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October/November 2012

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brilliantsheen
Get closetoactor
MartinSheen
nicethebeautiful
Author EmmaDonoghueon
her year inthesun
slopingoff
Escapetothe
JuraMountains
Up, up
&Away
ride the best waves in
mayoat the aer Lingus
Kite surf Pro
2012
Dublin Web Summit will attract over 3,000 of the worlds leading entrepreneurs, developers
and designers to a fantastic 2-day get-together this October.
AIB Corporate Banking Ireland
Making Business Happen
- Diarmuid ONeill, Head of AIB Corporate Banking Ireland
Contact Details: Diarmuid ONeill, Head of AIB Corporate Banking Ireland
Tel: +353 1 641 4808 Email: diarmuid.e.oneill@aib.ie Web: www.aib.ie/fdi
Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c., trading as AIB Corporate Banking Ireland, is
regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. Registered Offce: Bankcentre,
Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, Ireland. Registered in Ireland, No. 24173
TechCrunch
excellent
Wired
extraordinary
The Irish Times
Top of the Pile
As the leading corporate bank to international
companies locating in Ireland, AIB are proud to
sponsor the Dublin Web Summit.
We are delighted to welcome the worlds top tech
innovators to Dublin and we salute the spirit of
innovation that drives them constantly forward.
We know what it takes
to reach the Summit -
And so do 3,000 of the
worlds top tech innovators.
17th & 18th of October 2012
RDS, Ballsbridge, D4.
to reach the Summit -
DUBLIN
Features
28 brilliant sheen Veteran flm and TV
actor Martin Sheen discusses his career
and Irish roots with Tony Clayton-Lea
34 rOaD WarriOrs The Irish business
executives selling brand Ireland abroad;
Jamie Smyth takes to the road to speak
with the key individuals
46 highflying Writer Pl Conghaile
heads way out west and discovers thrills and
spills to be had kite surfng and more in Mayo
58 slOpingOff Escape the Alpine hordes
by heading for the slopes of the Jura
Mountains; Nicola Iseard discovers an
unspoilt haven
70 nice the beautiful Award-winning
novelist Emma Donoghue opens up on the
mesmerising city she has called home for
the past year
85 leafy paraDise Writer and native New
Englander Kim Knox Beckius takes us on a
bespoke leaf-peeping tour of her neck of
the woods
Contents October/November
News
04 ArrivAls We meet the fresh
new arrivals at Dublins T2
07 News DiAry The dates to save
for October and November
08 News hotels Stays at a cool
urban hangout and a rural retreat
10 News restAurANts Top
dining treats with Eoin Higgins
12 News DiAry NY/LONThread
Aoife ORiordain reports on the
NewYork restaurants in London
14 News BusiNess Smart
Traveller Interior design
specialist Denise Ryan on Milans
business hotspots
16 News shoppiNg Gadgets
to go brilliant bike accessories
fromSive OBrien
18 News BeAuty togo Scent
of a woman; Ellie Balfe showcases
the seasons new perfumes
20 News people On my Travels
chef Dylan McGrath tells his tales
22 News people Whats in my
Suitcase fashion forward Sorcha
Raghallaigh opens her case
24 News Books Shelf Life
Bridget Hourican leafs through
the new releases
26 News oN the rADAr Festive
Flair Eoin Higgins rounds up the
best Christmas markets
regulars
91 AN iNsiDers guiDe to
frANkfurt Sarah OKeefe
shares her city secrets
94 48 hours iN stockholm
City cool Kate ODowd saunters
through the Swedish city streets
97 Aer liNgus iNflight Whats
on for October and November
movies, music and infight
information
120trip of Alifetime Actor,
writer and 1980s heart throb,
28
Irish link
Martin
Sheen
46
Exhilarating
thrills Mayo
70
Natural beauty Nice
16
EDITORIAL
Editor Frances Power
Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins
Editorial Consultant Laura George
Editorial Assistant Carlynn McCarthy
Contributors Sive OBrien, Amanda Cochrane,
Ellie Balfe, Suzie Coen
ART
Art Director Clare Meredith
Acting Art Director Sandra Horan
ADVERTISING
Account Director Clodagh Edwards
+353 (0)1 271 9634, clodagh.edwards@image.ie
Advertising Manager Nolle OReilly
+353 (0)1 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie
Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan
+353 (0)1 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie
ADMINISTRATION
Head of PR&Promotions Linda McEvitt
+353 (0)1 271 9643, linda.mcevitt@image.ie
Ofce Manager Tina Koumarianos
Accounts Olga Gordeychuk
Accounts Assistant Lisa Dickenson
BOARDOF DIRECTORS
Managing Director &Publisher
Richard Power, richard.power@image.ie
Chairman Patrick Dillon-Malone
Director Ann Reihill
Director Robert Power
PRINTINGBoylan Print Group
ORIGINATIONTypeform
Caramagazine is publishedon behalf of Aer Lingus by Image
Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, CoDublin,
Ireland, +353 (0)1 2808415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271
9625; fax +353 (0)1 2808309; image.ie, email info@image.ie.
Company registration number 56663
Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial
material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do
not necessarily refect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE
Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd
do not accept responsibility for the advertising content.
Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions
will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright
and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part
is prohibited without prior permission fromIMAGE
Publications Ltd.
Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.
IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press
Council of Ireland and supports the Ofce of the Press
Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit
pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie
IMAGE Publications Ltd
PUBLISHINGCOMPANY OF THE YEAR 2010
TOADVERTISE
PLEASE CALL NOLLE OREILLY ON+353 (0)1 271 9621
OR EMAIL NOELLE.OREILLY@IMAGE.IE
Contributors
Editor at large for National Geographic Traveler
magazine, ANDREWMCCARTHY has written
for the New York Times, The Atlantic and The
Wall Street Journal. He was recently named
Travel Journalist of the Year by the Society of
American Travel Writers. Despite these dubious
achievements, Andrew is best known for kissing
Molly Ringwald (in Pretty in Pink), dragging
a dead body through two flms (Weekend at
Bernies I & II) and for trying to keep Robert
Downey Jr. of drugs (Less Than Zero). His
memoir, The Longest Way Home, has just been
released. His story (see page 120) is an example
of one of the multitude of things discussed in
the book that I have had to get over in order to
get on with life.
Based in London, NICOLAISEARDis an
award-winning freelance travel writer. She is
also the editor of Fall-Line, a skiing magazine,
so she spends much of her time on the slopes
something shes had a passion for since she
learnt to ski at four years old. Last winter,
Nicola travelled to the Jura Mountains,
tucked in the northern French Alps, for Cara.
A world away from fast-paced Geneva just
15 minutes away, this is a peaceful region,
carpeted with vast stretches of wilderness,
remarks Nicola. But, despite having three
ski areas, it is relatively undiscovered by the
hoards of skiers that descend upon the Alps.
For my husband, Christian, and I looking for a
long weekends ski jaunt, it was a no-brainer.
Hailing from Dublin, but based in London,
Ontario, EMMA DONOGHUE is a novelist,
playwright and literary historian whose
latest book of stories, Astray, is all about
journeys. Her new play The Talk of the Town
premieres at the Dublin Theatre Festival (to
October 14). With her partner and children,
Donoghue recently spent ten months in Nice
on the French Riviera (see page 70) eating way
too many pains au chocolat (which, she was
delighted to learn, are at least considerably
lower-calorie than pains au raisin). The only
problem is that when I tell people about it,
their eyes slightly cross with resentful envy,
she laughs. Theres a quality of beauty to the
place that gave every ordinary day there an
extraordinary overtone.
ON THE COVER
Kitesurfng on Achill Island,
Co Mayo, in the run-up to the
Aer Lingus Kite Surf Pro.
Photographed by Peter
Dybowski and David Sciora
of Big Smoke Studio.
4 | october/november 2012
Arrivals
This month, Dublin Airports T2 played host to
sports enthusiasts, holiday makers and trips down
memory lane. Cara magazine snapped some of
them. Photographs by Anthony Woods.
matthews are in Dublin to take
part in a friendly tournament of the
little-known sport, Jugger. Both from
Australia, they will head on to the World
Championships in Berlin.
Daniel valencia
We spotted DIT
student, aisling
KenneDy, left, with
her delighted mum,
grainne, right, as
she returns from a six-
week stint of working
and travelling around
the United States.
wn
, left, ft,
and Daniel valencia

studen
Ke
her
gra
she
we
and
the
Twins PatricK, left, and michael
graDus, right, are visiting with their
college football team St Norbert in the
US. This is their second visit, last time,
they came to support their sister, a
professional Irish dancer.
ampionships

from Milan, Italian expat, elena


schnur and her kids matilDe and
leonarDoerricocant wait to
get back to their Sandymount home.
and
matthews are in Dublin to take
the cazucfamily, from left, Ciara, Killian, Mary
and Erwan are of to Co Leitrim to visit Marys parents,
who are celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary.
Then it is back home to Geneva.
from left, Ciara, Killian, Ma christaand niKolaus sches have
returned to Nikolauss old stomping ground,
Dublin. The hamburg native worked as a
shipbroker in Dun Laoghaire in the 1960s
and has carried a torch for the place ever
since.

joe
clohosey
where he received
a scholarship to
play hurling for the
summer.
Every great city has an iconic store.
A store which celebrates luxury, creativity, service and the
very best Irish and international brands since 1849.
GRAFTONSTREET DUBLIN, PATRICK STREET CORK, OCONNELL STREET LIMERICK, EGLINGTONBUILDINGS GALWAY
WWW.BROWNTHOMAS.COM
WELCOME
TO
BROWN THOMAS
Blarney Castle & Gardens
Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence
See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Irelands greatest chieftains.
Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.
Open all year round

