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February/March 2012

CRANBERRYSAUCE
Dolores ORiordanis back
THEFILMCLUB
Meet theIrishmovie-makers
SPANISHGOLD
Discover themagicof Madrid
COOKSCOUNTY
Takeagourmet tour of Waterford
INSIDERSGUIDE
TOVILNIUS
Wheretoeat, sleepandshop
48HOURSINKRAKOW
All youneedtoknowfor a
wonderful weekend
COMPLIMENTARYCOPY
Saddle
up!
On thetrail
in Florida
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AIB Corporate Banking
AIB - Irelands leading Corporate Bank
to Foreign Direct Investment
Diarmuid ONeill
Head of International Corporate Banking
AIB Corporate Banking
Bankcentre, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4
Tel: +353 1 641 4808
Email: diarmuid.e.oneill@aib.ie
www.aibcorporate-fdi.com
AIB Corporate Banking is a registered business name of Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c.
Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. Registered Offce:
Bankcentre, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, Ireland. Registered in Ireland, No. 24173
For International Companies operating in Ireland,
AIB is the Corporate Bank of choice.
Sharing Your
Vision in Ireland
Were a corporate bank that thinks globally. We see the big
picture we do everything we can to support visionary ideas.
Were experienced, with dedicated teams working in sectors in
which they have specifc expertise. We strive to fulfl all your
banking requirements and overseas companies locating here
have benefted from that for years.
We have a dedicated unit focused on Foreign Direct Investment
in Ireland. But we also remember that, for a company setting
up a business in Ireland, getting the fnance in place is just
the frst step. Because its not just about supporting business
requirements, its about supporting people, and making the
move as simple as possible.
In an increasingly complex business world, AIB Corporate
Banking still believes in keeping it personal.
www.aibcorporate-fdi.com
FEATURES
26 THE FILMCREWIts lm festival time in
Dublin; Edel Coey interviews some of the
movers and shakers appearing in this years fest
36 COMINGUP ROSES Singer Dolores
ORiordan of The Cranberries is back with
her rst album in over ten years;
Tony Clayton-Lea meets her
42 WILD AND GREEN Waterford for gourmets?
Aingeala Flannery takes a foodie tour
52 SPANISH GOLD For nightlife, its
got to be Madrid; Ingmar Kiang
enjoys the social whirl
60 THE WILD SIDE OF
ORLANDOIf you like wildlife,
youll love Orlando. Oda
OCarroll goes hunting in
Central Florida
79 AIRSPACE An extract from
writer Joseph OConnors
commemorative poem penned on
the anniversary of Aer Linguss 75th
birthday
Contents February/March
NEWS
06 arrivals We snap Aer Lingus
passengers as they arrive home
to Dublin Airports T2
09 news diary Save the date
February and March events you
cant miss
10 news hoTel FromIrish
grandeur to Berlin cool, we select
the prime stays
12 news resTauranT
Whats hot on the culinary scene?
We dish it up
14 news business The best bars
for business drinks; and Frank
Keane of MKO Partners on his
favourite city
16 news shopping All you need
for a trip to the slopes;
Sive OBrien has gadgets to go
18 news people My Travel Tips
Shelly Corkery of Brown Thomas
on travel how-tos; plus
fashion-led hotels
20 news people Whats in my
Suitcase designer TomMaxwell
on his travel style
22 news books Shelf Life
Bridget Hourican on the
latest releases
REGULARS
72 48 hours: inkrakwThe
lowdown on Krakws top spots;
Orna Cunninghamshares the
knowledge
75 an insiders guide To
vilnius Dubliner and singer
Erica Jennings shows us her
favourite places
83 aerlingus inFlighT Onboard
entertainment for passengers
TV, lm, radio and more
104Trip oF a liFeTiMe Irish
theatre director Lynne Parker on
a memorable trip to Berlin
42
caramagazine.com August 2011 | 1
February/March 2012
cranberrysauce
Dolores ORiordanis back
TheFilMclub
Meet theIrishmovie-makers
spanishgold
Discover themagicof Madrid
cookscounTy
Takeagourmet tour of Waterford
insidersguide
Tovilnius
Wheretoeat, sleepandshop
48hoursinkrakow
All youneedtoknowfor a
wonderful weekend
complimentarycopy
Saddle
up!
on thetrail
in Florida
cover
Dave Remenaric of Cactus
Jacks Trail Rides in Ocala,
Florida, photographed by
Peter Matthews
60
Onboard in
Orlando
Gourmet
Waterford
52
The marvels
of Madrid
36
Singer Dolores
ORiordan
returns
16
Smart
ski-wear
EDITORIAL
Editor Frances Power
Editorial Consultant Laura George
Editorial Assistant Cassie Delaney
Contributors Sive OBrien, Amanda Cochrane,
Liz Dwyer
ART
Art Director Clare Meredith
Acting Art Director Joanne Murphy
ADVERTISING
Account Director Clodagh Edwards,
00 353 (0)1 271 9634
clodagh.edwards@image.ie
Ad Manager Noelle OReilly,
00 353 (0)1 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie
Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan,
01 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie
ADMINISTRATION
Head of PR&Promotions Linda McEvitt
00 353 (0)1 271 9643, linda.mcevitt@image.ie
Oce Manager Tina Koumarianos
Accounts Olga Gordeychuk
BOARDOF DIRECTORS
Managing Director &Publisher
Richard Power, richard.power@image.ie
Chairman Patrick Dillon-Malone
Director Ann Reihill
Director Robert Power
PRINTINGBoylan Print Group
ORIGINATIONTypeform
Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by
Image Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire,
Co Dublin, Ireland, 00 353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising
sales, 00 353 (0)1 271 9625; fax 01 280 8309; image.ie,
email info@image.ie. Company registration number
56663
Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial
material and opinions expressed in Cara Magazine
do not necessarily reect the views of Aer Lingus
or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and Image
Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the
advertising content. Please note that unsolicited
manuscripts or submissions will not be returned.
All material is strictly copyright and all rights are
reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited
without prior permission fromImage Publications Ltd.
Cara Magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.
Image Publications Ltd is a member of the Press
Council of Ireland and supports the Oce of the Press
Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit
pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie
Image Publications Ltd
PUBLISHINGCOMPANY OF THE YEAR 2010
TOADVERTISE PLEASE CALL NOELLE OREILLY
ON00 353 (0)1 271 9621 OR EMAIL
NOELLE.OREILLY@IMAGE.IE
Contributors
Last June, Trevor Hart set o to photograph
Irelands horse racing set in the Curragh for Cara.
It turned out to be what we call a soft day. In
other words, the rain was so torrential, we almost
cancelled the shoot. But we had reckoned without
Trevors resourcefulness. His shots captured
something very special. They showed racing as it
really is, full of excitement, colour and, of course,
mud, see left. Were delighted that the judges of
the Irish Magazine Awards agreed with us and
have awarded Trevor the prestigious Photographer
of the Year prize. His work that day, they said, was
stunningly good to look at, capturing its subject
with exceptional character and speaking volumes
about Ireland with a really contemporary feel. We
couldnt have said it any better ourselves.
caramagazine.com AUGUST 2011 | 1
CORKFOR
GOURMETS
Followthefoodietrail
SEBASTIAN
BARRY
Onthewriters life
HOURS
inBarcelona
COMPLIMENTARYCOPY
CLUB turf THE
Meet Irelands racingset
August 2011
C
ara
M
agazine
A
ugust20
11
Followthefoodietrail
Onthewriters life
inBarcelona
COMPLIMENTARYCOPY
August 2011
C
ara
M
agazine
A
ugust20
11
e
Travel writer Oda OCarroll has written guides to France,
Ireland, Corsica and the Caribbean for Lonely Planet books
and has made several documentaries for television. She lives
in Dublin with her husband and three children. This was her
rst assignment for Cara. Id forgotten how much fun being on
the road in America is, the last time I drove from coast to coast
was with friends over ten years ago in a clapped-out Cadillac.
Central Florida never ranked highly on my must-see list but it
was a revelation I had a blast. I was astonished at how beautiful
and rugged it is, especially in the Ocala region, just north of
Orlando. You only ever hear about the theme parks. You can
read all about her trip on page 60.
An American based in Dublin, photographer Peter Matthews
travels all over Ireland, Europe, and the US for Cara Magazine
and on commissions for a plethora of other publications,
including GEO Magazine, National Geographic Traveler and
Newsweek. For this issue, Peter ew to Florida to shoot the
wildlife around Central Orlando, see page 60. I never imagined
Id encounter more than Mickey Mouse and a slew of theme
park critters. This trip was a revelation as we found a wonderful
abundance of real stretching far beyond the palaces of the
hyper real.
Arrivals
6 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
This month in Dublin Airports T2, Cara magazine
bumped into eets of returning expats and holiday
makers. Photographs by Anthony Woods.
GERALDINE MORDAUNT, left,
and her daughter, SIOBHAN, right, are
serious globetrotters. Siobhan lives in
New Zealand, and Geraldine and her
husband live in the Middle East. Both
have just own from Barcelona back to
their native Dublin to visit family.
Limerick natives PAUDIE ODWYER
and AINE OREILLYreturn home from
Australia laden with baggage.
JAVIER ROCHA, right,
from Northern Spain, moved
to Ireland four years ago and
ANA DIEGUEZ, left, recently
joined him. Both have own in
from Madrid where they
were visiting family.
JOYEUSE
NDIKUMANA stops
for a photo before
heading home to
Limerick after a
holiday in Belguim.
Older sisters
SHAUNA, far
left, and SIMONE
CULLEN, far right,
are at T2 to greet
younger siblings
CAOIMHE, left, and
ISSY, right, who are
just back from Sri
Lanka via London.
HILARY NIEHEUS
arrives back on Irish soil
after visiting her life-long
best friend in Dusseldorf.
EMMY LUGOYE, left, and LUCA
DALFONSO, right, return to Dublin
from Barcelona, wrapped up and ready
for the weather. Both are heading to
the city centre, where they work with
Roddy Doyles Fighting Words charity.
JOANNE DOYLE,
left, was waiting to
greet MICHAEL
COLEMAN, right, from
Toronto, who plans to
stay in Ireland for a few
weeks before the two
holiday in Morocco.
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Arnotts new Technology & Home Appliances Department.
Whatevers next, well have it, since 1843.
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Apple iPod Touch 2011.
Panasonic Lumix
camera 2011.
1953.
Beats by Dr. Dre
Headphones 2011.
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LCD and Digital TVs, weve always brought you the latest and greatest technology. Whether youre looking for the best in
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in our newTechnology & Home Appliances Department.
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Belfast Berlin Brussels Cardiff Cork
Dublin Glasgow Lisbon Lyon Madrid
Manchester Milan Prague ...
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 9
Whats happening this spring
31
Titanic Belfast
From LA to Cobh to Belfast, the
preparations for the 100th anniversary of
the Titanics demise are under way. On
March 31, the Titanic Belfast is unveiled a
massive hulk of a building, built like the prow
of the ship, it houses a multi-dimensional
exhibition covering all things Titanic; from
her construction, launch and maiden voyage
to the terrible loss. A must. Opens March 31;
Queens Road, Belfast; titanicbelfast.com.
2
Macbeth, on tour in Ireland
Macbeth may be bloody, but
its also a rip-roaring theatrical
drama and under talented David
Horans direction the production of
Shakespeares classic by Second Age
promises to keep you pinned to your
seat. Tickets from 20. February 2 to
March 29; secondage.com.
12
Ireland v France
RBS Six Nations, Paris
The second weekend of the RBS Six
Nations championship plays on with
the French champions taking on
Ireland. Could this be the year that
Ireland banishes the Paris blues and
secures victory on French soil? Its
all happening at Stade de France,
Paris, at 8pm on Sunday, February 12;
rbs6nations.com.
Aer LIngus FLieS FROM DuBLin AnD CORk TO
pArIs, DAiLy.
13
Cheltenham, england
Whether you love racing, or dressing
up for the festivities and a utter on
a horse, Cheltenham festival is the
place to head. Tickes from 35. Runs
March 13-16; cheltenham.co.uk.
Aer LIngus FLieS FROM DuBLin, SHAnnOn
AnD CORk TO BIrMInghAM DAiLy; AnD FROM
DuBLin AnD CORk TO BrIsToL DAiLy, AnD
SHAnnOn TO BrIsToL Five TiMeS A Week.
17
st patricks Day, newYork
We had never heard of Little ireland
a district in nys Lower east Side
until we came across Big Onion
Walking Tours. For something totally
dierent on Paddys Day, join them
for a fresh perspective on the role
immigrant irish played in the city.
Tickets from $18. Tour starts 11am,
March 17, from outside St Pauls
Chapel, Broadway; bigonion.com.
Aer LIngus FLieS FROM DuBLin TO new
York DAiLy.
news DIArY
February/March
16
Jacoby &pronk, holland Dance Festival
Drew Jacoby, known as Hollands dance goddess, and
Rubinald Pronk, Hollands sexiest ballet dancer ever,
come together, left, in a sultry piece choreographed
by itzik Galili. Sparks will y in their performance at
the annual Holland Dance Festival. korzo Theatre, Den
Haag, netherlands. Tickets from 17.50. Runs February
16-18; holland-dance.com.
Aer LIngus FLieS FROM DuBLin TO AMsTerDAM, DAiLy
10 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
news hotel
Ballyfin, laois
If youre yearning after the Downton
Abbey experience, book in here. Youll
get the ve-star treatment from the
moment you arrive and it wont feel like
a hotel stay, more like a country house
weekend. This restored neo-classical
house is a showpiece of the best of 19th
century craftsmanship with marble and
parquet oors and ornate replaces. The
house, with just 15 bedrooms, manages to
be relaxed and comfortable and their
new relaxation package oers lunch on
arrival, Voya massage and seaweed bath,
and ve course dinner tasting menu in
the grand State dining room. Packages
from 1,210 per couple. Ballyn, Co
Laois, 057 875 5866; ballyn.com.
Blakes hotel, london
If youre looking for a romantic break, the
newCorfu Suite at Blakes Hotel should be
on the shortlist. In French Provenal style, all
pale shades of creamand white, with a king-
sized four poster bed, wafty gossamer-thin
drapes and mother-of-pearl inlaid furniture,
its a seductive spot (and theres plenty of
Bang & Olufson techno gizmos to keep
kidults happy). With 24-hour roomservice,
theres really little need to step outside, but
the adventurous are well-placed to hit the
museums, art galleries and the big-name
department stores such as Harrods and
Harvey Nicks. Rates from599.
33 Roland Gardens, SW7, 0044 207 370
6701; blakeshotels.com.
aerlingus FLIeS FROmDuBLIN, SHaNNON, CORk
aNDBeLFaST TOlondonheathrowDaILY.
relais Villa Vittoria,
lake Como
Imagine lying by an innity pool, glass
of champagne in hand, surrounded
by mountains, lakes and sta with
canap menus. Picture Jacuzzis,
pampering and hot stone massages. If
youre planning a weekend break, the
Relais Villa Vittoria overlooking Lake
Como is now open for 2012 bookings
and oers all of the aforementioned.
The Villa is eqipped with a mooring
where motorboats are available to
rent. Theyll even pack you a picnic
basket upon request. If views of
the lake still dont tickle your fancy,
keep an eye out for George Clooney
who famously holidays in the nearby
village of Laglio. Via Vecchia Regina,
Laglio, Italy, 0039 031 400 859;
relaisvillavittoria.it
aerlingus FLIeS FROmDuBLINTOmilan
malpensamON, WeD, FRI aNDSuN.
Love is inThe WesTbury check out their Cupids Corner Valentines Day packages, which include rose petals,
champagne, and strawberries in your roomupon arrival. From339. Grafton Street, Dublin 2; doylecollection.com.
esCape
A country house stay, romantic breaks and where to absorb Berlins cool atmosphere.
sohohouse, Berlin
We suspect Berlin may be one of the coolest places on the
planet right now, and Soho House might just be the epicentre.
Like all its sister houses (London, Babington, New York and
more), its a private members club but dont let that put you
o, its now open for bookings to all comers. Once it was the
Communist partys Politisches Bro, now its industrial chic
lobby has ping-pong tables and Damien Hirst on the walls.
Rooms are large and retro/modern, with smaller, good value
rooms under the eaves. Its got a cinema. and a rooftop pool.
and a spa and a cocktail bar and a residents club. Forget iPod
docking stations, these rooms have vintage record players and
a selection of vinyls. Leave the kids at home, and enjoy the
party. Rooms from 130 per night. Torstrae, 0049 304 050
440; sohohouseberlin.com.
aerlingus FLIeS FROmDuBLINTOBerlinDaILY.
12 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
Clos Maggiore, london
Reputably the most romantic restaurant in London, Clos Maggiore is
the only place to visit for Valentines Day. Set in a conservatory full of
luscious cherry blossomtrees, the restaurants roof opens up to make for
an unusual al fresco space in the middle of London. Try the newseasonal
ve-course tasting menu for delights such as roasted goose foie gras and
hazelnut or a slowcooked llet of Cornish cod. Non-meat eaters dont
despair. The vegetarian menu has been revamped to include dishes such as
chestnut pappardella, wild mushroomfricasse and true sauce. 33 King
Street, Covent Garden, London; 0044 207 379 9696; closmaggiore.com.
aerlingus fLieS fRoMDubLiN, ShaNNoN, CoRK aNDbeLfaST Tolondon
HeatHrowDaiLy.
Food File
Where to book in for a Barcelona pop-up and
the coolest place in New York for cocktails.
Cant cook? Become a culinary clever-clogs this spring with one-day masterclasses from
DunbroDy Cookery SChool. Busy-bees will beneft fromthe one-pot wonder class while social
butterfies will love the dinner party specialties; dunbrodyhouse.com.
tHe wayland, newyork
if youre in the east Village, the place to head for
the sharpest cocktails, a bite to eat and a laidback
feel is the shiny-new Wayland. Tipped to be the
watering hole of 2012, this cocktail bar with tiny
but super-productive kitchen manages to seem like
its always been there. Cocktails like Moonshine,
the old back Woods (apple-pie corn liquor,
homemade spiced apple bitters and apple wood
smoked ice) and the Garden Variety Margarita
(blue agave blanco tequila, ginger and kale juice,
agave nectar and smoked sea salt) set this bar
apart from its hipster neighbours. oysters are a
daily speciality, as is the braised beef. a must-try
is the roasted bone marrow with chicory slaw and
tomato jam. Local musicians also pop up regularly
to play sets of blue Grass and indie Rock. 700 east
9th Street Corner of avenue C; 001 212 777 7022;
thewaylandnyc.com.
aerlingus fLieS fRoMDubLiNTonewyork DaiLy.
CHapter one, dublin
for a big night out, there are few better
Dublin restaurants than Michelin-starred
Chapter one. Chef Ross Lewis is the man
who created the menu for Queen elizabeth
iis State banquet last year (it was a rollcall
of the best of irish artisan produce). and
so, as youd expect, dinner is a reasonably
formal, delightfully food-focused aair you
can even book a chefs table and watch the
spectacle of the kitchen sta preparing your
plate. his latest project is to introduce art to
Chapter one. first up, a work by irish-based
Norwegian artist Magnhild opdol, Running
in Pairs, which appears on the la carte
menu, as well as the wall. Will a meal here
break the bank? Not if you opt for the early
bird menu, 36.50, a snip for the best of
irish cuisine. 18-19 Parnell Square, Dublin 1,
01 873 2266; chapteronerestaurant.com.
news restaurant
Jezebels Clandestine dining, barCelona
its been aectionately nicknamed barcelonas hidden restaurant not
because of a tricky-to-nd location, but because, well, it has no actual
permanent premises. Described by owner-chef Kathleen engelhardt as
hidden adventures for intrepid gastronomes, curious culinarians and
hungry rogues, Jezebels is a pop-up restaurant and, just like the ever-
changing location (it last appeared in an antiques shop, above), the menu is
ever evolving, but always fusion food in some form think Caribbean with
a Southern twist, like crab mousse, sweet potato linguine and coca mustard
with summer vegetables. for those who want to stray o the beaten track.
Next appearances, february 11 and March 10, reservations on 0034 610 898
494; jezebelsclandestinedining.com.
aer lingus fLieS fRoM DubLiN TobarCelona DaiLy aND fRoM CoRK TobarCelona,
WeD, fRi aND SuN.
14 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
NEWS BUSINESS TRAVEL
Time-saving tips and all you need to knowabout Dublin for business. Lisa Hughes reports.
SmartTRAVELLER
1
IMBIBE One of Londons best-kept
secrets, Imbibe is a necessary port
of call for quiet drinks or chats in
the garden weather permitting.
(173 Blackfriars Road, 0044 207 922 1223;
imbibe-bar.com)
2
1 LOMBARDSTREET With its grand
dome, the opulent surroundings of
1 Lombard Street make you feel like
youre having a drink in a museum. A City
hotspot. (City of London, 0044 207 929
6611; 1lombardstreet.com)
3
THE ROYAL EXCHANGE GRAND
CAFE AND BAR Dodge the hustle
and bustle of the City with post-
meeting drinks at this Grade I-listed
building in Londons Square Mile. (Royal
Exchange Bank, 0044 207 618 2480;
royalexchange-grandcafe.co.uk)
4
PURL Inspired by the Prohibition
era, Londons latest oering for
connoisseurs of spirits is a quirkier
but relaxed setting for drinks with clients.
(50 Blandford Street, Marylebone,
0044 207 935 0835; purl-london.com)
5
LOUNGELOVER Show youve got
your nger on the pulse of Londons
bar scene by whisking colleagues o
to this funky, high-end bar, below, thats
never boring. (1 Whitby Street, 0044 207
012 1234; loungelover.co.uk)
5BESTBARSINLONDON
FORBUSINESSDRINKS
56%
of business travellers
use mobile technology
to searchfor and book
hotels onthe move
FRANKKEANE
Founding partner at Dublin-based
MKO Partners, chartered accountants,
Frank Keane travels regularly to the
UK, Europe and the Far East but his
favourite city to do business in
is closer to home.
Dublin is my
favourite city
because It is compact and
friendly with a high level of
connectivity in the business
community. Any service an
international business may
require is just a phone call
away from someone you
know. It makes Dublin unique.
Getting around Dublin
Public transport has come
on in leaps and bounds and
includes a successful city bike
scheme (dublinbikes.ie) and a
LUAS (luas.ie) light rail system,
which connects the city
centre with the Docklands,
major train stations and a
number of suburban areas.
Best spot for business
lunches Ely HQ(01 633
9988) in the Docklands is both
convenient and aordable; its
Grand Canal Square branch
has a great atmosphere and
Chez Max (01 661 8899)
on Baggot Street is a
favourite for simple food
with a French twist.
Best hotel for business
travellers The Merrion
Hotel (merrionhotel.com)
unbeatable location,
atmosphere, a great bar
and cellar restaurant and
all at very reasonable cost
compared to New York
or London.
Best spot for business
drinks ... ODonoghues and
Toners on Baggot Street,
Caf en Seine on Dawson
Street or the Shelbourne Bar
on St Stephens Green, all
serve great pints of Guinness!
On Irelands
competitiveness as a
place to do business The
message here is close to my
heart Im currently nalising
a non-commercial Gateway to
Europe Expo in the Seaport
Hotel Boston. There, free for
attendees, we will outline
how Ireland is again very
competitive for the major
expenditure items such as
the low direct corporate
taxes, property-related costs,
professional fees and stang
costs. Prices for Irish hotels
and restaurants have also all
declined in recent years.
Reasons to do business
in Dublin Ireland
rightly has a global
reputation as a perfect
home for high-growth
companies and nancial
services vehicles and as
a gateway to Europe and
stepping stone to Asia. The
need to explain exactly
why it has this reputation
has inspired the upcoming
Expo, which will inform US
entrepreneurs, corporates
and their advisors on the
real world practicalities of
business in Ireland.
Budget business travel tip
Spending more on a hotel
that is closer to your meeting
place always pays
dividends.
The Gateway to Europe Expo
takes place in Boston on March
27. For more information, see
gatewaytoeurope2012.com.
LITTLEBLACKBOOKDUBLIN
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Matheson Ormsby Prentice. Lawyers of choice for international companies
and fnancial institutions doing business in and through Ireland.
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Take to the slopes with the hottest
new gear. By Sive OBrien.
