How to do a Compression Test

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How to do a Compression Test

A compression test is an easy way to determine the internal health of your engine. You can pay a dealership $50 to do it for you, or you can do it yourself in about 10-15 minutes. Here's how... You will need:
compression gauge 13/16" spark plug socket You can get one of these for between $15 and $50 almost anywhere you can get auto supplies, including Canadian Tire, Pep Boys, and even WalMart. You don't need a particularly good or expensive one just to make sure you're in spec. Obviously, and a socket wrench, to take out the spark plugs.

Optional, but recommended:

4 new NGK BPR6ES In case any of the plugs are fouled. The NGK are the most frequently recommended spark plugs plugs on the Talon Digest by Club DSM members, so who am I to argue? plug gapping tool If you're not replacing your plugs, and even if you are, you might as well make sure they're properly gapped. oil and a funnel In case you need to do the wet test.

How To:
1. Before you begin, make sure the battery is fully charged. Take it for a good hard drive. 5 minutes of idling wont cut it. 2. Pull the MPI (MultiPort Injection) fuse on the positive terminal of your battery. This cuts power to the injectors so they dont spray gas all over the place.

3. Unplug the coil connector, its on the right side, at the back of the block. You could get a nasty shock if you dont.

4. Remove all 4 plugs and examine them carefully for signs of a problem. If your valve seals are bad in any cylinder, the plug will be fouled to some degree. Signs of oil on the plugs could indicate a ring problem.

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How to do a Compression Test

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5. Screw the compression gauge into the plug hole 6. Press the gas pedal to the floor to open the throttle plate, and keep it at WOT (wide open throttle) for as long as youre cranking (if you didnt pull the MPI fuse, there would be a bit of a mess, now). 7. Turn the ignition to the ON position, and hold it there for a count of four revolutions (do not turn the key on-and-off four times). On each rotation, the gauge needle will jump slightly less than the previous one. Update: It may take more than 4 revolutions to get a stable reading; crank for up to 10 seconds or until the needle stabilizes, whichever comes first. Note: If your battery is weak, the engine will turn over slower and give you lower readings. 8. The last number the gauge jumps to is the compression for that cylinder. 9. Repeat for each cylinder.

Compression specifications
=> 14 psi maximum difference between cylinders

1G (90-94) T/E/L
Compression ratio Standard compression Service limit

1.8L NT engine
9.0:1 185 psi 131 psi

2.0L NT engine
9.0:1 192 psi 145 psi

2.0L Turbo engine

7.8:1 164 psi 121 psi

2G (95-99) T/E
Compression ratio Standard compression Service limit

2.0L NT 420A engine

9.8:1 170-225 psi 100 psi

2.0L 4G63 Turbo engine

8.5:1 178 psi 133 psi

2.4L NT Spyder engine

9.5:1 192 psi 146 psi

Galant (89-93)
Compression ratio Standard compression Service limit

SOHC 8v engine
8.5:1 178 psi 125 psi

SOHC 16v engine

9.5:1 185 psi 139 psi

Galant (89-93)
Compression ratio

DOHC pre-91 NT engine

9.0:1

DOHC 92+ NT engine DOHC Turbo engine

9.8:1 7.8:1

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Standard compression Service limit

192 psi 137 psi

220 psi 159 psi

164 psi 114 psi

10. In this picture you might not be able to make out the number ... but ... cylinder 2 is losing compression big-time!

All a "wet test" entails is a bit of oil in the low cylinder...

11. Add one capful (1-2 tablespoons) of oil to the cylinder with low compression. 12. Let it sit for a minute to allow the oil to flow down and coat the sides of the cylinder and piston. If there are any gaps in the rings, the oil will seal them for the next few minutes.

13. Crank the engine for 4 revs, remembering to floor the throttle. 14. If the reading improved significantly (more than 30 psi), your rings are probably worn. 15. If there is little or no improvement, take it to a garage that can perform a leak-down test to determine where the compression is escaping (intake, exhaust, crankcase, gasket, etc.). 16. Replace the plugs, preferably in the same cylinders they came out of. You may want to clean or re-gap them first, or put in new ones. A dab of anti-seize on the threads would be a good idea. 17. Remember to put the MPI fuse and coil connector back. Youre not going anywhere without them!

Copyright 2000-2004 by Marta Cepek Images or text from this website may not be reproduced without the author's written permission (emails to spam@dsmgrrrl.com will be automatically deleted. Replace "spam" with "marta"). Pictures are of a stock 1G 2.0L Turbo engine. Hands provided by Benoit Labossiere of Camo Tuning, Montreal, Quebec. 1G DSM compression specifications from Haynes Manual. All other compression specs out of the Service Manuals (Vineet Singh's DSM Backup CD).

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