The Digging Fork
A Davis Garden Newsletter
January - February 2008
January
Planting Cool season hardy annuals
Perennials: CA natives,
most everything except
frost tender plants
Cool season vegetables:
cilantro, potatoes (end of
month),
Bare-root plants: asparagus,
artichokes, strawberries,
see berries, rhubarb, grapes,
Plant Notes fruit trees, ornamental
trees, shrubs, vines, roses
Seeding Cool season hardy annuals
directly Cool season vegetables:
into the Cilantro, peas (late Jan., soak
garden seed overnight, then pre-germinate
4-5 days between moist paper
towels)
see
Plant Notes
Seeding Warm season vegetables:
basil, eggplant, peppers,
inside or
tomatillos, tomatoes (to be
greenhouse planted in the garden mid-April)
Warm season flowers
Fertilize
Spray nectarines and peaches
Pest & with fixed copper around
Disease New Year’s Day for peach
leaf curl.
Control Spray fruit and nut trees,
roses with dormant oil to
control over-wintering eggs
and fungal spores.
Control for snails, slugs,
earwigs and cabbage worms
as needed.
Protect seedlings from birds.
Tasks Prune: deciduous trees,
shrubs, roses, fruit trees
(except apricots), grapes.
(Don’t prune spring flowering
shrubs, trees, vines or once
blooming roses until after bloom)
Continue garden cleanup:
pick up leaves, cut back
herbaceous perennials
(don’t cut back frost tender
perennials until late spring),
remove unwanted
seedlings or transplant,
cultivate with digging
fork, weed and mulch
Divide and replant
herbaceous perennials.
Order warm season bulbs
see for spring planting
Plant Notes
Frost protection continues.
Don’t prune frost
damaged plants until new
growth begins.
Water under large eaves.
Water
Hydrated plants survive frost
better than dry ones!
February
Cool season hardy annuals
Perennials: see January
Cool season vegetables:
broccoli, cabbage, lettuce,
cauliflower, cilantro,
potatoes, artichokes
Bare-root plants:
see January
Warm season bulbs:
gladiolus
Cool season hardy annuals
Cool season vegetables:
beets, carrots, cilantro,
leeks, parsnips (presoak seed
overnight), peas (soak seed
overnight, then pre-germinate 4-5
days between moist paper towels),
radish, Swiss chard,
green onions
Warm season vegetables:
basil
Warm season flowers
Citrus with citrus fertilizer
Spray nectarines and peaches
with fixed copper around
Valentines Day for peach
leaf curl.
When pruning look for borer
damage and cut off infected
limbs.
Continue control of snails,
slugs, birds, cabbage worms
Pruning continues
Finish pruning deciduous
trees.
Finish pruning fruit trees
before they bloom.
Finish pruning roses by
Valentines day.
Paint trunk of newly
planted trees with
whitewash to
protect from sunburn.
Garden clean-up continues
and should be complete this
month to enjoy the spring.
Divide & replant perennials
Ornamental grasses: cut to
the ground in late winter to
early spring, when new
growth appears.
Water under large eaves.
Check drip lines for leaks
and flush them -- easier
now with less plant growth.
Unknown fungus in Patricia’s garden
Fungi in the Garden
Fungi are no longer classified as plants but are still an
important and very interesting part of the garden. Without
chlorophyll, fungi can’t photosynthesize and must get their
food from their environment.
Saprophytic fungi get their food from dead organic
matter, both plants and animals, and greatly helps with
decomposition. This group of fungi is the one that produces
many of the mushrooms we see during our wet season.
Most of the fungus organism is under the ground or in
decaying logs and is a white, threadlike mass called
mycelium. These often can be found clumping groups of
leaves or pine needles together and under moist boards or
loose bark on rotting trees. It is when the mycelia form the
fruiting bodies (mushrooms) that we see the diverse and
interesting types of fungi that exist. The function of this
fruiting stage is to produce the large number of minute
spores that disperse to grow into more mycelium. Some of
these mushrooms are edible, some hallucinogenic and some
very poisonous! Yeast used in breads and beer making and
penicillin used for medicine are saprophytic fungi.