TOgO
news shOpping
1
2
3
4
5
7
6
9
10
11
8
Gadgets
1 SKI GOGGLES Anon, 95 at simplypiste.com.
2 CHRONOGRAPHWATCHSector Exp90, 99 at
Fields 3 SKI GLOVES The North Face, 58.50 at Fifty
Three Degrees North, Carrickmines, Dublin 18
4AVALANCHE RESCUE KIT Ortovox, 420 at
skibartlett.com5 BOARDTUningKiT Dakine, 55
at Snow+ Rock, DundrumTown Centre,
Dublin 16 6 SNOWBOARD Roxy, 446 at
Quiksilver, Stephens Green Centre, Dublin 2
7 wATeRpROOF CAMeRA Speedo
Aquashot, 110 at giftgenies.com 8 sKi
heLMeT Bern, 75 at amazon.co.uk
9 gps wATeRpROOF FiTness wATCh
Garmin, 284 at memoryc.com 10 sKis 2,500
at Chanel 11 eARphOnes Plattan by Urbanear,
60 at urbanear.com.
JOINUS ANDHELP MAKE ITTHE
FRIENDLIEST DAY OF THE YEAR
Theres nowhere like Dublin to celebrate St Patricks day. Its the friendliest city on the friendliest
day of the year. And where else would you spend a day like that than at the Guinness Storehouse?
The very centre of friendliness. This year, to get everyone in the mood, well be putting on
some great food, live music and a pint or two of the black stuff itself. Well, when youve learned
our time-honoured brewing secrets, how could you resist? And because theres just too much
friendliness for a single day, the celebrations will stretch over three, from Friday 16th to
Sunday 18th March, 9.30am- 7pm. Come along and help make St. Patricks day ofcially the
friendliest day of the year. Youll nd thousands of new friends waiting to welcome you.
Book online at www.guinness-storehouse.com for a 10% discount on adult tickets.
Visit and to nd out more.
MARCH 16TH - 18TH
ST. PATRICkS FeSTIVAl 2012
The GUI NNESS and GUI NNESS STOREHOUSE words and associ at ed l ogos are t rademarks. ( c) Gui nness & Co. 2012
STRAP
18 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
The Brown Thomas Fashion Director talks to
Sive OBrien about the glamorous world of fashion.
MYFAVOURITE PLACE
TOHOLIDAYIS ...
Sardinia, its such a beautiful
island. Both my partner and
I have such a hectic life in
retail, its a special place
we can totally escape
to, wind down and
settle in to the relaxed
Italian way of life.
MYFAVOURITE CITY
IS ... Paris, I lived there after
school for a year to study
French so I have an anity
with it. On a recent trip, I
took a little extra time to
see Coco Chanels
apartment and Marie
Antoinettes private
apartment in Versailles
both were fascinating. New
York city is a close second, I
love downtown NY for the
incredible shopping and the
buzzy atmosphere.
IMAFREQUENT
TRAVELLER ... so I
navigate the airport like a
pro: I use fast track, the
lounges and never y
without a big bottle of water
and I never eat on ights.
INIRELAND, WE
HOLIDAYIN... Kinsale with
family, I love the area and
especially the restaurants,
Kenmare is a favourite too,
we head there to chill out
and walk, cycle, swim or just
enjoy meals in the
surroundings of The Park
Hotel.
IMAGOODPACKER ...
well, I do travel a lot so I
need to have it down to a
ne art. The secret is to put
tissue paper around
everything often we
have quick stops and a tight
schedule so theres no time
for pressing.
THE MOST
INTERESTINGPEOPLE I
HAVE MET ARE ... Diane
von Furstenberg, shes so
animated and Victoria
Beckham, whos extremely
hands-on with her fashion
label, shes also very
personable and talks us
through the collection
directly, each season. Stella
McCartney is another
dynamic person and so nice
to be around her latest
collection for spring is her
best ever.
I WOULDLIKE TOMEET
... Miuccia Prada, she
fascinates me with her
outside the box ideas. For
spring, she has managed to
make an American cadillac
print look cool on a chion
skirt amazing.
THE BEST RUNWAY
SHOWIS ... the Chanel
Show in Grand Palais, Paris.
Its the most wonderful and
extravagant fashion
spectacle at Fashion Week
the designer Karl
Lagerfeld knows how to put
on an unforgettable show,
every single time.
BUYINGIS ... an
addiction its such a
challenge to get it right but
when you do, the buzz is
palpable.
MYFAVOURITE
COLLECTIONS TOBUY
ARE ... Prada, Alexander
McQueen, Lanvin and Dries
Van Noten. When Im
viewing a collection, I look
for feminine glamour, I like
mixing old and new and
contradictions like teaming
fabric combinations such as
silk with leather ... most of all
I love simplicity and luxury.
Shelly may be based in Dublin but, for fve months of the year, she travels
the globe in search of the hottest fashion collections to bring to the Irish
market. Its a job that involves a keen eye and a strong sense of the next
big thing. Te average week might involve travelling abroad to meet with
designers or to view and select from the next seasons collections. When
Shelly is not jetting around she relaxes with her nine-year-old daughter and
partner, Paul Kelly, managing director of the Selfridges department store
group in London.
3FASHION-LEDHOTELS
1
Maison Moschino, Milan, Italy
Where better to locate a fashion
hotel than the fashion capital of the
world? The Moschino fashion brand
has done just that and transformed a
neoclassical 1840s railway station into a
design triumph. Inside are 65 fairytale-
themed rooms containing design quirks
such as giant teacup coee tables or
pillows designed as pastries, left. Rooms
from187; maisonmoschino.com.
2
The g hotel, Galway For a touch
of vogue closer to home, try the g
hotel. Inspired by a dolls house,
milliner Philip Treacy has designed
a series of eye-popping lounges (the
bedrooms are more sedate) from a
shocking pink salon with psychedelic
swirly carpets, to a golden lounge. The
place to stay or meet for cocktails if
youre at the Galway races. Rooms
from 150; theghotel.ie.
3
Hotel Cheval Blanc, Courchevel
1850, France Set in the
upmarket end of the ski resort,
Hotel Cheval Blanc was opened by the
Louis Vuitton Mot Hennessy (LVMH)
empire in 2006 and gives access to the
vast playground of Les Trois Valles.
Flirt with the summits but leave time for
a visit to the hotel spa or the designer
boutiques onsite. Prices on application;
chevalblanc.com.
Shelly Corkery
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20 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
WHATS IN MY SUITCASE
1 WAX JACKET Barbour, 349 at Arnotts, Dublin 1 2 NOTEBOOK Moleskine, 15.99 at Dubray Books,
26 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 3 WAYFARER SUNGLASSES Ray-Ban, 139 at sunglasses.ie 4 WOOL
SWEATER Polo Ralph Lauren, 186 at my-wardrobe.com 5 PLAID WOOL SCARF 120 at Hackett,
21-26 South Anne Street, Dublin 2 6 SMARTPHONE HTC Desire HD, 450 at htc.com 7 SEAMASTER
WATCH Omega, 6,000 at Brown Thomas 8 DIGITAL CAMERA Canon EOS 500D, 650 at elara.ie 9
DECK SHOES Dubarry, 130 at Fitzpatricks, 76 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 10AFTERSHAVE Acqua di Gio by
Giorgio Armani, 54.50 at Arnotts 11 LEATHER HOLD-ALL 399 at Tommy Hilger
1
St Patricks Day on ice No
parade, no oats, no ceil, but a
weekend in an ice hotel, above, in
the mountains of Romania, accessible
only by cable car, where the dress
code for dinner is anything green,
and you dine in the catacombs of a
Gothic church, before drinks in the
local Irish-owned pub. Next day its
Draculas castle and a nal night in
Bucharest. Dont forget to pack your
shamrock. Packages from 445 per
person; icehotelromania.com.
2
Walk this way What to do
in Dublin after the Parade?
Make like St Patrick with a
walking tour around the city through
early Christian sites. Youll take
in Christchurch and St Patricks
cathedrals as well as Dublin Castle.
All walkers get a discount on entry to
the Guinness Storehouse and its free
on March 17 to anyone named Patrick!
Tickets from8. Tour starts 2pm,
from College Green, Dublin 2, 16-19
March; walkingtours.ie.
3
Something in the Sky The
Wexford Quays provide the
backdrop for a jaw-dropping
pyrotechnic display at the National
Lotterys Skyfest, the grand nale
of the St Patricks Day celebrations.
This years festival boasts a rst a
300m wide curtain of cascading
silver re, the largest rework ever
in Ireland. Who needs the aurora
borealis? Wexford Quays, 19 March;
stpatricksfestival.ie.
4
Paddys Day, Chicago
Whoever said, its not easy
being green never spent St
Patricks Day in The Windy City.
Watch the Chicago River go green at
10. 45am on the day and stick around
for the parade at noon. And for a
more serene view of the river when
the festivities cease, stay in Trump
International Hotel and Tower. Water
view rooms from $372 per night;
401 North Wabash Avenue, 001 877
458 7867; trumpchicagohotel.com.
4
BEST
ST PADDYS
DAY JAUNTS
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TomMaxwell
At just 27 years of age, this Irish industrial designer
has already designed what has been labelled the
best new toy to emerge in years. Te Turbospoke
is a roaring success all over the globe (in more
ways than one) its an engine sound and exhaust
system for kids bikes, which pimps up regular
bicycles and at the same time, inspires a whole
new generation of potential mini Formula
One champions. When Tom Maxwell is not at
home in Waterford, restoring his classic cars
(currently a Triumph TR6 and Classic two
door Range Rover), hes on the toy trade circuit,
globe trotting to Hong Kong, London, New
York, Toyko and Melbourne or busy blogging;
turbospoke.com. Sive OBrien
Book online today to receive a 10% discount...
The Old Jameson Distillery Dublin, Bow Street, Smithfeld, Dublin 7.
E: reservations@ojd.ie T: +353 (0) 1 807 2355 F: +353 (0) 1 807 2369
The Jameson Experience, The Old Distillery, Midleton, Co.Cork.
E: bookings@omd.ie T: +353 (0)21 461 3594 F: +353 (0)21 461 3704
www.tours.jamesonwhiskey.com
VISIT US TODAY!
OPEN 7 DAYS GUIDED TOURS WHISKEY TASTING
JAMESON DISTILLERY
TOURS IRELAND
1
DISCOVER
Learn the true meaning of
the Angels Share & Triple
Distillation while on your
Tasting and Tour.
EAT
2
Enjoy lunch or
simply a snack in
our Restaurant.
3
SHOP
Browse our
Jameson Gift Shop
for that exclusive
gift idea.
22 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
Beauty on the go
The smartest advice for travellers, by Liz Dwyer.
MY BEAUTY MUSTS
Aisling McDermott
is one half of the
brains behind
Irelands much-
loved and
award-winning
blog, beaut.ie.
Her second book,
Gorgeous to Go (Gill &
Macmillan, 12.99), has recently
hit the shelves and is packed
with information on the best
products out there. Here she
shares her spring beauty
regime.
I cant get by without
facial oils. I love them, and
I particularly like AKin and
Trilogy Rosehip oils super
nourishing, hydrating and
jam-packed with natural
antioxidants. A great trick is to
mix a couple of drops of oil
into your regular moisturiser
to give your skin an extra
boost against those March
winds.
Lips and tips suer incredibly
during frosty weather. While
those little tins of Vaseline are
cute, bear in mind that pure
petroleum jelly will only provide
a barrier and once it wears o
will leave your lips as dry as ever.
Hilariously this leads to the
condition of lip balm addiction
as soon as your balm wears
o you need to apply a new
layer to maintain moisture. Use
a balm with a combination
of ingredients to protect and
nourish Kiehls and Vichy
Aqualia both have great balms.
Top of my wish list this
year is anything from
the Tom Ford make-up
line, the foundation, in
particular its pricey
but really good. Im
also loving the eye
shadows and the
blushers. Actually
can I just get Tom
Ford himself
please?
22 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
1
The
perfect
pick-me
up for partied-
out skin: slather
on Clarins
HydraQuench
Cream-Mask,
35.50, for ten
minutes and let the
cocktail of hyaluronic
acid and Katafray bark
extract get to work
binding water to cells
and sealing in moisture.
Softer, smoother and
spongier-looking skin
guaranteed. At Clarins
counters.
2
This Tri-Enzyme
Resurfacing Gel
Mask from Elemis,
63, is the go-to-gel
when little red lumps and
unsightly aky bits are
sullying your skin. Pop
on for ve minutes and it
removes debris and dulling
cells, instantly smoothing
and perking up the
complexion. At
Harvey Nichols
Dundrum and
Elemis spas.
3
Engineered
to mimic the
eects of
our A-list favourite
oxygen facial, the
Bliss Triple Oxygen
Instant Mask, 45,
uses every chemistry
trick in the book
to give you fresher,
younger-looking skin in
under three minutes.
Great for popping on just
before touchdown. At
Brown Thomas and
Bliss counters.
4
Dermalogica
Skin Hydrating
Booster, 42.20,
for skin aggravated
and dried out by
cosmetic triggers
and erratic
environments,
this adds a huge
boost to moisture
levels. With oodles
of hyaluronic
acid to bind
water to cells,
its like a really
refreshing drink
for your skin. At
Dermalogica
salons.
SPRING SKIN SOS
Save face with these
complexion comforters.
Alas, as low humidity and central heating
leach all the moisture from the air,
skin cell hydration levels plummet,
leading to a dry, tight complexion
and fne lines, especially around the
almost permanently parched cheek
and eye area. So while a nourishing
moisturiser is paramount, exfoliation
also takes on even greater signifcance
in cold weather as dead skin cells build
up, clogging pores and reducing the
efectiveness of moisturisers and the
absorption of water. Te perfect time
then to pamper your skin with de luxe
moisturising masks and light fruit acid
(AHA) peels, to help loosen the cohesion
of dead cells on the skins surface and
allow products to penetrate the dermis
better. Here are a few extra skin boosters
to help combat chilly climes.
Skin still needs to be protected fromdamaging UVA/B rays even on sunless cloudy
days. But instead of adding product to your regime, mix a little leftover facial
sun creamfromthe summer in with your daily moisturiser to up skin protection.
NEWS BEAUTY
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Our Team
is Your Team
At our launch in 2010, we said that without people, a venue is just a building.
Since then, we have hosted over 400 events, welcoming an impressive list of
Irish and International corporate and association conferences and meetings.
Our clients, from Google to Alcatel Lucent, from TM Forum to the International
Statistical Institute, have consistently praised, above all else, the warmth, calibre,
fexibility and can-do attitude of our team.
When you book an event at The CCD, not only will you beneft from an iconic,
world-class venue in the heart of Dublin, you will also be safe in the hands of
our award-winning team, whose goal is to deliver truly amazing events on
every occasion.
In 2011 we won 9 industry awards, achieved ISO 9001 and 14001 accreditation,
and a customer satisfaction rating of 96%. In 2012, our mission is to keep
improving and innovating, to become the best conference venue in Europe.
We would love to talk to you about your next event, so call us today and
fnd out how our team can become your team.
Contact our Sales Team on: +353 1 856 0000
Email: sales@theccd.ie or visit: www.theccd.ie
C
C
D
Events
C
C
D
Technical
C
C
D
H
ospitality
24 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
Looking for
Transwonderland:
Travels in Nigeria
by Noo Saro-Wiwa
(Granta, 14.99)
out now.
Dog shows in Ibadan,
an amusement park where no one
goes on the rollercoaster (you could
die), personal ads where men are
looking for sugar mummies
sounds like one of Louis Terouxs
eccentric travelogues, but Noo
Saro-Wiwa is an insider-outsider in
Nigeria. Brought up in England, she
spent summers in Nigeria but after
the murder of her father, the activist
and playwright Ken Saro-Wiwa,
didnt go back for ten years. Now she
turns fresh eyes on the country and
fnds it stylish, sublime, beautiful
and always that little bit jagga jagga.
Various Pets Alive
and Dead by Marina
Lewycka (Fig Tree,
12.99) is out on
March 1. Te pets
include hamsters,
poodles, a chicken,
and rabbits Marcus and Doro are
1960s hippies all free love, splifs,
brown rice, lentils, and commune life.
Teir kids predictably rebel teacher
Clara craves order, broker Serge
cleans up in the City but cant tell his
parents, and Oolie Anna, who has
Down syndrome, just wants to leave
home and live independently.
Another clever farce from the
bestselling author of A Short History
of Tractors in Ukrainian.
New Ways to Kill
your Mother: Writers
and their Families by
Colm Tibn (Viking,
15.99) is out on
February 23.
Mothers get in the
way of fction, writes Colm Tibn,
they take up space that is better
occupied by indecision, by hope, by
the slow growth of a personality.
Jane Austen preferred her heroines
motherless she killed of two
mothers by natural causes and
fostered one heroine out to aunts.
Aunts seemingly make fction tick.
Tibn, a novelist much exercised by
family and a brilliant literary critic,
turns, in these 13 essays, to writers
Shelf LIFE
Fiction, fact and the books in between; Bridget Hourican reviews the latest releases.
NEWS BOOKS
family relations: Yeats and his father,
Tomas Mann and his brother and
children, Synge and his mother,
Tennessee Williams and his sister.
Trough these comic and savage tales
of family dysfunction, Tibn
illuminates literary masterpieces.
Waiting for
Sunrise by
William Boyd
(Bloomsbury,
18.99) is out on
February 16.
Vienna 1913.
Young English
actor Lysander Rief arrives in the
city to avail of the latest cure for
sexual dysfunction: psychotherapy.
He is spectacularly cured but fnds
himself under arrest and awaiting
trial. With the help of the British
embassy, he escapes via Trieste and
returns to London but he owes
British intelligence a favour, and
fnds himself drawn into a
dangerous game of wartime
espionage. Part literary thriller, part
love story, part psychoanalytic
study, Boyd plays to his strengths
with another excellent period piece.
Whos reading what
Irish writer Aifric Campbell reveals whats on her bedside table.
What are you reading? I
borrowed my mothers copy of
Philip Roths latest in Dublin at
New Year and nished it on the
plane back to Gatwick. Nemesis,
set during the 1944 polio epidemic
in Newark, is a compelling novel,
beautifully written.
I keepa fewoldfavourites by the
bedandright nowImre-reading
The Personal Journals of Captain
Scott, which were foundtucked
inside a pouch on the frozen body
of the Antarctic explorer. Its
almost exactly 100years since
Scott andhis colleagues died
on their return journey fromthe
South Pole andhis diary tells an
extraordinary story of endurance,
heroismandcamaraderie.
My Christmas present was a
Kindle, which will be perfect for
reading in the car while my son
is at football training. First up is
Justin Cartwrights novel Other
Peoples Money.
Where is your favourite place to
write? Work has kept me always
on the move and I grew to love
New York and Hong Kong, but
my favourite place in the world
to write is Inchydoney strand in
West Cork, which has a quality of
light and air that Ive never found
anywhere else. Ive written parts
of three novels in a beachfront
apartment in bursts of inspiration
that seem to rise out of the surf.
Ive tramped for miles in sun and
rain, looping across the dunes
and along the winding road
into Clonakilty. And when Im
not there I sometimes visit the
Beach Camcorder and imagine
myself perched high up on the
clis watching the surfers face
down the horizon, waiting for the
transforming wave.
Aifric Campbells latest novel, On
the Floor, 12.99, is published by
Serpents Tail on March 1.
A book/reading experience that turns into a flm? With byooks, the latest offering fromthe App Store, everyone can
turn into the kid fromThe Never Ending Story. Byooks incorporate pictures, animation and sound effects in texts. Check
out the byook take on Arthur Conan Doyles classic, Sherlock Holmes, The Adventure of the Speckled Band.
26 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
people
E
very February, Dubliners
emerge from the receding
winter into the warm
embrace of the frst big
festival of the year the
Jameson Dublin International
Film Festival (JDIFF). Tere is a
real sense of a communal carnival
as people throng cinemas, concert
halls, supper clubs and bars during
the JDIFF, which screens 130 flms
in various cinemas around the
capital city over just ten days.
Much of the attraction of the
festival is the atmosphere that takes
over the city, with local bars and
clubs getting involved and people
hoping to catch a glimpse of their
favourite flm star in search of a
quiet drink after one of the festivals
popular Q&A sessions.
Tis years festival is bigger than
ever, beftting its 10th anniversary,
and Al Pacino will be guest of
honour as he comes in for the Irish
premire of his flm, Wilde Salome,
a documentary about Oscar
Wildes play.
Despite the recession, the
Eurozone crisis and the bailout
of banks, the Irish flm industry
continues to grow. Considering how
nascent it was a mere 20 years ago,
it is almost unrecognisable today,
employing an estimated 6,000
people, from caterers to composers,
and worth approximately half a
billion euro to the Irish economy.
Tanks to the introduction of
a generous tax break, Ireland has
become a popular location for flm
production, from the likes of Steven
Spielbergs Saving Private Ryan to
Harry Potter. With beautiful and
varied landscapes for settings, along
with excellent technical expertise
in purpose-built studios such as
Ardmore, its easy to see why. And
its not just the flm industry that
benefts. According to Filte Ireland,
20 per cent of tourists visit Ireland
as a result of having seen a flm or
television series set here.
Te real thing that keeps Irish
flm going is that it continues to
thrive amongst Irish audiences.
Each year sees the flm festival
schedule get bigger and bigger:
JDIFF kicks it of, March brings
the Dingle festival in Co Kerry and
the documentary festival, Stranger
Tan Fiction, comes to Dublin
in April. Te summer is punctuated
with one of the biggest industry
festivals, the Galway Film Fleadh,
which promotes mainly Irish
flms. Te art-focused Darklight
Festival is staged in October and the
Cork Film Festival closes the year
in November.
But enough business talk! For
local cinemagoers, the Dublin Film
Festival is a rite of spring, as we
shake of the sleepiness of winter
and remember how to have fun. Its
a rare opportunity to be part of
an intimate yet mass experience of
watching once-of screenings, as
most of the flms shown will not
return to Irish cinemas. It is also
a chance to interact with onscreen
heroes (past events have included
a Q&A session with the elusive
Daniel Day-Lewis) as well as those
behind the camera, who walk the
streets and populate the bars elbow-
to-elbow with the locals.
Above all, though, it is a giant
dose of fun.
The Jameson Dublin International Film
Festival runs fromFebruary 16-26. See
jdi.comfor further details.
Its Oscar season, and in Ireland that means its time for the Dublin lm
festival and the IFTA awards (and all the fun and frocks that go with
them). Edel Coey talks to some of the people in lm both in front of
and behind the camera about what theyre showing this year.
Photographs by Linda Brownlee.
Film
The
Crew
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 27
Ian Fitzgibbon, director
Ian Fitzgibbon spent ten years
as a RADA-trained actor in
London before turning his
hand to directing. He is the
author and director of the cult
mockumentary television series,
Paths to Freedom, and directed
A Film with Me in It and the
gangster comedy Perriers
Bounty. His latest lm, Death
of a Superhero, gets its Irish
premire as the closing lm of
the Dublin Film Festival.
Death of a Superhero has
already won an audience and
jury prize at the European
lm festival Les Arcs and will
receive an American release
in April. Fitzgibbon was drawn
to the story, based on Anthony
McCartens book of the same
name, because of the central
idea of this kid who has a
very intense attitude towards
life because he knows every
minute is precious because
hes ill.
The lm stars Andy Serkis
(he of Gollum in the Lord of
the Rings trilogy and Rise of
the Planet of the Apes fame)
who Fitzgibbon describes as
a phenomenal actor. A lot of
what hes done in the past has
this extraordinary primal energy
so I was encouraging him to
think about stillness and silence.
I think he relished it because he
doesnt get to do it often.
Fitzgibbon likes to juggle
projects and is currently
working on a TV series,
Threesome, for Comedy
Central and a BBC project
called Vexed. All the directors
I admire do a lot of dierent
things. Someone like Michael
Winterbottom would do a light
comedy, followed by dark tragic
story and a bit of television. You
have to be like that in lm, keep
yourself fresh and open and not
settle into a pattern.
Death of a Superhero closes the
Jameson Dublin International Film
Festival at The Savoy cinema on
Sunday, February 26; jdi.com.
28 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
people
Andrew Lowe was, perhaps, not the most obvious
candidate for a career in lm. He studied languages
at Trinity College, Dublin, around the same time that
the Irish lm industry was taking o in the early 1990s
with lms such as Neil Jordans The Crying Game and
Jim Sheridans My Left Foot. After attending a talk
by a producer, he was inspired to pursue a career in
lm, and so spent the next three years training to be
... a chartered accountant. He managed to work as an
accountant on lm productions, which gave him an
insight into how lms are nanced from start to nish.