5 miles from Cork

Open Monday- Sunday 9-6
www.blarneycastle.ie

info@blarneycastle.ie
october/november 2012 | 7
news Diary
22
The Sleeping Beauty, Cork
Cork City Ballet presents Tchaikovskys classic
ballet, The Sleeping Beauty, at the Cork Opera
House. The title role is performed by Russian ballet
star Ekaterina Bortyakova, while the choreography
is directed by Bolshoi Ballets Yuri Demakov. The
combo of sophistication and expertise makes
this an irresistible performance for even the most
discerning ballet fan. Runs November 22-24.
Tickets from15; corkcityballet.com
Jewellery Box irelands
Hidden Gems, newyork
In 2010 photographer
Daragh Muldowney travelled
around the Irish coast armed
with two cameras and a
multitude of macro lenses in
a quest to get a closer look
at the fascinating life within
the countrys rock pools.
The resulting exhibition,
sponsored by Aer Lingus,
showcases these colourful
worlds at their best.At the
Irish Consulate in New
York. Runs October 4- 31.
dulraphotography.com
aer LinGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO
new yOrK DAILY AND SHANNON TO
new yOrK, MON, WED, FRI AND SUN.
4
October/November
11
worldHandball Championships,
Dublin
Ready? Set? Throw! Hot on the
heels of the Olympics, the Citywest
International Arena, Dublin, plays host
to globetrotting handball players and
enthusiasts at the 2012 World Handball
Championships. The event is one of
the biggest on the handball circuit
and takes place over eleven days on a
22-court purpose-built arena; crowds
of up to 2,500are expected daily.
Runs October 11-21. Tickets from10;
worldhandball2012.com
19
scottish international storytelling
Festival, edinburgh &Glasgow
Celebrating the bicentennial of the
publication of the Brothers Grimm
tales, this festival delves into the
mysterious world of European folklore
with live storytelling and interactive
discussions with some of the leading
experts in folk tales fromPoland,
Ireland and Germany. Highlight? The
Enchanted Wood a day trip to the
Botanic Garden in Edinburgh where
fairytales are brought to life by the
Scottish Youth Theatre is a magic
family day out. Runs October 19-28.
scottishstorytellingcentre.co.uk
aerLinGUs FLIES FROMDUBLINANDCORKTO
eDinBUrGHDAILYANDFROMSHANNON, MON,
TUE,WED, THUR, FRI, SUN. aerLinGUs FLIES FROM
DUBLINTOGLasGOwDAILYANDFROMCORK, MON,
WED, THUR, FRI ANDSUN.
1
Jazzfest, Berlin
Berlin once again confrms its
credentials as one of the coolest
capitals in Europe with this years
Jazzfest. Programming looks at how
Jazz has afected society and has
reacted with other mediums like tap
dance, flmand poetry. Highlights
include performances by US jazz
saxophonist Archie Shepp and French
percussionist Manu Katch. Runs
November 1-4. Tickets from15;
berlinerfestspiele.de
aerLinGUs FLIES FROMDUBLINTO
BerLinDAILY.
8 | october/november 2012
news hotels
Escape Escape
FAZenDA noVA, PoRtUGAl
Busy Londoners Timand Hallie Robinson longed for a new
life away fromthe stresses of the city. The upshot of that
longing is a lovingly restored 19th-century farmhouse in
the eastern Algarve. Fazenda Nova is a ten-suite, boutique
hideaway with an understated beauty that carries fromthe
rooms to the impressive restaurant, A Cozinha, which uses
seasonal produce fromthe farmhouses gardens and local
markets. Bread is baked fresh every morning in the original
200-year-old oven almost worth making the trip for that
alone. Rooms from170. Estiramantens, Santo Estevao
8800-504, Tavira, +351 281 961 913; fazendanova.eu
AeRlInGUs FLIES FROMDUBLINTOFARoDAILY ANDFROMCORK TO
FARo, MON, TUE, WED, THUR, SAT ANDSUN.
wYthe hotel, newYoRK
A former cooperage, the Wythe has become a
magnet for cool Brooklynites since it opened in
May. Besides its slick appearance the interior
boasts avant-garde art and locally crafted
wallpaper the Wythe also hosts many ber-
modern amenities to drawthe crowds. Theres a
show-stopping giant glass cube on the roof that
opens onto a bar, bike-sharing, valet parking and
mini-bars that stock home-made ice cream. And
all thats before you check out the restaurant,
Reynards, brainchild of renowned Brooklyn
restaurateur AndrewTarlow. Rooms from$179.
80 Wythe Avenue at North 11th, Williamsburg,
Brooklyn, +1 718 460 8000; wythehotel.com
AeRlInGUs FLIES FROMDUBLINTOnewYoRK DAILY
ANDFROMSHANNONMON, WED, FRI ANDSUN.
BAllYnAtRAYhoUse AnD
estAte, CoRK
Shake the moth balls fromyour tweeds,
pull on your galoshes and make like the
gentry this winter with a self-catering stay
at Ballynatray Estate in Co Cork. Big house
activities include simulated game shooting,
archery and fshing. Foodies will be happy
too just a stones throwaway you have
the renowned Ballymaloe cookery school
and restaurant. Accommodation comes in
many forms, none more romantic than the
Boat House, above: a tiny cottage perched
on the edge of the River Blackwater.
Spend your weekend sipping something
amusing on your balcony or relaxing in the
roll-top bath watching the wildlife pass by.
Cottages from165. Ballynatray, Youghal,
Co Cork, 024 97460; ballynatray.com
VIGIlIUs MoUntAInResoRt, ItAlY
Leave your stresses and worries behind as you make
the 1,500-metre ascent to this award-winning eco
resort in South Tyrol, overlooking the Dolomites
(its only accessible via cable car). The resorts sleek
architecture all pine, glass, reclaimed timber and
a grass-covered roof slots efortlessly into the
location, its materials refecting the environment.
Here, you can relax in one of the eleven treatment
rooms, fnd inner peace at the yoga workshops, relax
in the open air sauna, or feel the burn toboganning,
snow-hiking or skiing on Mount San Vigilio. Escape
doesnt come more defnitive than this. Rooms
from225. Monte S. Vigilio, Pavicolo 43, 39011 Lana
South Tyrol, +39 0473 556 600; vigilius.it
AeRlInGUs FLIES FROMDUBLINTOVeRonA, TUE, WED,
THUR ANDSAT.
Like history? then youll love Torre Prendiparte, one of Bolognas fewsurviving medieval towers.
the twelfth-century fortress is a staggering 65 metres high, has twelve foors, some 18th-century graffti and has
been converted into a one bedroomB&B. it also hosts chamber music concerts on its rooftop; prendiparte.it
This iconic building on Dublins Henry Street is Irelands largest and
longest established department store. Arnotts is home to the worlds best
in beauty, fashion for men and women, homewares, all the latest in technology
and Irelands largest and loveliest shoe department, The Shoe Garden.
There are several places to eat, including Clodaghs Kitchen, in which
everything is homemade by celebrity chef Clodagh McKenna. In other words,
Arnotts is more than just shopping. It is an experience.
Whatevers next,
since 1843.
Arnotts, 12 Henry Street, Dublin 1 / 01 805 0400
Follow us on Twitter!
@arnottsdublin
Like us on Facebook!
Arnotts Department Store
Shop online www.arnotts.ie
10 | october/november 2012
The Dingle Food & Wine Festival runs fromOctober 4-7 and celebrates a plethora of the regions most
acclaimed foodie and drinkie heroes through cookery demos, tastings, markets, taste trails
and many other delicious happenings and events. dinglefood.com
news restaurants
OsterIanerODaVOLa, taOrMIna
Tucked away fromthe whirl of fashion and gelato
on Taorminas main drag, Turi Siligatos, left,
osteria-cum-enoteca is a slowfood experience
worth unwinding to. Presentation isnt too fancy;
service is just the right side of attentive; and
although prices may be a smidge higher than some
other osterias around town, it is worth it to savour
Turis enthusiasmfor local produce. Start with
a stimulating Mediterranean sashimi plate and
followwith the simple, yet memorable spaghetti
with cherry tomatoes and mouthwatering Sicilian
specialty, tuna bottarga. For honest, region-
specifc fare, served in relaxed surroundings,
this one is hard to beat in Taormina. Piazza San
Domenico 2B, Taormina, Sicily, +39 0942 628 874;
osterianerodavola.com
From a burger joint to a luxury brasserie, Eoin Higgins fnds plenty to warm his cockles.
PrunIer, ParIs
Designed by the architect Louis-Hippolyte
Boileau in 1925, a cursory glance at the meticulous
craftsmanship here in black marble, mosaics
and stained-glass windows might make you think
that they simply dont make restaurants like this
anymore. Ashame, for Emile Pruniers vision to
create a restaurant that venerated the edible gifts
fromthe sea, is nothing if not spellbinding. High on
Marco Pierre Whites hotlist too: I think [Prunier]
is one of the most beautiful restaurants in the
world, well actually the most beautiful restaurant
in the world , Prunier is the epitome of a luxury
brasserie, as well as being an Art Deco jewel in
central Paris. Agrand cathedral to seafood; the
lunch menu at 45 is a good bet. 16 Avenue Victor
Hugo, Paris, +33 144 173 585; prunier.com
aerLIngus FLIES FroMDuBLInAnDcork ToParIs DAILy.
tHe strawBerrYtree, COwICKLOw
Irelands only certifed organic restaurant deserves
acclaimfor its rarity as a species as much as
anything else; but it should also be loved for its
creative use of local produce, considered execution
and its refreshing, rural setting. upon arrival, expect
to dodge skittering chickens and dopey pheasants,
all of which have free rein within the grounds. once
ensconced in the slightly surreal, blue dining room,
service is formal yet relaxed. The tasting menu
(65 per person) is the thing to go for. Its hard not
to be impressed by the organic punchiness of the
favours and the integrity of the food here, and
leaving with a desire to lead a more earth-friendly
life is not uncommon, even if the motivation is
gluttonous As well as being fully organic, much
of the menu lists wild produce, fromfresh-picked
leaves to salmon (when in season), its a very
natural, and all too unusual, way to eat. Macreddin
Village, co Wicklow, 0402 36 444; brooklodge.com
Food File
BOstOnBurgerCOMPanY, BOstOn
The burger revolution continues to roll out in cities
across the Western hemisphere. Howthe humble
patty and bap has become such a gastro staple
is a mystery to some, but while certain places are
evolving and elevating the modest burger, still
others are jumping on the bandwagon in the hopes
of making a quick buck. Its a polarising trend. one
of the evolutionists though is the Boston Burger
company in the citys hip Davis Square. Twenty-
four combinations reveal a great hunger for burger
variety in Beantown and the rest of the menu has
its diverse moments too Spicy Terodactyl [sic]
wings anyone? Multifariousness aside, the Boston
Burger co is also a great leveller, where both the
simple burger lover and the gourmand should
fnd something to chewover. 37 Davis Square,
Somerville, +1 617 440 7361; bostonburgerco.com
aer LIngus FLIES FroM DuBLIn ToBOstOn DAILy AnD
FroM SHAnnon ToBOstOn TuE, THur, SAT AnD Sun.
aerLIngus FLIES FroMDuBLInToCatanIaWEDAnDSun.
12 | october/november 2012
T
he relationship between
London and New York has
always been a bit special.
Tese two great world cities
have a lot in common. Increasingly
so when it comes to their eating
habits, with several New York
restaurants, which are eager to
emulate their success on the other
side of the Atlantic, scheduled
to open this year and next in the
British capital.
You could be forgiven for
thinking that you had arrived at
the wrong place, but the front of
La Bodega Negra (+44 207 758
4100; labodeganegra.com) on Old
Compton Street in the heart of Soho
is an ironic nod to its surroundings:
the basement restaurants ground
foor exterior reads Sex Shop.
Tis London sibling to hipster
favourite, La Esquina, in downtown
Manhattan, had queues out the
door when it opened last March.
Similar to New York, upstairs its a
walk-in style diner with a Mexican
slant, featuring the likes of tacos and
tostadas.
Londoner Keith McNally moved
to New York in the 1970s and since
then has become one of the kings of
the citys dining scene, with a clutch
of ber-trendy eateries. Among them
are the Meatpacking Districts Pastis,
the Minetta Tavern and the all-day
dining Balthazar, his Parisian-style
brasserie-cum-bakery set in Spring
Street in the heart of Soho. So it
was only a matter of time before he
decided to bring it all back home.
Needless to say, Balthazar London,
set to open in Covent Gardens
Russell Street, promises to be one
of the capitals most hyped new
openings this autumn.
Manhattan hotspot,
SUSHISAMBA was immortalised
in the television series Sex and Te
City and the party atmosphere still
prevails, even though Carrie and
pals have moved on. Its Brazilian-
meets-Peruvian-meets-Japanese
menu has proved popular stateside
with a chain of four restaurants. Its
frst European venture opened in
July in arguably one of Londons
most spectacular dining rooms on
the 38th and 39th foors of Heron
Tower, the tallest building in the
City of London (+44 203 640 7330;
sushisamba.com). Here diners are
treated to menu favourites such
as the Moqueca Mista, a stock of
shrimp, squid and lobster with
coconut milk, cashew nut and
chimichurri rice as well as the El
Topo roll of salmon, jalapeno pepper,
shiso leaf, mozzarella and crispy
onion. Come nightfall, the twinkling
lights of the capital work their magic
with Te Shard, Te Gherkin and
Tower Bridge all visible.
Meanwhile, the BBC World
Services former home has been
transformed into the home of
the newly opened ME Hotel. Its
restaurant, which opens this
October, is the frst European
branch of STK (stkhouse.com),
imported from Manhattans
Meatpacking District.
NY/LONThread
The view from
SUSHISAMBA on
the 38th and 39th
foors of Londons
iconic Heron
Tower takes in the
London landmark,
The Gherkin.
Te American invasion of London
does not stop there either Londons
diners have further culinary imports
to look forward to. Andr Balazs
plans to open his frst luxury hotel
in Marylebone next year; it is
rumoured that the achingly hip
Standard Grill may be the in-house
restaurant.
Meanwhile, with a site secured in
Mayfair, Londoners will soon be able
to enjoy the relaxed yet sophisticated
approach of A Voce to traditional
Italian fare. Its two branches in
Manhattan, at Columbus Circle
and Madison Avenue, are already
frm favourites with Italophile New
Yorkers, thanks to delicious rifs on
classics conceived by executive chef
Missy Robbins. Watch this space ...
1
NEW YORK The frst Hakkasan
(hakkasan.com) was tucked in a
basement down a tiny alleyway of
the wrong end of Oxford Street, but
its winning formula of sophisticated
Chinese cuisine, killer cocktails and
its signature glamorous interiors has
found fans all over the world. Its
latest American venture opened in
West 43rd Street in Manhattan in
April and several more are planned.
2
bOlOgNa Bologna is one of
Italys most celebrated gourmet
hotspots and right in the centre
of the citys atmospheric historical
centre is Eataly bologna (eataly.it) a
ftting tribute to all things Italian. Part
of a growing chain, which now also
has a sprawling branch in New York, it
encompasses a market, grocery store,
caf and several restaurants all under
one roof.
3
paRis One of Frances most
celebrated chefs, Jol Robuchon,
has found worldwide fame with
his expensive mini-chain, latelier de
Jol Robuchon. His take on haute
cuisine tapas can be found from London
to Las Vegas. However the original,
designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon and
with 40 seats set around a sleek black
bar on the Left Bank of Paris, remains
the most chic (joel-robuchon.net).
Londoners enjoy a taste of the Big Apple as
some of NYCs best-loved restaurants open up
shop. Aoife ORiordain reports.
3globalrestaurants...
NEWs diaRY
travel happy
14 | october/november 2012
news Business travel
Want to make the right moves in Milan? Lisa Hughes fnds out where to go.
Smart traveller
1
tHeBalMOral This Rocco Forte
Hotel is a Scottish favourite and has
regularly been cited as one of the UKs
top business hotels. A landmark because
of its majestic clock tower, the Balmoral
is next to Waverley Station and ofers an
exclusive reception venue, private dining
and seven of the best corporate meeting
rooms in the city. (1 Princes Street, +44 131
556 2414; thebalmoralhotel.com)
2
tHerutlanD For a boutique
business ofering with a touch of
glamour, the Rutland Hotel is hard
to beat. The twelve rooms come equipped
with the latest technology, including
high-speed Wi-Fi, and the hotel is located
between the main shopping area and busy
fnancial district. (1-3 Rutland Street, +44 131
229 3402; therutlandhotel.com)
3
aPeXinternatiOnalHOtel
Designed with the business traveller
in mind, this four-star hotels rooms
are all about creating a work environment
away from the ofce. Free Wi-Fi, free local
phone calls, large work stations and seven
fully equipped meeting rooms for groups
of two to 250 are just part of the Apex
experience. (31-35 Grassmarket,
+44 131 441 0440; apexhotels.co.uk)
4
eDinBurGHCitYHOtel A more
afordable option, the City Hotel
has special business traveller
rates and has a convenient city centre
location. Rooms are spacious, Wi-Fi is
free and value dining starts from 11.99.
(79 Lauriston Place, +44 131 622 7979,
edinburghcityhotel.com)
5
sHeratOnGranDHOtelanD
sPa hosts the Link@Sheraton,
an innovative social space with
computers, free Wi-Fi and sofas for guests.
Club Room guests can access the stylish
Sheraton Club Lounge for snacks
throughout the day. (1 Festival Square, +44
131 229 9131; sheratonedinburgh.co.uk)
5BESTBUSINESShoTElS
INEdINBUrgh
As director of Fineline Interior Design,
Denise Ryan specialises in the interior
design of bars, restaurants and hotels
in Ireland and overseas. Here she
shares the lowdown on her favourite
city for business, Milan.
Best for business
lunch My favourite
restaurant for authentic
Milanese dining is Da
Giacomo restaurant (Via
Pasquale Sottocorno, 6;
giacomomilano.com). It is a
little pricy but the experience
is perfect every time. If I
want a quick bite at any
time of day, I love the Princi
Bakeries not just for their
impeccable design but also
their fantastic breads.
Best for business drinks
The Italians dont quite do
bars like we do in Ireland, so
business drinks are better
in hotels. the Bulgari Hotel
(Via Privata Fratelli Gabba,
7/b; bulgarihotels.com)
would be my frst choice,
or alternatively the Gray
Hotel (Via San Rafaele, 6;
hotelthegray.com)
Best business hotel I like
to stay at the starhotels
e.c.ho. (Viale Andrea Doria,
4; starhotels.com) or, if its
unavailable, then the Hotel
Berna (Via Torriani Napo, 18;
hotelberna.com), as both are
reasonably priced and
within a short walk of
the main train station
in Milan.
tipping Some
restaurants include
a service charge in
their prices but its
not uncommon for the locals
either to tip very little or not
at all. As a visitor it is not
expected but appreciated
depending on the service and
the meal.
saving time The biggest
drain on time is catching up
on emails when I get back so
I keep on top of emails when
Im waiting for a fight or
when I have downtime. I used
a BlackBerry but now fnd the
iPhone infnitely better.
Doing business in Milan for
the frst time Research
your travel dates carefully
to ensure there are no
large fairs on at the Fiera
rho Milano as this could
quadruple your hotel bill.
travel tip When travelling
for business, I wrap my
ironed clothes individually in
the plastic that dry cleaning
comes in and then fold them.
Clothes crease clothes, but
this way, there is no need to
iron the clothes when you
get there.
On your downtime I love
strolling around the Brera
District, browsing through
boutique shops and trendy
cafs. 10 Corso Como
(Corso Como, 10, +39 02
2900 2674; 10corsocomo.
com) is a haven for anyone
interested in design because
of its courtyard cafs,
bohemian wares and books
on architecture, interiors,
graphic and fashion design.
I have yet to see an opera at
la scala (Via Filodrammatici,
2; teatroallascala.org)
but its on my list!
lITTlEBlackBookMilan
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16 | october/november 2012
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18 | october/november 2012
MY BEAUTY MUSTS
Irish DJ and model
Vogue Wilson,
who now lives
in sunny
Australia,
shares her
tips on how to
look fresh after
flying from one
side of the world to
the other.
YOUR FAVOURITE BEAUTY
PRODUCT FOR LONG FLIGHTS?
A good moisturiser is always a staple.
I love Declors Experience de Lge
Triple Action Rich Cream; I always
get dry skin on long-haul fights so this
makes sure I don t.
YOUR TOP TIP FOR STAYING
FRESH ON FLIGHTS? I always
take of my make-up during a long-
haul fight, then I moisturise at least
once every couple of hours. Its great
to use a face mist too and I think the
Declor masks are amazing. Everybody
always says drink loads of water but
I don t usually stick to that! On short
fights I don t really have a routine; they
are the time to sit back with a glass of
wine and read magazines.
YOUR MAKE-UP ROUTINE BEFORE
YOU GET OFF A FLIGHT? I always
wear sunglasses because they cover
tired eyes. I put on my MAC foundation
and add some Strobe Cream, also from
MAC, underneath, so my skin looks
glowy. Then I just use a bit of lip gloss
and Im good to go.
DO YOU USE ANY MULTI-PURPOSE
PRODUCTS? I like to use a cream
blush as a lip balm. It adds a really
natural touch of colour without looking
too strong.
YOUR FAVOURITE DESTINATION?
I don t really have one but I like
anywhere hot. If I had to choose one
I would say Ireland, since moving to
Australia this is defnitely my favourite
place to come back to.
YOUR LAST BEAUTY PURCHASE?
My make-up artist gave me a wedding
package of all the essentials I needed on
the day. I got lots of lip-glosses because
Im obsessed with them.
ANY PRODUCTS YOU STOCK UP ON
WHILE ABROAD? I always bring loads
of Paw Paw cream home from Australia
for my friends, its amazing.
NEWS BEAUTY
4
Coco Noir by
Chanel, 92, is the
next step in the
Coco franchise. With
a darker, more broody
sophistication than
Mademoiselle,
Noir contains pink
peppercorn,
rose, narcissus
and jasmine
with lower
notes of
cedar
and rose
geranium.
Contained in a
truly beautiful
black bottle, this is a
stunning fragrance
and a defnite
classic in the
making.
5
Private
Blend
Jardin Noir
is a quartet of
fragrances for
autumn from Tom
Ford. Each one celebrates
and re-imagines four
of the most treasured
blooms in
perfumery. Lys
Fume, 165, is
based on a night-
blooming tropical
white lily but you
wouldn t recognise
it; Ford has added
ylang ylang,
nutmeg, turmeric
and West Indian
demerara rum
essence to create a
dreamy, hypnotic warmth.
This scent series is one
to covet.
BeautyONTHE GO
1
Every Jo
Malone
launch is
something to
look forward
to and
Blackberry
& Bay, 46,
is the latest
olfactory
ofering from
the brand.
Comprising
notes of blackberries,
freshly picked bay leaves
and zesty grapefruit, it
is a super-fresh, vaguely
nostalgic scent that is
sure to be a best-seller.
2
Manifesto is a
sophisticated and
glamourous
fragrance from
Yves Saint Laurent,
53.50. Extremely
feminine, this perfume
contains jasmine,
tonka bean and fresh
green notes, which
add a modern edge
to its intensely
foral heart.
3
Julia Roberts
is the
ambassadress
for Lancmes
latest and much-
anticipated, La Vie
Est Belle, 47. The
fragrance was created
by three of Frances
most esteemed
perfumers and took
three years to create.
Based on the iris,
with jasmine,
orange
blossom and
Indonesian
patchouli, it is
a beautiful foral fragrance
with depth. It is the
brands biggest fragrance
launch since Trsor back
in the 1990s and one that
will no doubt become one
of the next generation
iconic scents.
s
3
Julia Roberts with jasmine
TY MUSTS
model
,
r
e
rld to
SUPERSPA... October sees Dublins Shelbournehotel expandingtoincludean
excitingfve-star spafor all dedicatedbeautylovers. Featuringtop-tier treatment
brands, Elemis andPevonia... thenewspatobeseenin; theshelbourne.ie
Fresh fragrances: picks the best of the new
perfumes launching this season.
Introducing beautiful pav charms for Christmas.
Express your story and create a wish at pandora.net
Dublin
35 Grafton St.
Dublin
Arnotts
Henry St.
Dundrum
Level 1
DundrumTown
Centre
Blanchardstown
Red Mall
Blanchardstown
Centre
Tallaght
Level 2
The Square
Terminal 1 &
Terminal 2
Dublin Airport
Cork
9 Winthrop St.
Limerick
Crescent Shopping
Centre
Dooradoyle
Galway
Williamsgate St.
Waterford
18 John Robert
Square
High St.
PANDORA STORES
Terminal 1 &
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Dublin Airport
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35 Grafton St.
STRAP
20 | october/november 2012
Chef Dylan McGrath gives Suzie Coen a taste of his favourite
international restaurants and his top travel hotspots.
TRAVELLINGFOR WORK IS ALWAYS A
PLEASURE ... Im just back from a research
trip to Barcelona, San Sebastian and London,
where I visited 24 restaurants in four days. The
highlight was lunch in Le Gavroche in London
where I had chef Michel Roux Jrs signature
trufe and squab pigeon dish.
MY CULINARY HEROES ARE ... David Chang
for his commercial understanding of the
business; Pierre Gagnaire for his brilliant talent
and artistic approach and Ferran Adri, who
taught us howimportant time is and howwe use it.
I DONT TEACH PEOPLE HOWTOCUT
CARROTS ... Its about presenting possibilities.
I believe that if you apply emotion and
repetition and tap into a vision for your team,
theres every chance that you will succeed.
THE BEST PART OF MASTERCHEF IRELAND
IS ... Watching Irish amateurs develop in a way
you didnt think was possible and witnessing
how their confdence builds when they realise
how talented they really are.
MY LAST SUPPER WOULD BE ... A dish of
foie gras cooked in Sauternes.
BUT SOMETIMES ALL I WANT TOEAT IS ...
Chip sandwiches. With brown sauce. Its not a
regular occurrence, though!
IF YOURE IN NEWYORK, YOUVE GOT
TOTRY ... Momofuku Ko in the East Village.
Owned by David Chang, this tiny Asian
In 2006, Belfast-born Dylan McGrath came to Dublin to take up the head chef position at Mint
Restaurant in Ranelagh, where he was soon awarded a Michelin star. When Mint closed down,
he opened a more casual dining experience in the form of Rustic Stone on Dublins South Great
Georges Street. Tis month sees the opening of his latest venture, Fade Street Social, a 745-square-
metre building in the heart of Dublin, housing two separately styled restaurants. Dylan is also a
co-presenter and judge on the second series of Masterchef Ireland, currently showing on RT Two.
1
COASTEERING IN
PEMBROKESHIRE This
unusual activity was invented in
Pembrokeshire, where a tradition of
legging it over clifs and jumping into
the sea for fun, left, has existed for
decades. Don a wetsuit, helmet and
suitable footwear and careen your way
around caves, lagoons, clifs and rock
pools. tyf.com/coasteering
2
CRAG CLIMBING IN
CONNEMARA Feel the
adrenaline coarse through your
veins as you hang on to the sheer face
of the Mweelrea Massif overlooking
the stunning Killary Fjord. Hike into the
crag and begin climbing and abseiling
diferent routes at all levels of difculty
under the watchful eye of specialist
instructors. delphimountainresort.com
3
MOUNTAIN BIKING IN
VERMONT The historic town of
Grafton in Vermont is home to
the Grafton Ponds Outdoor Center.
A fully comprehensive adventure
activity destination, Grafton excels in
its mountain biking ofering. From fat
to steep and single track to expansive,
theyve got some of the best riding in
New England. graftonponds.com
On my Travels
NEWS PEOPLE
restaurant boasts two Michelin stars,
seats just twelve customers and
ofers a set tasting menu for dinner
which usually lasts about ten courses.
The food is always delicious.
MY FAVOURITE EUROPEAN
CHEFS ARE TRUE ARTISTS ...
Im constantly inspired by the
adventurous menus at Sketch in
London, as conceived by chef Pierre
Gagnaire. And if youre looking for
bold, imaginative cuisine, youve got
to eat at Noma in Copenhagen. What
chef Ren Redzepi brings to the
table is incredible its always a great
experience, not least because Im
familiar with three of his current top
staf, as they used to work
for me at Mint.
EVERY DISH CAN BE A GOURMET
ADVENTURE ... I had a dessert
dressed on a table cloth at Alinea
in Chicago by chef Grant Achatz
himself. Hes so inventive I love the
way he looks at things.
I BECAME OBSESSED WITH
EXTREME SPORTS IN ST LUCIA ...
I was commissioned to cook in a hotel
there for a week this summer. And
while I was there, I tried everything
from scuba diving to paragliding as
well as my new favourite, zip-lining,
