This is my very first attempt to write blogs about my travels.

I would very much appreciate it if you could give me your comments on my write-up of the trip to Kayah State, Myanmar/ Burma that I recently took with a friend of mine called Thurein, a fellow tour guide. We both live in Yangon, the largest city and main international gateway in Myanmar but lead tours throughout the country. We wanted to take the trip in early June 2013 but since we also wanted to explore the few areas of Southern Shan State, where we had not been to yet, we decided to begin with a little-known trekking route that runs through the hills to the east of Inle Lake (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inle_Lake ) and go by boat down the lake from north to the south. But we had to put off our trip by about a week because the water level in the southern part of the lake went down so badly that it became impossible to navigate. When we heard from our local friends about the water level rising high enough with rains, we set out on our journey. We took an overnight bus that left Yangon at about 5.30 p.m on the 14th of June 2013 and reached Taunggyi shortly before 6.00 a.m the next morning. Upon arrival we checked into the hotel and slept away the tiredness of the bus ride till midday. Although the raining season has set in, we were extremely lucky with the weather, which was cloudy with occasional drizzles but not really downpours. Until about 20 years ago Taunggyi used to be the only place in Shan State where international tourists were allowed to stay overnight at the only hotel in town, which was government-owned. In those days they were allowed to visit Burma only by buying packaged tours from the only tour company, which of course was owned by the then government. Although Taunggyi is the capital of Shan State and is a charming town with various ethnic groups and famous for its colourful market, its days as an overnight stop for tourists were over as almost all tourists now stay on the lake or its shores where private hotels have mushroomed. Here are photos of Taunggyi and its market:

Top to bottom clockwise - Taunggyi and its market

When we woke up we wanted to explore Taunggyi a little as we had not been to this town often since it is now largely out of tourists routes. We went to the market, strolled around the town center and had the famous dumplings for lunch.

Afterwards I called my friends in Taunggyi, for whom I brought along some parcels from their relatives who live in Yangon. Then my friends took us to a local wine bar on the outskirts of the town. I was amazed to see how popular the place was with the local people especially with young people. When I tasted the local wine I was surprised that it was quite nice not as sweet as some other local brands that I had tried before. After making arrangements for the next day we came back to the hotel. The next day after breakfast we left Taunggyi by car. My friend, Ko Gyi, drove us to Kakku, a famous pagoda complex in Shan State. Actually it is located in the territory of PaO people, one of the many minority ethnic groups in Shan State, who had been fighting against the government forces until early 90s. Even now tourists who want to venture into this area are required to get a permit and hire a PaO tour guide. I had been there a few times before with my international guests on day trips from Inle Lake but my friend, Thurein, had never been there before. We drove past small villages and colourful fields cultivated with maze, corn, beans, garlic and ginger. It took us more than one hour to reach Kakku although it is only 28 miles from Taunggyi but we enjoyed the scenic ride. Ko Gyi is a very good driver, who expertly avoided so many potholes and dodged passing vehicles. When we arrived at Kakku, Ko Gyi parked the car in front of his favourite restaurant outside the pagoda complex. He had been there countless times as he lives in Taunggyi. So he stayed at the restaurant while we went ahead to visit the wonderful pagoda complex of Kakku, which consists of about 2500 stupas dating back to the 16th century. The stupas are decorated with various kinds of stucco figures like mythical and celestial beings, and floral motifs. Some of them remain in good condition while others have been largely renovated but one could easily tell which is original and which is restored.

Pa O woman selling her fares Kakku Pagoda Forest in the background (Top) The myraids of stupas (Bottom)

After our visit to the site, we had lunch at the restaurant. Of course we wanted to try the local foods so we ordered some tofu salads, fried chayote leaves with soy beans pickled. It was a delicious meal. After our lunch it began to rain and unfortunately we couldnt wait since we had a trek ahead. So we set off in the rain, backtracked a few miles and went off the main road on our way to Naungkhe, a PaO village, where we were to start the trekking. By now Ko Gyi was full of