After two years as head of business aairs for the
Irish Film Board, he set up Element Pictures with Ed
Guiney (formerly of Temple Films). Their rst lm was
The Magdalene Sisters, which won the Golden Lion in
Venice, followed by The Wind That Shakes the Barley,
which won the Palme DOr in Cannes.
When they sawhowwell Path did distributing that lm
in Ireland, they set up a distribution armand lms such as
Garage, Adam&Paul, and last years sleeper hit The Guard,
which was recently nominated for nine IFTAs, all followed.
What I like about the producer role is its a business role
in a creative industry, says Lowe. I knewI wasnt going to
be a writer or a director so it was an opportunity to still be
part of a creative process.
Element Pictures has just reopened, and will run,
Dublins arthouse cinema, the Light House, for the
festival and beyond. The festival plays a crucial role
from an industry perspective. Its a very important
launch pad for Irish lm.
Andrew Lowe, producer
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30 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
people
Grinne Humphreys, festival director
Grinne Humphreys is a vivacious
presence, full of chat, bubbling with
enthusiasm and a blur of gesticulation.
This is her fifth year as director of the
Jameson Dublin International Film Festival
and she describes putting the programme
together as akin to completing a Sudoku
puzzle or directing air traffic at Heathrow.
Selecting the 130 films is a finely-
balanced art, taking into account
Dubliners tastes as well as the audiences
appetite for big-ticket talent. It has to be
a film you think will have some resonance
with a Dublin audience. Thats the crucial
thing. My job is to see films around the
world but you have to keep an eye on what
Irish cinemagoers are going to see. Anyone
could have told you that the success of
films like The Guard or Bridesmaids is
as much about Irish people having an
incredible sense of humour as it is about
the fact they can embrace a fantastic
range of films. The Dublin audience is
really smart; theyre not just waiting for
the rain to pass or getting through five
kilos of popcorn. Film is a real art form to
them so you have to think carefully about
what you put in the programme ... And
Dublin is so small that if you meet people
on the street, theyll tell you what they
think of it.
Humphreys is aware of her huge
responsibility to the domestic lm industry.
Weve worked really hard to try and
nd a way of creating an event to bring
international stars to Ireland and at the same
time send Irish lms out to the world.
As for how she secured this years big
attraction, Al Pacino, she jokes that she
has spent the last three years as a very
polite but very persistent international
host/stalker.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 31
Padraic Delaney, actor
Padraic Delaney is perhaps best known to Irish audiences for
his turn in the RT television drama Raw, but his roles vary
from George Boleyn in the international blockbuster TV series
The Tudors to Teddy OSullivan in Ken Loachs award-winning
feature The Wind That Shakes the Barley.
Delaney, now 34, was a latecomer to acting and says his
distinct lack of experience in amateur theatre was an advantage
when he started the Drama and Theatre Studies course at the
Samuel Beckett Centre in Trinity College Dublin. I was more
open to trying out new things.
For someone who describes himself as much happier
in the lower-budget end of the Indie market, he has had
remarkably big-budget experience to date. While upcoming
lms include a role in Indie writer Lenny Abrahamsons take
on Kevin Powers controversial book, Bad Day at Blackrock,
his latest lm, Blackthorn, a western based on Butch Cassidy
and the Sundance Kid, co-stars big hitters Stephen Rea and
Sam Shepard.
I learned lots from Stephen. He would just do something
in his approach to a scene and I would think, I didnt know you
were allowed to do that. Its dream-come-true stu. If you told
me ten years ago that Id be working with Sam Shepard who I
was studying at the time Id have told you to get lost.
Blackthorn screens at Cineworld at the Jameson Dublin International
Film Festival on Saturday, February 25; jdi.com.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 31
32 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
people people
Kate McCullough, cinematograper, director of photography
For those not familiar with the mysterious task of a cinematographer,
award-winning director of photography Kate McCullough denes it
simply as interpreting a directors story using the tools of photography.
The director is all about what theyre saying and Immore about how
its said. Theres something exciting about being able to order the
world in such a way through the frame.
McCullough studied lmat the Dun Laoghaire Institute of Art,
Design and Technology in Co Dublin, having changed her mind at the
last minute about taking a photography course. I got scared of the
idea of working on my own.
Initially, she wasnt sure if she had made the right decision. I was
quite shy. There were only about three girls in the class so I felt quite
intimidated to pick up the camera.
McCullough is nowhighly respected in the industry, having won
the World Cinema Cinematography Award (together with Michael
Lavelle) for the heartwarming documentary His &Hers at the 2010
Sundance FilmFestival. I think ultimately the best thing about making
lms is somebody coming up to you and saying, I came out of the
lmand something changed in my head, as with His &Hers where
people said, I went home and told my mumthat I loved her. For that
hour and a half youve somehowgone through another world, youve
stepped in and you can step back out again but you take a little bit of
that world with you.
McCullough recently worked on a documentary about the life of
Nuala OFaolain, called Nuala, which will premire at the Dublin Film
Festival and be screened later this year by RT. It sees broadcaster
Marian Finucane interviewing friends of the late writer. On top of
that, her short lmCluck has just been nominated for an IFTA(Irish
Film&Television Awards). Its clear the skys the limit for this young
lm-maker.
Kate McCulloughs documentary, Nuala, screens at the Light House
cinema at the Jameson Dublin International Film Festival on Saturday,
February 25; jdi.com.
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Brenda Fricker, actress
Brenda Fricker is one of
the best-known and loved
character actors of her
generation. She won an
Oscar for her role in My
Left Foot, and more recently
was nominated for an IFTA
for her role in the period
drama, Albert Nobbs, written
by Glenn Close and John
Banville, so it is somewhat
surprising to see this doyenne
of stage and screen arrive for
her photo shoot in a no-frills
outt of T-shirt and jeans,
accompanied by Jack, a
much-loved dog she rescued.
For her latest lm,
Cloudburst, she had to gain two
stone, playing a blind, ageing
lesbian who goes on a road trip
to Canada with her partner
(Olympia Dukakis) in order to
get married. Howdid she come
across the part?
It was nepotism, if you
like. Olympia is a great friend
of mine and Thom Fitzgerald
wrote the lmfor her. They
were auditioning in NewYork
and Olympia kept saying,
the only person who can do
this part is Brenda Fricker.
Eventually Thom invited me.
Fricker fell in love with the
story, a tender portrayal of love.
Its a friendship and love story
between two oul wans, two old
broads in their seventies, who
have been living together for 30
years. You dont see lms about
love and old age ever and
never between two women.
The lm is described as
Thelma & Louise if they hadnt
driven o the cli, and while it
is a love story, Fricker says:
There wasnt any sex in
it. Theres one kiss in it,
which is not even sexual,
its very loving. We
bullied the director
into changing a few
things. He wanted a
few more kisses in
it and we decided
there would just
be one and it
wouldnt be
sexual, just one
of love. I nd
that scene quite
moving.
Cloudburst
opens the
Jameson Dublin
International
Film Festival
on Thursday,
February 16
at The Savoy
cinema;
jdi.com.
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interview
36 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 37
Dolores ORiordan is glad to be back with the lads as The
Cranberries release their rst album of new material in over ten years.
She tells Tony Clayton-Lea why motherhood and life in Canada are
so good for her. Photographs by Matthew Thompson.
S
he is the epitome of
the word elfn, the
personifcation of the
word slight, but there
is nothing fragile about
Dolores ORiordan. When she
frst started performing with Te
Cranberries, she would turn her
back to the audience or keep her
eyes fxed frmly on the foor of the
stage. Shy, nervous back then, she
has subsequently bloomed into
yes Irelands most successful and
steely female rock star.
But whats this? Almost 25
years of Te Cranberries? Who
would have thought it possible?
Back in 1989, the quartet from
Limerick were the kind of ingnue
act that the more seasoned
observers of Irish rock music had
thought would wind up operations
after a few years and retire to
whence they had come from.
Clearly, those observers were wrong;
equally clearly, Te Cranberries
were tougher than perhaps even
they themselves had reckoned.
Success came quickly to the
band, resulting not only in a fan
base that adored them and their
music (notably the 1993 debut
album, Everybody Else Is Doing It,
So Why Cant We), but also media
attention, which the band members
found difcult to engage with. As
is usual in rock and pop bands,
the focus was on the lead singer, in
this instance a petite, pretty young
woman by the name of Dolores
ORiordan, whose innate durability
seemed at odds with the daintiness
of the bands music. Its fair to say
that success rested uneasily on her
slim shoulders, yet for a while in
the mid-1990s Te Cranberries
could do no wrong: two further
albums, No Need To Argue (1994)
and To Te Faithful Departed (1996)
consolidated their worldwide appeal,
making them a major, international
rock music success.
Te burden of being a
successful rock star was bravely
(and often publicly) shouldered by
ORiordan, but the way she tells it
now on the cusp of the release of
Roses, Te Cranberries frst album
of new material in over ten years
it is clear that part of those heady
R
o
s
e
s
Coming
up
interview
38 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
times were not necessarily the best
years of her life.
For anyone who gets so famous
so quickly and so young, youre
bound to be a bit of a casualty in
some fashion, says ORiordan,
looking quite the radiant 40-year-old
rock star as she holds court, al fresco,
at Dublins Four Seasons Hotel on an
unusually warm winters day. (Her
bright demeanour is underpinned
by melancholy, however, as she is in
Ireland for numerous reasons, the
most crucial of which is to spend
time with her ill father, who died
a week after this interview was
conducted.) You go through life,
and then you realise that you only
live once, and that there are some
things you might have lost or gave
away when you were young, so you
go back to fnd them.
And so in September 2003,
ORiordan and the other band
members (Noel Hogan, Michael
Hogan, Fergal Lawler) decided to
put a stop to proceedings. While
the lads (as ORiordan calls them)
took up the musical equivalent of
gardening and tending to their sheds,
ORiordan simply quit and split.
I took the break and thought
at that point that I would never go
back to making music, that in my
life I needed to fnd 100 per cent
sanity, and that I wanted to be a
mother and a wife. I didnt want to
be a famous person, or to be in a
band. I didnt want to have contracts
in my life. In short, I needed to fnd
elements of my life that I felt I had
lost. I thought Id start a diferent
life, maybe go back to school; I
started painting, as well, which was
brilliant, as there was no pressure or
pull from people to fnish with the
canvas. I found it very therapeutic,
as well as a great way to pass time
and to fnd myself, to a degree.
Well, you can take the girl
out of music but you cant take
music out of the girl, and so, as the
months passed in a quieter, softer
swirl of domesticity, motherhood
(ORiordan and her husband, Don
Burton, who married in 1994, have
three children: a son, Taylor, and
two daughters, Molly and Dakota),
painting, meditation and a teensy
bit of thumb-twiddling, ORiordan
found herself being drawn towards
the family piano.
It unfolded, and just
happened, she says of how the new
material began took shape. Tere
was no great plan or anything like
that. It was just that, despite myself,
I started writing songs when the
children were in school. And then
it dawned on me: I knew I had to
follow the very thing that I was here
to do write and sing music. And
so I fell back into doing it.
Part of the results of this
acceptance were two creatively and
commercially underperforming solo
albums (Are You Listening? in 2007
and No Baggage two years later)
that proved an important point
about chemistry and constituent
parts. Rewind to three years ago:
when ORiordan was bestowed
with honorary patron status of
Trinity Colleges Philosophical
Society, she and the lads clicked
back into Cranberries mode. I was
told to stop messing around with
the solo albums, recalls the singer
with much amusement. I was also
informed that were not getting any
younger and that we had to make
another album.
So we got back, she continues.
We did the reunion tour and it was
really successful. So many shows sold
out, which really surprised me. We
had taken seven years of from the
music, and we had all gone into our
own planets, yet when we went back
on stage it was as if we had never
left. Youd look over at the lads and
I took the break and thought
at that point that I would never
go back to making music ... that I
wanted to be a mother and a wife.
P
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interview
40 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
theres a great chemistry there, and
the crowds are there, and its as if
they never went away, either.
It seems as if, in the interim
between putting Te Cranberries
on ice and taking them out of the
freezer, ORiordan has gained a
stronger degree of self-confdence
and belief. True?
She mulls this over for a few
seconds before answering. Well,
Im 40 now, which has been great
for me. And, to be honest, Im very
happy with the fact that I have
my daughters. I was very hard on
myself, as a woman, in that I had
thought I should be this weight or
that size, and with being famous
and young it isnt just being a
woman its being a woman in the
public eye. And you know what
women are like were bitches. Oh,
were way bitchier than men ooh,
look at the size of her arse! Guys
arent like that, which is why most
of my life Ive had more male friends
than female. Its easier its like
Jekyll and Hyde with women, one
face for this and another face for
that. Were deadly!
Has she found a diferent side
to herself by the age of 40? Its
the latter, yes, because you get so
tired of being on that treadmill,
running and running and trying
to keep up the faade. Come 40,
you just couldnt be bothered with
stuf like that. And my daughters
have helped me with that, too,
in the sense that Im a role
model for them.
Im there to say
to them not to be
shallow or insecure,
or succumb to the
pressures of society in
the ways that women
are supposed to look,
appear or behave.
You have to learn to be
yourself and be strong
they wont know unless
their mother tells them. My
daughters helped me to realise
that its okay to have a bit of a spare
tyre. Who cares about that its
your heart that counts.
Indeed. ORiordan and family
left Ireland several years ago, and
now live in a secluded area north of
Toronto. Canada, she says, is very
diferent there are no of licences!
Tere are lots of Indian reserves,
which are lovely and cool. Te
wildlife is amazing and the experience
generally is out of this world. Te
seasons change dramatically.
Snow? Buckets of snow, yards
of snow, but its the culture in that
youre prepared for it, so its no
problem. Its freezing, yes, but you
have the proper clothes for it. And
theres snow ploughs everywhere
even domestic houses have snow
ploughs in order to shovel the
snow from your drive.
Does she miss Ireland?
Yes, but Ireland for me
isnt going anywhere in
that its always in me. I
can fy over and back,
anyway; I miss my family
and friends, of course.
Its time to head inside
the afternoon temperature
has taken a sudden dip, and
this, coupled with the singers
naturally refective nature, gives sway
to serious considerations. My saving
grace, I say it again, is my kids. If I
didnt have them, Im fairly sure I
wouldnt be here seriously. When
you have them you live for them; you
cant be feeling too sorry for yourself,
or worrying about yourself, when you
have kids to look after.
The Cranberries new album, Roses,
is released on February 14. The band
undertake an Australian tour from March
17, and embark on European tour dates
from the summer.
DOLOreS OriOrDAnS FAvOUrite
City I dont have a favourite
city but there are places that
Im very fond of, such as Paris,
Dublin, London, Toronto, New
York. They all have their own
signicance and warmth in
my life because Ive lived in
dierent regions.
reStAUrAnt Ive a few
favourite restaurants, but
one of the best that comes
immediately to mind is trattoria
DellArte, left (900 Seventh
Avenue, between 56th and 57th
Streets, New York; 001 212 245
9800; trattoriadellarte.com).
Its located just across from
Carnegie Hall, and has the best
pizza Ive ever tasted. Its wafer
thin, but not too crispy its
just amazing.
BAr My favourite bar is
probably the Black Swan, in
Ballybricken, Co Limerick. I grew
up in the town, and I remember
my grandparents used to go in
there its a lovely, small bar.
BOOKS When it comes to
reading I always like to have a
couple on the go at the same
time. Im reading a really good
one at the moment The Weird
Sisters, by Eleanor Brown, is
one. Its about three siblings
who go back home because
their mother has cancer. They all
live in a small village, and some
start dating guys they havent
seen in 20 years, so its a bit of a
laugh. The other book is Tinkers
by Paul Harding; its about the
death of an old man, and how his
family gather around him in his
hour of need.
MUSiC When it comes to
music, I tend to calm it down a
bit. I meditate a lot so I put on
relaxation music for that. Other
than that, my husband tends to
take over the remote control. I
try to put on Morrissey but its
no good, he just cant be listened
to! Instead, its metal, and to be
fair theres some great stu Im
hearing from the likes of Black
Sabbath, AC/DC, Led Zeppelin.
It isnt all heavy, though, as Im
also listening to a Canadian
singer-songwriter called Marshall
Dane, who reminds me of a
young Garth Brooks really
excellent. Oh and I love Sarah
McLachlans music, too.
HeartHe
musiclive
Catch Dolores ORiordan and
The Cranberries in concert and
take a summer break in Barcelona
at Poble Espanyol, on July 9, or
in Madrid where they perform
at the Palacio Vistalegre, on
July 10; tickets available at
thecranberries.com.
Roisin Fitzpatrick
Artist of the Light

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H.E. MICHAEL COLLINS, AMBASSADOR OF IRELAND TO THE U.S.
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creating more peace and joy in our lives.
ROMA DOwNEy, ACTRESS (Touched by an Angel) AND
MARK BURNETT, TV PRODUCER (The Apprentice)
brings beauty and nature together with simple elegance.
FORBES
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wALL STREET JOURNAL
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Solo Exhibitions at: LA LUNA GALLERy, wASHINGTON D.C. MARCH 1 APRIL 30 2012
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gourmet waterford
42 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 43
From foraging for fungi to the bliss of the blaa theres plenty to
keep foodies happy in Waterford and its environs. Food critic and
Deise girl Aingeala Flannery goes back to her roots to sample the
best of the region. Photographs by Anthony Woods.
andGreen
Wild
GOURMET WATERFORD
44 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
T
he word is out: Waterford
is the hottest place to eat
in Ireland. After so many
years in the hapenny
place, the so-called Deise
has made the meteoric leap from
frumpy to fashionable seemingly
overnight, when nobody was
looking. Tese days every second
person I meet quizzes me about the
best places to eat in Waterford. Why
wouldnt they? I am, after all, a food
critic and, more importantly, a
Deise girl.
What I try to impress upon
them is that Waterford has always
had a distinct food culture that
strongly supported local producers,
long before it was fashionable to do
so. When I was a child there in the
1970s, if your father didnt work
for Waterford Crystal (or the glass
factory, as it was known locally),
he worked for Clover Meats or the
creamery. Most of the men in our
family fshed for salmon on the
River Suir, but their catch wasnt
for eating it was for selling, to
restaurants and the local well-to-do.
Ofal was big in Waterford:
liver, tongue and tripe. Cheap,
nutritious cuts that were in plentiful
supply because of the meat industry.
Corned beef was popular too as
was bacon, which was often hairy.
But you wouldnt complain for fear
of being sent to eat in your aunties
house, where there could be half a
STAY AT ...
The Cli House Hotel For a
splurge to be remembered. Gorgeous
location, the luxurious rooms with
Irish artwork have oor to ceiling
glass windows overlooking Ardmore
Bay, private balconies, terraces and
verandas. Midweek overnight stays
with Michelin-starred dinner from
350 per couple. Ardmore, Co
Waterford. From 100 pps inc B&B;
024 87800; theclihousehotel.com
Hanoras Cottage Afavourite among
walkers and bird spotters in the Nire
Valley, with comfortable, well-furnished
rooms, pretty views and a Eurotoques
chef in the kitchen. Great for relaxation.
Ballymacarbry, Co Waterford. Two
nights accommodation from150 inc
B&B, packed lunch and dinners;
052 6136134; hanorascottage.com
Richmond House A lovingly restored
18th-century country house and now
a boutique hotel and a favourite with
Irish gourmets who want a break from
city life. Rooms have views of beautiful
grounds. Cappoquin, Co Waterford.
From 50 pp B&B; 058 54278;
richmondhouse.net
The Tannery Townhouse
Contemporary boutique
accommodation from
55pps perfect for
couples on a weekend
break. Have a lie-in
and freshly baked
pastries and coee
will be brought to your
room. Dungarvan, Co
Waterford. From 100
pps, incl dinner, B&B;
058 45420; tannery.ie
Waterford Castle Romantic
and grand accommodation in
large antique-lled rooms, but with
all modern conveniences. The island
location adds to the magic. Perfect
for golfers, or for families with 3 to 4
bedroom castle lodges also available
for rent. Rates start from 69pps for
a standard room pay a little more
and youll be swept o your feet. The
Island, Ballinakill, Waterford, 051 878
203; waterfordcastle.com
SELF-CATERING Beautiful country
house accommodation in a dramatic
location. Keenly pricedat 305-750a
week. DromanaHouse, Villierstown,
Co Waterford, 024 96144;
dromanahouse.com
From top, mist
rising on the
Blackwater river,
chef Martijn
Kajuiter of the
Michelin-starred
Cli House Hotel;
gourmet and
Deise girl Aingeala
Flannery.
GLASSACT
Is Waterford Crystal the
countrys most popular wedding
present? See for yourself how the
molten crystal is blown and shaped
on the factory tour in Waterford city.
Fascinating stu. House of Waterford
Crystal, The Mall, 051 317 000;
waterfordvisitorcentre.com
Guided Factory Tour, Opulent Retail Store
featuring the largest collection of the worlds
most coveted name in crystal.
House of Waterford Crystal
The Mall, Waterford City, Ireland
Call: +353 (0)51 317 000
E: houseofwaterfordcrystal@wwrd.com
www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com
GOURMET WATERFORD
46 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
Paul Flynns
Little Black Book
Anna Leveque
Cheese This young
Frenchwoman, who
is based at Killowen
Orchards in Portlaw, is a
rising star among artisan
food producers. Her
Triskel goats cheese is a
must-buy. 086 074 4534
The Country Store A
great little shop that
stocks not just fruit and
veg, but a wide range of
artisan foods including
the locally produced
Baldwins Farmhouse
Ice-cream from a
dairy herd in nearby
Knockanore. Also check
out Eunice Powers
baked goods, chutneys
and fresh ready-
meals. Brilliant stu.
Dungarvan, 058 43061;
thecountrystore.ie
Crinnaghtaun Apple
Juice Look out for the
pretty label. This juice,
made from Julia Keanes
own apple orchards, is
traditionally pressed,
golden in colour and
cloudy. Crinnaghtaun
is used by top chefs
and sold in the best
delicatessens throughout
Ireland. Cappoquin, Co
Waterford, 058 54258;
irishapplejuice.com
Dungarvan Brewing
A fantastic operation, its
beers are stocked in pubs
across Waterford and
beyond. In the Tannery,
Black Rock stout is used
for braised ox cheeks and
mussels are cooked with
Copper Coast red ale.
058 24000; dungarvan
brewingcompany.com
Knockalara Cheese
Wolfgang and Agnes
Schliebitz in Cappoquin are
world-class cheesemakers.
Their award-winning ewes
milk cheese handmade
from their own Friesland
ock is simply unbeatable.
024 96326
M&D Bakery Bakes
brilliant traditional blaas;
ones made with seaweed
(sourced from Nicholas
Paul in Waterfords Ring
Gaeltacht) were served
during last summers Tall
Ships festival. Mount Sion
Avenue, Waterford City,
051 378 080
Mary Lincoln Pottery For
gourmet visitors who want
to bring home a piece of
Waterford. Mary Lincolns
cool blue and green pottery
will beautify any dinner
table. The Cli, Ardmore,
024 94152;
ardmorepottery.com
Right, foodie heroes Paul
Flynn of The Tannery, and
below, fromtop, TomDalton
and Cormac ODwyer of
Dungarvan Ale; Agnes
and Wolfgang Schleibitz
of Knockalara Cheese;
Crinnaghtauns Julie Keane;
Conor Lannen of the Country
Store; and for the perfect
plate to serve it on Mary
Lincoln of Ardmore Pottery.
pigs head or a pot of crubeens (pigs
feet) bubbling on the range. It was
said in Waterford that the only part
of the pig you didnt eat was the
squeal. And that was true.
Potatoes Kerrs Pinks and
Golden Wonders were bought in
four-stone bags, from a farm gate
in Mooncoin. It wouldnt have
occurred to us to buy mushrooms,
when you could pick them for
nothing in a feld. Likewise, a
bought apple never tasted as good
as one stolen from a tree. Tese are
just some of the things you take for
granted when you grow up around
cows and orchards. And then there
was Bubble-Up a fzzy lemon
and lime soda sold everywhere in
Waterford, but unheard of anywhere
else in Ireland.
Yet nothing not even a chilled
bottle of Bubble-Up came close
to a blaa. Te native bread roll with
a name that only locals knew how
to spell. For hundreds of years, the
people of Waterford have eaten
blaas. Depending on the baker,
they can be soft or crusty, but are
always foury with a stretchy, chewy
texture. Among the locals, there is
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 47
eat. Another big hit is Nude Food,
where Louise Clark serves the best
lamb burgers youre likely to eat.
