Bucharest

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BUCHAREST
August - September 2013
The Transfagarasan Highway

Driving Romanias best-known road
Old Town Bucharest

A look at Bucharests most vibrant entertainment district
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Contents
Restaurants
Where to eat 40
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Nightlife 60 Clubs, bars, pubs and the like Sightseeing

What to see Where to spend your days 65 74 88
Contents
Bucharest Basics
6 Everything you always wanted to know about Bucharest and Romania, but were afraid to ask 11
Old Town / Lipscani

The heart and soul of the city
Arrival & Transport

Navigating Bucharest
Shopping
Where to buy your souvenirs
Culture & Events 16 Including Summer Well & the Taraf de Haiduks George Enescu Festival 2013 The Transfagarasan Highway
Driving Romanias finest road 20 Romanias most prestigious cultural gathering 28 30
Directory
Everything you need including foreign embassies, pharmacies and dentists.
90
Maps & Street Register

Northern Bucharest Central & Southern Bucharest Street Register & Hotel Map Index 94 96 98
Where to Stay
From palaces of gold to bargain sleeps
The mysterious world of the Romanian Monopoly board, which features some of the lesser-visited parts of Bucharest alongside its better known streets. Take a tour of the board with us on page 24.
Foreword
Where have all the people gone? Yep, its high summer in Bucharest and the citys population has decamped to the seaside. This, however, is very good news for visitors: it can often feel as though you have the city to yourself in August and early September, and Bucharest without the crowds and traffic is a very different place indeed. We will not go as far as to describe the city as peaceful and relaxing, but the summer vibe is infinitely preferable to the hustle and bustle that dominates the rest of the year. If you have come looking for a bit of nocturnal action, however, do not fear: there are still some very lively places to head for, even in August. The Old Town is not the least of them; see you there. We love to hear from our readers: maybe you disagree with us, or maybe you think we have left out a venue or attraction that really should be included. Whatever you think, drop us a line at: editor@inyourpocket.com.
Bucharest In Your Pocket Str. Stefan Burileanu 1-3 Bl. 21E, Sc. 1, Ap. 8 014191 Bucuresti, Romania Tel. (+4) 021 321 44 18 bucharest@inyourpocket.com
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
ISSN 1454-5276 IYP Romania Srl. Printed at MEGAPress SA, Bucharest (tel. (+4) 021 461 08 08/09). Published six times per year, up to 20,000 copies produced each issue. Bucharest In Your Pocket is a member of the Romanian Audit Bureau of Circulation (BRAT). Editorial Editor Craig Turp Photography IYP Romania Srl unless otherwise stated. Cover photo Emi Cristea/Dreamstime. com Metro map by Maximilian Turp-Balazs from an idea by Alexander Sirbu. Sales To contact our sales team send an email to bucharest@inyourpocket.com, or call our office and ask for the sales department. Copyright notice
Text, photos and maps copyright IYP Romania Srl 19992013 unless otherwise stated. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of its review, without written permission from the copyright owner. The trademark In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernadinu g. 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Cover story
The facade of the magnificent Coltea Hospital at (C-5) Piata Universitatii, with a statue of its founder, Mihai Cantacuzino, in the foreground. The hospital was the first to open in Bucharest, in 1704. PhotoEmiCristea/Dreamstime.com
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.
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Bucharest In Your Pocket
Bucharest Basics
Crime & Safety
We do not exaggerate when we say that Bucharest is one of the safest capital cities in Europe. Violent crime is rare and almost always carried out exclusively between rival gangs fighting for the control of territory in the citys less-salubrious areas. If you do not go looking for trouble, the chances of you getting into any are tiny. While pickpockets are everywhere (you should be particularly careful on crowded buses, and always watch your bag in busy pubs and clubs), petty thieves are by and large a cowardly lot in Romania and will run a mile at the first sign of any resistance. Knife-crime is unheard of, and even women can walk the citys streets alone at night in relative safety. The Romanian police force is also far better and less corrupt than it used to be and keeps a visual presence on the citys streets, especially in busy areas such as Old Town at night. The main police station in Bucharest is on B-dul Lascar Cartagiu (B-4), halfway between Piata Romana and Piata Victoriei. In a nutshell though, do not worry. Of all Bucharests many, many problems, crime really is one of the least of them. Just keep your wits about you, apply common sense and all will be well.
bucharestbasics Basics Bucharest

A brief history of Bucharest (2)
In January 1859, at the Hotel Concordia on Strada Smardan, Wallachias nascent parliament elected Alexandru Ioan Cuza as the principalitys new ruler. Given that the Moldovian parliament had elected the same man to be their leader a few days before, the vote at the Concordia in effect created the first state of Romania. Nevertheless, it would be another 19 years (and require another Russo-Turkish War) before Romania was officially able to declare itself independent of Turkey, in 1878. Bucharest grew - and flourished - during the reign of Carol I (1866-1914), Romanias first king. Electricity was introduced in 1882, and the city hosted a grand exhibition, Romania in the World, in 1906, designed to show how much progress the country was making. The Carol Park in southern Bucharest was built to host the fair. During the 1920s and 1930s Bucharest was one of Europes most dynamic cities, and architecturally one of its most avant-garde. Large numbers of art deco buildings were constructed around the city. The Lido and Ambassador hotels on Bulevardul Magheru, as well as the Telephone Palace on Calea Victoriei are just three examples of this new wave. The Bucharest we know today, however, is as much the product of the communist period, from 1944 to 1989, as anything. Bucharest was heavily bombed during the latter part of World War II (the old national theatre, which stood on Calea Victoriei, was one victim of this bombing) but in comparison with much of Europe, the city was relatively unscathed. The communist authorities therefore initially made their mark on the city not by changing it but by greatly extending it. The first major project was the district of Bucurestii Noi, constructed at the beginning of the 1950s. It was followed by the vast housing estates of Militari and Titan, huge dormitories for workers shipped in from the countryside to staff the newly created industrial platforms of Industriilor, Republica and IMGB. The citys population doubled from 900,000 at the end of World War II to 1.8 million by 1980. In 1977 the biggest earthquake in the citys history killed more than 1,500 people. The countrys best-loved actor, Toma Caragiu, was amongst those killed. Many buildings were destroyed or damaged beyond repair, and Romanias leader Nicolae Ceausescu took the opportunity to remodel the city in his own vision. By 1989 almost a third of Bucharest had been destroyed to make way for the new Centru Civic, the centrepiece of which was Casa Poporului, today known as Palatul Parlamentului. Construction on the Centru Civic began in 1984, and some parts remain incomplete today, lost in limbo. The enormous Casa Radio (A-5) on Strada Stirbei Voda is one such building. Bucharest was the scene of the heaviest fighting during the Romanian Revolution of 1989, most of which centred on Piata Revolutiei, Piata Universitatii, the TVR building and Otopeni Airport. Since the revolution Bucharest has continued to grow, although much of that growth has been outside the city limits. The population of the city proper in fact peaked in 2000, at 2.3 million: it is officially now down to 1.9 million (2011 census).
A brief history of Bucharest (1)

While there are traces of settlements around Bucharest dating back to the Paleolithic period, the city itself is in fact relatively new: mention of it is not made until 1459, as one of the residences of Vlad III (the Impaler), ruler of Wallachia. The exact origins of the city are therefore unknown. Folklore has it that a shepherd, Bucur, founded the city, but a more likely candidate is Radu Voda (also known as Radu Negru), ruler of Wallachia from c. 1290-1300. It was under Vlad the Impaler that the city grew to any real size, when it became the preferred site of the Wallachian court. This was based in what is today known as the Old Town, around the Curtea Veche. The city was sacked for the first time in 1476, by the Moldavian ruler Stephen the Great (Stefan cel Mare), and again by the Turks in 1554. During Mihai Bravus uprising against the Turks in 1594, Bucharest was all but destroyed in heavy fighting. It was not until the reign of Wallachian prince Matei Basarab in the 1640s that the city fully recovered, and the princely court rebuilt. Sacked again in 1655 (by the Transylvanians) Bucharest suffered plague and famine for much of the rest of the 1600s. It was the accession to the Wallachian throne of Constantin Brancoveanu in 1688 which changed Bucharests fortunes. Brancoveanu negotiated alliances with the Hapsburgs and Russians - keeping the Turks at bay while overseeing a cultural renaissance at home. It was during his reign that the Brancovenesc-style (a mix of the Renaissance and the Byzantine) so popular with the citys architects for centuries after first appeared. The Turks finally got the better of Brancoveanu in 1714: ordered to Constantinople to account for himself he was beheaded by Sultan Ahmed III. No longer trusting local Wallachian princes to serve their interests, the Turks instead appointed a long line of Greek administrators to rule the principality. Known as the Phanariots (they came from the Greek district of Constantinople, Phanar) they would rule over Bucharest until 1821. During this time the city grew in size and importance, despite regular disasters: both natural and man-made. The Austrian army occupied the city from 1789-91, there were major earthquakes in 1802, 1804 and 1812, while plague returned in 1813-14. As many as 40,000 people died in Wallachia during the plague. While still nominally a Turkish province, the Peace of Adrianople which ended the Russo-Turkish war of 1828-9 left Wallachia (and Bucharest with it) under Russian occupation. Fortunately, the general the Russians appointed to govern Bucharest, Pavel Kiseleff, was an enlightened man and a moderniser who during his 14 years in charge of the city (1829-1843) oversaw sweeping changes. He carved out new boulevards (one of which, Sos. Kiseleff, today carries his name), paved many roads, introduced running water and a sewerage system, did the citys first proper census, built schools and hospitals and centralised the citys chaotic fire-fighting service.
Dogs
Customs Regulations
While Romania joined the European Union (EU) in 2007, which should facilitate the complete, unfettered movement of goods between member countries, United Kingdom customs officers appear not to have noticed. As such you are only permitted to take 200 cheap cigarettes purchased in Romania to the UK with you (we feel obliged to point out, however, that you will be passing through the blue channel on arrival in the UK and the chances of being stopped are almost zero...). If you are travelling elsewhere in the EU, there are no limits on the amount of cigarettes you can bring home from Romania. Alcohol is likewise unrestricted. For those of you travelling outside of the EU when leaving Romania, you should check the import limits on fags and booze with your destination country before travelling. The export of some antiques purchased in Romania (especially old religious icons) is subject to the completion of tedious paperwork, although any reputable antiques store or dealer will be able to take care of this for you. Ask when buying if you are not sure.
It was once written that you couldnt swing a cat in Bucharest without hitting a dog (by us, in fact, in our first issue, some 14 years ago) and it remains true - up to a point. According to a census carried out by the city council last year there are still more than 64,000 stray dogs on Bucharests streets (64,704 to be precise), although the vast majority are found outside of the city centre. There are still some packs of dogs in the city centre (Old Town has its fair share of strays) but these tend to be less aggressive than those which live in the citys suburbs. However, the number of people being bitten each year in the city is rising. In 2012 more than 16,000 people were bitten by Bucharests strays, an increase of more than 30 per cent on 2011. Despite this, there appears to be little real urgency about any of the efforts being made to eradicate the problem. Indeed, to all intents and purposes the city council has washed its hands of the issue. Add in the fact that a large and vociferous minority of Bucharests citizens actually want the dogs to remain on the streets and it becomes clear that the problem will not be dealt with anytime soon. There are also a number of well-funded animal-rights NGOs which reject any proposal to rid the city of its dogs. Should the worst come to the worst and you are bitten during your time in Bucharest, present yourself at once to the casualty unit (Camera de Garda) at the Institutul Matei Bals, (D-3) Str. Dr. Calistrat Grozovici 1, tel. (+4) 021 318 60 90. The wound will be cleaned up, and you will be administered both an anti-tetanus and an anti-rabies vaccine (the anti-rabies injection is the first of a course three: the others must be done seven and then 21 days afterwards). You will also get a prescription for a course of antibiotics.
Left Luggage
Gara de Nord offers left luggage facilities, but no luggage lockers. You will find the left luggage counter next to the Relay press store, opposite the Wasteels office, a short walk from the platforms. The charge is cursory: 4 lei per small bag per 24 hours, 7 lei for a bigger bag. Note that the office keeps irregular hours (with staff taking breaks seemingly willy-nilly),
Time & People