which is basically fying between
forest tree tops on wires.
I CANT WAIT TOGOTO... Japan.
Im obsessed with learning all I can
about Japanese cuisine.
I FEEL DESTINED TOVISIT ... South
America. At some stage Im planning
to take a couple of months of,
grab my ideal travel companion, my
younger brother Colin, and head for
Brazil and Argentina. From the food to
the music to the energy of the people,
Im imagining it will be a sensory
overload but in the best way.
P
H
O
T
O
G
R
A
P
H
B
y
F
R
A
N
V
E
A
L
E
3TopadvenTuresporTsdesTinaTions...
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22 | october/november 2012
Whats in my suitcase
Best known for dressing Lady Gaga, Irish designer Sorcha ORaghallaighs
show-stopping theatrical pieces have been showcased in Selfridges and
Brown Thomas and have also graced the pages of Vogue. She gives
Suzie Coen her defnitive travel must-haves.
pInK sIlK oRCHID
AnDCRYsTAl-
eMBellIsHeD
HeADpIeCe with
pInK HAnD-pAInTeDTop
ClInIQUe CITY
BloCK spF 40
20.50 at
Debenhams,
henry Street,
Dublin 1
elIZABeTHARDen
eIGHT HoUR
CReAM32 at all
good pharmacies
nationwide
FloweR sUnGlAsses by
erdem ystad, 445 exclusively
at cutlerandgross.com
AnTIQUe sIlVeR AnD
CRYsTAl CRoss RInG
wool-BlenDDRess
McQueen, 1,625 at net-a-porter.com
CRoCHeT
CARDIGAn by
oRAnGe BlossoMColoGne
from Jo Malone, 92 at brown
thomas, grafton Street, Dublin 2
MAsCARA yves
St Laurent faux
Cils, 31.51, at
arnotts, henry
Street, Dublin 1
lAnVInBRoGUes
Fax: + 353 1 6616006 Website: www.shelbournespa.ie
Email: rhi.dubbr.reservations@renaissancehotels.com
Te Spa at Te Shelbourne, 27 St. Stephens Green, Dublin 2, Ireland.
A new Spa Experience
awaits you at The Spa at The Shelbourne
Welcoming New Health Club
Members this Autumn
Relax, unwind and enjoy a new luxury spa and health club experience at Te Shelbourne. A range
of facilities will be available, including a luxurious spa with six treatment rooms, relaxation suite, manicure
and pedicure area, swimming pool, thermal facilities, dance studio and state of the art gymnasium.
For full details on our spa and health club membership,
please contact: +353 1 6634500
O
P
E
N
T
H
I
S
A
U
T
U
M
N
24 | october/november 2012
Country
Girl by Edna
OBrien (Faber
& Faber, 20)
out October 4.
Te one weve
all been waiting
for Edna
OBrien, in
her 82nd year,
fnally publishes her memoirs. With
most writers, especially ones as good
as OBrien, all the excitement of their
lives happens on the page, but Edna
escaped Co Clare via an elopement
and a Jane Eyre-type marriage,
had her frst novel banned in Ireland,
and took 1960s London by storm.
Is she going to dish the dirt on
taking LSD with RD Laing, on what
happened with Marlon Brando in
her kitchen, and on the politician in
her life? Probably not. Te Sphinx
will keep her secrets. Well all be
reading anyway.
Dear Life by
Alice Munro
(Chatto &
Windus,
18.99) out
November 1. A
new collection
from one of the
worlds greatest
writers
and winner of the 2009 Man
Booker International Prize,
often referred to as Canadas
Chekhov because of the
regionality, simplicity and
deceptive artlessness of
her stories. Once more,
she explores the lives
of various inhabitants
of the countryside and
towns around Lake Huron in
Ontario. Increasingly Munro,
now 81, is writing personal history,
or autobiography in fctional mode,
revealing her life in ellipses.
Worlds
Best Travel
Experiences
(National
Geographic,
25), out
October 30.
Lavish gift
book with the
usual dazzling
National Geographic photos,
plus locator maps, travel info,
insider tips and short essays
from acclaimed travel writers,
including Bill Bryson,
Jan Morris and Andrew
McCarthy, see page 120.
Tis is a whistle-stop tour
around the world, from
Tailands Chiang Mai to
Australias Uluru monolith to
Californias Channel Islands, also
taking in medieval cities, national
parks, ancient ruins, rain forests,
mountaintop villages
Shelf Life Shelf
Bridget Hourican picks the newmust-reads.
news books
Whos reading what?
Author Mike McCormack shares his reading list.
wHAT ARe YoU ReADinG?
I have just started
Luminarium by Alex Shakar.
This is a novel with an
irresistible premise one
day a man gets an email
from his comatose brother
and is propelled into a
journey between life and
death, the real and the
virtual I fnd it impossible
to pass by a novel with
that kind of a come-on.
wHeRe ARe YoU
ReADinG iT? In a garden
by the sea outside
Galway city. Im trying to
stop the magpies from muscling
in on the goldfnches and the
collared doves so far Im
fghting a losing battle.
fAVoURiTe PLACe To
VisiT? Out to Ballynahinch
on the Clifden road. Theres a
tiny little church out there, Our
Lady of the Wayside, which, if
you step inside, will bring you
right back to Irelands great
monastic past.
besT book To TAke on
HoLiDAYs? Take Fernando
Pessoas The Book of Disquiet
to Lisbon. A fragmented book
about fatigue, monotony,
boredom, lassitude, ennui and
renunciation it might not
sound like holiday reading but
it is mysteriously thrilling and
it will guide you through one of
the loveliest cities in Europe.
book YoU wisH YoUD
neVeR TAken on HoLiDAY?
I do not know how many times
I have packed Don Quixote and
each time it has returned home
with me unopened. But one
day, one day
Mike McCormacks latest book
of short stories, Forensic Songs,
published by Lilliput is out now.
Wh
Auth
wHA
I have
Lumina
This
irre
day
from
and
jo
dea
vir
to
tha
Checkout the trendfor big screenadaptations of well-knownclassics this season: DavidMitchells CloudAtlas goes
HollywoodwithTomHanks (October 26); Tolstoys AnnaKarenina(out November 9inUS) comes fromdirector
Joe Wright; andAng Lee takes onYannMantels Life of Pi (release November 21inUS, December 21inIreland).
MEMOIR tRavEl FIctIOn
INSIDER
Michael Barrys 50 Things
to Do in Dublin, an Insiders
Guide (DCBRS, 9.90) does what
it says on the cover. Not much on
restaurants, shopping, etc., but as a
guide to the citys attractions it
is neat, well-illustrated and
often surprising.
DUBLIN INSPIRES:
GREAT PERFORMANCES
Dublin has always inspired great events. George
Frideric Handel certainly found this to be true when
he introduced The Messiah while living here in 1742.
If hed arrived 270 years later, he would have
appreciated the imagination, energy and beauty that
also characterise The Convention Centre Dublin.
It combines accessibility (were less than 20
minutes from Dublin Airport and have over 18,500
hotel bedrooms within 10 km) with state-of-the-art
facilities in a stunning new building. And its also a
short walk from the vibrant heart of one of Europes
most exciting and enjoyable capital cities.
Si nce openi ng two years ago, we have
hosted over 550 events. And weve already earned
a lot of applause in the form of 15 industry awards,
most recently, coming runner up for Worlds Best
Convention Centre at the 2012 AIPCApex Awards.
If all this is music to your ears, call us today and
see how somewhere different will make a very
positive difference to your next event.
Contact our Sales Team on:
T: +353 1 856 0000 E: sales@theccd.ie W: www.theccd.ie
26 | october/november 2012
A
ugust brings passion and heat
to Santiago de Compostela,
the Galician city best known
as the destination for fervent
pilgrims who walk the famous
Camino de Santiago. However,
the city is not just heavenly for
blistered wayfarers; the less nimble-
footed devotee will also discover a
destination thats worth a trek. Here
are fve reasons to make that journey.
OntheRadar
Theres nothing like a trip to a Christmas market for getting into the festive mood.
Eoin Higgins picks the top fve across Europe.
2
Budapest
Temperatures drop towards the
lower end of the thermometer
during the festive season in Budapest,
but the best-known Christmas
market, located on Vrsmarty
Square, is certainly somewhere
to keep fngers and spirits toasty.
Expect plenty of warm comfort food,
lashings of hot glhwein, cinnamon
pastries and plenty of festive gewgaws
and knick-knacks to take home with
you. (November 18 to December 30)
3
Berlin
Te Charlottenburg Castle
market in Berlin has become
increasingly popular as a winter travel
destination since its early days in
2007. A fat stockingful of wonder
awaits those who shop beneath the
atmospheric lights of the castle and
make friends with perhaps some of
the friendliest stallholders in Europe.
Wonderful gift opportunities too.
(November 26 to December 31)
4
Vienna
Te Christkindlmarkt on the
square in front of Viennas
Town Hall is the citys most
impressive, attracting millions of
visitors to its festive wooden huts
selling food, drinks and unique, arty
gifts. On the periphery of the market
itself, another highlight is the trees
decorated with glowing lights shaped
like festive hearts and gingerbread
men. (November 17 to December 24)
5
Copenhagen
Set in the Tivoli Gardens
amusement park, Copenhagens
annual Christmas market is the
quintessential winter wonderland.
Hundreds of Christmas trees and
over half a million lights illuminate
the stalls and the surrounding park.
Tere is an ice-skating rink but, more
importantly, over 60 diferent vendors
selling locally produced arts, crafts,
decorations, glgg and addictive hot
apple dumplings. (November 9 to
December 28)
1
prague
Running daily in Old
Town Square and
Wenceslas Square, Pragues
Christmas markets have
a certain magic about
them when it comes to
making that Christmas
feeling tangible. A proper
romantic destination at
the best of times, Prague at
Christmas has that added
Old World Bohemian feel
other cities simply cant
match. (December 1 to
January 6)
AerLingus flies frOmDublintOprAgue,
budApest, berLin, viennAAnDcopenhAgenDAily.
news destinAtions
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IntervIew
28 | october/november 2012
IntervIew
brilliant
Sheen
F
or an actor who has worked
with some of cinemas best-
known directors, Martin Sheen
is low-key and modest. In fact,
considering this man has a star
on Hollywood Boulevards
Walk of Fame and has been the recipient of
Golden Globes, Screen Actors Guild and
Emmy awards, you could go so far as to say
that Sheen is the epitome of humility.
Tere are, then, no signs of airs and
graces when Cara meets up with him;
Sheen was in Ireland a few months ago
promoting Stella Days, a small movie with
a big heart that focuses on a parish priest
in 1950s rural Ireland, his love of cinema,
and how a changing society brings about
pivotal adjustments in the lives of various
people. As Fr Daniel Barry, Sheen brings his
customary sophistication to the role and,
as a staunch Roman Catholic, a degree of
gravitas. But there is an even more personal
reason for Sheen leaving, albeit temporarily,
Hollywood and its blockbusters Stella
Days is set in the locality in which Sheens
Irish mother was born.
My mother, Mary-Anne Phelan, was
from Borrisokane, explains Sheen, looking
dapper and bright-eyed in a room on the
frst foor of Dublins Merrion Hotel. She
had long left Ireland before the time that
the movie is set in and she died in 1951 in
America.
Te story of how Sheen became involved
with Stella Days unfolds. I was in Ireland
in 2003, May 22, in order to celebrate
what would have been her 100th birthday.
My mother had twelve pregnancies ten
survived, nine boys and one girl. Wed been
losing the older members of the family, and
in 2002 I lost the brother I had grown up
closest to. I wanted to gather the family
around for a celebration of life rather than
grief, and so my son Ramon and I organised
a family reunion in Borrisokane.
We had a wonderful three-day
celebration, and while I was there, a gent
by the name of Michael Doorley presented
me with a book, a memoir, of this priest
who was revered in the community. I guess
you could say he was an intellectual and
flm buf, and he was determined to bring a
cinema theatre into northern Tipperary.
Doorley had, apparently, no intention
of wanting to turn his book into a movie,
says Sheen. He just gave it to me, a nice
little book of local history, as a gift. I tucked
it away, I recall, but at the same time, the
producer of Stella Days bought the rights
to the book, and thought it would make a
wonderful flm. Even at the time, she had
asked me would I be interested in being in
it; then the screenplay came about, and then
the director [Taddeus OSullivan] came on
board. Over the years wed be in contact,
updating each other as to how the funding
for the movie was progressing. Finally, in
2010, it all came into place.
Working on the movie in the locale of
his mothers birthplace, says Sheen, meant
the world to me. Before starting work on
Stella Days, Id just fnished making Te
Way in Spain, with my son Emilio, and
it culminates in Galicia. Now, my father
was a Galician, and so between those two
movies I reconnected with my parents. Im
happy to say that neither movie came about
with any aforethought they just evolved
quite naturally. It was an extraordinary
revisitation, he says, of his parents heritage,
in both Spain and Ireland. I was just
delighted. Tey were both incredibly
satisfying to do.
Of course, Sheen is at a time in his
life he celebrated his 72nd birthday on
August 3 last where he can dictate his
workload, yet he gently bemoans the lack of
Shooting a flm in his mothers native
Tipperary meant the world to actor
Martin Sheen. He talks to Tony Clayton-
Lea about movies and his love of Ireland.
Photographs by Kevin Abosch.
october/november 2012 | 29
IntervIew
30 | october/november 2012
IntervIew
Sheen in his pivotal
role as Captain
Benjamin L.
Willard, in Francis
Ford Coppolas
Apocalypse Now.
substantial roles for men of his age in
what he terms big movies.
I have to be content with either
doing small parts in big pictures
such as my role in the latest Spider-
Man movie or big parts in small
pictures. I prefer to do the big parts,
to be honest, because I still love to
perform. Im still healthy, too, so
Im lucky enough. He admits to
being extremely fortunate to have
been able to enjoy a full career doing
something he clearly loves he has
been acting since the early 1960s. I
have absolutely no regrets, and Im
very fortunate to continue to work.
Its remarkable Ive been able to do it,
to continue to do it. I dont have any
prescription for it it just happened
that way. You can do it, I think, if
you just stay alert. Or if your life is
not separated from your career; if
youre able to unite all the aspects of
your life
Sheen says that for many years
he was fragmented I was an
actor over here and father over
there, a husband over there, and
a brother over here Everything
was compartmentalised, and I was
Badlands (1973) Director
Terrence Malick delivered a
stunning feature movie debut
that saw Sissy Spacek co-
starring alongside Sheen. As
the self-absorbed, desensitised
Kit Carruthers, Sheen, wrote
Time magazine flm critic Jay
Cocks, conveys Kits craziness
so efectively because he does
not ever act the madman; he is,
instead, a disturbed man trying to
act sane.
apocalypse now(1979)
During this acclaimed Vietnam
War movie by director Francis
Ford Coppola, 36-year-old Sheen
who plays the central character
of Captain Willard, who is on a
mission to kill fellow US Army
ofcer, Colonel Kurtz, played by
Marlon Brando sufered not only
a heart attack but also a nervous
breakdown. Recovering quickly,
however, Sheens for-real portrayal
nabbed him an American Movie
Award for Best Actor.
da (1988) In Ireland, at least,
this remains one of Sheens most
fondly remembered roles (as well
as one of the few movies that
Sheen himself recalls with pride) as
he plays a New York-based writer
returning to Ireland to bury his
father.
wall street (1987) Director
Oliver Stones movie about
predatory fnancial sharks features
Sheen co-starring with his son,
Charlie, as a conficted working-
class father and son. With a nice
comic touch, the real life father-
and-son pair revisited their Wall
Street performances in the parody
Hot Shots! Part Deux (1993).
the west wing(1999-2006)
Sheen has played various US
presidents (actual and fctitious)
throughout his career, but his
best-known President must
surely be Josiah Jed Bartlet in
this long-running television series
that garnered the actor a Golden
Globe award as well as six Emmy
nominations (for Best Actor in a
Dramatic Series).
Onscreen sheen
pulled and pushed this way and
that. All this stopped, he says, over
30 years ago, when he experienced
a religious conversion. Tis, he
reveals, culminated in his return
to Catholicism. Tat really was a
defning moment in my life, because
it brought me to the centre of my
life, and for me that meant I was no
longer fragmented. From that point,
I started to live a joyful, honest, free
life, where I became my authentic
self. All of us, no matter how we
try to deny it, are looking for an
authentic life.
It all started, efectively, for
Sheen in his late teens, in Dayton,
Ohio. At this point, he was known
by his birth name, Ramn Antonio
Gerardo Estvez, but on his arrival in
New York in 1959, he adopted a less
obviously ethnic name in order to
nab those all-important early acting
parts. Te frst ten years of his acting
career, he remembers, were in theatre
(from of-of-Broadway to Broadway
itself) and television (bit parts in
shows such as Te Defenders,
Route 66).
Tose shows would sustain you,
Book online at www.guinnessstorehouse.com
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IntervIew
32 | october/november 2012
IntervIew
explains Sheen, because television
paid better than theatre work. But as
we started to have a larger family, the
need to make more money increased,
and so I started going to California
to do some television shows the
likes of Mission: Impossible and
Hawaii Five-O. Finally, in 1969 I got
a movie job in Mexico, a long shoot
for the flm Catch-22, and the family
then moved to Los Angeles. Tats
when I started in movies more than
anything else. And then I got the role
in a movie called Badlands, which
opened up a lot of possibilities.
Badlands (1973) was the movie that
placed Sheen frmly on the map;
he went on to work with directors
like Martin Scorsese, Francis Ford
Coppola, Steven Spielberg and
Oliver Stone. Of course, there
are many movies (made by lesser-
known directors) that Sheen views
as less than workmanlike. He smiles
ruefully at the memories of work
done more out of fnancial necessity
than for any notions of art.
Id say the majority of the movies
Ive done are less than great. In fact,
Id say most of them were pretty
awful. Tey were in my life, though,
because I had a big family, and I had
to work to make a living. So I chose
to do some very silly movies and play
At peace,
nowadays Sheen
enjoys a less
fragmented life.
a lot of dumb parts, of which I felt
little pride about. But at least I was
able to continue to make a living as
an actor. And every now and then a
part would come along something
like Badlands is a once-in-a-lifetime
role; a movie like Apocalypse Now is
the same where you work with a
great director who happens to make
a great movie. Apocalypse Now, for
instance, was such an international
success that it opened the door to
a large range of possibilities. Tat
said, some of the lesser-profle movies
Ive done specifcally, one such as
Da, which we made in Ireland are
the ones Im most happy with.And
besides, recalls Sheen, youre not
going to get quality parts all of the
time. Something that fexed the
artistic muscles or lifted you up, or
inspired you theyre rare. I had
some good ones along the way, but
the really quality movies are rare,
very rare indeed.
Has he discovered, as he has got
older, that the parts have improved
because he specifcally wants to do
them? Well, theyve become less
frequent, but as long as theyre low
budget and you can accommodate
the factors of time, place and the fee,
then youre fne. Tere are, as yet, no
further Irish movie projects on the
way, but that isnt going to prevent
Sheen from visiting his spiritual
home on a regular basis.
My Irish heritage is very
important to me, he says. I frst
came to Ireland in 1973 to make
the flm Catholics, and Ive been
coming back on a regular basis. Im
an Irish citizen, as well, and I have
a close relationship with my family,
my cousins in Borrisokane, Roscrea,
Nenagh and Turles I cant go
anywhere where I dont run into
someone that is either related to or
knows the family, so I feel quite at
home here, honestly.
More often than not, he says, he
arrives in Ireland unannounced. He
rents a car, makes no appointments
and, he shrugs, wherever I land is
fne, and whomever I see is good.
Ireland is the most comfortable place
on Earth for me.
StellaDays is releasedonDVD, October 26.
Some of the leSSer-profile movieS
ive done Specifically, one SuchaS
Da, whichwe made inireland are
the oneS immoSt happy with.
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M.J. ONeill
Suffolk Street, Dublin 2
Tel. 01 679 3656
www.oneillsbar.com
Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm
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people
october/november 2012 | 35
E
very morning before sunrise a
small army of sleepy business
executives, clutching laptops and
briefcases, arrives at airports to
catch fights abroad on a mission
to sell Ireland Inc. In an age of
increasing globalisation, travelling salesmen
and women are taking to the air to sell
Irish products across Europe, Asia and the
US. Te early morning starts are gruelling
and time spent away from family is tough
but these road warriors are spurring an
export-led economic recovery that is helping
Ireland overcome a four-year fnancial crisis.
We expect exports to grow by about
three per cent this year and that is in the
face of a very difcult situation across
Europe, which is the destination for 60 per
cent of our exports, says the chief executive
of the Irish Exporters Association, John
Whelan. Food and drink, pharmaceuticals
and technology are key sectors. Tis year
Irish exports are expected to be worth 176
billion, which is more than the countrys
gross domestic product the market
value of all goods and services within the
economy. Tey are a key factor that has
helped Ireland diferentiate itself from other
peripheral countries in the Eurozone, such
as Spain, Portugal and Greece, and return
to international markets.
Marina Donohoe, head of education
at Enterprise Ireland, a state agency that
helps Irish companies sell overseas, says
establishing a presence in overseas markets
is vital for exporters to be successful.
Despite the development of video
conferencing and email technology,
personal meetings remain vitally important
to cement business relationships, clinch
deals and win new business overseas. Frank
Keane, head of international business, at
chartered accountants MKO Partners,
believes that meeting people face to face
is the only way to discover new business
opportunities. He spends a lot of his time
scouring the US, Asia and Europe for
multinational companies considering
setting up new operations in Ireland.
Many Irish exporters, particularly food
and drink companies, invest millions of
euro in advertising campaigns abroad
that also help to boost Irelands profle.
Te Irish whiskey brand is so intimately
connected to Irelands brand image that the
industrys marketing spend represents a big
promotion job for Irelands brand image as
well, says Stephen Teeling, senior global
marketing manager for Irish whiskey at US
spirits group Beam, owner of the Cooley
Distillery in Ireland and one of Irelands
self-styled business ambassadors.
Te ongoing difculties in the Eurozone
economy remain a real threat to the Irish
and global economy. But all the hard work
being done by Irish-based companies selling
their products and services overseas and the
commitment of their ambassadors on the
ground is paying of and putting Ireland on
the road to recovery.
Road
Warriors
Irish business executives are fying further afeld
than ever to sell Ireland Inc. Jamie Smyth talks to
key individuals who are spurring on an export-led
economic recovery. Photographs by Trevor Hart.
Bollywood blockbusters don t
often ofer opportunities to sell
Ireland Inc but head of education
at Enterprise Ireland, Marina
donohoe, managed to use this years
premiere of the Indian movie Ek tha
Tiger (once There Was a Tiger) to
promote the country as a location
for foreign students. The movie
was shot in Trinity College dublin
and provided a unique opportunity
for us to pitch Ireland to the Indian
student market, says donohoe, 43,
who organised a series of marketing
events around the movies premiere.
Life on the road is not easy,
particularly in the developing world
where fights times are long and
multiple meetings must be crammed
into just a few short days in a country.
But face-to-face contact is often
critical to clinching deals. If you are
not physically in a market then you
havent got a chance of winning the
business. You have to be on peoples
radar screens, says donohoe.
attracting foreign students to
Ireland is a lucrative business. Last
year 32,000 non-EU students came
to Ireland to study, providing an
estimated 500 million boost to the
local economy. Enterprise Ireland
has set a target of attracting 52,000
students by 2015.
We organise trade missions,
education fairs, workshops and online
campaigns to grow the Education in
Ireland brand. It is a fascinating job
because you get to travel to so many
diferent countries, says donohoe,
who spent a decade working for the
agency in the US before taking up
her current job. I travel abroad most
months and I love what I do. Ireland
has a really great ofering because it
is English speaking, has a high quality
education system with some world
leading institutions and a very warm
welcome for international students.
MarinaDonohoe
EnTERpRISE IRELand
Jamie Smyth is Ireland Correspondent with the
Financial Times newspaper.
36 | october/november 2012
people
charm about it.
than ever.
paddyCosgrave
ENTrEPrENEur
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Naas Rd, Dublin 22
Tel: 01 4592968
Modern and bright, Joels is one of Dublins livliest dining venues, with an
extensive menu catering for almost every taste.
AN POITIN
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Rathcoole, Co. Dublin
Tel: 01 4589244
Award winning thatched Restaurant & Bar with its own Stil and quirky
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GRAND CENTRAL
10/11 OConnell St, Dublin 1
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KEHOES
9 South Anne, Dublin 2
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THE STAGS HEAD
1 Dame Court, Dublin 1
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THE QUAYS
11-12 Temple Bar, Dublin 1
Tel: 01 6713922
THE BAGGOT INN
Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2
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THE QUAYS
Quay Street, Galway
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City Centre Heritage Pubs
Dublin & Galway
www.louisfitzgerald.com
A warm welcome awaits you from all the staff at the Louis Fitzgerald Group
Dating back to the 19th century, it was partly
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dramatic chandeliers. Superb food served daily.
Situated off Dublins premier shopping street,
Grafton Street. This is one of the finest, if not
the finest, Victorian pub in Dublin. Although it
is unchanged since 19th century, this is not a
museum, it is a buzzing vibrant pub with a
fantastic atmosphere and a special place in the
heart of Dubliners. This is a must see.
Established in the 1700s, it was last renovated
in 1895 and was the first pub in Dublin to
change from gas lighting to electricity. A
favourite haunt for those in the literary world
including Joyce and Kavanagh over the years.
Today it still has the authentic feel of a real
Dublin pub.
The Quays, Temple Bar situated in the heart of
Temple Bar is one of Dublins liveliest pubs with
a great mix of locals and tourists. Live Irish
Traditional Music everyday makes the pub a
magnet for those of us looking for a bit of craic
and with a restaurant on the first floor.
The Baggot Inn offer you the original and
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Located in the hub of Dublins business centre,
we serve a wide variety of hot and tasty food.
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The Quays, situated in the heart of Galway city
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Traditional Irish fare, the best of music and the
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HOTEL