Quality is surely contagious because
even the pubs in Dungarvan
serve topnotch grub. Check out
Queallys, and Merrys, both of
which stock beers from the local
Dungarvan Brewery: Copper
Coast red ale, Black Rock stout and
Helvick Gold blonde ale.
Heading southwest from
Dungarvan, you will come to the
pretty fshing village of Ardmore,
where the White Horses restaurant
serves the fnest pastries and
homemade desserts around. As
you ascend the clif towards the
ancient ruins of St Declans Cell
and Holy Well, you encounter the
wonderfully located Clif House
Hotel, whose restaurant holds the
countrys only Michelin star outside
Dublin. Intrepid Irish foodies travel
to chef Martijn Kajuiters table for
his tasting menu. Expect monkfsh
and crab from Helvick Head,
Ballynatray pigeon, and Black
Angus beef, from Lismore butcher
Michael McGrath.
North of Ardmore, youll cross
the beautiful River Blackwater into
historic Lismore, dominated by
the spectacular Lismore Castle,
erstwhile home of the greatest
potato peddler of them all Sir
Walter Raleigh. Tucked away on
the Main Street youll fnd OBrien
Chophouse, a gorgeously informal
restaurant that does all it can to
promote local producers. If you
like their style, the owners of the
Chophouse, Justin and Jenny Green,
also own Ballyvolane House just
over the Cork border it has quite
the loveliest bathrooms youll fnd
in an Irish country house.
Heres a well-kept secret for
visitors who like to self-cater:
from Lismore, head for nearby
Cappoquin and Villierstown,
where you can rent a wing of
quietly, but solidly, become a well-
kept secret among foodies with an
appetite for artisan, local produce.
It began in Dungarvan, when
Paul Flynn, now a well-known name
among Irish gourmands, set up
Te Tannery Restaurant in 1997.
Some people thought we were
mad, he recalls. Imagine opening
a restaurant in an old leather factory
opposite a derelict house in a stinky
part of town, but word of mouth got
around and people were willing to
travel to eat our food.
Dungarvan today is a magnet
for visiting foodies. Te Tannery
has been recognised with a
Michelin Bib Gourmand and now
houses a cookery school. Modest to
the end, Flynn believes the towns
biggest gourmet draw is its weekly
farmers market, because, he says, it
has created a community for local
producers such as Barnawee Foods
and Knockalara cheesemakers
Wolfgang and Agnes Schliebitz. For
artisan producers, theres strength
in numbers.
Tere seems to be a gourmet
shop or caf at every turn in
Dungarvan. Tara Breens bakery
keeps the townsfolk sweet with her
legendary passion cake, while the
Country Store is a cornucopia for
locals who care about what they
Left, artisan breads at
Dungarvan farmers
market and, above,
Barbara Grubb and
Emily Villiers Stuart of
Dromona House, near
Cappoquin, a stunning
self-catering option
set high above the
Blackwater River.
great debate about the provenance
and quality of blaas. Everybody has
a favourite be they townie blaas
from Hickeys, Kilmacow blaas
from Harneys, or Cappoquin
blaas from Barrons. What is
unanimous though is: blaas are best
eaten straight from the oven and
a blaa should never travel outside
Waterford, because it contains no
preservatives and will spoil and turn
stale within hours.
I did not know that only
Waterford people ate blaas until we
moved to Dublin when I was ten
years old. Te mere utterance of
the word blaa seemed provincial
and ridiculous, so I didnt talk
about them or about Bubble Up.
Years later, when I began writing
about food, my sense of country
gaucheness was replaced with a
sense of pride about where we
came from. It was pure pleasure to
rediscover my childhood home, to
see how much it had changed and
how much of value it had held on
to. Forever playing second fddle
to the neighbouring counties of
Cork and Kilkenny when it came
to sport and culture, Waterford had
Dontmiss the southeasts foodie festivals! the WaterfordFestival of Foodruns
April 12-15; waterfordfestivaloffood.comand the WexfordFestival of Food
runs may 20-22; wexfordfoodfestival.ie.
GOURMET WATERFORD
48 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
Dromana House, perched high
above the meandering Blackwater
and surrounded by forest. Dromana
has everything you need for
gourmet self-sufciency. Down in
Cappoquin village, you can buy
blaas from the much loved Barrons
bakery, while the towns Supervalu
is inclined to support cottage
industries by stocking, among other
things, apple tarts and jams that are
locally made.
Heading east towards Waterford
city, youll pass verdant pasture.
Creamery trucks and cows have
the right of way here, but keep an
eye out also for orchards, and for
Kilmacthomas, which is home to
Flahavans porridge a staple on the
Irish breakfast table for generations.
Before you hit the city, check out
the under-appreciated (some would
say shabby) Victorian resort town of
Tramore; buy fsh and chips from
Dooleys on the Prom, and eat them
on the slip that leads onto the towns
famed golden strand. At the far end
of the beach, theres the T-Bay Surf
Caf, which is popular with locals for
good cofee and cake. Vinophiles will
appreciate Florries fne wine shop
on the Newtown Road as you head
for the Gillameen Cove. And if you
happen to be in Tramore after 9pm,
DONT MISS ...
SHOP AT ...
Ardkeen Quality Food Store,
Dunmore Road, Waterford, 051
874 620; ardkeen.com
Barrons Bakery &Coee
House, Cappoquin, Co
Waterford, 058 54045;
barronsbakery.ie
The Country Store, Dungarvan,
Co Waterford, 058 43061;
thecountrystore.ie
Florries Fine Wines, Newtown
Road, Tramore, Co Waterford,
051 393 582
M&DBakery, Mount Sion
Avenue, Waterford, 051 378 080
Michael McGrath, Butcher,
Lismore, Co Waterford,
058 54350
FARMERS MARKETS
Ardkeen Producers Market,
second and fourth Sunday of
every month; ardkeen.com
Dungarvan Farmers
Market, every Thursday;
dungarvanfarmersmarket.com
EAT AT ...
LAtmosphere A warm and
welcoming restaurant with
faultless service and authentic
French cooking that doesnt
miss a beat (Henrietta Street,
Waterford, 051 858 426;
restaurant-latmosphere.com).
The Cli House Michelin-
starred restaurant with a tasting
menu that attracts gourmet
guests from across Ireland (85
add 40 for wine pairing).
Beautiful location overlooking
Ardmore Bay (Ardmore,
Co Waterford, 024 87800;
theclihousehotel.com).
OBrien Chophouse Expect
a nicely decorated, mid-priced
restaurant with top-shelf
cooking. Local producers are
strongly supported, while
fruit, veg and eggs all come
from the owners country
house, Ballyvolane (Lismore,
Co Waterford, 058 53810;
obrienchophouse.ie).
The Tannery For exceptional
cooking fromPaul Flynn, alongside
keenly priced locally sourced
food. Stylish accommodation in
the Tannery Townhouse is also a
draw(Dungarvan, Co Waterford,
058 45420; tannery.ie).
GOOD FOR LUNCH
Harlequin Caf & Wine Bar
Small and basic looking, but
keen prices and authentic
Italian food. (Stephen Street,
Waterford, 051 877 552;
harlequin-cafe.com).
The Lemon Tree does good
home-cooked ready meals
(Dunmore East, Co Waterford;
lemontreecatering.ie).
Nude Food A quirky caf,
excellent aordable food.
Loved by locals (OConnell
Street, Dungarvan, 058 24594;
nudefood.ie).
White Horses A busy
restaurant with a great line
in desserts (Ardmore, Co
Waterford, 024 94040).
PUB GRUB
McAlpins Suir Inn Another
good spot for lunch. Seafood pie
and huge traditional desserts
(Cheekpoint, Co Waterford,
051 382 220; mcalpins.com).
Merrys Gastropub Top notch
pub grub. Try the local
brew Copper Coast Ale
(Dungarvan, Co Waterford,
058 24488; merrys.ie).
Rocketts of the Metal Man
Traditional local food corned
beef and cabbage is good
(Tramore, Co Waterford,
051 381 496)
The Spinnaker For great
seafood (Dunmore East,
Co Waterford, 051 383 133;
thespinnakerbar.com).
BEST PINT
Henry Downes Pub, 8-10 Thomas
Street, Waterford, 051 874 118
Geoffs Caf Bar, 8-9 St John
Street, Waterford, 051 874 787
Powers Public House,
Queen Street, Tramore, Co
Waterford, 051 381 617
Esther and Joe Barron
of Barrons Bakery
John de Bromhead of Downes pub in
Waterford city, which even bottles its
own whiskey.
Justin Green of OBrien Chophouse
For show & shuttle bus from city centre.
Now booking for 2012 & 2013
One of Dublins
Top 10
Get the free App
gourmet waterford
50 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
the best place for a pint is the tiny
Powers pub; youll not fnd a truer
character than the landlady Martha.
Another popular seaside town
is Dunmore East, where regular
visitors like to sun themselves outside
the Spinnaker Bar, while tucking
into a bowl of Ballyhack mussels
although the seafood chowder is
pretty unbeatable. Worth a visit too is
Te Lemon Tree, a caf that extends
its opening hours in tourist season
and does a brisk trade in homemade
ready-meals. Tey also run the
upstairs caf at Te Teatre Royal
on Te Mall in Waterford City.
Due north from Dunmore East,
youll fnd the village of Passage
East from where you can take
a 15-minute car ferry across the
Suir Estuary to Ballyhack in Co
Wexford. Aside from the beautiful
scenery, the big draw here for
gourmet visitors is Kevin Dundons
awardwinning Dunbrody House
in Arthurstown. Just up the road
in Duncannon is the lesser-known
and immensely stylish Aldridge
Lodge, whose chef Billy Whitty is
revered by Irish food critics for his
modern, imaginative cooking and
strong support of local producers.
And fnally to Waterford city,
which is home to the best independent
supermarket in the country Ardkeen
Quality Food Store. Small, quality
brands that struggle to get a look in
at larger supermarket chains are given
pride of place on Ardkeens shelves.
Afshmonger, a butcher, a Sheridans
cheese counter, wine, fowers, delicious,
fresh-made ready meals and desserts
Ardkeen has it all. But what makes it
so special is an ethos that celebrates and
promotes the best local producers.
If youre looking to eat out in
Waterford city there is no shortage
of restaurants, but the one that
stands head and shoulders above
the rest is LAtmosphere a
dreary name for an outstanding
restaurant that serves authentic
French country cooking. Speaking
of authenticity proper old-
style Irish pubs are something
of an endangered species but
Waterford city is home to one of
the fnest: Henry Downes Bar,
which is run by the well-known
horse-breeding family, the de
Bromheads. As well as bottling
its own whiskey (Downes No.9),
this venerable establishment has
its own squash court and holy
well. It has been around for more
than 250 years and looks its age.
But Downes like a foury blaa
stufed with Ballybeg ham makes
no apologies for being what it is:
Waterford to the core.
Left, Cora
Donnelly of
Ardkeen Stores
where small local
producers get
pride of place.
Right, the rich
pasturelands of
Cappoquin.
I
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L
u
S
t
R
A
t
I
o
n
b
y
D
e
R
m
o
t
F
L
y
n
n
Supporting and encouraging small producers
of quality food products
GOODFOOD
IN GOOD SPIRIT
Ardkeen Quality Food Store,
Dunmore Road, Waterford.
Tel: 051 874620 www.ardkeen.com
of quality food products
Ardkeen Quality Food Store,
Dunmore Road, Waterford.
Tel: 051 874620 www.ardkeen.com
View our range of Fine Food Gifts & Hampers
online at www.ardkeen.com
Madrid
52 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 52 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 53
Life in Madrid is a whirl of great tapas bars, superb live
music and a social life that never tires. New arrival
Ingmar Kiang nds that Madrileos dont just
work hard, they play hard too.
Gold
Spanish
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 53
Madrid
54 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
T
he ofer came out of the
blue. It was only a short-
term contract, but the
work was interesting and
it was a chance to get to
know a beautiful city. What wasnt
to like? If things went well, I could
even move there permanently.
And so I jumped on a plane,
and few into Madrids blistering
summer heat, carrying little more
than a toothbrush and credit card.
Te search for accommodation
forced me into a crash-course in
Madrids geography. Te city is
huge the third largest in
the EU, with a population
greater than the whole
of Irelands. It is a
labyrinth of wide
avenues intersecting
at elegant plazas,
interspersed with
apartment-lined
streets, but easily
navigable, thanks
largely to the excellent
Metro. Efcient, clean
and inexpensive, Madrids
underground system puts
those of London, Paris and New
York to shame, and can get you just
about anywhere in 20 minutes.
Te Puerta del Sol is, quite
literally, the centre of the city,
and of the country: it houses the
kilometre zero marker, from
which all distance measurements are
made in Spain. Nearby, the elevated
statue of Carlos III on horseback is
a default meeting point for locals.
Radiating from Sol is a patchwork
of districts barrios each with
their own attractions and favour,
each within easy reach of the other.
Te scale of the town centre makes
it very user-friendly for visitors, as it
is all crammed into an area smaller
than, for example, Dublin between
the canals.
To the south, La Latina is
cool and funky, home to
Calle Cava Baja, a street
crammed with restaurants
and bars teeming
with life at all hours.
Beyond that, Lavapies,
home to many
ethnic communities.
Northwards, the gay
district of Chueca has
yet more bars and clubs,
and this theme extends
to neighbouring barrios.
Apparently there are more
restaurants and bars in Madrid
than in the whole of Belgium all
catering to the local pastime which
is, essentially, hanging out.
Madrileos take their hanging
out seriously, and like to refer to
themselves as gatos cats who come
out at night. Its an appropriate
metaphor. Tey rarely entertain
at home, preferring to go out to
meet up for drinks, eventually
sitting down to dinner around
10pm. Such hours are not just for
the hip young things: youll often
see three generations of a family
fnishing a meal after midnight, and
a happy cause-and-efect of having
grandparents and nios about at all
hours is that Madrids streets feel,
and are, very safe.
On any given night, central areas
will be thronged, and the partying
will continue until the not-so-small
hours. Much has been made of the
relaxed attitude to alcohol enjoyed in
France, Italy and Spain, and Madrids
drinking culture is no exception.
Te locals drink, and drink quite
a lot, all the time yet nobody
seems to get obscenely drunk. Beer,
aka cerveza (pronounced ther-bay-
tha), is available everywhere, even
in McDonalds and Burger King.
Shorts, and I use the term advisedly
(theyre actually called long drinks
here), are a diferent story: a gin and
tonic or rum n Coke will set you
back at least 7 but the measures
are hand-poured and invariably
generous, usually equivalent to at
least a triple. Beware.
Come the morning after the night
before, the people here get back to
work with an almost Teutonic zeal:
its an exhausting schedule, and I
quickly came to appreciate the value
Previous pages, the
statue of Felipe III
stands in one of
Madrids central
squares, Plaza
Mayor. This page,
left, the Real Basilica
de San Francisco
El Grande and,
right, the colourful
facades of Calle de
Segovia, both in hip
La Latina. Above,
newarrival Ingmar
Kiang discovers the
joy of hanging out,
Madrid-style.
DAYTRIP
Northwards, a short journey
fromChamartin station brings you
to Cercedilla, a picturesque town in
the Guadarrama mountains. Popular as a
starting point for hikers, andas a pit-stopfor
trippers making their way to Navacerrada
via the famously olde-worlde narrow
gauge railway, the area even oers
regular skiing during the
winter months.
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MADRID
56 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
of a siesta. Statistics have shown
that Madrileos work longer hours,
and get less sleep, than anyone
else in Europe. Tese simple facts
speak volumes about the lifestyle
and attitudes of the population:
they dont know when to stop.
Because while Madrid is indeed
a party town, it also boasts the
third highest GDP of any city in
the EU.
Te citys work ethic is even
refected in its diet: despite
living about as far from the
sea as is possible in mainland
Europe, Madrileos are crazy
and I mean loco about fsh and
seafood. Tey want the very best,
the very freshest, and so every night
convoys of juggernauts have to race
hundreds of miles from the coast
to meet demand. Te end result is
the daily availability of the best fsh,
prawns, shrimps, squid, octopus,
mussels and sea urchins imaginable,
which bizarrely makes land-locked
Madrid a genuinely worthwhile
seafood destination.
Madrids other great gastronomic
passion is for ham, ranging from
the cheap-and-cheerful blanco to
the eye-wateringly expensive ibrico.
Te latter is made from free-range
pigs fed on chestnuts, and a not-
huge portion can cost more than
20. Tourists and Madrileos alike
love the Museo del Jamn, a chain
of standing-only bars thick with
the salty smoky tang of hundreds
of hanging hams, which was
established to celebrate the local
product and counteract the spread of
American fast-food joints.
Ten, of course, theres tapas,
which can be delicious but
occasionally bafing. Te word itself
is a generic term covering anything
from a few olives to a full-blown
meat and sauce semi-dinner. To add
to the confusion, some bars will
serve a little tapa with every drink,
free of charge; others dont. And
remember, never order tapas as such:
its like asking a waiter for food.
Menus can be hazardous, as
theres much less diferentiation
between starters and main courses
than at home. However, many
dishes are available in two sizes
racione and portione small and
large respectively.
Although Spain ruled much of
South America for centuries, the
3 MUST DOS
1
GET ONBOARD The obvious but
very good place to start is with
an open-topped bus that takes
you on a panoramic tour of the city
(madrid-tourist-guide.com), along
two possible routes. Tickets give you
access to both itineraries, for one or
two days, and you can hop on and
o at will. Running from the south
side of Sol, you get to see all the
major sights the Palacio Real, the
museums, Estadio Bernabeu, etc
and a few of the lesser-known spots.
2
GET CULTURED Rated by
many experts as the worlds
best art collection, the Golden
Triangle formed by the Prado,
Thyssen and Reina Soa museums
constitute Madrids biggest tourist
attraction. The most famous of the
trio, the Prado (museodelprado.es),
houses works by Spanish masters
Velazquez, Goya and El Greco, plus
a huge Flemish/Dutch collection,
featuring paintings by Rubens, Van
Dyck, Brueghel and Bosch including
bedsit-poster favourites such as
The Garden of Earthly Delights
and The Seven Deadly Sins.
Originally a private collection, the
Thyssen-Bornemisza (museothyssen.
org) covers the few bases the Prado
misses, and also boasts a major
collection of 1960s pop art, while
the Reina Soa (museoreinasoa.es)
concentrates on modern abstract
works. Entrance tickets are available
for each museum individually,
or all three collectively though
attempting to do the lot in one day
requires serious stamina.
3
GET IN THE SWIM
Compensating for its lack of
a beach, Madrid has plenty of
beautifully maintained pools, most
of which are run by the city council,
accessible for less than a ver. The
best, and most popular by far, is at
the edge of the Casa de Campo
the nearest Metro stop being Lago.
Its a good, old-fashioned Lido,
complete with a terrace overlooking
the water, changing rooms, outdoor
showers and a large, well-kept area
for sunbathing and picnicking. Be
prepared for huge crowds during
high season, especially at weekends.
Above, Madrid is
a party town and
cafs and tapas
bars, right, are the
best places for a
visitor to sample
the culture.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 57
Eat at ...
taberna txakoli (Calle Cava Baja 26,
0034 913 664 877) is a small, incredibly
noisy, standing-only Basque tapas bar,
selling pinchos substantial tapas held
together with a cocktail stick. Each costs
about 3, and wouldnt be out of place in a
Michelin-starred restaurant.
La Consentida (Calle Hernani 53, 0034 915
336 216) is a typical local, homely restaurant
and bar, run by a husband and wife team.
She does the cooking, he complains about
working 364 days a year. The lighting
is bright (as it is everywhere here), the
Madrileo food authentic, specialising in
fresh sh, and a mean rabo de toro.
A dazzling range of the worlds best
cheeses can be found in the ber cool
surroundings of the Poncelet Cheese
Bar (Calle Jose Abascal 61, 0034 913 992
550; ponceletcheesebar.es). A novel, but
strangely memorable experience.
Mercado de San Miguel (Plaza San Miguel,
0034 915 424 936) is a beautiful, recently
refurbished turn-of-the-century market,
housing dozens of outlets selling snack
food from around the world. Sample some
local ham, then bring your glass of wine to
the next counter for a skewer of chicken
yakatori. Open until midnight most days,
and until 2am, Thurs-Sat.
Certied as the oldest restaurant in the world
by the Guinness Book of Records, and a
favourite of Goya and Hemingway, the food
at Botn (Calle de los Cuchilleros 17, 0034
913 664 217; botin.es) is good, though the
signature dish of suckling pig is bested by
the lamb. Highly touristic, so be prepared
for perfunctory service, and musicians
performing Y Viva Espana, without irony.
StaY at ...
SPLURGE A baroque landmark at the
heart of the Golden Triangle art district,
Hotel Ritz was built in 1910 on the orders of
King Alfonso XIII, to help Madrid compete
with London and Paris as a great European
city. Nowadays, its a favourite of Pedro
Almodovar. Rooms from 280; Plaza de la
Lealtad 5, 0034 917 016 767; ritzmadrid.com.
abalu Hotel is a masterpiece of interior design
and a luxury stopover. Centrally-located just
200metres fromGran Via, the hotel oers
in-roommassage and spa services, and
each roomfeatures a unique combination of
designer furniture and quality artworks. Rooms
from125; Calle Pez 19, 0034 915 314 744;
hotelabalu.com.
MIDPRICE A mix of modern four-star luxury
in a classic setting, ME Madrid (formerly
the Grand Hotel Reina Victoria) boasts a
spectacular rooftop terrace bar, and a great
location too just a minute or two from Sol.
Rooms are luxurious, though not huge tip:
ask for a room on an upper oor, which will
give you a view of one of Madrids prettiest
squares. Rooms from 152; Plaza Santa Ana
14, 0034 902 144 440; memadrid.com.
BUDGEt There are 40 spotlessly clean
and eciently run branches of NH
Hotels (three- to four-star) in
various locations in Madrid
the default choice for
business travellers and
visitors on a budget.
Prices vary;
nh-hotels.com.
SHOP at ...
Calle Serrano is the
citys best-known
auent shopping
thoroughfare, rivalling
anything London or
Paris can oer. All the top
international brands such
as Dolce e Gabbana and Gucci
are either here or along Calle Ortega
y Gasset. Youll also nd many smaller
boutiques selling the work of lesser-known
but equally expensive local designers.
A pleasant, pedestrianised street running
north from Gran Via, Calle Fuencarral
houses a mix of international brand
franchises and local outlets. Teens and
twenty-somethings love the Fuencarral
Market a mish-mash of industrial design,
the latest fashions, gifts and cosmetics,
complete with an in-store DJ, piercing and
tattooing bars, and a surrealist hairdressers.
El Rastro Flea Market (Plaza de Cascorro
and Ribera de Curtidores) is held every
Sunday and on public holidays, with huge
crowds arriving early (it starts to wind down
from 2pm onwards) to trawl through stalls
selling everything from antiques and trinkets
to clothes and CDs, before stopping o
for lunch in one of many local restaurant/
bars. Though actual bargains are few and
far between, its a Madrid institution and a
magnet for locals and tourists. Note:
its a magnet for pickpockets too.
Yes, its just a department
store, but with over a
hundred huge outlets
in the country,
Corte Ingles
(there are three
in Madrid alone)
is an operation
of mind-boggling
proportions. You
can get anything
here from phone
credit to a fur coat, a
computer or a car even
insurance for your car. The
basement supermarkets are also
the best in Madrid, and oer a particularly
good selection of hams, cheeses and wines.
The barrio of triball (near metro Gran
Via) was run-down and awash with
petty crime until 2008, when a business
consortium set out to gentrify the area,
offering cheap rents to artists, designers,
restaurateurs and retail entrepreneurs.
Their work has been hugely successful
and this arty triangle has become a
hotspot for the trendy and alternative
a model for future urban regeneration
schemes.
LivingHistory
Just 50km northwest of
Madrid, the 16th century palace
of Felipe II, the Monastery of El
Escorial, is the perfect daytrip for history
bus and architecture lovers (theres an
architecture museum in the basement,
complete with the original budget and
tools). A 50 minute bus journey
(from Moncloa). Adults, 10;
sanlorenzoturismo.org.
the Monastery
of El Escorial, just
50kmnorthwest
of Madrid, is well
worth a daytrip.
Madrid
58 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
Art lovers at the
Thyssen, which
with the Prado
and Reina Soa
museums, forms
one of the best art
collections in the
world.