Romania is in the Eastern European Time Zone: GMT + 2 hours. When it is 12:00 in Bucharest it is 11:00 in Berlin, 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York. The population of Romania is 19,042,936, and of Bucharest 1.7 million according to figures from the 2011 census.
When Things Go Wrong

In an emergency call 112. You do not need to use the city code, whether calling from a landline or a mobile. You wll be asked which service you require (Politia/Police, Ambulanta/Ambulance or Pompierii/Firemen). Emergency call centre operators should speak English or French but in our experience they do not always do so. At least make sure you know the name of the street you are calling from. If you get into trouble with the Police, demand to call your embassy. There is a list on page 90. The citys main police station is the new building at (B-4) Str. Lascar Cartagiu 22, tel. (+4) 021 212 56 84. The best Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) in the city is at Spitalul de Urgente, (C-3) Calea Floreasca 8, next to Dinamo Stadium. More details in the Health box on page 7, opposite. There is a list of Pharmacies on page 93, and an English speaking Dentist on page 90.
Health
Should you fall ill, the local health service is more than adequate, if not perfect. Hospitals do suffer from a lack of funds, and the frequent handing over of 10 lei notes to everyone from the receptionist to the cleaner is recommended. In an emergency you should call tel. 112 or tel. (+4) 021 9731 for an ambulance. The best state emergency hospital is Spitalul de Urgenta, C-3, Calea Floreasca 8, tel. (+4) 021 599 23 00. If your child becomes ill, you should take him or her to the excellent childrens emergency hospital, found at (B-4), B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 30-32, tel. (+4) 021 212 93 64/66. A list of 24 hour pharmacies can be found on page 93.
bucharest Basics
Market Values
One 1 is currently worth 4.40 lei. A pint of local beer in a central Bucharest bar or pub will cost you around 8 lei (1.80). A McDonalds Big Mac costs 11 lei (2.49), while a loaf of plain bread in a local store is 1.20 lei (0.27). A packet of 20 international brand cigarettes costs 14.50 lei (3.28), and one litre of standard unleaded petrol 5.94 lei (1.34). A onetrip ticket for public transport ticket costs 1.30 lei (0.29). so always make sure there will be someone on hand to give you back your bag when you want to pick it up. There are not currently any left luggage facilities at Otopeni airport.
So where am I exactly?
Bucharest, capital of Romania. Situated in that part of the world which will - to those of a certain age - always be known as Eastern Europe, it would be more accurate to describe Bucharests geographical location as southeastern Europe. Founded, legend has it, in the 14th century, Bucharest is in that part of Romania known as Wallachia, one of the three historic principalities which make up the modern country (the others are Moldavia and Transylvania). Romania as a nation state is relatively new: while Moldavia and Wallachia have been united as a single country since 1859, Romania took on its modern form only on December 1st, 1918, when the Romanians of Transylvania voted to join in the fun. The official population of Bucharest is just under two million people, but as many migrants from the rest of the country do not bother to register as citizens of the capital, the true number is thought to be closer to three million. Bucharest is close to the Danube (just 69 kilometres to the south), which serves as the border between Romania and Bulgaria. The main crossing point is at Giurgiu, linked by a bridge with Ruse, the Bulgarian town on the other side of the river, whose pleasant centre is well worth a day trip if you are at a loose end. Alas you will need a car, as train services between Bucharest and Ruse (and the rest of Bulgaria) are poor. Bucharest is around 240 kilometres from Constanta and the Black Sea coast, and now that the A2 motorway goes all the way to the Black Sea port, the journey can be done in just over two hours. Like most trains in Romania, the Bucharest - Constanta service is slow and it takes almost three hours. To the north of Bucharest is Ploiesti - the centre of Romanias oil industry, and beyond that the Carpathian Mountains, a two hour drive away.
Local laws & Police
If you are driving, or are out late at night, it is a good idea to carry at least a photocopy of your passport and driving license. Drinking in public (except in designated areas) leaves you open to a fine, and despite appearances to the contrary, prostitution is illegal. If you are arrested ask to speak to your embassy. There is a list on page 90.
Money
Romanias currency is the leu (plural lei), divided into 100 bani. Notes come in denominations of 500, 200, 100, 50, 10, 5 and 1. These are supplemented by 50, 10 and 5 bani coins. The best place to get your hands on Romanian money is at an ATM. If you really do have to change cash, then please ensure that you do it inside a bank. Credit and debit cards (MasterCard and Visa at least) are accepted almost everywhere. American Express and Diners Club cards are less widely accepted.
A Word From Bucharests Mayor

I am one of the over two million inhabitants of Bucharest. This is where I was born, and where I grew up. I know both the bright and dark sides of every nook and cranny. I have learned the history of each stone, and experienced romance while wandering in Herastrau Park or admiring the city by night. I have traveled a lot, but I have always come back home with infinite joy in order to discover my Bucharest over and over again. I am sure that there would have been no better place in Romania to build my medical career, with all the professional and academic opportunities that a capital city like Bucharest can offer. Yet I understood that for everything you get in this life you have to give something back. That is why now, as the Mayor of Bucharest, I commit myself to giving the people of this city a place to live in, not just a place to dwell in. Bucharest is Romanias most important cultural, economic, financial and political centre. It generates more than 20 per cent of the countrys GDP and is inhabited by more than 10 per cent of the Romanian population. All major financial and political institutions are based here. As one of 27 - soon to be 28 - European capitals, Bucharest is eager to share its cultural heritage with the community and the whole world. I therefore invite you to explore this wonderful city, to discover its mystery and take its pulse: Bucharest is always ready to surprise and impress its guests with its eternal and motley poetry. Sorin Oprescu, Mayor of Bucharest
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bucharest Basics
Politics
The Romanian political scene has been relatively sensible this year, but then given how last year saw local elections, a presidential impeachment referendum and a general election, it was always likely to be so. The government, made up of an alliance of the Social Democrats (PSD) and the Liberals (PNL; together called the Social Liberal Union, or USL) and led by Victor Ponta, has managed to so far peacefully coexist with its erstwhile foe, the president Traian Basescu. There are two reasons for this. Firstly, the USL has more than 65 per cent of seats in parliament and can pretty much do what it wants. Secondly, Basescus second term ends next year, and he cannot run for a third. Unless the USL splits (not out of the question but unlikely) we expect the political scene to remain steady until campaigning begins for the presidential election (the first round of which is to be held next November).
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Moving On
Getting from Bucharest to the capitals of neighbouring countries (Serbia, Hungary, Ukraine, Moldova and Bulgaria) is not as easy, quick or inexpensive as you would expect. Given the lack of good road connections you would think that there might be high-speed train connections instead. Well, think again. There are in fact direct trains to just two of the five neighbouring capitals (Budapest and Chisinau) both services painfully slow. To Sofia, Belgrade and Kyiv there is currently no direct train service from Bucharest. Anyway, here is a rundown of the fastest and cheapest ways of getting from capital to capital... T arom flies to Belgrade once a day, with prices from around 166 return. Incredibly, there is currently no train service between Bucharest and Belgrade, unless you fancy a 40 hour trip via Budapest which includes no fewer than four changes.
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Arrival 1: Otopeni
Bucharests only commercial airport is now Otopeni (officially Henri Coanda), 17km north of the city on the DN1. Opened in 1970 and recently extended, it is a spacious, efficient airport. Baneasa Airport - until recently the citys low-cost hub - closed its doors to airlines in March 2012. After getting off the plane and easing your way through passport control, youll find yourself in the baggage reclaim area. Ignore all of the services on offer here. You should especially ignore the currency exchange desks: they do not offer decent rates. Instead, grab your luggage, which usually arrives promptly (if it fails to arrive head for the small office on the right hand of side of the exit, where staff will help you find out where it might have gone), and then its off through customs to the arrivals area. Here there are loads of ATMs, a press shop and a small cafe. To the right is a passage leading to the departures terminal: the passage is lined with car hire desks and a few shops, including a chemist. To order a taxi, look for the touchscreens in the arrivals hall. They are fully automated and very easy to use (and offer multiple-language options), and you can choose a taxi from just about the full range of Bucharest taxi companies: all have their tariffs clearly displayed. Once the taxi company of your choice has informed you (via the screen) how long the taxi will take to arrive, and what ID number the taxi has, you simply go outside to wait for your taxi. Just make sure you get into the correct taxi: check the company name and ID number. While most of the rip-off taxis of yore have now gone, there are still sometimes touts hassling visitors inside the arrivals hall: ignore them. You can also get to town by taking bus 783, which stops underneath the arrivals hall, in front of internal arrivals and leaves for the city centre (stopping at Piata Victoriei, Piata Romana and Piata Universitatii) every 30 minutes during the day, and then every 40 minutes throughout the night. The full timetable of the 783 bus is online at ratb.ro. Another bus, the 780, runs from the airport to Gara de Nord from 05:15 to 23:00 roughly every 30 minutes. You need to purchase an Activ Card before boarding (get it from the little booth which youll find on your right hand side as you exit). A return journey into the city and back costs 7 lei (no singles are available, but there is no time limit on using the return). You also need to pay 3.70 lei for the card itself, but it can be recharged as often as you like at any ticket kiosk in Bucharest, with as much credit as you wish, and used on all Bucharest buses, trams and the metro. These cards cannot be bought on board. There is also a train which connects the airport to the main railway station, Gara de Nord. The train departs at irregular and infrequent intervals, however, and to get to the airports station you need to take a minibus. We do not recommend it. Timetables and tickets are available from a counter in the Arrivals hall. Look out for the Bilete CFR sign.
Toilets
Bucharest - Belgrade
The only decent public toilets in town are those at Gara de Nord (for which you have to pay, 1 leu). You will find free portaloos around the city but these should be used only by the very desperate. Otherwise, find the nearest McDonalds and make use of their loos. Note, however, that entrance to some McDonalds toilets in Bucharest is protected with a four-digit code, which you will get when you buy something.
Bucharest - Budapest
Taxi Tactics
Bucharests dodgy taxi drivers have a refreshingly liberal sense of equal opportunities: basically, when it comes to ripping people off, they view anyone as fair game. Locals, foreigners, young, old, male, female: anyone who steps in the wrong kind of taxi can expect to be well and truly buggered. The important thing to remember when getting into a taxi in this city is that there are two kinds: those which are operated by a tried and trusted taxi company (usually good) and independents (usually bad). The problem is spotting the difference. By and large, trustworthy taxis are easy to spot as they are emblazoned with the name and phone number of the company they are associated with. To counter this, however, the independents have also started to plaster phone numbers over their cars, alongside copy-cat logos that look cunningly like those of decent taxi companies. The best way to avoid being ripped off however is to pay careful attention to the tariffs, displayed on the driver and passenger door of all taxis. There should just now be one single tarif displayed, and anything higher than 1.69 lei per kilometre should start alarm bells ringing. Be extra careful around Gara de Nord, Bucuresti Mall, Piata Universitatii, Piata Unirii and in Old Town, at the National Bank. To avoid any problems, call one of the taxi companies listed below. If you are in a hotel or restaurant, ask your concierge or waiter/waitress to call a taxi for you. If you feel something is a bit suspect in any taxi, note down the drivers number and call his company to report him. Autogeneral 021 9401, Cobalcescu 021 9451, Confort 021 9455, Cristaxi 021 9461, Leone 021 9425, Mavi 021 9450 Meridian 021 9444, Mondial 021 9423, Speed Taxi 021 9477, Taxi As 021 9435, Taxi Total 021 9424. Most of these companies have at least one operator who speaks English.
There are three flights from Bucharest to Budapest each day, all operated by T arom. Standard return prices start at around 172, although you can often find cheaper tickets if you book far enough in advance. There are also three direct trains connecting the two cities: the fastest daytime train leaves at 05:45 (arriving in Budapest at 18:50) while the night train leaves at 17:40 and arrives at 08:50. The price for a berth in a sleeping wagon is around 90 (one way), while a bed in a cuseta (sharing with up to five others) costs around 53. Again, the best place to buy international train tickets in Bucharest is Wasteels, at Gara de Nord.
Bucharest - Chisinau
There are four flights a day between Bucharest and Chisinau, and if bought far enough in advance return plane tickets with T arom can cost as little as around 122. Air Moldova also fly the same route, tickets costing slightly more, around 144 return. The overnight train to Chisinau departs Bucharest at 19:40, and arrives in the Moldovan capital at 08:52 the next morning. Tickets cost from around 41 (single).
Bucharest - Kyiv
Getting to Kyiv from Bucharest takes plenty of patience. Using a flight search-engine such as skyscanner.com, however, you can now find return flights for around 220, often via Amsterdam. The train to Kyiv takes a whopping 27 hours, leaving Bucharest at 06:12, arriving in Kyiv at 09:18 the following morning. Tickets cost from around 63 (single).
Bucharest - Sofia
Some trusted taxi companies:
Flying to Sofia from Bucharest costs around 180, with either T arom or Bulgaria Air. There are two or three flights per day depending on the day of the week. There are two direct (if very slow) trains per day, one at 12:30 (arriving Sofia 22:00) and a night train leaving at 23:12 (arriving in Sofia at 09:25). Single tickets cost from 59. Much cheaper (and quicker) is the daily coach linking Bucharest and Sofia. It leaves the Gara Filaret coach station next to Parcul Carol (B-7) each day at 16:00, arriving in Sofia just under seven hours later. Tickets cost 18 single (35 return) and can be bought direct form the driver.
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ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Public transport
Even the most remote corners of Bucharest are served by bus, trolleybus or tram, and most main roads in the city centre benefit from three or four different bus routes. Most buses are overcrowded, however, and travelling on them is a less than pleasant experience. Buses, trolleybuses and trams run from very early in the morning (around 04:30) to around 23:00 (earlier at weekends), after which the night buses take over. The night bus network is extensive, and operates an hourly service throughout the night. All night buses depart from Piata Unirii.
Arrival 2: Gara de Nord