worries as he heard from a friend in Taunggyi that authorities had begun confiscating illegal cars in town. In Myanmar cars are more expensive than our neighbouring countries by about 400% thanks to our governments clever policies so some people smuggle cars in and they have to bribe officials numerous check-points along the way. But those authorities confiscate those illegal cars from time to time to show that they are cracking down on them. How ironical it is! Without their complicity through various channels of subordinate groups those illegal cars would never have been able to come in but this is Myanmar seemingly undergoing reforms. When we reached Naungkhe the rain had subsided quite a bit, Ko Gyi left worrying about his car and we kept our fingers crossed that he would escape (as soon as we got down to the lake where we could use the mobile phones again, we called him and were so relieved that he did escape without having to bribe again). Then we began our trek. From the village of Naugnkhe to Htine our trek was uphill almost all the way with really steep slopes at some points. We passed by fields of gingers and Tha-nat-phet or cheroot leaves of sebestan trees, which is one of the main cash crops of PaO people among others. Htine is a village of PaO people. It has about 100 households. It is about 4500 feet above sea level (approximately as we had no means of knowing the exact altitude). It took us nearly one hour to reach Htine from Naungkhe although the distance is about 2 miles or so as it was mostly uphill all the way.

(Top-bottom clockwise) The Village of Hti Ne, Cheroot leaf plantation, Pa O kids, Pa O lady in her traditional attire

We did not stop at Htine but continued with our trek. From there our trek was mostly downhill as we descended toward Inle Lake. The scenery was great.

View from the hills (Top) - Moe on hike (Bottom)

We passed by more fields of crops and small villages. We were very lucky indeed with the weather as it never really rained but drizzled only sometimes as we hiked. When we reached the village of Nampan it was 6 p.m. We took a little more than 4 hours to cover the approximate distance of 12 miles as our trek was mostly downhill. It usually takes about 6 hours to do it in reserve. As this trekking route is not so well-known as those around Kalaw, not many tourists have done it yet although it is an equally interesting a route. At Nampan we collected our baggage, which we sent by a truck of public transportation from Taunggyi and headed down to the jetty where we boarded the awaiting boat, which we had rented in advance and transferred to the hotel near the most celebrated shrine of the region called Phaungdawoo Pagoda. Every year in October this pagoda holds its annual festival, which lasts 18 days, when four of its highly venerated five Buddha images travel on a splendidly decorated holy barge towed by long boats rowed by about a hundred men on each with their legs. The barge sojourns at major villages spending a night at each one thus blessing it and its people. It is a very colourful and joyous affair which attracts pilgrims from all over the country. If you plan to come to Myanmar in October, I could highly recommend that you plan to coincide with this festival while visiting Myanmar. Please note, however, that the dates vary each year based on their lunar calendar. Should you wish to find out exact dates upcoming festival this year, feel free to write to info@careandsharemyanmartravels.com.

Phaungdawoo Pagoda in the morning calm

Although during the day the pagoda is busy with pilgrims from all over the country as well as tourists, at dusk it is already quite deserted and is closed at night. We could go nowhere at night there as it was a small village and everybody goes to bed rather early. We had a restful and relaxing dinner at our lodge and we were the only diners. Then we also did as Inthars did while on Inle Lake we went to bed! Notwithstanding our many visits to Inle Lake, to be honest, it was the first time we came here without tourists so we decided to explore some villages which are not normally covered in standard tour itineraries. So the next day after a leisurely breakfast, we went to visit a village called Thang Taung on the western shore of the lake. We walked across rice fields as the village was on solid land but its houses are still on stilts. The villagers were curious as to why we were there. We were invited to a home and entertained with local tea and tealeaf salads, which complement each other and are very popular snacks offered to visitors in most places in Myanmar.

The Village of Thang Taung, Inle Lake, Myanmar

In the late afternoon we came back to our lodge, took a rest and shower. Then we walked to a village, which was just beyond the pagoda. To our surprise we found a few little pubs where we decided to have our dinner and mingled a bit with the locals. After that we returned to our lodge and slept. The next day as I woke up early in the morning I decided to go for a walk. I went towards the rice fields and saw an eel catcher who was trying to locate the eel traps that he laid the previous night. There were no making of any sort in the rice field and yet he was able to spot all the traps he laid and picked them up. I asked him how many traps he lays every night and he said a hundred. He also told me that he earns on average 10, 000 Kyats a day (a little more than USD10 approximately).

Eel catchers with their catch (Top) - Trying to spot his traps and picking them up (Bottom left to right)

Our boatman came to pick us up at 10 a.m and transferred us to a jetty where the public boat that runs from Nyaungshwe to Phekhon, northern and southern end of the lake respectively. We bought our tickets at the jetty and at 11.00 a.m the boat came. We were impressed with its punctuality. We boarded the boat with other passengers. And then we set off on our southward journey. The boat made several stops along the way to drop off and pick up passengers. As we cruised down we noticed that the landscape and scenery changed - the vast lake in the north becomes narrower and narrower with bamboo groves and fields of crops onshore along the way. At some points the water level was so low and the boat got stuck on sandbanks that they had to push it down as seen in the picture below.