Parasitic fungi get their energy from plants and animals
that are living, often to the determent of the host. Examples
of this type of fungi are seen in our gardens as rust on
hollyhocks, mildew on roses, corn smut (edible fungus
Mexicans call huitlacoche) and the lichen that grows on
trees. Gardeners are spraying fixed copper now to control
the peach leaf curl fungus on peaches and nectarines.
Mycorrhizal fungi is the third type of fungus common in
the garden and it has a symbiotic relationship with plants.
Both the plant and fungus benefit from this association! The
network of mycelium and roots of the plant form a swelling
called mycorrhizae that we can easily see on many plant
roots, like legumes. This is the area where the plant
provides carbohydrates for the fungus and the fungus helps
supply water and nutrients to the plant. The mycelia are an
extension of the roots and helps provide many of the
minerals the plant needs but has trouble absorbing easily,
like nitrates. Symbiotic relationships form between specific
species of plants and fungus, and this is why a specific
fungus will only be found under a certain tree species. A
large number (90%) of plants benefit from such a
relationship, and many can’t grow without it. This winter
look for some of the fascinating fungi growing in your
garden. See photos of the many found in Patricia’s garden.
http://botit.botany.wisc.edu/toms_fungi/fotm.html Fungi of the
Month written by Tom Volk, University of Wisconsin-La Crosse
 Plant sales and events
UCD Arboretum
Plant Sale and Social (Members only, but can join at door)
March 15, 9 am to 1 pm
Lots of great guided tours and workshops coming up!!
For information 752-4880 www.arboretum.ucdavis.edu
Davis Garden Club
Program TBA January 28, 7 to 9 pm
Growing Cut Flowers February 25, 7-9 pm
For information 222-3052 www.davisgardenclub.org
Dog vomit fungus is not a fungus at An elf cup fungus Davis Flower Arrangers
all – it’s really a slime mold Bonsai and Miniature Landscapes January 9, 7 pm
What to do with Anthuriums (3 arrangers) Feb. 6, 7 pm
Local classes and workshops Ikebana March 5, 7 pm
UCD Project Compost Workshops For information contact the President at 756-6722
Backyard Composting January 26 Plant Sales at The Gifted Gardener
Worm Composting March 1 Saturdays January 26 and February 23 9:30 am to 3 pm
For information contact Project Compost 754-8227 18th and J Streets, Sacramento. Sales benefits local charities
or http://projectcompost.ucdavis.edu/ Information GardenNotes@sbcglobal.net (916) 923-3745
Woodland College Mini-courses: Friends of the Davis Library Book Sale
Landscape Pruning Feb. 15 to 16 February 1, 2, 3 Often good finds on gardening books!
Gardening: Selecting Trees & Shrubs Feb. 29 to Mar 1 For information and times 757-5593 or Erik at 753-3926
Gardening: Design the Yard Mar. 14 to 15 San Francisco Flower and Garden Show
These courses are held Friday evenings and Saturday March 12-16 http://www.gardenshow.com/sf/index/index.asp
mornings. For information 661-5720 www.yccd.edu
Gardening Skills Class – Davis Adult School
Tuesdays, January 29 to March 11, 6:30 to 8:30 pm
Plus two garden field trips -- Sunday February 3 and 24th
Taught by Lyle Wilen and Patricia Carpenter
Information 757-5380 www.djusd.k12.ca.us/AdultSchool
Master Gardener Workshops
Rose Pruning Clinic January 5 10 to 12 am
Planting Bare-root Fruit Trees & Grape Vines
January 26 10 am to 12 noon
Fruit Tree Training and Pruning January 26 1 to 3 pm
Workshops are free and held at Woodland Community College
http://ceyolo.ucdavis.edu/Gardening_and_Master_Gardening/
Woodland Library Rose Club
Rose Pruning Seminar January 12 9:30 am to 12 noon This fungus is only about 1” tall Corn smut (huitlacoche)
Leake Room, Woodland Library. Bring pruning shears, gloves.