38 | october/november 2012
people
FinolaoMahony
TOUrISMIrELanD
E XP E R I E NCE
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A MEETING OF MINDS
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Aisling Gallery, Hingham, Massachusetts, en route to Cape Cod, USA.
On view by appointment at Offcesuites, 20 Harcourt Street, Dublin 2, Ireland.
e-mail: info@ArtistoftheLight.com ArtistoftheLight.com (Ire) 087 689 7332 and (US) 347 549 0551
Roisins artworks are a great example of contemporary Irish art.
H.E. Michael Collins, Ambassador of Ireland to the U.S.
Mesmerizing, beautifully exquisite art.
Loretta Brennan Glucksman, Chairman of the American Ireland Fund
...Inspires us to connect with the light within, creating more peace and
joy in our lives.
Mark Burnett, TV Producer (Emmy Awards, The Voice),
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Inspiring! Deepak Chopra, NY Times best-selling author
...From her amazing piece of art, I feel inexplicable joy and well-being.
Christy OConnor Jnr., Ryder Cup Champion golfer
Uplifting during these challenging times. Wall Street Journal
...Brings beauty and nature together with simple elegance. Forbes
Clarity...Realize the oneness. Washington Post
Illuminating New York...a contemporary interpretation of light-infused
phenomena. Irish Arts Review
Lighting up living spaces. The Irish Times
40 | october/november 2012
people
CEO Brian Collins, 48, played
business executive selling Irish
international markets.
decent limbo dancer, he says.
as the European hub for US
BrianCollins
ADApTIVEMOBIlE
un un un un un un un un un un un un un un un un un un un un un un un un un un un unty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty ty
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42 | october/november 2012
people people
42 | october/november 2012
october/november 2012 | 43
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44 | october/november 2012
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44 | october/november 2012
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kitesurfing
46 | october/november 2012
The frst Aer Lingus Kite Surf Pro takes place in west Mayo this October. But
kitesurfng is just the start of the adventures along this wild Atlantic coast, as
Pl Conghaile discovers. Photographs by Peter Dybowski and David Sciora.
HigH Flying
october/november 2012 | 47
kitesurfing
48 | october/november 2012
A
chill Island
has some
sense of
theatre.
Its been
raining for
days, with
hulking
duvets
of cloud
bellying down over the Atlantic
Ocean. But the very morning I
arrange to meet four kitesurfers on
Keel beach, the clouds part like
stage curtains. A blue sky is revealed,
full of little fufy clouds and
blinding shards of sunshine. Were in
business.
You see the colours here? says
Franois Colussi of Pure Magic, a
lodge and activity centre set beneath
the broody Slievemore Mountain
nearby. Tats why I love this
place! Go to Dahab in Egypt, and
youll get perfect conditions, but the
landscape is plain. Here, you feel
like youre in National Geographic
magazine. You can literally have
dolphins jumping beside you.
Alongside Colussi, Kieran Sammon
and Eoin OConnell are breaking
out their kit, pumping infatable
edges on grass kept trim by the
islands sheep. Tey wax their
boards. Tey pull on their harnesses.
Tey launch their kites into the wind
and walk them towards the waves.
For a couple of hours, its as if theres
a fock of exotic birds cruising above
Keel Bay.
Kitesurfng does exactly what
it says on the tin. Its a whip-fast,
adrenaline-fuelled sport, in which
riders use kites of various specs
and sizes to harness the power of
the wind (in plentiful supply of
the Atlantic Coast, as well as other
locations such as Dublin Bay, Kerry
and Wexfords Hook Peninsula) to
propel themselves across the water
on kiteboards. Tere are various
disciplines, ranging from course
racing to wave-riding, but basically
it involves a body-contorting
combination of surfng, paragliding,
windsurfng and gymnastics.
Tis is half of one per cent
of what is possible, Colussi says,
brushing a wing of wet, salty hair
fromhis brow. His sky-blue Renault 4
van, decorated with go-faster strips
and a graphic of a surfng sheep, is
parked up on the stones. Its like
driving without petrol.
Todays wind is not the best, he
says. You could have fooled me
watching the guys go at it is like
macho poetry-in-motion. At times,
they seem to caress the waves, riding
them like skateboarders. At others,
they rocket along in straight lines
(kitesurfers have been clocked doing
over 50 knots). Teyll whip round,
slicing crescents of spray of the lips
of their waves, before leaping over
the rim, or shooting back down
to start all over again. And yes, at
times, they become croppers in the
great Atlantic washing machine.
We used to curse the wind, now
we welcome it, says Dea Birkett,
an author who lives locally. Shes
one of several passers-by drawn into
the spectacle, stepping onto Keels
smooth stones to watch the frenzy
of kites fitting back and forth.
Ten years ago wed never heard of
kitesurfng. Now we look out our
windows and see the huge kites and
think yippee! I think its fabulous
that the natural assets of Achill,
wind and waves and the worlds
most beautiful beaches, are going to
be used and seen around the world.
Has she tried it? (Pure Magic
Previous pages,
Franois Colussi
makes waves;
above, a rider
gallops along Keel
beach.
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kitesurfing
50 | october/november 2012
Pro riders make kitesurfng look
easy, but it can be a difcult
and dangerous sport to master.
Lessons with a qualifed instructor
are essential. Pure Magic
(puremagic.ie) ofers a full range of
lessons, from introductory sessions
to full courses of four three-hour
sessions with certifed instructors.
Theres no need to be super-ft,
though learners should be able
to swim. About 80 per cent of
those who complete the course, it
says, can then go on to purchase
equipment and practise safely on
their own.
ofers introductory lessons on
the fatter expanse of Keel Lake,
and there are Irish Kitesurfng
Association (IKSA) approved schools
in Mayo, Dublin, Sligo, Kerry and
Wexford. Te learning curve is
quick, Im told.) Nope. But maybe I
will when the champions arrive!
Te champions shes talking
about are the 36 kitesurfers heading
west for the Aer Lingus Kite Surf
Pro. Te event, which will be held
during a window period of
October 19 to 28 (see
kspworldtour.com), is
one of four stops
on the wave-
riding World
Tour, and the
frst international
professional
kitesurfng event to
be held in Ireland.
Its a milestone for
the sport (another is the
Above, Eoin
OConnell
launches his
kite; left,
kitesurfer Pearse
Williams gathers
momentum.
gettingonboard
Sea2Summit
Westports annual adventure
race (November 3) combines an
ascent of Croagh Patrick with a calf-
busting cycle and a short obstacle
course thrown in for good
measure. Entry costs 59pp;
westportsea2summit.ie
gettingonboard
kitesurfing
52 | october/november 2012
eAt At
Mulranny Park Hotel is the
driving force behind the
Gourmet Greenway, a trail of
local food producers along the
Great Western Greenway cycling
trail, many of whom youll fnd on
the menus in its Nephin
Restaurant. Ollie ORegan is the
head chef, there are wonderful
Atlantic views, and Clew Bay
scallops should be your frst
order into the kitchen. (098 36
000; mulrannyparkhotel.ie)
Overlooking Westports
elegant Octagon (the town was
built and laid out as an estate
town for nearby Westport
House), the Pantry & Corkscrew
is one of the best casual dining
options in a town and county that
know a thing or two about casual
dining. Pop in for lunch, dinner or
just cofee and a slice of cake.
(098 26 977; facebook.com)
After a days driving along the
Connemara or west Mayo coast,
its hard to resist Cronins
sheebeen, below, in Rosbeg,
Westport a thatched pub
nestled against the inner shores
of Clew Bay. Crammed with
pictures of Croagh Patrick, maps
of the coastline and mementoes
of great Irish rugby wins, the
gregarious gastro-pub serves up
a reliable mix of daily specials,
with a particular focus on
seafood. (098 26 528;
croninssheebeen.com)
recent decision to include course-
racing in the Rio 2016 Olympics).
Kitesurfng has come far,
fast. Although pioneers were
experimenting through the 1990s,
commercial kites didnt hit the
market until just over a decade
ago. Te October event puts west
Mayo and, by extension Ireland,
right up there alongside world-
class kitesurfng destinations such
as Maui in the US, Mauritius and
Cascais in Portugal, the three other
stops on the tour.
Its a diferent sport today, says
OConnell, fresh from the waves at
Keel. Along with Sammon, hes a
director at the championships. At
the beginning, it was like two lines
attached to a plastic bag, and you
Back at Pure
Magic, Franois
Colussi chills out.
did what you did to survive. It just
tracked in the wind; there was no
safety, no real launch ability on the
water. If you crashed the kite you
could have swum for three hours, in
the jellyfsh and the seaweed. Today,
a weekend will get you to where it
took us six months to get. It has
evolved.
Back at Pure Magic, where I
met the boys tucking into a hearty
breakfast of sausages, beans and
fresh brioches, a little boy came over
to show Colussi his brand new kite.
It was his birthday present. And he
was beaming. Tats the start of the
trouble for your parents, Colussi
laughed.
Not that you have to attach
yourself to a kite to enjoy Achill, of
Cronins Sheebeen
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kitesurfing
54 | october/november 2012
Clockwise from
left, a friendly
local; overlooking
atmospheric
Keem Bay; Eoin
OConnell takes in
the scenery.
october/november 2012 | 55
1
BallycroyNatioNal Park
The quiet kid of Irelands national
parks, Ballycroys location on the
western seaboard in northwest Mayo
is a study in raw remoteness. Its 11,000
hectares encompass one of the last intact
active blanket bog systems in Western
Europe, the Nephin Beg Mountains and
the Scardaun Loughs, with a seasonal
visitor centre in Ballycroy village.
(ballycroynationalpark.ie)
2
the Great WesterN
GreeNWay
Opened last year by Irelands
Taoiseach, cyclist-in-chief and Mayo man
Enda Kenny, its no exaggeration to say
this 42km route has revitalised tourism in
the region. Following the old Westport-
Achill railway line, the Greenway whisks
cyclists away from trafc, past some
glorious Atlantic scenery, and is peppered
with bridges, signage and sculptures
that still feel fresh out of the box. The
13km stretch from Mulranny to Achill is
unmissable. (greenway.ie)
3
keemBay, achill islaNd
Achill Island has inspired its fair
share of artists over the years,
and one look at this dazzling Blue Flag
Beach will give you an indication as to
why. Paul Henry, the painter, was so taken
by the island that he tore up his return
train ticket and fung it into the sea. One
of his most famous paintings, Launching
the Currach (1910) is set in Keem Bay.
(achilltourism.com)
4
WestPort house
Built on the dungeons of a castle
once owned by pirate queen
Grace OMalley, Westport House has
evolved over the centuries into a cracking
theme park. A camp site, adventure park,
extensive gardens, zorbing, archery,
kayaking and paddle-boarding are just
some of the activities on ofer alongside
tours of the house itself, making for one
of the best family days out in the West.
Upcoming events include a Halloween
Fest (October 27 to November 4).
(westporthouse.ie)
5
museumof couNtrylife,
castleBar
The National Museums folk
life collection documents a 100-year
period stretching from the Famine to the
1950s. Exhibitions cover the trades of
the blacksmith, tinker and schoolmaster,
as well as customs like Lent, wakes
and harvest, amongst other fashions,
traditions and communities. (museum.ie)
course. More than any other rocky
outcrop, this Irish-speaking oasis
can claim to be Irelands Adventure
Island, with fve Blue Flag beaches,
rambling mountains, sheep-strewn
country roads, deserted villages
and wild coastal paths all opening
themselves up to the visiting walker,
cyclist, surfer or driver. Winter lacks
the warmth and crowds of July and
August, but its also when Achills
wild remoteness comes into its own,
and for serious hikers and surfers,
thats often more of a reward.
Achill has three looped cycling
trails, including a 44km route from
Keel to join the islands famed
Atlantic Drive. By car, bike or
foot, this circuit is a short but
spectacular symphony of coastline,
churning waters and Irish heritage.
Watch out for a deserted village,
for a castle once owned by Grace
OMalley (Irelands pirate queen),
and for an eerie graveyard bearing
two mass graves associated with
the abandoned Achill to Westport
railway line. Long before the railway
opened in 1894, a prophecy was
made that carts on iron wheels
would carry cofns to Achill on
their frst and last journeys. And
so it came to pass. When the line
opened in 1894, its frst carriages
five mayomust-sees
bore the bodies of 32 local labourers
drowned after capsizing in Clew
Bay. In 1937, the last train to use the
narrow-gauge line brought ten young
islanders who died in a fre in Scotland
back to their fnal resting place.
Tankfully, the latest chapter
in the railways history is a happier
one. Last year saw the opening of
the Great Western Greenway, a
42km cycling trail following the
railways route from Achill Sound
to Westport. Its a fairly fat cycle
(though if ftness is an issue, Id
advise taking it section by section,
rather than all in one burst),
whisking the cyclist past some
stunning views of the Curraun
peninsula, Clew Bay and the
Newport viaduct. My favourite rest
stop is the stone-arched bridge over
the Black Oak River ... bliss.
Clew Bay is west Mayos
other adventure playground.
Mushrooming surf schools
have made breaks like those at
Carrowniskey accessible to all
levels of surfers here, and youll
fnd hundreds of sailboats fitting
between the drumlins on a windy
day. Kayaking, paddle-boarding and
even sea safaris are other options.
(Did you know John Lennon once
bought Dorinish Island for 1,700?
Above, fsherman
Simon Sweeney
at Belmullet clifs,
near Pigeon Rock;
right, cycling along
the Great Western
Greenway.
kitesurfing
56 | october/november 2012
sleep at
If youre looking for a spot of
pampering after being blown
about the Atlantic, look no further
than knockranny House Hotel, a
sumptuous manor house hotel. Set
on a hill overlooking Westport,
Croagh Patrick and Clew Bay,
rooms are luxurious without being
OTT, theres an award-winning
chef at work in La Fougre
restaurant, and Spa Salveo
combines a lengthy treatment list
with a mosaic-tiled vitality pool
and a suite of steam rooms,
monsoon showers and a herbal
sauna. (098 28 600; khh.ie)
The Irish-speaking Mullet
Peninsula is amongst the least-
visited corners of Ireland, which is
a shame for local tourism, but an
absolute blessing for intrepid
travellers. From walks on erris
Head to kitesurfng in elly Bay,
from the 6,000-year-old Cide
fields to golf links at Carne, its a
true hidden gem. The Broadhaven
Bay Hotel ofers a three-star base
in Belmullet, with a pool, bar,
restaurant and competitive special
ofers. (097 20 600;
broadhavenbay.com)
Sitting under Slievemore
Mountain at the heart of Achill
Island, pure Magic ofers budget
accommodation in rooms themed
to evoke the great kitesurfng
regions of the world. Think
Morocco, Brazil and Hawaii with
a pool room, restaurant, live
music, crackling fres and freshly
baked brioches thrown in to boot.
Theres a stunning view over keel
lake (where kitesurfng lessons
take place) too. From 35 per
night including breakfast. (085 243
9782; puremagic.ie/achill)
TheWesTonTheWeb... Mayo: Adventure Kingdom/Adventure Islands:
theadventureislands.com; Adventure West: adventurewest.ie; Clewbay bike hire:
clewbayoutdoors.ie; Toms Mac Lochlinn: siul@eircom.net; Coliste UIsCe: uisce.ie
I didnt, until I took a trip around the
bay with Adventure Islands. My nose
almost looked like Lennons, too,
after a chiselling by the wind.)
Or perhaps youre an angler and
would prefer a gentler interaction
with the waters and the wild of west
Mayo? If so, theres no better starting
point than Ballina, the so-called
Salmon Capital of Ireland. Bisected
by the River Moy, Ballina hosts an
annual salmon festival every July
(ballinasalmonfestival.ie). Te Moy
itself is Irelands most prolifc game
fshery so book those fy-fshing
beats well in advance.
Finally, there is Croagh Patrick.
Rising like a volcano over the town
of Westport, this was where St
Patrick reputedly fasted for 40 days.
It remains the scene of an annual
pilgrimage on the last Sunday in July
(Reek Sunday), when more ardent
devotees climb the mountain in
bare feet. Loose scree leading up to
the 762m summit
doesnt make this
easy, of course
wear sturdy
boots if youre
hoping to engage
in any other
activities once
you descend.
In fact, wear
sturdy boots if
youre hoping to
descend, full-
stop.
Croagh Patrick
is regularly ensconced in cloud
but when the views are clear from
its summit, theyre breathtaking.
If you make it there this month,
look over Clew Bay towards Achill
Island. Legend has it that St Patrick
took time out from his fast on the
mountain to do the same thing,
blessing Keem Bay. I wonder what
hed have made of the kitesurfers?
Top, Mayo boasts
a long history of
marine pursuits;
above, a statue
of St Patrick
looks out from
Downpatrick
Head.
Pure Magic
a s
Si
Mo
Isla
acco
to
regi
Mo
a p
mu
d i l d
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skiingin the juras
58 | october/november 2012
october/november 2012 | 59
Escape the Alpine hordes by heading for the slopes of the
Jura mountains on the French-Swiss border. Nicola Iseard
discovers a scenic haven for skiing and snowshoeing.
Off
Sloping
skiingin the juras
60 | october/november 2012
Faucille and Menthires). From
Monthoisey, we head down Le
Rhodos (piste I), a long, winding
red bordered by a snowpark
halfway down. Tempted as I
am to hit one of the kickers or
jumps with a 360, I fgure I
should probably wait until I am
properly warmed up (and
have actually learnt to do a
360 beginners, thats a
mid-air complete turn,
by the way).
As we follow the
run down through
the trees, it dawns
on me that although
it hasnt snowed in
over a week, the slopes
are in pristine condition.
L
ess than fve
hours ago we were
stepping onto a
plane in Dublin,
now we are stepping
of a mountain cable
car in France. Below
us a sea of thick
pine forest tumbles
into the valley and
above us white-topped peaks puf
out their chests; a lone pair of skiers
is the only sign of life. Serene doesnt
cover it. But then, thats the Jura
mountains all over a world apart
from the fast-paced city of Geneva
just 15 minutes away.
Tis is a peaceful region on the
French-Swiss border, encompassing
vast stretches of wilderness (Jura
means forest), which make it
a haven for walkers, mountain
bikers and skiers. Despite having
three ski areas Llex-Crozet,
where we are, Mijoux-La Faucille
and Menthires with 50km
of lift-served runs and 140km of
cross-country trails, the Monts Jura
resort is relatively undiscovered by
the hordes of skiers who descend
upon the Alps every year. For my
husband, Christian, and I looking
for a long weekends ski jaunt, it is
ideal. It may not have the altitude
of some of the big boy resorts (it
reaches 1,680m, half the height of
Les Arcs), but what the Jura lacks
in height it more than makes up for
with views; as we board the chairlift
up to Monthoisey, the summit of
the Llex-Crozet ski area, the views
across the valley to Lake Geneva,
and beyond to the mighty Mont
Blanc, are breathtaking. On a clear
day, and viewed from the right place,
you can even see the Matterhorn.
But it is time to put the camera
away; we have some skiing to do.
Llex-Crozet is the largest of
the ski areas, with 15 lifts and
26 pistes of every colour.
Tough, with the majority
being cruisy reds and blues,
its best suited to beginner
and intermediate skiers,
rather than riders looking
for adrenaline-triggering
blacks and challenging
of-piste (as are Mijoux-La
Previous pages,
the serenity of the
Jura Mountains.
This page, above,
breathtaking
views. Right,
Nicola sets out.
ing
or
get
planning
The Mont Jura tourism
website has info on all the local
ski resorts, including piste maps and
weather forecasts. It also has listings
of accommodation, restaurants,
shops, and plenty of great
aprs-ski activities.
monts-jura.com.
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skiing in the juras
62 | october/november 2012
Even sections of the of-piste are
skiable; every now and then we duck
past the piste poles for a few turns
amongst the pines. Te Jura has a
unique microclimate youll fnd
snow here at just 915m, unlike slopes
at the same altitude in most areas of
the Alps. And if at any point during
the winter the snow-clouds just
dont play ball, Monts Jura has 33
hectares of artifcial snow so youre
guaranteed skiing.
Terell be no need for the snow
cannons just yet though; after a
few more runs, it starts snowing
Ski bliss, above the
Jura has a unique
microclimate with
snow at just 915m.
lightly, but enough that I have to
stop mid-run to put on my goggles.
Time for lunch. We opt for the
rustic La Catheline restaurant,
which serves a stellar onion soup for
under 8 and has a terrace that is
buzzing with couples and families,
despite the weather. Tummies full,
we get back on our skis and follow
Les Lys (piste M), a green trail that
twists and turns through the forest,
before giving way to a steep black
that fres you out at the Lelex base
station. Legs suitably burning, we
decide to call it a day, and hop in our
eat at
If youre skiing at Llex-Crozet,
there are several good mountain
restaurants to choose from. For
views head to the Panoramic
restaurant (think big glass
windows overlooking the valley),
which is perched at the top of the
Crozet gondola and serves hearty
Jurassian cuisine as well as snacks
such as hamburgers and chips.
For something more rustic try
La Catheline the onion soup is
a winner. Its also the place to
stop mid-morning or afternoon
for a vin chaud.
No chalet girl on hand to
provide afternoon tea? Get your
cake-fx from La Baguette
Magique in Crozet. It is the only
shop in the village and serves
yummy, calorifc cakes and
pastries just the ticket after a
hard days ski.
For supper, shamwari
restaurant at Jiva Hill Park Hotel
has a range of set menus as well
as an la carte menu, serving up
exquisite French dishes such as
polenta with Beaufort cheese,
and beef sirloin picatta
supervised by chef Sullivan
Breton.
The Bois joly hotel (+33 450
410 196; boisjoly.com) has its own
cosy restaurant serving
everything from meat fondue to
omelette au jambon, alongside
fxed menus.
La Mainaz (+33 450 413 110;
la-mainaz.com) also has its own
wood-panelled restaurant,
headed by chef Franois Part,
where you can refuel on dishes
such as Jurassian trout and
mushroom cassolette.
For traditional Alpine fare away
from the hotels, head
for Le refuge de
Florimont (+33 450 418
859; restaurant-pays-
de-gex.net), situated on
the mountain pass road
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skiingin the juras
64 | october/november 2012
5 Best runs
1
Les Lys (piste M) A long,
meandering green trail that
winds through the forest
from the top of the Llex-Crozet
cable car to the bottom, giving
way to a steep black that will be
sure to get the legs working.
2
Les aneMones
(piste n) Beginning at
the Monthoisey look-out
point (bring your camera), this
run starts as a gentle green piste
and turns into a long, cruisy red
that cuts around the back of the
mountain and is often deserted
perfect for an early-morning run.
3
Les pins (piste a)
A short, unpisted black
run that depending on
the time of year can have fun
moguls to play on.
4
Les rhodos (piste i)
This red run starts at the
Monthoisey summit, and
turns into the red Les Eillets piste
home to the snowpark. Just the
place to work on your spins (or
spills).
5
Les gentianes
(piste k) If the snowpark
has given you a taste for
adrenaline, head to this easy blue
which starts at the Monthoisey
summit. It takes you past the
boardercross course, which
features turns, jumps and drops,
and is a lot of fun.
rental car to the hotel, a ten-minute
drive away.
We are staying at the Jiva Hill
Park Hotel, on a private 70-acre
estate near Crozet, with 28 rooms
and six private lodges. With deep
pile carpets, subtle downlighting
and funky furnishings, the hotel
epitomises aprs-ski luxury. Okay,
so it isnt the cheapest of hotels, but
we fgure that with all the money
we are saving on our Jura ski pass
(which is around half the price of
many mainstream French resorts), it
is worth pushing the boat out for a
Above, luxury and
one heck of a spa,
at the Jiva Hill
Park Hotel.
GETEQUIPPEDAT... LoopingSports at the Crozet telecabine (+33450410254;
loopingsports.com) or the local Intersport outlet (+33450209196; intersport-lelex.fr)
from16a day. AMont Jura ski pass costs 23per adult, 18per child.
few nights. Plus, it has one of heck of
a spa, and thats priceless after a day
on the slopes.
Im not sure if it is the pool,
sauna, hammam or my full-body
aromatherapy massage, but by
dinner my achy post-ski limbs feel as
good as new. Jiva Hills restaurant,
Shamwari, is one of the fnest in
the Jura. Tempted as we are by
the fve-course set menu, we settle
for the scallops with walnut wine
followed by the orange and Grand
Marnier souf from the la carte
menu. Both are divine but, with the
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skiing in the juras
66 | october/november 2012
Clockwise from bottom left, the
perfect ski resort has as much
to ofer of the slopes as on
wildlife, views, aprs ski and
plenty of character. Opposite,
right, postcard pretty chalet in
the mountains.
october/november 2012 | 67
1
FOR FAMILIES ...
Val dIsre in France ticks all the
family-friendly boxes: a charming town,
which is easily explored on foot; 300km of
pistes that cater for all levels and are easily
accessed from your hotel/apartment, great
aprs-ski, including a cinema, ice-skating
rink and new sports centre.
Book it Crystal Ski (01 433 1010;
crystalski.ie) ofers seven nights self-
catering in a two-bed apartment at the
Jardins & Les Verdets Apartments from
887 per adult, 336 per child (second
child free), including fights from Dublin
to Geneva and transfers, from
January 12 2013.
2
FOR GROUPS ...
Groups looking for a good-
value, lively ski holiday
couldnt do any better than Arinsal in
Andorra. With its link to neighbouring
Pal, the ski area boasts 65km of
snow-reliable pistes. In town, Arinsal
has dozens of bars, most of which
double as eateries, ideal for self-
catering groups. There are also
lots of aprs-ski activities to keep
groups amused.
Book it Direct Ski (1890 201
205; directski.com) ofers seven
nights self-catering at the Daina
Apartments (sleeping up to six)
from 443pp, including fights from
Dublin to Toulouse and transfers.
3
FOR OFF-PISTE HOUNDS ...
If youre looking for powder
stashes and endless of-piste
terrain to play on, Davos in Switzerland
is your resort. The options are huge,
from short routes of the back of the
Jakobshorn and Rinerhorn to all-day ski
circuits to Arosa and Lenzerheide.
Book it ActivityBreaks.com (048 9094
1671; activitybreaks.com) ofers four nights
B&B at Hotel Schatzalp from 450pp,
including a free ski pass. Aer Lingus fies
from Dublin to Zurich daily.
4
FOR TRADITION ...
The picturesque Tyrolean
village of Soll is one of the most
atmospheric in Austria, set around a
splendid onion-domed church, with a
friendly village atmosphere. Its slopes
also boast Austrias biggest snowmaking
installation so you can expect great on-
piste conditions whatever the weather.
Book it Topfight (01 240 1700; topfight.
ie) ofers seven nights on a half board basis
at the three star Hotel Modlinger from
789pp, including fights from Dublin.
4 OTHER PLACES TOSKI THIS WINTER
mains averaging around 25, we
agree that for our remaining nights
we will sample the charming, more
afordable restaurants in nearby Gex.
Te beauty of staying at Jiva Hill
is that if you fancy a day of the
slopes you are spoilt for choice; the
hotel has a nine-hole golf course, two
tennis courts, even a man-made lake
for water skiing and wakeboarding
(in summer). Of-site, you can go
dog sledding nearby or for a real
adrenaline-kick ride a luge. I loved
sledding as a kid, but a proper racing-
style sled, down a proper man-made
chute? Tat is something else.
Te luge track is located at the
Col de la Faucille mountain pass, a
short drive from Jiva Hill. We climb
into the sledge, Christian in the
drivers seat (it has levers to control
the speed). It slowly chugs up to the
top of the track and I feel my hands
coul
Andorr
Pal,
snow
has
double
ca
lots
gr
Bo
20
ni
Ap
fr
Du
start to sweat. Turns out it goes
rather high. Tree, two, one and we
are of, speeding full pelt 1,365m
to the bottom, twists and turns and
screams all the way. And I thought
skiing steeps got the pulse racing.
Best of all, we are the only ones
there, so we go back up again, and a
third time. I cant remember the last
time I laughed so much.
Tat night, we catch a taxi to Gex
and up, via the historic mountain
pass road towards Paris and Dijon,
to Le Refuge de Florimont. Its a
laid-back, traditionally decorated
restaurant that is popular with
European royalty (evident from
the photographs that line the wall)
who come here to pay homage to
its proprietor, a famous mountain
guide, and to dine on traditional
mountain classics such as tartifette,
raclette and fondue. We opt for the
SNOWSHOEING... Ahalf-day guidedsnowshoeingexperience costs
from13.90per person(+33674677994; monts-jura-rando.fr).
