid may not be necessary. The production process is very simple as no heating and no homogenizer is required. Impregnating liquids made from TEGO Wipe DE/ DE PF products have a very ne degree of dispersion absolutely comparable to P.I.T. emulsions based on ethoxylated emulsiers which leads to good long-term stability.

Additional Benets
Skin Feel
With the ageing population, skin moisturization has become a key attribute to consumers. One way to achieve this effect is to boost the lipophilic content in formulas. This, however, can impart an unpleasant, unctuous feel to a skin care product. Cationic emulsion systems based on low irritation, skin friendly emulsiers are now being used to create a unique powdery feel that can mask higher lipophilic loadings. Cationic emulsiers can be included in moisturizing lotions, facial creams, Sun Care products or shaving creams to give a dry, non-oily skin feel combined with good adsorption.

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VARISOFT TA 100 offers the formulator exibility in choosing the stabilizers. Emulsions made with this emulsier are extremely light and absorb quickly to form a matte nish on the skin surface. Emulsions based on VARISOFT PATC have a light after feel but leave the skin with a soft moisturized texture. A velvety-silky skin feel combined with a long lasting skin smoothing perception can be obtained by cosmetic emulsions with the organosilicone emulsier ABIL Care 85. As a result of corneometer and FOITS measurements ABIL Care 85 can be judged as having outstanding skin moisturizing and skin smoothing properties. Lotions and creams formulated with TEGO Care 450 provide a caring, rich skin feel combined with additional moisturizing properties. The highly effective alkyl glucoside emulsier TEGO Care CG 90 is known to impart a soft and supple skin feel to O/W creams and lotions.

Performance
Modern emulsiers should provide a large exibility to the formulator regarding the range of obtainable viscosities (creams, lotions) and the range of emulsifyable oil components (emollients of different chemical structure and different polarity). Furthermore a sufcient pH range (4.5 8.0) should be accessible for the formulations based on these emulsiers. Additional requirements can be the compatibility with electrolytes or with UV lters or other active ingredients. Such a wide exibility for the formulator is offered by the versatile emulsier TEGO Care 450, which is known for its excellent compatibility with active ingredients and signicant amounts of electrolytes within the desired pH range. In specic formulations like self tanning products containing DHA (Dihydroxyacetone) a pH 4.0 is needed. TEGO Care PS can be recommended for such formulations at low pH values. In order to obtain even higher electrolyte resistance in O/W formulations, TEGO Care 165 alone or as co-emulsier can provide additional stability.

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Processing
The processing of O/W emulsions at room temperature has several signicant benets. For example, it is no longer necessary to heat the water and oil phase to 70 80 C. This saves not only considerable amounts of energy, but, as the cooling step is eliminated, the cycle time is reduced as well. Another advantage is that heat-sensitive ingredients, such as biological additives, can be added to the emulsions at any point. The liquid organosilicone emulsier ABIL Care 85 in combination with the liquid co-emulsier TEGO SMO 80 V enables cold processing of O/W lotions with velvety-silky skin feel. PEG-free, cold processable lotions can be produced by using a pre-solution of AXOL C 62. A pre-solution of 10 % of AXOL C 62 can be prepared which has a long time storage stability and which is pumpable at room temperature. This pre-solution can be easily worked into the water phase of the emulsion in a cold process. Cold processed O/W emulsions can be also obtained with the PEG-free emulsier TEGO Care LTP. This cost effective liquid emulsier is easy-to-use for cold processing of lotions and sprays. The emulsier is able to stabilize O/W lotions with and without a real homogenization step. TEGO Wipe DE/TEGO Wipe DE PF allows in a very convenient way to process O/W sprays and lotions at room temperature. The O/W emulsions can be prepared without a homogenizer only using moderate stirring to prepare the emulsion. For these applications the addition of polymeric stabilizers such as Carbomer, Xanthan Gum is necessary. The following 2 diagrams summarize the representative W/O and O/W emulsiers according to their trade name, INCI name, elds of application, usage concentration and the most important properties. The overviews are dedicated to help in selecting the right emulsier for the desired formulation.