If you arrive in Bucharest by train you will arrive at Gara de Nord. It is OK, but has the usual collection of rogues, tramps and thieves to contend with. There are ATMs, shops, kiosks, a McDonalds and a KFC. It even now has free Wifi. To get to town take an honest taxi from outside (beware sharks) or take the metro: you are just one stop away from Piata Victoriei. To get to the airport from Gara de Nord, take bus 780. WARNING: None of Bucharests reputable hostels send people to Gara de Nord to speculatively meet trains. Anyone who approaches you (and if you have just got off the Budapest train and have a backpack, you will be approached) is trying to scam you: they will try and divert you from your intended destination (often by saying that the place you want to go to is closed) towards another hostel or hotel that they will recommend to you. Just ignore anything they say and wave them away. complete your journey without being fined. On all forms of public transport children under the age of seven travel free. After that age they need a full-price ticket.
Public Transport Tickets
To use a bus, trolleybus or tram you will need to buy an Activ Card before climbing aboard. These cards cost 3.70 lei, are valid on all forms of public transport (including the metro) and can be bought from the little kiosks next to major stops. They need to be loaded with credit (minimum 5 lei, maximum 50 lei) and are reusable: you can reload them as many times as needs be. The card is then debited each time you validate it at one of the orange devices located on buses, trams and trolleybuses, or at the entrance to the metro. One trip by surface transport costs 1.30 lei, a metro trip costs 2.00 lei. You can now also buy joint bus and metro tickets, valid not just for one or two journeys but for an unlimited number of journeys over a designated period of time. A 60-minute RATB (bus, tram, trolleybus) and metro ticket costs 5 lei, while a 24-hour ticket (abonament de o zi ) costs 16 lei. Tickets are valid from the moment they are electronically franked on a bus or at a metro station, and must be franked at the start of each journey. Also - and this is a bonus - they are valid until the end of the last journey you make. So if you get on a bus or metro one minute before your ticket expires, you can still
Metro
Bucharests metro was primarily built to ship workers from the vast housing estates of Titan, Berceni and Militari out to the huge industrial plants at Pipera, IMGB, Republica and Industriilor. Thats all very well if you are resident of Titan working at IMGB, but useless to almost everybody else. The city centre is poorly served by the metro and only the north-south M2 line, from Pipera to IMGB, which passes through Piatas Victoriei, Romana and Unirii, and the M1 branch to the Gara de
14
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Train Schedule
From Bucharest To Bucharest Dep Arr. Dep. Arr. IR 23:45 10:39 ARAD IR 18:53 05:43 IR 05:45 08:28 BRASOV IR 06:01 08:47 IC 13:10 15:36 BRASOV IR 09:23 12:00 IC 15:30 18:08 BRASOV ICN 09:40 12:10 ICN 17:40 20:09 BRASOV IR 17:10 19:48 IR 18:30 21:09 BRASOV IC 20:40 23:05 IR 20:30 06:07 CLUJ-NAPOCA IR 23:28 08:47 IR 08:30 11:25 CONSTANTA IR 13:30 16:10 IR 14:00 16:35 CONSTANTA IR 17:20 20:00 IR 12:45 15:43 CRAIOVA IR 19:32 22:27 IR 13:40 17:34 GALATI IR 09:25 13:18 IR 12:00 18:58 IASI IR 14:20 21:30 IR 23:00 05:53 IASI IR 23:30 06:30 IC 13:10 01:05 ORADEA IC 11:30 23:05 IR 21:20 11:13 SATU MARE IR 16:37 06:13 IR 15:30 21:04 SIBIU IR 15:30 21:14 IC 13:10 18:01 SIGHISOARA IC 18:22 23:05 IR 11:10 19:25 TIRGU MURES IR 13:12 21:40 IR 10:45 19:15 TIMISOARA IR 07:15 16:30 IR 12:45 21:11 TIMISOARA IR 14:10 22:27
Schedule checked July 29, 2013. The full Romanian railway timetable is online at www.infofer.ro.
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT

Tourist Information
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0746 25 29 22. Large, spacious, official tourist information centre. Stocks copies of our guides. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. An unofficial yet very good tourist information point is operated out of the Rembrandt Hotel (C-6; see page 38).
15
Budget B-4, Str. Mihail Moxa 9, tel. (+4) 021 210 28
Info Tourist Center C-5, P-ta Universitatii Underpass,
67, fax (+4) 021 210 29 95, reservations@budgetro.ro, www.budgetro.ro. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (B-3) Calea Dorobanti 5 - 7 (Howard Johnson Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 201 50 89, Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun and Henri Coanda International Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 16 67, Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Car Rental
All of the major international car hire firms are present in Bucharest, alongside a number of local outfits. You usually need to be over 21 to hire a car in Romania, and to have held a license for at least couple of years.
Cars4Rent Str. Drumul Odaii 1D (Hotel Charter), tel. (+4) 0723 34 71 92/(+4) 0372 99 99 99, fax (+4) 021 352 87 16, office@cars4rent.ro, www. cars4rent.ro. Good car hire from the people behind the Charter Hotel. Q Open 24 hrs. Compact Rent-a-Car A-4, B-dul N. Titulescu 1, bl A7, sc. 1, et. 6, ap. 16, tel. (+4) 0744 58 67 24, (+4) 021 312 98 57, fax (+4) 021 312 99 82, office@compactrentacar.ro, www.compact-rentacar.ro. Q Prices from 18/day. Europcar D-6, Str. Grigore Mora 17, tel. (+4) 021 310 17 97, (+4) 0747 28 06 49, fax (+4) 021 310 17 96, reservations@europcar.com.ro, www.europcar. ro. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Also at Otopeni Airport tel. (+4) 0374 00 40, Open 08:00 - 22:00. Service also available in Cluj, Constanta, Sibiu, Timisoara. Hertz A-1, Piata Montreal 10, entrance F, 1st Floor, office 1.20, tel. (+4) 021 407 82 00, reservations@hertz. ro, www.hertz.ro. Q Also at Henri Coanda Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 12 78, Open 08:00 - 22:00. 021 9400, (+4) 0372 37 20 05, reservation@sixt.ro, www.sixt.ro. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30.
Nord, is likely to be of any use to visitors. Tickets are almost as cheap as for the trams and buses: they cost either 4 lei (valid for two trips; doua calatorii) or 15 lei (ten trips; zece calatorii) and can be bought from any metro station. You can also buy tickets valid for one day (abonament de o zi), costing 6 lei. The metro runs from around 05:00 to 23:00.
(One Star Smart Number), (+4) 021 210 43 44, fax (+4) 021 210 69 12, reservations@avis.ro, www.avis.ro. A delivery and collection service is available free of charge within the city limits; the service is on request, and it depends on the availability of the Avis rental office. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (C-5) InterContinental, tel. (+4) 021 314 18 37, Open 08:00 - 20:00; Henri Coanda International Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 19 57, Open 07:00 - 02:00 and Avis Porsche Bucharest North, tel. (+4) 0723 612 011, Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. 33 37 07, (+4) 031 802 22 22, fax (+4) 031 802 22 28, office@bavariarent.ro, www.bavariarent.ro. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at Otopeni Airport, tel. (+4) 021 201 45 34, (+4) 0730 33 37 05, Open 08:00-02:00, Sat 08:00-20:00.
Avis B-dul Theodor Pallady 51, tel. *AVIS (*2847) - OSSN
Bavaria Rent Drumul Garii Otopeni 1B, tel. (+4) 0730
Sixt New Kopel Calea Bucurestilor 201-203, tel. (+4)
Trains
Given that Romanias roads are so bad, its comforting to know that the countrys railways are equally crap. Having said that, many long years of line upgrades on the Bucharest - Brasov and Bucharest - Constanta routes are now approaching completion, and journey times are more or less back to something approaching 1989 levels: two and a half hours to Brasov, slightly more to Constanta. Always try to get an InterCity (IC) or InterRegio (IR) train as they are the fastest and usually have the most modern rolling stock. Regio (R-) trains (which until recently were known as Personal), are slow and use much older rolling stock. You will also see trains designated as ICN: these are InterCity trains which stop at more stations than usual, and are more like InterRegios. Prices on all types of train are relatively cheap, but are rising fast. An InterCity adult single from Bucharest to Brasov costs 85.80 lei.
Bucharest is well linked to Budapest by train (there are two per day) but poorly to Belgrade, Sofia, Chisinau and Kyiv. To buy train tickets, visit either the station, the CFR agency we list below or buy online at www.cfr.ro/calatori. Your best bet for the purchase of international tickets is Wasteels at the station. In all cases, do not leave buying tickets to the last minute: long queues could mean you miss your train. Tickets cannot be purchased on the train, though in the worst case scenario you can try bribing the guard. Many locals do this habitually. Agentia de Voiaj SNCFR B-5, Str. Domnita Anastasia 1014, tel. (+4) 021 313 26 42, www.cfr.ro. CFRs advance booking office. Reservations for all kinds of trains. Q Open 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Wasteels A-4, Gara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 317 03 70/021 300 27 30, www.triptkts.ro. Advance reservations for all types of trains, national and international. Helpful staff, western currencies accepted. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
16
CULTURE & Events

Bucharest In Your Pocket offers the widest selection of concerts, events, club nights and exhibitions in Bucharest. We in general welcome submissions, so if you have an event you want to publicise, however big or small, you can do so here: absolutely free. We will also try to include it in our print edition too (if space allows). Send details of your event to bucharest@inyourpocket.com.
Bucharest With Children

Bucharest is not the greatest city in the world to visit with children. The major problem is that the vast majority of the citys museums with a few honourable and notable exceptions - are dull, offer no real inter-activity and little to captivate young kids. The exceptions are the outstanding Village Museum (see page 67), which children love, as they can scurry around the houses, explore and generally be kids without worrying too much about grump security guards telling them off. The confectionery stand at the entrance selling tasty Romanian sweets helps too. The Peasant Museum (see page 66) will please older children, especially those who know a little Romanian history (and note that the Clubul Taranului, around the back of the museum, has puppet shows most weekend mornings at 10:30am and 12pm), while the Geology Museum (see page 72) across the road is also a good choice for families. The other is the excellent Grigore Antipa Natural History Museum, see page 65. We recently took the In Your Pocket kids to the curious little place that is the National Technical Museum at the entrance to Parcul Carol. While very old fashioned and a bit dusty, the kids loved it, as it is packed with models and exhibits of things which are right up their street: trains, cars, engines, jet packs, planes and such like. The Circus Globus (C-3, Parcul Circului) has performances most weekends (morning, afternoon and evening) and is always a hit with kids. You will find details of its per formances at the website www.circulglobus.ro. Bucharests Zoo on Aleea Priveghetorilor (turn right at the Academia de Politie) is better than it has been for years. They have a fine collection of exotic birds, and it is a good half-day out for kids. Entrance costs 13 lei for adults, 6.50 lei for kids. The zoo is open daily from 09:00-17:00. And then of course there are the parks. Cismigiu (B-5) and Herastrau (A/B-2) are the best and most central, but Tineretului (take the metro to Tineretului), with its fabulous playgrounds, is also worth exploring. An excellent indoor playground can be found at Funland Romania: a cracking place to take the kids on days when it rains. Featuring perhaps the biggest indoor playground we have seen (15 lei Mon-Fri, 20 lei Sat, Sun), bowling, billiards, arcade games and plenty of space for Mums and Dads to relax and have coffee in, it is a weekend-must. Find it on the fourth floor of the Unirea Shopping Centre in (C-6) Piata Unirii. For kids who want to swim there is Daimon, a good sports club in Parcul Tineretului, where under fives swim for free. There are also pools open to the public at the InterContinental and Hilton hotels, as well as two water parks. For more on Swimming pools and water parks in Bucharest see the box on page 24. Oh, and it might be mid-summer, but ice skating is also an option: there is a good, indoor rink at the AFI Palace shopping centre. Golf Planet, an indoor crazy golf course on Piata Unirii, is another potential destination. Most restaurants in Bucharest are child-friendly, even if the amount of smoke in some of them means that you will probably not want to enter with kids. Those deserving a special mention include the big hotels - all of which have kids entertainers during their fabulous brunches - the Hard Rock Cafe: always happy to see kids, Malagamba, Salt, Red Angus, Osho, Meat Factory and Vacamuu, all of which have a great kids menu: some offer kids activities at weekend lunchtimes.
Rock & Pop

31.07 Wednesday
Sting / Mike & the Mechanics
Romexpo. This is, we think, the polo-playing ex-Genesis mans first trip to Bucharest with his marvellous Mechanics, possibly the best AOR band of the past two decades. With tickets starting at 144 lei its a bargain night out, given that you get Sting thrown in afterwards for free. Q Starts 17:00. Tickets 144-479 lei online from eventim.ro and Eventim partner outlets.
10.08 Saturday - 11.08 Sunday

Domeniul Stirbey, Buftea. A two day festival in the grounds of the Stirbey Palace in Buftea, north-west of Bucharest. Headline acts are The XX (Saturday) and Suede (Sunday). Other acts performing include Eugene McGuiness, The 1975, The Courteeners, The Vaccines, Spector and The Family Rain. Besides the music there will be loads of other events - including some for kids - and plenty of places to eat and drink. A special bus will run from to and from the festival site from the bus stop behind the Peasant Museum (B-3, Bdul Ion Mihalache). Q Starts both days at 15:00. Tickets valid for both days cost 140 lei in advance, 169 lei on the day, and are available from eventim.ro, and Eventim partner shops such as the Sala Palatului box office and the Humantias bookshop at Calea Victoriei 45. Children under 12 are admitted free if accompanied by an adult.
Summer Well 2013
18
Culture & Events

More Live Music
Finding good live music is no longer the problem in Bucharest it once was. In fact, on most nights - especially at the weekend - you will be spoilt for choice. Your first stop for regular live acts should be Mojo in the Old Town (see page 87) which hosts top local bands alongside its resident Mojo Band. Sankt Petersburg (page 86) opposite also has live music a couple of times per week. Club A (page 87) on Strada Blanari, is another decent bet. Outside of the Old Town, Hard Rock Cafe (page 40) Control (see page 63) and Panic (page 64) are known for their range of live music, while Kulturhaus and Music Club (both on page 64) similarly have live bands on most evenings. For live jazz, try Art Jazz Club and Green Hours (see page 64). At Divan (the best Turkish restaurant in the city, see page 80) there is live oriental music and dancing, and a Turkish DJ, every Friday and Saturday night at 21:30.
Culture & Events

Cinemas
Bucharest is blessed with plenty of good cinemas, from big multiplexes in the shopping malls to small, musty, independent cinemas in the city centre. Films in Romania are shown in their original language with Romanian subtitles. The exceptions are animated films: these are usually dubbed into Romanian, though in larger multiplexes you can usually also find the original language version. The key words to look for are dublat (dubbed) and subtitrat (subtitled). To find out which films are showing, check the individual websites of each cinema, or browse the full programme of all the citys cinemas at cinemagia.ro.
19
Venues & Tickets

Tickets for all of the events listed on these pages can be purchased at branches at the box offices of the venues themselves or online at eventim.ro, bilete.ro, biletoo. ro and vreaubilet.ro.
Arenele Romane B-7, Str. Cutitul de Argint 26

(Parcul Carol), MEroii Revolutiei.
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 25 67, (+4) 021 315 68 75 for tickets, www.fge.org.ro.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 16:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 11:00, 16:0019:00. Closed Mon. Tickets from 8.00 lei to 34.00 lei.
Atheneum (Ateneul Romn) C-5, Str. Franklin 1-3,
18.08 Sunday Julian Marley
B-7, Arenele Romane, www.reggaenights.ro. Son of reggae legend Bob Marley and a respected performer in his own right, Julian Marley plays the Arenele Romane on August 18. His third and best known album, Awake, was nominated for a Grammy. Q Starts 20:00. Tickets 45 lei online from myticket.ro, or from Diverta Music & Film or the Sala Palatului box office.
Cinema Pro C-5, Str. Ion Ghica 3, tel. (+4) 031 824 13 60, www.cinemapro.ro. City centre, one-screen cinema behind Universitate, which shows the latest releases, with the film changing each Friday. Completely renovated a couple of years ago, the seats are comfy, sightlines are good and ticket prices cheap.Q Tickets 13-22 lei.
(Bucuresti Mall), tel. (+4) 021 327 70 20, www. hmultiplex.ro. The best complex of cinemas in the city, offering ten screens, good popcorn and comfortable seats. Q Tickets 17.40 - 32 lei.
biletoo.ro C-6, Piata Unirii 1 (Unirea Shopping Centre), MPiata Unirii, www.biletoo.ro. Buy tickets for more or less all events in Bucharest either online at biletoo.ro or at the various outlets around the city: the most central is in Unirea, on the ground floor just inside the entrance next to McDonalds.
she performed at the wedding of Prince Guillaume, Hereditary Grand Duke of Luxembourg to Belgian Countess Stphanie de Lannoy. Q Starts 20:00. Tickets 80 lei online from eventim.ro or from all branches of Germanos and InMedio.
Diverta Music & Film C-6, Piata Unirii (Unirea

