Workbench Magazine 310-2008

EDITOR'S NOTES
Mrkbench
PUBI.ISHER Donald B. Peschke MANAGING EDIIOR David Stone 5E1'llOR EDII0RS Bill Link, Wyatt Myers ASSISIANI EDIT0RS LouiseRitchhart,AlyssaSchmitt ART DIRECTOR Kim Downing ASSISTANTART DIRECT0RS Kurt Schultz,Doug Appleby stillORIILUSTRAT0R Erich Lage STNIOR WE8DESIGNER/ILIUSTRATOR Matt Scott
alk to almost any homeowner about what rooms they'd most like to redo, and the kitchen and bathroom will be at or near the top of the list. All too often, though, these two rooms never make it offthe wish list and onto the to-do list. The two biggest reasons for this are scale and expense. Redoing a kitchen or bath is normally a huge undertaking filled with tough decisions and big inconveniences.Plus, these rooms are by far the most expensive to redo, even if you do the work yourself. In this issue,we prove that a kitchen or bath makeover doesn t have to be as difficult or costly asyou might expect. In fact, itt possible to completely reinvent your kitchen or bath and even give it a personalized customized style with easyprojectsyou can do yourself. The kitchen projects begin on page 34, where you'll seehowwe gave a plain white kitchen a high-end look on a small budget. We started by painting the existing cabinets a bold new color. (We'll show you how to do it right on page 83.) To top offthe paint, we added all-new hardware, a job anyone can do. Then we installed a granite countertop - usually an expensiveproject thatt best left to a pro - using a system designed and priced for the DIYer, and topped it with a glass-tile backsplash.Throw in a few custom touches, and the results are amazing. On page 64you'll seehow we created a great-looking bathroom by turning an antique table into a one-of-a-kind vanity.And we did it for a just a few hundred dollars. We also came up with a unique and surprisingly simple wall treatment (plus two other great wall ideas) that we'll showyou on page94. Speaking of dramatic changes,we've made a bunch of them to our online customer service page that make it faster and easierto use.Just log on to WorkbenchCustomerService.com, and you can renewyour subscription, pay a bill, or check on a payment you've already sent. You can do a lot more, toq such as update your home addressor e-mail address,purchase gift subscriptions, or request a replacement for a damaged or missing issue. In addition to all of these features that make it easyto manage your subscription, you'll find links that allowyou to submit a "DIY Tip," send a question to'AskWorkbenchi'send an e-mail to the editors, or sign up for our free weekly eTips. And if you prefer to talk to someone in person, you'll find contact information for our customer service representativesthere, too.
CREATIVI DIRECTOR Ted Kralicek sENlOR PR0JE(T DtSl6NERS JamesR. Downing, Ken Munkel, Kent Welsh,ChrisFitch,Mike Donovan PR0JECI DE5l61'lER/BUItDER John Doyle 5H0P fiAFTSMEN Steve Curtis.Steve Johnson
ADVERTISING SALES MAiIAGERS George A. Clark,Mary K. Day ADVERTISING PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Minniette Johnson ADVERTISING C00RDINAT0R Melissa Stone ( 5 1 s )8 7 s - 7 1 3 5
EDlTORlAt MEDIA DlREfiOR TerryJ. Strohman EXECUTIVE ARTDIRECIOR Todd Lambirth SENIOR PH0T0GRAPHER5Crayola England,Dennis Kennedy SENI0R EIECTR0NIC IMAGE SPECIAII5I Allan Ruhnke ASSOCIATE STYII DIRECTOR Rebecca Cunninqham
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(tSSN 0043-8057) is pubtished bimoothly (Feb., woRKBENCH April,June,Aug.,Oct.,Dec.)byAugustHomePublishingCompany, 2200 Grand Ave., Des Moines, IA 503 12. lvorftbenchis a trademark of August Home Publishing. Copyright @2008 August Home Publishing Company. All rights reserued,
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WorkbenchCustomerService P.O.Box 842 DesMoines,lA50304-9961 Subscriptions(dAugustHome.com WorkbenchMagazrne 2200GrandAve. DesMoines,lA50312 Editor@Workbenchmag.com
www.Workbench Magazine.com
It's now possible to makethe kitchenaf your drean;s rnatch your buciqetlUithjust paint, tile,a bit af lumber, DIY-friendly and sorne
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Kitchen Conversion
a A bold new colorfor the cabinets, "solid" for the counterrops, sohttion and a one-of-o-kind tiiebacksplash to a ance-drat:kitchen. brina dctzzle
Kitchen Message Center

familyorganiz.ed Keep the vqrhole with thissimple and rn touclt in with messaqe that tslends center hinets. en cct vour kitch
34
An Unconventional Vanity
vanity that'sctut Create a bcthrcsom of the ordinaryby rrakinq it frctntan ar sideboard. antiqtretable,dresser,
44
Wine Storage Cabinet
Store wine the right way with haldsa thisattractive cabinet.lt has coft]pactchillertor white wines, for reds, and features space -she/yes for gldsses and servinq accessories.
ONLINE
WorkbenchMagazine.com Get even more information about the projectsand articlesin this issue: . Builder'sPlans:Message Center, Wine Cabinet, CoffeeTable, Photo Frames . SlideShows:No-Sand FloorRefi nish,Painting KitchenCabinets, Dealing with Doors,Building Photo Frames . BonusArticle: Painting Frame& PanelDoors
64
Personalized PlacematPhoto Frames
Youwon'tfind phota frarnes that are And what simpler to builcithanthese. (andgreat reallyntckesthemsysecrai qiftsilare the uniqueplacenars that . coverfhefrontsof fiie frctmes.
58
Clever Coffee Table
lncrease in theliving useful space room vtith thiscaffee table.lthos for extra two ottoftlansunderneuth
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70
74
2OO8 WORKBENCH DECEMBER
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The No-Sand Refinish Floor Wood

lf yourwoodfloors arelooking a little for weer, theymight notrequire warse products refi These can"renew" nishing. yourfloarwithoutmessy sanding.
DIY Gear
inta the Wediga little deeper af drill bits. types different
Over the Fence

news, fromholiday DIY Allthelatest roairductdilemmas. lightsafety rrps
28
Cool Countertops
youcan fourlavishlooks Presenting yourself money big on install to save yaurnexfkitchen remodeL
6
AskWorkbench
reader to cotmmon Answers quandaries,like howto properly seal lamps. windows andfixtable
30
Paint Power: New Life for Old Cabinets
your You thausands andgive cansave painting newlookby kitchen a great you Here's everything thecabinets. qet results. smoolh need to knowto
42
Here'sWhatt Cooking
a From to induction, convection in the kitchen lot haschanged We'll recently. showyou whyyou an upgrade. maywantta consider
12
Do-It-YourselfTips
ladders transport Carral cordclutter, plus great readers' tips. easily, | 6 more
83
Instant Makeovers: Walls ThatWow!
it is to transform a waltl howeasy See fromho-humto o roomhighlight. present greatCIptians here. We three
20
Dealingwith Doors
problems foundfive We common - and youhave withyourdoors ways to fix them. cameup witheasy
48
Tool & Product Showcase
94
4
WORKBENCH DECEMBER2OOS
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54
By theNumbers:
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reported a who homeowners problem contractor with akitchen
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Kitchen Cabinets
Here's without a cabinetryupgrade. Kitchens often go decades worth when it'stime for change. how to get your money's
If you've even thought about remodeling your kitchen, you know that cabinets can take a big bite out of your budget. And with so many finishes, materials, sizes,and accessoryoptions to choose from, itt no wonder that such a huge project often gets shelved. When chosen correctly, however, cabinets will last for years and drastically improve kitchen storage space. Before you order, you'llneed a game plan for your kitchen design. lf you're not sure where to start, you maywant to consider working with a professional or visiting a home center for ideas. Keep in mind that if you workwithin the kitchen's existing footprint, you'll be able to keep costs down. You also need to considerwhat level of cabinet customization is right for your kitchen. Custom, semi-custom, and stock cabinets give you a variety of choices at a wide range of price points. Seethe Tablefor a comparison of these cabinet types. Once you decide what type of cabinet you want, you should take a closer look at how you actually use them. Then, determine howto make your budget work for those priorities. Next, ask to look at the available stains, finishes, effects, and glazes. Think about the style of the rest of your
CABINET CUSTOMIZATION
Custom thesearebuiltto yourexact Themostcostly cabinets, yourchoice andwood You'll have of finishes specifications. plusmanyaccessory options. types, by of custom cabinets Youcanget someof the benefits stillplenty of possibilities.
semi-custom;l:iJffi i,.X#'" home. What elements do you love? :il[::*"J;'flffi':,',".T:iri:::lilf,

Stock they expensive optionbecause arethe least Stock cabinets styles, limityou to the available aremass-produced.They of choices. but therearea widevariety
That will give you a better idea about what you want from your cabinets' appearance.In the end, your choices should come down to what works for your space- and your wallet.
DEcEMBER 2oog woRKBENcH
FEI$CE-
BRINGUNIQUEARTTO YOURHOMEWITH
MuseumBanners
The banners that museums use to advertise their exhibits are now making their way to living room walls. B etterWall (BetterWall.com) is a Denver-basedbusiness that sells banners that originally hung on museum facadesor lamp posts. The banners promoted events and exhibits at museums acrossthe countrv. Works of art from the exhibits are depicted on the banners, so whatever your room style is, the company probably has a banner to match. Recent banners have shown lmpressionist paintings, quilts, and photography. The company's banners put a new twist on favorite works of art and bring them into your home. They're perfect as a focal point and conversation piece. The museums that displayed the banners can benefit from them, too. The banners bring in funds for the museums that go toward operations, exhibitions, programs, and collections. As we've highlighted in past issues there's nothing greener of Workbench, than reusing products and materials that would otherwise go to waste. In keeping with this idea, BetterWall keeps tons of banners out of landfills and puts them where art lovers can fully appreciate them. To help you find the art piece that's perfect for your place, BetterWall's Web site features searchfunctions that allow you to shop by artist, style, color scheme, or the city where the banner was displayed.
AlllgatorBoardt'M nctal pegboard is made from hearqy duty 20-gauge steel, making it stronger, rnore durable, and easier to maintain than standard pegboards. And its unique, strength-reinforcing dimpled holes mean it's compatible with the same hardware. Unlike ordinary pegboard, AlligatorBoard won't stain, warP, or degrade, and it's a breezeto install with the included mounting screws.And AlligatorBoardis made in the U.S.A., something even your fearsome, toothy friend over there will appreciate.
AlligatorBoard:
It's a hole new animal.
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Made for studsspaceda standard 76' apart, Alll$atorBoardpanalscomeln two slzes, 32' and 48' lon(by 16'wlde.The same renEtfisare also avallableIn 3" wlde strlps. ProductlnformationNumber179
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the communities and critique them based on a variety offavorable traits. In addition to an awards ceremony, all participating communities receive individual feedback from the judges
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to help develop a long-term plan for continued improvement. Ifyou're interested in getting your own community involved with America in Bloom, the first step is to start a committee. Encourage local service groups, schools, churches, and businesses to help with the planning. Then get in touch with your city or town govemment to tell them about the program and to help generate community support. Afteryour community signs up, you'll receive more detailed information about judging criteria and the judgingvisit. This yeart entry deadline is February 28,2009. For more information about the program, visit AmericalnBloom.org.
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ProgramHelps CommunitiesBloom
Yourgreenthumb orknackfor preservationcould help makeyour community a better place- and maybe evenwin an award.America in Bloom is a nonprofit organizationthat evaluatescommunitiesin eight categories: floral displays, tidiness,landscaped areas, urban forestry heritagepreservation, communify involvement,turf and
groundcover areas,and environmental effort. The organization honors participants who excel in those categories. To get involved, communities sign up with the organization and pay an entry fee. Participating communities are separatedbypopulation size.Then in May,June, orJuly (depending on the area'sgrowing season), judges visit
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THEGREAT DEBATE:
CleaningAir Ducts
Indoor air pollution is a growing concern for homeowners, especially those who suffer from allergies.There's much debate about whether dirty air ducts have a significant impact on the amount of dust in homes, and if cleaning the ducts can help prevent health problems. According to the EPA, a small amount of dust in the ducts is normal. Dust may also collect on return registers and isn t necessarilya sign of badly contaminated ducts. The EPA recommends that you clean air ducts only on an as-needed basis rather than routinely. Be wary of providers who recommend regular cleanings as part ofyour system's maintenance, or those who make broad claims about the health benefits their service provides. You maywant to look into duct cleaning, however, ifyou can see mold growth inside the ducts. Keep in mind that cleaning might not get to the root of the problem. You must first determine what is causing the mold and correct it, or the mold will most likely return. Other potential reasonsfor duct cleaning include large amounts of dust coming from supply registers or vermin infestation. Some companies will even offer to sanitize your HVAC system with chemicals. Make sure you're fully informed before agreeingto the use of chemicals during the cleaning process.Visit the EPAs Web site (EPA. gov/ iaq/ pubs/airduct.html) for more information about the process. If you would like to have your ducts cleaned, ensure that the service provider is qualified. The National Air Duct CleanersAssociation (NAICA. com) member search can help you locate a professional in your area. Before you hire a compan, compare estimates and servicesfrom different providers in your area.
J O I N T H E 2 O 3 OC H A L L E N G E Eachyear,about five billion square go up in the United f e e to f b u i l d i n g s States, and about five billion more 2030Challenge are renovated.The is an effort to changethe way these t o h e l ps t o p buildings a r ed e s i g n e d global warming.Architecture 2030, devotedto a nonprofitorganization greenhouse g a se m i s s i o n s , reducing isleading the challenge. The goal of the initiativeis that will be carbonnew buildings The neutralby the year 2030. organization h o p e st o a c c o m p l i s h p e o p l et o t h i sg o a l b y e n c o u r a g i n g u s es u s t a i n a b l d ee s i g n g , enerate onsite renewablepower,and purchase energycredits. Many well-knownorganizations, of including the American Society are on board InteriorDesigners, T .of i n d w i t h t h e 2 0 3 0C h a l l e n g e visit out more about the initiative, re2030.orq. Architectu
10
WORKBENCH DECEMBER 2OO8
Avoid Hazards That Come

with Holiday
(UL), Underwriters Laboratories a safety testingorganization, recommends that you put your exteriorlightsawayafter the holidayseason. Thiswill prevent prolongedexposure to the elementsand decrease the riskof damaqe.
i ! H R S T I N A R C H A R D S D R E A M 5 TM E C O M
Decorations
With the holiday seasonunder way, the last thing you want to worry about is the aftermath of an accident. Theret always an element of danger involved with chores that require climbing to roof level, and trying to hang lights at the same time can add an extra challenge. Before you get to workmaking your home the brightest on the block, make sure you've got the right ladder. Check the laddert capacity to seeif it exceedsyour intended load weight. When positioning the ladder, use a l:4 ratio: Move the base of the ladder one foot from the foundation for every four feet of ladder height. Holiday lights are a threat all by themselves if you don t know how to manage them. Itt tempting to link multiple strands together to get your desired effect, but that can overload outlets and lead to fires. The U.S. Fire Administration recommends that you hook no more than three strands together unless the directions included with the lights indicate otherwise. Use hooks or clips to attach the lights instead of nails or staples, which can puncture the wiret insulation. Itt also tempting to use the same lights year after year. But keep in mind that the strands wear out, and when they do, they increase your risk of electrical fires. Before you put up any lights, check them to make sure they are approved for outdoor usage.Then make sure all of the wires are in good condition and don t show excessivekinks or signs of fraying. The cost of a new strand of lights is a small price to pay compared to fire damage.
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RULES E N S U RY EO U ' R E A FEW SIMPLE
Routing Right
viewed from above, the bit spins clockwise.You can seethat in the lllustration at right. You need to move the router against the rotation of the bit. That way, the bit digs in. If you move the router with the rotation of the bit, the bit will act like a drive wheel, pulling the router along the workpiece. This makes it almost impossible to control, and results in a very bad cut. An easyway to keep the direction straight is to use the "rule of thumb" shown in the Illustration at right. Just place your router against the workpiece, and then hold your right hand over the top, so your thumb points toward the edge to be cut. Point your index finger, GeorgeSparks DesMoines,IA
\ ) : I just bouglrta neu)router,and I find it hard to control.For someoperationsit's to have a smooth,butfor othersit seems mind of its own.ls there a specifc u)ayI shouldmovethe router alongthe wood as I cut?
.''1: With many tools, itt pretty obvious which direction you should move it as you work. But you can move a router in either direction along a workpiece, and there's nothing in the tool's design that clearly indicates which direction is correct. But there definitely is a correct way and an incorrect way. To figure out the correct way to move the router, you need to think about the rotation of the bit. When
and it shows which direction to move the router. You can also use the simple guide shown at the top: Rout counterclockwise around an outside perimeter and clockwise around an inside perimeter.
i i , \ 1 f i 1 i * i . t f i{ } 1 i i : 5 T i ; j . \ , t t i l H#r.t 1#ffi ffi&WK &ffiswfiffi$f Email : Ask(Du'orkb enchmag.r:om and daytimephone number.You'll Forums : forums.*.'oodnet.net Includeyour full name,address, to Workbench (or a one-year Mail: Ask Workbench, 2200 Grand Ave., subscription receive a freeone-year if wepublishyour question. Des Moines, IA 50312 extension to your currentsubscription)
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12
DECEMBER 2OO8 WORKBENCH
--ASK VY-Cfi-KBIi\Lti
Water flowsbetween
KEEP THINGS DRAINAGE SYSTEMS
Drain troughs mount to