Val dIsre
skiing in the juras
68 | october/november 2012
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l
u
s
t
r
a
t
i
o
n
b
y
g
r
a
h
a
m
c
o
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c
o
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a
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/
g
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aer Lingus fies Dublin to geneva daily,
and from Dublin to Lyon daily, except Sat.
sun-dappled forests and wide open
pastures shedding hats, scarves
and layers as we go until we
reach the summit of Mont Rond at
1,534m. Te view catches my breath:
a sweeping 360 panorama of peaks,
jutting up through a sea of
cloud. Below us a fox
darts of into the
distance, above a
paraglider swoops
through the air.
As we start
our descent, I
realise how much
I have cooled
of and I am
about to whip out
an extra layer when
Francis points to a small
wooden building about 45m
away. A sauna? I wonder hopefully.
Not quite. It is a shepherds chalet,
which Francis has keys to. He
lights candles and we sit around an
old wooden table warming up on
shepherds moonshine, an eye-
wateringly strong spirit made from
the roots of an alpine herb.
As we leave the chalet and
continue our descent I feel rather
overwhelmed, by the beauty of
the landscape and the remoteness
of it all. It could have been the
moonshine. Or perhaps it was just
the Jura.
latter, along with a bottle of local
Savoie wine, both of which are
delicious.
On our fnal afternoon, there is
only one thing left to do: set of into
the wilds to experience the dramatic
landscapes for which the
Jura is renowned. We
consider getting
kitted up in some
Nordic gear for
a cross-country
jaunt on a
section of the
400km Grande
Traverse du
Jura (Great Jura
Trail), which cuts
its way across the Jura
over ice-covered summits
and through crystal forests and
sleepy villages. But instead we put
on some snowshoes for a three-hour
romp through the forests of Mijoux-
La Faucille, following a section of
the Balcon du Lman walking path
which loops around Lake Geneva.
Our guide, Francis Andr, leads the
way. It is our frst time snowshoeing
and we soon fnd our rhythm. Every
now and then Francis, who doesnt
speak a word of English (but luckily
his co-guide does), points out deer
tracks or the age of a pine tree, some
of which are over 250 years old. We
gently gain altitude, passing through
big
thrill
Head to the multimedia
dome at the Col de La Faucille
where the robot Coaster takes
passengers on a virtual skiing,
paragliding, mountain-biking and
kayaking trip complete with
wind and music efects.
5 per person.
The plush jiva hill Park hotel
(+33 450 284 848; jivahill.com) if
youre looking to splash out. A
chic chalet, its design has more in
common with an African game
lodge. Choose from one of the
deluxe bedrooms or the six
private lodges (sleeping up to
four), which boast private
Jacuzzis. Doubles from 213 per
night, B&B.
Tight budget? Try Bois joly
(+33 450 410 196; boisjoly.com), a
cosy hotel located in the centre
of Gex. The accommodation is
simple but comfortable and is
just a two-minute walk from the
Llex-Crozet cable car. Doubles
from 58, room only.
Or, for somewhere in between,
check out La Mainaz (+33 450
413 110; la-mainaz.com), a
charming chalet-style hotel,
which is also in Gex and has 21
airy rooms with mountain views,
as well as a sauna, steam room
and cosy lounge. Doubles from
91, half-board.
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You can spend funflled hours
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Allow yourself to be taken
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Experience as you are guided
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be blown away by the views from
the refurbished Moylurg Viewing
Tower and experience Irelands
only Tree Canopy Walk as it
gently rises above the forest foor.
This is a selfguided tour which
allows you get lost in time and a
tour that can be enjoyed at your
own pace. Guided Tours are also
available at any time of the year
for groups of at least 15 people.
The Lough Key Experience is
fully wheelchair accessible and
buggy/pram accessible.
The Beautiful Moylurg Room,
boasting stunning views of Lough
Key, is an ideal room for a private
event, meeting or corporate
launches. Revive & Re-energise
in The Lakeside Caf, where
you can enjoy the gourmet Fair-
trade Coffee & Tea with some
homemade muffns, cookies and
savoury snacks overlooking the
beautiful vista of Castle Island &
Lough Key.
days experiencing the delights
that North Roscommon and the
surrounding area have to offer?
Why not book a pitch for your
tent or caravan in the Lough Key
Caravan and Camping Park,
open from Easter to September.
It has 52 landscaped, secluded
pitches, Tent space, shower block
and recreational area or moor
your boat on the new 50 berth
marina with all the facilities to
go with it.
Other activities within the park
are Zipit Forest Adventures &
Lough Key Boat Tours.
nice
70 | october/november 2012
Nice
the beautiful
It may be Frances ffth largest city but Nice feels like
a relaxing resort when youre meandering through its
historic streets. On a long stay, award-winning author
and history buf Emma Donoghue fell in love with its
sunny charm. Photographs by MatthewThompson.
nice
72 | october/november 2012
I
dont know what I did to deserve
it, in this life or the last, but
Ive recently spent ten months
in Nice with my family as part
of a university exchange. In
most cities, the bus from the
airport is an embarrassment, as
it chugs through the grottiest
back-quarters. Not so Nice, where
our visitors start letting out little
squeals of delight the minute we turn
onto the Promenade des Anglais
(English Walk) with its giant palms,
orange and lemon trees, and the
glittering Baie des Anges (Bay of
Angels) opening out before them like
a ballerina spreading her arms. As for
me, I always watch out for the spot
where Isadora Duncans red Chinese
shawl got wound around the wheel of
the Amilcar Grand Sport in which a
young mechanic was taking her for
a test-drive, that warm September
evening in 1927 ...
But Nice has a longer pedigree
than that. Te school our kids go to
(free and excellent, as youd expect
of French education) is just around
the corner from an archaeological
site called Terra Amata, where a
band of elephant hunters Homo
erectus, upright hominids and
possibly our ancestors made very
Previous pages, sea view
at Neptune Plage in front
of the famed Hotel Le
Negresco and, this page,
right, divers at Castel Plage
soak up the sun. Below,
writer Emma Donoghue at
1 minute walk from Grafton Street
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Top, Port de Nice
where the vast
yachts of the mega-
rich moor, above,
local lad Guiseppe
Garibaldi atop
his plinth in Place
Garibaldi.
nice
74 | october/november 2012
early use of fre about 300,000 years
ago and may have indulged in a little
cannibalism, but only for ritual
purposes. For someone like me
who needs history like meat
needs salt, this is all heaven.
At noon every day,
when a loud cannon
startles me, I remember
Scottish visitor Sir
Tomas Coventry-
More, who is said to have
instituted this daily boom
in 1861 as a reminder to his
wife to get his lunch on.
It was the Greeks of Marseilles
who founded the city, three and a
half centuries before Christ, and
named it for Nike, the winged
goddess of victory who heaps
rewards on winners. And Nice is
full of winners, such as the well-
heeled Anglos with their villas on
the exclusive lush promontory of
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, just east of
town. (Te famous Promenade
des Anglais is named for the
English, not because they lifted a
hand to build it but because they
commissioned the starving locals
Top, Port de Nice
city
strolling
Nice is a particularly nice city
in which to perambulate. Smart
phone addicts can download any
of a number of city walking apps for
guidance, whereas those of the
old school may fnd it more
interesting to just stroll
and discover.
Explore the magical miniature world of Taras Palace Museum of Child-
hood at Powerscourt House. Each room inTaras Palace is furnished
with miniature masterpieces, hand painted ceilings and hand crafted
wooden and marble floors. Perfect for all ages from 5 to 105.
THE MUSEUM IS HOMETO IRELANDS
LARGEST PERIOD DOLLS HOUSE
Powerscourt House, Enniskerry, Co.Wicklow, Ireland
CALL: +353 (0)1 2748090 EMAIL: info@taraspalace.ie
www.taraspalace.ie
www.ilovedalkey.com
Dalkey, on the coast just 12.5kmsouth of Dublin, easy to get to by road,
Aircoach or DART. For more information go to www.ilovedalkey.com
Dalkey
Wedloveyoutovisit
Visit Historic Dalkey for its early
ChristianChurches, its medieval
mini castles, its Heritage Centre, its
literature, its culture and more.
Visit Fun Dalkey for its lively
village atmosphere, many shops,
cafs, restaurants and bars, for
its great food and much more.
Visit Scenic Dalkey for its
beautiful island, its two harbours,
its stunning coastal and hillside
walks and much, much more.
nice
76 | october/november 2012
to do it as a make-work project
when the orange harvest failed in
1822.) Other winners include those
Russian mafa millionaires who are
widely rumoured to own most of the
massive modern yachts permanently
moored in the harbour. But even the
leathery near-nudists who lie basking
on the seaside rocks on the 300
sunny days per year or the students
out dancing in bars that only open at
4am all know that life doesnt get
much better than this.
Although the name lends itself to
bland puns a shop called So Nice,
a gym called Fit Nice, a night club
called Nice Cube, and the slogan
Nice is Nice and Yes You Cannes,
which Id imagine took the tourist
board many long lunches to come up
with theres nothing bland about
this city. Whether you visit for its
NicecUiSiNe... Nices foodis characterisedby its French(Provenal) anditalian
(Ligurian) infuences. Local specialities whichshouldnt be missedare courgette
fower fritters, pissaladire andof course the famous salade Nioise.
Clockwise from
above, left, the
town buzzes with
late-night spots
like those at Rue
Barillerie; style
city 82-year-old
Guy Leymarie on
the Promenade;
the beautiful curve
of the Bais des
Anges.
GettinGout of town
Id recommend the quick bus ride
to the lovely village of Villefranche-
sur-Mer, which has the 16th-century
Chapelle Saint-Pierre, beautifully
decorated with fshing motifs by
Jean Cocteau in 1957 just a stroll
from a gentle, fne-pebbled beach
with sheltered water. Buses take
you inland from Nice to exquisite
perched villages such as eze or
St-Paul-de-Vence (where the
fondation Maeght shows Calders,
Giacomettis, Chagals and Mirs
in futuristic buildings and green
gardens). The Alps are more like an
hour and a half away, which means
you really can ski in the morning and
plunge into the sea in the afternoon,
if you come in a cross-over month
like April. Train connections are
excellent Monaco, cannes and
Antibes are all very close, plus
bargain-hunting paradise at the
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nice
78 | october/november 2012
clockwise from top left,
queueing for a post-swim
shower, regular bather
Dominique Wahl; lookout
post for the lifeguards;
local girl Lola LePrince;
unmatchable fruits de mer
at caf de Turin and the
cafs busy staf eladie
and Gregory.
eat at ...
The century-old, legendary-and-
doesnt-it-know-it Hotel Negresco
charges 7 for a tarte tatin, but for
that you get to sit in a caf
decorated like a carousel, tour the
extraordinary collection of art in
the lobbies, and use what may
possibly be the most elegant
toilets in the world. (37 Promenade
des Anglais, +33 493 166 400;
hotel-negresco-nice.com)
Our favourite is the Caf de
turin, where bored staf, and their
ancestors, have been dishing up
oysters and other sea-life for more
than a century, and for kids they
serve ice cream in a plastic
penguin that you can take home
afterwards. (5 Place Garibaldi,
+33 493 622 952; cafedeturin.fr)
La Zucca Magica, on the port,
is a homey, award-winning
vegetarian restaurant with a set
menu only: surrender to the whim
of the chef. (4 bis, Quai Papacino,
+33 493 562 527)
Enjoying the shade
and the latest
news at Place
Garibaldi.
october/november 2012 | 79
Christmas fair (complete
with non-stop puppet
shows, a fake snowy
forest and the biggest
Ferris wheel Ive ever seen),
in February for its wildly
over-the-top carnival, or
pretty much anytime except
in the hot and crowded high
summer, Nice will not bore
you. Surprisingly large the
ffth biggest city in France,
after Paris, Marseille, Lyon
and Toulouse it can
nonetheless feel like a
charming resort when
youre having ice cream
by the beach, listening
to the sensuous crunch
of the stones rolling
under the waves. Speaking
of ice cream, Id recommend
Fenocchio Glacier in the old
town (at 2 Place Rossetti and
6 Rue de la Poissonerie), and
particularly their chocolate-ginger
and rhubarb favours, though if
youre braver than me you could try
Hotel Negresco
La Zucca
Magica
nice
80 | october/november 2012
colline du chteau a free lift
shoots you up through a clif
to a verdant park with shaded
spots to enjoy the view.
october/november 2012 | 81
the olive, poppy, thyme or cactus.
Nice has more museums and
galleries than almost anywhere
else but Paris. A free lift shoots you
up through a clif (the Colline du
Chteau Hill of the Castle) to a
verdant park with a fabulous multi-
storey waterfall thats been cooling
visitors with its mist since 1885.
Taxes are spent lavishly on
public art and entertainment;
there seems to be free festivity of
some kind (from string quartets
to try-your-hand-at-medieval-
combat) laid on every weekend.
Te highlight of the year and
perhaps the most memorable time
to visit is Carnaval, a fortnight
in February when gigantic moving
puppets of everyone from Zinedine
Zidane to Princess Kate tour the
streets. For the Bataille des Fleurs
(Flower Battle), with acrobats on
extraordinary foats tossing fowers at
you, its worth shelling out for a seat
in the stands, as it improves your
chances of snatching a great armful
of mimosa and orchids.
Ive been devouring Hilary
Spurlings prize-winning biography
of Matisse (who lived for decades in
the yellow building at the east end
of the Cours Saleya fower market,
and is buried up the hill in Cimiez,
where a lovely Muse Matisse now
sits between a Roman arena and
an olive grove). She remarks at one
point that Nice has decoration rather
than architecture. Te average old
building sports bold colours (yellow,
pink, green, terracotta), crumbling
Belle poque plaster reliefs and
trompe-loeil paintwork. (Our
four-year-old has become expert at
pointing at any suspiciously fat-
looking representation of a window
or a rosette and roaring trompe-
loeil, its trying to trick my eye!)
Even the most modern buildings
have a playfully decorative quality
to them; our favourite is a section
of the public library in the form of
a gigantic cube on a human neck.
Between the modern art gallery and
the national theatre sits a multi-
coloured Loch Ness Monster by Niki
de Saint Phalle, one of the many
artists (Dufy, Chagall, Bonnard,
Monet, Rodin) in whose works the
city is rich.
Along the fve kilometres of the
Promenade des Anglais, walkers,
cyclists, toddlers on scooters
and skilful skateboarders and
rollerbladers share the paths. Te
picturesque Vieille Ville (old town),
with its skinny streets decorated
with dangling washing, ofers cheap
pleasures (try the local favourite
socca, a chickpea pancake) and free
ones such as night-time music in
little Place Rossetti (by the baroque
Cathedral of Saint Rparate). Try
the gorgeously gilt Opera House for
last-minute tickets: weve seen operas
by Wagner, Puccini and Verdi (with
a real live horse).
Of course any spot so popular as
Top, left,
Promenade
des Anglais at
sundown when
everyone comes
out to play, and
above, right, in the
heat of the day.
Top, right, heady
stuf one of
Emmas favourite
modern buildings,
the public library.
nice
82 | october/november 2012
Aer Lingus fies from Dublin
to nice daily and from Cork
to nice, Tue and Sat.
breakfast nioise,
left, and above,
the little lighthouse
at the end of the
sea wall.
a base for exploring the Cte dAzur
will be expensive; a simple caf
crme could set you back 4. Dont
bring a car; parking is a nightmare
and you can travel across the city
by tram and bus, and far into the
countryside, all for 1. Or try one
of the vlos bleus for a euro a day
(though the wheels do occasionally
drop of; as a student explained to
me, late at night they simply kick
every rack they pass until a bike
pops out for them to borrow).
Nice may be classically French
in some ways the dog-fouled
paths, the aromatic patisseries (our
favourite is Patsserie Cappa in
Place Garibaldi try the palmier
la framboise, a wickedly buttery
double square pastry sandwiched
together with raspberry jam). But
for much of its history its been ...
not so much staunchly independent
as undecided. Part of the Genoese
League, then repeatedly overrun
by the Saracens, allied with
Pisa, in the hands of the
Counts of Provence, then
the Counts of Savoy,
the Franco-Ottoman army (despite
the gallantry of local laundress
Catherine Segurane, who is
claimed to have mooned the
Turkish invaders, repulsing
them in both senses), later
taken for France by Napoleon,
handed back to the King of
Sardinia ... whew! Nice fnally
joined France for good only in
1860, over the furious objections
of local boy Giuseppe Garibaldi,
who swore the vote was rigged and
Italy did grab it briefy, one more
time, in the middle of the Second
World War. So Nice is in many ways
Italian; the restaurant staples are
pasta and pizza (try the white ones,
based on crme fraiche rather than
tomato sauce). If you cant tell if
locals are speaking French or Italian,
it just might be Niois (aka Niard,
Nissart or Nizzardo), an Occitan
sub-dialect enjoying a revival. Te
French sometimes complain that
Nice is more cosmopolitan than
anything else, because foreigners
have been infesting it ever since
novelist Tobias Smollett kick-started
the tourist industry, when his 41
enthusiastic letters home were
published in 1766. But thats the
very quality that makes it so relaxing
for the rest of us.
Marathon
Men& woMen
The nice-cannes Marathon
runs on November 4. Starting on
the Promenade des Anglais in Nice,
and culminating on the Boulevard
de la Croisette in Cannes,
its a scenic challenge.
(marathon06.com)
TheTalkof theTown, aplaybyEmmaDonoghue
about thelifeandworks of MaeveBrennan, runs
toOctober 10at theProject Arts Centreas part of
the2012DublinTheatreFestival.
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october/november 2012 | 85
Autumn is always alluring in New England, as tree-covered hillsides put
on an unrivalled show of blazing colour. KimKnox Beckius recommends a
route that takes in some of the best spots for leaf gazing.
True Colours
october/november 2012 | 85
newengland
86 | october/november 2012
F
rom the time buds
sprout in springtime
until summers lush,
green phase, New
Englands maples,
elms, oaks and
birches are players
in a masquerade.
Without getting all scientifc, theres
solar-powered chemistry at work
inside their leaves, and as autumn
temperatures plummet and daylight
hours fade, they simply cant produce
their green camoufage chlorophyll
like they could on endless sunny
days. By autumn, then, when the
leaves true underlying colours are
revealed, and hillsides are sprinkled in
confetti shades, the party really gets
underway.
Fall fanatics know New England
is an unrivalled place to observe leaves
unmasking their fery identities, but
no one can predict the timing of this
natural phenomenon. Abandon any
obsession with seeing colours at their
peak and youll better appreciate
everything a day in New England can
ofer during unpredictable, yet always
alluring, autumn.
Set out from Boston during
early autumn and youre bound
to encounter stunning scenes as
you journey to renowned foliage
hot spots in this six-state region,
including New Hampshires White
Mountains, the Green Mountains
of Vermont and the Berkshires
in western Massachusetts.
First, though, spend a day or
two exploring Bostons world-
class attractions and colourful,
Revolutionary War-era history.
New Englands largest and
Americas most Irish city has more
pubs than you could frequent in a
week (including the bar that inspired
televisions long-running Cheers),
but, in a morning or afternoon, you
can check of many Boston must-
sees. Walk the 4km Freedom
Trail and relive dramatic
events from Americas
formative chapter.
Or, board a Second
World War-era
amphibious
vehicle on a
popular Duck
Tour and see
Bostons highlights
and changing
leaves from land
and sea.
Conway, north out of Boston on
the I-95, then on Route 16 through
New Hampshires scenic Lakes
Region. But youll want to spend a
leisurely day detouring to explore the
picture-perfect towns of Wolfeboro,
Moultonborough and Sandwich
on Lake Winnipesaukees
eastern shore. One of New
Englands quirkiest shopping
experiences awaits on Route 25 in
Moultonborough, where the Old
Country Store has sold eclectic
wares since 1781. Dont miss the
museum upstairs.
Tourists have escaped to the
White Mountains since the early
1800s and modern travellers can still
rest their heads at grand hotels such
as the Omni Mount Washington
Resort, which is classic but far from
stodgy. It is home to New Englands
typical New
England scenery
in autumn, in
New Hampshire.
This page, above,
Stockbridge
mainstreet, and
right, the new
State House in
Beacon Hill, Boston.
farm
fresh
Just of the Mohawk Trail in
Phillipston, Massachusetts, you
can pick apples or pumpkins, sip
fresh-pressed cider, take a hayride
or sample delicious goodies at
Red apple Farm(+1 978 249
6763; redapplefarm.com).
october/november 2012 | 87
STAY AT ...
Old-style grandeur
at McIndoe Falls,
Vermont.
Tree
Topview
Months before peaks are
snow-coated, ski areas fre up
chairlifts, giving foliage fanatics
views of changing hues at multiple
altitudes. New Hampshires
longest sky ride is one of many
adventures at Loon
(loonmtn.com).
most spectacular zipline course the
Bretton Woods Canopy Tour an
exhilarating way to leaf peep. Less
adventurous travellers enjoy Conway
Scenic Railroads nostalgic trips or
climbing to New Englands highest
point aboard an historic marvel, the
Mount Washington Cog Railway.
Te Kancamagus Highway,
Route 112, cuts a circuitous path
from Conway to Lincoln through
New Hampshires White Mountain
National Forest. Te Kanc is
widely regarded as New Englands
ultimate fall foliage drive. Although
it is just 55 km-long, its scenic
viewing points, hiking trails and
landmarks such as Albany Covered
Bridge and the Russell Colbath
House inspire travellers to make
frequent stops.
To reach Woodstock, Vermont,
in about two hours, continue on
Route 112 to Route 118 South, then
turn west on Route 4 in Canaan,
New Hampshire. Settled in 1768,
Woodstock is a photographers
paradise each autumn. Antique
homes ring the town green. Middle
Covered Bridge is in the heart of
the village. And Woodstock has
an unequalled fve bells cast at the
Revolutionary War patriot Paul
Reveres foundry: see one near First
Congregational Churchs entrance,
another behind the Woodstock
Inn. A quick skip south to Reading,
and youll bump into fellow foliage
paparazzi at Vermonts most
photographed farm, Jenne Farm,
which even appeared in Forrest
Gump. East of Woodstock, Quechee
Gorge doesnt quite merit its Grand
Canyon of the East nickname, but
this glacier-carved chasm through
which the Ottauquechee River spills
is photogenic when riverbanks glow
golden and orange.
You can reach Williamstown,
Massachusetts, in just over two
AMERICASOLDESTBALLPARK... Built by Irishimmigrant Charles Logue, Bostons
belovedFenwaypark(+16172266666; fenwaypark.com) has beenthe backdropfor
heartbreakandjubilationsince 1912. Take a tour or better still see a game.
In autumn many New England
inns demand a minimum two-
night stay. Book in advance and
focus on three bases North
Conway, New Hampshire;
Woodstock, Vermont; and
Williamstown, Massachusetts.
SPLURGE From 1901 to 1902,
more than 300 labourers built
Robert Paterson a Tudor-style
mansion inspired by his mothers
ancestral home in Scotland.
Today, only a privileged few
occupy the eight rooms, ten
suites and three cottages at
Blantyre (16 Blantyre Road,
Lenox, MA, +1 413 637 3556;
blantyre.com). This intensely
luxurious Relais & Chteaux
property, with sprawling grounds,
inventive cuisine, extraordinary
wine list and spa, is a romantic
autumn hideaway. Rooms
from $600.
MIDPRICE Choose a storybook
Victorian farmhouse set amid
16 wooded acres and you wont
have to venture any farther
than the gracious front
porch for spectacular
foliagescapes. The
Maple Leaf Inn
(5890 Route 12,
Barnard, VT, +1
802 234 5342;
mapleleafnn.
com) is a gem
with seven
guest rooms
most with working
freplaces and a
pillow library to ensure
blissful sleep. B&B from $240.
BUDGET Want to step
outside your cosy room on
a crisp morn and feast your
eyes on a view thats
been deemed one of
the worlds best from a
hotel or inn? Stay at The
1785 Inn & Restaurant (3582
White Mountain Highway,
North Conway, NH, +1 603
356 9025; the1785inn.com), for
Wi-Fi and Yankee hospitality.
B&B from $99.
new england
88 | october/november 2012
SPlURge When Simon
Pearce moved operations
from Ireland to an old
woollen mill in Quechee,
Vermont, in 1981, his
production facility became
a popular place to observe
glassblowers and potters at
work, to shop and to dine!
Simon Pearce Restaurant
(1760 Quechee Main Street,
Quechee, +1 802 295 1470;
simonpearce.com),
overlooks an Ottauquechee
River waterfall. Cuisine is
simply prepared American
fare with Irish and global
infuences and devotion to
Vermont-grown ingredients
artfully served on sleek,
elegant, handcrafted Simon
Pearce dinnerware.
MIdPRICe When youre
craving comfort food and
fresh beer after a day in the
outdoors, Moat Mountain
Smokehouse & Brewing
Company (3378 White
Mountain Highway, North
Conway, +1 603 356 6381;
moatmountain.com) delivers
on both fronts. Pork and
other meats are smoked
on-site, barbecue sauces
are homemade, pizzas are
wood-grilled, and the beers
brewed here, too. Sample
seasonal ales like Moat
Oktoberfest or mainstays
like chocolaty Moat Square
Tail Stout.
BUdgeT Inside Country
Mischief, a shop in a former
boys boarding school so
packed with antiques and
gifts, youll fall over when
you learn they have a
second location nearby,
theres a cute eatery: the
Mischievous Chef (10
Baldwinville Road,
Templeton, +1 978 939 5460;
countrymischief.com).
Breakfast and lunch are
available Wednesday
through Saturday, brunch
Sunday. You can dine
freside, but youll really
have a story if you choose
the table in what was once
the students three-seat
outhouse.
BRIDGEOFBEAUTY... In1929, residents of Shelburne Falls, Massachusetts,
transformedanabandoned, 122-metre trolley bridge intoa linear garden, andits
beenbloomingever since. Visit The Bridge of Flowers (bridgeoffowersmass.org).
aer lingus fies from
Dublin to Boston daily.
hours, but temptations to linger are
everywhere along the drive west
on Route 4, then south on Route 7
through Vermonts Green Mountain
National Forest. Savour real maple
syrups sweetness inside an authentic
sugarhouse in Mendon, where
Sugar & Spice serves breakfast and
lunch. In Bennington, fnd fve
covered bridges and then admire
panoramic views from Vermonts
tallest structure: the Bennington
Battle Monument.
Spend your days in the Berkshires
visiting art museums, wineries,
historic homes and orchards; driving
to the summit of iconic Mount
Greylock; hiking to Bash Bish
Falls or taking inspiration from
the National Shrine of the Divine
Mercy and its picturesque 350 acres.
In Stockbridge the enduring Red
Lion Inn is a charming place to dine
on dishes featuring locally harvested
ingredients.
Te return trip to Boston, along
New Englands oldest scenic byway,
will test your driving and take your
breath away. Te Mohawk Trail
Route 2 traces a path frst blazed
by Native Americans. Youll want
to pause at the famous hairpin turn
to gaze at rolling hills and valleys
shining with autumns glittery hues.
Before you head back to Boston
press a few leaves. Science cant
entirely account for the beauty of
each specimen, and your souvenirs
will remind you, as New Englands
most-loved poet Robert Frost
observed that: Nothing gold
can stay.
eaT aT ...
achusett
before you leave
for home, pick up
some gourmet
souvenirs at
Delucas market
in boston, above.
John Farrington
Antiques
FINE ANTIQUE
AND CONTEMPORARY JEWELS
32 DRURY STREET, DUBLIN 2.
TEL: +353-1-6791899
Email: john@johnfarringtonantiques.com
www.johnfarringtonantiques.com
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october/november 2012 | 91
It may host one of the ten busiest airports in the world,
but Frankfurt has more than a fight connection to ofer
visitors. Sarah OKeefe shares some of the citys secrets.
frankfurt
In completely darkened rooms
at the , you are
guided in small groups by blind
people through everyday situations
such as crossing a road, touching
walls, picking fruit and ordering a
drink in a bar. It is a reversal of roles:
blind people are ambassadors of a
culture without images. Bookings
must be made in advance and
the tour can take place in English.
(dialogmuseum.de) (dialogmuseum.de)
oc
The taunuS tHErMaL BatHS are
enjoyed by many visitors to Bad Homburg.
With indoor and outdoor pools, relaxing
areas, gym and beauty rooms to choose
from, a day at the spa fies by in utter bliss.
A 109 package includes a day pass to the
spa, massages and facial, topped of with a
glass of Prosecco. (taunus-therme.de)