Latin culture of chili con carne,
jalapenos, etc, has had zero infuence
on Madrids menus, so if you need a
spice hit youll have to go ethnic.
Tese grumbles aside, the
food in Madrid is beautiful, with
an emphasis on home-cooked
simplicity and quality ingredients,
rather than chefness. Te citys
signature dish, rabo de toro oxtail
slowly cooked in red wine is a case
in point, usually served with pride
and enthusiasm, and a real treat for
any meat lover.
Meanwhile, locally grown fruits
and vegetables still have the favours
that many of our mass-produced
equivalents have lost. On one of
my frst days in the city, I bought a
peach from a grocers (for about 20
cent). It was almost an emotional
experience, as its scent instantly
transported me back to childhood,
and the last time Id had a peach
that actually tasted of peach.
As a newcomer, I couldnt help
but notice that Madrid seems to have
found a healthy balance between
serving the needs of visitors and
those of locals. Tere are very few
out-and-out tourist traps, and even
the restaurants and bars operating
around Sol and Plaza Mayor enjoy
regular local custom. Te city is
known to be relatively cheap food,
drink, cigarettes, taxis and public
transport all cost less than in Ireland
so pushing the boat out in Madrid
is unlikely to faze a visitor.
Of course, Madrid has much else
to ofer beyond food and drink. Te
place is full of cultural hotspots, the
most famous being the conveniently
adjacent Prado, Tyssen and
Reina Sofa museums. Tis trio of
institutions between them house
one of the best art collections in
the world, ranging from the major
works of Velasquez and Goya, to
Picassos magnifcent Guernica.
Unlike certain other iconic
pieces such as the Mona Lisa,
which can be rather small and
decidedly unimpressive when
viewed in the fesh, Guernica,
and the revulsion at the bombing
of civilians it expresses, is a full-
on, furious 3D experience. Te
painting is doubly signifcant in
that its creator wished for it to
remain in New York until the
removal of fascism in Spain. When
Generalissimo Franco eventually
died in 1975, the nations relief,
and paintings symbolic return,
helped trigger La Moda Vida a
joyous outpouring of free living
and artistic expression by a people
who had sufered decades of
stifing dictatorship.
Te spirit of La Moda Vida lives
on in the everyday life of Madrid
in its lively music scene, crowded
theatres and opera, curiously large
number of contemporary dance
companies, and full calendar of
festivals and family-friendly events.
Plus, of course, there is the
football: even non-fans should
try to see Real Madrid play at the
Bernabeu Stadium. Tickets are
hard to come by, and expensive,
but the venue is spectacular, yet
civilised and comfortable. Each
game (some kick-of as late as
10pm) is a true theatrical event,
bursting with life, noise and
colour. Very much a microcosm of
the city itself, and the boundless
energy of its people. Madrid can be
exhausting, but I just may have to
move here after all.
aer Lingus ies from Dublin
to Madrid daily.
P
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Your favourite venue?
One of our favourites, taberna elisa (Calle de
Santa Mara 42, 0034 914 295 415), is more of
a cosy musicians pub than a venue: Spanish
stu reaches far beyond amenco this is
the bar where Spanish
and international folk
musicians go after a gig or
for a jam. On weekends,
youll nd Galician Celtic
music, other Spanish folk,
on Sundays, Bluegrass,
and Mondays is Irish
trad the longest running
session in Madrid (20
years). There are framed
photos of Dervish playing
in La Elisa. We once set up Duke Special to
play there when he was in Madrid on a night o
between gigs. If you know the front bar in the
Cobblestone in Smitheld, Dublin, youll know
the type of place I mean.
favourite cLub and whY?
el tempo (Calle del Duque de Osuna 8)
because it has great music, both live and with
DJs til late, and has often invested in bringing
bands from overseas, helping to promote the
soul/funk scene in Madrid.
naMe one good venue for
rocK Moby dick (Avenida
Brasil 5) is great and has a
long history of quality bands.
Sala el Sol (Calle de los
Jardines, 3) is also legendary
and more central, being a
stones throw away from
Puerta del Sol.
JaZZ el Junco (Plaza Santa
Brbara 10) hosts regular
concerts and sessions of
jazz, swing, funk and blues.
fLaMencocasa Patas (Calle Caizares
10) has regular amenco concerts that will be
the real deal but not at ve-star prices. Great
tapas and meals too!
The Track Dogs new album is available
on Mondegreen Records, through iTunes
(trackdogsmusic.com).
the insiders guide
Garret Wall, singer/songwriter and leader of Track Dogs, a four-piece acoustic band,
has lived in Madrid for over a decade.
Fromleft to right, David Mooney, garrett Wall, howard
Brown and Robbie K Jones.
Blarney Castle & Gardens
Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence
See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years
ago by one of Irelands greatest chieftains...
Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday- Sunday 9-5 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie
francoirish
literary festival file litrochta
The Netherlands,
your partner in Ireland.
View : www.hollandtrade.com
and contact dub-ea@minbuza.nl
for questions on bilateral trade. P
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escape to orlando
60 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 61
Florida for wildlife? You bet. Oda OCarroll travels beyond
Orlandos theme parks to track down gators, herons,
manatees and more. Photographs by Peter Matthews.
TheWildsideof
Orlando
escape to orlando
62 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
W
hen Walt Disney
decided to open
a big fantastical
dream factory in
Orlando in 1971,
it was the best thing to happen to
Floridas economy since the land
boom of the 1920s. And where
theres one success story, others will
follow. Two decades later, Orlando
had become the biggest family-
friendly tourist destination in the
world. And rightly so, its something
they do very well. But other than
sky-high roller-coasters, life-sized
Mickey Mouse characters and
powder-pink candy foss, what does
central Florida have to ofer? Well
lots, as I discovered on a journey
to uncover Orlandos wilder, more
natural side.
You get a totally diferent
perspective of a place from the
water, so a kayak trip up the Dora
Canal, which connects Lake
Dora and Lake Eustis cited as
Floridas most beautiful mile of
water seemed like a pretty good
place to start. About an hours drive
north of Orlando, I was met by
old hands Kenny and Jenny Boyd
from Kayak Central Florida (001
352, 589 7899; kayakcentralforida.
com) for a two-hour paddle a
really great way to watch bird and
wildlife, they assured me. But on
a canal? Pah. Wed hardly pushed
of the slipway when a kingfsher
fitted by, some moorhens scuttled
out of our way and Kenny pointed
overhead to turkey vultures circling
a bald eagles nest. Okay, respect.
Suddenly a snowy egret with almost
fuorescent yellow feet few of a
moored boat beside us. At the end
of the 19th century, its feathers sold
for $35 an ounce for millinery, $20
more than gold. No wonder it didnt
want to hang around.
As we meandered quietly
through the tea-coloured
waterway, fanked by ancient
cypress, oak and sleeping hibiscus,
it felt like wed been given a
secret pass into another world.
Curious, long-necked anhinga
birds, coloured like caf crme,
with black bodies and blonde
heads, bobbed in the water before
climbing up trees with their catch;
families of water turtles and the
odd brown water-snake basked in
the sun on fallen trunks. Tere
can be up to 300 nests here in
February and the chatter of baby
chicks sounds just like Disney,
said Kenny.
Psst. Taking a bend of the
canal, Kenny called for quiet.
We paddled silently towards a
bank where a gator was perfectly
camoufaged in the swamp fern
and was I could swear eyeing us
up. Te distance in inches between
the eyes and nose equals its length
in feet so we were within spitting
distance of a seven-foot carnivore.
We got in close enough for a snap
and as the gator slid into the water
below us, we did an about-turn and
began paddling vigorously.
Buoyed by my frst foray into
nature experiences, I decided to get
an alternative perspective on the
terrain. Zipline Olando (4509 S.
Orange Blossom Trail, Kissimmee,
Previous pages,
left, uplands and
marsh packed
with wildlife, and
right, a Great Blue
Heron spotted on
the Dora Canal.
This page, from
left, massive
lily pads at Bok
Tower Gardens; a
three-metre gator;
cormorants on
Lake Harris.
Turning Darkness into Light
Exhibition & Library Shop
open seven days a week.
Admission times:
Mon-Sat:
9.30am-5pm
Sun (Oct-Apr)
12noon-4.30pm
Sun (May-Sept)
9.30am-4.30pm
Tel: +353 1 896 2320
E: bookofkells@tcd.ie
www.bookofkells.ie
Let Dublin truly capture
your imagination! From
shopping and dining
to visitor attractions,
festivals and events,
Dublin has it all!
Visit Dublins Ofcial
tourist information and
booking ofces
The Dublin Tourism
Centre, Suffolk Street
14 Upper OConnell
Street, Dublin 1
Also:
Dublin Airport T1 and
Dun Laoghaire Ferry Port
The Book
of Kells
24 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2,
(beside Concert Hall/Stephens Green)
www.silksclub.ie
Silks
CASINO CLUB
DUBLIN
THERE IS ONLY ONE SILKS.
SLOTS
I
ROULETTE
I
BLACK JACK
I
PUNTO BANCO
I
POKER
escape to orlando
64 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
001 407 808 4947; ziporlando.
com), a 1.5km long course located on
a seventh-generation, family-owned
cattle ranch, ofers the nearest thing
to an aerial view without being
on an aircraft. From the tree-top
high-wires you may well spot
Florida panthers, coyote, wildcats
and golden orb spiders amid the
lush 1,012-hectare terrain below.
If you open your eyes, that is. Too
late to poop out, I got harnessed
up and made my way up a metal
tower to tackle the frst of eight
(yes, eight) wires and suspension
bridges. Gulp. I looked down at the
ever-diminishing ground below,
heart thumping, mouth bone dry.
Step up on the box, maam, said
the executioner-guide. Now at 20
metres above the ground, there
was nothing for it but to step and
jump. White knuckles grasping a
canvas loop I closed my eyes and
Wheeeeee, I choked. Am I enjoying
this? Almost. Until I approached the
receiving tower and Karl, the guide,
FIVe must sees
1
Architecture acionados shouldnt
miss a trip to the pretty town of
lakeland, about an hour from
Orlando, to see the largest single-
site collection of Frank Lloyd Wright
buildings in the world. Arguably
Americas greatest architect, Wright
designed twelve separate buildings
on the Florida southern college
(southern.edu/lwctr/) campus in
the 1940s, including an extraordinary
water dome. Lakelands terrace
Grille restaurant at the 1920s
Terrace Hotel (001 863 688 0800;
terracehotel.com) is one of the nest
in the region.
2
Stay at the wonderfully eccentric
chalet suzanne (001 863 676
6011; chaletsuzanne.com), near
Bok Tower, a homely Swiss chalet-style
inn by the lake, brimful of kitsch local
paraphernalia and exotica gathered
by original owner, Bertha Hinshaw,
on her world travels. The restaurants
signature chicken soup is so good,
astronauts based at nearby Cape
Canaveral in the 1970s chose to bring
it onboard two Apollo missions; it has
been renamed Moon Soup.
3
Visit an orange grove. You
cant help spotting the orange
plantations as you drive
through central Florida (the scent
is wonderful in spring when the
trees blossom). ridge Island Grove
(ridgeislandgroves.com) in Polk
County allows you to pick Honeybell,
Valencia and the super-sweet Page
varieties from the many being grown.
4
Witness spectacular wildlife in
an almost undisturbed habitat
at circle B Bar reserve (polk-
county.net). It may sound like an
airport business class lounge but its a
tranquil former ranch of 525 hectares
of uplands and marsh plains where
you can see more than 200 species of
birdlife and visit their interpretative
centre to learn about local ecology.
5
Try the legendary fried lobster
at Garys oyster Bar at Lake
Alfred (001 863 956 5055;
garysoysterbar.com). People travel
from miles to eat Garys gator strips,
catsh and oyster at this small,
friendly roadside bar.
is shouting at me, Catch the rope!,
but wait, my hands are stuck inside
the now tightened loop. Almost
reaching the tower, gravity returns
me to the centre of the wire where
Im suspended for an interminable
fve minutes, until Karl zips to my
rescue. My knees almost buckled
when I landed but was I ready for
more? As they say in these parts
heck, yeah!. Seven progressively
more difcult wires later, Im able
to do a running jump backwards,
squealing with sheer exhilaration.
Fear: 0; Oda: 1.
Winding down the pace a little
next day, I drove up through neat
Above, kayaking
through bald
cypress trees on
the Dora Canal
and, right, Oda on
the trail. Opposite,
Garys Oyster Bar
the place to go
for fried lobster.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 65
escape to orlando
66 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
lines of citrus groves towards a
curious sight in the distance. Bok
Tower (1151 Tower Boulevard,
Lake Wales, 001 863 676 1408;
boktowergardens.org), a neo-Gothic,
Art Deco wonder decorated with
carved statuary and surrounded by
a motte full of menacing-looking
gar fsh, stands 62 metres tall on
a hillside. Why was it built? Well,
Edward Bok, it transpires, was a
poor immigrant from Holland
who found the American Dream
and, before he died, decided to
give something back. Te singing
tower was unveiled in 1929 and
donated as a place of repose for the
human spirit. Lofty
words indeed, until
you take a look at
Boks fascinating
CV. Publisher of the
highly successful
Ladys Home Journal,
Bok was an infuential
peace activist and
radical socialist who
campaigned for health
and criminal justice reform.
I ambled around the tower
at magic hour as an enormous sun
was setting in the valley below.
With back-lit tentacles of grey-green
Spanish moss dangling from huge
oaks and creaking palms, and the
60-bell carillon ringing, the scene
felt like something from a 1920s
Gothic flm. Teres something
utterly mesmerising about the
place. Massive green and orange
lily pads like futed pastry cases
foated in a long pond and squirrels
darted everywhere. Te gardens,
a patchwork of delicate fowers,
wiregrasses, beauty berries and
fragrant trees are full of surprises
a secret garden near an opulent
1920s villa, a vine-covered tunnel
and an endangered plant garden
dedicated to conserving
endemic Floridian species.
Te whole experience
was enchanting.
Only one day left.
Te areas surrounding
Orlandos theme
parks are the most
developed, as youd
imagine, but I really
wanted to experience
Floridas wilderness.
Looking at the map it
seemed like there were vast
swathes of it not too far north
of the city. Hit the I-75 heading
towards Ocala National Forest,
the oldest national forest east of
the Mississippi River covering
almost 1,554 square kilometres,
24 HoUrs In orlando
With all that communing with
nature, you might want to get
a hit of urban action on either
side of your trip. Orlando will do
just that. Head to the downtown
area of the city that borders
lake eola, best viewed at
night when the reections from
the skyscrapers make for an
atmospheric light show.
staY at The landmark
Grand Bohemian Hotel (double
rooms from $220 a night; 325
S Orange Avenue, 001 407 313
9000; grandbohemianhotel.
com), the award-winning grand
dame of Orlando hotels. Enjoy
its outdoor heated pool, big
comfy bedrooms and rare art-
covered foyer walls.
GraZeatBlank space
Gallery (201 East Central
Boulevard, 001 407 481 9001;
blankspaceorlando.com) an
eccentric gallery-roomthat hosts
innovative shows, debates and
screenings. Tasty nibbles and more
than 100craft beers available.
VIsIt Wells Built Museum
of african-american History
(511 West South Street, 001 407
245 7535; pastinc.org), a quirky
little museum exploring the
African-American civil rights
movement in Orlando, with
fascinating memorabilia and a
small collection of African art.
stroll aroUnd
Harry p. leu House and
Gardens (1920 North Forest
Avenue, 001 407 246 2620;
lepeugardens.org), 20 hectares of
camellia forest and extraordinary
tropical plants gathered by the
Leus on their travels.
eat at Urban Flats
(183 South Orange Avenue,
Suite 100, 001 321 332 6889;
urbanats.net), a funky, industrial
downtown eaterie and wine bar
with a wide selection of delicious
atbreads, as well as home-made
ravioli, cedar-smoked salmon and
sizzling steaks.
taKe Ina sHoWat
orlando Ballet (1111 North
Orange Avenue, 001 407 426
1739; orlandoballet.org) for a
memorable night of culture.
Orlandos permanent company
of dancers perform both classic
and contemporary works.
Hear soMe MUsIcat
the Beacham (46 North Orange
Avenue, 001 407 246 1419;
thebeacham.com) a rocking,
1,500-capacity music venue in
an old cinema in Orlandos
hippest quarter.
GoFor orlando
International Fringe Festival,
May, 2012 (Loch Haven Park, 900
E Princeton Street, 001 407 648
0077). Lots of street theatre,
cabaret, improv and experimental
shows all around the city.
WaterWay
Florida boasts 17,700km of river
and almost 8,000 lakes. What better
way to explore than in a swamp cruiser
or the airboat? Flat-bottomed with a big,
caged-in propellor, these boats can shimmy
across water up to 190kmph, stop almost
instantly and glide eortlessly through the
reeds at low speed, perfect for spotting
wildlife. Try Captain Freds Airboat
Tours (001 863-696-1637;
captfreds.com).
Magical Bok Tower
in Lake Wales.
Dunne and Crescenzi has changed
the way the Irish eat
Tom Doorley, THE IRISH TIMES.
.... pioneering and reigning...
The New York Times
One of the most famous Italian wine bars...
La Repubblica
They brought the real Italian food to Dublin
FOOD & WINE
Eileen Dunne, Stefano Crescenzi & David Izzo
are proud to present their four award winning authentic Italian dining experiences in Dublin.
A cosy Italian restuarant &
extensive wine bar.
www.dunneandcrescenzi.com
+353 (1) 6759892
www.baritalia.ie
+353 (1) 8741000
www.ofcina.ie
+353 (45) 535850
www.nonnavalentina.ie
+353 (1) 4549866
Elegant ne dining with
authentic Italian avours.
A workshop of
cutting edge Italian food.
Traditional Italian
trattoria restaurant.
D
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16 St. Stephens Green, Dublin 2
Reservations: +353 1 676 3144
New wiNteR MeNu | 12 NooN to 12pM | 7 DayS a week
Dublins Most PoPular
& best Value restaurant
www.peploes.com
On t he doorst ep of t he Merri on,
Shel bourne, Conrad, West bury
and Fi t zwi l l i am Hot el s
escape to orlando
68 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
and very soon the strip of neon
and billboards gives way to golden
prairies, white picket-fence ranches
and proper rolling countryside.
People come from miles around to
hike on horseback at Cactus Jacks
Trails (11008 South Highway
475, Ocala, 001 352 266 9326;
cactusjackstrailrides.com) and when
I got there it was easy to see why.
You ride along a variety of
peaceful wilderness trails on the
coast-to-coast Florida Greenway
Trail, with Jamie Zito, a charismatic
former pro-tennis player as your
guide. Hiking at a very gentle pace
through sunlight-dappled woodland
you could hear a pin drop it was
so still and the only other people
we passed were a handful of locals
on horseback who greeted us with a
tip of the stetson. Te old oak and
sand pine forest is home to coyote,
tortoises, armadillos, raccoons and
red-tailed hawks and the horses
are so well-trained you just need
to sit back in your deep comfy
American-style saddle and enjoy the
show. From here it was only about
a 48-kilometre trip further north
to the breathtakingly beautiful
chocolate-box scenery of Ocala
and its vast recreational areas
dotted with oak, magnolia
and dogwood trees.
Although managed
by the State Parks,
it feels like youve
happened on rugged
virgin territory,
their presence is
so sympathetic
to surroundings.
I pulled in at
Rainbow Springs
(19158 Southwest 81st
Place Road, Dunnellon,
001 352 465 8555;
foridastateparks.org/rainbowsprings),
one of many natural crystalline
springs in this area. As I paid a
$2 entrance fee at a little wooden
kiosk, the lady said, Youre in
for your frst wow moment just
around the corner. She wasnt
exaggerating. Trough a low ridge
of pines, I could see down to a
pool of sparkly clear water of an
impossibly luminous, green-
blue colour, surrounded by
karst boulders and trees. It
was awe-inspiring. A few
bathers shrieked as they
jumped of a wooden
jetty into the headspring,
which led into the wider
Rainbow River the
water temperature in
the spring is at a constant
balmy 22C year-round.
You can see otters and even
manatees in the Ocala rivers, so
paddling is a wonderful and easy
way to check in with nature. With a
waterfall, picnic areas and glorious
azalea-flled hiking trails, why
would you want to leave this place?
On the way home I couldnt help
ponder, Orlandos theme parks are
a wonderful attraction in Central
Florida but Mother Nature does a
pretty mean job of it herself.
WATCH
IT!
Many of Americas major
league pro baseball teams, such
as the New York Mets, Phillies and
Detroit Tigers, decamp to Florida for
spring training, which means you get to
watch them play matches up close in
small stadiums and at a fraction of
the normal cost. Baseball fans will
feel like theyve died and
gone to heaven.
aer lingus ies from Dublin to
Orlando, Tues, Thurs and Sat.
Hertz car rental Cara would
like to thank Hertz for their
assistance. For best car rental
deals, visit aerlingus.com and
click on the Hertz icon.
The impossibly
green-blue
luminous waters of
Rainbow Springs.
at a glance
gettIng aroUnd BY car Car rental is comparatively cheap in Florida
and is by far the easiest way to get around.
clIMate Florida enjoys a temperate, sub-tropical climate year round, with
an average temperature of about 22C. Dened seasonal changes occur
during wet (June to September) and dry (October to March) seasons.
WHat to BrIng Sunglasses and sun protection cream are a good idea
no matter when you go. An international driving permit (available from
AA.com for 10) is a must if youre hiring a car and binoculars, camera and
mosquito repellent would be most welcome for visits to the swamp or
water-based trips.
See visitorida.com to plan your trip.
orlando
ocala
dunnellon
lakeland
daytona
Beach
tampa
port st lucie
gainesville
port
orange
lake alfred
circle B Bar reserve
garys oyster Bar
ridge Island grove
Kissamee
DALKEY CASTLE
& HERITAGE CENTRE
LIVE THEATRE PERFORMANCE DAILY!
MEDIEVAL ANDTUDOR CHARACTERS INSEASON
See memorable characters go about their daily lives and bring history
to life by bringing life to history in a Teatre Performance as part of the
guided tour (see website for details). www.dalkeycastle.com
Opening Times:
Open all year round 6 days per week. Closed on Tuesdays.
30 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 (Directly opposite Trinity College)
www.thesweatershop.ie | T. +353 1 671 2292
Best selection, quality &value
Beautiful classics at
reasonable prices
Vogue
Expand your horizons by investing in yourself and your organisation. It is
imperative today that every executive in an organisation understands the
language of economics and nance lnows ile iigli quesiions io asl and
undeisiands ile nancial implicaiions of any business decision
USSHER Execuiive Educaiion iales ile besi ilai academics lave io oei
and males ii accessible on a coniinuous basis io ile business communiiy
Wleilei you aie an expeiienced nance piofessional oi a novice you will
nd ilai we lave a compielensive sei of couises ilai aie puiposebuili
around the challenges facing organisations on a daily basis.
In conjunciion wiil a ieamof dedicaied ieseaiclaciive and individually
engaging modeiaiois all of wlomaie academics and expeiienced
execuiive iiaineis USSHER las cieaied a newand dynamic appioacl
io nancial execuiive educaiion in Iieland
Coniaci us ioday foi moie infoimaiion on oui couises eiilei by email
at learn@ussher.ie oi via oui websiie ai www.ussher.ie.
