December 2004

Tides
Observations Driving forces: gravitational pulls of moon and sun Equilibrium theory of tides Reality: dynamic tides, tidal patterns, confined basins Impacts and applications
Anchorage AK: 12m range December 2004

San Francisco CA: 3.5m range December 2004

Panama City FL: 1.4m range

Tides: Daily patterns

1. Semidiurnal: two tidal cycles per day

Tides are
Periodic, short-term changes in the level of the ocean at a particular place An example of a wave phenomenon
a forced wave: never escapes the influence of the disturbing force A shallow water wave: influenced by ocean bottom

2. Mixed. Two cycles, uneven heights

Caused by the balance of gravitational forces (from moon and Sun) and the Earths motion Complicated!
Equilibrium theory: on water-covered planet Dynamic theory: in real world: continents, varying ocean depths, and other complexities

3. Diurnal. One tidal cycle per day

Important! Not just for navigation but for ecology, power generation, other.

Simple equilibrium model of tides

Driven by balance of gravitational attractions (moon, Sun, Earth) and centrifugal force Explains semidiurnal pattern and relationship with phases of the moon Does not explain actual observations at most places Examples show Earth-moon system here, but same principles will hold for the Sun

Tides: driven by gravity and centrifugal force

Equilibrium theory of tides

Gravity

Gravitational tide force

Magnitude is proportional to mass and distance
Varies inversely as the cube of the distance between objects Thus moon >> Sun in importance Outer planets have negligible impact on tides

Tides: gravity and centrifugal force

Equilibrium theory of tides

Centrifugal force

Effect of moon is about 2.5x the effect of the Sun Not constant over Earths surface - in either strength or direction (see previous slide)

Gravity and centrifugal force

Centrifugal force
Consequence of rotation of Earth-moon system around the systems center of mass
(Not around the Earths center)

(net effect called tractive forces)

Equilibrium theory of tides

Together:The earth-moon system

Constant in strength and direction over Earths surface Balances gravity over Earth as a whole, also at Earths center, but everywhere else an imbalance with gravity The imbalance drives tidal motions

Tides: gravity and centrifugal force

Side facing moon: gravity > centrifugal force = tidal bulge Side away from moon: gravity < centrifugal force = tidal bulge

Tides and the Earths rotation

Tides: Cycling with the lunar day

High tides: tidal bulges Low tides = tidal troughs Lunar day = one rotation of moon around Earth ~24 hours, 50 min. High tide 50 min later each day

Tides: The moon and the sun together

Spring tide

Neap tide

Tides: the moon and the sun together

Spring tides: when the moon and the sun are in the same plane
-full moon and new moon (twice each month) -highest high tide and lowest low tide = largest tidal range

Tides: The moon and the sun together

Spring tide

Neap tides: when the moon and the sun are at 90 degrees
- first and third quarter moons (twice each month) -lowest high tide and highest low tide = smallest tidal range

Neap tide

Tidal patterns: spring tides & neap tides

Tides: now it gets complicated!

Orbital variations of moon and sun
-angle of moon to equator -angle of sun to equator -distance to moon -distance to sun

Dynamic theory of tides

-effect of topography and shape of ocean basins -Coriolis effect

Effects of confined basins

resonance

determines latitude of tidal bulge

Declination

Moons angle to equator varies - each month it passes from max north position to max south. Max north and south are 23.5 5 and that varies on about 19-yr time scale.
http://www.co-ops.nos.noaa.gov/restles4.html

Tides in an ocean basin: Amphidromic system

Orbits are elliptical, not circular, and distance to Sun and moon also vary
http://www.co-ops.nos.noaa.gov/restles4.html

Tides respond to Coriolis effect: they veer right as they enter basin, and hug shore on right (in NH) as they circulate Circulate around a point of no rising/falling motion: Amphidromic point

Dynamic theory of tides

As Earth rotates west to east, the tidal bulge is forced against the western edge of the basin. It piles up, and causes a pressure gradient. Water flows downslope and is deflected to the right by the Coriolis effect. Deflection causes water to build up against the southern edge of the basin. The resulting pressure gradient causes currents to reverse, and flow northward. Water is deflected toward the eastern side of the basin. Circulate around a point of no rising/falling motion: Amphidromic point
Result: rotary system flowing counterclockwise within basin

Dynamic theory of tides: Rotary flow

Tidal circulation: Amphidromic system

Tide movie based on satellite data

Lines indicate time of high tide (hours) Tides progress around basins, counterclockwise in N hemisphere and (clockwise in S hemisphere)

Motion is complicated! Counterclockwise in NH Southern Ocean , W. US examples

Amphidromic system
Tides rotate around fixed nodes Points of no tide = amphidromic points Cotidal lines connect points where tides are synchronous Corange lines on some maps (fig 8.9 in book) show lines of constant range
Range increases as you move away from an amphidromic point

How fast do tides move?

Shallow-water wave speed: C = d0.5 (m/sec) where d is depth For mean ocean depth of 4 km, C = 198 m/sec = 444 mph What happens in deeper or shallower water?
Speed variations; wave refraction

Tides in confined basins

Increase tidal range (the difference between high and low tide) Examples
--Bay of Fundy, Canada (tidal resonance) --Northern Gulf of California, Mexico

Bay of Fundy: map

2.416

Tidal bores - wave of water moving upstream - result of high-tide crest entering confined inlet

Bay of Fundy tides

Gulf of California

Extreme tides (10m or more) found where small marine basin adjoins large ocean
Bay of Fundy, Nova Scotia Gulf of California

(in most places, tides are 1-2 meters in range)

Large tidal range - up to 8-9 meters Semidiurnal - a lot of water in motion!

Tidal bore: Severn River, England

And you thought bores were boring

2.452

A wall of water that surges upriver with the high tide; requires large tidal range, confined basin, and shallowing depths

http://www.mellowwave.co.uk/images

Tidal ecosystems

Tidal ecosystems

Rise and fall of tides creates stressful environments for intertidal marine organisms

Others take refuge in tide pools, where water remains even at low tide

Tidal rhythms in ecology

Grunion come ashore in spring tides of spring and summer Females lay eggs, males deposit milt to fertilize Eggs develop for ~10 days in sand, until the next spring high tide washes them back to the sea

Tidal energy
Requires large tidal range (5m) and a constricted flow path into a large confined bay/estuary

http://www.cabrilloaq.org/grunion.html

Electricity is generates both on ebb and flood tides Bay can be closed off to control outflow

La Rance, France oldest and mst successful site. Generates power for about half the tidal cycle.

Long-term tide changes

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