at
gu
peo
su
wa
drin
bl
cu
mus
the
((
tHE ParLOur, where you
the-parlour.de)
BOutIQuES are hard to fnd in Frankfurt;
you have to make your way down the back
streets of the beaten track. Some of my
personal favourites are Kleidoskop, Blumor,
Jada, Buressi, Frida, Hayashi and Vanilla.
the open-air museum in HESSEnPark.
can experience how life really was in the
olden days. (hessenpark.de)
Step back into 400 years of rural life at at
A hidden gem housed in the famous Die Welle
building, the GarGantuarestaurant has a lovely
secluded terrace. Lunch is great value Monday to
Friday: two courses, for around 10, of high quality,
An Insiders Guide to
BEINGTHERE
92 | october/november 2012
My favourite Thai restaurant is RAMAV, named after Thai king Chulalongkorn
who is credited withhaving brought Westerninfuences to Thailand and saving it
fromcolonisation. Always busy so a reservationis necessary. (ramav-frankfurt.de)

without some sort of a FEST


in town, see: frankfurt-tourismus.de.
The main stretch of high street
shopping in Frankfurt, ZEIL, has
shops such as H&M, Zara and
Mango, etc. As for Shopping
centres, the latest addition, My
Zeil (myzeil.de) contains a gym
and many eateries providing a
birds eye view of the Frankfurt
skyline. It also has one of the
longest escalators in Germany
46 metres!
Ge ally kn ho to lebrat
of Germany, RUEDESHEIM about one hour
by train from Frankfurt is a must. It has natural
beauty, castles, monuments and many vineyards,
with wine tasting at every corner. Take the cable
car across the vineyards, breathe in the views
then walk back down. Its so worth it!
(ruedesheim.de)
If you are looking for a pop-up book scene
of Germany, RUEDESHEIM about one hour
(ruedesheim.de)

ROOMERS cocktail bar, in a fve-star hotel


near the main train station. You never
know who you might meet among the
international, stylish crowd. If you like great
cocktails (a bit pricey, mind) and want to
soak up a fashionable atmosphere, this is
where you should go. (roomers.eu)
About 50 minutes outside
Frankfurt by car, WERTHEIM
VILLAGE is an outlet centre
where you will fnd bargains
from labels such as Michael
Kors, Versace and Tommy
Hilfger. A Shopping Express
bus runs from Frankfurt
train station to Wertheim
Village, Monday to Saturday.
wertheimvillage.com)
92 | october/november 2012
where you should go. (roomers.eu)
Ab
Frank
VILL
wher
from
Kors,
Hilfge
bus ru
train
Villag
(wert
Along the Rhine you will fnd
BURG
SCHWARZENSTEIN, tucked away on
)
MORE ABOUT SARAH
"My love afair with Germany began
when I was 18 years old when I spent
the summer working in a hotel in
Schwangau, south Germany. I returned
to Germany, summer after summer for
the following fve years. I graduated
from Trinity College in Dublin with a
degree in German and having worked
in both Stockholm and Dublin, I
grabbed an opportunity to work in
Frankfurt six years ago. I am president
of the Irish Business Network Germany
for the Southwest region and we run
events in Frankfurt for Irish people in
Germany and, of course, for German
people who have a strong interest in
Ireland. (irishbusinessnetwork.de)
Aer Lingus fies
from Dublin to
Frankfurt daily.
IRELAND' S GREAT HUNGER MUSEUM
Qui nni pi ac Uni ver si t y | 301 1 Whi t ney Avenue Hamden, CT | (203) 582 8655 www. i ghm. org
O
P
E
N
I
N
G
O
C
T
O
B
E
R
2
0
1
2 Irelands Great Hunger
Museum is home to the
worlds largest collection
of art, artifacts and
ephemera relating to
the Great Hunger that
devastated Ireland
from 1845 to 1852. This
exceptional museum
makes visible the
interconnections between
Irish and diasporic history,
culture and memory.
LILIAN LUCY DAVIDSON ARHA
(1879-1954)
Burying the Child
Oil on canvas
24 x 30 in
beingthere
94 | october/november 2012
Stockholm
4
8
h
O
U
r
s
in
...
High design and home comforts await visitors
to Swedens capital city. Kate ODowd advises
on how to make the most of a weekend trip.
C
entral Stockholm is made up of 14 islands, each one
(generally) forming a natural district. Bridges keep the city
connected, so its not a case of bring your togs (though,
some do); its just about deciding which one to visit frst.
Gamla Stan is the Old Town, the tourist hub and the
chocolate-box-pretty image of Stockholm that graces postcards. To
the east is Skeppsholmen, which houses virtually all your Stockholm
museum-going in one neat package. Djrgarden, the citys favourite
green space, can be accessed by vintage tram from the beautiful
Strandvgan. Going south to Sdermalm, you enter one of the citys
most desirable residential areas, teeming with cool cafs, beautiful young
families and trendy twenty-somethings. stermalm and Normalm
share an island. Te former is the most up-market area in town, all
A-list hangouts, international fashion fagships and majestic homes; the
latter is the business district. Kungsholmen is little shouted about, but
is becoming increasingly trendy, with artists and loft-living urbanites
escaping there from the rocketing rents of stermalm and Sdermalm.
SLeeP At
Not surprisingly, the
beautiful hotels here are very
beautiful indeed. Expect
high design, with the home
comforts that come from
catering to harsh winters.
hiP One of the citys
coolest hotels, berns
hotel (Nckstrmsgatan
8, +46 8566 32200; berns.
se) attracts celebrities
and low-key chicsters.
Rooms are understated
and modern and its array
of nightclub options
means youre straight in with the
in-crowd. Rooms from 1,590SEK
(190), with breakfast.
hOMeLYA beautiful private
home in chic stermalm,
ett hem(Skldungagatan 2, +46
820 0590; etthemstockholm.se),
Swedish for at home, has just
been renovated to take guests
and ofers rental by the room, the
foor or the whole house. Luxury,
here, is helping yourself from the
fridge and taking their dog for
a walk. Rooms from 3,800SEK
(455), with breakfast.
hAnDYIf, on the other hand,
you like to be left to your
own devices, Story hotel
(Riddargatan 6, +46 8545 03940;
storyhotels.com) ofers a range
of eccentrically named (and
artistically decorated) rooms
like the Super Squeeze; deduce
what you will at reasonable
prices. Book online and then
check in electronically to receive
your room number and key code.
Rooms from 1,190SEK (145),
with breakfast.
SLeeP
No
beau
beau
high
comf
cate
coole
ho
8,
se
and
Ro
and
of
Ett Hem
THECARD... If youre planninga full sightseeingitinerary, the StockholmCardis a must.
For 190SEK(23) per day (basedona fve-day card), youll get unlimitedfree public
transport, admissionto80attractions; free sightseeingtours andmore.
Buy online for a 10per cent discount: visitstockholm.com/en/stockholmcard.
october/november 2012 | 95
EAT AT
Stockholms foodie scene is really
coming into its own as the reputation of
Scandinavian cuisine grows. Its not
cheap to eat here, but choose wisely
and youre in for a treat.
FANCYPontus! (Brunnsgatan 1,
+46 8545 27300; pontusfrithiof.com),
is one of the most lauded restaurants
by Pontus Frithiof, a true culinary
royal in Stockholm. The three-storey
super-eatery combines a seafood bar,
a cocktail lounge with Asian bites and
a traditional dining roomwith a very
modern, fresh menu.
FUNA modern bistro by another local
celeb, Mathias Dahlgren, Matbaren
(Sdra Blasieholmshamnen 8, +46 8679
3584; mathiasdahlgren.com) is the
informal dining option at the Grand
Hotel but this aint no canteen; theres
a Michelin star with innovative dishes
in a relaxed setting.
FIKAGildas Rum(Sknegatan 79,
facebook.com/gildasrum) is a favourite
with local creatives for its quirky decor,
friendly staf and delicious cofee-break
(thats fka) oferings, just of the very
cool Nytorget square.
SHOP AT
Stockholmers love their shopping,
particularly when indulging in the fruits
of home-grown talent. And why
wouldnt they?
DESIGNModernity (Sibyllegatan 6,
+46 820 8025; modernity.se) has the
crme de la crme of 20th century
classic furniture it supplies museum-
quality pieces to collectors as well
as stocking a choice jewellery
collection and a good range of
smaller, more afordable decor
items, to give your IKEA dresser
some kudos. Sibyllegatan is a good
design destination, overall, with lots of
interesting stores, up and down.
FOODWhile youre there, nip across
to stermalmSaluhall, the ultimate
indoor food market, with stalls selling
fsh and seafood, cheeses, Swedish
meats, chocolates and anything else
you might hanker after. It houses lots of
little restaurants too (seafood, sambos,
bistros) that youll genuinely want to sit
and eat at ie, the place doesnt smell
like a butchers shop, as so many food
halls do.
FASHIONRodebjer (Regeringsgatan
50, +46 8206 614; rodebjer.com)
is the home ground of Swedish
womenswear designer Carin Rodebjer,
a burgeoning favourite among the
international fashion community for her
characteristically minimal Scandinavian
aesthetic.
GO SEE
Cultural attractions are typically
very well run in Stockholm.
PHOTOGRAPHYFotografska
(Stadsgrdshamnen 22, +46 8509
00500; fotografska.eu) is as
popular for its waterfront views,
as it is for its exhibitions the
late Swedish master Christer
Strmholms CHR, is on viewuntil
November 25.
HISTORYA must-see is the Vasa
Museum(Galrvarvsvgen 14,
+46 8519 54800; vasamuseet.
se), which holds an awe-inspiring
warship that sank in Stockholm
harbour in 1628. Raised in 1961, its
splendour, after three centuries under
water, is magnifcent.
FILMMurder mystery geeks will be
well acquainted with the seedier side
of Stockholm, through its depictions
in Stieg Larssons Millennium Trilogy
the StockholmCity Museumruns
Saturday walking tours (in English) of
Sdermalmas it is mapped out in the
books, for 120SEK (15) per person.
DRINK AT
Theres no real pub scene in
Stockholm, but hip caf-style bars are
all over the place.
PARTYLittle Quarter, at Deep
Southern-style restaurant Marie
Laveau (Hornsgatan 66, +46 8668
8500; marielaveau.se) is a hub for
boho-chic hedonists, serving up
killer cocktails and the best live and
electronic music in Sdermalm.
CHILL The Terrace (Sdra
Blasieholmshamnen 2, +46 822 3160;
lydmar.com), a library-style bar in the
desirably boutique Lydmar Hotel, was
made for settling in early to enjoy
the warmatmosphere good food and
great wines.
Aer Lingus fies from
Dublin to StockholmMon,
Wed, Fri and Sun.
Main picture, a
city of islands,
Stockholm is
a collection of
independent
locales; above,
view the
impressive
wreckage at the
Vasa Museum.
ts
-
and t at i the pl do nt ell
Cul
very
(Sta
0050
popu
as
late
St
No
Mu
+4
se
wa
harbour
splendo
Pontus!
stermalmSaluhall
The Terrace
A GIFT WITH A DIFFERENCE
A PIECE OF IRELAND IS THE PERFECT PRESENT, FOR WHEN THE ORIGINAL COUNTS
WWW.IRELANDSCROWN.COM
At Irelands Crown we give you the unique opportunity to buy
your very own piece of Malin Head, at the most northerly point
of the emerald isle.
Buy a square foot of Ireland for yourself or a loved one as the
perfect present for only $49.99.
Reconnect with your ancestral homeland through owning
what is rightly yours. All the while, you will help to keep the
natural beauty of the land unspoilt, and preserve it for future
generatons to enjoy.
In your gif package you will receive ofcial and unique
certfcaton, legal documentaton, original artwork by Irish
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Ireland is calling you home, buy your piece of Irelands
Crown now.
E: info@IrelandsCrown.com W: www.IrelandsCrown.com T: +44 028437 67342
Irelands Crown LTD, 42a Oldtown Rd, Annalong, Co. Down, Northern Ireland BT34 4RN
@IrelandsCrown facebook.com/irelandscrown42a
For your guide to our new and exciting
On Demand movies and television
programmes, including To Rome With
Love (pictured), turn to page 102.
InFlight
october/november 2012 | 97
Portableelectronic equipment
Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft
equipment, creating a potentially hazardous situation. With
safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular attention to the
following:
Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be
switched of and stowed safely as soon as the aircraft doors are closed.
It is not permissible to use any electronic device to transmit or receive
data during the fight, however devices equipped with fight mode, or
the equivalent, may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the
device is switched of.
For your comfort and safety
Please pay attention while the
cabin crew demonstrate the
use of the safety equipment
before take-of. Also, make
sure to read the safety
instruction card, which is in
the seat pocket in front of you.
Seat belts must be fastened
during take-of and landing,
and whenever the Fasten
Seat Belts sign is switched on.
We recommend that you keep
your seat belt loosely fastened
throughout the fight.
Your seat must be in the
upright position during take-
of and landing, but can be
reclined by pressing the large
button in the armrest. Other
buttons (in the armrest or
above your head, depending
on the aircraft) may be used
to operate your reading light
and air vent, or to call a cabin
attendant.

DevicesPermitteD
atanytime: Devices
powered by micro battery cells
and/or by solar cells; hearing aids
(including digital devices); pagers
(receivers only); heart pacemakers.

DevicesPermitteD
inflightbutnot
Duringtaxi/take-off/
initialclimb/aPProach
lanDing: Laptops with CD
ROMor DVDdrive, palmtop
organisers, handheld calculators
without printers, portable
audio equipment (eg Walkman,
CD-player, Mini-disk player,
iPod and MP3-player). For the
comfort of other passengers,
audio devices should be used
with a headset. Computer games
(eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS).
Video cameras/recorders, digital
cameras, GPS handheld receivers,
electric shavers, electronic toys.
Bluetooth devices with mobile
phones in Flight mode, devices
with Blackberry technology
with Flight/Flight Safe mode
selected, laptops, PDAs with
built-in Wi-Fi with Wireless Of
setting selected.

Devices ProhibiteD
at all times: Devices
the WLANoption is turned of
and subject to the restrictions
Ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le
do shbhilteacht ...
... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a
thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann
cbin ag ts na heililte
agus iad ag taispeint
conas an fearas slndla a
sid. Iarraimid ort an crta
threoraca slndla at i bpca
an tsuochin os do chomhair a
lamh chomh maith.
Caithfear criosanna sbhla
bheith ceangailte le linn ir
agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon
am a bhonn an comhartha
Fasten Seat Belts ar iasadh.
Molaimid duit an crios sbhla
bheith leathcheangailte agat i
rith an turais.
Le linn ir agus tuirlingthe, n
mr do shuochan bheith sa
suomh ingearach. Ag am ar
bith eile, is fidir an suochn
a chur siar ach br ar an
gcnaipe mr at ar an taca
uillinne. T cnaip eile ann
(ar an taca uillinne n os do
chionn, ag brath ar an eitlen)
chun sid a bhaint as an
solas litheoireachta n as an
ngaothaire, n chun glaoch ar
bhall den fhoireann cbin.
Aboard Welcome
98 | october/november 2012
Fearas iniompartha leictreonach
mr seoaleanas:

GLAsAnnAAt
ceAdAItheI rIth
nAheItILte, AchnAch
bhFuILceAdAItheLeLInn
doneItLenbheIthAG
GLuAIseAchtArtALAmh/AG
Ir dethALAmh/ AGtAbhAIrt
FAoIndreApAdhtosAIGh/
AGdrIArthuIrLInGt/
AGtuIrLInGt:
Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar
mhaithe le compordna bpaisiniri
eile, nor choir na glasanna seo a
suite domhanda (GPS). Rsir
leicreacha. Bragin leictreonacha
(seachas bragin chianrialaithe).
Glasanna Bluetooth i gcomhar
roghnaithe orthu.