2012
USSHER
EXECUTIVE EDUCATION
COURSES
A FORWARD LOOK TOTHE
MACROECONOMY OF IRELAND
ADVANCED FINANCIAL
MODELLING WITH MS EXCEL
AN INTRODUCTIONTO FINANCIAL
MODELLING
APPLIED ECONOMETRICS IN ENERGY
MARKETS
APPLIED ECONOMICS FOR
NONEXPERTS
BEHAVIOURAL FINANCE FOR
CORPORATE DECISIONMAKING
BUSINESS ANDTHE ECONOMIC
OUTLOOK FOR IRELAND
CREDIT AND BANKRUPTCY
PREDICTION
CREDIT RISK MODELLING
WITH MS EXCEL
DOING BUSINESS IN RUSSIA
DOING BUSINESS INTHE PERSIAN GULF
ENERGY AND COMMODITY MARKETS
ENTERPRISE RISK MANAGEMENT:
CONCEPTS ANDAPPLICATIONS FOR
BEST PRACTICES
EUROASIAN ECONOMIC RELATIONS
EUROPEAN ECONOMIC POLICY
FORMATION
EUROPEANVENTURE CAPITAL AND
PRIVATE EQUITY MARKETS
EXTREME VALUE ANALYSIS FOR
FINANCIAL RISK
FINANCE AND CAPITAL INVESTMENT
ANALYSIS FOR PROJECT MANAGERS
FINANCE AND ECONOMICS FOR MEDIA
PROFESSIONALS
FINANCIAL AND ECONOMIC SYSTEMS OF
THE MIDDLE EAST AND NORTHAFRICA
FINANCE FOR NONFINANCE PROFESSIONALS
FORECASTING FINANCIAL MARKETS
FOREIGN EXCHANGE DERIVATIVES
INFLATION DEFLATIONAND BUBBLES
INTRODUCTIONTO DERIVATIVES
INVESTMENT STRATEGIES FOR HIGH
NET WORTH PRIVATE INVESTORS
ISLAMIC FINANCE
POLICY OPTIONS FOR THE IRISH ECONOMY
PRACTICAL MACROECONOMIC
FORECASTING
REAL ESTATE ECONOMICS
REAL ESTATE FINANCE
REAL OPTIONS FOR CORPORATE
CAPITAL INVESTMENT
TREASURY MANAGEMENT BASICS
UNDERSTANDING CENTRAL BANKS
UNDERSTANDING FINANCIAL
STATEMENTS
If a man empties his purse into his head, no
man can take it away fromhim. An investment
in knowledge always pays the best interest.
Benjamin Franklin
Suite 3.4, The Tower
Trinity Technology & Enterprise Campus
Grand Canal Quay, Dublin 2, Ireland
www.ussher.ie
Suite 3.4, The Tower
Trinity Technology & Enterprise Campus
Grand Canal Quay, Dublin 2, Ireland
www.ussher.ie
The ongoing nancial crisis has changed the way we look at
nance, economics and the free market system in general. It
has also made us look at ideas in a whole new way. The crisis
was brought about by ideas, some that were inerror, some that
were misappliedand nowsome that are helping us understand
what happenedandwhat todonext. Financial Timescolumnist
John Kay and New Yorker columnist John Cassidy in their
recent books make it clear that the role of ideas in markets is
crucial, just as professors Reinhart and Rogo taught us, that
this time is not dierent and newparadigms areoftenthesame
old bubbles in newbottles.
Economics and nance, as disciplines of study, have begun
to reappraise their ideas, the ones that were taken as a given.
Newideas are being formedandold ideas, once troddenupon,
are once again rediscovered. Education, which is provided
in an accessible way for people who continue to be active in
the labour market and aim to be or are at the height of their
industries, is a requirement in todays volatile and ever-
changing environment. As information technology and global
travel shrink the globe in terms of supply chains and nancial
transactions, so must education change in order to meet new
sources of demand.
For centuries, Ireland was a good example to the world in
terms of education and learning, earning the sobriquet the
land of saints and scholars. Irish universities and educational
establishments have continued to deliver high-quality and
relevant educational oerings, enabling Ireland to become
a world-leading exporter of many high-tech products. More
recently the focus has begun to shift from Ireland being an
exporter of things to Ireland as anexporter of ideas and issues.
My colleagues and I see it as our responsibility to make the
best knowledge and most up-to-date research in the areas
of economics and nance available to as wide an audience as
possible. However, the academic timeframe and calendar all
toooftendoes not suit therequirements of organisations and it
was obvious that this was a barrier to businesses and academia
coming together ina hugely benecial manner.
Emerging from Trinity College Dublin, Irelands oldest
university and one of the leading universities of the world, a
new campus company has been formed: USSHER Executive
EducationLtd, oering world-class non-certiedshort courses
in a wide range of economic, nancial and business areas that
are both academically grounded and relevant to the issues
facing organisations today.
USSHERs course moderators are all thought-leaders in their
elds, bringing both academic and research insights as well as
a great deal of experience in commercial and policy advising
elds. Our aimis to bring ideas to business inorder togenerate
value.
USSHER Executive Education Ltd is a newcampus company at Trinity College Dublin that aims to bring ideas,
business and the world-renowned Irish tradition of scholarship together.
The Land of Saints and Scholars
Brian Lucey
Managing Director
USSHER Executive Education Ltd
BEING THERE
72 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
Its a city with plenty to oer the weekend
visitor art, architecture, an Old Town thats
on the UNESCO historic sites list, and good
value for money. Orna Cunningham explores
Polands former capital.
Krakw
4
8
H
O
U
R
S
IN
Fabryka Schindlera the
factory of Oskar Schindler
is now a museum.
K
rakw is a place of contrasts. Medieval and modernist architecture
sit comfortably together in a city that is based as much around
religion and culture as around its turbulent history of war and
Communism. On the banks of the Vistula river, packed with
art and cultural sights, its the perfect spot for a weekend break.
Another boon is just how budget friendly the city is one Polish zloty
converts to around 25 cent and even the most upmarket of hotels and
restaurants makes considerably less impact on your wallet than those of
other European cities.
SHOP AT .
The main shopping
thoroughfare is Galeria
Krakowska, where youll
nd high-end and designer
fare (31-154 Ulica Pavia;
galeria-krakowska.pl), but
Krakw isnt a traditional
shoppers paradise.
To do some real shopping
in Krakw, the outdoor
market Hala Targowa is
best for Communist curios
and authentically vintage
gifts. (3 Ulica Grzegrzecka)
Salon AntykwPasja is a
charming antiques shop laid
out like a mini-museum
(furniture is a specialty) and
lovely for a browse. (9 Ulica
Jagiellonska, 0048 12 429
1096; antykwariat-pasja.pl)
Krakw is best known for
its amber, and the
Sukiennice (Drapers Hall),
right in the centre of the
main square in Old Town, is
host to a number of small
vendors selling handcrafts,
glowing polished amber
among them.
GET CULTURAL AT ...
Experience a realised
socialist society by taking a
walk through the post-1956
Nowa Huta district
(english.nh.pl) built as a
showpiece for Stalinism.
Fabryka Schindlera, the
factory of Oskar Schindler
(on whom Thomas
Kenneallys book
Schindlers Ark is based) in
Krakw has been
preserved as a museum.
(4 Ulica Lipowa, 0048 12
257 1017; mhk.pl)
An odd attraction for
Krakw, The Manggha
Centre for Japanese Art
and Technology, makes a
fascinating diversion and
has an array of artefacts
dating from the time of the
Samurai to modern-day
Japanese culture. (26 Marii
Konopnickiej, 0048 12 267
2703; manggha.krakow.pl)
The Aviation Museum is
well worth a visit the
sheer variety and number
of planes is a reminder of
how the Second World War
was won. (Al John Paul II;
0048 12 640 9960;
muzeumlotnictwa.pl)
A visit to Krakw isnt
complete without seeing
the courtyard and year-
round exhibitions in Wawel
Royal Castle and a trip
through the fabled
Dragons Cave. (0048 12
422 5155; wawel.krakow.pl)
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 73
Above from left, the
unusual limestone crags of
Ojcow National Park; jewel
in the crown Wawel Royal
Castle; the restaurant at
Queen Boutique Hotel.
Left, Krakws main square
is the spot for aperitifs,
coee and a spot of people
watching and, below,
Sukiennice (or Drapers
Hall), is the place to head
for souvenirs.
SLEEP AT .
Ostoya Palace Hotel has
retained all the glamour and
elegant design sensibilities of
the palace as it was when it
was occupied by the noble
Ostoya family. Starting at
104pps, the chef can serve
parties and sumptuous dinners
of traditional cuisine by special
arrangement. (24 Str
Pisudskiego, 0048 12 430
9000; ostoyapalace.pl)
Hotel Eden, situated in the
Jewish district, the Kazimierz,
is a beautifully restored
building from the 15th century.
It also boasts the only mikvah
(a ritual Jewish bath) in Poland.
(Rooms from 45pps; 15 Ulica
Ciemna, 0048 12 430 6565;
hoteleden.pl)
Queen Boutique Hotels
gigantic monochrome rooms
and marble and granite ttings
should suit a more modern
taste perfectly. (Rooms from
45pps; 60 Ulica Jzefa Dietla;
0048 12 433 3333;
queenhotel.pl)
For understated opulence,
the Grand Hotel is probably
Krakws most famous hotel
and is the go-to for visiting
heads of State. (Rooms from
139pps, 5/7 Ulica Slawkowska,
0048 12 424 0800; grand.pl)
EAT AND DRINK AT ...
The main square in the
Old Town is the largest of
the medieval European
cities and a peaceful haven
in the morning. Sit at the
shaded terrace of
Restauracja Gehanowska
Pod Soncem for a mid-
morning coee. (43 Ulica
Rynek Gwny, 0048 12 422
9378; gastronauci.pl)
Krakw is a walkers
delight so make sure you
eat downstairs in U Babci
Maliny (38 Ulica Szpitalna;
kuchniaubabcimaliny.pl/
nowa/). This jewel casket of
a restaurant (complete with
victrolas, eerie dolls and
drapes) serves up
traditional Polish grub and
excellent service.
If youre having an early
dinner, the U Ziyada
Restaurant and Cafe in
Przegorzaly Castle
(13 Str Jodlowa,
0048 12 429 7105;
uziyada.pl) is a must.
The seasonal terraces
overlook a stunning
panorama of
lush greenery.
Bistro cafe, Rozowy Slon
(The Pink Elephant) is an
1980s comic book-cum-
Lichtenstein cartoon
explosion. (24 Ulica
Straszewskiego;
0048 12 421 1047)
Wash it all down at the
drinking hall in CKBrowar
microbrewery with some
delicious local ales. (6/7
Ulica Podwale, 0048 12 429
2505; ckbrowar.krakow.pl)
Aer Lingus ies from
Dublin to Krakwon Tues,
Thurs, Sat and Sun.
Just 35kmnorth of Krakw is lovely OJCOWNATIONAL PARK,
where you can explore caves, strange limestone formations,
take a horse-drawn sleigh ride or rent bikes; ojcow.pl.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 75
Post-Glasnost, Vilnius is a charming city, with a stunning
Old Town just perfect for the weekender or a romantic
break. Irishwoman and singer Erica Jennings loves the
place. She opens her little black book of places to go.
VILNIUS
SEREIKIKIU PARK (beside the
cathedral) is where I love to spend quiet
time. We bring our children here to play,
the dog too, and its beautiful any season.
From here, you can wander up to the top
of Gediminas Tower and take in the view
of the Old Town.
I like THE SHAKESPEARE HOTEL, a beautiful
17th century boutique place near the Cathedral
Square in the centre of town. (Bernardinu 8/8,
00 370 5 266 5885; shakespeare.lt)
THE HILL OF THE THREE
CROSSES may not be quite as
popular as Gediminas Tower, see
over, but I love the view. Three
wooden crosses stood here since
at least 1636 but collapsed in 1869,
and the Tsarist authorities did not
allow them to be rebuilt. A new
monument was covertly erected by
Antoni Wiwulski in 1916 and blown
up by the Soviets in 1950. Finally
the crosses were restored and
consecrated in 1989.
An Insiders Guide to
NIOopened its doors in November and all
thirtysomethings, like myself, said Hallelujah because
nally Vilnius has a lounge bar! Owned by Dutch ex-pat
Bernie who has run caf/bar Cozy, next door, for the
past ten years, he knows what hes doing. A very chilled
atmosphere, full of ambience, with comfy seats, good
music and yummy tapas. The perfect place to start your
Saturday night. (Sv. Ignoto 16; 00 370 5 26 1 1137)
Throughout the summer THE ROOM runs my
beloved Vasaros Terasa (Summer Terrace), which is
a must for anyone visiting. This winter it opened an
indoor option for the colder months and its already
proving popular. A small bar with tasty snacks and a
good vibe. Love it. (Vilniaus 39)
MORE ABOUT ERICA
Im a Dublin-born-and-raised cailn, yet have
lived all my adult life in my adopted home of
Vilnius. A front-woman for the band SKAMP,
last year I began a new project, The Ball &
Chain, with my husband Jurgis Didziulis,
releasing our debut album last November. We
won best music debut of 2011. A mother of
two boys, Pranas, four, and Antanas, two, I
recently published my rst bi-lingual book for
children in Lithuanian and English, entitled
Mano Gyvunai. My Animals.
DECOLTE is a gorgeous
boutique shop in the Old Town
where every girl should go or her
fella with amazing clothes and
accessories. (Saviciaus g 12)
INSIDERS GUIDE
76 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
LOFTAS is where I go to party. Its
the best place in town and was a very
welcome alternative to the super-
shiny, top 40 clubs you usually nd.
Live bands, both foreign and local, all
play here; the parties are legendary
and the punters all just want to have
fun. Theatre, fashion shows and even
opera are also staged at this much-
loved art factory. (vitrigailos 29;
Check its Facebook page,
facebook.com/loftasvilnius)
I love SUES INDIANRAJA
and we often order in too.
Lovely views of Cathedral
Square and a large menu
of authentic Indian cuisine,
cooked to perfection by head
chef Rakesh. Owned and run
by Wing Commander Rajinder
K Chaudhary (retired Indian Air
Force) since 1997. (Odminiu g 3,
00 370 5 266 1888)
Today STIKILU STREET is a warren
of alleyways, restaurants and artisan
workshops (you can watch them at work
ask at the tourist oce, vilnius-tourism.lt),
but it was once known as the Jewish Little
Ghetto and has a tragic history. For more
on Vilnius Jewish history, visit the Museum
of Genocide Victims. (Auku g 2A, 00 370 5
249 6264; genocid.lt/muziejus)
BISTRO18 is in the heart of the Old Town and
hands down my favourite place to eat. Delicious
European cuisine, friendly and fast service. Youll
want to come back. (Stikliu g 18, 00 370 6 777 2091;
bistro18.lt)
Aer Lingus ies from Dublin to Vilnius
on Tues, Thurs and Sat.
GEDIMINAS TOWER is
part of the Vilnius Castle
Museum and, besides showing
reconstructions of the town in
the 14th and 16th centuries, has
a great view of the town from
the top. You can take a funicular
railway to the top (its a steep
walk) from the foot of Gediminas
Hill. (Arsenalo g 5; lnm.lt)
PILIES KEPYKLELE
is my much-loved
breakfast spot.
Scrumptious crpes and
desserts, the perfect
place to start your
weekend. (Pilies 19,
00 370 5 260 8992)
Next to St Annes church, is the
BERNARDINE CHURCH established by
the Bernardine monks in 1469, its had a
turbulent history, but was handed back
to the monks in 1994. You can take a tour
of the church dont miss the medieval
frescoes in the naves. (Maironio g 10,
00 370 5 262 6004; bernardinuansamblis.lt)
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FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 79
W
hen I was asked to write a text
that would commemorate
the 75th anniversary of Aer
Linguss rst ight, I began to
think about Ireland in May 1936, the month
in which that inaugural journey took place.
The country of my grandparents youth
was a poor one, only recently founded,
facing immense challenges, yet its cultural
traditions had survived and there was
optimism that this small new democracy
might one day be a place of freedoms. In our
old literature, in our ballads and songs, in
our poetry and legends, the imagery of ight
appeared with striking frequency; a touching
testament to the hopes of an island people
who, as Yeats said, have gone about the
world like wind.
It struck me as remarkable that a
nation which not very long previously
had been engaged in violent conict and
Civil War had progressed so quickly to
establishing an airline. It also seemed to
me that the story of Aer Lingus closely
tracked the story of independent Ireland,
sometimes in counterpoint, sometimes
in parallel. We have long been a migrant
people we still are, today and every
ight is an anthology, a collection of
stories, some happy, some poignant, all
our own. So, rather than write a fact-
laden article studded with statistics and
the names of aircraft, I asked if I could
approach the commemorative piece as a
series of verse-lyrics that might attempt
to record the unique and indenable
aura that Irish people feel Aer Lingus
has. Airspace was the result. I wrote it
between Christmas 2010 and January
of 2011, a month in which severe snow
cut us o from the world for a while. In a
small way, that separation reminded me
of the longing we feel for other lands,
other dreams, of the connections that Aer
Lingus has existed to serve. I hope you
enjoy reading the piece.
Joseph OConnor
Airspace
The very rst Aer Lingus ight took place back in 1936, just over 75 years ago. To
celebrate, author Joseph OConnor was asked to write a commemorative piece.
Here, we publish chapters six and seven, along with their authors introduction.
VI
Mn na hireann
Of our pilots, I sing,
Of their courage, their labour.
Te captains of Ireland,
Mountain-cool in dark shades.
But of others, too,
Our mothers, our sisters,
Sky-women, armed with a smile
And a welcome,
Trained for all emergency,
Calmers of the nervous,
Who few all night
Down the starry decades.
You were weary at Malpensa,
Charles-de-Gaulle or OHare,
And you stepped aboard the aircraft
Already there.
Welcomed by more than a cabin crew.
Our sisters, our colleagues, our neighbours
daughter,
Te girl we knew in college,
Te girl across the road,
Our best friends aunt on the transatlantic
route.
She was crewing on the fight brought Te
Beatles to Dublin,
(Ringo was a divil. He d beautiful eyes.
He signed me an autograph and called me
My Sweet.)
She was blessed by a Pope in 79,
To whom she served cofee at ffty
thousand feet
(And he had beautiful eyes as well.)
(continued overleaf)
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Joseph oconnor
80 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
Out over the townlands,
Te GAA felds and estates,
Te convents and cattle-marts
Te suburbs, the farmlands,
Te gorgeous irregularity of Irish felds,
Grown glorious now in an Irish May.
As a farmer looks up from his meadow.
He once went to Illinois
To visit his daughter.
Didnt like the food.
Couldnt get a cup of tea.
Didnt like her fellah
For he talked too much.
And silence, for the farmer,
Is the sign of a man
Worth respecting and getting to know.
But every morning when this fight
Carves its path through the sky,
For Chicagos OHare
In the land of Illinois,
He remembers that Christmas with love
So sharp
Tat absence is a presence,
As he walks his empty felds,
And he prays as the aircraft passes.
His call to remembrance.
His Angelus bell.
Five miles above him.
Tat all will be well
For her and hers, this God-given day
Is his prayer as the aircraft speeds its way
Over high lonesome places
Our music translates;
Over Irelands Appalachia,
Connemara, the Burren,
Te Twelve Bens
Tough as a line of Bronx cops
Whose ancestors sufered the cofn-ships.
Wild acres of limestone,
Impossible wildfowers,
Lakes named for saints.
Hotels and holy wells,
Te mouth of the Shannon,
Broad and majestic,
Where the music bubbles up through the mud.
VII
Overfight
A wing and a prayer,
For this overfight of words.
Below us, the Lifey
Winding like a sentence
Etched by James Joyce
In his riverrun mind;
A ribbon of silver
On a ballgown of green
Laid out on a spring-time featherbed.
Te ghost of Oscar Wilde on board tonight;
Tat Dublin son, now fying high
And lost in thoughts of lines he wrote
When all was lost. He gives a sigh.
I never saw a man who looked
With such a wistful eye
Upon the little tent of blue
Which prisoners call
Te sky.
Te city-sprawl below you,
And all the long years,
And the yearning arms
Of Dun Laoghaires piers
And Killiney Hill
With its obelisk of stone
Built when a famine struck Dublin.
Radio-crackle.
Tailwind.
But the Captains voice,
Smooth as a surgeon
About to open a heart.
Sit back and relax.
His altitudes of calm.
Well be speaking to you again before landing.
To the south, the Wicklow Mountains,
Where John Synge walked,
Dreaming up jet-streams
Of fery Irish language,
Sparking like an engine
Turbocharged with rage.
His Sugarloaf gleaming,
Seen from above,
Like a sonnet etched
On an Irish page,
And the pine-forests dark as the sea.
In those days, all women,
Sisterhood of comrades,
Unfappable, collected,
Professional, warm,
Trough rough descent
Trough thunderstorm,
Trough decades of turbulence,
Difcult fight-paths,
Early starts,
Impossible hours,
Te orchestra of call-bells
And unfastened belts.
Showers in hotel rooms
At four in the morning,
Passengers missing.
Ash-cloud warning.
Tey worked. Tey served. Tey soothed.
Tey strove.
Welcome, they said. T filte romhaibh.
Airbound ambassadors
Who did more for their country
Tan any politician or poet.
As a boy, in Ireland, they seemed our
movie-stars,
Our Veronica Lakes, our unshakable
Graces,
Smooth in couture and assured as the air;
Hard to be beautiful
In certain shades of green,
Awake all night
On the red-eye;
But they were.
Of a shamrock on a tail-fn
Tat gave our dreams wing;
Of Aer Lingus men and women,
I sing. I sing.
(... "Mn na hireann" continued)
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 81
And a memory looms
Of the long Irish schooldays,
Your imperfect country mapped
On the cover of a jotter,
Ragged, its coastline
Of inlets and fords,
Devoid of straight lines
In its history, its geography.
Te glitter of the Atlantic.
Te storm-blown islands,
Like inkblots splashed by a careless
cartographer,
Now you are fying above them.
Te sea, O the sea,
Gr gheall mo chro,
Long may it stay between England and me.
A song that your uncle loved,
Singing it often,
In his digs on the Holloway Road.
A handsome man; quifed,
And his hands scarred by work,
London in his accent,
In his vowels, in his laughter,
But Irish in his majestic and heroic sullenness
And refusal to do what he was told.
My judge, hed say, is the man upstairs,
Not these Holy-Joes and yes-men.
Be sure and say your prayers.
And every day he spares you, do a kindness
twice.
And respect yourself, always.
And never take advice.
It was he who once told you
Of the great Book of Kells,
How the blue in its illuminations,
Te impossible silver blue,
How it came from Arabia,
Crossing deserts,
Crossing seas,
Crossing mountains and valleys
Mapped only by hope,
How it crossed the raging oceans,
Trough the ravaged lands of war,
Trough the atlases of ignorance,
Fear and strange tongues,
How it came, in the end,
To adorn an Irish vellum,
From a land so far
Tat nobody knew it was there.
How an island people
Are always at their best,
When they open to the kiss
Of the beautiful world
Tat the Maker of all Skyways gave us.
When he died, he bequeathed you
Old photographs, a scrapbook,
And his Aer Lingus ticket
From 1952.
Tree pounds ten,
And his name in neat cursive.
I kept it, son, always
I kept it, for you.
5-6 Johnsons Court | Grafton Street | Dublin 2 | Ireland
Telephone +353 1 679 9572
www.appleby.ie
Just like your love, our rings
are made to last.
Appleby, quality wit hout compromise.
For your guide to our new and exciting
On Demand movies and television
programmes, including New Girl
(pictured), turn to page 88.
InFlight
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 83
For your comfort and safety
Please pay attention while the
cabin crew demonstrate the
use of the safety equipment
before take-o. Also, make
sure to read the safety
instruction card, which is in
the seat pocket in front of you.
Seat belts must be fastened
during take-o and landing,
and whenever the Fasten
Seat Belts sign is switched on.
We recommend that you keep
your seat belt loosely fastened
throughout the ight.
Your seat must be in the
upright position during take-
o and landing, but can be
reclined by pressing the large
button in the armrest. Other
buttons (in the armrest or
above your head, depending
on the aircraft) may be used
to operate your reading light
and air vent, or to call a cabin
attendant.
Portableelectronic equipment
Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft equipment, creating a
potentially hazardous situation. With safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular
attention to the following:
Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be switched o and stowed safely
as soon as the aircraft doors are closed. It is not permissible to use any electronic device to transmit or
receive data during the ight, however devices equipped with ight mode, or the equivalent,
may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the device is switched o.

DEVICESPERMITTED
ATANYTIME: Devices
powered by micro battery cells
and/or by solar cells; hearing
aids (including digital devices);
pagers (receivers only); heart
pacemakers.

DEVICESPERMITTED
INFLIGHTBUTNOT
DURINGTAXI/TAKE-OFF/
INITIALCLIMB/APPROACH
LANDING: Laptops with CD
ROMor DVDdrive, palmtop
organisers, handheld calculators
without printers, portable
audio equipment (eg Walkman,
CD-player, Mini-disk player,
iPod and MP3-player). For the
comfort of other passengers,
audio devices should be used
with a headset. Computer games
(eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS).
Video cameras/recorders, digital
cameras, GPS handheld receivers,
electric shavers, electronic toys.
Bluetooth devices with mobile
phones in Flight mode, devices
with Blackberry technology
with Flight/Flight Safe mode
selected, laptops, PDAs with
built-in Wi-Fi with Wireless O
setting selected.