deckjoists so they
Dry Under a Deck

any patio undertny deck.lsthere Q t pto, to builda screened and into water corning through the deck getting way to keep from area? thescreened-in MikePatrick EastStroudsburg,PA A: Therearenumerousunder-deckdrainagesystems availablethat cankeepthe space below a deck dry. Somehaveto installed,while others,especially the ones be professionally meantto retrofit an existingdeck,canbe easilyinstalledby any competentDIYer. Therearesomedifferences in the systems, but all work (Illustration, on prettymuch the sameprinciple nght). Th"y consistof "troughs"that getinstalledunder or in between it the deckjoists.As waterruns throughthe deckboards, collectsin thesetroughs,which aretilted toward the outside of the deck.Then the water flows into a gutter-likesystem that directsthe water to a downspout.
slope toward
keep under-deck areasdry with simple Deckdrainagesystems The troughsthat fit under the deck boards. troughstrap rainqutters redirect downspouts. it into and water and
Simple Steps Revamp a Lamp

it's madeof metal or plastic.Most are metal with a gold or silverfinish. Thenyou canpick up a new socketof Mary Matheson the sametype at anyhardwarestoreor home center.Just Detroit,MI be sureitt marked "threeway" or "threeposition.' To replacea common metal socket, A: It is possible to converta lamp this way.In fact, the process is easy. first unplug the lamp.Then pop the Startby examiningthe bulb socket socketapartby squeezing it and in your existinglamp to determineif pulling it offthe base. Thiswill expose the wires.If the wiresarescrewed to the socket,simply unscrewthem. If the wires areinsertedinto holesin you'llhaveto cut the socketinstead, the wires,and then strip aboutlz" of insulationoffthe ends. Now just wire in the new socket,as shownat left. One of the wireson the lamp cord will either havea stripe or texture.Connect that to the gold screw. Attach the other wire to the silver screw. Thenjust push the new socket into the socketbaseon the lamp, and you're setfor three-waylighting. to conuert a standard Q fr it possible tablelamp to accept three-w ay bulbs7
WHATAREMY OPTIONS IN FLUORESCENT BULBS? COMPACT

For a long time, the selection of was lamps (CFLs) compactfl uorescent larnpsthat limited mainlyto "standard" lclreplaceindocr-useincandescent war,r bulbs.But as nroreand more consumers rnanufacturers switchto CFLs, have realized that they need tc offer the bulbs in a variet.vcf types. F o re x a m p l e i,n a d d i t i o nt o C F L s with ratings{see multiple culor tenrperature page t 2),you irugust2008, V{orkhench. can now find CFLs for two comn,only used indoor fixtures: three-inray lamps You'lleven find and dimmable larnps. "party"CFLs coatedin colorslike red, blue,and green. Foroutdoor use,ther* are CFLs in globesthat protect tlre housecl lampsfronr damageand hide the telltaiespirals. AncJ there are even CFL floodlightsfor outdoor use.In most cases, outdoor CFLs have c*ld-weather b a l l a s t sm , e a n i n gt h e y ' l ll i g h t e v e n d u r i n gw i n t e r .
14
Seasonal Window Seal

aredrafty,sofor thepastfewwintersI'ue Q tly windows installed shrink-fit plasticinsulator kits.But they're timeconsuming, expensive, andblockaccess to theblinds.ls there an easier wayto sealup my windows the winter? Jor Thompson Jeanne Denver, CO A: Thereis a product thatt simpler to useand very effective at stoppingair leaksaround a window sash. Itt calledremovableor peelable caulk.Thebrandfound most commonlyis Sealn Peelfrom Dap (Dap.com). As you can seein the Photo,top right, this caulkis applied usinga standardcaulkinggun. But itt clearand hardly noticeable, soyou canapplyit betweenthe sash and around the window perimeterswithout making an unsightly mess. What's really different,though, canbe seenin thePhotoat bottom right. Come spring,you canjust pull on the Seal'n' Peelcaulkto removeit. It comesout cleanlywithoutpulling up the paint or stainor leavinganyresidue.
'n'Peel Seal caulk flows into gaps around windows, and then curesto a flexible,rubbery consistency. When it'sno longer needed,it peels away cleanlywithout lifting paint or leavinqresidue.
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KEEPAIR MOVINGWHENYOU ADD
Attic Insulation
, :. I plan to install additional attic insulation beJore cold weatherhits.I've heard that I needto keepit awayfrom the uents.Can you tell me why? JoeConnor Cheyenne,WY As strangeas it sounds,you want air, whether it is cold winter air or hot summer air, to flow through your attic. Tha! s whyyou have soffit and roof vents. This airflow helps equalizethe inside and outside temperaturesof your roof to prevent condensation,mildew, and other problems. Of course,you don't want that air to get into the living spacesof your house, which is why you need insulation. When you add insulation, you need to make sure that the area around the soffit vents isn't obstructed. The easiest way to do that is to install airflow baffles (Illustration).The baffles provide spacefor air to flow under the roof but over the insulation. You can find the baffles in home centers.
/
Bafflebetween provides rafters for airflow space
l n s u l a t i oc na nb l o c k airflow from soffit ventsinto attic Airenters attic-----/ throughsoffitvents
4-ft. SECOND: Measure out from end of decklocation along ine, and a m a s o n 'ls m a k ea m a r ko n l i n e
DIY Math Made Easy

FIRST: Measure 3-ft. along house from endof deck location, andmake a mark on house ;,,'* I'mbuilding a deckand needto position the I thoughtI saw a techniqueforlayingthem out posts. Can you tell squareusingstring and a tape measure. m e h o wi t w o r k s ? AndreRethman WestDesMoines,IA
Layout Stake
)
.,'t. The technique you're talking about is called
\
Mason's Line e rommark T H I R DM : e a s u rf to mason's line,and on house l i n eu n t i l t h e na d j u s t measurement eouals 5-ft.
the 3-4-5 method of measuring,and itt an easy way to make sure you accurately position the deck posts so that the deck will be square and the joists will be perpendicular to the house wall. The 3-4-5 method is really just a simple way to form a right triangle using basic math and the Pythagorean theorem. You just need a tape measure,some masont line, and a few stakes.The lllustration at left shows how it works for locating your deck posts. Of course,your deckwill probablybe more than 4-ft. deep,but you can easilydouble (6-8-10) or use fractions or triple (q-tZ-tS) the distances, of the formula for a more accurate measurement at a further distance from the house wall.
DeckPost
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Youcan buy a repiacuncnt for almcst any stylnof d o o r t h r e s h o l dJ . u s tb e s u r et o n r a t c ht l r e profiie and height of the olcjone for a gocclfit.
StepUp to a
New Threshold
Q ftt, threshold on my front door is rotten. Will I have to replacethe entire door or doorframe? Dave Stefen Madison, WI A: The threshold takes a lot of abuse fromwater, weather, and foot traffic. But it can be replaced without replacing the rest of the frame. First you need to find the right replacement. Home centers stock a bunch of them. Measure your old one, and take a sketch or photo of it with you to help in selecting the right replacement (Photo). Once you have the replacement, remove the old threshold (Illustration). To do that, use a hand saw or reciprocating saw to cut it into a few sections, and then use a hammer or pry bar to pry it out. In most cases,the side jambs probably sit on top of the threshold, so they may get torn up a bit when you do this, but thatt okay. You'll need to cut out the lower portions anryay, and then make and fit in extensions that go to the floor. Now cut the new threshold to length, so it fits between the jambs. Caulk under the threshold and secureit according to the instructions.
Patchend
Cutout old
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EASILY WITHA MOLDINGS CUTSHORT
Small PieceHolder
', i : I need on my miter ueryshortpieces of molding to cutsome How canI cut saw, but theykeep flying of andgettingruined. themwithoutthishappening?
AngelRodriguez Los Angeles,CA ,''1: Most miter sawshave a hold-down assemblythat can keep your workpieces in place as you cut. But the hold-downs rarely work with pieces less than a few inches long. To hold small pieces, attach the workpiece to a "sled" made of 7+"-thick hardboard or plywood. You can make this from any scrap piece thatt wide enough so the blade can t cut all the way across. To use it, just adhere the workpiece to the sled using double-faced carpet tape, making sure the workpiece is aligned exactlywith the edge of the sled. Then lay the sled on your saw table, and cut. The tape will hold the short cutoffin place, so you can easily retrieve it after you shut offthe saw.
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Special Hinge Simplifies Cabinetry

and t]; I'mbuildingmyfirst cabinet I the know need to add hinges door. for recess thehinges woodworkers usually into thewood,but that looks likea lot oJ an easier way? work,Isthere
lanice Martinsdale Minneapolis,MN A; Most hinges have two flaps that lie flat against one another when the hinge is closed. So ifyou mount the hinge flush with the door and the cabinet, you'll end up with a rather large gap in between. That's why hinges are often set into recesses called mortises. These get cut into the door and the frame to match the size of the hinge flaps. That way, part of each flap is "buried" when the hinge gets mounted so the gap between the door and frame is smaller. Thankfully, thereb a type of hinge that doesn't require a mortise. In fact, it's known as a no-mortise hinge. As you can see in the Photo at left, a nomortise hinge has one small flap that fits into an opening in the other, larger flap. That means theret one flap thicknesswhen the door is closed, which produces just the right amount of gap between the door and the cabinet.
GASGO WILLLAWNMOWER THEWINTER? BADOVER

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18
LABEL
Those Cables
With todayt complicated entertainment center and computer setups, it can be difficult to identify all the cords and cablesplugged into the power strip. But Matthew Flores of El Paso, Texas,came up with a great way to make senseof the "bird's nest." He simply savesthose little plastic tabs that hold bread bags closed,writes the component names on them, and slips them over the ends of cords near the plugs. Now he no longer has to wonder which cord goes with which component when he needs to identify or unplug a cord.
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USYOURTIPS PRIZE SEND BESTTIP Mail: WINNER! Workbench DlYTios Ave. 2200 Grand For thisissue's Moines, lA50312 Des award-winning Online: tip, Motthew Workb enchMasazine,com Floreswill receive Rage an Evolution Multi-Purpose Mini ChopSaw volued at over 5250!
LEAD GETTHE OUT

Pencil linesdon't show up wellwhen markingdark materiwhy Joe walnut,or certainmetals. That's alslikepegboard, purchased Paper a Liquid Doughtyof Birmingham, Alabama, pen.Thenewestmodelshavea fine tip to createa sharpline.
20
SAVE THEDATE
To preventan always aggravatingbeeping smokealarm,L.F. Costabile of Pittsburgh,Pennsylvania, writes the date on a pieceof maskingtape and puts it on the battery.That way, he knows how old the battery is the next time he checksit.
5
NO.GUESS PICTURE POSITIONING

Tiredof g,uessing at the location picturehangers when installing on the wall?AugustNemecof Elkridge, Maryland, usesa thumbtackand a piece of maskingtape to end the guesswork. By positioningthe frame and pushing the tack into the wall,you get a precisehole for mounting a hanger.
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Youwor! o gorgeouskiichen. But you don't wqnf to buy o tile sqr'-v, fiiiiftt noiler;compressorond o lot of ofier expensive equipment. Relox. You cqn renf it oll ot on AM member renfolstoreond own the prideof o wonderfulremodel. Find AM member rentol stores neoryouol
ON G E TA G R I P
Stuck Bolts
A boltwith rounded edgescan be tough to.getyour wrench a tip from around.Take JamesLeeof LawTennessee, renceburg, and cut a notch in the bolt headwith a you can hacksaw.Then with a hold it steady flathead screwdriver while you turn the nut.
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LADDER MOBILE EXTENSION

ladderscan be heavyand awkwardto move around. Extension made things easierby adding a Georgia, Don DeClueof Evans, pair of wheelsto his.The wheels,which came off an old fertilizer passthrough one of the open rungsof the ladder.They spreader, just need to be mounted so they don't contactthe ground when the ladderis lifted into place.
ASSEMBLY EASY CASE

it'seasyto drill in a case, When installingshelves p i l o t h o l e si n t h e w r o n g p l a c ea n d m i s st h e s h e l f That'swhy SergeDuclosof Delson, completely. jig. One arm bears createdthis U-shaped Quebec, where to on the shelffrom inside,so it indicates drill pilot holeson the outsideof the case.
22
DECEMBER2OOs WORKBENCH
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EXTRA-STURDY
Lumber Storage
2%"Woodscrews (driven in from of both sides thestud)
o f L a u r e lH i l l , D a v eP r e s t o n on F l o r i d as , a wt h e b r a c k e t s project our "PerfectPergola" ( A u g u s t2 0 0 8 )a n d r e a l i z e d t h e y c o u l d e a s i l yb e m o d i fied into bracketsfor lumber
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ARM BRACKET
(11/2" x31/2"x24")
Exposed Garage Stud

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s t o r a g ei n a n u n f i n i s h e d g a r a g eo r s h e d .H e j u s t u s e d 2x4s insteadof 2x6sfor t h e b r a c k e ta r m s ,a n d t h e n t h e a r m sa r o u n da n slipped exposedwall stud. A few d r i v e nt h r o u g h t h e screws p a r t sa n d i n t o t h e s t u d s e c u r et h e b r a c k e ta n d c r e a t e a s t u r d ys t o r a g es o l u t i o n .
A R MS U P P O R T (11/2" x287/s") x51/2"
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The only solid G?st.iron top with five square feet of work surface!
a lncludes standard miterslot plusa Universal T-trackfor featherand boards more! 4" dustport Cabinet's port and fence's215" provide above collection andbelowthe cutter
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SHELF INSTANT
Mockup
y o u b u i l ds h e l v i n g , Before of Otley, KyleSchumaker mocking l o w a ,r e c o m m e n d s up the layoutwith cardboard . h i sw i l l g i v e a n d p a i n t c a n sT you a senseof the shelves' you'll sizes andthe spacing need between shelves.
W IE RE CHASE SUPER-SIMP L
Runningwire from one storyof your home fancyelectrito the next doesn'trequire HaiNguyen of Hackensack, ciantools. PVC New Jersey, took a 1O-ft.length of 1/2" pipe,inserted and taped wire insideit, and pushedit up througha holedrilledin the PVC isflexibleenough wall baseplate.The but rigidenough to bendwhen needed, to work its way through the wall'sinterior destination. Oncethe wire to the desired haveone personhold onto it is in place, the PVCpipe. while a helperremoves
24
PERFECT PILOT HOLE