Silscalaithe. Bragan
chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhstaispena
le feadin ga-chatadideacha.
Trealamh romhaire gan sreang (ms
luch). Printir PC. Schrbhneoiri
DVD, CDagus taifeadin Mini-
disk at sa mhodh taifeadta.
Ceamthaifeadin digiteacha agus
iad ag athscrobh dlthdhiosca.
Steirnna iniompartha. Raidinna
pca (AM/ FM). Glacadiri teilifse.
Trealamh teilimadrach. N
cheadatear fearas LANgan sreang
(WLAN) a sid. Is fidir romhair
gline a bhfuil WLANionsuite iontu
(ms Centrino) a sd le linn na
heitilte ar choinnoll go bhfuil WLAN
curtha as agus faoi rir na srianta
a bhaineann le hsid romhhair
gline (thuas luaite).
Food and bar service
A new range of food items including
sandwiches, confectionery and a range
of snacks is available for sale on all Aer
Lingus scheduled services to and from
the UK and Europe. A charge applies for
all drinks on UK and European fights
in Economy class. On long haul fights,
there is a charge in Economy class for
alcoholic drinks, while soft drinks are
complimentary. Details of all items
available for purchase are contained in
an information leafet, which is in all seat
pockets.
news, music
and movies
On long haul fights, we ofer you an
seirbhs bia agus beir
T raon nua bia ar fil anois ar sheirbhs
sceidealta Aer Lingus a dhanann freastai
ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus ar an Eoraip.
Ina measc, t ceapair, milseogra agus
rogha sneaiceanna agsla. N mr oc
as gach deoch sa ghrd barainne ar na
heitilt seo. Ar eitilt Trasatlantacha, t
costas ar dheochanna neamh-mheiscila
go fill ar fil saor in aisce. T sonra faoi
gach rud is fidir a cheannach ar bord
foilsithe sa bhileog eolais at i bpca an
tsuochin os do chomhair.
nuacht, ceol agus
scannin
Ar eitilt Trasatlantacha t clr leathan
fachana agus isteachta ar fil. Le
hagaidh tuilleadh eolais, fach deireadh
na hirise seo.
Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board
T thas ar Aer Lingus filte ar bord a chur romhat
Smoking
In line with Irish government
regulations, Aer Lingus has a no-
smoking policy onboard its fights.
Smoking is not permitted in any
part of the cabin at any time.
tobAc
De rir rialachin Rialtas na hireann,
t polasai i rimar eitilt Aer Lingus
nach gceadatear tobac a chaitheamh.
N cheadatear daon duine tobac a
chaitheamh in aon chuid
den eitlen ag aon am.
We hope you have a comfortable and pleasant fight. Thank you for choosing to fy with Aer Lingus.
T suil againn go mbonn turas compordach taitneamhach agat agus go raibh maith agat as taisteal le hAer Lingus.
october/november 2012 99
News AerLingus
Cork-based
staff Complete
triathloninaidof
marymount hospiCe
On 25 August, a group of 20 Cork based
Aer Lingus staff participated in the
Escape fromSpike Island Triathlon, in
aid of Marymount Hospice in Cork.
The relay event consisted of a 1500m
swim, 20kmcycle and a 10kmrun.
Thankfully all teams fnished the race,
but a special word of congratulations goes
to cabin crewmember Louise OShea,
who fnished third overall in the
individual event.
Over 18,000 has been raised for this
very worthy cause, with all proceeds
going directly to The Marymount
Hospice.
We would like to take this opportunity
to congratulate all those who participated
in the charitable event. Aspecial thank
you to our passengers who contributed so
generously to the collections that took
place on board fights in the week
preceding the event.
Over 76,000
raisedinspecial
cOllectiOnfOr
Unicef syria appeal
A special collection, which
took place on board all Aer
Lingus fights for one week
during the month of August,
raised 76,972 for UNICEF
Irelands Emergency Appeal
for the children of Syria.
The monies raised will
help to support the lives of
vulnerable Syrian children
in providing life-saving
interventions such as safe
water, essential vaccines and
child protection measures,
along with educational
support. We would like to
take this opportunity to
thank our customers for
From left to right, Captain
Kevin Daunt and cabin crew
member, Edel ODonovan.
100 | october/november 2012
News AerLingus
AerLingus introduces new
PArkingoPtions onaerlingus.com
Aer Lingus customers can now purchase the Car Parking products
online in three diferent ways:
Via a link on the Aer Lingus homepage on aerlingus.com
During the booking process on aerlingus.com a new option will
appear on the Travel Essentials page
When a booking has been completed, an option will be available
on the booking confrmation page
Booking online for the Long TermCar Park is the perfect option
for anyone planning a longer trip abroad.
Express Long Term Red Car Park from 6.50 per day or part
thereof.
The Holiday Long Term Blue Car Park from 4.95 per day or
part thereof.
Each ofers a 24 hour courtesy shuttle bus service.
Short TermCar Parks start from 9.50 per day or part thereof.
Located just a 2-4 minute walk from T2 and a 6-8 minute walk
from T1, this is an ideal option for business travellers.
For further information on the diferent Car Parking options,
log on to aerlingus.com or
aerlingusparking.com.
HigHSPeedwireLeSS ConneCTiviTy
inTHe CabiniS CoMingSoon
Aer Lingus long haul feet will be ftted with high
speed wireless internet capability over the winter
period. By the end of March 2013, all Aer Lingus
customers on transatlantic services will be able to
access the internet in-fight. Customers will have
a choice of accessing the web via the In-fight
Entertainment System or via their own laptop, tablets
or other personal electronic devices. It is anticipated
that wireless internet access will be rolled out across
the entire Aer Lingus short haul feet in 2014.
Aer Lingus has teamed up with the Dublin Airport
Authority (DAA) to ofer its customers Long Term and
Short Term parking options at Dublin Airport.
Aer Lingus is delightedtosupport the Paris2Nice cycle, raising
funds for Special Olympics andCelebral Palsy Sport Ireland.
The sixday, 700kmcycle takes place from29September to
4October 2012. paris2nice.com
MuffinMadneSS arriveS inbeLfaST!
To help create awareness of Aer Lingus move to
George Best Belfast City Airport and to launch its
new route from Belfast to London Gatwick, Aer
Lingus ran a competition with Belfast shoppers on
Saturday 1st September. Over 1,000 Aer Lingus
mini mufns were distributed to shoppers and they
had the opportunity to enter a competition to win a
fabulous trip to London with a decadent afternoon
tea in a fve star London hotel.
october/november 2012 | 101
MADAGASCAR 3:
EUROPES MOST
WANTED
Action / Animation/ Family ( PG)
93 minutes
This is the much anticipated third instalment
in the animation franchise and follows
up whereMadagascar andMadagascar:
Escape 2 Africa left of. Alex the Lion, Marty
the Zebra, Gloria the Hippo, and Melman
the Girafe are still fghting to get home
to their beloved Big Apple and of course,
King Julien, Maurice and the Penguins are
all along for the comedic adventure. Their
journey takes themthrough Europe where
they fnd the perfect cover: a traveling circus,
which they reinvent Madagascar style.
STARSThEvOiCESOf Ben Stiller,
David Schwimmer, Sacha Baron Cohen,
Jada Pinkett Smith, Chris Rock,
Frances McDormand
DiRECTOR Eric Darnell
More Movies On Demand
BEASTS Of ThE
SOUThERN WilD
Quvenzhane Wallis
BUlly
JaMeya Jackson
CROOkED ARROWS
Brandon Routh
DARk ShADOWS
Johnny Depp
ThE DiCTATOR
Sacha Baron Cohen
hiCk
Blake Lively
lOlA vERSUS
Greta Girwig
ThE MAGiC Of BEllE iSlE
Morgan Freeman
SAfE
Jason Statham
SAfETy NOT
GUARANTEED
Mark Duplass
SEARChiNGfOR SUGAR
MAN
Rodriguez
WhAT TOExPECT WhEN
yOURE ExPECTiNG
Cameron Diaz
COWGiRlS NANGElS
Bailee Madison
BEE MOviE
Jerry Seinfeld (voice)
PUSS iN BOOTS
Antonio Banderas (voice)
kATy PERRy:
PART Of ME
Documentary / Music (PG ) 93 minutes
Katy Perry: Part of Me is a backstage
pass and front rowseat look at the fun,
glamorous, heartbreaking, inspiring,
crazy, passionate, and honest diary of
the superstar. This is an intimate look at
the pop star fromher early career as a
teenage Christian singing star, to her life in
Los Angeles where she almost gave up on
her dreamand the big break that shot her
to stardom. On the tour we witness her
creative genius and what its like to be one of
the top three female singers in the world
but we also witness her marriage to Russell
Brand break down.
STARS Katy Perry
DiRECTOR Dan Cutforth, Jane Lipsitz
The Amazing Spiderman
Madagascar 3: Europes
Most Wanted
Katy Perry: Part
Of Me
FLIGHTS TOTHE US
From Dublin to Boston, Chicago,
New York and Orlando;
from Shannon to Boston and
New York; from Madrid to
Washington. Movies available
are listed below. All movie details
and ratings can be accessed
through your personal screen.
Movies
FLIGHTS TOTHE US
ThE AMAZiNG
SPiDERMAN
Action / Adventure (PG 13) 136 minutes
The Amazing Spider-Man is the story of
Peter Parker, a high school outcast who was
abandoned by his parents as a boy. Peter
is trying to fgure out howhe got to be the
person he is today. As Peter discovers a
mysterious briefcase, he begins a quest to
understand his parents disappearance
leading himto the lab of Dr. Curt Connors
his fathers former partner. As Spider-Man is
set on a collision course with Connors alter-
ego, Peter will make life-altering choices
to use his powers and shape his destiny to
become a hero.
STARS Andrew Garfeld, Emma Stone,
Rhys Ifans, Denis Leary, Campbell Scott,
Martin Sheen, Sally Field
DiRECTOR Marc Webb
102 | october/november 2012
iNfliGhT ENTERTAINMENT
MEN IN BLACK 3
Action / Comedy / Sci-Fi (PG 13)
105 minutes
In Men in Black 3, Agents J and K are back.
J has seen some inexplicable things in his
15 years with the Men in Black, but nothing,
not even aliens, perplexes himas much as
his wry, reticent partner. But when Ks life
and the fate of the planet are put at stake,
Agent J will have to travel back in time to
put things right. J discovers that there are
secrets to the universe that K never told
him-- secrets that will reveal themselves as
he teams up with the young Agent K to save
his partner, the agency, and the future of
humankind.
StArS Will Smith, Tommy Lee Jones,
Josh Brolin, Jemaine Clement, Michael
Stuhlbarg, Alice Eve, Bill Hader, David
Rasche, Emma Thompson, Mike Colter,
Lenny Venito
DIrECtor Barry Sonnenfeld
More Movies On Demand
ABrAhAMLINCoLN:
VAMpIrE huNtEr
Benjamin Walker
BEL AMI
Robert Pattinson
hEMINgwAy &
gELLhorN
Nicole Kidman
IN thE LAND of BLooD
AND hoNEy
Rade Serbedzija
JESuS hENry ChrISt
Toni Collette
LoL
Miley Cyrus
LIttLE MurDEr
Josh Lucas
pEACE, LoVE AND
MISuNDErStANDINg
Jane Fonda
proMEthEuS
Charlize Theron
roCK of AgES
Tom Cruise
toNIght yourE MINE
(you INStEAD)
Luke Treadway
toroME wIth LoVE
Penelope Cruz
thE grEAt ghoSt
rESCuE
Kevin McKidd
MADAgASCAr
Chris Rock (voice)
ShrEK thE thIrD
Eddie Murphy (voice)
SEEKINgA frIEND for
thE END of thE worLD
Drama / Comedy / Romance (R)
101 minutes
This is the directorial debut of screenwriter
Lorene Scafaria. Set in a not too distant
future, the dramedy explores what people
will do when humanitys last days are at
hand, as a giant asteroid is about to hit
the Earth. Insurance salesman Dodge
fnds himself facing the end of the world
alone when his wife leaves himin a panic.
He decides to seek out his high school
sweetheart and is joined on the journey
by free-spirited Penny, who longs to see
her family again. As these mismatched two
converge, sparks fy and the worlds future
somehow looks brighter ... in spite of the
odds.
StArS Steve Carell, Keira Knightley
DIrECtor Lorene Scafaria
Brave
Men In Black 3
FLIGHTS FROMTHE US
From Boston, Chicago, New
York and Orlando to Dublin;
from New York and Boston to
Shannon; from Washington to
Madrid. Movies available are
listed below. All movie details
and ratings can be accessed
through your personal screen.
Movies
Seeking A Friend For The
End Of The World
FLIGHTS FROMTHE US
BrAVE
Animation / Action / Adventure (PG)
100 minutes
Merida is a skilled archer and impetuous
daughter of King Fergus and Queen Elinor.
Determined to carve her own path in life,
Merida defes an age-old custom sacred to
the uproarious lords of the land: massive
Lord MacGufn, surly Lord Macintosh
and cantankerous Lord Dingwall. Meridas
actions inadvertently unleash chaos and
fury in the kingdom, and when she turns
to an eccentric old Witch for help, she is
granted an ill-fated wish. The ensuing peril
forces Merida to discover the meaning of
true bravery in order to undo a beastly
curse before its too late.
StArSthEVoICESof Kelly Macdonald,
Emma Thompson, Kevin McKidd, Robbie
Coltrane, Craig Ferguson, Billy Connolly,
Julie Walters
DIrECtor Mark Andrews, Brenda
Chapman
october/november 2012 | 103
On Demand TV gives you the opportunity
to select and view your favourite TV
shows. Look out for the most anticipated
new shows on TV in this extensive choice
of award-winning comedy and drama as
well as a variety of genres. COMEDY
HIGHLIGHTS takes in fresh new comedy
from HBO in Veep, Enlightened and Curb
Your Enthusiasm. More exciting comedy
includes Two Broke Girls, Modern Family,
Raising Hope, NewGirl, Family Guy, The
Big Bang Theory and The IT Crowd. Classic
comedy features Mork and Mindy, Frasier
and Sex and The City.
As we witness a golden age in TV drama
Aer Lingus brings you an engaging choice
of DRAMA TV with the availability of both
one-of and multiple episodes. Watch out
for the new HBO drama The Newsroom,
this exhilarating drama takes a behind-the-
scenes look at the life of a news anchor and
his newsroom staf. CSIs popularity speaks
for itself as in 2012 it was named the most
watched show in the world for the ffth time.
More brand new Drama in Hart of Dixie
starring Rachel Bilson as Dr. Zoe Hart.
Available On-Demand is six episodes
of Season 2 from the HBO triumph
Boardwalk Empire. Steve Buscemi stars in
ON DEMAND
and Golden Globe award. Available On-
Demand is six episodes from Season 3.
TEENS can view Glee, Shake It Up, Zeke
and Luther and kids will love Angelina
Ballerina, Bob The Builder, Fireman Sam,
Thomas and Friends and brand new Irish
animation exclusive to Aer Lingus in ImA
Creepy Crawly.
LIFESTYLE ANDMUSICHIGHLIGHTS
include Elbow: Live On Air, Radio 1:
Hackney Weekend, Inside the Actors
Studio (The Cast of Mad Men), Later with
Jools Holland, Amy: The Day She Came
to Dingle, A Day in the Life, Meat Men,
Jamies 30 Minute Meals, Movie Talk,
Videofashion News, Uncorked! Wine Made
Simple, The Doctors, HSBCGolfng World,
Click and World Olympic Dreams.
In DOCUMENTARYHIGHLIGHTS enter a
world beyond imagination in BBCs Frozen
Planet narrated by Sir David Attenborough.
The National Geographic channel presents
Engineering Connections and Nat
Geo Amazing. Dont miss the insightful
documentary Waterways: The Royal
Canal. Marilyn Monroe in the Movies is a
retrospective on the iconic blonde who is
dead 50 years this year; Charlie Boorman
concludes the schedule in Extreme
Frontiers.
CSI
Television
INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT
this award-winning drama series that charts
the continued rise of organized crime at the
dawn of Prohibition in Atlantic City, New
Jersey. In Season 2 all the promise of last
season looks to be realized with impressively
deft storytelling, beautiful cinematography
and impeccable acting. (Hollywood
Reporter)
Premium HBO drama continues in
Treme with the frst six episodes of Season
2. This Emmy-nominated drama series takes
place during the rebuilding of post-Katrina
New Orleans. It charts the interconnected
stories of several struggling musicians and
locals, as they attempt to rebuild their lives
through the music and traditions that make
them, and the city, unique.
The stylish Mad Men is set in a fctional
1960s advertising agency in New York City.
This complex and intelligent drama has
received much critical acclaim, particularly
for its historical authenticity and visual style
and has won multiple Emmy and Golden
Globe awards. Available On-Demand is six
episodes from Season 4.
Watch out for six episodes of Season
2 of Blue Bloods, also set in New York, it
stars Tom Selleck. This drama is a solid and
gritty character-driven, multi-story series
and Sellecks character
serves as the anchor for
four generations of police
ofcers.
Award-winning drama
continues with The Good
Wife- a drama about
a politicians wife who
pursues her own career as
a defense attorney after
her husband is charged with
political corruption. Julianna
Margulies has been widely
recognized for her portrayal
of Alicia Florrick, and has
won a Primetime Emmy
award, Screen Actors Guild
Two Broke Girls
The Newsroom
104 | october/november 2012
Radio
ON DEMAND
Larrys Golden Oldies
Legendary RT 2fm DJ Larry Gogan
brings listeners on board his selection
of 1980s classics. Larry has been
playing music on RT 2fm for over 30
years and he spun the frst disc on
that station in 1979. Larry is famed for
his music knowledge and is thrilled
to bring Aer Lingus passengers his
eclectic 80s mix. From Michael
Jackson to Wham, Simple Minds,
George Michael and U2- Larry has
the 1980s covered.
Tune in to hear more from the legend
himself -weekdays on RT 2fm from
1-2pm on Larrys Golden Hour.
Fitzpatrick Hotels
This is a contemporary easy-listening
collection of songs from both sides
of the Atlantic, brought to you
compliments of The Fitzpatrick
Hotel Group USA. With two hotels
in downtown Manhattan, Grand
Central and Fitzpatrick Manhattan,
Fitzpatricks is the place to stay in
NYC. Visit their website for more
information ftzpatrickhotels.com.
Fitzpatrick Hotels USA are also on
Twitter & Facebook.
Easy Listening
1980s
Best of Moncrief
Best of Moncrief is a lively mix
of funny, engaging and irreverent
features. Its insightful format
gives listeners a unique listening
experience. Tune into Best of
Moncrief every weekday from
1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108fm
for a lively mix of phone-ins, text
messages and stories from around
the world and down your street.
Text 53106, email afternoon@
newstalk.ie or follow Sean on
Twitter @SeanMoncrief
Talk Radio
Phantom 105.2
Phantom 105.2
is quite simply
the home of
the very best
music played on
any Irish radio
station. Phantom is committed to
playing brand new music, Indie Rock
but really we will play all genres of
music if its a great track, we will
play it. Oh, we also like having a bit
of craic along the way so why not
try something diferent and tune
into Phantom 105.2 we promise
you wont be disappointed! We are
Phantom music that rocks!
Alternative Classical
Chart Hits
Chart Hits lifts the
lid on the biggest
and most up-to-the-
minute chart hits
from both sides of
the Atlantic. Listen
out for your favourite artists in this
compilation of smash hits. Featuring
the worlds most successful artists
Kylie, Scissor Sisters, Katy Perry,
Cheryl and newcomers to the
scene Stooshe and Marina and the
Diamonds and everybodys favourite
twins Jedward.
Pop
Cathal Murrays Soul
Show
RT Radio 1s Cathal
Murray has chosen
the best in soul for
your listening pleasure.
Replenish your soul as you enjoy the
voices of icons like Curtis Mayfeld
and Aretha Franklin. Cathal presents
The Weekend on One with Cathal
Murray every Saturday and Sunday
morning on RT Radio 1. Cathals
eclectic musical taste has won over
fans in Ireland and beyond. Twitter
@MurrayCathal
Soul
Ceol na nGael
Ceol na nGael
is a traditional
music programme
presented, in
Irish, by Sen
hanaigh. Sen
presents Sruth na Maoile on RT
Raidi na Gaeltachta. The station is
the national Irish language broadcaster
in Ireland, and is celebrating 40 years
on air. Ceol traidisinta agus ceol tre
den scoth, le Sen hanaigh. For
more visit: rte.ie/rnag.
Twitter @RTERnaG
Traditional Irish
Marty Whelan Selects
Classical
Marty Whelan
selects some of
his favourite music
from the worlds of
classical, flm and
the Great American Songbook.
The programme includes works by
Puccini, Mascagni, Vaughan Williams
and Grieg and sweeping scores from
Ennio Morricone, plus the music of
the great tunesmiths like Cole Porter
and George Gershwin. Marty in the
Morning is on RT lyric fm Monday
to Friday from 07.00-10.00am.
october/november 2012 | 105
Radio
ON DEMAND
Keep It Country
Keep It Country ofers a sublime
blend of cooling Country sounds.
With hits from both classic and
modern artists, you are sure to
experience the refreshing favours
of authentic country music. Willie
Nelson, Carrie Underwood, Keith
Urban, Kenny Chesney, Chris Cagle
and many others perform some of
their best works for you today.
Copeland Classic Hits
Welcome to the music of Copeland
Classic Hits brought to courtesy
of Louis Copeland & Sons, a name
synonymous with mens tailoring in
Dublin. Classic Hits is an exciting
selection of hits from the 1970s.
Louis Copeland is a world renowned
master tailor and provider of mens
suits for over 100 years. His stores
are located on in Dublin on Capel
St, Pembroke St and Wicklow St and
beside the IFSC, in Dublin Airport
and in Galway. From Armani, Hugo
Boss, Paul Smith and more- all
leading labels are available in all
stores. louiscopeland.com
Opera: On Song
Bernard Clarke
presents a selection
of music from the
heart of the core
opera repertoire
including some
of the greatest voices along the
way Maria Callas, Renata Tebaldi,
Giuseppe di Stefano, Jon Vickers,
LucianoPavarotti, Anna Netrebko,
Bryn Terfel, Lotte Lenya and many
more. Tune into Opera Night
presented by Bernard Clarke on RT
lyric fm on Saturdays from 7pm-10pm
for more operatic delights.
Broadway Favourites
Broadway Favourites may tempt
you to visit a Broadway show whilst
in New York or indeed provide
inspiration to tread the boards
yourself. This show is a fun collection
of memorable songs from the worlds
most famous Broadway musicals.
Tune in to hear hits from Annie Get
Your Gun, The Sound of Music, Singin
In The Rain, Guys and Dolls, Carousel
and many more. Enjoy!
RT Jr
Join Emma
ODriscoll and
her friends from
Emmas Magical
Kingdom on
RTjr Radio for a
fun packed show to enjoy during
your fight! Theres Disney music, a
Disney quiz and a little bit of pixie
dust added in here and there! RTjr
Radio is Irelands only radio station
thats just for children. You can tune
in on your digital radio, online rte.
ie/digitalradio/rtejr Saorview and
on the RT Radio Player on your
mobile device to hear more.
Kids Musical Hits 1970s
The Big 10
Produced
especially for Aer
Lingus, Darragh
ODea presents
98FMs Big Ten
songs from the movies. This show
contains clips from some of the
biggest stars of cinema from the
past 50 years as well as the songs
that made them such a success.
Join Darragh in his countdown of
the most famous songs from your
favourite Movies. For more tune
into 98FM from 10-11am every
weekend.
Countdown
Jazz Alley
Donald Helme
takes a leisurely
look at the
contribution that
the saxophone
family of
instruments has made to the
development of jazz music.
Helme spreads the net far and
wide from soprano to baritone,
from traditional to modern with
exponents such as Benny Golson,
Houston Person, Scott Hamilton
and Ken Peplowski. Jazz Alley with
Donald Helme is on RT lyric fm on
Wednesdays from 7pm-8pm.
Jazz
Documentary On One
The Documentary On
One is the multi award
winning documentary
strand fromRT Radio 1
(88-90FM). Currently
the most successful documentary unit
in the world with over 70 awards won
since 2009. The website contains over
1,000 radio documentaries all available
to listen/podcast. You can also
download the free Documentary on
One iPhone/Android app. The
featured documentary is Logan Way
The Story of the Bulgers. James
Whitey Bulger was second on the
FBIs most wanted list. Whiteys
younger brother Williamwent into
politics. In one of his frst interviews
Williamtalks about his political career,
his brother Whitey and why he wont
disown him. www.rte.ie/doconone
106 | october/november 2012
Opera Country
IrELAnDS PrEmIum
ProvIDEr oF SErvIcED
oFFIcE SPAcE AnD
conFErEncE FAcILITIES
Prestigious Locations in
Dublin and Belfast
expansion capacity from
1 - 50+ persons
support services
DUBLIN
BELFAST
www.glandore.ie
30 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 (Directly opposite Trinity College)
www.thesweatershop.ie | T. +353 1 671 2292
Best selection, quality &value
Beautiful classics at
reasonable prices
Vogue
@
Un peu de France sur Leeson Street Bridge!
Locat ed i n t he hear t of cul t ural
Dubl i n, Brasser i e l e Pont combi nes
comf or t, styl e and mouth water i ng
cui si ne wi th a vi brant atmosphere
and war m and attentive ser vi ce.
Brasserie Le Pont, 25 Fitzwilliam Place, Dublin 2
Tel: 01 6694600 | Email: info@brasserielepont.ie
Web: www.brasserielepont.ie
A Beautiful
French Brasserie
with an Irish
welcome!
OFFERING
n wine bar
n outdoor heated terrace
n stunning Georgian private dining
rooms (Capacity 70 people)
n live jazz music
n ideal venue for intimate dinners,
corporate entertainment, product
launches, weddings or anniversaries
A Lovely Gift
at any Time
Maximum
weight
10kg
(22 lbs)
Maximum
weight
7kg
(15 lbs)
(19ins)
(8ins) (13ins) (16ins)
(22ins)
(9ins)
Safety brief
We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures:
Please pay attention to any
instructions given to you by the
cabin crew.
Any behaviour towards a fellow
passenger or cabin crew that
is deemed to be threatening or
abusive (including the use of
ofensive language) is a serious
matter.
As our priority is the safety of
all passengers, it is important
not to interrupt the cabin
crew while they carry out their
duties, and not to interfere with
aircraft equipment.
As a service to passengers,
alcohol is served in the airport
lounges and on board. In the
interests of safety, Aer Lingus
may refuse to allow you board
if it is thought too much alcohol
has been consumed. While
the majority of passengers
are responsible, there have
occasionally been incidents
where intoxicated passengers
have caused serious safety
hazards. Passengers are
reminded also that during the
fight you may not consume
any alcohol brought onto the
aircraft by you or any other
passenger. The consumption
infight of Duty Free alcohol
purchased from the Sky
Shopping service is also
prohibited. This measure is,
again, necessary in the interests
of fight safety.
If incidents of this kind occur
during a fight, the cabin crew
is obliged to contact police on
arrival at your fnal destination.
The Aircraft Captain may also
divert the fight enroute in
order to remove disruptive
passengers. Should this
happen, Aer Lingus will not
be responsible for getting
you home, your ticket money
will not be refunded, and in
addition to the authorities
awaiting you on landing you
could be heavily fned and/or
be liable to a prison sentence.
In many cases, other airlines
may subsequently refuse to
allow you to fy with them.
We emphasise that while on
board the aircraft our priority
is your safety. As always, we
wish you a safe and enjoyable
fight, as well as a safe onward
journey.
Suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and well-being during your fight:
Wear loose-ftting clothes on board to
allow your skin to breathe, and apply a
good moisturiser throughout.
Stretch your legs as much as possible
by taking a stroll through the cabin.
Circle your ankles clockwise and anti-
clockwise. Bend and straighten your
ankles in a brisk manner with the knee
straight.
Trace the letters of the alphabet with
your foot by moving your ankles.
Exercising your feet and legs
periodically helps to reduce any
possible efects of long-duration travel.
Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same
position for too long and gently stretch
muscles to improve your circulation.
And remember to move your neck
and shoulders during long fights to
prevent stifness.
We wish you an enjoyable experience.
Reducing the efects
of jet-lag
To help reduce the efects of travelling
and jet-lag before, during and after
your fight, we have introduced
an audio programme (available on
Channel 6), which will play every other
hour, ofering 60 minutes of soothing
and relaxing audio environments. The
programme is designed to enhance
your physical and mental wellbeing
during the fight.
Apart from tuning in to the inflight
relaxation programme, here are
some other simple things that you
can do to prepare for your journey.
Ideally, avoid heavy food, alcohol,
tea or cofee the day before you
travel.
When you arrive at your
destination, try to adjust your
activities gradually to the new
time zone.
Mild exercise on arrival will also
help to stimulate your circulation.
Carry-on baggage
Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted
to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and
Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to
enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your fight:
In addition you may choose to carry on one of the
following, which must be placed under the seat in front:
Small ladies handbag/gents satchel
= 25cm (10) x 33cm (13) x 20cm (8)
OR
Duty Free shopping bag
as well as:
Baby-changing/food bag
Medical/assistive devices
EU security rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols
in cabin baggage apply. Flights departing the USA are
subject to TSA security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an
emergency exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.
Wellbeing
Passengers with
wheelchair requirements
Our priority is to always ensure
the safety and comfort of all
passengers. We encourage
passengers who may need
assistance to contact us well in advance of
their date of travel to enable us to assess
their needs.
If you are a wheelchair user or require
wheelchair assistance when travelling on
Aer Lingus services, please advise us of
your requirements at least 48 hours in
advance, quoting your booking reference
number. Our contact details are as follows:
email: specialassistance@aerlingus.com
Telephone:
(Ireland) 0818 365 011
08:00 - 18:00 Mon-Fri &
09:00 - 17:00 Sat & Sun
(UK) 0871 718 20 21
(Europe) + 353 1 886 8333
(USA) 516 622 4222
108 | october/november 2012
Looking after your skin
Reassuring your mind
Mole
Mapping
from
65
Book online or call us on
01 670 7070
www.mole.ie
50 Grafton Street, Dublin 2
Have your moles
checked by the experts at
The Mole Screening Clinic.
Great Care. Great Fare.
YOULL LIKE HOW WE DO BUSINESS
With unrivalled ight frequency, fantastic lounges in Dublin and Heathrow, exible tickets and allocated
seating, we take the stress out of business travel. Brilliance in Business just one of the many ways
Aer Lingus takes care of you.
To & From Dublin
Austria
Vienna
Brussels
Bourgas
Fuerteventura
Gran Canaria
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Croatia
Dubrovnik
Prague
Denmark
Copenhagen
(commencing 28th
October)
Finland
Helsinki
France
Bordeaux
Lyon
Marseille
Nice
Paris
Perpignan
Toulouse
Rennes
Berlin
Dusseldorf
Frankfurt
Hamburg
Munich
Stuttgart
Greece
Athens
Budapest
Ireland
Kerry
Bologna
Catania
Milan (Linate)
Milan (Malpensa)
Naples
Rome
Venice
Verona (new route)
Lithuania
Vilnius
The Netherlands
Amsterdam
Morocco
Agadir
Poland
Krakow
Warsaw
Faro
Lisbon
Romania
Bucharest
Alicante
Barcelona
Bilbao
Ibiza
Madrid
Malaga
Palma
Santiago de
Compostela
Sweden
Stockholm (new route)
Switzerland
Geneva
Zurich
Izmir
Birmingham
Edinburgh
London (Gatwick)
London (Heathrow)
Jersey
Manchester