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Trade Name

INCI Name

Properties

ABIL EM 90

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Hexyl Laurate Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/ Polyhydroxystearate/ Sebacate Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate

Silicone based emulsifier with a high stabilizing potential for emulsions due to its polymeric and polyfunctional structure Emulsifier for light creams and lotions with all kinds of oils and with a high compatibility with active ingredients, e. g. UV filters Emulsifier for multiple emulsions Optimally balanced blend of emulsifiers and an emollient, similar to ABIL EM 90 Especially suitable for sunscreen emulsions with high sun protection factors and make up formulations Emulsifier for multiple emulsions Silicone based emulsifier for water-in-silicone creams and lotions Emulsifier for antiperspirant formulations (including clear gels) with excellent delivering of antiperspirant active ingredients PEG-free emulsifier based on vegetable raw materials especially suitable for the formulation of low viscous W/O lotions with a pleasant, very light and non-oily skin feel Allows the formulation of W/O lotions with a very low content of oil phase (down to 18 20%) Vegetable based emulsifier with high stabilizing potential for emulsions due to its polymeric and polyfunctional structure Emulsifier for elegant W/O emulsions with a brilliant white appearance and pleasant application properties Emulsifier for creams with paraffin oils and with ester oils Good stability against oxidation

ABIL WE 09

ABIL EM 97

ISOLAN GPS

ISOLAN PDI ISOLAN GI 34

Figure 4: W/O Emulsiers Overview

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Usage/Concentration

Fields of Application
Facial Care Body Care Baby Care Sun Care Decorative Cosmetics Deo/AP

1.5 2.5 %

4.0 6.0 %

1.5 3.0 %

2 3%

3.0 % 2.5 4.0 %

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Trade Name

INCI Name

Properties

ABIL Care 85

Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Silicone based nonionic emulsifier for sprayable emulsions, lotions and creams Emulsions with a velvety-silky skin feel and long-lasting skin smoothing perception Cold processable and easy to handle (liquid and clear down to 0 C) PEG-free, food grade emulsifier based on vegetable raw materials Emulsifier for creams, lotions, sprays and foams Suitable for cold production of lotions (powder form) Sugar based, PEG-free emulsifier with a high purity/active matter Emulsifier for natural emulsions Additional benefits: soft and supple skin feel, moisturizing PEG-free emulsifier based on natural renewable raw materials Emulsifier for creams and lotions with all kinds of oils and with a high compatibility with active ingredients, e. g. UV filters Additional benefits: very mild to skin, moisturizing, water resistant sunscreens Similar to TEGO Care 450, but Stable creams with lower pH values (down to 3.5) Higher compatibility with electrolyte-type active ingredients PEG-free emulsifier based on renewable raw materials Stable creams and lotions from pH 6.8 8.2 Additional benefit: moisturizing Non-ionic emulsifier for cosmetic and pharmaceutic creams (US Pharmakopoeia) Creams with all kinds of oils and with a high compatibility with active ingredients Blend of emulsifier and consistency enhancer for the preparation of lotions Especially suitable for sprayable lotions (wet wipes, sun care, deodorants) as well as foaming lotions Vegetable based emulsifier for O/W creams and lotions with pleasant application properties Compatible with higher concentrations of electrolytes PEG-free, liquid O/W emulsier easy- to-use for cold processing of lotions and sprays and for hot processing of creams Able to stabilize O/W lotions prepared in a cold process without a real homogenization step

AXOL C 62

TEGO Care CG 90

Cetearyl Glucoside Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

TEGO Care 450

TEGO Care PS

TEGIN Pellets TEGINACID C

Glyceryl Stearate SE Ceteareth-25 Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteth-20 Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate Sorbitan Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Dilauryl Citrate Sodium Citrate, Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Xanthan Gum, Cyamopsis, Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Magnesium Stearate Cetearyl alcohol (and) Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride (proposed).