Shopping Centre), MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 031 805 65 33, www.diverta.net. Sells tickets for most Bucharest concerts and events. The most central branch is on the third floor of Unirea Shopping Centre, but there are many other locations around the city, including all of the citys malls. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Hollywood Multiplex E-7, Calea Vitan 55-59
Classical Music
14.08 Wednesday
C-5, Atheneum. Part of a series of summer concerts at the Atheneum which set the scene and whet the appetite for Septembers Enescu Festival. This concert features work by Rossini. Mendelssohn and Brahms, and soloists Maruxa Llorente (piano) and Liviu Prunaru (violin). Q Starts 19:00. Tickets 50 lei online at bilete.ro or from the Atheneum box office.
28.08 Wednesday
Roger Waters: The Wall

B-6, Piata Constitutiei, www.emagic.ro. Bucharests biggest concert of the year. We know people who purchased their tickets back in November when they first went on sale. It is not difficult to work out why, either: almost 35 years after its release The Wall still sounds fabulous, not least when performed in full by the man who wrote it. This is a full production of the album, complete with the wall itself being constructed throughout the show just as it was when Pink Floyd first toured with it in 1979. The unique setting, in front of Casa Poporului, should guarantee that this is one of the most memorable Walls ever. Q Starts 20:00. Tickets 135950 lei online from myticket.ro, from branches of Diverta or the Sala Palatului box office.
Timisoara, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 021 407 00 00, www.aficotroceni.ro. The first (and still only) IMAX cinema in Romania is part of the Cinema CIty complex in the Cotroceni Palace shopping centre. Q Tickets 15-37.50 lei. tel. (+4) 021 407 83 00, www.movieplex.ro. Big, multi-screen cinema in the Plaza Romania offering up to 25 different films a week. Features all the latest Hollywood and local releases, and tends to screen them long after theyve disappeared from other cinemas. Q Tickets from 13.80 to 34.80 lei. erty Center), www.lightcinemas.ro. Decent multiplex a short tram ride (No. 32) from Piata Unirii. Find it in the Liberty Center mall.Q Tickets 12 - 35 lei.
IMAX/Cinema City B-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul
Vara Magica: Chamber Music
Hard Rock Cafe A-2, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021
206 62 61, sales@hardrockcafe.ro, www.hardrock. com/bucharest. The home of the best burger in Bucharest doubles up as one of the citys top live music venues. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
Mojo Music Club C-6, Str. Gabroveni 14, MPiata
Movieplex B-dul Timisoara 26 (Plaza Romania),
19.08 Monday
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0760 26 34 96, www.mojomusic. ro.
07.09 Saturday New World Punx
B-7, Arenele Romane. Two of the biggest names in trance, DJs Ferry Corsten and Marcus Schulz bring their latest project to Romania: New Wave Punx, mixing punk with trance and much else. Local DJs will do the opening honours. Q Starts 22:00. Tickets 45 lei in advance from bilete.ro, or 60 lei on the door. B-7, Arenele Romane. Made famous by the Johnny Depp film The Man Who Cried the worlds best known Gypsy taraf band (originally from Clejani, south of Bucharest) celebrate 25 years in the business. Q Starts 19:30. Tickets 72-135 lei online from eventim.ro or from any branch of Germanos or InMedio.
The Light Cinema Sos. Progresului 151-171 (Lib-
C-5, Atheneum. Part of a series of summer concerts at the Atheneum which set the scene and whet the appetite for Septembers Enescu Festival. Horia Andreescu conducts the Romanian Sinfonietta Orchestra performing works by Haydn, Enescu and Beethoven. Q Starts 19:00. Tickets 50 lei online at bilete.ro or the Atheneum box office.
Vara Magica: Romanian Sinfonietta Orchestra
Nicolae Blcescu 2, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 314 71 71, www.tnb.ro. Q Box office Open Mon 10:00-16:00, Tue-Sun 10:00-19:00.
National Theatre (Teatrul National) C-5, B-dul
21.08 Wednesday
Vara Magica: The Moldovan Youth Orchestra

C-5, Atheneum. Gabriel Bebeselea and Andriano Marian conduct the Moldovan Youth Orchestra performing works by Mendelssohn and Tchaikovsky. Soloists are Ilian Grnes (violin) and Livia Stirbu (piano). The last of a series of summer concerts at the Atheneum which set the scene and whet the appetite for Septembers Enescu Festival. Q Starts 19:00. Tickets 50 lei online at bilete.ro or the Atheneum box office.
tionala Romana) A-5, B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72, MEroilor, tel. (+4) 021 314 69 80, www.operanb. ro.Q Box office open 09:00-13:00, 15:00-19:00. Sala Palatului B-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 28, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 73 72. Q Box office open Tue-Fri 10:00-19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Romanian National Opera (ONB) (Opera Na-
12.09 Thursday Taraf de Haidouks
21.09 Saturday
Hypocrisy & Hatesphere

B-7, Arenele Romane. Metalhead Meeting, which looks set to become one of the biggest events on the Bucharest heavy rock scene, brings to the Romanian capital two of Scandinavias biggest metal acts: Swedens Hypocrisy and Denmarks Hatesphere. Q Starts 18:30. Tickets 80-120 lei online at bilete.ro, all branches of Germanos and InMedio, or from the Sala Palatului box office.
01.09 Sunday - 28.09 Saturday
George Enescu Festival 2013

Atheneum, Sala Palatului, Sala Radio, Romanian National Opera, www.festivalenescu.ro/en. See feature on pages 20-23.Q Tickets for concerts which have yet to sell out can be bought online at eventim.ro, or in person at any Eventim partner, including the Humanitas bookshop at (C-5) Calea Victoriei 45 and the Sala Palatului Box Office. Tickets can also be purchased at the Atheneum box office.
Sala Radio (Radiodifuziune) B-5, Str. Berthelot 60-64, tel. (+4) 021 314 77 70/(+4) 021 303 12 97, www.srr.ro. The National Radio Orchestra is one of the best in the country and happens to have its very own 1950s socialist-looking music hall in the radio building. Q Box office open 09:00-18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The box office remains open until 20:00 on concert evenings. Vreau Bilet C-6, Piata Unirii 1 (Unirea Shopping Centre), MPiata Unirii. Tickets for a number of concerts and events in Bucharest and around Romania, either from the kiosk on the second floor of Unirea Shopping Centre or the website vreaubilet.ro.
15.09 SundayBonobo
B-7, Arenele Romane. British DJ Simon Green (Bonobo) brings his The North Borders tour - promoting this years album of the same name - to the Arenele Romane. Q Starts 20:00. Ticket details had not been announced as we went to press, but expect to be able on pay on the door.
22.09 Sunday Selah Sue
B-7, Arenele Romane. Pretty young Belgian singer best known (probably) for her massive hit This World, from her self-titled debut album released in 2011. Quirky fact: in 2012
20
THE GEORGE ENESCU FESTIVAL

age of five, shortly after which he was admitted to the Vienna Conservatory, where he studied with - amongst others - Joseph Hellmesberger Jr., Robert Fuchs and Sigismund Bachrich. He graduated before his 13th birthday, and in 1895 went to Paris to continue his musical education. He studied violin with Martin Pierre Marsick, harmony with Andr Gedalge, and composition with Jules Massenet and Gabriel Faur. It was while he was in Paris that he wrote his two Romanian Rhapsodies (19012), heavily influenced by Romanian folk music. His other major work, the opera Oedip was not written until 1936. He also wrote five symphonies (two of them unfinished), the symphonic poem Vox Maris, and a series of chamber music. In 1923 Enescu made his American debut as a conductor in a concert given by the Philadelphia Orchestra at Carnegie Hall in New York, and he subsequently made frequent return trips to the United States. It was in America, in the 1920s, that Enescu was first persuaded to make recordings as a violinist. He also appeared as a conductor with many American orchestras, and in 1936 he was one of the candidates considered to replace Arturo Toscanini as permanent conductor of the New York Philharmonic. In 1935, he conducted the Orchestre Symphonique de Paris and Yehudi Menuhin (who had been his pupil for several years from 1927) in Mozart's Violin Concerto No. 3 in G major. He also conducted the New York Philharmonic between 1937 and 1938. In 1939 he married Maria Rosetti (known as the Princess Cantacuzino through her first husband Mihail Cantacuzino), a good friend of Romanias Queen Marie. It is worth noting that while staying in Bucharest, Enescu did not live - as popular wisdom would have it - in the Cantacuzino Palace on Calea Victoriei (now the George Enescu Museum, dedicated to his work, see page 23). The couple in fact lived in a smaller property to the rear of the main building. Enescu spent most of World War II in Romania, but was in Paris at the time of Soviet occupation of the country in 1944, and did not return. On his death in 1955, Enescu was interred in the Pre Lachaise Cemetery in Paris. Today, besides the museum to his music and memory, the Symphony Orchestra of Bucharest and
From September 1st to 28th, Bucharest will play host to one of Europes best classical music festivals, the bi-annual George Enescu International Music Festival, named for Romanias greatest composer, George Enescu. This years event is the 21st, and is an extravaganza of concerts and wonderful music comparable - in its desire to bring music to as wide an audience as possible - to the BBC Proms, this years event is the biggest ever, and will feature weekly parallel concerts around Romania: all of the countrys major towns will host at least one concert. While most of the concerts in Bucharest will take place at the Atheneum (home of course to the George Enescu Philharmonic Orchestra), there will be events at the Sala Radio, the Romanian National Opera and Sala Palatului. See page 19 for full venue details.
George Enescu
George Enescu - known in France, where he lived and worked for much of his life - as Georges Enesco - was born in 1881, in Liveni, near Botosani in northeastern Romania. A child prodigy, Enescu created his first musical composition at the Photo Ilina Schileru
The George ENESCU FESTIVAl

Photo Ilina Schileru
23
The George Enescu Museum
the George Enescu Festival carry his name. Bacau International Airport was recently also named for him, becoming George Enescu International Airport.
The George Enescu International Music Festival

The festival that celebrates Enescu was first held in 1958, and was founded by Enescus friend and sometime collaborator, the conductor George Georgescu. That first event became legendary for two things: performance of Bachs Concerto for Two Violins with Yehudi Menuhin and David Oistrakh as soloists, and a staging of Enescus sole opera, Oedip, with Constantin Silvestri conducting. The festival was initially held every three years, becoming a bi-annual event in only in 2001. Besides performances, the festival also often features a competition element for young conductors and soloists. The work of Enescu himself remains central to the festival, and its international appeal and importance - which guarantees the attendance of the worlds finest performers - is an all too rare chance for Romania to present a genuinely positive image of itself on the world stage. Put simply, no other event regularly held in Romania can match the Enescu Festivals prestige.
George Enescu Museum (Muzeul National George Enescu) B-4, Calea Victoriei 141,
MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 318 14 50, www. georgeenescu.ro. Mistakenly believed to be the great Romanian composer George Enescus former home, this outstanding Secession house was in fact built for landowner George Cantacuzino in 1905, and many older Bucharest residents still refer to it as the Cantacuzino Palace. It became state property in 1955, the year of Enescus death, and a year later opened as a museum dedicated to his life and work. You will find rooms full of the usual memorabilia and artefacts from the eventful life of Romanias most famous composer, as well as a full telling of the story of Romanian music in general. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6 lei, children 1.50 lei. Free entry on the 26th of each month.
Enescu Festival 2013