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There's no reasonto search aroundfor the right-sized d r i l l b i t f o r m a k i n gp i l o t h o l e s f o r f i n i s hn a i l s I . n s t e a dd ,o what JamesLeeof Lawrenceburg,Tennessee, does,and u s et h e n a i li t s e l f . . J uc slti p the head off first with a wire cutters , o t h e n a i lw i l l c h u c k easily intothe drill. * Stack up Srnartly. In kitchens a n d c l o s e t st,h e r e ' s a tendency t o s t a c ku p . J a s o nB a l d n e r , presidentof KitchenSolvers, recommends takingadvantage o f t h e n u m b e ro f s t a c k a b l e s t o r a g eb o x e sa v a i l a b l eT .hese l e t y o u u s e o t h e r w i s eu n r e a c h -
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a b l e s p a c ew i t h o u t c r e a t i n ga p o t e n t i a la v a l a n c h e overhead. f*?Creat* Ur:der-Sink Storage. lf you don't havea vanity in the bathroom,use fabricattached with Velcroto hide a shelving unitunderneath t h e s i n k ,s a y s Barrylszak, author af Organize YourGaragein NoTime.
fr PutStorage on Display"
Considerputting colorful hand towels and facecloths on display in a wicker basketor on a slrelf if you lackbathroom space, says AllisonMezzafonte, senioreditor a t A O LH o m e .O r p u t t h e m o n pegs secured to the wall,says designexpert KathyPeterson. *? Make a Makeshift {loset.In a s m a l la p a r t m e n to r r o o m w i t h o u t a closet,installa suspended t r a c ko n t h e c e i l i n g with curtains or draperies, sayslszak. lt will reducethe sizeof the room a few feet, but you will gain loadsof storagespace. f3 Frstect Valuables. Finally, c o n s i d e r e n t i n gs p a c ei n a tem perature-control led storage unitfor valuable i t e m sT . h i sc a n preventdamageto itemsfrom heat,cold,sun,humidity,mildew, or dampness t h a t c a n o c c u ri n a garageor basement, saysCarol Stevens of MSCOMedia.
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25
COUNTERSINK
for thisdoubleReach ciutybit rvhenyou want to drilla piiot hoiefor a screwand a conical recess for the screwhead
i^ ^^^ ^--r, +^F r no d s y -s reli. ne e
POINT BRAD
bit has l-his wood-boring a pilot point that ensures plussharp pinpoirrt accurac,v, spurs that cut \ /ith a shearing actionto makehoieswith tearout-free edges.
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bits provicea Spacje q u ick,economicalv,ray
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soft in diameter througl-r and hardwoods.
HOLE SAW
no better bit ior There's up to boringholesfrom 114" than a irole 6" in diameter The center bit makesa salv. pilct hole,and tire outercup sawslts way though.
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wiring Whenyou neecitorLin or pipesthrougha stud, any speedtrumpsprecision
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28
Drill Bit Basics

Drillingholesmay not elicita whole lot of excitement, but knowing which bit to choose will makeit mucheasier to get the results you want any time you haveto take on a "boring"job.
MASONRY A hardened steel or

carDroe ttp letsa masonry bit chewthrough brick, concrete, andother materials abrasive that wouldeatanordinarv bit.
FORSTNER A Forstner bit bores flat-bottomed holes with incredibly clean edges, and canevendrilloverlapping holes, making it perfect for woodworking projects.
TWIST
Although it'sdesigned for making l'ioles in metal, a standard twist bit canalsoboreholes in wood,plastic, andother synthetic materials easily.
GLAsS.& TILE
Thearrowhead tip on a glass andtilebit grinds through these delicate materials to prevent cracks andbreaks thatordinary bitscause.
BUTLET
Thetip of a bulletbit bores a pilothole, small sothesharp cutting spurs won'thave to workashard.This makes it great forworking with metal.
29
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Floor Renewal
veryone wants bright, shiny hardwood floors. But making old, worn-out wood floors look brand new used to take a lot of labor. Traditional floor refinishing requires sanding the floor with a large sander, and then applying a few fresh coats of floor finish. It's hard work, and sometimes all that effort just isn't necessary to fix what's wrong with your floor. That's becauseseveralcompanies are claiming you can now give your floor a great new look without all the effort. Their products go by many names - Reviver, Renewal, Rejuvenate-but they all claim to do the same thing: restore your floor without the sanding. We tried out severalof these products, including Hopeb Floor Revive, Minwax's Reviver, Rejuvenate, and Varathane's Renewal, and they all worked quite well. But it's important to recognize up front that not every floor is a good candidate for these products. The systemsare not intended to be a replacement for a full-on refinishing.The Sidebar onpage 3l explains when itt appropriate to "rene'w" your floor, and when a full refinishing is the right course. As long as you understand that - and realize that these systemscan do nothing to replace finish, remove stains, or confident that you'll be as happy with cover gouges- v7s'1s the results as we were. Of all the restoration systemsavailable,we found that the most comprehensive was Varathane'sRenewal. Renewal is a three-step kit that abradesthe old floor in preparation for new finish, cleans it, and then adds a fresh layer of finish that's ready for use in a few hours. Details ofthe Renewal-We used the Varathane Renewal system on a pine floor. The floor's original waterbased finish was more than 10 years old and was faded, dull, and scuffed in places,making it a perfect candidate for "renewal" (Photo,left).Thedetails of the processare on the following page.
30
2OO8 DECEMBER WORKBENCH
CCo 'f r . I Several new products claim to restore
the appearance ofyour hardwood floors without afull refinishing (in otherwords, no sandirg). Do theyreillywork?We 'test-finish took afewfor a to find out."
EasyApplication- One thing the Renewalkit hasgoing for it is ease of application.For the first two steps(abrasion ' and cleaning),you spreadthe solution out in 4-ft. x 8-ft. sections, scrub it aggressivelywith an abrasive pad, and then wipe it up with ragsand warm water (Figs. I and2) - that's it. A half-hour later,the floor shouldb. dry enoughto move on to the next step. "Diamond'Finish-Another unique aspectof the Varathane systemis that it comeswith a catalyzedtopcoat of finish.You actuallypour a catalystinto the finish and stir it up before application(fig.3). Usually reserved for professionals,catalyzed fi nishes are much harder,stronger,and more durable than noncatalyzed finishes. And that wascertainlythe case with our floor. The finish went on easilywith a syntheticfloor applicator (fig. +), and it dried to a smooth,mirror-like shine in just a coupleof hours (fig. S).A secondcoat of finish is recommended, and then you shouldlet the floor dry for at leasteight hoursbeforewalking on it, and7}hours before submitting it to normal use again. FinalJudgment- Overall,we were impressed with the Renewalsystemt ability to breathenew life into an old wood floor.And at under $100for 225 square feet of floor coverage, it's a reasonable alternativeto a new or refinished floor. For more informatiory visit Varathane.com or call 1T s00-323-35S4.
.l
You should renew when....

) The finish isdull. ) The floorhasminor surface scratches. ) There arescuff marks in thefinish. ) Water beads upwhendripped on thefloor. ) You have anengineered or laminate floorthatcan't be sanded.
You should refinish when....

) The finish ismissing. ) Thefloorhasdeep scratches andgouges. ) There arestains. ) Water soaks into thewoodgrain. ) You have a solidwoodfloorthick
enough to handle sanding.
31
KITIHIN [O]\V[R5IOh|
aboutyour s it time to do something drab kitchen?Open your mind before you openyour wallet. Thatt what thesehomeownersdid. And in just a couple ofweekends,and for lessthan $2,500,they breathednew life into their tired kitchen. We'll showyou theymadetheir dreams cometrue with a fresh coat of paint, some newhardware,a DlYgranite countertop,a a new sink and one-of-a-kindtile backsplash, faucet,and the creativereworking of some cabinetspace. under-utilized As you seethis kitchen transformed,it's up to you to imagineyour own kitchen in a new light by choosingone, a few,or all of these projectsto bring new form to your existing and materials kitchen. The tools, techniques, you'll needareall DlY-friendly. With our you truly resources andyour resourcefulness, without the price canhavea premium kitchen installation. tag of a professional
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From the moment they moved into their first home, Sean and Haleyhave lived with a white-on-white kitchen - the very absenceof color. So it's no surprise that when they imagined a new look for this dull space,it included rich, deep tones throughout. ln particular, the cabinetsfound newlife under a fresh coat of "Dark Pewter" oil-basedpaint from Benjamin Moore. The walls and window trim also got a sprucing up in shadesof "Smoke" and "Cloudy SLy," respectively. For complete details of applying a durable painted finish to your cabinets, and some valuable know-how that you can use in any painting project, see"Paint Power" on page 83. Beyond just a splash of color, though, our intrepid homeowners also took the opportunity to make a few small changes that would have a big impact on the style of their kitchen. First, they replaced two sets of side-hinged upper cabinet doors with single top-hinged doors (Photos,above). The new doors - just plywood with rounded-over front edgesand rabbeted backs-were simple to make on a router table. Then they removed the doors from the upper, center cabinets, along with the scalloped valance just beneath them (Photo,abouerigh). The valance would be out of place with the new style of the kitchen. As for the cabinets, a bit of paint and some cherryplywood changed this marginally useful storage area into tasteful display space.To extend this embellishment, they replaced the non-operating panel in between the two display cabinets with a custom clock of matching cherry (Photo,above).Complete instructions for the display cabinet and clock projects are available at Workb enchMagazine.co m. The final touch for the cabinets was newhardware. The old lightweight, white wire pulls, which got lost in the field ofwhite doors and drawers, were removed. The holes theyleftbehind were filled as part of the cabinet painting project. Larger,bolder stainlesssteel pulls and complementary hinges complete the cabinet modernization. (Seethe "Buyert Guide" on page 41 for hardware details and sources.) Tip: A cardboard template made it easyto position the hardware consistently on the doors and drawers.
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36
co untertop consider ations

If any single element in the kitchen could be credited for inspiring this makeover, it would have to be the countertop. Not content to simplylie flat and go unnoticed, its dated ugliness spread all the way to the backsplash and to an inexplicable end-wall type of structure. Sean and Haleywere anxious to rip this out. The couple had dreamed of granite countertops, but nearly gave up that hope when they learned how expensive a professionally installed granite surface can be. The large, thick slabs of granite that countertops are typically made from are farbeyond the ability of a typical DfYhomeowner. And the couple was unimpressed with the granite tile solutions they had seen to date. That was until we introduced them to the "Kitchen in a Box" options from Bedrock Creations. This particular granite tile system is different from others in that it comes complete with decorative edge tiles that help create the illusion of solid granite, but is no more difficult to install than conventional tile. Learn more about Bedrock Creations "Kitchen in a Box" and other DlY-friendly premium countertop options onpage 42. Having discovered the perfect new countertop, it was time to remove the old one. And that turned out to be easier than they could have hoped. The countertop was connected to the cabinets with just a few screws, which they removed effortlessly. And the backsplash came away from the wall without seriously damaging the plaster (fig. t).In fact theywere able to remove the countertop, backsplash, and sink as a single piece (fig. Z). That cleared the way to install a new plywood substrate as a foundation for the granite tile (F,gs.3 and 4). An important consideration here was the overhang. The ogee-shaped edge tiles are nearly 1" thick, so they cut the plywood substrate to overhang the cabinet edge by just Vz",which ultimately produced a |Vz" overhang.
After removing the old countertop, the next step is to installa 7a"-thick plywood substrate. Screwthe plywood directly to the cabinetsfrom the top.
37
.-.-.,,@ for the Asyoucutthe opening at an driven sink, usescrews, to the cut lines, angle across fromfallkeepthe wastepiece below. ing intothe cabinet
n irqstnfj$tr* frfsi# Lt'pst*rt*p

Once the substrate was in place, it was time to make space for the sink. Using the template that came with their new sink, Sean and Haley laid out the location of the opening and cut the hole with a jigsaw (fig. t). They had selected an under-mount sink, so the next step was to rout a shallow channel around the opening for the lip of the sink to rest in (fig. z). For additional points to consider when installing an under-mount sinkwith this countertop system, seepage 41. With the sink in place, theywere able to use a quarter-round tile (which is part of an optional drop-in sinkkit from Bedrock Creations) as a gauge to position the first sheet of cement backerboa r d (Fig 3). This backerboard creates a strong bond with the thinset mortar that holds the tile and also helps protect against moisture damage and mold growth in the substrate. The next step was to lay out, cut, and dry-fit the entire tile countertop. The importance ofthis step can'tbe overstated.Once you begin spreading
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thinset mortar, youwon't have time to make elaboratecuts or reconsider how the tile should go together. So, beginning from the sink andworking out toward the ends,the couple laid out the countertop just astheywanted it. And itt worth pointing out here that these tiles are designed to be butted tightlytogether. Thebeveled edgesof the tiles allowfor a very thin grout joint that wort't detract too much from the solid-granite illusion. The couple laid out their countertop so that dl of the cut tiles were positioned
38
of thinset mortar and began positioning the field tiles (Frgs.6 andT). At last it came time to attach the edge tiles. One interesting note about these edge tiles is that this systgm offers you a choice of how thick you want the countertop to appear when itt finished. Thatt because the edge tiles have a removable apron that, if left in place, creates a 3"-thick edge profile. Sean and Haley chose to remove the apron, which is easy to do by prying it offwith a margin trowel orpuftyknife, and have a more conventional lVz"-thick edge. at the back and ends of the countertop, away from the central focal point of the sink. To cut the tile, they rented a tile saw.By planning the layout and cuts ahead of time, theylimited the rental cost to just a fewhours. and laid ot Once all of the field tiles were cut (Fig. 4), they went through To attach the edge tile, they used a special, fast-setting mortar as recommended by the manufacturer. A small piece of tape held each one in place for the 30 minutes it took for the quickcuring mortar to become frrm (Fig. S). The following day, Sean and Haley used a dark-colored, non-sanded grout to fill the narrow grout lines between the tiles (fig.9).Depending on your installation, Bedrock Creations offers specific recommendations for for grout and thinset in their installation manual. BedrockCreations' decorative edge tiles,quarter-round sink-edge tiles,and very thin grout linescombineto create the illusionof a solidgranite countertop.
the same steps for the edge tiles, beginning at the sink and working oufward. At one end, the edge tiles simply dead-end into the adjoiningwall. But at the other end, they had to install a special corner tile and continue the edging along the end of the countertop. Along this end, they started with a full edge tile near the front and cut the edge tile that was nearest the wall. With the cutting and fitting done, it was time to start laying the tiles for good. The first step was to set the quarter-round tiles around the sink edge using granite adhesive (fig.5). Then the countertop really started to take shape as the couple applied a bed
www.Workbench Magazi ne.com
39
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hacksplash a better
materialwasa The perfectbacksplash and for Sean discussion point of some and steel sink With the stainless Haley. backssteel drawerpulls, a stainless a natural choice.But they plashseemed alsotoyed with the idea of extendinga single,narrowband of the granitetile partwayup the wall, so the backsplash would match the countertop. they decidedthat the Eventually, wasa greatplaceto bring backsplash somenew colorsinto the mix, and tile like the idealway to do it. seemed
After some research, Haley came across a unique glass tile product from Trend Group. What sets these tile sheets apart from other glass tile is that you can select the colors of the individual 1" x 1" tiles, and how much of each color gets used in each L2" x12" sheet. The Web site TrendGroup-USA. com features a design tool that lets you mix and match as many as ten colors, textures, and patterns and assign each a percentage. The application then generates a preview of a tile sheet using the
colors and quantitiesyou prescribed. Onceyou decideon the perfect color blend for your project,you can download a specsheetof the tile you created and takeit to the nearestTrend $roup dealerto placeyour order. tile costabout$17 andHaley's Sean foot andtook abouttwo weeks per square foot price may seem to make.The square abit high,but the total price of the tile it tookrelatively wasunder$350because little of itto coverthesmallarea.And theret no doubt the dramaticimpact of the tile wasworth the investnent. Alongwith orderingthe tile, the local the right adhesive select dealerhelped and grout and evenofferedsomepointers on installingthe tile. The first pieceof theygotwasto usethe same advice herethat they used cementbackerboard for the countertoptile, eventhough the Installingthat was wall wasin good shape. the first order ofbusiness. From there,installingglasstile is not so differentfrom ceramictile: Simply apply a thin bed of adhesive usinga V-notchedtrowel (fig. l).Then into the adhesive, pressthe tile sheets and makesurethat eachindividual tile is firmly embeddedin the adhesive. arein place, When all the tile sheets you'll needto cut slits in the plastic facingsheetthat holds the tile together. to get This will allow the adhesive enoughair, so it will cure.After about 24 hours,you canremovethe plastic sheetaltogether. To cut and shapeindividual tiles to fit around cornersor into tight spaces, you'llneed to scoreand snapthe tile as 2 and3 at left. shown inFigures tiles,usean ordinary To cut glass glass at any cutter,available the tile. to score store, hardware is handy A smallstraightedge to snapthe usepliers here.Then line. the score tile along
40
DECEMBER2OOS WORKBENCH
O N L I N ES T U F F R epl aci ng panelwit h a non-openi ng a cherry-faced clock andtransforming under-utilized cabinets intostriking display spaces created a dramatic focal pointin thiskitchen. Formoredetails on the clock anddisplay space makeover, check out the"Online Extras" at Workbench Magazi ne.com.
FOR MORf; INFO:

Countertop Bedrock Creations Kitchen in a BOX Emerald Pearl Granite with OgeeEdgeTile andDrop-in Sink Kit BedrockCreations.net 888-545-3752 Doorand DrawerPulls LeeValley Stainless SteelRoundTube Handles Various lengths LeeValley.com 800-267-8735 Hinges LeeValley Model 02H12.54 LeeValley.com 800-267-8735 Sink Vigolndustries ModelLF-SQO2 Purchased on Overstock.com Vigolndustries.com 866-591-7792 Faucet PricePfister Ashfi eld Collection, Model529-7YPS PricePfister.com 800-732-8238 Backsplash Tile Trend GroupUSA Glass Mosaic Custom Blend TrendGroup-USA.com 866-508-7363
p{arti?tgthoughts
One more thing that really attracted Seanand Haleyto Bedrock Creations' countertop system was the flexibility they had to choose the sryle of sink they really wanted. Many DfY countertops force you to live with a drop-in (topmount sink), andyou can certainly choose that option with this countertop. But Bedrock Creations offers kits that let you easily and seamlesslyinstall an under-mount or flush-mount sink. That notwithstanding, installing an under-mount sink does add some cost and complexityto the project. Right out of the gate,these sinks cost quite a bit more than drop-in models (though Haley found a great deal on her sink at Overstock.com). But more importantly, the installation raisesthe challenge of having to drill through the countertop to install the faucet and other fixtures. Of course, drilling the substrate is no problem. But putting matching holes in the granite is beyond any drill bits you can buy at the home center. In that case,your choices are to piece the tile around the fixtures (which we did without harming the appearance,see Fig.1) or to carefully lay out the locations of the holes on the tiles and take them to a local countertop fabricator. There you'll pay asmall fee to have them drilled professionally. Be sure to plan ahead either way so you dont have to sufferwithout your kitchen anylonger than necessary or rent the tile sirw for a second time to cut in around the fixtures. Then, having planned carefully, shopped thoughtfully, and worked dili-
gently,you'll soonbe ableto openyour new,premierkitchento your friends and family,who mayneverbelieve how much you did yourselfand how much you saved for the effort.E- WrittenW Bill Link, projectdesigned byKentWelsh
41
for an Don'tsettle postoff-the-rack, formedcountertop in yourDIYkitchen High-end remodel. areeasier materials than everfor you to andinstall. acquire
(0UNTERTOP #pti#ws
CREATIONS BEDROCK
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43
In most homes,the kitchen is the placewhere everyone- and everything- gathers.Calendarsand note boardsget stuck on the fridge; pensand calculators get shovedinto'junk" drawers;andkeys and mail get piled on the counter.Together,they can quicHy turn an otherwisetidykitcheninto a clutteredmess. Thankfully, many cabinet manufacturersnow to corral offer'brganizer" cabinetsthat are designed all that clutter. Ifyou plan to install new cabinets, is a greatidea. incorporatingone of theseorganizers - Butwhat canyou do ifyoure not remodeling? Chancesare-yourexisting cabinetsare chock-full already,and it's rarely easyto find spacefor another cabinetin an existinglayout. center That'swhywe cameup with this message that can easilybe addedonto the end of an existingrun As you canseein the Photoat riglrt, ofwall cabinets. it's just a shallowboxwittra shelfinside.T.hePhoto on page45 showsthat this small cabinetholds a lot, dry-eraseboardmail, kep, though,suchasa calendar, metalback and much more. It evenhasa galvanized panel,soyou cansticknotesup usingmagnets. By building it out of a matchingwood (oak in our case),and then stainingand finishing it to match the you canmakeit blend right in. In existingcabinets, closed,you canhardly eventell with the door fact, is there. this cabinet
have a mail organized, keep clutter, Cutkitchen -and finally be r foryourcalenda location central cabinet. yourkeys withthissimple to locate able
44
DECEMBER 2OO8 WORKBENCH
e+
ih
iS+
Details Make the Difference -In addition to making the messagecenter easyto incorporate into your kitchen, we wanted to make it easyto build. The Illustration at right shows the basics of how it goes together. You can find more details on the next two pages,as well as in the buildert plans that you can download free at WorkbenchMagazine.com. The project consists of a face, a back, a top, a bottom, a shelf, and shelf dividers that are all made of solid wood. Plus, there's a door made from plywood. That's pretfy standard construction, but there are a few details for this cabinet that warrant attention. First, the face of the messagecenter is offset just abit (TopView,below rrgh). Thatt because,on most kitchen cabinets, the face frame extends beyond the
Existing Kitchen WallCabinet
Applyinga metalsheetto the cabinetcreates a magnetic
)- ;:^;ipaneiinsioetrre
center )1 _ message
.'lQ
Message center mountsto the end of a wallcabinet
Dividers organize theshelves "stops" Acrylic keep items on shelves
Face
t| "ft,1
\ L
Frame ,-\ i'
<->
<-"*:)
Message center Face
Message CenterTop
<:> <:>
Message center J Back /
www.WorkbenchMa gazine.co m
45
cabinet side. Offsetting the face of the messagecenter accommodates that. Don't let that detail worry you, though. We'll show you how to deal with it easily. Next, you'lIwant to note that the shelf sits on small brass pins that fit into holes in the face and back of the message center (Illustration, below).They let you adjust the shelfheight. Becausethe shelf is small, it could slide offthose pins, so there are grooves in its underside to cradle the pins.
The shelf and the cabinet bottom each have a groove in their top faces, aswell. These hold %"-thick acrylic 'ttops." Th.y prevent items from sliding out without hiding them from view. Next, look at the door. It's iust a piece of 3/+"plywood but it gets a small rabbet cut in the bottom edge to create a recess that you can grab to pull the door oPen. After this gets cut, a thin piece of solid stock is glued to the leading edge of the door to cover the bare plywood edge.
Finally, as you can see in the Construction View below, the message center is assembledwith pocket screws. You can learn about pocket screws and the jig used to create them in a free article at Workb enchMagazine.com. all this in Begin the Build-With the face, by cutting mind, you can start to back, top, bottom, and shelf size following the Illustr ati on b elow and the builder's drawings.
;$". **
#r
Wall Existing
Side Cabinet - MetalSheet
Next, cut the grooves in the shelf for the shelf pins. Thatt easyto do.Just raise your table sawblade for aVt"-deep cut, adjust the rip fence to position the first groove, and passthe piece over the blade. Reset the fence for the second groove, and then make another pass. This is a good time to cut a groove in the other face of the shelf for the acrylic 'ttop" panel. Allyou have to do is raise the blade for al+"-deep cut, reset the rip fence, and make another pass. While you're at it, cut the groove in the bottom panel to receiveits stop, too. Drill the Pin Holes - Now it's time to drill holes in the face and back panels for the shelfpins. You need these holes to align, but remember that the face is offset. Thatt not a problem. Just set the face panel on edge atoP a couple of 7+"-thick spacers.Then stick the backpanel to itwith double-faced carpet tape (Fig.1).
7+" shelfpin holes, /a" deep
DOOR
(3/q" ply.x 101/e" x293/ta")
2" No-mortise
EDGING DOOR
(%" ply.x 3/c" x 293/'to")
(3/+" x21/+"x101/2")
You can NOTE: a freeset Next, lay the taped pair down so the download plans at of builder's backpanel is on top, and markwhere WorkbenchMagazine.com the holes need to go. You can use the grooves in the shelf to do this (fig. Z).
46
}t*
F*.
*B"
Now drill the holes using a Va"bit. A benchtop drill press makes it easy,but you can make do with a hand drill.Just drill all the way through the backpanel andV+" into the front panel (fig. S). On to Assembly -After drilling the pin holes, you can drill pocket holes in the top and bottom panels. The buildert drawings show exactly where they're located. Then assemblethe messagecenter, with the face again resting on spacersfor proper positioning (fig. +).Add glue, and then drive in the pocket screws. Add an Easy Door -While the glue sets up, cut the door to size. Itt made from3/+"plywood. The rabbet at the bottom of the door gets cut next by making multiple passesat the table saw. First, clamp or tape a protective face to your saw's rip fence. Leftover plywood works great. This lets you put the fence right against the blade without tearing up the fence or dulling the sawblade (fig. S).
FF- F"
Raise the blade for aL/+"-deep cut, butt the bottom of the door against the fence, and then make a pass.Now move the fence r/s" away from the blade and make another pass.If necessary, make a third passto complete the rabbet. That done, rip ar/+"-thickpiece from your leftover solid stock to make edging for the door. Now glue this strip to one edge of the door. Wide tape works great to hold it in place (fig. 6). Once the glue dries, attach the door to the cabinet with no-mortise hinges. (Seepage 18 to learn more about them.) Then stain and finish the messagecenter to match your cabinets. Stops, Dividers, & Details-Now you can add the acrylic stops and dividers. The stops just get cut to size. The dividers get cut from Vz"-tlick stock. We made short ones for the bottom and a longer one up top. Once they're cut to size, drill shallowholes in the back edge, and then glue in small magnets (fllustration, rrgh).
Installation-All that'sleft now is to cut the galvanized steelpaneland stickit to the wall cabinetwith spray adhesive. Then drive in pocketscrews to mount the message E center. - Written byD aveStone, illustrated byMatt Scott, projectdesignedby James R. Downing
SHELF STOP ('/e" acrylicx 3" x10lz")
TALL DIVIDER (1/2" x1s/e" x6") .%" Rare-earth I Maonet olued lo"-hole, " int-o
l/a"-deep
'lla" groove, 7+"deep
SHELF PIN (1/e" brass x 1")
( a
SHELF (3/+" xnl7/a" x10Vz")
a ( ( v a (
I ll
I I I \)d l/e"grooves,
v
47
SECTION A-A
Attach unit to cabinet with pocket screws here and bottom frame
1/4
1/4
30
1/4 x 14 rabbet used for door opening
12
1 of 4
Message Center
Issue 310 | Volume 64| Number 6 |
December 2008
1/4" setback accomodates cabinet construction
0.250000
0.250000
1/4" rare-earth magnet
1/8" acrylic fits into 1/8 x 14" deep groove in shelf
1/2" divider 2" no-mortise hinges
2.750000
1/8 x 1" pins fit into 1/8 x 1/8 groove on bottomside of shelf & 1/8" holes in case sides. cup hooks for keys magnetic catch serves as door stop
1.500000
1/8" holes 3/8" deep Backside of existing cabinet
Galvanized metal glued to cabinet end
Pocket screws used to secure unit to cabinet
3/4" plywood 1/4 x 1/4" rabbet along bottom, back edge of door 1/4 x 3/4" solid wood edge band
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$ilN[!
You don t have to be a master chef to appreciatecooking applianceswith modern convenience'The days of electric ovens with coil burners are gone, replacedby steam ovens and induction cooktops. Simple controls and fail-proof cooking modes make high-tech kitchen to the rest of us. appliancesaccessible Of course, convenience and high-end style often price tag. But come with a somewhat less-accessible the good news is that some of the technology has already started to trickle down to appliance brands you're familiar with. Others give you something to look forward to as thev become readily available. Plus, innovation isn't limited to products that are large, expensive,and only appropriate as part of a maior kitchen remodel. We've also included several smaller cooking appliancesyou can use in your own kitchen right now. It doesn't hurt that applianceswith convenient settings and features often look great, too. They can give your kitchen a custom look with unique colors, sleekcontrol options, and hidden elements.When sophisticatedlooks are combined with custom cooking features,these appliances can make the kitchen your favorite room in the house.
48
2oog DECEMBER woRKBENCH
If you've done much cooking or baking, you've probably done so with a conventional oven. And you mayhave noticed that foods cook differently on different racks. Thatt becauseheat isn t being distributed evenly. Convection ovens put a spin on the ovens you're used to. Their fans circulate air to keep the heat constant throughout the ovens. This speedsup the transfer of heat to food, cutting down your cooking time. True convection ovens, also known as "European" or "third-element" convection ovens, have a heating element placed near the fan to facilitate cooking. This even cooking does come with a higher price, however. You can find standard, freestanding rangesfor less than $500, but freestanding rangeswith convection ovens often start at more than $1,000 for a basic model. The MasterChef Single Oven from Miele ($3,5+9, Miele.com) shown in the Photo,above right., is one example of a true convection oven. It boasts an LCD display and automatic temperature settings. Even microwaves can offer the convenience of convection cooking. The KitchenAid Architect Series II Microwave ($1,049$ L,149, KitchenAid.com) shown above combines convection capability with the convenience of a microwave hood. Of course, convection isn t the only innovative cooking technology. Gaggenau'sCombination Steam and Convection Oven ($4,949, Gaggenau. com) has the advantage of convection, plus steam cooking that helps keep meats and vegetablesmoist during cooking. KitchenAid uses steam in its Built-In Ovens with Steam Assist Technology shown on page48 ($2,799 -$4,399, KitchenAid.com).
49
"Even gettn toasters their ontheactwith options." unique color
Thinkyour cooking appliance color choices are Iimited to white, black, bisque, and stainlesssteel? Think again. Some folks prefer that their cooking appliancesstand out instead of blending in with the rest of the kitchen. Companies
are making appliances that seem to be inspired by the crayon box. Of course, style is secondarywhen it comes to kitchen appliances.Thereb no sensein buying a highend appliance if it doesn't offer the features to justify it. Luckily, many offer great cooking options to go with their bold looks. If you're looking for an oven that offers both, perhaps "Orange Hearth"' will filIthe bill. That color is available on wall ovens from TurboChef, shown in the Photo at left (Single Wall $5,995, Double Wall $7,895, Turbo Chef.com). If an orange wall oven isn t your thing, the brand offers more than 200 customized colors.Just be sure you
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kitchen color, however. Small appliances can make their own markwith shades to match any color scheme. KitchenAid already offers stand mixers in many hues. The company's toasters are now getting in on the act with unique color options like "Empire Red," featured on the two-slice toaster shown above ($eO;. These brightly colored appliances create some serious competition for the recent staple of kitchen design: stainlesssteel. Having made the jump from commercial kitchens to home applications, stainlesssteel has been the preferred way to give your kitchen a high-end look. It's still featured prominently in many major appliance brands' collections, however, and its style versatilify puts it on many homeowners' wish lists. And when appliances come in stainlesssteel combined with bright accent colors, it createsa look that's both sophisticated and eye-catching.
pick one you can live with: Special shadescome with an extra charge. The Bertazzoni Professional Series Gas Range shown on page 48 ($4,299, B ertazzoni -It ali a.com) is a range that also packs a powerful punch. The companybranched out from the usual plain-Jane kitchen colors with ranges in unexpected shades like yellow, green, and burgundy. (The available colors varyby model.) You don t have to spring for a new range or wall oven to get your own splash of
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50
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Sub-tlnnnl*Bold and bright appliances aren't for everyone. For many people, the kitchen is much more than just a place to.cook. Itt also a place where the family gathers, where kids do homework at the table, or where you can entertain guests.For those uses,you may not want to emphasize the kitchen's cooking functions. Luckily, there are products that blend seamlessly with countertops and cabinets to create a unified look that feels like home.Innovations have made appliances that need to be easily accessible, like cooktops, as inconspicuous as possible. Seamlesskitchen design gets a boost from products like the subtle 36" Electronic Touch Control Cooktop ($ 1,469-$1,519,JennAir. com) shown above. The cooktop features touch controls instead of knobs, making cleanup a snap. A built-in sensor monitors and adjusts the temperature. Warming drawers are another possibilify for "hidden" appliances.Th.y can be lifesavers when you're cooking for a crowd - especially if you have a single oven. When one dish is finished cooking, just place it in the warming drawer, and use the oven for another dish. The drawers are also practical for a family on the go. You can leave dinner in the drawer, so it won't have to be reheated.Plus, the drawers are designed to prevent moisture loss in your food. Many of the drawers also look great and are designed to blend in with the surrounding cabinetry. The IntegratedWarming Drawer from Dacor ($975, Dacor.com), below left, is an example of awarming drawer that won t steal the spotlight in your kitchen. It keeps your foods at the temperature you desire and features a simple electronic control panel. After looking at these subtle appliances,it seems that the Electrolux Dual Fuel Freestanding Range ($2,599, ElectroluxAppliances.com), below, is meant to make a bold statement. But its Wave-Touch control panel offers an elegant way to simplify cooking. Just touch the screen to select your options, and watch as all of the settings fade away except the ones you've chosen.
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51
-fu "Try nction thismu lti red ifyou're iance tr appl ofthedrive-ihrough."
I4rilttpJenoices
It seems that multitasking is the name of the game in modern life. Why should our cooking appliancesbe any different? Plenty of large appliancesallow you to complete multiple tasks at once, but now smaller applianceshave more than one function, too. You'll be able to cut down on the time and energyyou spend doing dishes and cleaning appliancesand surfaces. For example, ifyou're tired of making the morning run to the drive-through, the 4 Slice Egg & Muffin Toaster from Back to Basicsshown above ($qO, FocusElectrics.com) will help you get your breakfast fixwith one machine. The extra-wide slots can accommodate bagels and muffins, and the egg cooker can poach two eggs at the same time. Tried-and-true applianceshave multiple features,too. It's not always a good idea to try to improve on a classic,but when it comes to the trusty Crock-Pot, innovation is a winner. The VersaWare Pro ($85, CrockPot.com) has removable stoneware that can easily be used on
s
a cooktop or in an oven or microwave. The stoneware is also dishwasher-safefor easycleanup. The slow cooker's timer practically does all the work for you. You can set it to automatically switch to "warm" after a certain length of time. If you're entertaining and need to cook severaldishes at once, the Crock-Pot Trio Cook & Serve shown below ($SO; offers individual temperature settings for each ofits cookers. Another advantage of multi-function appliances is that they savespacein your kitchen. That virtue can be shared by larger appliances. The Cooktop+Microwave Drawer Oven ($t,0gO$1,800, SharpUSA.com) is a perfect solution if you're not crazy about the idea of an over-the-range microwave but don t want to take up more spacewith a countertop model. And with a ceramic cooktop right on top, the unit works great for homeowners who want to simplify their kitchens with appliances that perform cooking double-duty. Now if only it could do the dishes foryou, too...
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52
-t
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When innovations hit the market, itt not uncommon to think they're frivolous. After using them, however, we wonder how we ever lived without them. Take the Lift Oven from Gaggenaushown below ($3,++9, Gaggenau.com), for example. It solves a problem we all face when cooking: moving heavy dishes in and out of the oven without getting burned. The oven features a ceramic base that lowers itself right down to countertop level, where you can load it up with your dish. Another modern convenience, induction cooktops, may seemlike space-age technology, but the concept has actually been around for quite awhile. The cooktops have only taken offin the past few years thanks to new developments and lower prices that have made induction cooking attainable for more homeowners. The secretis electromagnetism. A powerful electromagnet transfers energy to your pot or pan. Other items placed on the cooking surfacewon't be heated. The drawback is that only certain types of cookware will work with these cooktops. Iron or steelpans
will work, but don't try aluminum, copper, or Pyrex.