Davis Central Park Gardens Cool and warm season vegetables and flowers
Rose Pruning Workshop Saturday, January 19 10 am
Cool season, hardy annuals can be planted or seeded in the fall,
For more information http://www.centralparkgardens.org
but the end of January to February is the last chance to get them
Herbarium Specimen Preparation Workshop into the ground. This allows for ample growth before the
Saturday, January 19 9 am to 3 pm warmer temperatures begin in May. Hardy annuals generally
Held at UCD Cost is $40 to the general public bloom in the spring. The hardy annual cilantro loves cold
For more information or to register, contact Ellen Dean, weather and will bloom (bolt) when the weather warms. Half-
Curator of the Center for Plant Diversity (530) 752-1091 hardy annuals can’t take extreme cold so are planted when the
http://herbarium.ucdavis.edu weather is starting to warm in early March, when there is little
City of Davis Worm and Garden Composting chance of frost. Most of these plants bloom in early summer to
Free compost bin by taking Davis Compost fall. Sunflowers are half-hardy annuals that start to sprout up in
Correspondence Class the garden in March.
Information www.davisrecycling.org (530) 757-5686 Warm season plants (sometimes called frost sensitive perennials
or tender annuals) need to be planted in the garden when the
soil and air temperatures are warm , which is usually mid-April
to early May. Planting earlier usually does little good and for
some plants, like eggplant, growth is stunted and the plant never
seems to recover. Seeds for these plants can be started indoors
right now to be transplanted into the garden later.
The Digging Fork newsletter for Sept/Nov 2007 has information
about planting cool and warm season annuals, both vegetables
and flowers.
Fungus on a dead log

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 Plant notes!
Here is more information about some plants mentioned in this newsletter.
Cool season annual flowers:
See The Digging Fork Sept-Oct 2007 for more information
annual chrysanthemum Chrysanthemum paludosum
annual clary sage Salvia viridis
Ammi majus
breadseed or opium poppy Papaver somniferum
california poppy Eschscholzia californica
cornflower, bachelor’s button Centaurea cyanus
farewell-to-spring, godetia Clarkia amoena
Flanders, corn and Shirley poppy Papaver rhoeas
forget-me-not Myosotis sylvatica
larkspur Consolida ambigua .
sweet peas Lathyrus odoratus
knotweed, kiss-me-over-the-garden-gate Persicaria orientale
red flowering flax Linum grandiflorum
Cool season perennials:
cyclamen C. persicum (florist) and C. hederifolium (hardy)
Tubers of hardy cyclamen are planted in summer and bloom in fall
before leaves emerge, very easy to grow.
Iceland poppy Papaver nudicaule Short lived perennial grown
as annual. Easy to find in nurseries.
ornamental cabbage Brassica oleracea Often grown as an
annual, but better to cut back before it bolts and it will produce many
rosettes the following fall.
pansies Viola x wittrockiana
primroses Primula Polyanthus Group Plant under deciduous
trees as they need summer shade.
snapdragons Antirrhinum majus Short lived perennial
stock Matthiola incana Short lived woody perennial often planted
as an annual. Easy to find dwarf varieties in nurseries.
Bare-root:
artichoke Perennial that can be planted as bare-root or plants can be
added to the garden throughout the year. Cut off main stalk after
harvesting crop to encourage side sprouts and a second crop.
asparagus Takes a lot of space but nice to harvest fresh spears each
spring after a couple years of establishing the plant.
berries Black berries and boysenberries do well here - best grown on
some kind of trellis. Canes grow the first year without fruit. The
second year the fruit grows on these canes, then the cane dies and needs
to be cut to the ground. But new canes are growing for the next year’s
harvest. Blueberries need very acid soil and might be grown in pots.
fruit trees It’s worth doing some research on varieties, rootstock,
winter chill requirements and planting tips for our area. See article in
The Digging Fork Jan-Feb 2007
grapes Do well in Davis and can be used to cover patios structures.
