WC 54 Aug Sep - 2013

WIN $15,000 in Powermatic Tools p.
7
Projects, Techniques, and Products
Create a Great Home Shop With Just Two Walls!

p.20
4 All-Star Shop Projects

n n n n
Compact Workbench Precision Mitersaw Cabinet Mobile Planer Cart Power Tool Tower
Vol. 9/No. 54 Aug/Sept 13
Plus
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Apply a Tough Epoxy Shop Floor Build Time-Saving RTA Cabinets 12 Shop Setup Products
Display until October 1, 2013
WorldMags.net Whats The Secret To Flawless Edge Proles With NO REWORK?
Freuds Quadra-Cut 4 Cutter Design Router Bits
Freuds Exclusive 4 Cutter Design
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Other Router Bit 2 Cutter Design
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SCAN WITH MOBILE DEVICE
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Two large cutter wings shear upward to remove most of the stock for fast, extremely smooth cuts. Two small cutter wings shear downward for an ultra-ne nish, even when routing crossgrain in delicate materials!
Ideal for Any Project that Requires a Flawless Finish!
For more information visit: www.freudtools.com/Quadra-Cut
Red router bits are a registered trademark of Freud America, Inc. (US) 1-800-472-7307
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WorldMags.net FEIN MULTIMASTER MultiMount E-CUT Saw Blades:

The blades that make your oscillating tool better!
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Aug/Sept 2013
Contents: Projects
38
Mobile Mitersaw Stand
Designed for a 10" or 12" compound mitersaw, the cabinet includes built-in dust collection, drop-down wings for easy storing, and adjustments for customizing the fence, shelf, and wings to your tool model.
48 55 64

Construct the sturdy bench base in just few weekends. Then save time by buying and bolting on the 24 60" laminated top. Add a pair of vises to make your bench work harder.
Compact All-Purpose Workbench
Workbench Tool Cabinet
Make the compact workbench work even harder with this four-drawer cabinet. The simple-to-make case can be resized to fit the bench you already own.
58

Give your benchtop planer a permanent home with this two-drawer mobile unit, complete with locking casters. (Your back will thank you.)
Planer Cart
Store benchtop machines and other portable power tools in this 32" wide 24" deep 76" high cabinet. Adjustable shelves let you customize the interior space to suit.
Power Tower
2 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
Cover photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert
WorldMags.net CREATE YOUR OWN MASTERPIECE
LAGUNATOOLS.COM
FOR MORE INFORMATION CALL US AT 800.234.1976
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Contents: Tools & Techniques WorldMags.net
20

24
The Two-Wall Workshop
Epoxy Paint Shop Floor
Gather in the ideas, projects, and products featured here to create a great home shop or to improve the one you already own.
We team up with the experts at Rust-Oleum to show how to prep a concrete floor, and then coat it with an attractive, nonslip, epoxy paint and sealer.
34

Shop Setup Products
After equipping your shop with power, lights, and cabinets, consider the 12 products in this roundup to add specialized storage, versatility, or comfort.
Departments
06 Cutting In 08 Mailbox 10 Hot New Tools Ready-ToAssemble Cabinets
Micro Jig Pushblocks Whiteside Pro Pen Mandrels
28
Get your workshop up and running in a weekend with these made-to-order cabinets from Cabinotch. Complete the cabinets with drawers and doors as explained here.
14 Tips & Tricks 70 WoodSense: Boxelder 74 Well-Stocked Shop:

Detail Saws
Innovative Solutions for Wood Finishing
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www.mirkawoodworking.us
White Wood Finishing
High Gloss Finishing
Solid Surface Finishing
Mirka offers the perfect combination of net abrasives, tools and dust extractors for a virtually dust-free sanding solution. Mirkas net abrasives offer unparalleled dust extraction across the entire abrasive surface and virtually dust-free sanding! Mirkas CEROS electric finishing sanders are effective and durable tools for professional sanding. These machines are built for maximum dust extraction even at low suction power. The MV-912 portable dust extractor is a premium, variable power vacuum that is strong enough for use by multiple users with the optional dual operator fitting.
WorldMags.net Mirka Abrasives, Inc. 7950 Bavaria Road, Twinsburg, Ohio 44087 tel 800-843-3904 fax 800-626-6970
Cutting WorldMags.net In
Our history of idea-filled workshops

hile the effort can prove exhausting, every two years at Woodcraft Magazine, the editorial staff teams up to create an ideafilled home workshop using real-world settings. In the June/July 2009 issue, we featured the magazines new workshop in a 30 50' enclosed space. There, we showed how to make MDF (mediumdensity fiberboard), melamine, and birch plywood shop cabinets. We also worked through the steps for nailing down a workshop wood floor and installing a small-shop dust-collection system. In the October/November 2011 issue, we took a cluttered 24 24' two-car garage and transformed it into a hardworking HOP ISSUE! SPECIAL WORKS workshop, complete with modular flooring tiles, a workbench/assembly e ag table, a lumber storage/mitersaw station Extreme Gar ver eo ak M Shop combo, clamp racks, and other projects BEFORE destined to instantly earn their place in any shop. For those starting from scratch, we even suggested a logical order of construction, SHOP beginning with a basic workbench/assembly PROJECTS table that provided a staging ground to PLUS Workstations & Start-to-Finish Storage Solutions Game Plan complete the remainder of the projects. the g osin Cho Mobility for ace Perfect Workbench Multiuse Spa Fast forward to this August/September 2013 issue and its two-wall workshop (page 20), designed to help you outfit adjacent walls in a garage or basement with storage, lumber, and tools. Rather than build an assortment of cabinets from a stack of plywood, we went with simple, ready-to-assemble base and wall cabinets that you can order in any size and configuration, and that go together in just minutes. All you do is build the doors and drawers and apply an exterior finish. In addition, we show how to lay down a twopart epoxy floor paint to give you an attractive, hardwearing, nonslip surface on which to work. Four featured projects round out the offerings, including a workbench with cabinet storage, a mobile mitersaw stand, a planer cart, and a power tower storage unit for your benchtop and portable power tools. If the effort we pour into these special editions helps you improve your shop or create an awesome new shop that fills your woodworking needs, then, hey, its worth it. To see the previous shop issues, find the digital versions at woodcraftmagazine.com.
ucts iques, and Prod Projects, Techn
Aug/Setp 2013 Volume 9, Issue 54

Editor-In-Chief Senior Editors Art Director Graphic Designer Copy Editor, Proofreader Sharon Hambrick Contributing Consultants/ Craftsmen/Project Designers Chuck Hedlund, Arnold Johnston, Larry Osborn, Bill Sands, Pete Stephano, Alan Turner Shop Manager Shawn Staats Jim Harrold Paul Anthony Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk Chad McClung Shayne Hiles
Publisher Advertising Sales Manager Advertising/ Circulation Support Circulation Circulation Specialists, Inc.
Jody Garrett Vic Lombard Miranda Springer
Subscriptions U.S. and Canada, $19.97 for one year Single copy, $5.99 customer_service@woodcraftmagazine.com (800) 542-9125 Contact Us Woodcraft Magazine 4420 Emerson Avenue, Suite A P.O. Box 7020 Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020 1-800-542-9125 Fax: (304) 420-9840 Email: editor@woodcraftmagazine.com Online: woodcraftmagazine.com Woodcraft Magazine (ISSN:1553.2461, USPS 024-953) is published in January, March, May, July, September and November and printed in the United States by Woodcraft Supply, LLC, 4420 Emerson Ave., Suite A, Parkersburg, WV 26104. Tel: (304) 485-2647. Periodical Postage paid at Parkersburg, WV, and at additional mailing offices. Copyright 2013 by Woodcraft Supply, LLC. All rights reserved. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Woodcraft Magazine, P.O. Box 7020, Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020. Canada Post: Publications Mail Agreement #40612608 Canada Returns to be sent to Pitney Bowes, P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2 Printed in the USA Safety First! Working wood can be dangerous. Always make shop safety your first priority by reading and following the recommendations of your owners manuals, using appropriate guards and safety devices, and maintaining all your tools properly. Use adequate sight and hearing protection. Please note that for purposes of illustrative clarity, guards and other safety devices may be removed from tools shown in photographs and illustrations in this publication and others.
8
I I
MUST-HAVE
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Mailbox WorldMags.net
True colors shine in the shop
I built this router table for my son Jeff, a huge WVU (West Virginia University) fan, who now resides in Texas. The plan came from Woodcraft Magazine. As you can see, I painted the table with the schools colors. Beside me in the photo are my son and grandson Austen, three generations of WVU fans. My wife and I lived in Parkersburg, West Virginia, where we raised our family and worked in the education system for 35 years. Recently, we moved to Oklahoma to be near the grandchildren. The plans were great, and Jeff loves his new shop addition. Wayne Meiser, Piedmont, Oklahoma Wayne, adding school colors to your sons router table is a great way to remember your roots and all the good family times cheering on the Mountaineers. Nice touch. The table is one of our finest shop projects and is still available through woodcraftmagazine.com . Jim Harrold, editor-in-chief
Salvaged treasure
Gold rush
Woodcraft and Woodcraft Magazine are sponsoring a mega sweepstakes, offering you a chance to win the grand prize of over $15,000 in Powermatic tools. Thats a shop full of hardworking, high-quality machines! The tools include an 8" jointer, 14" bandsaw, floor-model drill press, 15" planer, 10" cabinetstyle tablesaw, full-sized lathe, turbo-cone dust collector, and more. Three second place prizes include $250 Woodcraft gift cards plus two-year Woodcraft Magazine subscriptions. Fifty third prize winners will receive a one-year subscription to Woodcraft Magazine. To enter, see the ad on page 7. Woodcraft Magazine staff
I just completed the Arts and Crafts table lamp from your Apr/May 2013 issue. I used some quartersawn and riftsawn Siberian elm that a friend and I milled from a tree that was destined for the landfill. Thanks for the quick, complete, and straightforward project. As a bonus, theres enough mica in the 18 36" sheet for a second lamp. Charles Bechtel, Ridgecrest, California Charles, purist builders of Arts and Crafts pieces typically employ quartersawn white oak. However, your choice of salvaged Siberian elm shows that the style can look great in other woods as well. Woodcraft product
development manager Ben Bice is making a pair of the lamps out of cherry. Like your piece, his lamps also look impressive. Jim Harrold, editor-in-chief
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PEN MAKING
Accessories
TruFit vs. Standard Shown With Brass Tubes Inserted
Get The Right Fit
MADE IN USA
TAKE OUR CHALLENGE...

STEP 1: Use a caliper to measure the outside diameter of your brass tube. STEP 2: Measure the outside diameter of your current drill bit. STEP 3: Compare to a Whiteside TruFit Drill Bit.
ULTIMATE
Trim Bits
The ULTIMATE Trim series brings industrial engineered bits, previously manufactured for CNC machines, right into your shop.
Whiteside Pen Makers Bits - 154023 - 154031

Designed Specifically For Woodcraft Kits Tip Designed To Allow For Better Alignment And Clean Exit Hole 1,000-1,250 RPM Continuous Feed For Optimum Performance Provides Better Fit/Adhesion Between Brass And Blank Made In The USA From Premium M2 High-Speed Steel
154023 154024 154025 154026 154027
7mm (.272") 10mm & 25/64" (.389") 10.5mm & 27/64" (.412") 12.5mm (.488") 3/ " (.372") 8
154028 15/32" (.457") 154029 31/64" (.476") 154030 33/64" (.516") 154031 letter O (.314")
Whiteside Pro Pen Mandrel #2MT - 157776

New Design Allows for Fast & Easy Mandrel Adjustment Fits #2 Morse Taper And Promotes A Better Lock To Lathe 4-Piece Design Includes Chuck, Collet Nut, Mandrel And Brass Nut Available At Woodcraft! For A Free Catalog Or To Find Your Local Woodcraft Store, Visit woodcraft.com Or Call 800-225-1153. (A) (B) (C)
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154275 (A) Flush Trim 154276 (B) Pattern/Plunge 154274 (C) Combination
Hot New Tools WorldMags.net

A block with legs
When feeding stock on the tablesaw or router table, I find that rubber-soled pushblocks have the advantage mid-board while notched pushsticks have the edge when feeding the last
MICRO JIG GRR-RIP Block Model GR-1

few inches of stock past the blade or bit. So I typically use both. However, stopping near the end of the cut to switch pushers can be dicey, and sometimes makes for a less-than-perfect cut. By adding flip-up feet to their latest pushblock, Micro-Jig has combined the best of both worlds. Like a standard pushblock, the rubberized pad holds your stock firmly against the table while providing enough friction to push it forward, all the while keeping your digits at a safe distance from the blade. At the end of the cut, the feet drop down to hook the end of the board for secure, positive purchase during the last bit of crucial travel past the blade. The block costs more than a typical commercial pushblock, but if it helps keep fingers safely away from blades and bits at all stages of the cut, its easy to see how quickly it can earn its keep. #856321 $29.99 Tester: Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
Featured products available from Woodcraft Supply unless otherwise noted.
Photo: Brian Francis
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It was difficult to walk away from the security of long-term jobs. But, we wanted to challenge ourselves, and this was a great fit.
Say hello to Bill experienced woodworker, savvy entrepreneur and all around good guy. For Bill, the dream of owning a Woodcraft store started with his desire to challenge himself and break out of the routine world he knew as a paper company executive for 18 years. Thats why when he saw a franchise opportunity ad for Woodcraft, one of the most trusted names in woodworking, he and his wife Heather both knew it would be the perfect fit. No wonder. From site location and demographic research, to a detailed training program and ongoing technical support, Woodcraft provides in-depth franchise models to assist the franchise owners in meeting their goals. All the while being backed by the power of the most recognized brand in the industry. If you sat down and talked with him, Bill would tell you that thanks to Woodcraft and a lot of hard work, hes well on his way to living his dream. Which makes you stop and think, when are you going to start living yours?
FOR FRANCHISE INFORMATION, CALL
1.855.923.7326
www.woodcraftfranchise.com
P.O. Box 245, Parkersburg, WV 26102
Bill Caillet
Woodcraft Store Owner Norfolk, VA
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Hot New Tools WorldMags.net

Penned to perfection
Although it costs a few dollars more than the competition, Whitesides Pro Pen Mandrel makes all the difference when turning pens. By incorporating the same technology used to hold cutterheads in CNC machines, the precision machined taper on the mandrel ensures a better fit in the lathe headstock. This, along with the mandrels overall quality of manufacture, guarantees vibration-free operation. In addition, the redesigned mandrel makes it easier to
Whiteside Pro Pen Mandrels
adjust the shaft length for turning everything from key chains to pens without the need for spacers. To make the adjustment, simply loosen the collet nut, slide the shaft to the desired length, and retighten.
The set includes a 1 4" collet, collet nut, mandrel shaft, and brass knurled nut. #1 MT, 157777, $39.99 #2 MT, 157776, $39.99 Tester: Ben Bice
Featured products available from Woodcraft Supply unless otherwise noted.
Photo: Bob Etter
WorldMags.net Square Up Your Projects

F a s t e r T h a n E v e r
New From
The New Woodpeckers Box Clamp is just the ticket for your cabinet and box making projects. This simple tool eliminates the hassle of cumbersome bar clamps and eliminates the need to continuously make adjustments to square the corners. Imagine being able to dry-fit all parts at the same time without any clamps to interfere with the assembly process. Youll know right from the start if your project is square and be able to confirm part placement and dimensions. Even better, you can to do all that without a second set of hands. Once your project is glued and clamped, you can easily install pocket screws from the inside or any other fasteners from the outside. Both parts will be square and secure from unwanted movement. Woodpeckers Box Clamps are designed for most 90 degree joints including pocket hole joints, lap joints, dado as well as T-joints. Virtually any joint found in common cabinetry. The new Box Clamp is also perfect for box joints, half-blind and through dovetail joints. Whether the corner is flush or has material extending from the surface, the clearance is there to ensure a square corner. When you need square corners, you cant beat the Woodpeckers Box Clamp.
Made in U.S.A.
See our full line of American made woodworking tools at your local Woodcraft store.
11050 Industrial First Ave. North Royalton, Ohio 44133 (800) 752-0725
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TOP TIP Bottomless tablesaw crosscut jig
Tips & Tricks WorldMags.net

