10 Steps to Creating a Composited Image

with Brooke Shaden

Step One Take the time to think first, and then shoot second. Think about the WHY. If you can visualize how you want the image to look, you are more likely end up with a finished product that you are happy with. Before pulling out your camera, consider things like props, color, wardrobe, location, and any other element that might be relevant to the finished photograph. If you can visualize it, you can create it. Step Two Figure out the HOW! Once you have the why down, it is time to figure out how you can make your idea come to life. I never start thinking about how to do something until I have my idea fleshed out. I never want to limit myself to what I have available, since so much becomes available once you set out to do it. There are nearly unlimited resources available to learn techniques, and at the forefront of that education is creativeLIVE. Step Three Pulling your resources is a great next step in the process. I frequent thrift stores as well as vintage stores to keep a current supply of costumes and props. Remember not to settle for a costume or prop if possible because they can be so specific; once you use a prop, it is hard to use it again without being repetitive, so try to do it right the first time. I use websites like modelmayhem.com for models, and etsy.com or ebay.com for props and wardrobe.

Step Four Go out and shoot! Carefully consider time of day and location, and also make sure you have your technique down. If you are going to shoot items separately on a backdrop and place them in the shot later, make sure you know that ahead of time so you can match camera angle and lighting. When I am shooting, I always start with a main shot. The main shot is the one that will be used to build on top of. Think of it as the picture that contains the most content: the model, in the pose, with as many props as needed, all in one picture. The rest of the shots you need will simply be added on top. Step Five Check your lens out to make sure you are shooting consistently. When shooting a composite, I often lock my focus down to manual so that if things need to be moved in and out of the shot (various props, for example, or even removing the model), the focus won't shift halfway through shooting. Step Six Check for continuity! Even though continuity is a film term, in photography I mean it to be the flow of your images. Make sure that every shot you have taken makes sense together. Check for consistent lighting, camera angles, focus, etc. If something is off, it is usually better to try again rather than work with what you have. Even if it looks "good enough" in your camera, it might not look so great printed, so zoom in close and make sure you are spot on. Step Seven Get into Photoshop! Or whichever editing program you like to use. Photoshop is wonderful, and GIMP is free and has a lot of the same functions. I personally don't use Lightroom or any other programs before editing, aside from making changes in camera raw if necessary. When doing a composited image, it is often best to leave the images untouched so that when you put them together, they match. If you change the color on one and not another, you might be adding together two images with completely different color in them. As much as everything can be cohesive, the better. Step Eight Once compositing is finished, meaning that you have added in your extra shots (including things like clouds or birds), I make overall changes to the image. This is the point in which I will change the colors, contrast, and light in the image. My weapon of choice is curves, and through curves I am able to change brightness, darkness, contrast, and color. I use tools like the lasso tool to section off specific parts of the image to make individual changes.

Step Nine My last editing step is to add texture to an image. I put the texture on top of the picture I am working in and then change the blend mode from "normal" to "soft light." Play around with different blending modes until you find one that works for you. Remember that you can clone different parts of the texture that you like or don't like, as well as erasing pieces that don't flow with the image. I use all of my textures in black and white so as not to affect the color of the image. Step Ten My last step is to save and print! When I save my images, I always save a .psd file so that my layers are preserved (a .tif file is fine as well). I also save a small .jpg that I upload to the internet (700px). I save a flattened .tif file for my printer when I create prints of that image. If ever I need to go back to make changes to my file, I use the .psd with all of the layers preserved so that I can access them again.