The limit on cookware types can causesome frustration for homeowners who have already invested in a set of copper pans, for example.One solution is to purchase a cooktop that offers both induction and electric burners, like the Induction Hybrid Cooktop from Electrolux ($t,Zgg $ I,999, Electrolux.com) This cooktop features both induction burners that can boil water in as little as 90 seconds and conventional electric burners that work with any pots and pans. Another cooktop that offers cooking flexibility is the Expressions Collection Modular Electric D owndraft Cooktop fromJenn-Air ($ 1,199). The appliance
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allows you to add accessories to suit your needs.EWrittenby AlyssaSchmitt
53
IN DOOR BINDS THE JAMB OR WON'T CLOSE ATALL WHEN TRYTO YOU IT SHUT
HINGES S Q U E A KN -O MATTER HOW MANYTIMES YOUAPPLY OIL TOTHEM
DOORKNOB KEEPS COMING (AND LOOSE GETTING ITS WOBBLY)ON SPINDLE
WON'T LATCH INTHE CATCH PLATE, STRIKE THE CAUSING DOORTO SWINO GPEN
i___
NEW CARPET INA ROOM THE CAUSES DRAG DOORTO THE ALONG FLOOR
54
Whether it'sa doorthat won't shutor a knobthatwon'tstay put,yourhome's passageways present plentyof frustrations. Luckily, there's no reason to callthe handyman if you have a dilemma. Instead, see this listof ourtop tipsfor...
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Several of my home's doorknobs areloose. Howcan| fix them?

Doorknobs are typically secured to a spindle with small set screws. When these set screws work themselves free over time, the knobs lose their connection with the spindle and become loose orwobbly. Luckily, fi"irg this particular problem is easy:You just need to position the knobs on the spindle as tightly as you can by hand and then use a screwdriver or Allen wrench to retighten the set screws. Of course, theret no guarantee that the screws won't just come loose again in a few months, which is what often happens. We found that applying a bit of Loctite Threadlocker Blue on the threads of the screws put a stop to this. The product, which is available next to the adhesives at most home centers, is made to hold screws in place securely, even after months of use. Plus, the "blue" type of Threadlocker is removable, so the set screw will still come out if you ever want to remove or replace the knob.
55
M y h i n g e s q u e an ko howmuchoil matter I p u to n t h e m . A n y suggestions?

Squeakydoor hinges aren't a home emergency,but they sure can be annoying. And few things are more frustrating than oiling all your home's door hinges, only to have the doors begin squeaking again a fewweeks later. There are a couple of reasonswhy this happens. First, many people oil the hinges while they're still in place, which doesn t really get oil between the gaps in the hinges to the source of the squeaking. Second, they often use a penetrating oil, such asWD-40, instead of the proper lubricant. To fix the problem, itt best to disassemble the hinge completely. Take a few extra minutes to pop the hinge pin out, 'and then completely coat both the pin and hinge holes with lubricant. On our door, for example, we had to take the hinges offto plane the edge,so it gave us a good opportuniry to fully lubricate the hinges. Make sure to choose a silicone or Teflon lubricant, or a 3-in-1 oil made for generalhousehold use. This should keep your hinges squeakfree a lot longer.
M y d o o r b i n d si n i t so p e n i n g . How can I get the door to close?

Doors can bind for severalreasons,but three causesare the most common. We'll present solutions for each of those issueshere. If it appearsthat the door is binding in the jamb along its top edge, then you'll want to take a look at the upper door hinge. Oftentimes, this hinge works itself loose and pulls away from the jamb. In that case,remove the existing screws from the hinge, and then drive in longer screws in their place. These longer screws should bite into fresh wood in the studs behind the jamb to secure the hinge and keep it from pulling free from the jamb again. Sometimes the bottom edge of the door, rather than the top edge, is binding. Then you'll want to take a look at the bottom edge on the hinge side of the jamb. This part of the jamb can pull away from the studs,which causes the door to bind. When faced with this problem, hammer large finish nails into the loose part of the door jamb to snug it back against the wall studs. Then fiIl, sand, and finishthe nail holes left behind by this repair. In many instances,though, itt not just one part of the door but the entire edge that binds in the jamb. Often the problem is so bad that the door doesn't just bind in the opening but won't close at all. If this is the casewith your door, it may be that the door was just too large for its opening to begin with. Of course,wood expands and contracts with changing temperatures and humidity levels, so a door that fits nicely in the winter may not fit so well in the summer. Regardlessof the cause,the best approach here is to remove the door from its opening, and plane the areawhere it binds. Then sand and spot-finish this planed edge. Once the finish dries, you can reinstall the door in its opening.
56
woRKBENcH DECEMBER 2oo8
Thelatch on mydoorwon'tcatch. lsthere a simple fixforthis?

Nine times out of 10, this is a sign that the strike plate that receivesthe door latch was mounted incorrectly. The latch and strike plate don t line up, so the latch doesn t catch in the plate - and the door doesn't shut. To fixthis problern, the first thingyou want to do is determine how 'bffl'You much the strike plate is can do this by marking the strike plate around the opening with a marker, and opening and closing the door several times. This will create a line where the latch is hitting the strike plate. If the misalignment between the two is %" or less,you can fix the problem by filing the opening in the strike plate a little larger. To do this, just remove the strike plate, clamp it in a vise, and use a file to remove enough material to accept the latch. If the plate is offby more thanVe",you maywant to physically move the mounted location of the strike plate to match the latch. The problem with this approach is the strike platet mounting screws have a frustrating tendency to "wander" back into their existing holes. To prevent that, glue toothpicks or golf tees into the old holes, and snap them off. This provides you with new wood to drive a screw into when mounting the plate. You also may need to enlarge the openingbehind the strike plate with a chisel.
l i n s t a l l ec da r p eitn a room, andnowthe doordrags. What should I do?

Sounds like you raised the level of your floor with the new carpet, so a door that once fit the spacenow sits too low. The onlyviable solution here is to take the door offits hinges and trim the bottom, so it no longer drags.This is a relatively simple procedure with a circular saw. Still, there are a few tips that will ensure a smooth, even cut on your door. First, run a few strips of masking tape along the cut line. This will help prevent chip-out along the line, making it much smoother. Also be sure to clamp a straightedge to the door to guide the saw. Finally, I always install a brand new blade in the saw when I'm getting ready to make a fine finish cut like this. Th"y only cost about $8 at the home center, and they're well worth the expense for a cut I'm going to have to look at every day. These precautions should help you make a smooth, straight cut and ensure a great-fitting door. E
- Written by Wyatt lrtly ers, ErichLage
www.Workbench Magazi ne.co m
storage cablnet
ake one look at thePhoto Wine make it easy chillers above, and you'll see that to properly store wineat this wine cabinet is as home,but theydon'toffer unique as it is functional. It offers all space for extrabottles or the spacemost of us would ever need to serving accessories. This store a stash of fine wine. At its center sits a compact wine c a b i n ep t u t si t a l li n o n e chiller. These have become a popular great-looki ng package. way to store a fewbottles at home and keep them at the right temperature. We chose an eight-bottle chillerby Sunpentown (WC-08; Sunpentown. com).It's small and affordable (about $100 from Target.com), but at roughly 16" Wx 20' D x 11" H, it would still gobble up quite a bit of counter space. Plus, it doesn't offer spacefor bottles you don t want chilled (such as red wines) or for glassesand all ofyour other serving accessories. That's why we decided to make this chiller just one part of a complete wine storage and serving center. Full-Bodied Features - Though the cabinet is built around the chiller, there are a lot of other features that
58
woRKBENcH DECEMBER 2oo8
NOTE: You candownload complete drawings withalldimensions builder's FREE atWorkbenchMagazine.com compartment stores Upper
serving accessories
NOTE: Upper compartment parts anddimensions are shown on page 63
CHILLER DIVIDER (7+" x14"x221/2") MDF
CASE BACK (7+" MDF x221/2" x28lz")
CASETOP (7q" MDF x231/c" x281/2")
CENTER SHELF (7+" MDF x l9") x 14"
CASE SIDE (7+" MDF x 18" x 24")
Simple, strong pocketscrews make
assembly easy
parts NOTE: Door and dimensions are shown on page 62
(Sunpentown Wine Chiller
Glass door panels let you see what'sstoredinside
BASE BACK (3/+" x8" x251/2") patterns NOTE: Full-size arch included withbuildert drawings BASE FRONT (3/+" x8" x27") BASE SIDE
(3/c" x8" x213/+")
make it work great. For starters, there are shelvesthat hold another ten bottles in addition to the eight that will fit in the chiller. For everyone but the most ardent wine connoisseur, that should provide plenty of spaceto keep all your favorite wines on hand. A generously sized shelf above the chiller holds wine glasses. And we made sure there's enough spacefor tall ones, such as champagne flutes. Up top, a separatecompartment provides a place to keep your bottle opener and other serving accessories. With its flip-backlid, there's plenty of room for serving right on top of the wine cabinet, too. Of all this cabinet's features,though, the one that really draws attention is the L-shaped doors. We made them
this way partially becausethey make it easierto reach in and retrieve wine bottles stored on the shelves.Plus, they just look really great when the doors are open. They're bound to impress your guests. And of course, everyone will also be struck by the unique styling of the cabinet. The main caseis painted in a bold red but could be painted any color that blends with your decor. No matter what color you choose, the paint contrasts nicelywith the base and top cornpartment that are made from naturally finished maple. Simple Construction - Good looks and great featureswouldn t mean much if the cabinet was too complicated to build, so we kept the construction straightforward.
You can get a good idea of how it all goes together in the Construction View above. To make it even easier to understand, you can download a complete set of free builder's plans at Workb enchMagazine.com. The main cabinet is really just a big box made from medium density fiberboard (Unf). MDF is inexpensive and easy to cut with a circular saw and a straightedge.You'll find help for that on our Web site, too, with a free article that explains how. We've even simplified the assembly process to ensure that all the pieces go together correctly. The interior goes together as a big "H." It gets attached to a back panel and is then used to help get the outer cabinet pieces lined up correctly for accurate assembly.
59
Also mark the top and bottom of each panel. This ensuresthat you won't get them mixed up, and you'll cover up the pencil marks when you paint the case. No-, following the builder's
4
Becauseeverything goestogether with pocket screws,regular wood screws,and glue, there's no complicated joinery at all. AII you'll need is a drill and an inexpensivepocket-hole jig, which you can get at a home center. Even those L-shaped doors are much easierto make than you might imagine.Thatt becausethey start out as simple flat frames. A router cuts the rabbet for the glass,and then a wing gets attachedto createthe "I-i'shape. And once again, it's all done with pocket screwsand glue. Finally, the upper compartment and baseget cut to sizefrom maple boards. We've even provided patterns online that make it easyto cut the arches in the basepieces.
fr f; A
Once you haveyour MDF, start Uy cutting all the casepanelsto size.You'll need a casetop and
drawings, you can prepare each panel for assembly.Start by cutting an opening in the back panel. The back of the wine chiller sticks out through this opening. That'sbecause on the chiller we used,the ventilation for the chiller motor is at the back. So we simply inset the caseback panel and poked the chiller through. It's a simple solution that eliminatesthe need for complicatedventing. Set up your pocket-hole jig, and drill the pockets in the back panel. They go along the edges. While you have the jig set up,,also drill pocket holes in the top and bottom panels.Thesewill be used to join the top and bottom panelsto the casesides when you put the cabinet together.
bottom, a caseback, chiller sides,and a shelf. That's it. You can seethe dimensionsfor all View those piecesin the Construction on page 59 and get even more details in the online buildert plans. I(eep in mind that those dimensions are based on using the chiller we specified. You may have to modify the plans if you choose a different brand or size. Because the panelsare similar in sizeand shape,itt a good idea to write their names on them. In upcoming stepsyou'll be drilling quite a few pocket holes, screw pilot holes, and holes for pins to hold the bottle shelves.
Huild the }\&mfra ffms*