Glue and clamp fence to base. Hanger hole
Fence 2 334 31" Steel runner 8 34 24"
This handy jigwhich is basically an oversized miter gauge with a large fence and double runners for better workpiece bearing and stabilitylets you crosscut large workpieces with accuracy and ease. Its advantage over a traditional crosscut sled is the ability to make a full-depth cut, as theres no bottom sled panel raising the workpiece. The plywood base keeps the fence dead-straight and serves as a solid connection for the runners while allowing adjustment if necessary to square up the fence. The tapered ends of the fence allow better hand access for holding down narrow work. Use quartersawn hard maple or other straight-grained hardwood for the fence, and 3 4"-thick hardwood plywood for the base, stacking pieces at the center to serve as a blade cover. Drill the attachment holes through the steel bar stock (available at www. mcmaster.com and other metal suppliers) with a #7 bit before
Plywood base 3 4 5 24" Stacked plywood serves as blade cover. Counterbore for machine screw head and washer Hex-head cap screw 14-20 1" Tap for 14-20 threads.
cutting the threads with a 1 4 -20 tap. Trim the leading edge of the base flush and square, and then glue the fence to it. With the runners in their slots, measure the precise distances between the hole center points, and transfer those locations onto the base. Drill 516"-diameter holes at those points, also counterboring to recess for 1 4 -20 1" hex-head cap screws and washers. Loosely attach the runners with the cap screws and washers, square the fence to the fully raised blade, and then tighten the screws. Make a test cut, and readjust if necessary. When correct, youll get perfectly square crosscuts every time. Andy Rae, Asheville, North Carolina
Workpiece
BIG GATOR TOOLS
Share a Slick Tip. Win Cash or a Prize!
Heres your chance to help someone become a better woodworker and get rewarded for the effort. Next issues Top Tip will receive a Woodcraft Gift Card worth $250. Runners-up will receive $125 for an illustrated tip; $75 for a non-illustrated one. Winning entries become the property of Woodcraft Magazine. Send your original ideas to: Tips & Tricks, Woodcraft Magazine, P.O. Box 7020, Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020 or email editor@woodcraftmagazine.com. Important: Please include your phone number, as an editor will need to call you if your trick is considered for publication.
V-DrillGuides
Drill Straight Every Time!
Can be used on at surfaces, round parts and corners.
www.BigGatorTools.com
913-377-2444
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Attach handle for safe feeding. Zero-clearance base prevents wedges from falling into throat opening.
Seat wedge stock in notch to make cut.
Grain direction
Automaxx Clamps adjust automatically to match any thickness Just set the clamping pressure once, and Automaxxdoes the rest!
You set the clamping pressure

The clamp adjusts to any thickness
Wedge cutting jig

When making wedged through mortise-andtenon joints, I need the wedges to be spot-on, and I often require lots of them. To quickly and accurately bandsaw multiple wedges, I use a thick block of wood with wedge-shaped notches cut into its side. To make a jig like this, begin with a squared chunk of 8/4 or 12/4 scrap about 7" wide by 9" long, adding a handle for safety. Notch the edge to match the angle of your desired wedge. (My jig includes 3, 4, and 5 notches.) To make your wedges, first prepare your wedge blank by thicknessing a board to the desired width of your wedges. Then crosscut away a piece that equals the desired length of the wedges. Next, offset the bandsaw fence from the blade a distance equal to the width of the jig. Nestle the end of the wedge blank in the notch, and then slice off a wedge. Test-fit it in your joint, readjusting the fence if necessary to adjust the thickness of the wedge to create a sharper or blunter point. When your fence is set properly, cut a few inches into a piece of plywood, and clamp or tape it to the table surrounding the blade as a zero-clearance base. Now cut a wedge as before. Then rotate the stock 180 and reinsert the same end in the notch to make the next cut. Repeat to make all subsequent wedges. Alan Turner, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Illustrations: Chris Glowacki
Available in Face Clamp and Bench Klamp styles. Visit www.kregtool.com to see them in action.
The American Woodshop

with Scott & Suzy Phillips
Season 20 Home Restorations

Home and Away Green Energy Solutions
Presented by - WBGU Public Television
WBGU Public Television presents 13 PBS TV shows of The American Woodshop Home Restorations. Season 20 Re-creates restored furniture accents for every home. See the innovations that Rebuild, Recycle and Renew beautiful spaces!!!! Get your Tools Out!!! Join Scott & Suzy to get the most out of your woodshop tools! See new tools, glues & finishes in action.
wbgu.org/americanwoodshop
Woodcraft Supply, Delta Power Equipment, Kreg Tool Company, Gorilla Glue & Easy Wood Tools
2013 Sylvan Tool Works, Inc. All Rights Reserved
The American Woodshop Is Underwritten By:
WorldMags.net Aug/Sept 2013
woodcraftmagazine.com 15
Tips & Tricks WorldMags.net

Inflate glove with compressed air to remove it without tearing or inverting it. Edging
Taking off the gloves without a fight

When hand-applying finishes, I often wear disposable gloves. Unfortunately, removing them usually resulted in tearing or inverting them, making their reuse impractical. One day it dawned on me that compressed air might help me get more life from lightly-used pairs. I slipped the air nozzle in at the wrist and pulled the trigger. Sure enough, I was then able to easily slip my hand out of the inflated glove without damaging it or turning it inside out. Dennis Beadles, Mount Juliet, Tennessee
Squeeze opposing wedges together under clamp bar to apply clamping pressure to workpiece edge.
Improvised edge clamp

I needed to glue a piece of edging to a panel where it would have been awkward to span the panels surface with long bar or pipe clamps. Then I remembered a trick a friend showed me a long time ago. I secured a couple F-style clamps to the panel as shown, and slipped opposing wedges between the clamp bar and the edging to apply clamping pressure. Alan Wahlburg, Knoxville, Tennessee
COMPLETE THE JOB WITH THE POWER OF FORCE
1.1 AMP ROTARY TOOL KIT

Spindle Lock Quick-Change For Different Accessories Outer Carbon Brush Extended Lifetime Variable Speed Professional-Looking Cuts & Finish
ROTARY TOOL KIT 158538
2.2 AMP MULTI-PURPOSE TOOL

Variable Speed Optimized For Different Materials Over Mould Comfort Grip Increased Control And Handling Dust Tube Cleaner Work Area
MULTI-PURPOSE TOOL - 158539
7.5 AMP ANGLE GRINDER

Spindle Lock Quick & Easy Disc Changes Side Handle More Control, Better Handling Soft Grip For Better Comfort
ANGLE GRINDER 158540
Local Woodcraft Store, Visit www.woodcraft.com Or Call 800-225-1153.
Available at Woodcraft! For A Free Catalog Or To Find Your
3939 Royal Dr., Kennesaw, GA 30144 T 1-866-902-9690
W W W. F O R C E T O O L S U S A . C O M
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New product
Solid Body Fit Thread Sizes: 1- 8, 1 1/4 - 8, and M33 - 3.5
Other Easy Chuck exclusives:
S LT
Snap-Lock
Hardened jaws and jaw slides will last for generations Rounded jaw corners for safety that will not cut your knuckles Jaws are not numbered They can go in any slot Strong jaw design uses no screws for
Change out jaw sets in under 30 seconds and get right to your next project
Quickly adjust the gripping diameter with just your fingertips!

Then final tighten with included chuck key
mounting
See videos at www.woodturning.com
| 1-866-963-0294
woodcraftmagazine.com
17
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The Fine Art Of Japanese Joinery Begins With Excellent Tools
Japan Woodworker offers the carefully designed and crafted tools required for the functional yet very beautiful art of Japanese joinery saws, planes, measuring and marking instruments, chisels and more all made of the highest quality steels and other materials to complement the woodworking artisans skills. Visit JapanWoodworker.com to see our selection or call 1-800-537-7820 to receive a catalog.
For more great tools visit www.japanwoodworker.com or call 1-800-537-7820. 13WD09P4
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The Two-Wall Workshop

Transform a garage or basement with this smorgasbord of ideas and projects.
By Jim Harrold
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28
20
Ready-to-Assemble Cabinets Save Time and Money
24
Nonslip Epoxy Paint Surface for $600
These made-to-order cabinets by Cabinotch let you build a wall of storage in a weekend or less. Just add doors and drawers.
Prep the concrete, mix and roll out the epoxy paint, and seal the surface in three days for a hardwearing, attractive shop floor.
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48
Sturdy, Compact Workbench
65
Versatile Power Tool Tower
Two vises, dog holes, a solid base, and cabinet storage make this a workshop workhorse. Save time by going with a store-bought laminated top.
Customize this wheeled cabinet to your arsenal of portable tools by adjusting the shelves up or down as needed.
58
Back-Saving Planer Cart with Storage
Give your benchtop planer a permanent home, and avoid the heavy lifting and carrying of the machine with this two-drawer mobile unit.
38
Mobile Mitersaw Stand with Built-in Dust Collection
This shop-smart cabinet features work support wings, fences with stops, and multiple adjustments for super accurate cutting.
Photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert
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21
Figure 1: Wiring and Lighting Plan
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Radiant space heater (30" long) 6' 26" 4' 1' 100 amp sub panel 200 amp house service panel
House storage shelves Attached house
2-bulb (60w) T-8 fixtures Smoke and fire alarm
Existing light switch
16'-wide garage door
8'-wide garage door New 110V duplex receptacles, switches, and lights
Note: All wall receptacles are 48" above floor.
220V single receptacle
Existing 110V duplex receptacles, switches, and lights
elcome to Woodcraft Magazines third workshopthemed issue. Like the previous ones, we packed our featured Two-Wall Workshop issue with a multitude of adaptable ideas, projects, and products to help you improve the shop space you already have or create a whole new shop from scratch. Youll find that many of the ideas will save you time, money, or, in some cases, space. Theyll also help you get organized and get your shop up and running in short order, The concept behind the twowall workshop is that every woodworker hasif not a whole roomat least two walls in a garage, basement, or other area that he or she can claim as shop space. As shown on pages 20 and 21, weve dedicated a 25'-long wall at the back of a garage for shop storage and to provide valuable counter space.
Prominent here are the ready-toassemble Cabinotch cabinets that you literally build in minutes, and the heavy-duty Duraboard polypropylene pegboard system, complete with hooks, specialized hangers, and bins. The adjoining second wall serves as the place to store lumber and park mobilized machines when not in use. It's here, for instance, where you can store your tablesaw, mobile dust-collector, and bandsaw. Providing a sure grip underfoot, even when coated with fine sawdust, is the nonslip epoxy floor paint (on concrete) by Rust-Oleum. Decorative color chips in blue, black, and white add interest and texture to the surface, while a special sealer offers long-term protection. Assuming that most of the woodworking will take place in the back half of the garage, we
ramped up both the electrical and lighting output in that area, as shown in Figure 1. To do this, we had a certified electrician install a 100-amp subpanel, three 220V single receptacles, five 110V duplex receptacles, and five 2-bulb fluorescent ceiling fixtures that mimic natural daylight. These improvements are on top of the existing 110V wall outlets and two fluorescent ceiling fixtures. To further improve the space, our senior editors and two talented freelancers designed and constructed four all-star shop projects to fill a variety of common needs. They include a mobile mitersaw stand, compact workbench, planer cart, and power tool tower. Finally, for further assistance, check out the Dream Shop Planner (pullout insert) and Shop Setup Products (page 34). n
Illustration: Charles Lockhart
Youve read the story.
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Now try it for yourself!

The Cabinotch custom cabinet box system. American-made, formaldehyde-free, customsized, with nine hardwood species options.
Exclusive patent-pending assembly notch creates a strong, flush joint that slides together fast!
The custom cabinet box system thats engineered for speed, style and performance!
Visit www.cabinotch.us/woodcraft today and claim your special limited time discount code!
CFP018_Woodcraft_Ad(3.125x4.625).indd 1
6/13/13 3:46 PM
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Epoxy Paint Shop Floor

Achieve a showroom-quality surface in just three days.
By Gary Lombard with Jim Harrold Consultants: Rust-Oleum
hether in a garage (shown here), basement, or dedicated outbuilding, concrete floors for home shops are the norm, far exceeding the number of wood floors. And while concrete provides a flat surface on which to roll mobilized tools, it can absorb drips and spills from motor oil, woodworking stains, and other liquids. Another problem: Smoothly troweled or sealed concrete can prove slippery when coated with fine sawdust. Beyond that, its look is not all that great. To remedy these issues, consider laying down an attractive twopart epoxy paint and sealer on your concrete that lets you easily wipe up spills, sweep up dust, and provide a sure grip underfoot. Plus, when you do the installation yourself, big savings are in store.
To properly follow through on the prep and installation for the featured workshop in this issue, I and Jim Harrold teamed up with the experts at Rust-Oleum to lay down a tough two-part epoxy paint (EPOXYSHIELD Professional Floor Coating Kit) and sealer (EPOXYSHIELD Premium Clear Floor Coating Kit), capturing the steps from beginning to end.
Tools for the Job
The resulting showroom-quality surface promises a lifetime of wear-resistant good looks. In all, the work took one full day for prepping, two-thirds of a day for painting and adding the decorative color chips (for a terrazzo-like appearance), and two hours on the third day for rolling out a sealer containing a nonslip additive. Full cure takes at least three more days.
From prepping to painting to final sealing, laying down a two-part epoxy paint and sealer on a concrete shop floor requires a few common tools. These include a good scrub brush, five-gallon bucket, plastic watering can, floor squeegee, chemical/liquid-resistant latex or rubber gloves, eye protection, paint-mixer attachment for a cordless drill, roller pan, pan liners, an epoxy-safe 12"-nap paint roller, roller extension handle, and a 3" utility nylon paintbrush.
Test the WorldMags.net concrete

Before buying a two-part epoxy floor paint kit, analyze the condition of your concrete to see if it meets the requirements and to determine the prep work approach. Moisture in the slab, a previously applied sealer, a poorly bonded painted surface, poorly cured spalling concrete, and oil stains all pose adhesion problems for epoxy paint. Some can be fixed; some cant. Lets deal with these one at a time.
A
Remove the plastic sheeting to see if water beads cling to the bottom face, or if a dark shadow appears in the concreteboth telltale signs.
B
Pour water onto the concrete to see if it is absorbed or if it sits or beads on the surface. If the water sits, the concrete is sealed. dust. (One patch product is RustOleums EPOXYSHIELD Concrete Patch and Repair Kit.) This twopart epoxy-based patch dries fast, resulting in an extremely hard surface. If surface erosion resulting in excess concrete dust and spalling persistseven after cleaningdo not paint the floor.
Moisture
Certainly, if the concrete contains moisture, you shouldnt paint it. To test for moisture, tape a 3 3' piece of 1 mil plastic sheeting to the floor and let it sit for 24 hours. Then peel it up, as shown in Photo A .
the slab has been allowed to cure for a minimum of 28 days before coating.)
Painted slab
Sealed surface
To see if the concrete is sealed, conduct the test in Photo B. If the test proves positive, grind the surface to remove the sealer.
Unsealed surface
To test the adhesion of an existing paint slab, incise a small X on the surface, and stick a piece of duct tape over it. Pull off the tape to see if some paint came with it. If so, the bond is suspect, and the floor will need surface-grinding to remove the paint. If the paint does not come offmeaning it is well bondedscuff-sand and clean the surface to prep it.
Oil stains
If the concrete proves unsealed, chemically etch the surface to clean it. (With newly poured dry concrete, skip the grinding and etching steps, provided
Poorly cured or damaged concrete
Day 1: Prep the surface
For poorly cured or loose concrete, repair the surface with a concrete patch product, and clean it thoroughly to remove the cracks, or chipped areas with a nonflexible concrete patching product (found at home centers). For oil stains, scrub the surface, as shown in Photo C . After, use the same scrubbing approach to etch an unsealed floor. To etch an unsealed floor, mix up a solution of one part phosphoric acid to four parts water in a plastic watering can.
Motor oil drips and stains from autos, lawn mowers, or other sources create areas on a concrete floor that resist adhesion. Dispense with the problem as explained under Day 1: Prep the Surface.
Once you have established that the floor is a candidate, follow through with the appropriate strategy, keeping in mind that preparation is critical to a well-bonded epoxy paint job. With an existing (versus new) concrete floor, patch any holes,
C
Using EPOXYSHIELD Heavy-Duty Degreaser, scrub stained areas with a stiff bristled brush. Rinse clean.
Opener: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Project photos: Staff
WorldMags.net
D
Grind the sealed floor along the walls with an industrial-grade orbital sander and 60-grit discs. Pre-wet the floor, and then, working from back to front, scrub the entire surface in manageable 10 10' sections. It should fizz slightly from the chemical reaction. When the fizzing stops, rinse the surface clean. Rinse and scrub the floor three times to achieve the cleanest possible surface, one that is free of all
E
Abrade the open floor with the floor grinder, working in one direction; then cross-grind at 90.
Day 2: Mix and apply the epoxy paint