This year there are six series of concerts: The Great Orchestras of the World, Chamber Concerts and Recitals, Midnight Concerts, Ballet & Opera, The Wagner Series and Contemporary Music. There will also be a number of events around the country: all of Romanias major towns will host at least one concert. The unquestionable highlight of this year will be two concerts by the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra on September 27 and 28: the latter concert will feature work by Enescu. Other orchestras visiting include the National Philharmonic of Russia (September 4), Royal Stockholm Philharmonic (September 23, 24) and the Pittsburgh Symphony Orchestra (September 4). The festival is to be opened by the Staatskapelle Berlin on September 1 at the Sala Palatului: Daniel Barenboim will conduct Enescus Romanian Rhapsody. Other highlights include the Vortice Dance Company as part of the Opera and Ballet Series (September 16, 19) and the Rundfunk Sinfonieorchester performing Wagner on September 15, 16, 19, 22. The Romanian National Opera (usually on its summer recess at this time of year) will be performing its highly original version of Othello - conducted by Keri-Lynn Wilson and featuring Peter Seiffert as Othello - at the Romanian National Opera on September 6 and 9. The opera will also stage a rare performance of George Enescus
only opera, Oedip, on September 26. Stefan Ignat takes the title role. The Midnight Concerts (all taking place at the Atheneum) are also not to be missed. Of particular note are the two concerts by the Lausanne Chamber Orchestra on September 13 and 14, which feature eight of Mozarts finest works. Brits might want to head for the St. Martin in the Fields recital on September 20, which will include Elgars Enigma Variations. Note that all of the Midnight Concerts actually begin at 22:30. The full festival programme is online at festivalenescu. ro/en/calendar/events . Note that many of the more important concerts - especially those part of the Great Orchestras of the World series - sold out as soon as tickets went on sale earlier in 2013. However, there are more than 150 events in all, and the chances are that you should be able to grab tickets for some events as late as the day of the performance itself. Tickets for events which have yet to sell out can be purchased at eventim.ro, or at any Eventim ticket agency. These include the bookshops Carturesti (C-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15) and Humanitas (C-5, Calea Victoriei 45) and the Sala Palatului Box Office (C-5). There are also Eventim ticket agencies at Baneasa Shopping City and on the second floor of the Unirea Shopping Centre (C-6).
24
Bucharest monopoly
ten years or so ago now. The trend for bringing life to grey, socialist-era blocks with brightly coloured paint is now visible all over the city. Some distance from Rahova is the other brown property, Calea Giulesti. It is best known as the site of Stadion Giulesti, home to Rapid Bucharest, the ugly sister of Bucharest football (Steaua and Dinamo remain the capitals best supported sides). Founded by railway workers (the main line into Gara de Nord passes within a few metres of the stadium) the team has won the Romanian championship just three times, in 1967, 1999 and in 2003. Fans of bizarre buildings might like to know that the prototype-looking skyscraper with few if any windows next to the stadium (and visible from every train coming and going from the station) is in fact a now derelict elevator test-shaft. It was built in the 1970s by Ascensor SA, the national lift company, which hoped to corner the European market in high-speed lifts for tall buildings. It didnt. The first train station on the Bucharest board is Gara Progresu, a bleak outpost of the Romanian railways which these days sees little, if any, traffic: the Romanian train timetable (online at cfr.ro/mersultrenurilor) in fact lists no regular passenger trains as being scheduled to stop here for the foreseeable future. Balta Alba translates as White Pond, and is named for the lake in the middle of Titan/IOR park, one of the largest and best in the city. It has been completely renovated and re-landscaped at great cost over the past few years and is a wonderful place to spend time. See box on page 27. Unfairly regarded as the Bucharest hood, B-dul Pantelimon is a working class area named for the Orthodox St. Pantelimon the Healer, and is the gateway to the less-visited sights east of the city, including Cernica, a 19th-century monastery nine kilometres from the capital. Its church features frescoes painted by the little-known maestro George Frujinescu. Berceni is a less than salubrious district of the capital, which we would suggest is not really worthy of its light blue status on the Bucharest Monopoly board. It is home to the capitals most chaotic department store, BIG, now joined opposite by the rather more swish Sun Plaza mall. Youll find it behind Piata Sudului. The district of Titan was the largest housing project in the country when it was completed in the early 1970s. It is home to more than a tenth of the citys population, and is today seeing something of a revival, with hundreds of new apartments being built in shiny new blocks. The redevelopment of the big Titan/IOR park has helped the area. It is well worth taking the metro to Titan both to explore the lovely park (which features a full-scale replica of a wooden Maramures church) as well as have a peek at Titan metro station itself: the biggest and most grandiose on the entire Bucharest system. Colentina is an area of high-rise blocks and shabby houses often built haphazardly along streets some of which remain unpaved even today. It is of absolutely no interest to visitors. Neighbouring Tei was probably a lovely area once, the lake of the same name providing a fair retreat for citizens of pre-communist era Bucharest. Now, alas, it is another shabby area of blocks. B-dul Lacul Tei is however home to Bucharests Circus. Gara de Est (or, more commonly, Gara Obor) is another of Bucharests stations that sees almost no traffic. Just six trains a day leave from here, all of which are painfully slow Regio trains serving Fetesti and Constanta. The station building itself however - constructed in 1932 - is a gem. B-dul Timioara heads west towards little in particular from Piata Danny Huwe, a square named for a young Belgian journalist killed in Bucharest during the 1989 revolution.
While the very idea of free parking, water boards or paying income tax may be alien to many Romanians, the value of property is not. As such, Monopoly has been played in Romania for years (long before the fall of the communist regime), often on moody versions of the game made in a dark factory somewhere far from the eyes of intellectual property lawyers. Though a legal, licensed Romanian version has been around since 1999, it was produced in few numbers and finding a copy could often be a real pain in the community chest: finding the US version was often much easier. Now, however, the Romanian version is ubiquitous, and can be picked up for around 120.00 lei in Auchan, Carrefour, Cora and Diverta Music & Film, amongst other places. We have no idea who devised the Romanian board, though aficionados will be pleased to know that all of the quirks of the original remain: the choice of streets and stations is a little arbitrary; some streets are not, in fact, streets; prices are laughably low; the rules are incomprehensible and you can still win money by coming second in a beauty contest.
A Trip Around the Bucharest Board