Of course,before you build that base, you need a cabinet to attach it to. So itt time to uncork this project bybuilding the main case. All of the caseparts are cut from 3/+" MDF.It's sold in big sheets(49" * 97"). Andyou can get all the parts from one sheet,which sellsfor about $25. At about 90 pounds per sheet,MDF is heavy,so you'll want to have a helper when you buy and cut the sheet. If you don't have a way to haul a full sheet,though, there'sanother option. Most home centerssell MDF "handy panels"in24" x 48" sizes. That sizeis big enough to make any of the cabinetpanels. So you could buy five ofthose panelsand cut all the parts from them. You'llpay a bit more this way, and have more waste, but itt nice if you don t have a truck.
TWO:Glueand screw " H " a s s e m b lty o case back
ffi*t It Tergether notliinc; Thr,:re's tc,)u!iit,]h0ut a:serli:lrnq the {a5e,llilt follor,^,tirre thel sequenc* al. riglrl. niakes1t e;rsier.P;ii irt ti'ir:
I nt r{..1i' a}t{l (]Liler
NOTE: Makesurechiller sides arepositioned with shelfpin holes facingoutward
O N EG : l u ea n ds c r e w shelf to chilles r ides Center Shelf
asserlri:: lies cininq L r i : t n i je iilqethrf. ih6:n.r
60
woRKBENCH DEcEMBER 2oo8
Switch to a countersink bit (see "DlY Gear" on page 28) to drill pilot holes around the perimeter of the opening in the back panel. These are for screws that hold the center "H" section in place. You'll also need a pair of pilot holes in each chiller side panel. These screws will hold the center shelf in place. Nowyou can drill holes for the shelf pins that will hold the wine shelves.Thesepins are often used for mounting adjustable shelves.Even though these shelvesaren't adjustable, putting them on pins is a whole lot easier than having to screw them in place. Look at the buildert drawings again, and you'll seethat there are pin holes in the outer facesof the divider panels, and in the inner facesof the casesides.Make sure that you're working on the proper face of eachpanel asyou drill. The easiestway to make sure you place all the holes properly and line them up is to lay out and drill the holes
in similar panels at the same time. The Photo on page 60 shows how this works with the chiller sides.Justlayboth of them side by side with their bottom ends flush. Then lay out the pin locations. Nowyou can drill those holes. Chuck al+" bit in your drill, and place a piece of masking tape around the bit V+"from the tip. This will work as a visual stop so that you can accurately drill the stopped holes. Then you can drill the holes in the casesidesusing the sametechniques. With that done, you can assemblethe case.The sequence is shown in the Illustrations below. But before you dive in and start putting things together, there are a few things you need to pay attention to. First, the inner structure and case back get assembledas a unit. Be sure to orient the chiller sides correctly. Then you can use this assembly to help position and squareup the outer case as you put it together. As you assemblethe outer case, again be sure that the sides are positioned correctly so that the shelf-pin holes will line up. But don t attach the inner assemblyto the outer caseyet. Instead, let the glue dry on the outer case,slip the assembliesapart, and then paint them. That's a lot easierthan trying to reach into the tight confines of the case.Once the paint dries,you can drive in the final few screws to complete the case.
FOUR:5lide inner assembly in temporarily to holdouter case square
THREE: Attachcasetop to sides with glue and pocketscrews
SEVEN: Position inner assembly in thecase using a 2x4asa spacer
EIGHT: Attach inner assembly bydriving pocket screws intocase sides
Case Top Bar Clamps
Case Side
is ls
FIVE: Attachcasebottom to sides with glue and pocketscrews
SIX:Remove inner assembly, and paint all partsof cabinet 2x4 Spacer
NOJE: Cabinet viewedfrom back
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\ t*-/ a hardware store). To hold the glassin place, you can make glassstops orpicksome up in the molding aisleat the home center.Cut the stops to fit, and
Wf,.n the paint dries, insert the grr* iyo,r.u'get rr cut to srzeat
Add On the Doors

To wrap up the main case,you need to build the doors. As you can see in the D oor ConstructionView b elow, each consists of a frame that holds the glass and a hinge panel that sits at a 90" angle to the frame to complete the "L" shape. Start by cutting two pairs of door rails and two pairs of door stiles to size, as well as two hinge panels. Instead of making the doors from MDF, we used poplar.It's strong and takes paint very well. Once the parts are cut, you can set the hinge panels aside for now. To complete the door frames, join the door rails and stiles together using pocket screws.
Next, rout a recessin each door frame to receivethe glass.To do this, use a router and a Vz"rabbeting bit. Set the bit for aVz"-deepcut. After routing, use a chisel to squareup the corners. Now drill pocket holes in the hinge panels, aswell asholes for the door pulls. We tsed 73/+" bronze pulls (#A8 10; AtlasHomewares. com). Then glue and screwthe hinge panelsto the door frames. Unlike the other pocket holes on this project, theseholes would reallv showwhen the doors are open. To prevent that, we filled the holes with a hardening putty before painting the doors. Let the putty dry, and then sand and paint the doors.
then paint them. We installed them using dabs of silicone adhesiveinstead of nails. That way, they can be removed should the glassneed replaced. The doors are mounted to the case with no-mortise hinges (*Z8f,S}; Rockler.com). Mount the hinges to the doors, and then hold the doors in placeto markthe screwlocations. Drill those screw holes, and you're set to mount the doors.We did add a dab of epoxy to the screws that go into the casesides.That gives a bit of extra holding power in the MDF.
Build the Top and Base

With the casecomplete, all it needs is the upper compartment and a base. The top compartment is a simple assemblymade from soft maple that's once again assembledwith pocket screws.It features a flip-up lid that rests atop the compartment when open so that it staysout of the way (Compart-
I]" Hinge ----- No-Mortise (#28688;
----==--'-
DOOR RAIL (7+"x3"x9")
ment ConstructionView,page 63 ). Start by cutting the compartment two sides,a baclg a
panelsfront HINGEPANEL (3/+" x53/'to" x24")
lz ' \
DOOR STILE (3/+" x3" x24")
top panel, a lid top, and a lid to size.That done, you can drill
pocket holes as shown on the builder's drawings.You'll also need to drill mounting holes in the lid front for a pull. Now glue and pocket screw the compartment back to the compartment sides.Then position the top panel so that the overhangs are even on each side.It's a good idea to use a couple of clamps to hold it in place as you drive the screws.Also glue
(#A810; Pull Door AtlasHomewares.com)
GLASS STOP (Y4" xY2"x cut to fit)
DOOR GLA55
(cut to fit)
62
WORKBENCH DECEMBER2OOs
and screw the lid front to the lid top, making sure once again to maintain the proper overhangs. That done, you can apply clear finish to the compartment and the lid assembly.We applied two coats of an oil-based polyurethane. The urethane protects, and the oil gives the maple a warm glow. Once the finish dries, mount the compartment to the case.First, set the compartment in place so it's centered side to side and flush with the caseback. Mark its location with masking tape, and then remove the compartment. Now drill holes through the casetop - two for each side panel, and two at the back. Set the compartment back in place, and drive in screws from below.
F
To make the base,start by cutting the front, back, and two sides to size.While you're at it, cut the bottle shelvesto size,as well. Now you can lay out the arches. Note that there are slight differences in the position of each arch. That way, when the base is assembled,the "legs" appear to be the same size from the front and side. To help keep this all straight, label each part, and then use the full-size patterns we've included in the buildert drawings (Photo, above). the hinges to the lid, and then lay it on the compartment in its open position. Rest the hinge knuckle on top of the compartment, and then mark and drill holes for the other two hinge screws. Finally, drive them in (Photo, above). Drill pocket holes for the screws that are used to assemblethe base and to mount it to the cabinet case.Make sure that you position thesepocket holes on the inside face, and that you position them on the proper end of each side panel, as shown in the builder's drawings.
\ \J doors. We found it easiestto mount
Now the hinges can go on. th.t're the same no-mortise hinges used on the cabinet
-r-----------.--.---.Door Pull (#A810;
AtlasHomewares.com) -/ LID FRONT (3/c" x6"x27") LIDTOP

(3/q" x7" x281h") Lid overhangs front by 7+"
(J .X f,.-t
arr.mble the base,and then apply two coats of finish. You can finish the bottle shelves, too. Lay
COMPARTMENTTOP (3/4" x6rsA6" x28Y2")
the entire cabinet on its back, and then drive in the screwsthat attach the base.
Stand the cabinet upright again, and COMPARTMENT then insert the shelf pins and shelves. BACK
(3/q" x6"
2" No-Mortise Hinge (#28688; Rockler.com)
x25Vz")
Now itt time to move the wine cabinet into its place in your home and slide in the chiller. Then you can load
11l"Pocket ! lScrew /
#8 x 2" Fh-----
the cabinet up with wine and accesCOMPARTMENT sories, and you'll be ready to celebrate SIDE your accomplishment! E
(3/q" x6" x 1212")
by Dave Stone,illustrated by Erich Lage, project designedby Mike Donovan
-Written
63
S O
R A
Q H
G B
D E
F F I C
M J
1 of 12
Wine Cabinet
December 2008
28 1/2
37 3/4
FRONT VIEW
31
4 4
3/4
24
BACK VIEW
NOTE: USE 2" NO-MORTISE HINGES
1 1/2 7
27
2 of 12
Wine Cabinet
December 2008
12 1/2
1 1/2
RIGHT SIDE VIEW
24
30
TOP VIEW
3 of 12
Wine Cabinet
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18
14
3/4
3/4
4 5/8 4 5/8 4 5/8 2 22 1/2
24
11 7/8
4 5/8
NOTE: ALL CASE MATERIAL 3/4" MDF
CASE SIDE LT
18
CASE VERT. DIVIDER LT

14
3/4
3/4
HOLE 1/4" DEEP 8 PER PANEL

C
24
22 1/2
NOTE: HOLE PATTERN MIRRORS
CASE SIDE RT
5mm SHELF PIN
CASE VERT. DIVIDER RT

5 of 12
Wine Cabinet
December 2008
19
4 3/4 3/4 NOTE: SHELF SAME MATERIAL AS BASE AND TOP.
14
14
CASE FIXED SHELF
BOTTLE SHELF (8)

NOTE: ALL HOLES DRILLED AND COUNTERSUNK FOR #8 X 1 1/4" WOOD SCREW
NOTE: ALL CASE MATERIAL 3/4" MDF
28 1/2
3/4 4 3/8
19 22 1/2 3/8 11 1/2 5 3/4
5 3/4
CASE BACK
4 3/4
6 of 12
Wine Cabinet
December 2008
28 1/2
3/4
7 1/4
23 1/4
7/8
H
9 7 3/8 2 3 8
NOTE: ALL HOLES DRILLED AND COUNTERSUNK FOR #8 X 1 1/4" WOOD SCREW
CASE TOP
28 1/2
3/4
23 1/4
NOTE: POCKET HOLE SPACING SAME ON CASE BOTTOM
4 3/8
CASE BOTTOM
7 of 12
Wine Cabinet
December 2008
25 1/2
3/4
J
BASE BACK
2 1/4
2 1/4
27
3/4
K
BASE FRONT
4 3 2 1/2
21 3/4
3/4
L
BASE RT
7 R2 3 2
2 1/4
21 3/4
3/4
M
BASE LT
7
2 1/4
8 of 12
Wine Cabinet
December 2008
14
SECTION VIEW
3 1/4
SECTION VIEW
19
4 10 1/4 3 7/8 4 3 7/8 3 7/8 3 7/8 3
11 1/2
4 of 12
Wine Cabinet
December 2008
12 1/2
3/4 5 NOTE: ALL BASE & TOP MATERIAL 3/4" MAPLE
TOP SIDE LT
28 1/2
3/4
TOP HINGED PANEL
28 1/2
3/4
6 15/16
TOP FIXED PANEL

9 of 12
Wine Cabinet
December 2008
12 1/2
3/4
TOP SIDE RT
25 1/2
NOTE: EVENLY SPACE POCKET SCREWS
TOP BACK
27
3/4
TOP FRONT
10 of 12
Wine Cabinet
December 2008
15
W
9
V V V W U
24 18
V W
W W
NOTE: DOOR MATERIAL 3/4" POPLER NOTE: FILL ALL POCKET SCREW HOLES ON DOORS BEFORE PAINTING.
3/4
V
1/2
3/16 19 5
24 3/4
1/4
9 3 1/4
9 1/2 2 1/2
1/2
DOOR RAIL (4)
DOOR STILE (4)

1/2
SECTION G-G
11 of 12 December 2008
Wine Cabinet
1/2 9 3/4 1/8 1/4 NOTE: STOP MATERIAL 1/4" POPLAR. TO BE PAINTED
18 3/4
1/8" DOUBLE STRENGTH GLASS

Z
18 1/2 9 1/2
Y
1/2
GLASS STOP HORIZ. (4) GLASS STOP VERT. (4)
1/4
5 3/16
5 3/16
3/4
3/4
T
24 24
DOOR HINGE BOARD RT
DOOR HINGE BOARD LT