Ensure that the workspace is properly ventilated and that the room temperature is between 55 and 90 F. Turn off pilot lights to any nearby hot water heater, furnace, or other source of ignition. Pour part B into a five-gallon bucket, and then pour in part A, blending the parts as shown in Photo F. A two-gallon mix lets you do a 300-square-foot space or about a one-car garage. On larger floors, mix larger quantities of the A parts and B parts separately, and then mix equal amounts of the parts together when you are ready to continue covering the floor. This guarantees that the color remains consistent across the floor. After mixing,
dirt and contaminants. For best results, use a foam or rubber floor squeegee to remove the rinse water from the surface. Let it thoroughly dry for 24 hours. Be sure to wear eye protection and gloves when prepping and cleaning the floor with chemicals. To prep a sealed floor, sand the surface with an industrial orbital
disc sander and a floor grinder having 60-grit abrasive stones. Rent these for about $100, and use them as shown in Photos D and E . Wear a dust mask and hearing protection, and use a shop vacuum to gather floor dust. Open all doors and windows, and use fans to exhaust dust-filled air to the outside. Vacuum the floor several times for the cleanest possible surface, and wash it. Because constant daily sunlight will cause a two-part epoxy coating to yellow and degrade, plan the floor coating to align with the inside edge of the garage door. To do this, mark and lay down strips of duct tape along the line to establish the border between the driveway and garage/shop floor. Note that if you leave the garage door open and regularly expose the floor to sunlight, the epoxy coating will become damaged over time.
F
Mix the two parts of the epoxy paint for 3 to 5 minutes using a paint-mixer accessory (found at home centers) and a cordless drill.
allow the ingredients to sit for 30 minutes in order for them to chemically combine. Ideally, coating the floor with epoxy paint and chips is a twoperson jobone to cut in along the walls and broadcast the chips and one to roll out the floor. Dont expect to take a break. Following the 30- to 60-minute induction process, depending on the air temperature (see instruction sheet for more information), you have just 90 minutes to apply the mix. Begin painting by cutting in 4' along the corner walls, as shown in Photo G. Next, roll out a 4 4' section in the same area, as shown in Photo H, working toward a door opening as an exit strategy.
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G
Use a brush to cut in 4"-5" from the wall in 4'-long bands while working out of a small paint pot. Before moving to the next section, toss the decorative color chips up and away from you so they land flat on the wet paint film. You want the chips to be distributed evenly onto
H
Roll out the floor in a manageable 4 4' patch with a solventresistant paint roller having a 12" nap and plastic core. the painted surface, as shown in Photo I. Determine the level of chip coverage for the look you want ( Photo I Inset). Repeat until youve painted the entire floor and dispersed the chips. Before sealing the painted floor, mix in the slip-resistant ingredient (EPOXYSHIELD AntiSkid Additive) into the sealer (EPOXYSHIELD Premium Clear
I
Broadcast chips by the handful over the painted area with an underhand motion, letting them float down and blend in evenly. Let the floor cure for 24 hours. Be careful to contain chips in each painted section as you work so you dont get any on the roller or unpainted surface. Floor Coating). Now, as before, cut in with a brush and roll out the floor with the sealer, as shown in Photo J, following the precautions mentioned earlier. Let the sealer cure for at least 24 hours before walking on it. Do not drive on the surface for another three days to allow for a complete, undisturbed cure. n
Day 3: Roll on a slip-resistant sealer
Costs and Savings
J
Coat the two-part epoxy painted floor with a protective, slip-resistant sealer using a clean roller and working in manageable sections. Special thanks to Don Evans, Mike Ortiz, Robert Shoenberger, and Brendan Steidle at Rust-Oleum for serving as technical consultants during the floor installation. For more on the products featured here, visit rustoleum.com or call (888) 683-5667.
To paint and seal this garage floor, a 600-square-foot area, we used two EPOXYSHIELD Professional Floor Coating kits (four gallons total), three EPOXYSHIELD Premium Floor Coating Kits (as the sealer), a rented grinder and orbital sander, rollers, brushes, and miscellaneous materials for a do-it-yourself cost under $600. To have the floor professionally done would cost about $2,000.
Ready-To-Assemble Cabinets
Outfit your shop in a weekend or less.
By Gary Lombard with Jim Harrold
WorldMags.net
hile creating a two-wall or larger shop (or a kitchen, for that matter) with a variety of storage cabinets that you design and make seems daunting and time-consuming, it doesnt have to be. What if you could address your shops storage needs in a few short days? Enter Cabinotch, a cabinet box system consisting of made-to-order base and wall cabinet parts that you assemble in minutes with glue and a nail gun. Better still, you can order just the cabinets you need in any size, configuration (door and drawer openings), and from several wood choices. For this issues featured workshop, maple plywood box parts and maple hardwood face frames were used. While the cabinetsonce constructedinclude a UV finished interior, drilled holes for supporting shelves, and edged and finished shelves, its up to you to construct and add the doors and drawers and finish the exterior. The end result: big-time savings in both time and money, while allowing you to assemble and hang a shop full of quality cabinets in a weekend or less. I learned firsthand just how easy it is to build and hang attractive, strong, and perfectly square shop cabinets in my shop when I used the Cabinotch system and its builder-friendly joinery. Over the next few pages, Ill share with you how I did it.
Note: To view your cabinet options or to order cabinets like the ones shown here, go to cabinotch.com or call (877) 413-4299. At the website check out the videos about the Cabinotch system construction.
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Note: Here is what youll need for a guaranteed hitch-free assembly and installation: a flat assembly surface such as a floor or assembly table, woodworkers glue, moistened rag and clean water to deal with squeeze-out, rubber mallet, four bar clamps, square, compressor, 18-gauge brad nail gun with 114"-long brads, cordless drill and square drive bit, #8 3" screws, measuring tape, stud finder, and level. Lay out the cabinet parts on a flat assembly surface with the sides alongside the face frame. Now, apply a moderate bead of glue in the face-frame grooves. Stop short about 6" from the end of the groove. The excess glue on the leading edge of the sliding side should spread to this area. Next, slide in the sides, as shown in Photo A and Photo A Inset . Wipe up any squeeze-out with a rag moistened in clean water. Apply glue in the mating grooves, and slide in the bottom and top, as shown in Photo B. Apply glue and fit the back in the side rabbets. Then, using an 18-gauge nail gun, shoot the back in place with 114" brads, as shown in Photo C . (I measured in to locate the centers of the back edges of the cabinets top and bottom and struck a guideline to ensure that the nails hit pay dirt.) With base cabinets, glue and nail the cabinet screw cleats in the side top rabbets for attaching a countertop.
Super-fast assembly
A With the face frame clamped to prevent movement, slide in the interlocking sides, ensuring that the ends are flush top and bottom.
B Align and slide the cabinet top and bottom in the mating grooves, using a mallet to gently tap and seat the parts as needed.
B Use clamps to snug the sides to the back and check for square. Then, nail the back in place, holding the gun perpendicular to the mating plywood edges.
Opening photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Project photos: Morehead Photography
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D Using a coping sled to hold the workpiece firmly in place, cut or cope the end of the test rail, keeping it in contact with the router fence and/or the bit bearing.
E With a featherboard hold-down in place, profile the inside edges of the rails and stiles, using a shoe-style pushstick to safely make the cut.
Figure 1: Frame & Panel Overlay Door Exploded View
Adding doors and drawers

to 34" thick for the door frames and the drawer fronts for the assembled cabinets. Mill extra stock for test pieces to set up the rail and stile router bits. Next, rip the rail and stile door stock to 112" wide. The goal is to create door frames that overlay the cabinet face-frame openings by 12" all around. On a 13 29" face-frame opening, for instance, youll want a 14 30" door frame. At this point, plan all of your door sizes and the number needed. Crosscut the rails to length. If using a rail-and-stile bit set as suggested here, take the inside opening measurement from stile to stile of the planned door and add the depths of both opposing grooves. That dimension will give you the rail length, including the interlocking coped ends. Next, crosscut the needed number of stiles to length, plus 1". Crosscut a few router setup test pieces. Install the coping bit of a rail-and-stile bit set in a tablemounted router, and adjust its
1 Mill enough hardwood stock
3"
112"
Note: Size door to overlay face-frame opening by 12" all around. Locate hinges 3" in from top and bottom edges of door frame. Stile
Rail
Make shoulder and groove offset the same height.
height to cut the coped ends of the door rails. (Because I used a coping sled for safety and workpiece control, I needed to raise the bit to account for the thickness of the coping sled base.) Next, use the edge of a rule to adjust the infeed and outfeed fences to be perfectly in line with the bits bearing. Finally, using a coping sled, make a cut in one pass on the end of a test rail piece, running it past the cutter outside face down, as shown in Photo D. Note the rail-and-stile end views and bits in Figure 1 for reference. Adjust the bit up or down as needed to match the profile. Once satisfied, rout the ends of the door rails with the outside or best faces down. Switch to the stick bit in your router table and, placing a test stile piece outside face down against the fence, cut the inside edge in one pass, using a shoestyle pushstick for safety and control, as shown in Photo E . Test-fit the piece against a rail. Adjust the bit height if needed. Now, rout the inside edges of both the rails and stiles. Make marks 12" in from the ends of the stiles indicating the total door length. Dry-fit the rails and stiles of a door frame, aligning the outside edges of the rails with the marks. (Later, in Step 8, Ill trim off the excess to achieve a perfectly square door with flush joints.) Now, measure the distance from the rail and stile groove bottom to opposing groove bottom. Subtract 18" in each direction from these length and width dimensions to determine the size of the door panels. From 1 4" plywood, cut a door panel to size and test-fit the door assembly. Cut any remaining door panels to size.
Figure 2: Crosscut Sled WorldMags.net

Step 1: Cut plywood base to size, ensuring the piece is square. Step 3: Angle fence with front edge of base and attach.
3
Fence 4" 78" length of base
Step 2: Cut runner to size; attach at 90 to front edge of base. Locate so end of base extends beyond blade by 1".
Base 1 2 14 21" (Final length determined after trimming end of base.)
90 #8 1" flathead screw
#6 12" flathead screw Final distance between runner and end of base determined when base is trimmed to length.
Step 4: Run sled through saw to establish a true cut-off edge.
Runner 4 34 30" (Adjust to the dimensions of your miter slot.)

1
F Align the outside edge of a door with the cut edge of the sled, and trim off the proud ends of the stiles one door corner at a time.
7 Make the panel sled in 8
Illustrations: Christopher Mills
Figure 2. To customize the sled to your saw, run it through the blade to establish a true edge. Glue and clamp the rails to the stiles with the panels in place, aligning the outside edges of the rails with the marks made earlier on the stiles. Check for square. Once the glue dries, trim the door ends using the panel sled, as shown in Photo F. To make the overlay drawers, see page 61. (I made the drawer
boxes 1" smaller than the width of the opening. I made the height of the drawer boxes 1 2" shorter than the height of the drawer openings. For the drawer depths, I used the lengths of the slide hardware.) Finish-sand the outside of the cabinets, face frames, and doors to 220 grit. Now, apply your choice of finish. (I sprayed on two coats of General Finishes Polyacrylic Water-Based Top Coat.)
10
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G With the cabinet held to the wall, drive the screws through the clearance holes and into the wall studs using a drill.
H With the cabinet face frames aligned top and bottom and flush, drill pilot holes, and then drive 212" screws through one face frame and into the other. a helper? Consider temporarily screwing a leveled ledger to the wall to support a cabinet while you screw it to the wall. To hang wall cabinets side by side, first hang one cabinet with screws. Then, clamp the next cabinet to the secured cabinet using cabinet clamps, as shown in Photo H. Check for plumb and the overall fit before securing it to the wall. You may need to shim the cabinets along the back to flush them along the front.
Installing the cabinets
Establish the height on the wall above the floor where you want to hang your wall cabinets. (I hung my cabinets 18" above the base cabinets.) Strike a level horizontal line on the wall at this location. Strike a plumb line that intersects with the horizontal line, indicating where you want the outside edge of the cabinet. Locate the wall studs in the area where you intend to hang the wall cabinet, using a stud
finder. Measure from the plumb line to the stud location, and use this distance to mark the stud locations on the inside face of the cabinet back. Drill clearance holes at these locations. Using a helper to hold the cabinet in place, drive #8 3" screws to secure it to the wall, as shown in Photo G. Doublecheck the cabinets position after driving the first screw. Adjust as needed, and then drive the remaining screws. Dont have
I With a helper holding a cabinet door and hinges in place while resting it on the spacer, drive the screws to secure the door.
J Level the base cabinets with shims wedged between the floor and the cabinets bottom edges, snapping off any excess.
doors 3" in from the top and bottom edges. Clamp a spacer to the lower rail 12" down from the face frame opening to support the door during installation. Rest the door on the spacer, and fit the hinges in place. With a 532" Vix bit, drill the pilot holes in the face frame edge, centering them in the hinge slots. Apply wax or bar soap to the screw threads to ease driving the screws, and secure the door to the cabinet, as shown in Photo I. (Also see the Tip Alert below.) Note that the slots allow you to adjust the doors up and down as needed. To install a base cabinet, level it from side to side and from front to back. Use shims, as shown in Photo J, to make any adjustments. Then screw the cabinet to the wall studs. Cut a toekick plate from 12" plywood, and nail it to the cabinet to cover any unsightly gaps between the cabinet and floor. Make or buy a countertop for the base cabinets. I sized the countertop and edging to allow for a 2" overhang along the front and ends for clamping. For my countertop, I started with two oversized panels of 3 4" MDF. I applied glue, clamped the panels together, and drove screws through the bottom panel and into the top panel for a full bond. I trimmed the countertop 5 to size and attached 3 4 1 8" edging strips of maple. (See Figure 3 for reference.) Put the top in place, and drive screws
to the Figure 3: Countertop Cutaway WorldMags.net 5 Add a pair of hinges
4" layers of MDF
4" maple edging
through the cabinets stretchers to secure it. (You may need to scribe and trim the back edge for an uneven wall.) Finally, seal the top with multiple coats of wax.
8 Insert the shelf pins
in the cabinets where desired, and install the 3 4"-thick edged shelves. n
Thank You!
A special thanks to our friends at Cabinotch Cabinet Box System for supplying the cabinets for this issues featured workshop.
Convenience-PLUS Buying Guide

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Whiteside Straight Stile and Rail Bit Set, 158" OD 78" CL, 12" SH (Optional) Woodpeckers Coping Sled General Finishes Polyacrylic Water-Based Top Coat, Satin, 1qt. Highpoint #8 3" Square-Drive Screws, 100/pkg. Highpoint #8 212" Square-Drive Screws, 100/pkg. Pony Cabinet Claws, 2/pkg.
1
#820246 #151148 #85T56 #611211 #611210 #128247 #130132 #130144 #27I11
$114.99 $139.99 $20.99 $11.89 $9.09 $87.99 $7.99 $4.99 $3.25
Tip Alert
Amerock Self-Closing Overlay Hinges, 2" Brass, 2/pkg. Amerock Pull, Brass Shelf Pins, 14" Brass Plt, 25/pkg.
When driving brass screws into a hardwood , consider prethreading a pilot hole for the brass screws using a steel screw.
Above items are available at Woodcraft stores, woodcraft.com or by calling (800) 225-1153. Prices subject to change without notice.
Shop Setup Products

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Make your space work smarter, better, with these 12 items.
By Jim Harrold
hile this issue offers lots to build in order to create a great home workshop, keep in mind that theres plenty you can buy to further the effort. Included in this variety pack of problem solvers are wall boards, containers, and racks
for specialized storage, tables and stands, and items aimed at improving the comfort level of your favorite getaway. Note that items with a SKU number can be purchased at Woodcraft stores, woodcraft.com, or by calling (800) 225-1153.
Durable Wall Storage
Triton Products Duraboard wall storage solution does flimsy hardboard pegboard one better with its strong 14"-thick polypropylene panels that can hold three times more weight. Waterproof and impact-resistant, the 2 4' panels can be sized at the tablesaw. To make outlet openings, use a drill to bore blade-start holes and a jigsaw to cut out the waste. Along with two panels, the kit includes panel-hanging hardware, a 48-piece assortment of hangers, and plastic bins.
Folding-Table Frame
This wall-mounted metal stand by WoodRiver comes in at workbench height (around 34") and includes adjustable feet for an uneven shop floor. Its ideal for providing instant counter space when using benchtop power
#412029 $149.99
tools or assembling small projects. After the works complete, simply fold the table against the wall and lock it in place. See the Online Extra below for a free 23 29" tabletop plan. #158253 $99.99
Online Extra
To make the table designed specifically for the folding table seen here, go to woodcraftmagazine.com and click on the Online Extras button to download the free plan.
WorldMags.net Wall-Mounted Lumber Rack

This rugged coated-steel system of standards and brackets attaches to the wall at stud locations using 3" bolts and washers (not included). The set comes with (3) 24" standards, (3) 55" standards, (3) 10" brackets, (3) 14" brackets, and (6) 18" brackets. Add to this the adjustment holes on 112" centers along the standards lengths, and you have a versatile lumber rack capable of supporting hundreds of pounds. #131189 $249.99
Ceramic Infrared Space Heater

Take the chill out of frosty winter days in the shop with this 1950W wall- or ceiling-mounted Comfort IR space heater. Sporting an almond steel housing, the ceramic infrared element can be hardwired to either a 120V or 240V circuit. Or, if you choose, you can attach an appropriate plug (not included) to the cord. When in use, the heater
Photos: Larry Hamel-Lambert
LED Task Light