Rahova is a colourful working class district of Bucharest. The highlight of the area is unquestionably the amazing, huge flower market (Piata de Flori ) at the eastern end of Calea Rahovei behind Piata George Cosbuc (B-7; and just a short ride on the No. 32 tram from Piata Unirii). The flower market takes place daily (in fact, it never really closes) in the shadow of Bere Rahova, an old beer factory, some of whose marvellous red-brick buildings have recently been renovated. While the rest of Calea Rahovei is of little interest to the visitor, it is worth noting that the blocks which line the street were the first in Bucharest to be colourfully painted, some
26
bucharest monopoly
B-dul Timisoara is home, however, to one of Bucharests best shopping centres, the AFI Palace. The district of Drumul Taberei was something of a socialist showpiece when first constructed in the 1960s, a planned suburb of wide avenues, parks, hospitals, clinics and shopping centres. It remains one of the best-kept areas in the city, though poor public transport connections and its distance from th e cit y centre keeps real estate prices here down, whether they be on the Monopoly board or off. It was in this neighbourhood (then a field) that Tudor Vladimirescu camped with his forces during the failed peasants rebellion of 1821. The first of the red set is B-dul Carol I (C/D-1). The Secession houses, hotels and public buildings that line it could make it one of the finest streets in Europe. Alas many of the buildings are in poor repair, and some are considered major earthquake risks. Named B-dul Republicii during the communist period, Marxists would be horrified to discover that the Bucharest Stock Exchange (Bursa de Valori Bucuresti, BVB) once operated in the skyscraper at Nos. 34-36. Opposite, on the corner of Str. Armeneasca, is the newly renovated Biserica Armeneasca, centre of the Armenian faith in Romania. B-dul Mihai Kogalniceanu (A/B-5) is another of Bucharests many streets that carried a different name before 1989, in this case B-dul Gheorghe Gheorghiu-Dej. Lined with smart 1920s apartment blocks (and the Romanian National Opera House at its western end) look out for the large statue of Mihai Kogalniceanu himself in the small square that splits the road in two. Kogalniceanu was prime minister of Romania in the 1860s. B-dul Eroilor is home to the enormous Academia Militara (Military Academy), designed by Duiliu Marcu (also responsible for the Palatul Victoriei ) and completed in
bucharest monopoly
27
The Neo-Classical Masca Theatre, in Bucurestii Noi 1939. The Academy was one of the few places in Bucharest that saw live action during the relatively peaceful handover of power from Marshall Antonescu to King Mihai in August 1944. A small plaque in the courtyard commemorates the soldiers killed while successfully attacking the building, which played host to German military advisors throughout World War II, and which served as a last bastion of Nazism in Romania. Now almost completely swallowed by its big brother Gara de Nord, Gara Basarab is the third station on the Bucharest Monopoly board, and serves a number of Regio trains that run to and from the villages which dot the countryside around the capital. B-dul Nicolae Titulescu (A-3) which runs from Piata Victoriei to Gara de Nord, is home to almost nothing of note. Lined by tower blocks its main point of interest for visitors is the legendary Dubliner, the first Irish pub to open in Romania, back in 1995. The large Italianate building at the corner with Str. Banu Manta is the city hall of Bucharests Sector 1, built from 1927-36. B-dul 1 Mai (A/B-3/4) is one of those streets that just cant make its mind up. Marked on some maps (including the one in Bucharest In Your Pocket) as B-dul Ion Mihalache, most locals continue to use the communist era name, B-dul 1 Mai. One of the oldest arteries in the city it leads to the the suburb of Bucurestii Noi (New Bucharest), a district worthy of a footnote: constructed from 1953-7, it was a showpiece development of Neo-Classical-style buildings (including apartments and a theatre - pictured above) common in Poland and the USSR and was the first major housing project to be built in Bucharest after the communist takeover. There are similar blocks on B-dul Basarabia, opposite the Arena Nationala. The fact that Calea Dorobanti (B/C-3/4) follows B-dul 1 Mai is one of the vagaries of the Monopoly board that makes the game such fun. Regarded by many as the best address in the capital (and more deserving of a place up in the dark blues than B-dul Magheru), Dorobanti was originally known as Ulita Fierastraului, and was the private domain of 18th-century humanist Alexandru Ipsilanti, who had his summer house at the northern end of the street. It was renamed Calea Dorobantilor in 1878, in honour of the Dorobanti (foot soldiers) who died in Romanias wars of independence. Home to embassies and large villas of the
Bike Hire
Fancy tackling Bucharest by bike? Heres where you can get your hands on two wheels:
BateSaua D-3, Str. Sf. Niceta 9, tel. (+4) 021 315 98 11/(+4) 0722 73 66 94, geobatesaua@batesaua.ro, www.batesaua.ro. Good quality mountain bikes for hire. You need to phone or email 24 hours in advance, however. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. 60 lei/day (helmet not included). Helmet 6 lei/day. La Pedale B-2, Parcul Herastrau, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 0720 02 62 75. Free bike hire for up to two hours. Bring ID. La Pedale is at the entrance to Herastrau from Piata Charles de Gaulle. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Raitabike B-4, B-dul. Lascar Cartagiu 25, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0731 00 60 05, office@raitabike. ro, www.raitabike.ro. Good bikes for hire (you can choose between top-of-the-range and more basic models: prices vary accordingly. They also offer a two-hour bicycle tour of Bucharest: phone 24 hours in advance. Q Prices from 10-20 lei/2hrs, 45-60 lei/24 hrs, depending on the bike. Helmet included. Bucharest In Your Pocket
super-wealthy, its most famous landmark is the headquarters of Romanian Television (Televiziunea Romana) at No. 191. Built in 1968 in a strange, modernist style it was the scene of heavy fighting during the 1989 revolution. Avoiding the Go to Jail square (which in Bucharest means Jilava Prison, south of the city), we arrive at Piata Unirii (C-6) the centre of Nicolae Ceausescus Civic Centre (Centru Civic). Piata Unirii has in fact been around for as long as Bucharest has existed: there was a market here as early as the 16th century. Todays square is unrecognizable from that which stood here before 1980. Back then it was surrounded by low-rise houses, shops, and the early19th century Hanul lui Manuc. The Hanul is now all that remains: two sides of the square are faced by apartment blocks, while on the eastern side is Unirea: the countrys first department store when opened in 1977, and today a modern shopping centre. The once lively daily market that operated in the centre of the square is now much smaller, and hidden behind Unirea. Cotroceni is a leafy, wealthy and sought-after district of Bucharest home to Cotroceni Palace (see page 71): the official residence of Romanias president. Other residents include the Arenele BNR: home of the Romanian Open tennis tournament that takes place every September. Of all the citys streets, none is more historic than Calea Victoriei (B/C-4/5). Dating back to 1692, it was created by Constantin Brancoveanu to link the old city center around Piata Unirii with his residence at Mogosoaia. Originally built with logs, it was paved with stone in 1825, when it became a fashionable place for the wealthy to build residences. Many of the best houses remain to this day, including the Casa Vernescu at No. 133 (today home to a couple of excellent restaurants) and the Casa Romanit at No. 111 (today the Art Collection Museum: see page 72). It is also home to
numerous churches, museums, five-star hotels (including the Radisson Blu and the Athenee Palace Hilton), the former royal palace (now the National Art Museum, see page 66) and the extraordinary CEC building at No. 13. Gara de Nord (A-4) is Bucharests only railway station of any importance. All trains in and out of the capital stop here. It was opened in 1872, at once with the completion of Romanias second railway line, from Bucharest to Ploiesti. (Bucharests first station was the Gara Filaret, now a bus station). While much of the Gara de Nord building dates from the original period, it was extensively rebuilt in the 1930s, when the faade took on its present, rather minimalist linearity, inspired by the many Italian railway stations being built at the time. B-dul Magheru (C-5) is a noisy, dusty and busy street that barely warrants its place amongst the dark blues at the sexy end of the Monopoly board. It is named for Gheorghe Magheru (1802-80), an outlaw turned Wallachian general who took part in the peasant uprising of June 1848. Magheru was exiled after the uprising was put down by Turkish forces in the Autumn of 1848, and returned only after the unification of Wallachia and Moldavia in 1859. The last and most expensive property on the Bucharest Monopoly board is B-dul Primaverii (B-2) a leafy residential street in the north of the city and very much the Romanian capitals millionaires row. Lined with large villas and classy apartment blocks it is home to some of the richest and most powerful people in the country. Apartments here cost anything from 500,000 upwards. During the 1980s the well-guarded building (it remains state property) on the corner with B-dul Mircea Eliade (in those days B-dul Kalinin) was the official residence of Nicolae and Elena Ceausescu. Osho, one of Bucharests best restaurants, is at B-dul Primaverii 19-21.
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The Transfagarasan HIghway
the transfagarasan highway