Mildew problems are lessened with good air circulation and the vines
must be pruned each year.
ornamental trees, shrubs and vines Planting bare-root is generally
cheaper than buying potted plants.
roses Redwood Barn Nursery and Youngmark Nursery in Woodland
have a good selection.
strawberries June bearing plants have a heavy crop in late spring and
everbearing plants have two crops per year, spring and fall. Plant the
crown high. Fruit production stops when temperatures reach 85 deg. F.
Warm season bulbs:
amaryllis Hippeastrum Often forced to bloom inside. Then plant
outside in sunny location to bloom again the following year in June.
begonia (tuberous) Begonia Prefer cooler areas with pm. shade.
calla Zantedeschia A favorite-- Z. elliottiana is yellow and likes sun!!
dahlia Dahlia Bait for snails and slugs when leaves emerge!!
daylily Hemerocallis Tuberous roots, evergreen and deciduous types.
gladiolus (grandiflora) Gladiolus To extend the bloom, plant
bulbs every 15 days starting in February.
Peruvian daffodil Hymenocallis narcissiflora Bulb from the
Peruvian Andes. Available in white or creamy yellow, bloom in July.
rain lily, fairy lily Zephyranthes Will naturalize and spread.
spider lily Lycoris radiata Red flowers in fall, multiply.
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Fan rake, bypass pruners, kneepads, forged trowel, long and short handled
loppers with bolted handles, stirrup hoe, gloves, folding pruning saw, bow
rake with compression attachment, digging fork
Garden Tools
For every task, having the correct tool is a must for
ensuring the job gets done as efficiently as possible.
Gardening is no exception. There are numerous tools
available to gardeners but some are more useful than
others when it comes to everyday gardening. The amount
spent on a tool is up to the gardener, but investing in
quality tools is going to save time and money from
constant repairs and quick replacements. When looking
for tools, materials can make a difference. Wood handles
are usually lighter but if left out in the elements degrade
faster then heavier metal ones. Stainless steel tools are
becoming more available and don’t rust. There is less
breakage with forged, one piece tools. Look for tools with
handles that are attached by rivets or screws rather than
compression. The compression weakens and the trowel or
rake head can fly off. Tools with ergonomic handles are
available and generally cause less stress on the wrist
when digging or pruning. Below is a list of gardening
tools we think are essential.
Digging fork: Of course this was going to be first on the
list, but joking aside there are plenty of reasons to have one
in your gardening arsenal. Traditional shovels lift soil in
large clumps making the soil compacted as well as making
cultivating difficult on the back. Digging forks cultivate the
soil with minimal lifting and compaction. They are also
great for mixing compost into the soil, lifting bulbs, digging
up plants and weeding.
Hand pruners: A garden essential. Used for deadheading,
cutting back and pruning branches up to 1” in diameter.
Hand pruners can either be bought with an anvil blade or a
bypass blade. Anvil blades are good for pruning dead
material but can crush live material. Bypass blades tend to
work better all around.
Hand trowel: Necessary for digging small holes for
annuals, bulbs, planting in pots and weeding.
Loppers: Gets the job done where hand pruners leave off
by cutting limbs 1” thick or greater. Long handles give a
better reach and leverage but can be a bit more cumbersome
than shorter handled ones. Blade selection is anvil or
bypass. An added bonus of having a bypass blade is the
shape of the blade sometimes acts as a hook to hold the
branch while you make a cut. Loppers are also great for
pruning rose canes. They allow cuts to be made in the center
of the plant without getting your hand scratched up.
 More gardening tips!
Bucket: Can purchase a bucket with a handle or use a black
five to fifteen gallon pot that a plant came in. These are
great for collecting weeds, debris and dumping mulch in a The Yolo Gardener
flower bed. A nice advantage to black plant containers is the This quarterly publication by Yolo County Master Gardeners
holes in the bottom that allow water to drain out if it is left has an article in the Winter 2007 issue about planting and
out in the garden during a rain or overhead irrigation. maintaining fruit trees that includes many useful websites.
