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Choose a soft machine washable yarn for this cardigan: I used Drops Karisma for a warmer autumn/winter layer, but choose a cotton/wool blend for a lighter spring cardigan or a luxury silk/wool blend for a special occasion. The lace will get lost in a variegated yarn, so chose a solid or tonal colourway.
It is important that this dress is able to be blocked to open up the lace yoke, so choose a yarn with natural fibres: ideally a 100% wool or merino yarn, or a wool blend. Choose a machine washable yarn for maximum enjoyment for the parents Note that the prem size is knit in fingering weight yarn, the nb and 3m sizes are in sport weight yarn, while the rest are in DK weight. The lace will get lost in a variegated yarn, so chose a solid or tonal colourway.
Sport weight yarn: 3.25mm/US#3 circular needles and dpns (or preferred method for working small circumferences) or size required to reach gauge 60cm/24 or 80cm/32 long 3mm/US#2.5 circular needles and dpns or one size smaller than required to reach gauge 60cm/24 or 80cm/32 long. DK weight yarn: 4mm/US#6 circular needles and dpns (or preferred method for working small circumferences) or size required to reach gauge 60cm/24 or 80cm/32 long; 3.75mm/US#5 circular needles and dpns or one size smaller than required to reach gauge 60cm/24 or 80cm/32 long. You will also need: Up to 14 stitch markers; Waste yarn; 1.5cm(5/8) buttons and coordinating sewing thread: o prem 3m sizes: 3 buttons o 6m 18m sizes: 4 buttons o 2y 6y sizes: 5 buttons
Gauge:
In stocking stitch and with larger needles: 27sts and 36rows to 10cm/4 for fingering weight; 25sts and 32rows to 10cm/4 for sport weight; 22sts and 28rows to 10cm/4 for DK weight; Remember to check your gauge both flat and in the round as your gauge may change when there are no more purl rows so you may find you need to use two sets of needle sizes.
Cast On:
Using long-tail cast on and smaller needles, cast on 65,65,65,65,(65,77,77,83),83,83,83,89sts (R1 is incorporated in the cast on). Work an 8 row moss (US=seed) stitch neckline as follows, remembering to end with a WS row. R2 (WS): sl1 with the yarn held at back, [k1, p1] to end of row. R3 (RS): sl1 with the yarn held at back, [k1, p1] to end of row. R4, R6 & R8: as for R2. R5: sl1, [k1, p1] to last 4sts, k1, yo, k2tog, p1. R7: as for R3. Change to larger needles: R9: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, pm, k1, pm, [yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k1, pm] 9,9,9,9,(9,11,11,12),12,12,12,13 times, [p1, k1] twice, p1. R10 and all WS rows: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, p to 5sts, [p1, k1] twice, p1. Slipping all markers as you reach them, continue working rows 11 32 of the chart on page 10, or follow the written instructions below, remembering to finish with a WS row and to work the buttonholes where indicated.