On the boat to Phekhone

As we came closer and closer to the southern end of the lake, the water surface becomes wider and wider again. In fact it was like another lake in its own right connected to its northern sister via a long stream. Local people call it Phekhon Inn (Phekhon Lake), which is about 20 miles long north-south direction and about 6 miles wide east-west.

Another sea on land at the average altitude of 3000' above sea level (Top) Khun Hla Maung chatting with Thurein by his illegal car (Bottom left) Our most hospitable friend Khun Hla Maung.

We arrived at the town of Phekhon at about 5.30 p.m and were met by our friend, Khoo Hla Maung, another fellow tour guide. He belongs to Kayan ethnic group whose ladies are famous for wearing brass rings around their long necks. He lives in Loikaw with his family, which is about 45-minute drive from Phekhon. He came by his illegal car to pick us up from the jetty. He took us to his uncles home where we were given accommodation in a two-bedded room with a bath room attached. We were so thankful for his arrangement. The house perches on the edge of the lake, overlooking it and commanding a great view. The family has an unusual pet a peacock chick, which kept chirping all the time. And it liked to stay close to people. The people there believe that it brings good luck to keep peacocks as pets. So this family bought 3 of them each costing about USD50. Now two of them were dead and only one remained.

View from the terrace of the house where we stayed (Top) - The house (Bottom left) - Thurein, hotsting coouple, and me (Moe) in front of the house (Bottom right)

Although the town of Phekhon has nothing special to offer in terms of tourist attractions except for the lake itself, we decided to stay one more night there as Thurein wanted to meet the family of his brothers mother -in-law, who live in that town. His brother fled to Thailand after 1988 uprising in Myanmar, stayed at a border town, met with a Kayan girl and married her. Now they live in the United States. The next day we left Phekhon for Loikaw, the capital of Kayah State. It was only about 45 minute drive. On the way Khun Hla Maung stopped at a village to visit a relative. It is called Kuntha and the people there are of Kayan ethnic group, and most of them are Catholic.

Church of Kuntha (Top) - Khun Hla Maung and his relatives (Bottom left) - A paddler on motorbike (Bottom right)

Khun Hla Maung asked for some traditional rice wine from his relatives and offered to us at his home when we got to Loikaw. We had lunch at his house first and then went to check into our guest house. In the afternoon we visited a prominent monastery in Loikaw, which was converted from an old house of Sawbaw, a local governor. The authority were going to demolish the building as it belonged to an ethnic leader, but the towns folk managed to convert it into a

monastery
(Clockwise from top left) Khun Hla Maung's home, The monastery, Moe sampling traditional wine, a nice street in Loikaw its iconic pagoda in the background

in time so authority did not demolish it. (Clockwise from top left) Khun Hla Maung's home, Loikaw Monastery, Moe sampling traditional rice wine and street of Loikaw with its famous Kyauk Kwe Pagoda in the background. In the evening Khun Hla Maung told us that a friend of his, who is a high ranking officer in Karenni National Libration Army, a former rebel group fighting the central government for autonomy, was going to their headquarter for an annual meeting and if we were interested we could come along too. Of course we were interested and were assured of our safety and security as they have now stopped fighting with the government forces. So we decided to take the opportunity. The next day we set out on our journey to Shartaw, where the freedom fighters have their headquarters. It was in a very remote location close to Myanmar-Thai border and we had to use a 4x4 vehicle to tackle the rough and mountainous roads. There were 6 of us three friends of us, the officer, his bodyguard and the driver. As I sat in the back of the front cabin I noticed that next to me was sitting a rebel in his camouflage uniform holding an assault rifle, I did feel a little uncomfortable.

Clockwise from top left - Me sitting next to a rebel fighter, View of Shartaw and our group

It took us about 3 hours to reach Shartaw where we arrived by noon. After lunch we wanted to go to Thanlwin River, which is one of the longest rivers in Asia 1749 miles, which originates in China and flows through Thailand and Myanmar emptying into Adman sea. It was only 9 miles away from Shartaw but it took us about 40 minutes on even rougher roads. We passed by a few villages inhabited by Shan people. When we reached the bank we found some big chunks of wood. When we inquired we were told that those pieces were cut from rose wood trees but they were not ordinary timber. They were the kind of outgrowth from trunks. They do not grow into branches but become round bumps, in which the wood is much harder than normal and has beautiful and intriguing grains. We were told that they are being exported to China, where the wood is carved into beautiful statues and figurines.