Whether reading fine measurements or performing a detailed task, add concentrated light where you need it with this 16"-long LED dual-power shop light. Its focusing head provides 250 lumens while running off AAA batteries or a 110V outlet. Hold it in place with either its strong rare-earth magnet or a clamp. #154491 $49.99
can warm up a 12 12' area and costs approximately 19 to 20 cents per hour to run, according to the maker. Safe, quiet, and odorless, the space heater mounts easily with screws to either wall anchors or studs. Locate it above an oftenused area, such as a workbench for maximum effectiveness. #417562 $249.99
WorldMags.net A-Frame Clamp Rack

Tired of rummaging through the shop looking for the right set of clamps for an assembly job? That wont happen again with this place-for-everything mobile rack by HTC. Spring clamps, F-style bar clamps, K-body parallel jaw clamps, and pipe clamps can all find a home here. The steel crossbars located at intervals along the A-frame angle-iron rack allow you to organize the clamps in your collection based on their lengths. The overall size measures 30"w 24"d 53"h, making the rack a good fit for even a small shop. Its total weight capacity tops off at 500 pounds. Because of its four swiveling casters, it's easy to roll the rack away from the wall and park it alongside your assembly table or workbench for a glue-up. After the glue-up dries, remove the clamps, clean off the glue, and return them to the rack. To order the rack, go to htc.productsinc.com, or call HTC Products, Inc. at (800) 624-2027.
10-Drawer Tool Chest

As you expand your arsenal of fine hand tools, the need for protecting them in a suitable storage unit becomes more pressing with each new purchase. Of course, you can build a handsome chest like the one featured in the Feb/March 2013 issue of Woodcraft Magazine, but that takes time. The alternative: Buy a chest that serves the need. This 10-drawer model by Gerstner comes in red oak
and employs tongue-andgroove joinery throughout for strength and durability. Measuring 24"w 10"d 16 14"h, the chest features a front lid at the bottom that pulls out and covers the drawers when in its locked position. Green felt lines the upper case interior and drawer bottoms, offering a safe haven for prized items. #147378 $329.99
Hardware Organizers
Few things are more frustrating (and timeconsuming) for woodworkers than looking for the right screw, nail, or nut while sorting through old coffee cans and jars. Why not let these handy plastic organizers by Akro-Mils come to your rescue? The larger box features 44 drawers in two sizes (2" and 4" wide); the smaller box, 16 (2" wide) drawers. #154637 (large box) $32.50 #154638 (small box) $12.99
WorldMags.net At-the-Ready Router Table

When equipped with a router that you supply, this Kreg benchtop workhorse can be pressed into service in the few minutes it takes to install a bit and adjust the fence. Standing 19" high, the tables splayed 28"w 20"d steel base offers plenty of stability. Rubber feet grip the surface underneath to prevent slippage when in use. Other features include a flat 1 16 24" laminated MDF top with a standard miter gauge slot, and a three-ring phenolic insert plate. Resting on it is an adjustable extruded aluminum fence with locking cam clamps, adjustable sub-fences, a 212" dust port, and a bit guard. The TrueFlex featherboard is an extra purchase. #158284 $229.99 (table) #148436 $19.99 (featherboard)
Instant Workbench
This portable QuikBENCH folds up when you want to store it, and sets up in a jiffy when you need to work. Standing 32" high, the benchtop surface measures 24 30" and comes with some pretty neat features. They include tool and hardware wells, a two-crank vise, a pair of bench dogs, and dog holes letting you clamp workpieces in place for sanding or other tasks. While it is not designed to stand on, the QuikBENCH can hold up to 300 pounds. Buy two and use them as sawhorses. Or, better still, buy three or four and hook them together to create a large countertop for finishing or project assembly. Use the three-outlet power strip to plug in portable power tools. #154760 $129.99
Retro Shop Stool
The next time you need to rest your dogs, consider taking five on this cushioned shop stool. A throwback chrome base sets the style with rings that screw to the flared legs, providing a rigid structure and a place to park your feet. The stool measures 16"w 29"h and easily stores under a countertop. It supports up to 350 pounds.
Anti-Fatigue Floor mat
#154269 $69.99
Hard shop floors make tired feet cry for mercy. Give them relief with one or more of these 2 5' anti-fatigue PVC mats. #146033 $36.50
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Mobile Mitersaw Stand

Multiple features make this project a welcome shop addition.
By Chuck Hedlund
enefits abound with this shop-friendly workhorse. Designed for popular 10" and 12" compound mitersaws, the sturdy open plywood cabinet offers enough interior space for a shop vacuum and cutoff tub. Its 48"-high back and sides contain spraying sawdust, allowing for a cleaner work area. Its fixed shelf provides storage for a wrench,
measuring tape, and extra blade. To reduce the cabinets footprint when not in use, simply lower the drop-down wings and roll the stand against the wall. (Note, however, that at least one wing must be raised and locked in place for all but the shortest of cuts. See the inset photo, right.) For adjustability and precision cutting, use the hardware
components to easily level and fine-tune the saw shelf and wings and to align the fence with your saws fence. Theres even a hardware adjustment for an uneven shop floor. Finally, a pair of quick-lock fence stops lets you make repeatable cuts.
Figure 1: Mitersaw Stand Exploded View

3 3
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4" rabbet, 8" deep
#10 biscuit Note: Back top trim is flush with back edge. #8 3" flathead screw Four-arm knob with 112" stud
5
See detail on page 45.
16"-18 brass threaded insert

3
16" washer
4 1512" dado, 8" deep
114 114" aluminum angle 134" recess, 1 4" deep on underside
#8 112" flathead wood screw 112 10" piano hinge 112 32" piano hinge
Notch
3 3
4" rabbet, 8" deep

Heavy-duty lifting leveler
3 3" corner brackets

3 3
3" nonlocking, nonswiveling casters

5
4" rabbet, 8" deep
16 1 4" lag screws

1
3" double-locking, swiveling casters

1
Shelf-Adjustment Hardware Detail

2" nut
Side Trim Detail

Center biscuit in plywood.
1 1
2" 6" carriage bolt
4"
Side inside face
1
2" flat washer
Plywood Cutting Diagram
Photos: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Illustrations: Christopher Mills
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A With a block against the dado set, mark its location on the fence. Use the mark to locate the stop. For ease of handling, cut the right and left sides (A), back (B), bottom (C), fixed shelf (D), adjustable shelf (E), wing supports (G), and wings (H) slightly oversized, using a straightedge and circular saw with a plywood blade. To reduce waste and for grain orientation, refer to the Plywood Cutting Diagram on page 39. Now, at the tablesaw, cut the parts to finished overall size. (In later steps, youll trim the sides, fixed shelf, wing supports, and wings to final shape.) Install a dado set that is the same width as the plywoods thickness. Raise the blade to 3 8". Make a test dado in scrap plywood, and check its width using a mating plywood part; adjust the dado set width if needed. To make the stopped dado in the sides (A), where shown in Figure 1, cut the dado in both sides (A) on their opposing inside faces. To do this, make a reference mark on the saw fence where the blade starts to make contact with the piece to be cut. Ill call this point X.
B With a featherboard and guide rail to keep the shelf upright and snug to the fence, cut the notch up to the stop. Turn off the saw. From that mark measure back 1512", and place a stop on your saw fence at this location. Now, adjust the fence 163 4" from the blade. With the inside face of the right side (A) down, and with its top edge against the fence, move the part forward to make the dado cut, stopping at the stop. Turn off the saw and remove the part. Set the piece aside. Adjust the saw fence to 3014", and make the stopped dado on the inside face of the left side (A), placing the bottom end against the rip fence. Remove the stop, but do not change blade height; youll use it in the following steps. Clamp an auxiliary fence to your saw fence, and slide it over to the blade. Using the same dado set height, cut the rabbets, where shown in Figure 1, in the sides (A) and back (B). (Make a test cut on scrap to check the cut.) Leave the blade height and fence setting for the next step. To make the shoulder cuts on the fixed shelf (D), place a point X mark on your auxiliary fence as in Step 2 and Photo A . Clamp a stop 21 4" back from that mark. with the back corner of the shelf toward the blade and the shelfs face against the fence. Clamp a guide rail to the shelf so it rides on the fence top edge. This, along with the featherboard, allows for more control during the cut and keeps the shelf from tipping into the dado blade. Now make the notch cut, as shown in Photo B. Cut the notch at the other back corner the same way. Remove the auxiliary fence, and replace the dado set with a standard blade. Using a 18" round-over bit in a table-mounted router, round over the back edges of the shelves (D) and (E). (Doing this keeps the vacuum hose from getting hung up when adjusting the mitersaw cutting angle back and forth.) Rip a 1 4" strip of maple from 3 4" stock for the adjustable shelf edge (F). Cut it just over in length, and glue and clamp it to the front edge of adjustable shelf (E). When the glue has dried, sand it flush with the shelf and break the edges. Lay out the inside corners on the cabinets right and left sides
Cut the plywood parts
6 Stand the fixed shelf on one end
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C With the back edge of the side panel against the saw fence, move the side panel forward until you reach the stop. Turn off the saw. (A). Plan to use both sides of the tablesaw fence and table to cut out the corners, as well as a handsaw. With the blade raised 212", make blade entry reference point X marksthis time on both sides of the saw fence. (I raised the blade to this height to reduce the arc at the cuts end.) Now, place a stop 107 8" back from the mark on one fence side. Move the fence 1038" to the right of the blade for the cabinets right side. Now, with the inside face down, crosscut into the right side panel. After reaching the stop, turn off the saw and remove the part. Repeat for the left panel, working from the other side of the blade. 8" to the Adjust the fence 157 right of the blade, and relocate the stop to 1038" from point X. Now, ripcut the right side panel, as shown in Photo C with the inside face down. Note the waste piece will still be attached to the panel at the inside corner. Set the right panel aside. Lower the blade, and slide the fence to the left side of it. Repeat the blade height and measurements for setting the fence, and stop and ripcut the left side panel (A). the cuts in the corner, as shown in Photo D.
D With a side clamped to the bench and the waste piece clamped to the side, handsaw out the waste.
4"-thick spacer and adhere a 1 (I used 1 4" MDF) on the biscuit cutters fence with double-faced tape. (Doing this simplifies cutting the biscuit slots by having just one fence depth adjustment for two different cuts in the trim and plywoodflush and 1 4" offset.) On all plywood cuts use the attached spacer, as shown in Photo E . Use Figure 1 as a general guide for the number of biscuits per edge. Next, from 34"-thick maple, cut enough linear feet of 112"-
11 Using a handsaw, complete

Assemble the case and add the trim
1 On a flat surface, glue,
10
clamp, drill, and drive screws to assemble the cabinet plywood parts. I used a 964" countersinking bit for #8 112" flathead wood screws. Drill the holes 11" apart, keeping them at least 2" from the ends. Start by attaching the back (B) to the bottom (C). Then add the right side (A), followed by the left side (A). Next, apply glue and slide the notched fixed shelf (D) into the dadoes, keeping its front edge flush with the sides (A). Clamp and secure the shelf with screws. Sand the joints smooth. Mark the biscuit locations for #10 biscuits for all plywood cabinet parts receiving trim, and then cut the slots. Note that I offset the side trim pieces by 1 4" from the outside plywood faces. (See the Side Trim Detail in Figure 1.) Start by adjusting the biscuit cutter fence for slots centered 58" in depth. Next, cut
E With the cabinet on its side, outside face up, cut the biscuit slots in the plywood using the 14" spacer.
41
and 212"-wide trim material for the cabinet and wings (I, J, K, L), referencing the Cut List. Allow a little for waste. Starting with the long front edges of the sides (A), work your way up to the back, cutting miters on the trim pieces as you go. Mark the location for the biscuits from the plywood reference marks, and then cut the slots without the spacer. Glue and clamp the trim in place, making sure you maintain a 14" overhang on the sides. When both sides are done, add the 112"-wide back top trim (J), and the 212"-wide center and bottom rails (K), cutting the parts to exact lengths. The center rail will extend 14" above the top edge of the fixed shelf (D) and be slotted without the 14" spacer, and the top back (J) and bottom rail (K) will be flush with the cabinet back (B) and bottom (C), respectively. Both are slotted with the 14" spacer. To secure the rail joints, drill countersunk shank holes and pilot holes for #8 3" flathead wood screws. Sand the trim flush as needed. Cut off the front inside corners of the wings (H), where shown in Figure 1. Then, add the wing trim (L) to the wings using the spacer. Sand the trim flush to the wings. To mount the hinges for the wings, cut the hinge mounting strips (M) for the cabinet sides (A) (see Figure 1). Glue and clamp the strips in place, flush with top face of the horizontal side trim (I) and 12" from the front face of the trimmed cabinet front. Next drill holes 21 4" in from each end with the countersink bit, and drive #8 112" flathead wood screws to secure the strips. Sand the mating surfaces smooth. To keep the cabinet close to the floor and the mitersaw at a
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workable height, add a pair of outrigger-like wheel supports (N) to the cabinet sides (A) (see Figure 1). (I used 8/4 [2"-thick] maple but you could laminate two pieces of 4/4 [1"thick] maple.) Cut the wheel supports to size. Then, using the caster plates as a template on the outside corners of the bottom faces of the supports, mark the holes for the 516 11 4" lag screws. Drill 1 4" pilot holes, 11 4" deep, at these locations. Measure up from the bottom edge of the sides (A) 314", and strike an alignment line for the bottom face of the wheel supports (N). Now spread glue and clamp a wheel support in place. On the inside measure up again 314", and mark the locations for the #8 2" flathead wood screws. Use the countersinking drill bit to drill the pilot holes and drive the screws. Remove the clamps and repeat for the other wheel support. Finish-sand the cabinet and wing parts, and then apply two coats of finish. (I used a waterbased satin polyurethane.)
Filler strip
Backer
F Use a guide on your drill to bore the shelf-adjustment holes. The filler and backer prevent tear-out. nuts [metric M10-1.5] purchased at a local hardware store for ease of locking. Do this to all four levelers for the cabinet and wing supports [G]). Next, attach the adjustable shelf (F). Start by measuring and marking 2" from each corner. To make clean, vertical 12" holes for the 12 6" carriage bolts, youll need a 1 4" filler strip placed between the fixed shelf (D) and the adjustable shelf, as well as a 3 4"-thick backer strip clamped to the bottom of the fixed shelf. (I used these to reduce tear- out.) Now, drill perfectly vertical and aligned 12" holes, as shown in Photo F. (I used the General AccuDrill, but you could use a 112"-thick wood block with a 12" hole that you pre-bore at the drill press.) Place a carriage bolt in each of the fixed shelf (D) holes, followed by a washer and a nut. (See the Shelf-Adjustment Hardware Detail in Figure 1.) Tighten each nut with a wrench. Place another nut on each bolt,
Add the wheel supports and adjustable shelf
1 Provide added strength
to the wheel supports (N) by attaching 3" corner braces, where shown in Figure 1, using the screws provided. (I bought the braces at local home center.) Now, screw on two non-locking, non-swiveling casters at the back and two double-locking, swiveling casters at the front. To level the cabinet on an uneven floor, apply the heavy-duty lifting levelers 3" from each front corner with the screws provided. (I removed the threaded leveler studs and added locking wing
followed by a washer. (I placed the second nut and washer 312" up from the fixed shelf, a height that worked for my saw. Your saw may require a different height.) Cut a scrap block equal in width to the nut height to use as a spacer. Now, place the adjustable shelf (E) over the bolts, followed by a washer and nut. Adjust the shelf so it rests flat on the spacer. Finger-tighten the nuts for now. Youll adjust them to the exact height later when finetuning your saw to the stand. Place your mitersaw on the adjustable shelf (E), and center it side to side. Set it back so the saws front feet measure 3 4" from the shelfs front edge. Clamp the saw in position. Now, transfer the hole locations in your saws feet onto the shelf with a pencil or awl. (My mitersaw has 14" holes in the feet for fastening the saw to the shelf.) Remove the saw to drill the four pilot holes for #14 2" sheet metal screws. Return the saw and fasten it in place, double-checking its location.
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G With the wing support piano hinge taped in place, drill the screw pilot holes using a Vix bit. them on the wing supports (G), flushing them at the top corner. (Remember that you will have a left hinge and a right hinge.) The hinge barrel should be flush with the back edge of the wing support. Now, mount the wing supports to the sides (A) with screws in the pilot holes drilled earlier. With the wing supports (G) folded against the cabinet, measure 17" over from the inside corner, and mount the lifting levelers with the screws provided. Mount the 10" piano hinges on the side faces of the hinge mounting strips (M), with the barrel of the hinges facing up. Using the Vix bit, drill the pilot holes and drive just two of the end screws into each hinge. (Youll take them off after locating the wings [H] in the next step.) Next, attach the wings (H) to the mating piano hinges. To do this, position a wing support (G) so the wing rests on it. Using clamps and a pair of 18" spacers placed between the saws table and the vertical trim (I) and wing, clamp the wing in position and mark the underside where the screws will go, as shown in Photo H, guiding off the hinge holes. Mark the center location of the leveler foot on the bottom face of the wing. Now, remove the clamps, and place the wing (H) bottom
Attach the wing supports and wings
(G), cut two piano hinges to 32" long with a hacksaw. File the burrs from the cut ends. Also, cut two 10"-long piano hinges for the wings (H). Lay out each side of the cabinet for the hinges, locating them 2038" from the back edge to the edge of the hinge. Tape the hinges (cut edge down) in place and 316" below the hinge mounting strips (M). Then drill pilot holes for the hinge screws. I used a 7 64" self-centering Vix bit, as shown in Photo G. Remove the piano hinges from the cabinet, and mount
1 To attach the wing supports 2
8" spacer
H
1
Clamp the wing in place inserting 8" spacers where shown; then mark the hinge hole locations.
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I Use the drill guide and cordless drill to bore the vertical hole for the threaded brass insert. side up. Using a pencil, mark the orientation of the attached hinge on a scrap of masking tape and stick it to the hinge. That way, you will be able to reattach the hinge at that exact location later. Next, remove the hinge and place it on the wing aligned with the marked holes. Use a square to see if the hinge is square with the edge of the wing. (It must be square for the table to fold down properly.) Drill the holes with the Vix bit, and drive the screws. Repeat for the other wing. On the bottom face of the 1 wings (H), drill 13 4" recesses, 4" deep, for the leveler feet, where shown in Figure 1. They should be directly above the leveler feet when the wing supports are at a right angle to the cabinet sides. Open the hinge of a wing (H), and position it against the hinge mounting strip (M). Remove the orientation tape, and align the hinge holes with the screw holes drilled earlier. Drive all of the screws in place. Repeat for the other side.
J Drive the threaded inserts using a drill and socket as seen in the Inset; recess the inserts 116" below the surface. rigid and stable, add a four-arm knob with a 112" stud that goes through each wing and into the horizontal trim (I) on sides (A). (See Figure 1.) To do this, rest the wing on the wing support (G). Then, measuring from the center of the vertical trim (I) at the sides inside corner, make a mark 218" in on the top face of the wing. (The mark must also be centered on the horizontal side trim beneath the wing.) Now, outfit the drill guide or shop-made guide block and drill with a 516" brad-point bit, and set the guides stop to bore 3 4" deep. Fit the guide against the vertical trim and centered on the marked line. Drill the hole. The bit should make a center point on the horizontal trim beneath the wing. Remove the wing (H), and then install a 7 16" bit in the drill guide and cordless drill, again setting the stop for a 3 4"-deep hole. Position the bit so it is centered on
10 To make the wings (H) more
the center point, and drill the hole, as shown in Photo I. To drive the 516" threaded inserts in the holes in the horizontal trim parts (I), use a 516" bolt, a pair of jam nuts, and a mating socket, as shown in the Photo J Inset . Attach the socket to an impact driver using a socket adaptor, and drive the inserts, as shown in Photo J. Now, reattach the wing assemblies (H/L), support them with the wing supports (G), and screw the four-arm knobs with 112" studs through 516" washers and into the holes. Tighten the knobs to make the wings rigid.
12
Add the fence and stop
1 Hacksaw two pieces of
11
1 11 4 1 4 aluminum angle to the length of the wings (H). File off any burrs on the cut ends. Next, 5 lay out the 7 32 8" slots, where shown in the Fence and Stop Details. With a 7 32" bit, drill a hole at the end of the slots, and then cut between the holes with a coping saw. With a small
Figure 2: Fence and Stop Details