DEVICES PROHIBITED
AT ALL TIMES: Devices
transmitting radio frequency
intentionally such as walkie-
talkies, remote controlled toys;
wireless computer equipment (eg
mouse, keyboard); PCprinters,
DVD/CDwriters and Mini-disk
Recorders in the recording
mode; digital camcorders when
using CDwrite facility; portable
stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/
FM); TV receivers; telemetric
equipment; peripheral devices
for handheld computer games
(eg supplementary power packs
connected by cable); wireless
LAN(WLAN). Laptops with
built-in WLAN(eg Centrino) may
be used during ight, provided
the WLANoption is turned o
and subject to the restrictions
associated with the use of
laptops detailed above.
Ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le
do shbhilteacht ...
... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a
thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann
cbin ag ts na heililte
agus iad ag taispeint
conas an fearas slndla a
sid. Iarraimid ort an crta
threoraca slndla at i bpca
an tsuochin os do chomhair a
lamh chomh maith.
Caithfear criosanna sbhla
bheith ceangailte le linn ir
agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon
am a bhonn an comhartha
Fasten Seat Belts ar iasadh.
Molaimid duit an crios sbhla
bheith leathcheangailte agat i
rith an turais.
Le linn ir agus tuirlingthe, n
mr do shuochan bheith sa
suomh ingearach. Ag am ar
bith eile, is fidir an suochn
a chur siar ach br ar an
gcnaipe mr at ar an taca
uillinne. T cnaip eile ann
(ar an taca uillinne n os do
chionn, ag brath ar an eitlen)
chun sid a bhaint as an
solas litheoireachta n as an
ngaothaire, n chun glaoch ar
bhall den fhoireann cbin.
Aboard Welcome
84 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
Fearas iniompartha leictreonach
Is fidir lefearas iniomparthaleictreonachcur isteachar threalamhaneitlein, rudadfhadfadhbheith
contirteach. Agus sbhilteacht mar phromhchramagAer Lingus, iarraimidort airdsabhreis athabhairt ar an
mr seoaleanas:
Caithfear gach guthn pca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a
luaithe agus a dhntar doirse an eitlein. N ceadmhach sid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonra
a tharchur n a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, fach, uirlis le cumas md eitilte, n a chomhionann
sin, a sid. Caithfear an lipad modh eitilte a roghn sula mchtar an uirlis.

GLASANNA A BHFUIL
CEADAITHE I GCNA:
Glasanna a bhaineann sid as
micreaceallair agus/n fotaichill;
cluaisn chnta (glasanna
digiteach san ireamh); glaoir
(gleacadin amhin); sadair.

GLASANNAAT
CEADAITHEI RITH
NAHEITILTE, ACHNACH
BHFUILCEADAITHELELINN
DONEITLENBHEITHAG
GLUAISEACHTARTALAMH/AG
IR DETHALAMH/ AGTABHAIRT
FAOINDREAPADHTOSAIGH/
AGDRIARTHUIRLINGT/
AGTUIRLINGT: Romhair gline
le tiomntn dlthdhiosca (CD
ROM) n diosca digiteach ilside
(DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise.
ireamhin limhe gan phrintiri.
Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms
Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir
Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar
mhaithe le compordna bpaisiniri
eile, nor choir na glasanna seo a
sidach amhin le cluaisn. Cluich
romhaire (ms Gameboy). Nl cead
gaireas forimeallach a sidle
cluich limhe romhaire amar bith
(ms paca forlontach cumhachta a
cheanglatear le cbla). Fscheamara
agus fstaifeadin, trealamh
digiteach san ireamh. Ceamara
digiteach. Glacadir limhe chras
suite domhanda (GPS). Rsir
leicreacha. Bragin leictreonacha
(seachas bragin chianrialaithe).
Glasanna Bluetooth i gcomhar
le guthin phca agus iadi modh
eitilte; uirlis a bhaineann feidhm
as teicneolaocht Blackberry agus
mdeitilte n slnmhdeitilte
roghnaithe orthu; romhair gline;
romhair boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite
agus an lipadraidi mchta
roghnaithe orthu.

GLASANNAABHFUIL
COSCIOMLNORTHU:
Glasanna a tharchuireann
minicocht raidi daon turas.
Silscalaithe. Bragan
chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhstaispena
le feadin ga-chatadideacha.
Trealamh romhaire gan sreang (ms
luch). Printir PC. Schrbhneoiri
DVD, CDagus taifeadin Mini-
disk at sa mhodh taifeadta.
Ceamthaifeadin digiteacha agus
iad ag athscrobh dlthdhiosca.
Steirnna iniompartha. Raidinna
pca (AM/ FM). Glacadiri teilifse.
Trealamh teilimadrach. N
cheadatear fearas LANgan sreang
(WLAN) a sid. Is fidir romhair
gline a bhfuil WLANionsuite iontu
(ms Centrino) a sd le linn na
heitilte ar choinnoll go bhfuil WLAN
curtha as agus faoi rir na srianta
a bhaineann le hsid romhhair
gline (thuas luaite).
Food and bar
service
A new range of food items
including sandwiches,
confectionery and a range of
snacks is available for sale
on all Aer Lingus scheduled
services to and from the UK
and Europe. A charge applies
for all drinks on UK and
European ights in Economy
class. On long haul ights,
there is a charge in Economy
class for alcoholic drinks, while
soft drinks are complimentary.
Details of all items available
for purchase are contained in
an information leaet, which is
in all seat pockets.
News, music
and movies
On long haul ights, we oer
you an extensive programme
of viewing and listening
options. For full details, turn
towards the back of this
magazine.
Seirbhs bia
agus beir
T raon nua bia ar fil anois
ar sheirbhs sceidealta Aer
Lingus a dhanann freastai
ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus
ar an Eoraip. Ina measc, t
ceapair, milseogra agus rogha
sneaiceanna agsla. N mr
oc as gach deoch sa ghrd
barainne ar na heitilt seo.
Ar eitilt Trasatlantacha, t
costas ar dheochanna neamh-
mheiscila go fill ar fil saor
in aisce. T sonra faoi gach
rud is fidir a cheannach ar
bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais
at i bpca an tsuochin os
do chomhair.
Nuacht, ceol
agus scannin
Ar eitilt Trasatlantacha t
clr leathan fachana agus
isteachta ar fil. Le hagaidh
tuilleadh eolais, fach
deireadh na hirise seo.
Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board
T thas ar Aer Lingus filte ar bord a chur romhat
SMOKING
In line with Irish government
regulations, Aer Lingus has a no-
smoking policy onboard its ights.
Smoking is not permitted in any
part of the cabin at any time.
TOBAC
De rir rialachin Rialtas na hireann,
t polasai i rimar eitilt Aer Lingus
nach gceadatear tobac a chaitheamh.
N cheadatear daon duine tobac a
chaitheamh in aon chuid
den eitlen ag aon am.
We hope you have a comfortable and pleasant fight. Thank you for choosing to fy with Aer Lingus.
T suil againn go mbonn turas compordach taitneamhach agat agus go raibh maith agat as taisteal le hAer Lingus.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 85
Aer Lingus 200
millionth passenger
Aer Lingus reached an historic milestone on Thursday,
December 8, carrying its 200 millionth passenger since its
rst ight on May 27, 1936, just over 75 years ago. Annette
ODonovan fromKerry was presented with tickets to a US
destination of her choice and treated to an upgrade to business
class on her ight to Chicago that day.
Change for Good is the UNICEF inflight
collection of unused foreign notes and
coins that helps save the lives of children
around the world. In 2012, UNICEF Ireland
and Aer Lingus are celebrating the 15th
anniversary of this remarkable partnership
that has raised nearly 12 million (US$15
million) for UNICEFs work for children in
over 150 countries and territories across
the world.
Every day, Change for Good collections
take place on-board Aer Lingus transatlantic
flights but, in times of crisis, special Change
for Good collections also take place on all
Aer Lingus flights for UNICEFs emergency
fund. Last summer, a special collection
on-board all Aer Lingus flights raised over
225,000 for UNICEFs Emergency Appeal
for the children of East Africa.
UNICEF Ireland also unveiled a brand
new Change for Good video for Aer Lingus
transatlantic flights in December 2011 to
coincide with the anniversary. Presented by
UNICEF Ireland Ambassador, Rory McIlroy,
the video shows how Aer Lingus passengers
are making a difference to childrens lives
across the world.
UNICEF Ireland is completely reliant
on voluntary donations and is extremely
grateful to Aer Lingus and its passengers
for their continued support of Change for
Good over the last 15 years.
Aer Lingus and UNICEF Ireland
Celebrating 15 years of working together to save childrens lives
Lucky ticket fromleft to right, Eithne Lydon, Jamie Leigh
Arthurs (Aer Lingus) and 200millionth passenger, Annette
ODonovan (winner).
AerLingusNews
At the IrishTravel Trade Awards heldinDublinrecently, Aer Lingus won
the awardfor Best Airline to Europe, retaining the title for the third
successive year. The airline also scoopedthe prize for Best Short-Haul
Airline at the Travel Media Awards inNovember. Aer Lingus cabincrew
were also winners at the ISPYAwards for infight sales achievements. This
brings to twelve the number of awards collectedby Aer Lingus in2012.
Aer Lingus UNICEF ambassadors on a eld trip
to Kenya. Fromleft to right, Sinead Kelly, Carmel
Coyne, Clare Gillespie and Paula Lawlor.
A DELICIOUS NEw SKyDELI
The Aer Lingus inight menu
on UK and European ights
has been refreshed with the
introduction of some healthy
new options in addition to old
favourites such as chicken and
stung sandwich and the hot Irish
breakfast. The new deli-style menu
carries a tasty and diverse range of
foods from fresh fruit and salads to
hot and cold pasta dishes.
Exciting new routes for
summer 2012
Aer Lingus recently announced the welcome addition of ights from
Dublin to Stockholm and Verona, and from Cork to Brussels, to its
extensive 2012 summer schedule. Along with these exciting new
sun and city break destinations, Aer Lingus is also set to increase
frequency on 13 of its other routes, including Faro, Perpignan and
Zurich. For more information, visit aerlingus.com
S
t
o
c
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h
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l
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86 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
Flights, camera, action!
Introducing the very latest in in-ight entertainment systems; starring
over 200 hours of blockbuster movies, TV shows, music videos and
the latest interactive games on your very own personal screen.
Not only do we have a state-of-the-art entertainment system, but
also the most modern eet of aircraft ying to the USA from Ireland.
And once there we can even smooth your onward journey to over
40 US destinations with our partners jetBlue and United Airlines.
There is no better way to make time y.
Great Care. Great Fare.
PUSS IN BOOTS
Animation / Family (PG)
90 minutes
Puss in Boots based on one of the most
beloved characters of the Shrek Universe
tells the hilarious and courageous tale
of Pusss early adventures as he teams
with mastermind Humpty Dumpty and
the street-savvy Kitty to steal the famed
Goose that lays the Golden Eggs. This
tale is about the events leading up to the
swordghting cats meeting with Shrek
and his friends. Its the adventure of nine
lifetimes!
STARSVOICESOFAntonioBanderas,
SalmaHayek, BillyBobThornton, Zach
Galianakis, AmySedaris
DIRECTOR Chris Miller
50/50
Comedy/ Drama (R)
100 minutes
Inspired by a true story, 50/50 is an original
tale about friendship, love, survival and
nding humour in unlikely places. Joseph
Gordon-Levitt and Seth Rogen star as best
friends whose lives are changed by a cancer
diagnosis in this newcomedy directed by
Jonathan Levine froma script by Will Reiser.
50/50 is the story of a guys transformative
and, yes, sometimes funny journey to health
drawing its emotional core fromWill
Reisers own experience with cancer and
reminding us that friendship and love, no
matter what bizarre turns they take, are the
greatest healers.
STARS Joseph Gordon-Levitt, Seth
Rogen, Anna Kendrick, Bryce Dallas
Howard, Anjelica Huston.
DIRECTOR Jonathan Levine
More Movies On Demand
DRIVE
Ryan Gosling
ThE ThREE MUSkETEERS
Orlando Bloom
FOOTlOOSE
Julianne Hough
MARgIN CAll
Kevin Spacey
DREAMhOUSE
Daniel Craig
WARRIOR
Joel Edgerton
I DONT kNOW hOW ShE
DOES IT
Sarah Jessica Parker
ThE WhISTlEBlOWER
Rachel Weisz
MARThA MARCy MAy
MARlENE
Elizabeth Olsen
IN TIME
Justin Timberlake
WhATS yOUR NUMBER?
Anna Faris
AN INVISIBlE SIgN
Jessica Alba
DOlPhIN TAlE
Harry Connick Jr
hORTON hEARS A WhO!
Jim Carrey
ChRONIClES OF NARNIA:
VOyAgE OF ThE DAWN
TREADER
Georgie Henley
ONE DAy
Romance / Drama (PG 13)
107 minutes
Based on the novel of the same name by
David Nicholls, One Day tells the story of
Dexter and Emma and their lifelong will
they/wont they love aair. The pair meets
at college, where they almost get it together
on the night of graduation, but end up
deciding to remain friends. The audience is
then brought through the ups-and-downs
of their friendship over the next 20 years,
focusing on where the characters are on the
same one day each year July 15. Emma
pines away for Dexter, while he lives a life of
excess drugs, drink, women and fame.
STARS AnneHathaway, JimSturgess and
PatriciaClarkson
DIRECTOR Lone Scherg
Puss In Boots
One Day
50/50
FLIGHTS TOTHE USA
From Dublin to Boston, Chicago,
New York and Orlando;
from Shannon to Boston and
New York; from Madrid to
Washington. Movies available
are listed below. All movie details
and ratings can be accessed
through your personal screen.
Movies
FLIGHTS TOTHE USA
88 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
INFlIghT ENTERTAINMENT
MONEyBAll
Drama (PG 13)
133 minutes
Based on a true story, Moneyball is a movie
for anybody who has ever dreamed of taking
on the system. Brad Pitt stars as Billy Beane,
the general manager of the Oakland As.
Forced to reinvent his teamon a tight budget,
Beane will have to outsmart the richer clubs.
The onetime jock teams with Ivy League
grad Peter Brand in an unlikely partnership,
recruiting bargain players that the scouts
call awed. Its more than baseball, its a
revolution one that challenges old school
traditions and puts Beane in the crosshairs of
those who say hes tearing out the heart and
soul of the game.
STARSBrad Pitt, Jonah Hill, Philip
Seymour Homan, Robin Wright
DIRECTOR Bennett Miller
More Movies On Demand
TINkER TAIlOR SOlDIER
SPy
Gary Oldman
PARkED
Colm Meaney
REAl STEEl
Hugh Jackman
ThE IDES OF MARCh
George Clooney
JOhNNy ENglISh
REBORN
Rowan Atkinson
kIllER ElITE
Robert De Niro
MARgARET
Matt Damon
ThE SkIN I lIVE IN
Antonio Banderas
AlBATROSS
Julia Ormond
gRIFF ThE INVISIBlE
Maeve Dermody
ChAlET gIRl
Brooke Shields
ThE lEDgE
Liv Tyler
ThE ADVENTURES OF
TINTIN
Daniel Craig
ICE AgE: DAWN OF ThE
DINOSAURS
Denis Leary
AlVIN AND ThE
ChIPMUNkS: ThE
SQUEAkQUEl
Zachary Levi
ThE BIg yEAR
Comedy / Drama (PG 13)
100 minutes
Featuring a stellar cast including Steve
Martin, Jack Black and Owen Wilson, The
Big Year is the story of three disparate men,
each facing unique personal challenges,
who try to outdo each other in the ultimate
bird-watching competition in 1998. This was
the year El Nio brought an unprecedented
number of species to North America. Their
quest takes themon an unforgettable trek
throughout North America as ultimately this
competition is an allegory for the challenges
faced in their lives.
STARSSteveMartin, JackBlack, OwenWilson
DIRECTOR David Frankel
hAPPy FEET TWO
Animation / Family (PG)
99 minutes
In this sequel to the Academy Award-
winning animated smash hit, Happy Feet
Two returns audiences to the magnicent
landscape of Antarctica, reuniting us with
the worlds most famous tap-dancing
penguin called Mumble. Mumble and
Gloria now have a son of their own, Erik.
Eriks reluctance to dance leads him to
struggle to nd his own particular talents
in the Emperor Penguin world.
STARS VOICES OF Brad Pitt, Matt
Damon, Pink, Robin Williams
DIRECTOR George Miller
Happy Feet Two
Moneyball
FLIGHTS FROMTHE USA
From Boston, Chicago, New
York and Orlando to Dublin;
from New York and Boston to
Shannon; from Washington to
Madrid. Movies available are
listed below. All movie details
and ratings can be accessed
through your personal screen.
Movies
Tinker Tailor
Soldier Spy
FLIGHTS FROMTHE USA
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 89
On Demand TV allows you to control
your TV content and choose from the
very latest comedy and drama. Brand
new COMEDy hIghlIghTS features
New girl as well as Emmy award-winning
Modern Family, how I Met your Mother,
Family guy and from HBO watch out for
Enlightened, how to Make It In America,
Curb your Enthusiasm and Sex and the
City. ClASSIC COMEDy takes in Just
For laughs Stand Up, happy Days and
Cheers. DRAMA features the wildly
entertaining HBO drama True Blood as
well as the brilliant Dexter. A respected
member of the police force and a perfect
gentleman, it is hard not to like Dexter,
described by the Chicago Sun Times
as, Fantastic, fascinating, charming and
gruesome. Also featuring is an episode
from Best Drama Emmy Winner 2011 Mad
Men. Set in 1960s New York, the stylised
and provocative drama Mad Men follows
the lives of the ruthlessly competitive men
and women of Madison Avenue advertising.
Its time to fasten your seat belts for the
eighth and nal season of Entourage!
The HBO Emmy and Golden Globe
award-winning hit comedy is executive
produced by Mark Wahlberg and takes a
ON DEMAND
look at the life of Vince Chase, a hot young
actor in Hollywood and the entourage he
has brought with him from Queens, New
York. Available are the rst eight episodes
of Season 8. game of Thrones is another
HBO triumph and available On-Demand
is the nal eight episodes (Season 1) of
game of Thrones. This ambitious and
visually stunning new series is set in
a quasi-medieval world with a mythic
history riddled with conict. Described by
Newsday as The best-written TV show
of the year and by the Los Angeles Times
as a great and thundering series epic
television.
Dont miss the nal six episodes of the
mini-series The kennedys, the story of the
most fabled and legendary political family
in American history. The Emmy-winning
television mini-series chronicles the lives of
the famous US family. It features a stellar
cast including Greg Kinner, Katie Holmes,
Barry Pepper and Tom Wilkinson.
Available On-Demand are eight episodes
from Season 1 of The Borgias the saga of
a crime family set in Italy in 1492. Starring
Jeremy Irons, The Borgias was created
and executive produced by renowned
Irish director Neil Jordan. This rst-class
medley of Drama
TV also takes in the
nal ve episodes
from Season 1 of
Blue Bloods starring
Tom Selleck. Created
by The Sopranos
alumni Mitchell
Burgess and Robin
Green, Blue Bloods
is a solid, character-
driven, multi-story
serial drama.
Sellecks character
serves as the anchor
for four generations
of police ocers.
TEENS onboard can enjoy the multi
award-winning glee and new from Disney,
both Shake It Up and Wizards of Waverly
Place. Kids can look forward to Angelina
Ballerina, Bob The Builder and Irish
animation in Im a Monster. lIFESTylE,
SPORT AND MUSIC hIghlIghTS
include Top gear, Movie Talk, grand
Designs, Jamies 30-Minute Meals,
Man vs Food, Inside the Actors Studio,
Americas Next Top Model, hSBC golng
World, Real Madrid highlights, The Show,
horizons, Take That Progress live, hugh
laurie Down by the River and later
with Jools holland. DOCUMENTARy
hIghlIghTS take in National geographic
Most Amazing Photos, Mystery Files,
Waterways (The Royal Canal), Beyond
Wiseguys, lifecycles, Ultimate Wildlife,
Big Cypress Swamp and a Biography
channel focus on George Clooney.
Game of Thrones
Blue Bloods
The Kennedys
Television
INFlIghT ENTERTAINMENT
90 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
Radio
ON DEMAND
Chart Hits
Chart Hits lifts the
lid on the latest
pop hits. From Brit
award-winners that
includes Rihanna,
X Factor stars
One Direction, Rebecca Ferguson
and Cher Lloyd to true global
superstars Beyonc, Lady Gaga
and Katy Perry as well as newcomer
Jessie J and oh so much more, this
show is a thrilling mix of the most
recent chart sounds.
Phantom 105.2
Phantom 105.2 is quite simply the
home of the very best music played
on any Irish radio station. Phantom
is committed to playing brand new
music, Indie Rock but really we will
play all genres of music if its a
great track, we will play it. Oh, we
also like having a bit of craic along
the way so why not try something
dierent and tune into Phantom
105.2 we promise you wont be
disappointed! We are Phantom
music that rocks!
Fitzpatrick Hotels
This is a contemporary easy-
listening collection of songs
from both sides of the Atlantic,
brought to you compliments of The
Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. With
two hotels in downtown Manhattan,
Grand Central and Fitzpatrick
Manhattan, Fitzpatricks is the place
to stay in NYC.
The Big 10
The Big 10 on 98FM features ten
songs with a connection. Tune into the
countdown every Sunday morning at
10am as we countdown The Big 10,
each week a dierent set of songs
are featured each with a dierent
connection. Presented Darragh ODea
of Dublins 98 FM, this special show
for Aer Lingus, looks at The Big 10 Irish
songs of all time.
Grace Notes
Ellen Cranitch takes a look back
at some of the recordings from
the traditional music world that
were released in 2011. Grace Notes
includes music from some seasoned
old hands, as well as new kids on
the block. This is a nostalgic journey
for lovers of traditional music as
well as newcomers to the genre
and features the nest traditional
recordings from last year.
La Stupenda
Presented by Liz Nolan of RT
Lyric FM, La Stupenda is a
commemorative programme on
the life and work of one of the
great divas of the 20th century, the
Australian Joan Sutherland. This
Lyric Feature charts the beloved
Dames long and illustrious career
with the music which made her
famous and the recollections of her
colleagues from the opera world.
Jazz Alley
2011 marked both the 40th
anniversary and 110th birthday of
the great Louis Armstrong. In this
Jazz Alley special Donald Helme
takes the opportunity to collect his
thoughts and speaks with renowned
jazz expert Dan Morgenstern and jazz
critic and author of Satchmo The
Genius of Louis Armstrong, Gary
Giddins. In this fascinating show
Helme and guests reect on the life
and achievements of the greatest and
most popular jazz musician of all time.
Best Hits of 2011
Take a recent trip
down memory lane
in this retrospective
of the most popular
hits from 2011. Best
Hits of 2011 features
massive hits including the biggest-
selling artist of the year, Adele, as
well as other instantly recognisable
songs from Maroon 5, Britney Spears,
Ed Sheeran, Coldplay, Chris Brown,
Bruno Mars and more.
February/march 2012 | 91
Radio
ON DEMAND
Broadway Favourites
Broadway
Favourites may
tempt you to visit
a Broadway show
whilst in New York
or indeed provide
inspiration to tread the boards
yourself. This show really is a moving
collection of memorable songs from
the worlds most famous Broadway
musicals. Tune in to hear hits from
Les Misrables, Guys and Dolls, West
Side Story and many more. Enjoy!
Soul Plane
Sit back, unwind
and while away
your time with
Soul Plane; a
soothing and
sublime selection
of mellow grooves and laid-back
songs. This impressive repertoire
of relaxing Soul classics features
legendary artists such as Barry
White, The Drifters, Nina Simone,
Chic, The Four Tops, Isaac Hayes,
Otis Redding and more.
Aer Guitar
Tune into Aer Guitar presented by
Marty Miller to hear some legendary
rock classics. You can also hear
Marty on Irish radio, weekdays from
2pm on Radio NOVA 100FM, from
Dublin to the World! Aer Guitar
features seriously addictive guitar-
based rock music.
That Decade 1950s
Rock n Roll
emerged in the
mid-1950s as
the new cultural
movement and as
the music of choice
for the masses. Elvis Presley was the
leading gure of the new sound as
he, along with other stars, including
Chuck Berry, Little Richard, Fats
Domino, Jerry Lee Lewis became
household names. Essentially the
1950s gave birth to Rock n Roll as
we know it today.