12 of 12 December 2008
Wine Cabinet
-1
want look in lfyou anew thebathroom, start bylooking A outsrdethe bathroom. furniture number ofreclaimed pieces and like tables, dressers, into sideboards can bechanged just great-looking vanities with alterations. Here, afewminor you how wegatle we'll show new life old table and tothis offer tips ontransforming afew pieces offurniture, too. other
64
"$,"\..
bathvanlty
In this home center world, it can be difficult to find something unique for your home. This is especially true for the bathroom, where many of todayt factory-built vanity options look an awful lot alike. One way to break out of that mold is to use a conventional piece of furniture, such as a dresser,sideboard, or table, in an unconventionalway-by turning it into a vanity. Creating a "reclaimed" vanity offers a lot ofadvantages. You get a one-of-akind look that just can't be duplicated by any store-bought item. Since you're reusing a piece that would otherwise probably end up in a landfill, itt a "greener" way to improve your home. Whatt more, the conversion is fairly straightforward: Usually it just takes a few minor alterations to accommodate the sink and plumbing. For our own reclaimed vanity, we went with a vast departure from the typical look by using an antique table. As you can see at left, we did a number of things to make this table more "vanity-liker" such as installing a modern-looking sink and faucet, removing the back legs in order to mount the vanity directly against the wall, cutting a section offthe tabletop to make a backsplash,and creating a unique painted finish for the legs. Over the next few pages,we'll give you an in-depth look at our own vanity transformation. We'll also offer a few design options on page 69, in case you're interested in trying these techniques on a different piece of furniture.
65
Sink ( D e c o l a# v1 4 2 5 - C W H )
f'=":----i1 i , " ' '
------\ Faucet
\ \ --_--..
i, xti
(Price Pfister #042-VGCC)
Backsplash (formedby ripping a piece from the tabletop) 2" Screws S i n kO p e n i n g Tabletop----'Crossmember (cutto fit between cleat a n df r o n ta p r o n )
Mounting Cleat (cut to fit between s i d ea p r o n s )
/
Side Apron I Chrome / Plumbing Fittings
FrontApron False Drawer Front (removedfrom existing drawer)
NOTE: Backlegs removed from table
The first consideration for creating a reclaimed vanity is, of course, finding just the right piece of furniture. Good places to look include flea markets, architectural salvagestores, antique stores, garage sales,and the Habitat for Humanity ReStore, if your community has one. Once you've selectedyour piece, you'll want to pick out a sink and faucet, as well as any accessories, to go along with it. There are a couple of lines of thinking here: If you go with an older piece of furniture, for example, you might want to choose a traditionalJooking sink and faucet style to complement it. Another interesting approach, however,is to selectmore modern fixtures to contrast with the antique style of the vanity. We chose a contemporary sink and faucet to go with our old table, to interesting effect. Workbench project designer Mike Donovan found this old table at a local antique store. From Table toVanity-
The tabletop maylookbeat-up to some, but Mike saw the unique potential in its weathered patina. Paired with a sink from Decolav and a faucet from Price Pfister, he knew it would create a perfect blend of classicand contemporary for our bathroom makeover. Check the Size -With any vanity conversion project, one of the first steps is to check the height and depth, and determine if you need to cut the legs or top to reduce either one. We needed to reduce the depth of our table. But at the same time, we wanted to retain its great look as much as possible.A good compromise ended up being to cut down the top and then use that cutoffportion as a backsplash behind the sink (lllustration,above). While we weren't ready to cut the top down to size just yet, it was important to make all these considerations up front, as they affectedthe placement of the sink. Once we had the final size of the top
determined, we could use the paper template that came with the sink to determine its position. Doing so was as simple as setting the template on the tabletop and fixing it in position with masking tape. Therl we used a drill equipped with a spadebit to bore holes at opposite corners of the template. These holes give you a place to
66
woRKBENcH DEcEMBER 2oo8
insert a jigsawblade for cutting out the opening. After that, it was just a matter of cutting across each side of the template, following along the lines (F6. 1). This cut doesn t have to be perfe6 asthe edge of the sinkwill hide any small imperfections in the line. On ourtable, we had to remove the drawer and drawer guides in order to position the sink. Later on, we used the drawer front as a false front on the table.
Once the back legs were removed, our vanity needed a sturdy mounting point, so it could be attached to the wall. This came in the form of a 3/+"-thick cleat that we added to the assembly, sandwiched between the two side aprons. The cleat is made from solid stock, and it just gets ripped to width and crosscut to length. The cleat then gets mounted between the side aprons with pocket screws. Look carefully atFig.3, and you'llnotice a few additional pocket holes along the edge of this cleat.
Later on, theseholeswill be usedto reattachthe tabletop. We alsoaddeda pair of crossmembers on either sideof the sink that sit betweenthe front apron and the cleatto further stabilizethe structure (Illu stration, left). Like th e m ounting cleat,theseareheld in placewith They alsohavepocket pocket screws. holesfor securingthe top. At this point, we turned our attentionbackto the tabletop and the backsplashwe planned to createfrom the cutoffback edge of this top.Atable sawwith outfeed support wasreally the best tool for cutting the top in order to createthis (fig.4),but a circularsaw backsplash and a straightedge would alsowork in a pinch.
With the sink opening cut, we were able to move on to the other modifications we had planned for this table: removing the back legsin order to mount the vanity directly againstthe wall, adding a new back apron that would serveas a wall cleatfor mounting the vanity, and cutting down the top to createthe unique backsplash feature mentionedearlier. We found that it waseasiest to separate the top from the apron and leg assembly for thesesteps. This was a simple matter of locating the screws holding the top to the apron and removingthem. After that, we removedthe back legsby unbolting them from the (fig. Z).Then we carefully assembly measured the sideapronsand cut them down to length to match the desired depth of ourvanity.
wwwWorkbenchMagazine.com
67
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the apron. Then we disassembled the drawer box, and reinstalled the drawer front by driving in screws from inside the front apron. At this point, we were ready to tt'+. '"t # remove our old vanity from the ,tr' ,g bathroom and install the new "; one. If you've never removed a vanity before, there are just a few important steps. First, you want to shut offthe water supply to the faucet. This is as simple as turning a couple of knobs on the flexible supplylines that lead up to each knob on the faucet. Next, disconnect the sink and faucet from the existing plumbing fittings. This includes the faucet supply fl Aft", making the table saw cut, ''!h, attaching the cutoffpiece to the *., ,.oi tabletop to create the backsplash was a simple matter of clamping the piece in place, countersinking pilot holes in the underside of the top, and driving in screws (fig. S). With the construction complete on the top and leg assemblies, it was a good time to finish them. We liked the agedpatina of the top, so we opted to leave it unchanged and simplypreserve it with a few coats of exterior polyurethane for moisture protection. We wanted to give the legs and apron a weathered look to match the top. To accomplish that, we painted them a light blue and then sanded back the paint after it dried, so some of the original brown color would peek through in places. With the finishing process complete, we reattached the top to lines mentioned previously, as well as the trap beneath the drain in the sink. Now remove any caulk between the vanity sink or counter and the wall ir*
with a utilityknife. Finally, find the screws holding the vanity to the wall, and remove them. Your vanity should come right out. Installing the new one is as simple as locating the wall studs, and driving long screws through the mounting cleat and into these studs. Set a level on the countertop to help you position it before driving in the screws (rig 0). Now it's just a matter of mounting the sink and faucet, and connecting them to their respective plumbing fittings. You'll start by mounting the sink, which is accomplished by running a bead of plumber's putty, caulk, or silicone sealant around the opening (your sink installation manual will tell you which product to use), and then setting the sink in place. Usually a bead of caulk around
68
,1 .'-
the rim of the sink is also desired after installation. As long as you didn t move the vanity too far from the location of the old one, you should be able to use the existing plumbing fittings. If you're moving the location or installing the vanity in a new location, you'll want to consult with a plumber before trying to move around any pipes yourself. The one issue that comes up a lot when replacing a vanity is a change in height between the old sink and the new one. For the faucet, most supply lines are flexible and long enough to accommodate different heights. For the drain trap, though, you may need to purchase additional fittings to
complete the connection between the trap and the sink. Since the plumbing is exposed beneath our vanity, we used chrome fittings instead of PVC. These cost a bit more but don't present any unique plumbing challenges.If your existing vanity was plumbed with PVC, itt a good idea to take the fittings to the hardware store. They can help you find chrome ones to match. Now all that was left was accessorizing our vanity with towels, hooks, that's truly one of a kind! and other items to create a bathroom tffi-
Wr itten by Wyatt IvIy ers, illustrated by
Matt Scott, proj ectdesign by Mike D onovan
Vanity Possibilities-from Endless traditional to modern

(below A table isn'tyour only option for creatinga vanity.Several other possibilities are shown below.Dressers and sideboards left),forexample, are similarin sizeto most vanitiesand readilyavailable at antique stores. The major consideration here is finding one the proper height (usually around 30")and depth to accommodate the plumbing.Speaking of plumbing,you'll probablyhaveto removeor modify some of the drawersto make it allfit. for taking it in a totally different lf you decideto go with a table as the basefor your vanity like we did, there are possibilities direction (belowright).One option shown here featuresa table with lockersunderneath it for storing toiletriesand other bathroom necessities. The other is similarto ours,but featuresa more modern table ratherthan the antiqueone we chose.
69
personalized
PHOTO FRAMES
70
woRKBENCH DEcEMBER 2oog
Nothingdrqwsthe eyein a roomquitelike aframedphoto.But thephotosthemselues don't haue to bethe only thingsthat capture attention.Theframescanalsobea way to complement your home's styleand add character. Whenit wastime to decorate theframes for thisproject,wefound thatplacemats were perfectbecause thry come in just aboutany coloror patternyou want.
he frames we created for this project are very simple: If you can cut wood to size, then you shouldn t have any trouble making them. The frames are made from two assemblies- a front frame and a smaller back frame - which are then glued together with the joints offset for extra durability. Since the front frame pieces are2" wide, while the back pieces are just LVz"wide, they automatically create a recesswhere a piece of acrylic, your photq and art board backing can rest, held in place by turnbutton s (Photo,righ).If you d like an even closer look at the construction of the frames, you can seefree, detailed b uilder's drawings at Workb en chMagazin e.com. Simple Supplies -You'll need 7+"-thick maple pieces (sold as "hobby stock") for all of the frame parts. You might have to rip it to the correct width if you can t find it pre-cut. AV+" wood dowel keeps the frame upright on the table, or you can use a sawtooth picture hanger to turn it into a wall frame. You can cut the acrylic needed for the photo coverings to size or get it cut at a home center.Wood glue and the placemats of your choice complete the supply list. If you d like to use a dowel to hold your picture frame up on a table, you'll need a drill with aL/+"bit. You'll also want to have wide tape to help hold the frame together as it dries, and small clamps to keep the drying pieces in place. Scrap boards and paint cans will also come in handy for keeping the placemats flat after gluing them to the frames. One of the best t h i n g sa b o u t t h i s project is that it doein't requireany hard-to-find supplies. You can get attractive placemats at just about any storethat sellslinens, and many of them are inexpensive.We found some for as little as $2 at a discountretailer.
\*
71
A personalizedframe is theperfect placeto dkplayyourfavorite vacation Here,, we'll showyou how to assemble a photo. Theplacemat wechose to frame for a 5x7photo. We'vealsodeveloped several other sizesand styles,and decorate this framewasmadeup of those builder's drawingsareavailable at stripsthat worked perfectly to cover the WorkbenchMagazine.com. just cutsome edges oJtheframe.We of theextrastripstofit,Ieavinguswith a 1l Startby cutting the parts for the clean, proJessional edge. largerfront framefrom V+"-thickmaple.
First, cut two 2" xl0Vz" vertical rails. Then,cut two 2" x4Vz" horizontal rails. 2l When all of the front rails are cut, you canwork on the backrails. Cut two
LVz"x8" horizontal rails,and then cut two llz'x 7" verticalrails. 3l Ifyou're going to add the dowel for settingthe frame on a tabletop, measure 4" from the end and3/+" ftom the bottom of one of the 8"-long horizontal back rails.Mark the spot, and then drill a Y+" hole. 4l The next stepis putting the rails together,startingwith the front frame. We useda unique process to do so,with tape to hold the piecestogetherasthey dry. Positionthe two horizontal rails betweenthe vertical rails, and then pull the tape taut over the seams to hold them, asshowninPhotoAon page71. 5l Nowyou canglue the rails together,with the horizontal rails still in position betweenthe vertical ones. The tape makesthis possiblewithout misaligningthe pieces. Bend the rails apart asshown inPhotoB. The rails will still be attached by the tape.Apply glue down the length of the seam,and then bend the rails backto sandwich the glue in the seam. Then repeatthis procedureto glue the rest of the seams. 6] Put tape over the other faceof the newly glued seams, so that all of the seams arecoveredon both sides. This will pull the frameflat and keep the rails in place.Now repeatthe entire process for the backframe,this time attachingthe vertical railsbetween
72
WORKBENCH DECEMBER2OOs
the two horizontal rails. Then let both frame assembliesdry. 7] Remove the tape from both 'frames when the glue is dry. On the front frame, measure Y+"from each outside corner, and mark the points in the corners where the measurements meet. Apply glue inside the marks as shown inPhoto C. Center the back piece with the corners on the marks, then use small clamps to secure the pieces (nhoto D). Wipe any excessglue away,and let the assembly dry. 8J Once the glue is dry, you can apply the placemat covering. To attach the placemat, cut two pieces of scrap plywood to the same measurements as your frame to serve as the clamping plates.You'll sandwich the frame and placemat between these plates. Lay the placemat facedown on one of them.
9] Apply glue to the front frame face using a foam brush (nhoto E), and then set the frame on the placemat. If your placemat has a pattern, make sure you line up the frame as shown inPhoto F. I0l Put the other clamping plate over the frame, and evenly distribute weights, such as paint cans, on top to ensure good adhesion (Photo G). 1 1l After the glue dries, cut around the frame edgeswith a knife (Photo H). If you use fabric placemats that fray when you cut them, coat the ends with clear-drying glue or liquid seam sealer. Finish the frame edgeswith leftover placemat strips, or paint them. l2l Now all thatt left is getting the frame ready to display. Install turnbuttons on the back of the frame, lay the acrylic piece into the frame, and then secure the photo in place with art board backing. Put the 7+" dowel into the hole, or attach a sawtooth picture hanger to make it a wall frame. Either way, you can display it alone or with others to create a focal point. m Writtenby AlyssaSchmitt,project designedby lames R. Downing
Half the.funof this project isfinding placematsthat both complement your homeand makeyour photosstand out.Youcanbuyplacemats madefrom mdry differentmaterials, suchasstraw, and eventwigs.Wefound faux leathert that placemats with alot of texture madethe best-looking frames.
4 x 6 Frame
1/4
TOP VIEW
1/4
1/4 2 7
1 1/2
3 1/2
1/4 1 1/2 6
9 1/2 1/4 1/4
1/4" offset
1/4 2
1/4 3 1/2 3/4
FRONT VIEW BACK VIEW

1/4" hole for support dowel
SIDE VIEW
BACK VIEW
1 of 4
Picture Frames
December 2008
5 x 5 Frame
3 1/2
4 1/2
1/4
11 1/4
3 1/2
1/4
11 1/2
3 1/2
1/4 3
5 1/2
3/4
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Picture Frames
December 2008
5 x 7 Frame
1/4
TOP VIEW
1/4 1/4
1 1/2
4 1/2
1/4
10 1/2
1/4" offset
FRONT VIEW BACK VIEW
SIDE VIEW
1/4" hole
BACK VIEW
3 of 4
Picture Frames
December 2008
Triple 4 x 6 Frame
1/4 18 1 1/2
1/4 6 1 1/2 1/4 1 1/2 1 1/2 1 1/2
1 1/2
1/4
BACK VIEW
1/4
TOP VIEW
1/4
18 1/2 2 2 14 1/2 2 1/4
2 9 1/2 1/4" hole 5 1/2 3 1/2 3 1/2 3 1/2
BACK VIEW
FRONT VIEW
END VIEW
4 of 4
Picture Frames
December 2008
Coffee
with
)r0rage
in ifyou think stci'age and styie can'r caexisi your iiving r00m, This think again. caol cafiee features table solid hardwcod ccnsiruciion anc aninnrvative, easy-to-buiitj lisqeiiercLis design. isweii-utiiized srze i:oth !ow: above antbe --* twofarstrira,je i-our otiomails anc ilvofor
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the typical living room. And when you have a house full of guests, there are never enough places for everyone to sit down. This generous-sized, innovative coffee table solves both problems with flair. The secret is a unique construction that allows you to utilize the large area below the tabletop. You can stow four purchased ottomans (*tOO548Zt and #10702159 from Target.com) underneath. The woven rattan storage ottomans hide plenty of living room clutter, and the faux leather ottomans can be pulled out whenever occasional seating is needed.
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woRKBENcH DEcEMBER2oos
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TOP TOP EDGING
(1h" x11/2"x42") (3/c"ply. x 411/2" x 41 1/2")
Aside from its storagecapacity,this coffee table will also add beauty to any room with its clean design and warm oak finish. While similar tables sell for up to $11000,you can create this piece for only a fraction of that. Best of all, theret nothing difficult about the way this table is constructed.Just follow our step-by-step instructions and diagrams, and you'll be finished in a weekend. Construction Overview - For an overview ofhow the storage coffee table fits together, take a look at the Illustration at right. As you can see,the squaretop is made from a single piece of oak plywood, and reinforced by a frame made from poplar strips. The frame adds sturdiness and rigidity to the top and beefs up the lookwith a thicker edge.It just gets glued and nailed to the underside of the tabletop, and then the edges are covered by oak edging strips. Construction of the X-shaped base is equally straightforward.It is made up ofthree parts: a long center piece, and two wings that are glued into centered grooves on each face ofthe center piece. All the parts are made by gluing two pieces of oakplywood face to face.This ensures that you will end up with goodlooking plywood on both facesof the base.Oak edging made from solid stock covers the four base ends that face out. After all of the pieces are constructed and finished, you'll attach the tabletop to the base with figure-8 fasteners. Online Tips & Plans-You can find a complete set of plans with measurements for this coffee table at WorkbenchMagazine.com. Print them out, and then we'll walkyou through the construction process through photos and illustrations on the followingpages. On ourWeb site, you will also find an article about how to cut sheet goods with a circular saw. A table saw (or circular saw), a router, and a drill are the onlypower tools required to build this table. For supplies,youwill need red oakplywood l+" xlVz" solid red oak edging, 1x4 poplar, spray adhesive, wood glue, sandpaper,figure-S fasteners,corner braces,polyurethane finish, stain, and flat black spraypaint. Construction begins with the table base.You can start by BASEWING (2layers ply. of 3/q" x183/+" x1BTz") BASE EDGING
(1/+" x11/2"x181/2")
#8x3/c"
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hole, 70"-dia. 1/e" deep
BASE CENTER (2layers ply. of 3/c" x3BYz" x 181/2")
Figure-8 Fastener
cuttingthe sixpieces that make

up the base center and wings from plywood (you will be working with three pairs of pieces). But instead of cutting the pieces to exact size, cut one
76
To cut each groove, use a router equipped with a 32" straight bit and a straightedge to guide the router. The groove will need to match the thickness of two pieces of 3/+" plywood, so you will have to make two passesto achieve the correct width. Start by measuringto determine the location of the groove. Then set up your router and straightedge,so the bit aligns with the left layout line of the groove. The bit will remove the first half of the groove piece in each pair V+"longer and wider. This makes it easierto glue the pieces together later on, since you don't have to worry about aligning the edges.Then you can just trim the pieces to their final dimensions. Now you're ready to glue the pieces up in pairs to form the base center and wings. We recommend using spray contact adhesivefor this (Fig.la).It will prevent the pieces from sliding around on each other, as well as the "squeezeout" that is common with wood glue. Spray adhesive on the back face of each pair. Lay the larger panel good face down, and then put the exact-sizepiece on, making sure there is a slight overhang all around it. The spray adhesive will grip instantly, so you won't have to use clamps or wait for dry time. To trim the pieces to final size,use a router equipped with a flush-trim bit (Fig, tb).tthas a bearing that rides along the edge of the exact-sized piece, so it guides the cutter to trim the oversizedpiece to the same size. No- the centerpiece of the base needsa groove cut in eachface to acceptthe basewings. These width. Start your router, and make a pass(Ftg.za). You'll need to make a secondpass to establish the full width of the groove. Rather than hasslewith moving the straightedge for this cut, just tape a scrap of 3/+" plywood to the edge of it to establishthe proper spacing (f ig.Zb). Then make another pass,and test-fit one of the wings. If it's necessaryto make a third pass,shim the scrap of plywood with playing cards. Repeat this processto rout the groove in the opposite face. Nowyou can glue t/+" edgingto the outside edgesof the center piece and wings. Use wide painter's tape to hold the edging tightlywhile the glue dries. When the glue has thoroughly dried, rout a 7+"roundover on both sidesof the edging.
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grooves are important becausethey help lock the base together, but they can be challengingto createbecause they must be perfectly straight and the correct width to acceptthe plywood.
77
TABLETOP BOTTOM VIEW