114"
5 7 9
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5
16" hole, 16" deep
8"
16"-18 brass threaded insert 3 4" recess, 14" deep with 516" through-hole
1
Align front face of angle with saw fence.
4" washer
Adjustable handle
#12 34" panhead screw
118" rabbet, 1 8" deep

1 4 13
" rabbet, 32" deep
Center hole for four-arm knob over side trim. 11"

7
32" slot, 58" long, centered
114" aluminum angle, 3912" long
Fine-Tune The Stand To Your Saw

Several fine-tuning adjustments exist in the mobile miter stand, allowing you to make precision cuts. Adjusting the adjustable shelf: With the wings (H) held in place by the wing supports (G), place a long level on the mitersaw table and fences. Now, use a wrench to turn the nuts on the 6" bolts to raise or lower the adjustable shelf (E) front and back to make the saw table even with the wings. Leveling the wings: With the long level still spanning the saw table and wings (H), adjust the lifting levelers on the wing supports (G) to bring the wings flush with the bottom edge of the level. Aligning the fences: With the wings (H) and saw table even, place the straight edge of a long level against the saws fence and clamp it in position. Place the aluminum fences against the level and even with the outside ends of the wings. Make a center mark in each slot. Drill pilot holes in the slots, and install #12 34" panhead screws to secure the fences in perfect alignment with the saw fence.
file, remove the burrs. Hold off attaching the fences for now. To make the two stops, cut two blanks, one at 3 4 2 3 8 8" for the backs (O), and 1 one at 3 4 2 2 8" for the fronts (P). (I made them this length for safe machining.) Using a dado set, cut the 1 1 8" rabbet, 332" deep on one face of the back blank, where shown in the Fence and Stop Details. Then, adjust the fence and dado set height, and cut the 1 3 4" wide rabbet, 1 32" deep. Switch to a standard blade and, using an auxiliary fence on your miter gauge, cut two stop backs (O) and two stop fronts (P) to 212" long from their respective blanks. Install a 34" brad-point bit in your drill press, and set up your fence at 58" from the center of the bit. Set a stop to be at exactly 114" from the bits center. This is important for the alignment of the two parts making up the saw stop. As shown in the Fence and Stop Details, drill a 34" hole 14" deep in the two stop backs (O). Chuck in a 516" bit, and drill the through-holes in the backs using a backer to prevent tear-out. Now, switch bits and drill the 716" holes, 916" deep, in the stop fronts (P).
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7
Insert the threaded inserts in the stop fronts (P), sinking them just below the surface by 132". Finally, place a 1 4" flat washer onto the stud of a ratchet-
Mitersaw Stand Cut List

A B C D E F G H I* J* K* L* M N O P Part Left and right sides Back Bottom Fixed shelf Adjustable shelf Adjustable shelf edge Wing supports Wings Right and left side trim Back top trim Center and bottom trim Wing trim Hinge mounting strips Wheel supports Stop back Stop front
style adjustable handle, and connect the backs (O) to the fronts (P) to form two saw stops. Attach the stops to the aluminum angle fences. n
Width 2678" 3514" 3514" 3514" 16" 3 4" 2014" 11" 112" 112" 212" 112" 3 4" 534" 238" 212" Length 4734" 4734" 2612" 16" 3438" 3438" 32" 3912" 42" 36" 3512" 42" 10" 2678" 212" 212" Qty. 2 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 4 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 Matl BP BP BP BP BP M BP BP M M M M M M M M
Thickness 3 4" 3 4" 3 4" 3 4" 3 4" 1 4" 3 4"
4" 4" 3 4" 3 4" 3 4" 1 2" 134" 3 4" 3 4"

3 3
*Indicates parts are initially cut oversized. See instructions. Materials: BP=Birch plywood, M=Maple Hardware/Supplies: (10) #8 3" flathead wood screws; (14) #8 2" flathead wood screws; (28) #8 112" flathead wood screws; (4) #14 2" sheet metal screws; (4) #12 34" panhead wood screws; (16) 516 114" lag screws; (2) 14" flat washers; (2) 516" flat washers; (12) 12" flat washers; (4) 12 6" carriage bolts; (4) 12" nuts; (4) M10-1.5 metric wing nuts; (4) 516"-18 brass threaded inserts (Hillman #H880550 at Lowes); (1) 114" aluminum angle 18" thick 96" long; (4) heavy-duty 3" corner brackets (Everbilt #824550 at The Home Depot).

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Milescraft #10 Biscuits, 100/pkg. General Tools AccuDrill #3637 Adjustable Handle with 16" - 18 1" Stud (2 needed)
5
#153580 #17W33 #129132 #142906 #141052 #141051 #145840 #152161 #16I41
$7.75 $49.99 $5.29 $3.25 $11.99 $18.99 $20.99 $17.99 $12.50
About Our Designer/Builder Westerville, Ohio, resident Chuck Hedlund began his woodworking life as a cabinetmaker. Beginning in 1993, he began serving the needs of several woodworking publications as a builder and designer. He is a regular contributor to Woodcraft Magazine.
Four-Arm Knob with 516"- 18 112" Stud (4 needed) 3" Casters, Non-locking, Non-swiveling (2 needed) 3" Casters, Double-Locking, Swiveling (2 needed) Heavy-Duty Leg Levelers, 4/pkg. Piano Hinge, Nickel Plated, 112 48" (2 needed)
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64" Vix Bit
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Compact, All-Purpose Workbench

A simple, solid, small-shop solution
By Alan Turner
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Overall dimensions: 24"w 60"l 3412"h

48
woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2013WorldMags.net
Figure 1: Leg Assembly Exploded View Leg Front View

3
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21"
4"
214" dado, 3 8" deep
214"
9
16" hole
1 2"
1
2 4" lag screw and washer

1" washer 1 412" tenon, 8" long
16" shaft hole
2 6" machine bolt

3"
1
Drill 112" hole after shaft hole.
138" counterbore, 38" deep, centered,with a 916" through hole, centered
1 412" mortise, 2" deep 2" long kerfs, 1 4" from outside edge 318" 15 2134" 7" Flare dado 5 flare for wedge. #8 158" flathead screw
2" nut
114" dado, 5 8" deep
634"
212"
114"
Photos: Paul Anthony; Illustrations: John Hartman
pace is a luxury that many woodworkers, especially those living in the city, cannot afford. At the Philadelphia Furniture Workshop, I designed a bench to accommodate those who want to do serious woodworking, but who dont have enough space for a full-sized workbench. This compact copy of our schools traditional bench is perfectly suited for cramped garages and basements. This bench solves another problem faced by woodworkers: mobility. Remove a pair of lag screws in the top and four bolts in the legs, and this bench is ready for transport. But
dont let the knock-down hardware fool you; this bench is meant for serious work. Even under heavy hand-planing, it does not rack. Pre-built components and modern vise hardware make for a fast and easy build. For example, the laminated butcher-block top saves days of milling and assembly. And the metal front and end vises can both be attached in a few hours. My students finish their benches in six evening classes; working at home, you can complete this bench in a couple of weekends. To fully accessories your bench, make the complementary cabinet shown on page 55.
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1
2" spacer
4" dado
A Set the sled foot half against a stopblock and cut the inside shoulder of the dado.
B Insert a spacer and cut the outside shoulder. Using a spacer instead of moving the stopblock ensures perfectly consistent dadoes. scrap blocks to fit the width of the dadoes exactly, and wrap them with packing tape. Using these blocks for alignment, glue and clamp the sled feet halves together as shown in Photo D. Allow the glue time to dry, remove the clamps, clean up the assembly at the jointer and planer, and then angle the ends at 15. Cut the uprights (C) to length. (Feel free to adjust the length to suit. Refer to Build Your Bench To Fit, on page 51.)
Start with the leg assemblies
mill material for the sled foot halves (A) and top rails (B). Mill the uprights (C) from 10/4 (212"-thick) stock, or laminate thinner boards as needed. Cut the sled feet (A) to the size listed in the Cut List , leaving the ends square. Lay out the dadoes where shown in Figure 1. Next, install a 3 4" dado blade in your tablesaw. Using a dado sled, or a miter gauge
1 From 8/4 (2"-thick) stock, 2
,with an auxiliary fence, set a stopblock to cut the shoulder thats farthest away from the end ( Photo A), and make the first cut. Next, insert a 12"-wide spacer block (the spacer size is determined by subtracting the width of the dado head from the desired dado width) and make the second cut ( Photo B). Tilt your bandsaw table 5 and flare the bottom edges of the dadoes on the sled feet halves (A), as shown in Photo C . Remove the remaining waste with a chisel.
4 Cut a pair of 1 "-thick

3 16
C Guide the blade just below the top edge of the dado, and flare the bottom edge for the wedge. Tilt the table in the opposite direction to cut the opposite edge.
D Use tape-wrapped spacers to keep the sled feet halves in perfect alignment. Gluing the dadoed halves together creates clean through mortises.
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These plans are for a 3412"-high bench top, a nice height for the average-sized woodworker (5' 8" to 6'). There are different ways to determine the best height (the ideal bench height also depends on the kind of work you do), but to find a ballpark number, stand up straight, drop your arms against your sides and measure the distance from floor to your wrist. When in doubt, cut the uprights shorter and use thicker footpads to fine-tune the height.
E Use a tenoning jig to cut the slot mortises and a bandsaw to remove the waste. Lay out the tenons, mortises, and the slot mortises and dadoes for the T-bridle joints, where shown in Figure 1. Set up your tablesaw with a 3 4" dado head, and adjust the cutter height to 12". Set the bottom end of an upright (C) against the rip fence so that the first cut establishes the tenons shoulder, and make a series of dadoes, shifting the upright away from the fence until you complete the tenons face. Cut each face in the same manner; then repeat the sequence with the remaining three uprights. Replace your dado cutter with a standard saw blade. Using a shop-made or commercial tenoning jig, cut the T-bridle slot mortise on the top end of each upright (C), as shown in Photo E . To ensure a centered slot mortise, do not reset the fence.
Instead, rotate the upright so that the opposite face is against the jig, and make the second cut. Remove the remaining waste at the bandsaw, and then clean up the slot bottom with a sharp chisel. While youre at the bandsaw, kerf the tenons for the wedges, where shown in Figure 1. (Be sure to orient the kerfs so that the wedges push against the end grain of the feet.) Chuck a 1" Forstner bit into your drill press, and bore a row of overlapping blind holes to create a 12"-deep 412"-long mortises in each of the uprights, where shown on Figure 1. Clean up the edges of the mortises with a sharp chisel. Next, drill a 138" 38" deep counterbore and 916" through hole on
the opposite face of each upright, where shown. Cut the top rails (B) to the size listed in the Cut List . Next, install a 3 4" dado blade in your tablesaw. With the stopblock/ spacer technique used for the sled feet halves, cut the shoulder thats farthest away from the stopblock; then insert a 112"wide spacer block and make the second cut ( Photo F ). Now nibble out the middle waste. Flip the workpiece over, and do the same on the other face. Repeat the process for the remaining three ends. At the drill press, drill the 916" hole for the top lag screw, where shown in Figure 1. Finish-sand the assembled sled feet (A), top rails (B), and uprights (C). Using the wedge-
10
112" spacer
Tip Alert
4" dado
If you over-cut the slot, add a screw to the bottom of the slot and use it to micro-adjust the height of the top rail.
F Inserting a spacer repositions the rail for cutting the opposite shoulder of the dado, while keeping the stopblock in place for the first cut on the next piece.
51
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G Clamp the sled feet to the uprights; then tap in the wedges to lock the leg assembly together. cutting tip on page 15, cut eight 5 wedges (D). Working one leg assembly at a time, glue and clamp the top rails into the uprights. Next, glue and clamp the sled feet onto the uprights, and then drive the wedges, as shown in Photo G. After the glue dries, trim the wedges flush. From 6/4 stock, mill two stretchers (E) to the size listed in the Cut List . Using a tablesaw outfitted with a dado head, miter gauge, and auxiliary fence, cut a centered 38 412" tenon at each end, where shown in Figure 1. Fit the stretchers (E) into the leg assemblies (A, B, C), and clamp the base together. Using a 12" corded drill and 9 16" bit (dont use a Forsnter; it will wander), drill through the holes in the leg assemblies and into the ends of the stretchers (Photo H ). Remove the stretchers from the upright, and finish drilling the shaft hole. Lay out the nut holes in the stretchers (E), where shown in Figure 1. (Before drilling, insert a dowel or metal rod into the shaft hole. If the rod tilts up or down, adjust the location of the nut hole to suit.) At the drill press, drill the 112" nut holes.
H Clamp the stretchers between the leg assemblies, and use the predrilled uprights to guide your bit. Remove the uprights, and finish the shaft holes. Assemble the base with 6" machine bolts, washers, and nuts, and then put it aside for now. Mill stock for the foot pads, (F) but put them aside until after youve assembled the base. on the dog-hole strip (H), where shown in Figure 3. (If you prefer round dog holes, skip steps 3 and 4 and refer to the Online Extra on page 53.) From 112 -thick scrap, make a 2 tapered strip. Now equip your saw with a 3 4" dado head, and raise the stack to make 3 4"-deep cut. Clamp the tapered strip to the dado sled, position the dog-hole strip against the tapered piece, and cut the dadoes as shown in Photo I. Referring to Figure 2, lay out the mortise for the front vise on the inside face of the front-edge strip (I). Using a
14
Build the top
11
1 Unpack the laminated maple 2

top (G), joint an edge, and then rip the top to 21" wide. From 10/4 stock, mill the dog-hole and front-edge strips (H, I) and cut them to the sizes listed in the Cut List . Make the vise spacer (J) from any available piece of scrap. Lay out ten 3 4"-wide dadoes
12
13
I Rest the dog-hole strip against the tapered stock, and cut the slanted dado. Orient the strip so that the dog holes tilt toward the inset vise.
Figure 2: Workbench Exploded View