TEGINACID H

TEGO Care 165

TEGO Care LTP

TEGO Emulprot

A Natural Milk-and-Sugar-Based Emulsier for O/W emulsions Innovative PEG-free emulsier especially designed for Natural Cosmetic Products Cationic emulsier system for O/W creams and lotions Provides a powdery skin feel Co-Emulsier to alter a formulations sensory prole Emulsifier based on renewable raw materials for O/W emulsions Emulsions are extremely light and absorb quickly to form a matte finish on the skin surface Unique, vegetable based emulsifier for creams and lotions Formulations have a light after feel, but leave the skin with a soft moisturized texture

TEGO Care CE 40

VARISOFT TA 100 VARISOFT PATC

Distearyldimonium Chloride Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride

Figure 5: O/W Emulsiers Overview

Authors: Gabriele Polak, Dr. Jrgen Meyer, Anna Howe, Angela Paez

Guide line formulations:

For further information please visit our homepage: www.evonik.com/personal-care

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Usage/Concentration

Fields of Application
Facial Care Body Care Baby Care Sun Care Decorative Cosmetics Deo/AP

1.5 3.0 %

0.3 2.0 %

1.0 1.5 %

2.0 3.0 %

2.0 4.0 %

6.0 8.0 % 2.0 %

3.0 4.0 %

3 10 %

1.5 2.5 %

2.5 5.0 %

6.0 8.0 %

3.5 5.5 % 4.0 4.75 %

Literature:

[1] G. Kutz, P. Biehl, M. Waldmann-Laue and B. Jackwerth: On the Choice of Oil-in-Water Emulsiers for Use in Skin Care Products for Sensitive Skin, SFW-Journal 123, 145 150, 1997 [2] Dietz, Th.: Sprayable Emulsions and Foaming Lotions, SFW-Journal 128, 62 66, 2002 [3] P. Becker, J. Meyer, B. Grning: TEGO Emulprot An Innovative Milk and Sugar Based Emulsier for Natural Skin Care Concepts, Cosmetic Year Book, July 2007 [4] J. Meyer, P. Allef, H. Ftsch: A Novel PEG-free Emulsier Designed for Formulating W/O Lotions with a Light Skin Feel, SFW-Journal, November 2005 [5] J. Meyer, G. Polak, R. Scheuermann: Preparing PIC Emulsions with a Very Fine Particle Size, Cosmetic & Toiletries, January 2007

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Your Contact
Headofce
Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH Goldschmidtstrasse 100 45127 Essen Germany P.O. Box 45116 Essen phone +49 201 173-2854 fax +49 201 173-1828 personal-care@evonik.com www.evonik.com/personal-care For more detailed information or to obtain a brochure which addresses a spe-cic area of interest, please contact the Evonik Goldschmidt Head Ofce in Essen or contact your local representative.

This information and all further technical advice are based on Evonik Goldschmidt GmbHs present knowledge and experience. However, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH assumes no liability for providing such information and advice including the extent to which such information and advice may relate to existing third party intellectual property rights, especially patent rights. In particular, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH disclaims ALL CONDITIONS AND WARRANTIES, WHETHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR MERCHANTABILITY. EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT GMBH SHALL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR CONSEQUENTIAL, INDIRECT OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES (INCLUDING LOSS OF PROFITS) OF ANY KIND. Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH reserves the right to make any changes according to technological progress or further developments. It is the customers responsibility and obligation to carefully inspect and test any incoming goods. Performance of the product(s) described herein should be veried by testing and carried out only by qualied experts. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to carry out and arrange for any such testing. Reference to trade names used by other companies is neither a recommendation, nor an endorsement of any product and does not imply that similar products could not be used. (Status: February, 2008)

Europe

France
Paris phone +33 6 864 917 91

Italy
Pandino (Cr) phone +39 037 3975 221 fax +39 037 3975 260

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Milton Keynes phone +44 1908 582 250 fax +44 1908 582 254

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Granollers phone +34 938 642 178 fax +34 938 642 161

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Brasil
So Paulo phone +55 11 314 641 00 fax +55 11 314 641 31

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USA
Hopewell phone +1 804 541 86 58 fax +1 804 541 86 89

Asia

China
Shanghai phone +86 21 611 910 00 fax +86 21 611 912 64

Indonesia
Bekasi Timur phone +62 21 882 83 22 fax +62 21 882 83 21

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Korea
Seoul phone +82 2 207 123 00 fax +82 2 785 52 47

Evonik Industries AG Rellinghauser Strasse 111 45128 Essen Germany phone +49 201 177-01 fax +49 201 177-3475 www.evonik.com

03/2008

Inv.-Nr.: 22-08