Wheelbarrow or garden cart: For moving compost or https://ucce.ucdavis.edu/mg/users/documents/6215The%5F
mulch into the garden or removing weeds and debris out of Yolo%5FGardener12841.pdf
the garden, a wheel barrow or cart is helpful. They come in
Planting bare-root. Soak bare-root plants for a few hours
all sizes so whether your garden is small or large there is one
before planting. Plant on a mound for better drainage.
to fit your needs. If the thought of having to balance a load
Make sure the graft side of the trunk with the concave curve
in a wheel barrow is frightening, a garden cart may be for
points to the north-east to avoid sunburn damage. In
you. Most come with four wheels. A wheelbarrow with a
addition, paint the entire trunk and lower branches with
flat tire is frustrating. To prevent this, consider replacing the
white latex paint mixed with water. Tree guards will protect
tire with a solid rubber tire that will never go flat!
the trunk from pest and equipment injury.
Garden hose: Mandatory for most gardens. Having several
throughout the garden will help lower the frustration of Great book about Vegetable Gardening!
having to drag the hose a long way, often damaging plants. Garden Secrets by Dorothy Hinshaw Patent and Diane E.
Investing in a good hose will save a lot of headaches. Kink- Bilderback. 1997 edition.
free is hard to come by but usually thicker hoses kink less. Peas can germinate at soil temperatures as low as 40 deg. F but this
Buy hoses with metal fittings versus plastic as they stand up can take up to 36 days. At 68 deg. F the peas are up in the garden
in 8 days. To speed up germination in our cold February, soak
to being dropped on the ground better. Pre-coiled hoses
seeds overnight, then pre-germinate 4-5 days between moist paper
sound like a great idea, but they kink very easily and have to towels. Take care when planting these fragile sprouts.
be staked into the ground if left to water in plants.
Adjustable fan rake: Can rake over most plants without
causing damage. Can change the width to cover larger areas
or make it smaller to fit in between plants.
Oscillating (stirrup) hoe Imagine a hoe with the inside
removed. This is a great tool for weeding large areas
without having to bend down. Dragging the hoe back and
forth over the area removes young weeds, roots and all. For
larger weeds, the hoe decapitates them, killing them if they Pre-germinated peas ready to plant Carrots ready to harvest
are annual weeds and slowing the growth down if they are Carrot seeds take forever to germinate and are difficult to get
perennial. growing if they dry out. After planting, water well and cover seed
Pruning saw: Great for cutting off limbs. Look for blades bed with a wet burlap bag to keep the ground moist. Moisten the
with three-sided razor teeth that cut with both forward and bag often and remove it when the seeds have sprouted.
backward strokes. There are many with folding blades, but Spraying peach and nectarine trees with copper based
be wary of wing-nut versions which can loosen and fold on fungicide with at least 50% copper (fixed copper) will help
your hand while pruning. prevent peach leaf curl. Cover the entire tree with the
Bow rake: Good for spreading compost and mulch, de- spray. If you are having difficulty finding fixed copper, try
thatching grass and leveling out planting beds. Rakes have Redwood Barn Nursery. See the links below for
hard metal teeth about 3” long. information about dormant sprays.
Shovel: A pointed shovel is good for digging large holes, http://www.redwoodbarn.com/dormspray.html
moving loads of compost, mulch or soil. In clay soils, http://www.redwoodbarn.com/spray_organic.html
shovels tend to compact the sides of holes.
Kneepads and gloves Definitely optional. If you have
ever been bitten by a centipede you might reconsider not
wearing gloves. Knee pads make gardening more enjoyable.
Look for tools at local nurseries and :
Peaceful Valley Farm Supply www.GrowOrganic.com
Lee Valley Tools www.leevalley.com
Gempler’s www.gempler’s.com

Artichoke stalks should have been cut Spider lily

Newsletter created by:

Marlene Simon -- UCD graduate in Horticulture
Patricia Carpenter -- Garden Design and Education,
with over 30 years of Davis gardening experience.

The bi-monthly newsletter is free if received by email. If mailed,

the cost is $15 per year. To be added to the subscription list or to
unsubscribe, contact us at: TheDiggingFork@gmail.com
Florist cyclamen Hardy cyclamen, leaves just emerging
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