60" 24"
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1714" 88
3
Veritas Inset Vise (see Figure 3)
358" #8 2" flathead wood screw

3
4"dadoes, 4" deep
8 212" lag screw
178 714 58"deep mortise, 34" in from end of (I) Jorgensen 4 7" Vise
2 4" lag screw
1 1
2" nut
1 4 2" tenon, 38" long
2 6" machine bolt
#8 1 8" flathead wood screw

5
Figure 3: Inset Vise Detail

#8 1" flathead wood screw
Online Extra
To learn how to drill perfectly perpendicular round dog holes, plus additional instruction about installing a metal vise, check out: http://www. woodcraftmagazine.com/ onlineextras/41-Vises.pdf
112" chip clearance hole 1034" 3"
15
32"
1
8"-deep lip
15
2116" mortise, 16" deep
handsaw, make angled cuts at the ends of the mortise to establish the length. Now using your drill press equipped with a 1" Forstner bit, remove the bulk of the waste; then clean up the mortise with a chisel. Glue and clamp the dog-hole strip (H) to the front-edge strip (I). Make certain to clean out any squeeze-out that oozes into the dog holes and vise mortise. Apply the front-edge and dog-hole strips (H, I) to the laminated top (G) with glue and clamps. Allow time for the glue to dry, and then use a plane and scraper to correct any misalignment on the top face. Referring to Figure 3, lay out the main mortise cavity for the inset vise. Using a router equipped with a 12" straight bit and edge guide, gradually rout out the main cavity to 1516"-deep. Then rout the shallower 18"deep recesses on either side. Finally, drill a 112"-diameter hole through the workbench so that chips can fall through before interfering with the vise. Test-fit the vise and transfer the mounting screw locations. Drill pilot holes; then install the vise with the screws provided.
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Attach the four pad feet (F) to the leg assemblies (A, B, C). (Consider the 34"-thick pads as a starting point. You can adjust the thickness of the footpads for comfort.) Apply a protective finish. To bring out the color of the wood, I rubbed on a coat
6 7
of Odies Oil to all surfaces. To resist stains and glue, I applied two coats to the top. Using 3 4"-thick scrap hardwood, make yourself a few simple bench dogs, and then put your bench to work. n
About Our Designer/Builder Alan Turner has been a woodworker for 50 years. He teaches at the Philadelphia Furniture Workshop which he founded in 2006 to provide woodworking instruction to woodworkers of all skill levels. For information on classes, visit philadelphiafurnitureworkshop.com.
Workbench Cut List

Part A B C* D E F G H I J Sled feet halves Top rails Uprights Wedges Stretchers Foot pads Benchtop Dog-hole strip Front-edge strip Vise spacer 114"
3
Thickness 112" 112" 214"
Width Length 212" 234" 214" 214" 5" 3" 21" 214" 214" 412" 2134" 21" 3112" 212" 41" 3" 60" 60" 60" 712"
Qty. Matl 4 2 4 4 2 4 1 1 1 1 HM HM HM HM HM HM Butcher block HM HM HM
4"
134" 11316" 1316 1"
Final assembly
(G/H/I) on a pair of sawhorses, face down, and position the assembled base on its bottom face. Attach the base to the top using 1 2 4" lag screws and washers. Attach the vise spacer (J) with screws. Position the vise on top of the spacer, and transfer the mounting-hole locations using a pencil or punch. Drill 14" pilot holes, and then install the front vise with 38 212" lag screws.
1 Lay the assembled top
Materials: HM=Hard Maple *Indicates that parts are initially cut oversize. See instructions.

1. 2. 3. Laminated Maple Benchtop, 24" 60" Jorgensen Rapid Acting Bench Vise 4" 7" Odies Oil, 9 oz. #145685 #16T51 #157863 $219.99 $159.99 $27.99
4.
Veritas Inset Vise
05G31.01
$89.00
Above items available at Lee Valley Tools, Ltd., (800) 871-8158, leevalley.com
Hardware/Supplies: (16) #8 158" flathead wood screws; (4) #8 2" flathead wood screws; (2) 12 4" lag screws; (4) 12 6" machine bolts; (4) 38 212" lag screws; (6) 1" SAE washers; (4) 34" SAE washers.
Workbench Tool Cabinet

Get more bang from your bench with this easy-to-build box.
By Alan Turner
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Figure 1: Tool Cabinet Exploded View

3934"
#8 112" flathead wood screws
1978"
2" (12mm) rabbet, 38" (9mm) deep

1
#6 4 flathead wood screws

3
4 (18mm) dado, 3 8 (9 mm) deep

3
3 3
4 (18mm) rabbet, 8 (9 mm) deep
1 3
4 (6mm) dadoes, 8 (9 mm) deep

112" hole
212"
1614"
17" 3" 1934" 1534"
#8 112" flathead wood screws
Overall Dimensions: 1612"w 3934"l 17"h
Photos: Paul Anthony; Illustrations: John Hartman
his under-bench cabinet offers superconvenient storage without sacrificing additional floor or wall space. Designed to be built and put into service quickly, the cabinet employs simple joinery and requires only a small handful of hardware. Once installed and stocked, the case and tools within will provide extra mass to your bench to help keep it firmly planted when working with hand tools.
This cabinet is intended to complement the Compact, All-Purpose Workbench (page 48), but if the cabinet fits (or you alter the dimensions to suit) it can serve as a fitting upgrade to almost any workbench. Note: Baltic birch (used to build this cabinet and drawers) is manufactured to metric specifications. For best results when using this material, refer to the metric measurements listed in parentheses beside their imperial equivalents, for example, 38" (9mm).
Figure 2: Drawer Detail
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4 (6mm) rabbet, 12 (9mm) deep on top three top drawers
1
Drawer 1 Drawer 2
138" 138"
212" 134"
Drawer 3
358"
4"
Make the drawers

14 4"
1
1212" 812"
1
Drawer 4
712"
858"
2"
1" rabbet, 12 (9mm) deep on bottom drawer
Cut the top and bottom (A), sides (B), and center partition (C) to the sizes listed in the Cut List . Install a 3 4" (18mm) dado set in your tablesaw, attach a sacrificial fence to your saws rip fence, adjust the dado height to 38", and then rabbet and dado the top and bottom (A) for the
Start with the case
1 2
sides (B) and center partition (C), where shown in Figure 1. Next, bury the dado head slightly, and then cut the 12" (12 mm) rabbet in the rear edges of the top/ bottom and sides for the back (D). Adjust your dado set width to 1 4" (6mm) and cut the dadoes for the drawer bottoms (E) in the sides (B) and center partition
Figure 3: Exploded Drawer

114" nails
to fit your cabinet. Now cut the drawer fronts (F, G, H, I), sides (J, K, L), and backs (M, N, O) to the sizes listed in the Cut List . At the drill press, drill the finger holes in the drawer fronts, where shown with a 112" Forstner bit. Install a 12" (9 mm) dado set in your tablesaw, adjust the dado height to 38" (12mm), and then dado each drawer front (F, G, H, I), where shown in Figure 3, to fit the drawer sides (J, K, L). Attach a sacrificial fence to your rip fence, and adjust the fence as needed to rabbet the bottom edges of the drawer fronts, where shown in Figure 3. Assemble the drawers with glue and pin nails, as shown in Photo A .
1 Cut the drawer bottoms (E)
(C), where shown in Figures 1 and 2. (To ensure that the dadoes line up, cut each matching pair of dados before adjusting the fence.) Dry-assemble the case and cut the back (D) to fit. Using the back to square the case, reassemble the case with glue. Attach the back to the case with 34"screws.
112"-dia. hole
3
4"
1 3
2 (9mm) dado, 8 (12mm) deep
114" nails
20"
A Make sure that the bottom lip projects evenly on both sides; then shoot a few nails to hold the parts together.
Note: Refer to Figure 2 for part letters.
Figure 4: Cabinet Hinge Detail WorldMags.net

37mm 22.5mm
Hinge-clip mounting plate
3"
3"
B Measure the hinge-to-edge distance on a piece of scrap to set the drill press fence.
110 fulloverlay hinge
Make and hang the door
1 Cut the door (P) to the size 2 3
Finishing up
and hardware, inspect the parts, and finish-sand as needed. Apply a clear finish. Cut and attach the cleats (Q) to the case bottom to prevent the cabinet from sliding out when moving your workbench. Reinstall the drawers and the mounting plates and door. Finally, round up your favorite tools and stock your cabinet. n
1 Remove the doors, drawers, 2 3
listed in the Cut List . At the drill press, drill the finger hole, where shown in Figure 1. Draw a pair of lines, on the hinge side of the case and door, where shown in Figure 4, to locate the centers of the hinges. Chuck a 35mm bit into your drill press, set the fence as shown in Photo B, and then drill 7 16"-deep hinge cup holes on the door using the reference lines as guides. Press the hinges into place, and then drive the supplied screws. Attach the hinge mounting plates to the inside of the case, where shown. Now attach the door to the case by clipping the hinges to the mounting plates.
Workbench Cabinet Cut List

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q Part Top/bottom Sides Center partition Back Drawer bottoms Drawer 1 front Drawer 2 front Drawer 3 front Drawer 4 front Drawer 1 and 2 sides Drawer 3 sides Drawer 4 sides Drawer backs for 1 and 2 Drawer back for drawer 3 Drawer back for drawer 4 Door Cleats Thickness 3 4" 3 4" 3 4" 1 2" 1 2" 3 4" 3 4" 3 4" 3 4" 1 2" 1 2" 1 2" 1 2" 1 2" 1 2" 3 4" 3 4" Width Length 1534" 3934" 1534" 1614" 1512" 1614" 1614" 39116" 1938" 1534" 212" 20" 134" 20" 4" 20" 8116" 20" 138" 1538" 358" 1538" 1 7 2" 1538" 1 2 2" 1712" 5 3 8" 1712" 712" 1712" 17" 1934" 1" 1214" Qty. Matl 2 BB 2 BB 1 BB 1 BB 4 BB 1 BB 1 BB 1 BB 1 BB 4 BB 2 BB 2 BB 2 BB 1 BB 1 BB 1 BB 2 HM
Materials: BB=Baltic Birch Plywood, HM=Hard Maple

1. 2. 3. 4. WoodRiver 6" (150mm) Stainless Steel Cabinetmakers Rule DrillRite 35mm Hinge Jig and Bit Blum 110 CLIP Top Hinge with Blumotion, Full Overlay, pair General Finishes Enduro-Var Top Coat, Semi-Gloss, Quart #140655 #143958 #152740 #151028 $4.19 $11.50 $17.99 $29.99
Hardware/Supplies: (26) #8 112" flathead wood screws; (9) #6 34" flathead wood screws; 114" pin nails.
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Planer Cart
Portability without the back strain
By Paul Anthony
Overall dimensions: 24"w 2012"d 25"h
hen it comes to portable planers, the term portable is a bit of a stretch. Any of these machines is heavy enough to cause your back to protest when stashing the tool away on a shelf or under a bench. And yet a portable planer needs to be moveable so it can be stored when not in use in a space-starved shop. For me, the answer is to mount a portable planer on a space-saving mobile cart that includes drawers so that the space below the machine isnt wasted. This cart is tall enough to allow comfortable stock feeding, but low enough to ensure stable mobility. The 3 4"-thick plywood case, with its solid wood face frame, is stout enough to carry a heavy machine and large enough to accommodate most portable planers models currently on the market. A shallow top drawer accommodates machine wrenches, extra knives, and other small accoutrements. The lower drawer is deep enough to house general tools and supplies, and the self-closing slides keep the drawers from opening when pushing the unit around. The heavy-duty casters ensure smooth, reliable mobility when needed and rock solid footing when locked for planing operations. This is one shop accessory that really earns its keep.
Figure 1: Planer Cart Exploded View
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#6 114 flathead screw #6 114" flathead screw 212"
8-32 112" panhead screw

1 1
2" rabbet, 4" deep
12"
2"
3 1
4" rabbet, 4" deep
Non-swiveling caster
5
16 1" Lag screw (with washer)
Swiveling caster 1716"
#6 1" flathead screw
Build the case
1 Lay out and cut the case sides

(A) and top and bottom (B) to the sizes shown in the Cut List . Using a dado head on the tablesaw, cut the 3 4"-wide by 1 4"-deep rabbets in the sides (Photo A), setting up the cut with scrap. Alternatively, you could use a router and straightedge for the job. With the dado head at the same height, adjust the rip fence for a 12"-wide cut, and saw the rabbets in the rear edges of the sides, top, and bottom, where shown in Figure 1.
A Saw the rabbets in the case sides using a dado head and a sacrificial fence clamped to your rip fence.
Opening photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Project photos: Paul Anthony; Illustration: Frank Rohrbach III
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where shown in Figure 1. Then screw the face frame together using 11 4"-long washer head screws designed for pockethole joinery ( Photo D). If necessary, sand or plane the rear face of the assembled face frame flat and smooth at its perimeter for good contact with the edges of the case. Slip the back (C) into place unglued, and lay the case on its back on a dead flat surface. Temporarily clamp the face frame (D, E) to the front of the case, carefully centering it side to side. Now make and fit your drawer slide shims (F) to the sizes shown in the Cut List , gluing paper or cardboard to them if necessary to perfectly align the faces of the shims with the interior edges of the stiles (D). Note the particular location of each shim with a number. Mark out the screw-hole locations on each drawer slide shim (F), positioning them to avoid interference with the future locations of the drawerslide mounting holes, and then
B Glue up the case with the unglued back inserted to keep things square. A tab of duct tape allows easy removal of the back for internal inspection. Dry-clamp the case sides (A) to the top and bottom (B), and measure for an exact fit of the back panel (C). Saw the panel to size, making sure its absolutely square. Working on a flat surface, glue up the case with the unglued back dry-fit in its rabbets to keep things square ( Photo B). Use clamping cauls to distribute the clamping pressure across the joints. (Instead of clamping, you can glue and nail, puttying the nail holes later.)
(E) to the sizes shown in the Cut List , with one exception: make each stile about 116" oversized in width for now. (Youll trim their edges flush to the case after attaching the face frame.) Use a stopblock when cutting the rails to length to ensure they are all cut to precisely 1912" long for proper drawer fit and operation. Using a pocket-hole jig, drill the screw pockets in the ends of the rails ( Photo C ). Mark the intended location of the center rail 12" from the bottom end of each stile,
6 Mill the stiles (D) and rails
7 8
10
C Drill screw pockets into the rear faces of the rails to allow their attachment to the stiles.
D Clamp a rail and stile into alignment using locking pliers designed for the job, and pull the parts together with screws.
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E Use spacers to ensure accurate placement and quick attachment of the drawer slide shims. drill and countersink clearance holes for #6 screws. Referring to Figure 1, set the bottom shims 2" up from the inside bottom of the case and the top shim 212" down inside from the inside top of the case, and then attach the shims to the case sides (A) using #6 11 4"-long screws ( Photo E ). In preparation for attaching the face frame, plane the front edges of the case if necessary to flush them up, and rehearse your face frame clamp-up, pre-adjusting your clamps in the process ( Photo F ). Then reinsert the case back (C) unglued into its rabbets, and
F Raising the case on wooden I-beams allows full clamping access around the case perimeter for attaching the face frame.
11
glue and clamp the face frame to the case, carefully aligning the interior edges of the face frame with the faces of the drawer shims (F). (Alternatively, you can use pocket screws, as shown in the photos on page 67.) After the glue dries, use a flush-trim router bit to shave the edges of the face frame flush with the case sides ( Photo G).
2 Carefully sand away any
12
3 4
Make the drawers
1 Cut the drawer box parts
(G, H, I, J, K) to the sizes shown in the Cut List , carefully squaring every end. Then saw the joints as described in the sidebar, page 62.
fuzz on the joint edges with 220-grit paper. Also, ease the sharp corners of the tongues on the drawer bottoms (K) for easy insertion into their grooves during glue-up. Dry-assemble the drawers to rehearse your clamp-up procedures and check the joint fits. Make any necessary adjustments. Glue up the drawer boxes, spot-gluing the bottoms here and there in their grooves. Work on a flat surface, making sure the assemblies are square under clamping pressure ( Photo H ).
G Use a flush-trim bit to rout the perimeter of the face frame flush to the case sides, top, and bottom.
H Check the square of the glued-up drawer boxes by comparing diagonals to ensure theyre equal.
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WorldMags.net Perfect, Simple Drawer Joinery