FRAME END (3/+" x3"x41Vz")
FRAME FILLER (3/c" x3" x'l6Vq"\
Then rip the seven poplar boards that will make up the frame to width. This will give them clean, straight edges. The Illustration at left shows how the frame pieces will be positioned Nowitt time to glue and nail the frame pieces to the underside of the tabletop. Turn the tabletop facedown on a work surface. Cut the two frame ends to length. Carefullyglue them down on opposite edges,making sure the ends and edge of each are flushwith the tabletop. Drive in a few brads to help hold them down as the glue dries. Nowyou can cut the three frame rails to fit, as well as the inner two frame fillers. Dry-fit allfive pieces, and then glue and nail them down (Figs.3a and 3b).
TOP (3/q" x4'11/2" x41Y2")
With the base complete, you can turn your attention to the tabletop, which is even easier to build than the base.As mentioned earlier, it's nothingmore than aplywood
piecewith a wood framebeneath it. Solid oak edgingstrips coverthe exposed edges ofthe top and the frame. Begin constructionof the tabletop by cutting the oakplywood to size.
The oak edgingthat goesaround the tabletop is the samethicknessand width asthe edgingfor
the base. It's important that the ends of the edging pieces meet precisely to create clean, gap-free corners. We used an easymethod for achieving this
78
without havingto makea miter joint. This simply involvedleavingthe edging piecesextra-longwhen we glued them in place,and then cutting them flush when the glue wasdry. Don'tworryifyou dont own clamps long enoughto hold on the edging pieces when you gluethem. Paintert tapehasenoughholding power to make a totally acceptable substitute. ' Startby gluing fwo edgingstrips on oppositesidesof the tabletop. Be sure to keepthe top edgeof the strip flush with the faceof the tabletop,but let both endsextendbeyondthe corners. After the glue hasdried flush-cut all four endsof the edgingto length with a fine-cut handsaw. Now glue on the other two edging pieces,alsoallowing them to extend beyondthe corners(fig.4a). When the gluehasdried, cut them flash (Fig.+b). The last stepis routing a roundover around the edging.Equip your router with a roundoverbit, and rout counterclockwisearoundthe tabletop (fig. +). Repeatthe process for both edges. Then lightlysand all of the edgingsmooth.
You'vefi nishedconstructing the baseand tabletop,so now it's time to apply the finish.Just stainandvarnishthe tabletopandbase asyou wish. For the table shown,we used"Candlelite"gelstainfrom Gen(GeneralFinishes.com), eralFinishes followed by a clearpolyurethane topcoat.Let the finish dry overnight. Now all that'sleft is putting all the parts together.We found a couple of unique types of hardwareto help with this. To hold the basewings to the centerpiece,we usedchair corner braces. ThesearelVz"x 1112" steel bracketsfor reinforcingfurniture.We couldn't find them in a colorwe liked, sowe gavethem a coupleof coatsof flat black spraypaint.When they're dry, attachthe braces at the top and bottom of the baselegs(Photo, page76). That just left attachingthe tabletop to the base. We usedfigure-8fasteners for this. Th"y offer a fast and secure way to attachtabletopsto table aprons,or in this case, a base. These fasteners are about LVz" longwith a %"-wideside and a 7+"-wide side. To install the figure-8fasteners, use a %" Forstnerbit to drill a %" recess into the top of eachbaseleg. The Forstnerbit will allowyou to extendthe outer edgeof the hole slightlybeyond the end of the baseleg.Now secure the largersideof the fastener into the hole with a screw. The smallerhalf of the fastener will extendbeyond the base leg asshownin the Photoonpage76. Finally,drive anotherscrewthrough this side of the fastener into the tabletop from underneathasshownin the Fastener D etailon page 76.H - WrittenbyLouise Ritchhart,illustrated byErichLage, projectdesignedby Kent Wekh
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Applyinga freshcoat of paintto datedcabinets is a hands-on way to transform a b o r i n gs p a c eA . nd unlike most kitchenupdates, this one won't makeyou drain yCIur bankaccount.
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oo often, kitchen cabinets look worse for wear after years of scuffs and sticlcy fingers. In other kitchens, the cabinetsare perfectly acceptablebut miss a huge opportunity to add color and style. Fortunately, if your cabinets function fine but just don't look great, painting them can changethe look and feel of your entire kitchen. Paint can revive a dreary spacewith bold, rich color, turn back the hands of time by covering damage,or increaseyour homet value for a modest investment. In the following pages,we'll walk you through all the steps necessaryto achieve a professional-looking, longlasting paint finish on your kitchen cabinets.While the process may take a few days,it doesn't take nearly as long as installing new cabinets.And because painting costs so little, you can enjoy the fact that you're saving thousands of dollars over the cost of new cabinets.Itt the ultimate sweat-equity proj ect. First, though, you'll need to determine if your kitchen cabinets are good candidatesfor painting. They must be structurally sound. Solid wood, woodveneer,metal, and previously painted cabinets take paint well. But cabinet doors and frames coveredwith plastic laminate or melamine can't be painted becausepaint will not adhere properly.
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83
UNIQUE CHALLENGES
Painting kitchen cabinets differs quite a bit from painting walls. Surface preparation is the most time-consuming part of the process,but itt critical to your project's success. That's because kitchen cabinets take a lot of abuse on an ongoing basis. They're opened and closed countless times every day, often with oily or greasy fingers. They reside in a room where the air can be very dry one hour (when the oven is on) and veryhumid the next (when you're steaming veggies on the stovetop). These changescan wreak havoc on paint finishes. To achieve a finish that will look great for years, start by making sure all surfacesare completelyfree of grime and food residue. Remember that even
in the cleanestkitchens, cooking leaves an invisible film just about everywhere. To remove it, take offthe cabinet doors, and lay them flat on a work surface. Remove all hardware, including hinges, knobs, and pulls. Nowyou can mix a solution of TSP Substitute (Dap.com) andwash the doors, cabinet frames, and drawer fronts (fig. l).It's important to thoroughly clean the cabinets nowbecause sanding will grind any greaseor grime into the surface. Rinse all surfaceswith clean water, and allowthem to dry. SAND, FILL, & SAND AGAIN Whether your cabinets are painted or stained and varnished, theywill now need to be thoroughly sanded. Using a sanding block with 150-grit paper, lightly sand all of the cabinet surfaces (fig. z).While this might seem a bit tedious, it's important to give the primer a surface that it can adhere to. After sanding, itt easierto notice any nicks, dents, and scratches.Fill these with a hardening, multi-purpose filler such as Bondo (3M.com), which is availablein home centers.Justmix the putfy and catalyst according to the manufacturert directions, and apply it with a putyknife (Fig.S). Oon t mix more than you can use in a few minutes - it hardens quickly. If you will be installing new hardware, fill the mounting holes, too. Allow the filler to dry, and then sand (Fig.4). Vacuum offas much dust as possible, and thenwipe down the surfacesusing a rag dampened with mineral spirits or a crumpled-up tack cloth.
Beforeyou startpaintingrbe sure to protectsurrounding surfaces. Cover the floor with a drop cloth, and use painter's tapeto maskoffthe ceilingand wallswherethey contactyour cabinet frames(ri1.5).
84
PRIMED FOR PERFECTION time to prime.Ifyou're tempted to skip this step - don t! Primer forms a better bond to surfacesthan paint alone, and in a kitchen's demanding environment, paint needs all the help it can get. Select a good-quality, interior oil-based primer. Oil-based paints and primers are preferred for kitchen use becausethey're more durable than water-based ones, which soften when exposed to heat or oil. It's also helpful to stir in a paint conditioner, such as boiled linseed oil or Penetrol (Flood.com), for oil-based primers and paints. These help reduce brush marks and leveling problems, giving you a smoother coat. A conditioner also makes paint easierto apply because it extends open time. The container will tell you how much to add. If your cabinet doors are perfectly flat, you can apply the primer with a roller. For a smooth finish, use a roller wIthl/4" nap -longer nap leavesan orange-peellook. Ifyour cabinets have raised panels or molding, you Nowitt
will need to brush on the paint. You'll find tips and an illustration on how to paint frame and panel cabinet doors at Workb enchMagazine.com.
APPLYING THEPAINT
You've created a good foundation, and nowyou can start to seeyour kitchen come back to life as you apply the color ofyour choice. It might be tempting to try to flow on one heavy coat and be finished. But to achieve a lasting cabinet paint job, it's necessaryto apply at least two thin coats of paint. As you roll paint on the doors, maintain a wet edge to reduce roller marks (fig. A). Then switch to a sashbrush to paint the cabinet frames (fig. Z). Follow the structure of the cabinets as you paint, and keep a wet edge where horizontal and vertical pieces intersect. Allow the first coat to dry and then lightly sand all surfaces with 400-grit sandpaper.This will reduce any imperfections and help your next coat of paint adhere better. Wipe offall dust, and then apply the second coat.
W H E N S A N D IN GFA IL S Occasionally, an existing layer of latexpainton cabinets will become loose asyou sand. Youmighteven that be ableto peelit off.Thismeans the paintisn't welladhered, andyou won'tbe ableto just add new layers you of painton top of it. In thiscase, will needto applypaintstripper to get downto barewood.Then wash, sand, applyprirner, andpaintin the samemanner we havedescribed.
After your last paint coat has dried, sand lightly again, and roll on.a polyurethane topcoat. This final clear coat will give your cabinets the smoothest possible finish. Polyurethane also improves durability becauseitt more scratch-resistantthan paint. After the topcoat has dried overnight, reassemble your cabinets, and reattach your bxisting, or new, hardware. Then step back and enjoyyour tm kitchent dramatic newlook. Written by Louise Rttchhart
LIST: SUPPLY
.TSP Substitute . Bondo multi-purpose filler . Interior primer oil-based . Interior paint oil-based enamel . Penetrol paintadditive oil-based . Clear polyurethane topcoat . Bucket & spongeor lint-free rag . Roller covers with th" nap . Paint roller andpan . 272" paint brush synthetic-bristle .150-grit and400-grit sandpaper . Sanding block . 2" painter's tape . Puttyknife . Dropcloth
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A Top
B Top Edging C Frame Rail D Frame Filler
E Frame End
Figure-8 Fastener
F Base Edging
G Base Wing
H Base Center
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December 2008
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1/4
A Top
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COUNTERBORE FOR FIGURE 8 FASTENER
18 1/2
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G Base Wing
18 1/2
F Base Edging
18 3/4
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1 1/2 1/4
18 1/2
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GRAIN DIRECTION VERTICAL
H Base Center F Base Edging
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December 2008
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J Squishy Sander
I Hand sanding is ahnost fun witl-rthe Gator Zip Sander. I Th" sott foarn grip, compact size,and versatileshapemake I it perfect for a variety of sanding chores.EachZip Sander I Multipack inciudes the sander and six sheetsof hook-anclI loop sandpaperin three grits. g:t 0 ) rnrcr MoRE: ZipSander.com I rEAnN I o1800-255-4748
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Start the shower and walk awaywithout wasting a drop of hot water thanks to Evolve showelheads. These unique shor.,v'erheads use patent-pencling technology to slorv the flow to a trickle when the water reaches95 degrees. Then you simply pull a cord to resulne full flow rvhen you enter the shower. The result is lesswater u'astedwhile you take care of morning multi-tasking.
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Creating an accent wall - that is, treating one wall differently than the others - is an easyway to give any room a dose of style. For a very modest investment in materials, accent walls can rescue architecturally challenged, shoebox-shapedrooms. To make one in your home, you'll have to decide which wall in your room should get the special treatment. A solid wall without windows or doors works best. Askyourself where you want to draw attention becausean accent wall will become the roomt focal point. You can choose the wall behind the largest piece of furniture in the room, like a bed or sofa, or accent the wall people see first when they enter the room. Whichever wall you decide on, just be sure to choose a treatment that complements your roomt unique style. Here are three possibilities to get your imagination going.
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geometric lines Theclean wallfit perof thisaccent fectlyin a roomthat'sall aboutprecision. lt'smade with 72" x 8" MDFor poplar boards that aresimply nailed to the wall (besure to hit the studs). Oneinchremovable spacers (Diagram,below) makeit easy to position the boards. Accent wallsthat feature horizontal stripes likethis one helpmakea smallroom "Westminster appear wider. paintfrom Benjamin Gold" Moore finishes our cheerful sewingspace.
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You canalmost hear the wolves howlin thisroom inspired bynorth-woods ltsboldaccent wall cabins. isa twistontraditional rd-and-batten boa siding (often "barn called siding"). The11V+"-wide rough-sawn cedar boards with alternate 172"-wide battens thatare installed to cover theseams. Although board-and-batten siding usually runs vertiyoucanalso install cally, it horizontally. Weapplied Cabot Interior Wood Stain give in"Peppermill"to this timeless walltreatment a fresh look.
96
woRKBENcH DEcEMBER 2oo8

Workbench Magazine 310-2008

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EDITOR'S NOTES

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Kitchen Message Center

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2OO8 WORKBENCH DECEMBER

The No-Sand Refinish Floor Wood

Over the Fence

reported a who homeowners problem contractor with akitchen

who looked attheir homeowners

semi-custom;l:iJffi i,.X#'" home. What elements do you love? :il[::*"J;'flffi':,',".T:iri:::lilf,

DEcEMBER 2oog woRKBENcH

It's a hole new animal.

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BOX: BRAD: CASING:

Main Supply Duct

WORKBENCH DECEMBER 2OO8

Avoid Hazards That Come

Product Information Number 280

RULES E N S U RY EO U ' R E A FEW SIMPLE

DECEMBER 2OO8 WORKBENCH

KEEP THINGS DRAINAGE SYSTEMS

Drain troughs mount to

Dry Under a Deck

Simple Steps Revamp a Lamp

WHATAREMY OPTIONS IN FLUORESCENT BULBS? COMPACT

WORKBENCH DECEMBER 2OO8

Seasonal Window Seal

Product Information Number 172

KEEPAIR MOVINGWHENYOU ADD

l n s u l a t i oc na nb l o c k airflow from soffit ventsinto attic Airenters attic-----/ throughsoffitvents

DIY Math Made Easy

Product Information Number 183

EASILY WITHA MOLDINGS CUTSHORT

Special Hinge Simplifies Cabinetry

GASGO WILLLAWNMOWER THEWINTER? BADOVER

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2OO8 WORKBENCH DECEMBER

LEAD GETTHE OUT

NO.GUESS PICTURE POSITIONING

,io eosy. Renting. Sosmort,

Assodnin Ineixn Reitd

LADDER MOBILE EXTENSION

ASSEMBLY EASY CASE

o f L a u r e lH i l l , D a v eP r e s t o n on F l o r i d as , a wt h e b r a c k e t s project our "PerfectPergola" ( A u g u s t2 0 0 8 )a n d r e a l i z e d t h e y c o u l d e a s i l yb e m o d i fied into bracketsfor lumber

Exposed Garage Stud

A R MS U P P O R T (11/2" x287/s") x51/2"

2OO8 WORKBENCH DECEMBER

PERFECT PILOT HOLE

Askfor it at Sears, AceHardware, Menardt,or wherever youbuyyourtools.

soft in diameter througl-r and hardwoods.

with aqgressive cuttingand tip. a fast-starting

Drill Bit Basics

MASONRY A hardened steel or

2OO8 DECEMBER WORKBENCH

CCo 'f r . I Several new products claim to restore

You should renew when....

You should refinish when....

2OO8 DECEMBER WORKBENCH

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