That Decade 1960s
The 1960s was
a revolutionary
decade in terms
of fashion, culture
and music. This was
the decade that
saw the explosion of Popular Music
and in turn the hit record became
a phenomenon that continues to
this very day. Artists featured on
the show include The Monkees,
The Beach Boys, Jackie Wilson, The
Animals and The Isley Brothers.
That Decade 1970s
The 1970s
witnessed a new
dawn in music
spanning a range
of genres from
disco, glam rock
to smooth jazz, electronic music
and punk. That Decade 1970s
showcases an interesting repertoire
of hits from a musically eclectic time.
Artists that can be heard include The
Pointer Sisters, Santana, Hot Gossip,
Heart, Earth Wind and Fire, Mac
Davis and many others.
Copeland Classics
Welcome to the music of Copeland
Classic Hits brought to you courtesy
of Louis Copeland and Sons, a name
synonymous with mens tailoring in
Dublin. Louis Copeland is a world
renowned master tailor and provider
of mens designer suits for over 100
years. Louis Copeland and Sons
can be found in Dublin on Capel St,
Pembroke St and Wicklow St and
beside the IFSC, as well as at Dublin
Airport and in Galway on Merchants
Road. From Armani, Brioni, Hugo
Boss and Paul Smith all leading
labels are available at their stores.
louiscopeland.com.
Best of Moncrie
Best of Moncrie is a lively mix
of funny, engaging and irreverent
features. Its insightful format
gives listeners a unique listening
experience. Tune into Best of
Moncrie every weekday from
1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108fm
for a lively mix of phone-ins, text
messages and stories from around
the world and down your street. Text
531006, email afternoon@newstalk.
ie or follow Sean on Twitter @
SeanMoncrie.
92 | February/march 2012
Its our business to keep
your business moving
With convenient ight times to central airports, self-service check-in
and allocated seats, well make sure that getting to where you need
to be is the least stressful part of your job.
Great Care. Great Fare.
Safety brief
We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures:
Please pay attention to any
instructions given to you by the
cabin crew.
Any behaviour towards a fellow
passenger or cabin crew that
is deemed to be threatening or
abusive (including the use of
oensive language) is a serious
matter.
As our priority is the safety of
all passengers, it is important
not to interrupt the cabin
crew while they carry out their
duties, and not to interfere with
aircraft equipment.
As a service to passengers,
alcohol is served in the airport
lounges and on board. In the
interests of safety, Aer Lingus
may refuse to allow you board
if it is thought too much alcohol
has been consumed. While
the majority of passengers
are responsible, there have
occasionally been incidents
where intoxicated passengers
have caused serious safety
hazards. Passengers are
reminded also that during the
ight you may not consume
any alcohol brought onto the
aircraft by you or any other
passenger. The consumption
inight of Duty Free alcohol
purchased from the Sky
Shopping service is also
prohibited. This measure is,
again, necessary in the interests
of ight safety.
If incidents of this kind occur
during a ight, the cabin crew
is obliged to contact police on
arrival at your nal destination.
The Aircraft Captain may also
divert the ight enroute in
order to remove disruptive
passengers. Should this
happen, Aer Lingus will not
be responsible for getting
you home, your ticket money
will not be refunded, and in
addition to the authorities
awaiting you on landing you
could be heavily ned and/or
be liable to a prison sentence.
In many cases, other airlines
may subsequently refuse to
allow you to y with them.
We emphasise that while on
board the aircraft our priority
is your safety. As always, we
wish you a safe and enjoyable
ight, as well as a safe onward
journey.
Suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and well-being during your ight:
Wear loose-tting clothes on board to
allow your skin to breathe, and apply a
good moisturiser throughout.
Stretch your legs as much as possible
by taking a stroll through the cabin.
Circle your ankles clockwise and anti-
clockwise. Bend and straighten your
ankles in a brisk manner with the knee
straight.
Trace the letters of the alphabet with
your foot by moving your ankles.
Exercising your feet and legs
periodically helps to reduce any
possible eects of long-duration travel.
Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same
position for too long and gently stretch
muscles to improve your circulation.
And remember to move your neck
and shoulders during long ights to
prevent stiness.
We wish you an enjoyable experience.
Reducing the eects
of jet-lag
To help reduce the eects of travelling
and jet-lag before, during and after
your ight, we have introduced
an audio programme (available on
Channel 6), which will play every other
hour, oering 60 minutes of soothing
and relaxing audio environments. The
programme is designed to enhance
your physical and mental wellbeing
during the ight.
Apart from tuning in to the inflight
relaxation programme, here are
some other simple things that you
can do to prepare for your journey.
Ideally, avoid heavy food, alcohol,
tea or coee the day before you
travel.
When you arrive at your
destination, try to adjust your
activities gradually to the new
time zone.
Mild exercise on arrival will also
help to stimulate your circulation.
Carry-on baggage
Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted
to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and
measurements, illustrated below.
Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to
enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your ight:
Additional small items, such as cameras, personal stereos,
overcoats and handbags are allowed on board. EU security
rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage
apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA
security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency
exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.
Maximum
weight
10kg
(22 lbs)
Maximum
weight
7kg
(15 lbs)
AER LINGUS AER LINGUS
REGIONAL
43cm
(17ins)
28cm
(11ins)
20cm
(8ins)
40cm
(16ins)
55cm
(22ins)
20cm
(8ins)
Wellbeing
Passengers with
wheelchair requirements
Our priority is to always ensure
the safety and comfort of all
passengers. We encourage
passengers who may need
assistance to contact us well in advance of
their date of travel to enable us to assess
their needs.
If you are a wheelchair user or require
wheelchair assistance when travelling on
Aer Lingus services, please advise us of
your requirements at least 48 hours in
advance, quoting your booking reference
number. Our contact details are as follows:
email: specialassistance@aerlingus.com
Telephone:
(Ireland) 0818 365 011
08:00 - 18:00 Mon-Fri &
09:00 - 17:00 Sat & Sun
(UK) 0871 718 20 21
(Europe) + 353 1 886 8333
(USA) 516 622 4222
94 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
To & From Dublin
Austria
Vienna
Belgium
Brussels
Canary Islands
Fuerteventura
Gran Canaria
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Czech Republic
Prague
Finland
Helsinki*
France
Bordeaux*
Lyon
Nice
Paris
Perpignan*
Germany
Berlin
Dusseldorf
Frankfurt
Hamburg
Munich
Stuttgart
Hungary
Budapest
Italy
Bologna*
Catania*
Milan (Linate)
Milan (Malpensa)
Naples*
Rome
Venice*
Verona (new route,
starts 24th March)
Lithuania
Vilnius
Morocco
Agadir
The Netherlands
Amsterdam
Poland
Krakow
Warsaw
Portugal
Faro
Lisbon
Romania
Bucharest
Spain
Alicante
Barcelona
Bilbao*
Madrid
Malaga
Palma*
Sweden
Stockholm* (new route)
Switzerland
Geneva
Zurich
Turkey
Izmir*
United Kingdom
Birmingham
Edinburgh
Jersey*
London (Gatwick)
London (Heathrow)
Manchester
United Kingdom
with Aer Lingus Regional
Operated by Aer Arann
Aberdeen
Blackpool
Bristol
Cardi
Edinburgh
Glasgow
* Commencing March 25
Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
RouteMaps
EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK
DUBLIN
Aberdeen
Glasgow Edinburgh
Blackpool
Manchester
Cardi Bristol
London
(Heathrow)
Birmingham
London
(Gatwick)
Jersey
DUBLIN
Paris
Geneva
Lyon
Zurich
Stuttgart
Munich
Frankfurt
Dusseldorf
Brussels
Amsterdam
Hamburg
Berlin
Prague Krakow
Warsaw
Vilnius
Vienna
Budapest
Nice
Rome
Milan
LINATE
Milan
MALPENSA
Bucharest
Madrid
Alicante
Malaga
Faro
Lisbon
Fuerteventura
Lanzarote
Gran
Canaria
Tenerife
Barcelona
Bordeaux
Perpignan
Helsinki
Venice
Naples
Catania
Bilbao
Bologna Verona
Palma
Izmir
Stockholm
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 95
To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon & Gatwick
FROM BELFAST
Canary Islands
Lanzarote
Las Palmas*
Tenerife
Italy
Rome
Portugal
Faro*
Spain
Alicante
Barcelona*
Malaga
United Kingdom
London Heathrow
FROM CORK
Belgium
Brussels* (newroute)
Canary Islands
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Las Palmas
France
Nice*
Paris
Germany
Munich
Italy
Rome
Portugal
Faro*
Lisbon*
Spain
Alicante*
Barcelona
Malaga
Switzerland
Geneva
The Netherlands
Amsterdam
United Kingdom
London Gatwick
London Heathrow
United Kingdom
with Aer Lingus
Regional
Operated by Aer Arann
Birmingham
Bristol
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Manchester
FROM GATWICK
Ireland
Cork
Dublin
Ireland West Airport
(Knock)
Shannon
FROMSHANNON
United Kingdom
London Heathrow
United Kingdom
with Aer Lingus
Regional
Operated by Aer Arann
Birmingham
Bristol
Edinburgh
Manchester
* Commencing March 25
Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK
Nice
SHANNON
CORK
BELFAST
Knock
Dublin
Amsterdam
Munich
Barcelona
Geneva
Alicante
Lanzarote Tenerife
Rome
Malaga
Paris
LONDON GATWICK
London Heathrow
Glasgow
Edinburgh
Manchester
Birmingham
Bristol
Las Palmas
Brussels
Faro
Lisbon
96 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS
To & FromDublin, Shannon & Madrid
FROM DUBLIN
USA
Boston
Chicago
New York
Orlando
FROM SHANNON
USA
Boston (commences
March 25)
New York (commences
March 26)
FROM MADRID
USA
Washington DC
Chicago
New York
Boston
Dublin
Shannon
Madrid
USA ROUTE NETWORK
Washington
Orlando
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 97
FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEWYORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO
New destinations with Aer
Lingus, in partnership with
JetBlue, United Airlines and
Aer Arann
Getting to the US from
destinations throughout
Europe has never been easier.
Now US, Irish and European
based customers can book
a single low fare reservation
between Ireland, Europe and
a wide range of continental US
destinations using JFK New
York, Boston and Chicago as
stopovers.
NEW YORK
Connecting with JetBlue at
JFK:
When you arrive from Dublin,
pick up your bags and clear
customs Then all you need to
do is drop o your bags at the
Aer Lingus transfer desk before
hopping onto the AirTrain to
JetBlues Terminal Five for your
domestic connection.
Passengers travelling from
the US to Ireland and Europe
will be able to check in bags at
the JetBlue domestic departure
point and then pick them up
again in Shannon or Dublin.
BOSTON
Connecting with JetBlue at
Boston Logan International
Airport:
When you arrive from Dublin,
pick up your bags and clear
customs. Turn left towards the
Aer Lingus transfer desk, where
you drop o your bags and then
take a short walk to Terminal
C for your JetBlue domestic
departure.
Passengers travelling from
the US to Ireland and Europe
will be able to check in bags at
the JetBlue departure point
and then pick them up again in
Shannon or Dublin.
CHICAGO
Connecting with United
Airlines at OHare Chicago
International Airport:
On arrival at Terminal Five from
Dublin, pick up your bags and
clear customs before rechecking
your bags at the United Airlines
Recheck Desk (which is to the
right of customs).
A nearby escalator takes
you to the ATS (Airport Transit
System), which runs every four
minutes, to Terminal Five and your
UA domestic departure point.
Passengers from the US to
Ireland and Europe can check in
bags at the UA departure point,
then exit security in Chicago
OHare to take the Airport
Transit System to Terminal
Five for the onward Aer Lingus
ight, and pick up their bags in
Shannon or Dublin.
DUBLIN
Connecting with Aer Lingus
Regional (operated by Aer
Arann) at Dublin Airport:
Aer Linguss interline agreement
with Aer Arann allows
passengers connect to Aer
Lingus transatlantic ights via
Dublin Airport, where they can
through check their luggage
directly to their nal US
destination.
All routes correct at time of going to press
Vancouver
Edmonton
Calgary
Winnipeg
Long Beach
Salt Lake City
Burbank
Minneapolis
CHICAGO
Kansas City
Saint Louis
Omaha
Dallas (Fort Worth)
Nashville
Atlanta
Orlando
SanJuan
Aguadilla
Ponce
WASHINGTON
(Dulles)
Fort Lauderdale
West PalmBeach
Fort Myers
NEWYORK
BOSTON
Toronto
Bualo
Detroit
Cleveland
Rochester
Columbus Indianapolis
Cincinnati
Lexington
Burlington
Syracuse
PortlandME
Seattle
PortlandOR
Denver
Sacramento
San Francisco
Oakland
Las Vegas
Los Angeles
San Diego
Phoenix
Austin
Houston
NewOrleans
Jacksonville
Tampa
Miami
Charlotte
Pittsburgh
Louisville
Richmond
Raleigh- Durham
Washington (National)
Baltimore
CONNECTINGEUROPE, USA & CANADA
98 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS
VIA DUBLIN
with Aer Lingus
Alicante
Amsterdam
Barcelona
Berlin
Birmingham
Brussels
Dusseldorf
Edinburgh
Faro
Frankfurt
Geneva
Krakow
Lisbon
London (Gatwick)
London (Heathrow)
Madrid
Malaga
Manchester
Milan (Linate)
Munich
Paris
Rome
Venice
Vienna
Warsaw
VIA DUBLIN
with Aer Lingus
Regional
Operated by Aer Arann
Aberdeen
Bristol
Cardi
Edinburgh
Glasgow
VIA SHANNON
with Aer Lingus
(commences March 26)
London (Heathrow)
Manchester
VIA NEWYORK
with JetBlue
Aguadilla
Austin
Baltimore
Bualo
Burbank
Burlington
Charlotte
Denver
Fort Lauderdale
Fort Myers
Houston
Jacksonville
Las Vegas
Long Beach
Los Angeles
New Orleans
Oakland
Orlando
Phoenix
Pittsburg
Ponce
Portland ME
Portland OR
Raleigh-Durham
Rochester
Sacramento
Salt Lake City
San Diego
San Francisco
San Juan
Seattle
Syracuse
Tampa
West Palm Beach
VIA BOSTON
with JetBlue
Baltimore
Bualo
Dallas Fort Worth
Denver
Ford Lauderdale
Fort Myers
Jacksonville
Las Vegas
Long Beach
Los Angeles
New Orleans
Oakland
Orlando
Phoenix
Pittsburg
Portland OR
Raleigh-Durham
Richmond
San Diego
San Francisco
San Juan
Seattle
Tampa
Washington (Dulles)
Washington
(National)
West Palm Beach
VIA CHICAGO
with United to USA
Atlanta
Austin
Charlotte
Cincinnati
Cleveland
Columbus
Dallas (Fort Worth)
Denver
Detroit
Houston
Indianapolis
Jacksonville
Kansas City
Las Vegas
Lexington
Los Angeles
Louisville
Miami
Minneapolis
Nashville
New Orleans
Omaha
Phoenix
Pittsburgh
Portland OR
Raleigh-Durham
Sacramento
San Diego
San Francisco
Seattle
St Louis
Tampa
VIA CHICAGO
with United to Canada
Calvary
Edmonton
Toronto
Vancouver
Winnipeg
Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
Dublin
Shannon
Lisbon
Faro
Malaga
Alicante
Barcelona
Madrid
Geneva
Krakow
Milan (Linate)
Naples
Rome
Venice
Warsaw
Aberdeen
Glasgow
Edinburgh
Bristol
Dusseldorf
Amsterdam
Brussels
Paris
Manchester
Birmingham
London (Heathrow)
London
(Gatwick)
Frankfurt
Berlin
Munich
Vienna
Cardi
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 99
100 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
Connecting at Heathrow Airport
Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to
the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes.
Please disembark From THe BACK oF THe airCraFT iF:
You are an international connecting passenger and all your
luggage* is checked through to your final destination
*Pushchairs checked to London can be collected
from the back of the aircraft
Please disembark From THe FRONT oF THe airCraFT iF:
london is your final destination
Your onward connection is to a domestic Uk airport
Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow
You would like to leave the airport between flights
You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance
CONNECTINGTOANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT
FLIGHTS ARRIvINGAT TERmINAL 2
If you already have a boarding card for your
connecting ight, and your baggage has been
tagged to your nal destination, simply follow the
sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which
you will see on your left hand side as you enter
the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you
will proceed to Immigration and Security Check.
After clearing these points, check the information
screens and proceed to your boarding gate.
If your baggage has not been tagged to your
final destination you must clear Immigration,
enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your
bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed
to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level.
Once you have reached the departures level,
check the information screens for your onward
flight information, and proceed as directed to
the appropriate check-in desk.
If you have any queries, or need further
assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight
Connections Desk, which is located in the
baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our
staff will be glad to help.
Please note: eU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin airport
Aer Lingus
Flight
Connections
Desk
Immigration
Immigration
Security
Check
Escalator
to Gates
401 - 426
Lifts
to Gates
401 - 426
Terminal 2
Arrivals
To Gates 100s -
300s
Arrivals Route to
Baggage Reclaim
from Gates 400s
FLIGhT ConnECTIonS
Connecting ight departs
Gates 100s - 300s
FLIGhT ConnECTIonS
Connecting ight departs
Gates 401 - 426
FlightConnections
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History comes to life at this
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Admission costs 3. Present this
voucher and youll pay just 4.
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Michelin Bib Gourmand
Glowla
Her name is glowla... her glam make-up
kit. Shes soft, seductive and Havana glam
time! Glowlas portable make-up kit is
packed with everything you need for an
unbelievably beautiful look! Glide on
warm luscious colour with the 5 shade
colour palette and pretty pink lip-gloss.
Its sooo good to be glowla!
Kit contains:
CORALista coral-pink
cheek powder with brush
High beam luminescent
complexion enhancer
Moon beam iridescent
complexion enhancer
5 shade shadow palette
BADgal lash mascara
Life on the A List lip gloss
Flu shadow / Hard angle brush
Dior Homme
Extremely rened, the
virile Dior Homme
perfectly and singularly
blends tradition and
modernity. Discover
this fragrance,
constructed around
an unprecedented
Tuscan iris accord with a
masculine touch.
The Knuttel Collection Tea
Tea Light Set
Vibrant and unique assorted
sets of tea lights, egg cups and
spoons along with shot glasses
by the internationally renowned
Irish artist Graham Knuttel for
Tipperary Crystal. There are 5
artworks featured in the sets:
Menu, The Terrace, Blue Lagoon,
Shark Ahoy and Seven Year Itch.
Presented in beautiful gift boxes,
this is a unique opportunity to
acquire striking and functional
items of artwork from one of
Irelands leading artists.
15-Year Anniversary Eyeshadow
Collection
Its Urban Decays party, and to celebrate were launching
15 new eyeshadow shades and only in this kit! With just the
right balance of neutrals and brights, darks and lights, the
15-Year Anniversary Palette is both versatile and the UD
junkies ultimate collection. Inside, the shadow tray pulls out
to reveal a compartment that can be used to stash jewellery
or whatever else youre hiding.
Celtic Wave
Gold-Plated
Pendant
Classic Celtic Knots are the
focus of this stunning open
work wave design pendant
which is made in rhodium
and gold-plate.
Aer Lingus Fun Plane
with FREE key-ring
Aer Lingus fun plane with realistic engine sounds and
ashing lights. It comes complete with batteries for
hours of fun.
Also included is a FREEgift of a miniature plane key-ring.
102 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
INFLIGHT SKY SHOPPING
Lego Private Jet
A great newfun model for you
to build. The pilot of this small,
private jet is ready to take his
passenger to new and exciting
destinations around the world.
Grab your luggage, fasten your
seatbelt and get ready for the trip!
Balenciaga LEssence
Balenciaga LEssence is a leathery violet fragrance, revealing a
vibrant trail of contemporary elegance. The violet leaves are set
ablaze with warm spices at the top, while the heart becomes more
sensual as the amber leathery facets of labdanum warm up the
violet to express an asserted femininity.
Rock, Sensual, Modern.
Sekonda Sports Chronograph
Mens Watch
Large mens sports watch with ivory cream dial,
1 second stopwatch timing up to one hour and
24 hour readout. This watch features a leather
strap and is water resistant to 50 metres.
Guaranteed for 2 years.
Britta Sunglasses
These womens sunglasses from Ted Baker are the essential
accessory and feature a zip-pull temple, inspired by Ted
Bakers apparel collection. A must-have for the fashion
conscious this season. Oering full UVA and UVB
protection, these sunglasses come complete with travel
case, cleaning cloth and a 1 year guarantee.
Sky Shopping
Pleasecheckyour
SkyShopping
brochurefor
all prices
Sky
Shoppi ng
Sekonda Womens 2 Tone
Analogue Dress Watch
Featuring a white mother-of-pearl dial and stone
set case. Water resistant to 50m, i.e. swimproof.
Guaranteed for 2 years.
Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing quality
items at reduced prices onboard during February/March.
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012 | 103
STRAP
104 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
a spectacular interpretation of three
poetic works by Elfriede Jelinek,
which comprised dance, choral
speech and a 30-piece male voice
choir. Oh, and they fooded the
entire stage for good measure.
Afterwards we stood outside
in the elegant gardens as the
audience mingled with the
cast. Children played on the
lawn with the entirely tame and
apparently much-loved rabbits that
share space with the artists and
technicians of the Festspielhaus. In
the foyer, the wonderful gay choir
had assembled for an impromptu
concert; it was the birthday of one
of their number and in his honour
they sang, without irony or faw
and in perfect close harmony, I
Will Bring You Flowers in the
Morning a hit popularised by
Agnetha Fltskog of Abba, no less.
I can tell you that this hardened
cynic had tears in her eyes, as
did many of the ber-cool young
theatre-makers of Ireland. Te
name of this choir is Zauberfoeten,
or Magic Flutes. Glorious.
Te next day we did Berlin by
bicycle. While it has a thoroughly
integrated vehicular
transport system,
Berlin is also one
of the most bike-
friendly cities in
the world. My
memory of the
Rough Magic
Company
mounted on
gleaming two-
wheeled steeds
is one that I will
treasure an
image of joyous
motion and a
perfect metaphor for theatre.
Stimulus and celebration; a
modern Renaissance city. I was never
so aware of the possibility of rebirth
than last spring in the magical,
civilised, wonderful Berlin.
Rough Magics production of Plaza
Suite runs February 20 to March 3; their
production of Improbable Frequency,
runs March 13-24; both at the Gaiety
Theatre, Dublin, 0818 719 388; gaiety.ie.
E
very time you visit Berlin
it changes you. Ive been
going there on and of for
ten years, but this time
had a particular resonance.
Maybe the sense of being at a turning
point made me doubly aware of the
watermark of history.
My theatre company Rough
Magic runs a programme called
SEEDS that aims to broaden the
horizons of emerging theatre-
makers. Te idea is to explore
creative possiblities, and theres no
better place to do that than central
Europe. Last year we included some
established artists (life-enhancing
trips shouldnt only be for the young)
and in May we all headed frst to
Warsaw, and then to Berlin. It was
in Berlin that the signifcance of that
journey dawned on me.
Both these cities had been
comprehensively fattened during
the war Berlin morally as well as
physically. Both have managed to
resurrect and re-energise, literally
out of the rubble. As we try
to come to terms with the
pickle that Ireland currently
fnds itself in, its inspiring
and chastening to witness
what can be achieved.
Its the vibrancy of the
cultural streetlife in the
less economically favoured
East that really grabs you.
Te radical Volksbhne
ofers experimental theatre
near Hackescher Markt, the
funkiest of shopping districts,
laden with good restaurants. Te
Deutsches Teater gives you equally
radical versions of the classics. Go
West and Hau, the Schaubhne and
the Festspielhaus ofer superb music
and great drama, especially during
the Teatertrefen, a magnifcent
festival of theatre from all over
Germany, Austria and Switzerland
that makes Berlin a mecca for
theatre-makers. Last year we saw
an extraordinary piece from Kln
called Das Werk/ Im Bus/ Ein Sturz
All thecitysa
Great drama,
two-wheeled
steeds and an
emotional ambush
by an impromptu
concert Lynne
Parker found it
all in Berlin.
TRIP OF A LIFETIME
stage
Theatre director Lynne Parker is inspired by a visit to the
magical, modern Renaissance city of Berlin.
O2-7621-6 Fixed Line-Caramag-OTL.indd 1 1/16/12 4:38 PM

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