Building drawer boxes from 12"-thick plywood doesnt get much easier than this. All you need are your precut drawer parts, a good quality dado head, and some scrap to test your setup. To set up for the process, adjust your dado head for a 14"-wide cut. Stand a piece of plywood drawer stock on edge against the fence, and position the fence so that the outer face of the plywood is flush with the outer edge of the saw teeth. Then adjust the blade height for a 14"deep cut using scrap to confirm the setting. Lock the blade at that height for the entire following process. Now youre ready to make your cuts:
the same setup, cut the drawer bottom grooves on the inside faces of the sides, fronts, and backs. 2 Readjust the fence until test cuts yield a rabbet with a tongue that fits snugly without force into the dadoes you cut in Step 1. Then saw the rabbets on the drawer fronts and backs by standing the parts on end, supported by a raised featherboard. 3 Reposition the fence about 164" closer to the blade. (This will allow the drawer bottoms to slide easily in their grooves for trouble-free assembly.) Cut the rabbets on all four edges of each drawer bottom. The drawers are now ready to assemble.
1 Saw the dadoes in the drawer sides. Then, using
Side
Front and back
Bottom
I A 1716"-wide spacer makes quick, accurate work of aligning the drawer slides for attachment.
Screw the case-half of each drawer slide to its shim (F), aligning the bottom edges of each, and recessing the forward end 116" back from the front edge of the face frame. Screw the drawer-half of each slide to its respective drawer side, setting the forward end of the slide flush with the front edge of the drawer, and offsetting the bottom edge of each slide 1716" up from the bottom edge of the drawer sides (G, I) ( Photo I ). I use a plywood spacer for the job.
Install the drawer slides
Make the top and drawer fronts
(L, M) to the sizes shown, edgegluing boards to make the large drawer front (M) if you dont have wide enough stock. Also joint and edge-glue enough boards to make the top (N), and then saw it to the dimensions shown in the Cut List . Rout or hand-plane a 18" chamfer around the edges of the false drawer fronts (L, M) and top (N). Attach the false drawer fronts with countersunk #6 1" flathead screws through clearance holes drilled in the
1 Make the false drawer fronts
2 3
Refined or Rough-andReady: Your Choice
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So why bother sanding and finishing this cart? Its just a shop accessory, right? Well, maybe. Truth is, this handy little unit would be just as much at home in an office or other workroom after it has served its shop time. It would be a shame if it was too shoddily dressed for the occasion. J drawer box. Offset the bottom edge of each drawer front 3 4" away from the bottom edge of its drawer box. Then lay out and drill the 316"-diameter through holes for the drawer pulls, which are centered on the drawer fronts. Align the long edge of each swiveling caster flush with the front of the cabinet. Inset each fixed caster 12" from the rear edge of the cabinet.
Planer Cart Cut List

Part A B C D E F G H I J K L M N Sides Top and bottom Back Stiles Rails Drawer slide shims Small drawer sides Small drawer front and back Large drawer sides Large drawer front and back Drawer bottoms Small drawer false front Large drawer false front Top Thickness
3 3 1
Width Length 18 4"

1
Qty. Matl 2 2 1 2 3 4 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 HP HP HP M M HP HP HP HP HP HP M M M
4"
20" 2112" 19" 20" 19 2"

1 3
4" 4" 4" 4"
1814" 21 2"
1
Finish up
2"
1 Ease all sharp edges with
3 3 3 1 1 1 1 1
112" 1 2"
1
2 3 4 5 6
150-grit paper, and sand all exposed surfaces through 220 grit. Thoroughly blast away any dust on the case interior and exterior using compressed air, and then attach the back (C) with glue and 112"-long finish nails. Attach the casters with 516" 1" lag screws, as shown in Photo J. Install the swiveling casters at the front of the cabinet and the fixed casters at the rear. Apply the finish of your choice. I used three coats of Enduro-Var. Attach the pulls with 8-32 112" panhead machine screws. Attach the top with countersunk #6 1" flathead screws from inside the case. Finally, screw your planer to the cart. Alternatively, you can attach cleats to the top at the perimeter of the machine base. You just want to keep it from sliding off the top should the casters suddenly encounter an obstruction during travel. n
2" 4" 4" 912" 9 2"

1
17 4" 18" 18" 18" 18" 17 16"

15
2" 2" 2" 2" 2" 4" 4" 4"
17 16"
7
3 3 3
6" 11 2"
1
2012" 20 2"
1
2012"
24"
Materials: HP=Hardwood Plywood, M=Maple

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.* Accuride 3832SC 18" Self-closing Drawer Slides, Clear Zinc (2 sets needed) 3" Caster, Non-locking, Non-swiveling with 4-Hole Mounting Plate, 414" Tall (2 needed) 3" Caster, Double-locking, Swiveling with 4-Hole Mounting Plate, 414" Tall (2 needed) General Finishes Enduro-Var Top Coat, Semi-Gloss, qt. Amerock Pull, Brass (2 needed) #142861 #141052 #141051 #151028 #130144 $21.50 $11.99 $18.99 $29.99 $4.99 each
Above items are available at Woodcraft stores, woodcraft.com or by calling (800) 225-1153. Prices subject to change without notice. *Available only by calling (800) 225-1153.
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Power Tower
By Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
Custom-made parking for portable power tools
Overall dimensions: 32"w 24"l 7614"h

And when you need even more space, the heavy-duty casters enable you to quickly roll a shops worth of tools out of the way. I designed the cabinet to accommodate a wide assortment of benchtop tools and to minimize material costs. (Youll need only two sheets of 3 4"-plywood and about 20 board feet of hardwood). And for those
sk any woodworker struggling to carve a workshop from a basement or garage, and youll learn that the most valuable commodity isnt tools or materialsits space. Often, the worst space-eaters arent the tools youre using; theyre the ones you arent. By offering convenient parking spots for all sorts of portable and benchtop
tools, this storage tower can help fix your power tool pileup. This closet on wheels features hardwood face frames, a center divider to reinforce the open case, and adjustable sawtooth shelf hangers to make the most of available space. (The plywood sides can provide extra wall space for items such as clamp racks or tool boards.)
Figure 1: Power Tower Exploded Drawing
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114" pocket screw 1" pocket screw 114" pocket screw
Notch Detail
1
4"
1"
3 7
2"
4" dado, 32" deep*
4" brads
6" 3" sawtooth shelf support system
1038"
1834"
1512"
1
2"
4" locking caster

5
158" flathead screw *Adjust dado depth so that remaining plywood is 12".
16 1" lag screw
16" SAE Washer
working without the benefit of a full-fledged workshop, I employed a few tricks so that they can build this tower with a few portable power tools and a small collection of clamps. This cabinet takes up six square feet of floor space, but surprisingly, once its fully loaded, your shop may feel a little bigger.
Build the case
1 From one sheet of "

3 4
Tip Alert
For convenience, have the plywood ripped to 24"-wide at the lumberyard. Even if the stores cut is a little off, there should still be enough material for you to recut both edges.
plywood, cut the sides (A). From a second sheet, cut the top, bottom, and fixed shelves (B) to the sizes listed in the Cut List . (Note: Later, youll make the center divider (F) from the material left over from cutting the sides, and the adjustable shelves (I) from the shelf sheet.)
Opening photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Illustrations: Frank Rohrbach III
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A Set the cut depth so that the saw teeth graze the underlying foam. Stacking and sawing saves time and ensures symmetrical parts. Unless you have a tablesaw with a large infeed and outfeed table, the easiest way to break down sheet goods is by laying the plywood on a piece of rigid foam and using a rail-guided saw (Photo A). (Alternatively, you can use a standard circular saw with a shop-made or store-bought straightedge guide.) Cut one long edge, measure the cut on both ends, lay the guide rail in place, and then cut the opposite edge. Finally, cut the parts to length. Using a framing square, lay out the dadoes on one side (A), where shown in Figure 1. (Note: For tight-fitting dadoes, use a scrap piece of plywood to determine the actual cut width.)
1 2
B Use an offset guide to position the straightedge, and then rout both sides at once to ensure that the dadoes line up. (C), rails (D), and shelf edging (E) to the sizes in the Cut List , but make the stiles about 116" oversized in width. Also, leave the shelf edging long for now. Using a pocket-hole jig, drill holes at the ends of the rails (D). Position the stiles (C) on top of the assembled case to double-check the position of the rails, and then assemble the face frames using 11 4" pocket screws and glue. Again using a pocket-hole jig, drill holes along the inside edges of the sides (A), the bottom-face edges of the bottom and fixed shelf, and the top-face edges of the top (C), as shown in Photo C . Square the assembled plywood case, apply glue to the outside edges, position the face frame on top, and then attach the frame with 11 4" pocket screws ( Photo D). Repeat with the opposite face frame. With the cabinet lying face frame up, use a handheld router and flush-trim V-groove bit to trim the outside edges of the stiles. (Note: You may also use a standard flush bit. I use a V-groove flush-trim bit for concealing less-than-perfect joints.)
3 Chuck a " straight bit
4 5
Three-quarter inch plywood is rarely 34" thick. To cancel out sheet good shortcomings, I set my 14"-deep dadoes so that the remaining material is 12" thick. In this case, the depth differencebarely a 1 32"makes fitting the face frames easier and ensures that the finished case is 24" wide.
Dado Depth Makes All The Difference
into a handheld router, and set the bit depth according to Dado Depth Makes All The Difference, bottom left. Now, clamp the sides (A) together, and use a straightedge guide to rout the dadoes across both sides, as shown in Photo B. Lay out and then rout the stopped grooves in the sides and the corresponding dadoes in the fixed shelf and bottom for the center divider (F). To limit the number of clamps needed to assemble the case, use a pocket-hole jig to drill holes along the ends of the top, bottom, and fixed shelf (B), where shown in Figure 1. (Note: Drill the pocket holes on the faces that wont be visible after assembly.) Test-assemble the case without glue, to ensure that the parts fit and to obtain the exact dimension of the center divider (F). Cut the divider to fit. With help, apply glue to the dadoes, and then fit the top, bottom, and fixed shelf into one side (A) and clamp the parts together with 1"-long pocket-hole screws. Attach the opposite side in the same manner. While the glued-together case dries, mill the stock for the stiles
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C Using pocket-screw holes along the outside edges reduces the need for clamps.
D Clamp the face frame tightly to the case, and drive in the pocket screws. Reposition the clamps as you work your way across the case.
From 3 4" hardwood, saw spacers (G) and caster mounting boards (H) to the sizes listed in the Cut List . Using the caster bracket as a guide, lay out mounting holes. At the drill press, drill clearance holes in the caster mounting board (H) for the attachment screws and pilot holes for the lag screws. Attach the spacers and mounting boards to the case bottom with glue and 158" screws. Finally, attach the casters with washers and 516 1" lag screws. Sand the case interior to 220 grit, and apply your desired finish. (I used two coats of General Finishes Enduro-Var.) Now attach the sawtooth brackets to the inside of the case with 3 4" brads. Then, cut the support strips (included with the brackets) to fit. Make the adjustable shelves (I) about 316" shorter than the interior dimension so that they can be installed and readjusted. Lay out 12 1 4" notches on the plywood corners, where shown on Figure 1. Cut the notches with a fine-tooth handsaw.
Attach the casters and shelves
6 Trim the shelf edging (E)
to match the notch-to-notch distance on the plywood. Glue the edging to the plywood shelf. (The shelves should fit snugly. Fit them in at the top and slide them between the sawtooth brackets.)
Finish up
1 Sand exposed surfaces 2
Power Tower Cut List

A B C D E* F G H I*
through 220 grit, and then apply your desired finish. Insert the adjustable shelves into the case, load up your tower, and youre ready to roll. n
Width 2212" 2212" 2" 2" 2" 1714" 434" 512 21" Length 72" 31" 7312" 28" 18" 31" 24" 24" 3034" Qty. 2 3 4 6 4 1 2 2 2 Matl HP HP M M HP HP HP HP HP
Part Sides Top, bottom, and fixed shelf Stiles Rails Shelf edging Center divider Spacer Mounting boards Adjustable shelves
Thickness 3 4" 3 4" 3 4" 3 4" 3 4" 3 4" 3 4" 3 4" 3 4"
Materials: HP=Hardwood Plywood, M=Maple *Indicates that parts are initially cut oversized. See instructions. Hardware/Supplies: (16) 1" pocket screws; (16) 114" pocket screws; 158" production screws; (16) 516 1" lag screws; (16) 516" SAE washers; 34" brads.

1. 2. 3. 4. Freud Flush Trim V-Groove Bit, 5 8" D, 1" CL (14" SH) 3" Caster, Double Locking, Swiveling with 4-Hole Mounting Plate, 414" Tall (4 needed) General Finishes Enduro-Var Topcoat, Semi-Gloss, qt. (2 needed) Sawtooth Shelf Supports, Poplar #838923 #141051 #151028 #153504 $27.97 $18.99 $29.99 $29.99
4 5
Project photos: Brian Francis
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INFRARED HEAT
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Phone: 810.686.7221 Fax: 810.686.7564
WoodSense WorldMags.net
Spotlight on Boxelder
The softest of the maples has lots to offer woodworkers of all ages.
By Pete Stephano Technical Consultant: Larry Osborn
he forest products industry classifies boxelder (Acer negundo) as a soft maple, along with silver maple and red maple. The three are normally mixed and sold together under the soft maple label. At 27 pounds per cubic foot dry, about the same as white pine, boxelder rates as the lightest and weakest of the maples. Although a bit brittle, it works easily with hand and machine tools, making it suitable for woodworking novices to practice on and use for a variety of projects. Boxelder stock is light-colored, fine-textured, and close-
grained. Normally lackluster, the wood sometimes displays raspberry-colored streaks caused by fungal infection. When wet or unseasoned, boxelder offers up a nasty aroma that fades once the wood dries.
History in woodworking
Turning of stained boxelder
Boxelder has been used for food containers such as crates and barrels. Crafters have cut wooden utensils (treenware) from the wood. Add to this list toys, basic furniture, and cabinets, as well as carvings. Beyond that, both woodturners and box makers prize the red-streaked stock for making eye-catching turnings and decorative boxes. Commercially, boxelder pulp has gone into the making of fiberboard.
it was planted extensively in the West and Northwest, even into Saskatchewan and Manitoba, for erosion control and windbreaks, and because it can thrive in cold, punishing climates. The largest trees of this species70' tall and up to 4' in diameterare found there.
What youll pay
Where the wood comes from
In North America, the greatest quantity of boxelder grows from the Great Lakes states to the central Atlantic states and from southern New England to northern Florida. However, because the tree grows rapidly, especially along streams and in lowlands,
Like sugar maple, boxelder lumber grades range from FAS (first and seconds, the highest) to No. 3B Common (the lowest). However, youll have to shop local sawmills or small outlets for boxelder within the species growth range. It's not always an easy find. An FAS, 4/4 (1"-thick) boxelder board foot should run about $3. Expect to triple that cost for red-streaked stock. You wont find any boxelder veneer, but specialty dealers will have carving and turning blanks, and possibly live-edge slabs.
How to select the best stock
While boxelder lumber is normally mixed with the other soft maples, some specialty sawmills within the trees range
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Boxelder Quick Take
Cost Weight Hardness Stability Moderate About 25% lighter than sugar maple Roughly half as hard as sugar maple Moderate
Flatsawn, fungistained boxelder
Durability Low (due to rot and insect attack) Strength Toxicity Tool Type Moderate Skin irritation possible Hand and power tools with sharp blades and cutters Decorative and ornamental pieces, carvings, turnings, boxes, crates, some furniture, and toys
may separate boxelder and sell it for a very reasonable price. Except for those trees that display wood with the unmistakable fungiproduced red streaks, theres little noticeable difference between boxelder sapwood and heartwood, so selecting boards for a project isnt a difficult chore. Because of the woods poor resistance to decay, avoid it for all outdoor projects. Boxelder may also display small, tight pin knots and birdpeck, neither of which affects value and are allowed in grading.
Working boxelder in the shop
If youre familiar with machining the hard maple known as sugar maple, youll find the much softer boxelder a lot easier to work. That said, like sugar maple, it, too, will burn if precautions are not taken. When ripping boxelder, feed the workpiece at a constant moderate rate to reduce or eliminate burning. The same is true when routing, only here trim excess wood in several light passes.
Illustration: Steve Sanford; Sample Photo: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Vase Photo: Bob Hawks
When drilling, eliminate burning by using high-quality sharp bits at a moderate to slow speed and by occasionally raising the bit and clearing the hole of chips. To fasten boxelder project parts together with screws, drill pilot holes first to avoid splitting. All adhesives work well on boxelder, but its tight grain wont absorb glue easily. Spread the glue evenly on the mating surfaces, rubbing them together if possible before clamping for a complete bond. Boxelder sands wonderfully, but blotches when stained, just like sugar maple. For best results, use a sanding sealer, dewaxed shellac, or a thin coat of a wipe-on finish to partially seal the wood before staining. Make sure the sealer and stain are compatible by testing them on a piece of boxelder scrap. Another trick is to go with a gel or heavy-bodied stain that you wipe off and reapply to achieve the desired color.
Common Uses
Its a fact that
Native Americans sought out the burls and knots on the lower trunks of boxelder trees for pipestems, bowls, dishes, and drums. They boiled the inner bark to make a tea that served as an emetic. They also boiled down the sap for syrup and treats. Because the wonderful red streaking on fungal-infected wood turns brown after prolonged exposure to sunlight, slow down the process with a clear finish having UV protection. Some woodturners and others who regularly work red-stained boxelder fortify the streaking with aniline dye of the same color to prolong its vividness. n
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The perfect way to cut logs the traditional way. The Lynx saw range Available at Woodcraft
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Automaxx Face Clamps and Bench Klamps make clamping fast and foolproof every time, thanks to new technology that allows you to clamp materials of varying thicknesses without ever adjusting the clamp. Just set the clamping pressure once, using an easy-to-regulate thumbscrew, and Automaxx clamps do the rest locking closed easily and consistently every time and with every thickness. These clamps have large pivoting jaws with added pads for aligning face joints and comfortable handle grips for reduced hand fatigue. Kreg joinery just got a little easier, thanks to the versatility and simplicity of Automaxx clamps.
To Find Your Local Woodcraft Store Or For A Free Catalog, Visit woodcraft.com Or Call 1-800-225-1153. 13WD09H2
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Experienced woodworkers know that Forrest blades are ideal for remodeling high-end kitchens and baths. Forrest blades deliver smooth, quiet cuts without splintering, scratching, or tearouts. Our proprietary manufacturing process, hand straightening, and unique grade of C-4 micrograin carbide are perfect for cabinets, countertops, and ooring. In fact, independent tests rate us #1 for rip cuts and crosscuts. Your blades are without question the best by miles, and I have tried them all. Bob Jensen, Fridley, MN
Woodworker II Fine Woodworking Chop Master Woodshop News
Our Most Popular Saw Blades:

Duraline Hi-ATGreat for cutting two-sided veneers and low pressure laminates. Woodworker IIBest rated, all-purpose blade for rips and crosscuts. Order from any Forrest dealer or retailer, online, or by calling directly. Our blades are manufactured in the U.S.A. and backed by our 30-day, money-back guarantee.
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Detail Saws
Terrific cuts from tiny teeth
ddly enough, many woodworkers spend top dollar on premium tablesaw and chopsaw blades, but are satisfied to work with junk handsaws. This is particularly true in the case of small handsaws used for scroll work, cutting veneer, making small joints, trimming plugs, and other cleanup and
Tooth Talk
detail work. Sadder yet, many woodworkers dont even own cheap versions of these saws and dont know what theyre missing. Too bad, because these smallcut specialists really earn their keep, as shown in the offerings here. So check em out. That way, the next time youre finessing fine work or sawing 19-tpi dozuki. For an exceptionally smooth cut in stock less than 12" thick, Ill reach for a saw with a 36-tpi blade. If forced to select only one saw, consider the Zona. Although its 24-tpi blade tends to stall a bit on 34"-thick stock, it handles thinner stock well, and comes with a miter box.
thin or delicate stock, ignore the power saws, and reach for the right tool for the job.
Frame saws
Coping saws have introduced many youngsters to the world of woodworking, but they are good for more than pine board sailboats and rubber-band guns. The blade can also be reversed to cut on either the push or pull stroke. The 60-tpi model makers razor saw is capable of super-smooth cuts in plastic, thinwalled brass and wood, although it stalls in thicker materials. Joe Hurst, senior editor
Typically, the more teeth per inch (tpi) that a saw blade has, the smoother and slower the cut. Choosing a saw with the proper tpi for the job at hand requires some experimentation. For the right balance between cut quality and speed (to be consistent) for general detail work, I prefer a
19 tpi
Hishiki Folding Saw #845243 (JW), $52.00
24 tpi
Zona Saw and Mini-Miter Box #140347, $21.99 (above)
Hishika Miki (434" Detail Saw) #157068 (JW), $28.35
36 tpi
60 tpi
Gyros Razor Saw #126820, $22.99
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Eclipse Coping Saw, #154762, $17.99
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Lynx Offset Handle Veneer Saw, 15 tpi #147415, $23.99 Olsen Adjustable Frame Saw, #141410, $23.99 Crown Straight-handed Veneer Saw, 25 tpi #154480, $49.99
A go-to jobsite tool for fitting moldings, these solid C-frame saws are also useful in the shop for tackling curves or pierced work that might be too dicey or awkward to cut on a scrollsaw. Coping saw blades are somewhat delicate, but theyre inexpensive and easy to replace when bent or broken. For really fine work, step up to a fretsaw, which is basically a hand-powered scrollsaw. Outfitted with the proper blade to match the job, a fretsaw can make smooth cuts and super-
tight turns in a wide variety of materials, including metal, veneer, and solid wood. Fretsaws are available with both fixed and adjustable frames. Larger saws typically have fixed U-shaped frames, which are deep enough to enable the blade to reach the middle of wide panels. However, smaller saws (which use adjustable C-frames) are easier to handle, as long as you dont need the deeper throat capacity. The adjustable frame will also help you squeeze a few more cuts from shorter broken blades.
Veneer saws
Featured products available from Woodcraft Supply or Japan Woodworker (JW).
For veneer, which is the thinnest (and often most expensive) stock in your shop, you need a
Veritas DoubleEdged Flush-Cut Saw, 22 tpi #153792, $24.99
saw that wont split or tear the fragile material. The teeth on veneer saws have no set and are designed to cut cleanly both with the grain and across it. The convex blade allows you to make long cuts while keeping some teeth fully engaged in the stock something that would be difficult to do with a straight-edged blade. The saw is generally guided against a straight edge of some sort, beginning the cut with a few light scoring strokes to prevent splitting the veneer. Saw on the pull stroke, starting at the far end and pulling the saw toward you, rocking it backwards as the cut progresses, and ending with the trailing teeth contacting the work. n
Detail Saw 25 tpi #156791 (JW), $17.85
Special Problem Solvers
These oddly shaped saws fill a niche not met by other detail saws. Considering the prices, you cant afford not to have both of these problem solvers in your toolbox. Flush-cut saws slice plugs, pegs, dowels, and other protrusions flush to the surrounding surface without scratching it. The 138"-wide paddle-shaped blade on Veritas flush-cut saw is flexible enough to be bent perpendicular to the handle. The teeth are set to one side only, enabling an aggressive cut without scratching the surface below. The double-edge blade allows you to approach the cut from either the left or the right.
Photos: Gary Tramontina
Keyhole saws are designed to make pierced cuts. Although listed as a trimmer for bamboo and bonsai, Japan Woodworkers stiff, tapered blade saw is equally suited for straight cuts and tight curves. Only 12" wide at the handle, this economical saw can start a cut from a 532"-diameter hole in the middle of a panel.
Ad Index WorldMags.net
PRODUCT Website Adhesives
Nexabond Titebond Forrest Mfg. Freud Pegas Sawblades PS Wood Whiteside Machine Satellite City
Page Power Tools

Fein Force Laguna Tools Mirka Jet www.feinus.com 1 www.forcetoolsusa.com 16 www.lagunatools.com 3 www.mirkawoodworking.us 5 www.jettools.com/1221vs BC
Woodworking Supplies
Apollo Aqua Coat BDH Belts Big Gator Tools Brand-First Brusso Cabinotch Create-A-Bed DMT Earlex Eclipse Franmar Chemical Howard Products Japan Woodworker Powermatic RoyalWood Ltd. Snappy Tools TMI Products 78 WECO Woodcraft Supply Woodpeckers www.asi-hvlp.com 10 www.aquacoat.com 79 www.BDHbelts.com 78 www.biggatortools.com 14 www.brand-first.com 78 www.brusso.com 68 www.cabinotch.us/woodcraft 23 & 78 www.wallbed.com 79 www.dmtsharp.com 68 www.earlex.com 18 www.eclipstoolsinc.com 17 www.franmar.com 68 www.howardproducts.com 18 www.japanwoodworker.com 19 www.woodcraft.com/goldrush 7 www.royalwoodltd.com 79 www.snappytools.com 79 www.TMIProducts.net 76 www.wecointernational.com 69 www.woodcraft.com 72 & 80
www.nexabond.com 23 www.caglue.com 17 www.titebond.com/TBIIIvsPolyurethane IBC www.forrestblades.com 73 www.freudtools.com/QuadraCut IFC www.grobetusa.com 18 www.pswood.com 78 www.woodcraft.com 9 www.katools.com 12
Bits, Blades, & Cutters
School/Instruction
CT Valley School of WW www.schoolofwoodworking.com 72 The American Woodshop wbgu.org/americanwoodshop 15
Carving
King Arthur Tools
Turning Supplies
Berea Hardwoods Easy Wood Tools Ring Master Lathe Robust www.woodcraft.com 77 www.woodturning.com 17 www.ringmasterlathe.com 78 www.turnrobust.com 78
Dust Collection
American Fabric Filter www.americanfabricfilter.com 79 Fortune Oneida www.woodcraft.com 47 www.oneida-air.com 23 &73
Hand Tools
Thomas Flinn Affinity Tool Works Kreg Radar Carve www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk 72 www.affinitytool.com 78 www.kregtool.com 15 www.radarcarve.net 79
Power Tool Accessories
Wood & Veneers

Aromatic Red Cedar n/a Northwest Bamboo Woodfinder www.nwbamboo.com 79 www.woodfinder.com 79
Woodcraft Franchise www.woodcraftfranchise.com 11 www.woodpeck.com 13
TMI PRODUCTS
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Ergonomic Kraftform Handle designed to fit perfectly in the users hand and reduce fatigue.
Lasertip bites itself into the head of the fastener to ensure a perfect fit and reduces camout. This reduces or prevents surface damage from slipped drivers. Torque transfer is increased while reducing the down pressure required to keep the screwdriver engaged.
6 Include Screwdriv er s: 4 Slo tted, 2 Set Phillips Part #0 334/6 510565000
Handle Markings on top of the handle include the screw symbol and the tip size to easily find the right screwdriver.
Soft Grip Stylus Kits

Use our kit to create your own custom Capacitive Soft Touch Stylus for your touch screen devices. Kit features a non-marring (marking) Capacitive Soft Touch Silicone Stylus Tip that will work on popular touch screen devices such as the iPad, iPhone, Android, and similar products. Soft rubber grip provides hours of fatigue free surfing.
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To Find Your Local Woodcraft Store Or For A Free Catalog, Visit woodcraft.com Or Call 1-800-225-1153. 13WD09H
The Market WorldMags.net

Aromatic Red Cedar
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The Market
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No shop is complete without a good router table. Build a workhorse that does it all, from storing bits and accessories to precise machinery of project parts. Features include mobility, superior dust collection, and a solid shop made top. #151220 Router Table Paper Plan $12.99 #151220D Router Table Download $12.99
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The American Woodshop
www.wbgu.org/americanwoodshop
Woodcraft is pleased to continue sponsorship of The American Woodshop with Scott and Suzy Phillips, now in its 20th season on PBS. Season 20 re-creates restored furniture accents for every home. See the innovations that Rebuild, Recycle and Renew beautiful spaces!!!! Get your Tools Out!!! Join Scott and Suzy to get the most out of your woodshop tools! See new tools, glues and finishes in action.
Since 1928, Woodcraft has been committed to providing quality tools, supplies and advice to our customers. From providing in-store classes and demonstrations to funding educational woodworking programming, Woodcraft has remained steadfast in our commitment to the beginner, intermediate and experienced woodworker for over 80 years running.
R OB COSMAN
www.thomasjmacdonald.com
We are also proud to provide major funding for the two-time Daytime Emmy Award-nominated public television series, Rough Cut Woodworking with Tommy Mac. Join Tommy and Eli Cleveland for Season 3, which promises interesting side trips, including an episode on how wine barrels are made in Napa Valley, California. Look for Tommys blog featuring a post called Over a Barrel.
Image of Tommy MacDonald Photo Anthony Tieuli for WGBH Educational Foundation
YOUR HAND TOOL COACH
www.RobsWorkshop.com
Woodcraft is privileged to partner with Rob Cosman,Your Hand Tool Coach, featured on the educational handtoolworkshop.com. Rob Cosmans daily online episodes teach the proper use of hand tools and power tools in a motivational and educational way. Hand-tool demonstrations are Tuesdays and Thursdays, and power tools are demonstrated Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Purchase any WoodRiver Hand Plane, and receive a one-month FREE subscription to Robs online workshop.
Woodcraft Stores In Your Area:

Alabama Birmingham/Pelham: 205-988-3600 Arizona Phoenix/Chandler: 480-539-9663 Tucson: 520-742-9663 California Orange County/ Stanton: 714-899-1422 Sacramento: 916-362-9664 San Francisco Bay Area: Dublin: 925-875-9988 San Carlos: 650-631-9663 Ventura: 805-658-9663 Colorado Colorado Springs: 719-266-9889 Denver: 303-290-0007 Loveland: 970-292-5940 Connecticut Hartford/Manchester: 860-647-0303 Norwalk: Woodworker's Club 203-847-9663 Delaware Wilmington/New Castle: 302-323-0400 Florida Jacksonville: 904-721-9796 Orlando: 407-260-5002 Tampa/Clearwater: 727-532-6888 Georgia Atlanta: 770-587-3372 Hawaii Honolulu: 808-841-9876 Idaho Boise: 208-338-1190 Illinois Chicago Area: Libertyville: 847-680-9663 Woodridge: 630-435-9663 Indiana Indianapolis: 317-578-3400 Kansas Kansas City/Lenexa: 913-599-2800 Kentucky Lexington: 859-231-9663 Louisville: 502-671-0900 Maryland Rockville: Woodworker's Club 301-984-9033 Massachusetts Boston/Woburn: 781-935-6414 Boston Walpole: 508-668-2413 West Springfield: 413-827-0244 Michigan Detroit Area: Canton: 734-981-6808 Sterling Heights: 586-268-1919 Grand Rapids: 616-957-9663 Saginaw: 989-249-6662 Minnesota Minneapolis/ Bloomington: 952-884-3634 Missouri St. Louis/ Maryland Heights: 314-993-0413 New Hampshire Portsmouth/Newington: 603-433-6116 New York Rochester: 585-292-9690 North Carolina Charlotte/Matthews: 704-847-8300 Greensboro: 336-235-0900 Raleigh: 919-781-1911 Ohio Cincinnati: 513-407-8371 Cleveland/Oakwood: 440-232-7979 Columbus: 614-273-0488 Dayton: 937-438-1282 Toledo: 419-389-0560 Oklahoma Oklahoma City: 405-748-8844 Tulsa: 918-384-0100 Oregon Eugene: 541-685-0677 Portland/Tigard: 503-684-1428 Pennsylvania Allentown: 610-351-2966 Harrisburg: 717-939-6770 Philadelphia/ Downingtown: 610-873-5660 South Carolina Greenville: 864-627-8760 Tennessee Johnson City: 423-282-9973 Knoxville: 865-539-9330 Nashville: 615-599-9638 Texas Austin: 512-407-8787 Dallas/Addison: 972-241-0701 Fort Worth: 817-569-0777 Houston: 281-880-0045 South West Houston: 281-988-9449 San Antonio: 210-545-5885 Utah Salt Lake City/ South Jordan: 801-566-5652 Virginia Leesburg: 703-737-7880 Norfolk: 757-466-1166 Richmond: 804-355-3945 Roanoke: 540-366-7144 Springfield: 703-912-6727 Washington Seattle: 206-767-6394 Spokane: 509-892-9663 West Virginia Parkersburg: 304-485-4050 Wisconsin Appleton/Fox Cities: 920-730-9663 Madison: 608-273-8868 Milwaukee/New Berlin: 262-785-6770
For A Free Catalog Or To Find Your Local Woodcraft Store, Visit woodcraft.com Or Call 800-225-1153. 13WD09P
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INTRODUCING THE NEW 1221VS LATHE

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STAND BEHIND YOUR WORK

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WIN $15,000 in Powermatic Tools p.

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4 All-Star Shop Projects

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WorldMags.net Whats The Secret To Flawless Edge Proles With NO REWORK?

Freuds Quadra-Cut 4 Cutter Design Router Bits

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Innovative Solutions for Wood Finishing

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Aug/Setp 2013 Volume 9, Issue 54

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Photo: Brian Francis

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