(Clockwise from top left) A typical Shan house, bumps of rose wooe, passing a stream on the road, and 3 friends of us on the bank of Thanlwin River

It was dusk by the time we got back to Shartaw. We had dinner at a local home. They were extremely friendly and hospitable like all other minority tribes we met along the way. The next day we were invited to attend the meeting of various freedom fighters groups and were delighted to hear them talk about peace with the government and each other, and also how they would like to engage in development works in the region such as infrastructure, healthcare, education etc. They were also happy that we got a chance to listen to their talks. I

must admit that it was so easy to get along with them than most government officials that I know in town. They even let us wear their uniforms, hold their guns and pose for pictures.

(Clockwise from top left to bottom) Group Photo with some freedom fighters, me with a friendly rebel, friends posing for pictures, Threin and me attending the meeting.

The meeting was followed by a feast where many people including villagers were invited. Then it was time for us to leave. We cramped ourselves into the 4x4 Land Cruiser and backed tracked to Loikaw. We stayed overnight there. The next morning we left Loikaw for Panpet, a village track of Padaung People renowned for their long-necked ladies, who wear brass rings around their necks. They believe that they were descended from the marriage of a dragon lady and a zawgyi, an accomplished alchemist. So by wearing multiple brass rings and a sort of headdress the ladies believe they look like their ancestral mother and beautiful. As a matter of fact, Panpet was our principal destination as we had never been there since few tourists were prepared to go through the complex and uncertain process of applying for special permits to visit the place. In fact, most people in the world, who heard or read about them think that they are from Thailand whilst the truth is they (Padaung people), due to constant insecurity as a result fighting between the government forces and freedom fighters, fled their homeland and went over to Thailand as refugees. The Thais were quick to realize that instead of being a burden, they could become a source of

income, for tourism in Thailand was experiencing such a boom. Soon enough the Padaung people were allowed to build their villages and settle down, and every tourist curious enough to see the long-necked ladies has to pay a fee to visit their villages. Many tourists have been flocking there since then. Now perhaps as part of the changes being introduced in Myanmar and also because most of the freedom fighters have come to a cease fire agreement of sort with the government , the area has been opened to tourism and permits are no longer required for tourists to visit it. That is why we decided to go and see it for ourselves before we bring tourists there. Actually Panpet is just a little over an hour drive from Loikaw but we had to leave early as we did not want to be disturbed by the official confiscating squads of the illegal cars. We thought we would spend the extra time climbing a mountain on the way but then it began to rain and it would not be fun to tread on the muddy and slippery trails up and down the mountain. So we decided to go a little further along the main road. After about one and a half hour of driving we came to a village called Lobokho. It was a Sunday and the villagers, Kayan tribe and Baptists, were going to church in their Sunday raiment. So we decided to pay a visit to the village. We went along with the villagers, who were extremely friendly and soon they were inviting us to their homes. We ended up taking a rest at one of their homes where the family immediately set about cooking our lunch, which was delicious and we eat it with relish. This impromptu host family had more in store for us as after lunch the husband offered to let us try his home-made rifle, which is very common and every household has one or two of them as one of their favourite pastime is hunting. Hereunder is a picture of the amazing host family we photographed together with us.

After such an unexpected great we thankfully bade farewell to our hosts, we drove to Panpet, which was about 45-minute drive it would have been faster if we drove a 4x4 but we had a little Honda Fit. Our friend Khun Hla Maung has a friend in Panpet and his home was our lodge. He ran a small store in the village. He asked us to leave our luggage at his place and explore the village. Soon after we strolled into the village we began see the longnecked ladies going about their chores. And we were fortunate enough to catch up with the last part of a wedding ceremony. Although the bride and groom already left, there was still a gathering of villagers still perfectly in their party mood. No sooner had they seen us than they began to offer us their favourite drink the traditional rice wine, which has a very small percentage of alcohol and tasted quite nice. Here is the picture of us with the lovely long-necked ladies, who are better known as Padaung in our country.

We spent a night there and the next day early in the morning again we left for Loikaw where we spent one more night and made our way home. It was one of the most memorable journeys I have ever taken.