Buttonholes are made in the following method: (RS): work row as set to the last 5sts, p1, k1, yo, k2tog, p1. Work the buttonholes on the following rows, with the final buttonhole being worked in the moss (US=seed) stitch band, in the Body section: prem - 5 & 25 18m - 5, 19 & 33 nb - 5 & 25 2y - 5, 17, 29 & 41 3m - 5 & 25 3y - 5, 17, 29 & 41 6m - 5, 19 & 33 4y - 5, 17, 29 & 41 9m - 5, 19 & 33 5y - 5, 19, 33 & 47 12m - 5, 19 & 33 6y - 5, 19, 33 & 47
Raglan Increases:
Sizes prem 9m: R33: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, removing all but the first and last markers as you reach them, k28, (k1,yo,k1) into one stitch, (this should line up with the points of the petals in the lace), k8, (k1,yo,k1) into one stitch (this should line up with the double increases in the lace), k8, (k1,yo,k1), k71, [(k1,yo,k1) into one stitch, k8] twice, (k1,yo,k1) into one stitch, k28, [p1, k1] twice, p1. R34&36: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, p to last 5sts, [p1, k1] twice, p1. R35: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, k22,22,23,22,(23), pm, k42,42,40,42,(40), pm, k49,49,51,49,(51), pm, k42,42,40,42,(40), pm, k22,22,23,22,(23), [p1, k1] twice, p1. Sizes 12m & 18m: R33: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, removing all but the first and last markers as you reach them, k37, (k1,yo,k1) into one stitch (this should line up with the double increases in the lace), k17, (k1,yo,k1) into one stitch, k89, (k1,yo,k1) into one stitch, k17, (k1,yo,k1) into one stitch, k37, [p1, k1] twice, p1 8sts increased to 219sts. R34&36: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, p to last 5sts, [p1, k1] twice, p1. R35: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, k25, pm, k52, pm, k55, pm, k52, pm, k25, [p1, k1] twice, p1. Sizes 2y 6y: R33: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, removing all but the first and last markers as you reach them, knit to last 5sts, [p1, k1] twice, p1. R34&36: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, p to last 5sts, [p1, k1] twice, p1. R35: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, k(26),26,27,27,29, pm, k(55),56,54,54,59, pm, k(57),55,57,57,61, pm, k(55),56,54,54,59, pm, k(26),26,27,27,29, [p1, k1] twice, p1.
The markers should be in the following setup: prem: 5|22|42|49|42|22|5 nb: 5|22|42|49|42|22|5 3m: 5|23|40|51|40|23|5 6m: 5|22|42|49|42|22|5 9m: 5|23|40|51|40|23|5 12m: 5|25|52|55|52|25|5
18m: 5|25|52|55|52|25|5 2y: 5|26|55|57|55|26|5 3y: 5|26|56|55|56|26|5 4y: 5|27|54|57|54|27|5 5y: 5|27|54|57|54|27|5 6y: 5|29|59|61|59|29|5
All Sizes Raglan Increases: Work the Raglan Increase rows R1 & R2 (below) 0,0,1,0,(1,1,2,3),4,5,6,6 times, to 187,187,195,187,(195,227,235,253),261,269,277,295sts, remembering to work the buttonholes at the appropriate rows for your size. R1: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, sm, [k to one stitch before next marker, kf&b, sm, kf&b] four times, k to last 5sts, sm, [p1, k1] twice, p1. R2: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, p to last 5sts, [p1, k1] twice, p1. The markers should be in the following setup: prem: 5|22|42|49|42|22|5 nb: 5|22|42|49|42|22|5 3m: 5|24|42|53|42|24|5 6m: 5|22|42|49|42|22|5 9m: 5|24|42|53|42|24|5 12m: 5|26|54|57|54|26|5
18m: 5|27|56|59|56|27|5 2y: 5|29|61|63|61|29|5 3y: 5|30|64|63|64|30|5 4y: 5|32|64|67|64|32|5 5y: 5|33|66|69|66|33|5 6y: 5|35|71|73|71|35|5
Body: Body:
Work the following R1 & R2 1,1,1,2,(1,1,0,2),1,0,3,3 time(s), for a total of 2,2,2,4,(2,2,0,4),2,0,6,6 rows: R1: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, k to last 5sts, [p1, k1] twice, p1. R2: sl1, [k1, p1] twice, p to last 5sts, [p1, k1] twice, p1. Work a moss (US=seed) stitch band as follows, remembering to end with a WS row. R1 (RS): sl1 with the yarn held at back, [k1, p1] to end of row. R2 (WS): sl1 with the yarn held at back, [k1, p1] to end of row. R3: as for R1. R4, R6 & R8: as for R2. R5: sl1, [k1, p1] to last 4sts, k1, yo, k2tog, p1 this is the last buttonhole. R7: as for R1. Elsies Petal Cardigan v1 by Kate Gondwana 2012
Increase Row: Change back to larger needles: (RS) Sl1, [k1, p1] twice, k 10,10,10,10,(10,12,11,13),12,14,14,16, kf&b 3,3,5,3,(5,3,5,3),6,4,6,4 times, k 31,31,32,31,(32,38,36,42),40,46,43,49, kf&b 4,4,5,4,(5,3,6,4),6,4,7,5 times, k1, kf&b 4,4,5,4,(5,3,6,4),6,4,7,5 times, k 31,31,32,31,(32,38,36,42),40,46,43,49, kf&b 3,3,5,3,(5,3,5,3),6,4,6,4, k 10,10,10,10,(10,12,11,13),12,14,14,16, [p1, k1] twice, p1. The total stitch count should now be: 121,121,135,121,(135,135,149,149),163,163,177,177sts. Sl1, [k1, p1] twice, p to last 5sts, [p1, k1] twice, p1, then R1 (RS): sl1, [k1, p1] twice, k to last 5sts, [p1, k1] twice, p1. R2 (WS): sl1, [k1, p1] twice, p to last 5sts, [p1, k1] twice, p1. Repeat R1 & R2 until work measures 4,5,7,8,(9,11,12,13),14,15,16,18 cm/ 1.5,2,3,3,(3.5,4,4.5,5),5.5,6,6.5,7 from the underarm cast on, or 5cm/2 (fingering weight sizes)/ 6.5cm/2.5 (sport weight sizes)/ 7.5cm/3 (DK weight sizes) shorter than required length.
Sleeves: Sleeves:
Transfer sleeve stitches from the waste yarn onto the larger needle (or dpns if preferred). Pick up & knit one stitch in the gap between the live stitches and the cast on underarm stitches, then pick up & knit one stitch from the cast on stitches. Place marker, then pick up & knit stitches for the remaining underarm stitches, and then a stitch in the gap between the underarm stitches and the live stitches 46,46,46,46,(46,58,60,65),69,69,71,76sts.
R1: Knit to 3sts before the marker, ssk, k1. R2: Knit 1,1,1,1,(1,1,1,1),2,2,2,2sts, k2tog, knit to EoR 44,44,44,44,(44,56,58,63),67,67,69,74sts. Knit 0,0,0,0,(0,2,2,2),2,4,4,6 rows without further shaping. Changing to smaller needles, [k1, p1] 5,5,6,5,(6,5,5,4),4,4,5,4 times, [k2tog, p2tog] 5,5,4,5,(4,8,9,12),13,13,12,14 times, [k2tog, p1] 1,1,1,1,(1,1,1,0),0,0,0,1 times, [k1, p1] to one stitch before EoR, k1 33,33,35,33,(35,39,39,39),41,41,45,45sts. R3: [p1, k1] to last stitch, p1. R4: [k1, p1] to last stitch, k1. Work R3 & R4 2 more times, for a total of seven rounds of moss (US=seed) stitch. Cast off using the alternating decreasing cast off: p1, [take the yarn to the back, slip the stitch back to the LHN, k2togtbl, bring the yarn to the front, slip the stitch back to the LHN, p2tog] repeat to the EoR. To complete the round, pick up the first stitch of the round and k2togtbl. Repeat for the second sleeve.
Finishing:
Weave in ends and sew on buttons under the buttonholes. Wet-block the cardigan to open up the lace at the yoke, and to make the knitting sit flat. Once dry, put on a little girl and admire
A massive thank you to my fabulous testers, without whom the production of this pattern would be impossible:
Kate Gondwana, 2012. Copying or distributing this pattern in any manner violates copyright and makes me sad. Find me on Ravelry Im pyrrha and please do share your project pages. Any questions or comments can be directed to pyrrha@fastmail.fm
Schematic: Schematic:
A C
A B C
(cm/) prem Chest 39/15.5 Sleeve 11/4.5 Length from underarm 9/3.5
A B C
Repeat
At this stitch on the last repeat, remove marker, p1, replace marker and continue.
Repeat
Legend: Legend:
10