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The Little Orme

Atlanta Wall

Atlanta Wall

The Little Orme

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Atlanta Wall This sunny wall has a

collection of good pocketed face climbs in a super postion above the sea. Conditions and Aspect The wall gets the sun from around 1.30pm. This is a great option for late autumn sunseekers when other crags are too cold in the shade. The exposed aspect makes it a windy spot and the routes dry quickly after rain, although Haliborange and Vitamin Sea take a bit of seepage. The routes are equipped with stainless through-bolts. Approach and Access Approach as for The Hole of Creation, continue past the cave then down the easy grass slope to a gearing up spot at the top of Atlanta Wall. There are three bolted abseil points along top of the promontory - for Haliborange, abseil from one of the two lower anchors, the rest of the routes are reached by abseiling from the first (highest) bolted anchor to a small belay ledge with a thread (sling required). There is a voluntary bird restriction from March 1st - August 15th.
1 Haliborange 6c
The left arte past 4 bolts to a bolt belay on top.
Merlin Tompkins, October 1990

3 Blue Avenue 6b

The central groove gives a good climb which feels hard for the grade. Its a bit run-out in the middle section - some may appreciate a wire or two. Top out leftwards taking care on slightly suspect rock.
Dave Lyon, September 1990

4 Sacrifice 7a+

A bit friable but still a good route. Traverse right and crimp through the fierce little crux bulge. The wall above has a couple of tricky sections where hidden pockets usually provide the solution. Purists will avoid stepping left into Blue Avenue higher up. Top out to the bolted ab station.
Dave Lyon, September 1990

5 King of Emotion 7a

Go through the crux bulge as for Sacrifice, then move right and climb the face just left of the corner past 5 bolts. Top out to the ab point.
Dave Lyon, October 1990

6 Atlanta E1 5b

The impressive corner crack is often wet. The original ascent started from a ledge at the tip of the promontory (low-tide only) and traversed the face to belay at the foot of the crack. Top out to the belay at the start of the detritus hand-line.
Rowland Edwards, Ian Pomfrett 29.6.74

(See topo on page ***)

2 Vitamin Sea 6b+

Very good climbing on hidden sinker pockets - it might feel a bit E3 ish due to the bolt spacing. Traverse out left from the belay then climb the face on excellent rock pockets. Top out to the abseil anchor.
Merlin Tompkins, October 1990

Pete Harrison making the most of the late autumn sun on Blue Avenue, 6b. Photo: Mike Hutton.