Aberdeen
Blackpool
Bournemouth
Bristol
Cardif
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Isle of Man
London Southend
Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
RouteMaps
EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK
Athens
Ibiza
For more information on schedules, please visit www.aerlingus.com
Venice
Verona
Paris
Geneva
Lyon
Zurich
Munich
Frankfurt
Dusseldorf
Brussels
Amsterdam
Berlin
Prague
Krakow
Warsaw
Vilnius
Vienna
Budapest
Nice
Rome
Milan
LINATE
Milan
MALPENSA
Bucharest
Madrid
Alicante
Faro
Lisbon
Fuerteventura
Lanzarote
Gran
Canaria
Tenerife
Barcelona
Bordeaux
Helsinki
Naples
Catania
Bilbao
Palma
Izmir
Stockholm
Toulouse
Dubrovnik
DUBLIN
Aberdeen
Manchester
Isleof Man
Cardif
Bristol
London
HEATHRoW
Bournemouth
London
SouTHEND
Rennes
Marseille
London
GATWICK
|
Ve lan
To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon, Waterford & Gatwick
FROMBELFAST
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Faro
Alicante
Barcelona
Malaga
London Heathrow
London Gatwick
(new route commencing
28th October)
FROMCORK
Brussels (newroute)
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Las Palmas
France
Nice
Paris
Rennes
Munich
Rome
Faro
Lisbon
Alicante
Barcelona
Malaga
Palma
Switzerland
Geneva
The Netherlands
Amsterdam
London Gatwick
London Heathrow

Birmingham
Bristol
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Jersey
Manchester
FROMGATWICK
Ireland
Cork
Dublin
Ireland West Airport
(Knock)
FROMSHANNON
France
Rennes
London Heathrow

Birmingham
Bristol
Edinburgh
Manchester
FROMWATERFORD

London Luton
Manchester
London Southend
FROM KNOCK

Birmingham
London Gatwick
Routes terminate end of October
Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK
Jersey
London
Southend
Rennes
Nice
Luton
Las Palmas
SHANNON
CORK
WATERFORD
BELFAST
Knock
Dublin
Amsterdam
Munich
Barcelona
Alicante
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Rome
Paris
LONDON
GATWICK
London
Heathrow
Manchester
Bristol
Brussels
Faro
Lisbon
Palma
112 |
INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS
To & FromDublin, Shannon & Madrid
USA
Boston
Chicago
New York
Orlando
USA
Boston
New York
(Via NewYork/Boston
with JetBlue)
Chicago
Orlando
USA
Washington DC
New York
Boston
Dublin
Shannon
Madrid
USA ROUTE NETWORK
Orlando
october/november 2012
Vancouver
Edmonton
Burbank
San Jose
ChiCago
Saint Louis
Omaha
Dallas (Fort Worth)
Nashville
Atlanta
Orlando
SanJuan
Ponce
Washington
DuLLES
Fort Lauderdale
West PalmBeach
neWYork
Boston
Toronto
Bufalo
Detroit
Cleveland
Rochester
Columbus
Cincinnati
PortlandME
Nantucket
Seattle
PortlandOR
Denver
Sacramento
San Francisco
Oakland
Phoenix
Austin
Houston
NewOrleans
Jacksonville
Tampa
Miami
Charlotte
Louisville
Richmond
ach
uis
Cincinna
Lex
Ra
on
Pi
Ro
Ri
Washington
NATIONAL
Baltimore
Wa
Po
FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEWYORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO
new destinations with aer
Lingus, in partnership with
JetBlue, United airlines and
aer arann
Getting to the uS from
destinations throughout
Europe has never been easier.
Now uS, Irish and European
based customers can book
a single low fare reservation
between Ireland, Europe and
a wide range of continental uS
destinations using JFK New
York, Boston and Chicago as
stopovers.
By choosing to fy to the
united States via Dublin and
Shannon with Aer Lingus,
passengers can avail of united
States Customs and Immigration
Pre-clearance facilities at
Terminal 2, Dublin airport.
This facility allows passengers
travelling on the majority of
uS bound fights to clear uS
immigration and customs before
departing Dublin and Shannon.
Customers arrive in the uS
without any further processing
requirement allowing for a
seamless transfer to their fnal
destination.
neW York
Connecting with JetBlue at
JFk:
When you arrive from Dublin or
Shannon, simply hop on the Air
Train to JetBlues Terminal 5 for
your domestic connection.
Passengers travelling from
the uS to Ireland and Europe
will be able to check in bags at
the JetBlue domestic departure
point and then pick them up
again in Shannon or Dublin.
Boston
Connecting with JetBlue at
Boston Logan international
airport:
When you arrive from Dublin
or Shannon, proceed directly
to Terminal C for your JetBlue
domestic departure.
Passengers travelling from
the uS to Ireland and Europe
will be able to check in bags at
the JetBlue departure point
and then pick them up again in
Shannon or Dublin.
ChiCago
Connecting with United
airlines at ohare Chicago
international airport:
On arrival at Terminal Five from
Dublin or Shannon, make your
way to the nearby ATS (Airport
Transit System), which runs
every four minutes to your uA
domestic departure point.
Passengers from the uS to
Ireland and Europe can check in
bags at the uA departure point,
then exit security in Chicago
OHare to take the Airport
Transit System to Terminal
Five for the onward Aer Lingus
fight, and pick up their bags in
Shannon or Dublin.
DUBLin
Connecting with aer Lingus
regional (operated by Aer
Arann) at Dublin airport:
Aer Linguss interline agreement
with Aer Arann allows
passengers connect to Aer
Lingus transatlantic fights via
Dublin Airport, where they can
through check their luggage
directly to their fnal uS
destination.
All routes correct at time of going to press
CONNECTINGEUROPE, USA & CANADA
114 | october/november 2012
inFLight ROUTE MAPS
Milan
LINATE
London
HEATHrow
London
GATwIck
Dublin
Shannon
kerry
Lisbon
Faro
Malaga
Alicante
Barcelona
Palma
Madrid
Geneva
krakow
Naples
rome
Venice
Dubrovnik
warsaw
Glasgow
Edinburgh
Bristol
London
SouTHEND
Dusseldorf
Amsterdam
Brussels
Paris
Manchester
Isle of Man
Birmingham
Frankfurt
Berlin
Hamburg
Stockholm
Helsinki
Munich Vienna
cardif
Via Dublin
with aer lingus
Alicante
Amsterdam
Barcelona
Berlin
Birmingham
Brussels
Dubrovnik
Dusseldorf
Edinburgh
Faro
Frankfurt
Geneva
Hamburg
Helsinki
krakow
Lisbon
London (Gatwick)
London (Heathrow)
Madrid
Malaga
Manchester
Munich
Palma
Paris
rome
Stockholm
Venice
Vienna
warsaw
Via Dublin
with aer lingus Regional
Bristol
cardif
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Isle of Man
London Southend
kerry
Via Shannon
with aer lingus
London (Heathrow)
Via Shannon
with aer lingus Regional
Manchester
Birmingham
Bristol
Edinburgh
Via newYoRk
with Jetblue
Aguadilla
Austin
Baltimore
Bufalo
Burbank
Burlington
charlotte
chicago
Denver
Fort Lauderdale
Fort Myers
Houston
Jacksonville
Las Vegas
Long Beach
Los Angeles
Nantucket
New orleans
oakland
orlando
Phoenix
Pittsburg
Ponce
Portland ME
Portland or
raleigh-Durham
rochester
Sacramento
Salt Lake city
San Diego
San Francisco
San Jose
San Juan
Seattle
Syracuse
Tampa
west Palm Beach
Via boSton
with Jetblue
Baltimore
Bufalo
chicago
Dallas Fort worth
Denver
Ford Lauderdale
Fort Myers
Jacksonville
Las Vegas
Long Beach
Los Angeles
Nantucket
New orleans
oakland
orlando
Phoenix
Pittsburg
Portland or
raleigh-Durham
richmond
Salt Lake city
San Diego
San Francisco
San Jose
San Juan
Seattle
Tampa
washington (Dulles)
washington
(National)
west Palm Beach
Via ChiCago
with united to uSa
Atlanta
Austin
charlotte
cincinnati
chicago
cleveland
columbus
Dallas (Fort worth)
Denver
Detroit
Houston
Indianapolis
Jacksonville
kansas city
Las Vegas
Lexington
Los Angeles
Louisville
Miami
Minneapolis
Nantucket
Nashville
New orleans
omaha
Phoenix
Pittsburgh
Portland or
raleigh-Durham
Sacramento
Salt Lake city
San Diego
San Francisco
San Jose
Seattle
St Louis
Tampa
Via ChiCago
with united to Canada
calgary
Edmonton
Salt Lake city
Toronto
Vancouver
winnipeg
Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
| 115
116 | october/november 2012
Connecting at Heathrow Airport
Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to
the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes.
Please disembark From THe BACK oF THe airCraFT iF:
You are an international connecting passenger and all your
luggage* is checked through to your final destination
*Pushchairs checked to London can be collected
from the back of the aircraft
Please disembark From THe FRONT oF THe airCraFT iF:
london is your final destination
Your onward connection is to a domestic Uk airport
Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow
You would like to leave the airport between flights
You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance
CONNECTINGTOANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT
FLIGHTS ARRIvINGAT TERmINAL 2
If you already have a boarding card for your
connecting fight, and your baggage has been
tagged to your fnal destination, simply follow the
sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which
you will see on your left hand side as you enter
the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you
will proceed to Immigration and Security Check.
After clearing these points, check the information
screens and proceed to your boarding gate.
If your baggage has not been tagged to your
final destination you must clear Immigration,
enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your
bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed
to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level.
Once you have reached the departures level,
check the information screens for your onward
flight information, and proceed as directed to
the appropriate check-in desk.
If you have any queries, or need further
assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight
Connections Desk, which is located in the
baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our
staff will be glad to help.
Please note: eU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin airport
Aer Lingus
Flight
Connections
Desk
Immigration
Immigration
Security
Check
Escalator
to Gates
401 - 426
Lifts
to Gates
401 - 426
Terminal 2
Arrivals
To Gates 100s -
300s
Arrivals Route to
Baggage Reclaim
from Gates 400s
FLIGhT ConnECTIonS
Connecting fight departs
Gates 100s - 300s
FLIGhT ConnECTIonS
Connecting fight departs
Gates 401 - 426
FlightConnections
(Irish Rail)
in association with
Fi rst Cl ass!
Book Today - Travel Tomorrow

ONE DAY TOURS TO


NINE DAY TOURS FROM
DUBLIN
Car Free - Care Free
www.railtoursireland.com
+ 353-1-856 0045
e-mail:
info@railtoursireland.com
Blarney Castle
and Gardens
kl:IA AIll lllAl lllk :WAVAllAlll
American
Restaurant & Bar
BLANCHARDSTOWN CENTRE
Dublin 15. Tel: 01 822 5990
ST STEPHENS GREEN
Dublin 2. Tel: 01 478 1233
TEMPLE BAR
Fleet St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 672 8975
DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE
Tel: 01 298 7299
SWORDS
Airside, Swords, Co Dublin
Tel: 01 840 8525
BELFAST
Level 2, Victoria Square,
Tel: 028 9024 9050
www.fridays.ie
A FREE APPETISER
for one with a main
course purchased
on production of
your boarding pass
Terms and conditions apply
wagamama ireland
south king st | blanchardstown | dundrum | cork | belfast
delicious noodles
rice dishes
freshly squeezed juices
wine
sake
japanese beers
lunch menu 9.95
take out menu available
with over 135 cafes around the world, theres always
something happening at the hard rock.
12 Fleet Street Temple Bar Dublin 2 Tel: 671 7777 hardrock.com
tm
1916
The GPO Dublin
Liberty in Dublins GPO and
uncover the story of the
Rising and the Irish Post
Office in the place where
history was made.
General Post Office
OConnell Street
Dublin 1
www.anpost.ie/heritage
Lvenlng and Saturday courses
Dressmaklng mornlng courses
6 Herbert P|ace, Dub|ln 2
Te|:+353 16763653 / 676794O
Lmal|: ln|o@gra|tonacademy.com
www.graftonacademy.com
||O||SS|O|/| |/SH|O| L|S|C| L|||OM/
3 yoas |u||-t|oo)
|o t|o ||s| 8 |otooat|ooa| C|ot||o Taoo
8 /ssoc|atoo |ooust|os.
+ o 3 ooot| t|a| |as||oo
oos|o cousos |o caoo 8 ooucat|ooa| boa|s
Soot-May. /|so suooo |o||oay oay cousos |o
|as||oo oos|o o oossoa||o.
GRAFTON ACADEMY
OF DRE55 DE5lGNlNG
74 YLAPS OP CPLAT| v| TY
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Michelin Bib Gourmand
Enjoy the elegant chypre fragrance of Miss Dior in this new
fresh and luminous version with its blend of bergamot and
gardenia against base notes of patchouli.
Naked2 by Urban Decay
A taupe-centric palette of twelve neutral shadows (fve brand new)
in shades ranging from pale to deep, matt to sparkly. More beige
in overall tone than their frst Naked palette, this collection still
delivers subtle, neutral looks, smoky dramatic eyes and everything
in between.
Spicebombby Viktor & Rolf
Eau de Toilette - 50ml
Spicebomb is the new masculine fragrance
from Viktor & Rolf. Electrifying, captivating
and fearless. He doesnt just explode he
goes boom. Spicebomb ofers a highly
addictive explosion of spices, tamed by an
invigorating freshness. This new fragrance
is the weapon of mass seduction!
A unique souf texture originally created for the
medical profession and recommended by plastic
surgeons and dermatologists. It will improve the
look of multiple skincare concerns including fne
lines, rough texture and dehydration. A drink of
water for your skin.
with FREE key-ring
Aer Lingus fun plane with realistic engine sounds and fashing
lights. It comes complete with batteries for hours of fun. Also
included is a FREE gift of a miniature plane key-ring.
118 | october/november 2012
INFLIGHT SKY SHOPPING
Skagen Black Leather
Strap Mens Watch
Genuine style. This mens watch with a black
leather strap connects to a brushed stainless
steel case. The shiny black dial features twelve
chrome and white luminous numbered indicators,
a 24-hour dial and date function.
Scents of Ireland Luxury Candles
by Tipperary Crystal
These luxury scented candles are made in Ireland using luxury fragrances
that evoke memories of Ireland. This charming gift box contains two
wonderfully natural scented candles. The Mourne Memories candle
has a fresh, clean mountain air scent while the Sligo
Shores candle will bring back memories of the
wild Atlantic shore to your mind. Also
contains two picture postcards.
Skagen Silver Mesh
Strap Womens
Watch
Stainless steel appeal. Signature
Skagen silver mesh bands connect
to a slim stainless steel IP gold
case with gold border. The vertically
brushed chrome dial features twelve
indicators made with CRYSTALLIZED
Swarovski elements.
Shamballa Bracelet with Crystals
and Natural Stones byAeon
This high-quality Aeon unisex crystal and natural stone
beaded bracelet is part of a growing trend in jewellery that
incorporates the healing properties of natural stones into
fashion jewellery design. The crystals have always been a
renowned symbol of peace, tranquillity and happiness. The
fully adjustable 18cm to 23cm bracelet comes
presented in an Aeon organza pouch.
Pleasecheckyour
SkyShopping
brochurefor
all prices
Sky Shopping
Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing quality
items at reduced prices onboard during October/November.
Storm Husky Puppy
Stormis a super-soft Husky that will
always be ready for a cuddle! A
beautiful puppy that will bring a
smile to his newowner.
ng
october/november 2012 | 119
trip of a lifetime
120 | october/november 2012
me appeared heightened the umber
of the dirt, the red of the barn, the
yellow of the tractor in the feld,
were all more vivid than normal,
their edges more sharply defned. I
heard birds call and respond. I grew
conscious of my breathing, slow and
rhythmic. In a moment of clarity
I had done nothing to consciously
summon, I became suddenly aware
of something that I had known my
whole life. It disclosed itself to me
with the simplicity of the absolute. I
realised there wasnt
something in my
character I lacked
as I had feared but
something I had an
overabundance of,
something that had
dictated so many of
my actions without
my awareness, that
had been behind so
many decisions, and
obscured so much
judgment. Fear, I saw
in that moment, had
ruled my life. And the
vulnerability between
my shoulders was the space that had
been created when the weight of that
domineering, life-directing, decision-
making fear had been temporarily
relieved. It was in that experience of
its frst absence, when fear began to
lose its all-pervading hold over me.
Te next two weeks went by in a
blaze. Every step brought me deeper
into sync with the universe. I arrived
at my chosen location just before
a downpour; I slept in and missed
the pack of wild dogs that terrorised
the early walkers; I grew physically
stronger each day and, by the time I
strode into Santiago in late July, I felt
the way I had always wanted to feel
but never quite did.
During an accidental moment
under a hot sun in the rural north of
Spain I was cracked open and given a
glimpse of how I might be able to live
a diferent life from the one that had
been leading me and nothing has
been the same since.
AndrewMcCarthys memoir, The Longest
Way Home (Simon &Schuster, 10.99) is
out now.
I
was on my knees. Sobbing. In the
middle of northern Spain, halfway
into an 800 kilometre walk along
the Way of Saint James, bound
for Santiago de Compostela, I was
exhausted, tapped out, reduced to
a weeping mess. I shook my fsts
at the heavens and cursed whatever
God it was I half believed in. Tis
was not the triumphant march
across the Iberian Peninsula I had
intended. But it wasnt just the walk
although it had been a miserable
few weeks of blisters, bad beds
and loneliness. Unwittingly, I had
attached metaphorical signifcance to
my trudge. It had grown to represent
the journey of my life so far and on
parched ground under a blistering
sun, the symbolic meaning I read into
my present condition was not good. I
seemed to lack some innate thing that
living demanded. How could I have
come so far, only to end up like this?
I sat back on my heels, my tears
subsided, my breathing slowed. Alone
in a feld of scraggly wheat that
stretched to the horizon, the space
between my shoulder blades felt
exposed and vulnerable. I re-hoisted
my backpack, found my walking stick
hurled aside in my tantrum and
shufed on.
At the next village, the dusty
town of Castrojeriz, I found a room
above a bar and fell into a heavy
sleep. Te next morning I set out
again. Te air had a softness the day
would devour, but hadnt yet. Te
sky was without clouds. Te space
between my shoulders still carried a
sense of frailty, yet my pack seemed
to rest easier on my back. After an
hour I stopped beside a barn to drink
water and noticed my senses seemed
unusually keen. Te colours around
Pilgrim spirit,
top, on the road
to Santiago de
Compostela;
above, 1980s
heart-throb
Andrew McCarthy,
all grown up.
Into the
light light
Santiago de Compostela, Brat Pack actor and travel
writer AndrewMcCarthy has a life-changing revelation.
trip of a lifetime
with the simplicity
re
so
ch
as
so
ov
some
dict
my
my
had
many
obsc
judgm
in that
ruled
vulner
050912 CARA_HTZ1.indd 2 06/09/2012 15:28
O2 - 7867-20 Cara Business_OTL.indd 1 9/17/12 2:32 PM

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