The Transfagarasan then follows the outline of the lake before sharply climbing again, up to its highest point: the 890m long Capra Tunnel, at an altitude of 2042m. (This fact means that the Transfagarasan is not in fact the highest road in Romania: the Transalpina further west reaches a maximum altitude of 2145m). As you exit the tunnel the surroundings change starkly: whereas the southern side is a relatively gentle climb, made in the most part through the trees, the scene on the northern side is little short of spectacular. It is a wide open valley with the road snaking its way down; visible as far as the eye can see, this is the classic picture postcard view of the Transfagarasan that moved Jeremy Clarkson to call it every great corner from every great race track lined up one after the other. At Balea Lac, just below the tunnel, there is a comfortable pension (and in winter an ice hotel) if you want to stay up here the night. The pension also has a very good - if not cheap restaurant. See www.balealac.ro. (In winter there is a cable car which provides access to the pension and ice hotel, as the road is closed). The Fagaras Mountains are extremely popular with hikers: this is the some of the best hiking terrain in Europe. There are hundreds of well-marked routes criss-crossing the mountains, which are also dotted by mountain huts offering basic food and accommodation. At Balea Lac you can pick up routes which lead down to the town of Avrig, or up to Negoiu Peak: at 2525m the tallest mountain in the Fagaras range and the second tallest in Romania. Do not attempt any hiking in the Fagaras unless you are well equipped and have a decent map: the Fagaras mountains are not for the casual walker. From Balea Lac the 25km drive down the most spectacular part of the Transfagarasan (to Cartisoara) should take about an hour: note that at weekends when half of Romania can often appear to turn up, it can take double that and then some. As such, we advise anyone planning to drive the Transfagarasan to do so during the week, avoiding Saturday and Sunday altogether. At Cartisoara (where the Badea Cartan Museum, featuring a collection of painted glass icons and an old shepherds house complete with thatched roof is well worth a stop) those of you on a day trip should turn left onto the DN1 and head for Avrig and the DN7, which will get you back to Pitesti and the A1 in around two hours. If you are in less of a hurry head for Sibiu, Transylvanias most fabulous city, just 25km beyond Avrig: make sure you pick up a copy of Sibiu In Your Pocket to help you make the best of your time there. Note that DN7 itself runs along the Olt Valley and is a wonderful drive in itself, especially the part which passes through the Cozia National Park. If you have time stop at the 14th century Cozia Monastery: one of Romanias oldest. In 1986 stained glass windows featuring the portraits of Nicolae and Elena Ceausescu were added to those of Decebal, Burebista and other great historical Romanian leaders: they have since been removed.
29
Driving in Bucharest
More than 150 kilometres in length the Transfagarasan Highway is Romanias most spectacular and best known road and, thanks to an appearance on BBC Top Gear in 2009, now one of the countrys most popular tourist attractions. Fully open only from June to October, the roads highest point is at 2042 metres: the tunnel which links the northern and southern sides at Lake Balea (Balea Lac). The Transfagarasan - as with everything else in Romania at the time, it would seem - was built from 1970-1974 on the personal orders of Nicolae Ceausescu, who, legend has it, wanted to create a strategic route across the Fagaras Mountains to ferry troops north should Romania be invaded (as Czechoslovakia had been in 1968). This legend of course ignores the fact that a perfectly good and far quicker route around the mountains (the Valea Oltului) already existed, and that any strategic impact of a road open for only a few months each year would have been minimal. Still, who are we to question a good urban myth? A far more likely explanation for the construction of the road was the simple fact that the mountains were there, and that the road across the very top would serve as a proud example of just what socialist Romania - with Ceausescu as its leader - could achieve. Much like the Danube-Black Sea Canal project of the 1980s the Transfagarasan was therefore built as a status symbol with little regard for cost or usefulness. (Indeed, whisper it, but the Transfagarasan is fundamentally useless). Yet whereas the Danube-Black Sea Canal is today the biggest white elephant in the country (it carries very little marine traffic), the Transfagarasan has never been more popular. Always a favoured weekend trip for Romanian drivers, its international fame now means that motoring enthusiasts from all over Europe beat a path here each summer. While the you can just about do the Transfagarasan in a (long) day trip from Bucharest, we recommend taking a couple of days: besides the Transfagarasan itself there is plenty to see along the way. To get to the Transfagarasan from Bucharest, the best way is to take the A1 motorway to the industrial town of Pitesti (best known as being the place where Dacia cars are made). There is little to recommend a stop in the town itself, except perhaps the memorial north of the city centre marking the site
of Pitesti Prison. This along with Sighet in the very north of Romania was the most notorious of the communist prisons where countless intellectuals and members of the old ruling class were executed from 1948-1954. A much better choice for your first pit stop is in fact Curtea de Arges, a small town 38 kilometers north of Pitesti. It is home to the ruins of the Princely Court (Curtea Domneasca, Open 10:00-17:00) built by Basarab I in the 14th century. While there is not really very much left of the Court building itself, the well-kept church (Biserica Domneasca) is in excellent condition - it was entirely renovated from 2003-4 and open to the public. Basarab I is buried near the churchs altar. A short distance north of the city (and on the way to the Transfagarasan) is the even more impressive Biserica Episcopala Curtea de Arges, part of the Curtea de Arges Monastery. A superb example of Byzantine design, the cathedral was built between 1514 and 1526 using materials brought almost entirely from Constantinople, on the orders of Neagoe Basarab, the son of Basarab I. The DN7C officially becomes the Transfagarasan at the little village of Albestii de Arges, 6km north of Curtea de Arges. The road climbs steadily from here, and by the time you reach Capatenii Pamantului - the last village before the serious hairpins begin - the scenery is already stunning, with the road clinging in places to the cliffs as it passes through a wonderful natural gorge. Capatenii Pamantului (which rather fittingly translates, by the way, as The Ends of the Earth) is home to the ruins of the real Dracula Castle, Poienari, (real in the sense that Vlad Dracul actually lived here for a time. Bran Castle - often marketed as Draculas Lair, was never Vlads home). You will see the impressive castle high to your left as you approach: you can visit the ruins, but doing so involves a climb up more than 1500 often very steep steps. It is not for the faint of heart. A wicked series of hairpins take you high up to the next landmark, the Vidraru Dam. One of the largest hydroelectric plants in Europe the road passes across the top, and there are fabulous views of the Vidraru lake. As you come off the dam look out for the statue of Promotheus on the cliff directly in front of you.
Poienari Castle
Alas, driving in Romania is not all mountain passes and medieval castles. Indeed, even if you eschew driving in Romania yourself, a taxi ride from the airport into town will still be enough to convince you that you are not dealing with the most considerate drivers on the planet. Quite what happens to the usually placid Romanian male when he gets behind the wheel is anyones business. Romanians are by and large an intelligent bunch, so quite why they think that vast queues of traffic can magically disappear at the prolonged sound of their horn is a mystery. Romanian women in general drive far better, less aggresively and more carefully, though the fie crowd (blonde tarts in sunglasses who drive jeeps bought for them by their sponsors) are an exception. If driving in Romania - especially in Bucharest - you will need to have nerves of steel, and bags of patience. The rules of the road as you know them simply do not apply. In Romania, a good rule of thumb is that the bigger and more expensive the car, the fewer rules of the road the driver has to obey. One-way signs, for example. are purely for decoration. Drivers in Bucharest ignore them if they are inconvenient. Pedestrians are not taken into consideration when they are crossing the road, even if the priority is theirs. Even at pedestrian crossings, drivers will disregard anyone crossing the street. If a frail old lady is crossing too slowly, she can expect to be aggressively hounded. And if you think the people of Bucharest drive badly, wait until you see them park: anywhere and everywhere is a parking space in Bucharest. Though you can in theory have your car towed away for illegal parking, people rarely do. Our editor even has a website devoted to such things: visit bucharestlife.net/badlyparkedcars for a rogues gallery of idiots who have left their cars in often bizarre places. For what they are worth, the rules of the road in Romania are as follow: in towns and cities the speed limit is 50kph, while on national roads outside of built-up areas the limit is 100kph, and 130kph on the countrys few motorways. There are on-the-spot fines for a number of offences, including not wearing a seatbelt (obligatory for all passengers). The legal driving age is 18 (16 for mopeds). Fuel is relatively expensive: around 6.20 lei for a litre of premium petrol, 5.95 lei for a litre of diesel. Drinking and driving is strictly against the law, and the alcohol limit is little more than zero: one beer could easily put you over the limit, so dont take any risks.
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Where to stay
Cream of the Crop
Athenee Palace Hilton C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.com. Simply put, this has been one of Bucharests finest hotels for almost a century. It is a living piece of the citys history - it dates from 1914 - and yet inside its historic facade you will find a most modern place to stay. There is a wide range of rooms to choose from: the best are those with views over Piata Revolutiei. Indoor pool and health club, terrific onsite dining and of course this is the home of the English Bar: probably Bucharests most famous bar. Q 272 rooms. Prices from 1100-5100 lei. Prices include breakfast, but not local taxes and VAT (9%). POTHR6UFLGKDCW Carol Parc Aleea Suter 23-25, tel. (+4) 021 336 33 77, www.carolparchotel.ro. Luxurious, certainly, but offering something a bit different to the bigger players, the Carol Park is coquette and secluded: you have to know about this place, as you do not find it by chance. A gorgeous place where the finest things are offered to all who pass through its doors, expect only fine, classic furnishings and very personal service. International stars who value discretion above all else tend to stay here when visiting Bucharest. Q 17 rooms. Prices from 120-515. Prices include breakfast. VAT and taxes not included. PHRLGKW Crowne Plaza Bucharest A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1, tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.crowneplaza.com/bucharest. Contemporary and welcoming, the Crowne Plaza Bucharest offers all the reassuring global standards you would expect of the brand. With a renowned reputation for individual and friendly service, the hotel can also offer the greenest setting in the capital. Can also boast a large swimming pool, big, comfortable rooms (and bathrooms to match) and some outstanding drinking and dining options. Q 164 rooms. Prices from 690-2100 lei . Extra bed 120 lei. Prices include breakfast. VAT not included. PTHRUFGKDCW
32 32, www.hotelepoque.ro. Now heres a hotel we have no problem in recommending. Opened during the Autumn of 2010 the Epoque has a number of things going for it, not least its location on the edge of Cismigiu Park: close enough to the heart of the city yet at the same time offering the impression of a retreat. Rooms are large and tastefully furnished, there are plenty of extras (not least a plunge pool), breakfast is good and for what you get, the prices are a steal. Q 44 rooms. Prices from 160-410. Extra bed on request in the apartment. Prices include local taxes. Breakfast and VAT not included. PTHRUFLGKDCW
Where to stay
Grand Hotel Continental C-5, Calea Victoriei 56, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372 01 03 00, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. Making the very best of a wonderful building (which dates from 1886) on chic Calea Victoriei, todays Grand Hotel Continental is the result of more than two years of loving renovation and restoration. Theres marble at every turn, though do not think that modern touches are missing, for they are not. The audio-visual systems in the rooms for example are state of the art. For the great location and for a change from the big chains, its well worth trying out. Q 59 rooms. Prices from 280-800. Breakfast, VAT and local taxes included. PTHR6UFLGKDW
Calea Dorobantilor 5-7, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 00, www.hojoplaza.ro. This is a high-rise hotel in the busy centre of Bucharest, where the sleek, modern exterior is matched by the interiors, all of which carry the signatures of top-name designers. The breakfast is perhaps the best in the city, coming as it does with champagne (for those who enjoy such things in the morning), and the dining opportunities in general are excellent: there is a wonderful Japanese restaurant, Benihana, on site. To really get the best out of this place though, ask for a room on one of the upper floors, for the views over the city. Q 285 rooms. Prices from 135-385. Prices do not include breakfast, VAT or taxes. POTHR6UFLGKDW
Howard Johnson Grand Plaza Bucharest Hotel B-3,
Epoque B-5, Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C, tel. (+4) 021 312
InterContinental C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 2-4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20, www.intercontinental.com/bucharest. Still the tallest hotel in Bucharest (complete with a swimming pool and - during the summer, sun terrace - on the top floor) the InterContinental was the first major five star hotel to open in Romania, at the beginning of the 1970s. Today it is one of many but remains something of a first choice for journalists and business people, many of whom have been loyal guests for decades. The rooms here all boast big balconies with great views of the city, there is first class dining in the building, and the management is commendably hands-on. The new Club Lounge on the 21st floor is the best in the city, offering great views of Bucharest, cocktails, meeting rooms, internet, a library and an all round exclusive atmosphere. Non-guests can use the Club Lounge for 35 per day. Its open 06:30-22:30. Q 257 rooms. Prices from 110-340. Prices include breakfast, but not local taxes (9%). POTHR6FLGKDCW JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90, tel. (+4) 021 403 00 00, www.jwmarriottbucharest.com. To the south of Casa Poporului the JW Marriott occupies something of a palatial building that at first glance probably makes it the most immediately impressive of Bucharests
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Where to stay
big five star hotels. The scale of the place, and its cavernous interiors, betray the fact that it was built as part of the same grand plan as the Casa Poporului itself. Yet the rooms are homely and well-furnished, providing a welcome contrast to the building. Plenty of good dining options, and home to the biggest swimming pool in the city (we think). Q 401 rooms. Prices from 485-5000 lei. Extra bed on request in the apartment. Prices do not include breakfast and VAT. POTHR6UFLGKDCW
Where to stay
Radisson Blu B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel. (+4) 021
311 90 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bucharest. A gleaming temple of steel and glass amongst the more classical buildings of Calea Victoriei, the Radisson excels in playing the role of futuristic Bucharest hotel of choice. As you walk in the glass bar strikes you as daring and modern, and the rooms themselves are equally avant garde in design. Bathrooms offer both tubs and showers, and there is both an indoor and outdoor pool, so you can swim whatever the weather. Excellent restaurants, especially the sublime Prime Steaks and Seafood. Q 718 rooms. Prices from 500-8500 lei. Prices include breakfast (except single, double and extra bed rates). PJHRUFLGKDCW
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Novotel Bucharest City Centre B-4, Calea Victoriei 37B, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 308 85 00, www. novotel.com. Few locations are better than this, right on fashionable Calea Victoriei. The entrance is impressive: a replica of the old neoclassical National Theatre which stood on this exact site until the British bombed it to next week during the Second World War. Shiny and new the main part of the hotel is wonderful: rooms are big, with bathrooms particularly impressive. Excellent, lively lobby bar and a big indoor swimming pool are other added benefits of staying here. Q 258 rooms. Prices from 65 -200. Extra bed on request in the apartment. Prices do not include breakfast, VAT or taxes. POTHR6UFLGKDCW Pullman Bucharest World Trade Center A-1, P-ta
Montreal 10, tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00, www.pullmanhotels.com. The spacious, luxurious rooms are the main attraction at this high rise in the north of the city, where the bathrooms boast perhaps the deepest bathtubs in the city. There are separate showers, and all in all we think that the square-meterage-per-euro ratio is higher here than anywhere else in Bucharest. A good on-site steak house keeps you well fed, and though there is no pool there is a good fitness centre with sauna and massage available. Q 203 rooms. Prices from 205-800. Extra bed 20. Prices do not include VAT, local taxes and breakfast. PTHR6UFLGKDW
Over 150
Alexander Sos. Pipera-Tunari 1/VI, tel. (+4) 021 569 51 10/(+4) 021 569 51 19, www.alexanderhotel.ro. Big, plush hotel close to Bucharests high-rise business district of Pipera. Rooms are all well-sized and impeccably furnished and come with a host of extras. The bathrooms are particularly luxurious. The hotel has a good little spa centre with sauna, Turkish bath and jacuzzi. Great breakfast - which is amongst the citys best - included in the price of your room. Q 73 rooms. Prices from 160-380. Prices include breakfast, VAT and local taxes. PiHRFLKDW Cismigiu C-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 38, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 403 05 00, www.hotelcismigiu.ro. One of the most famous hotels in Bucharest (there is even a song about the place: Hotel Cismigiu, by Vama Veche) reopens its doors after being closed for almost two decades. In a fantastic location right in the heart of the city, millions have been spent making the hotel look better than at any time in its century-old history. The contemporary rooms - all
of which are in fact suites - are enormous, many even boasting kitchens. Theres a fitness centre, wifi throughout, a great breakfast is included and there is even onsite parking. Worth every penny. Q 60 rooms. Prices from 210-270. Extra bed 30. Prices include breakfast, VAT and local taxes. PTHRUFLGKW Romana, tel. (+4) 021 319 44 44, www.hotelmarshalgarden.ro. Spacious, colourful and original, this hotel is a fantastic place and one of few new Bucharest hotels to really perk up our attention. The decor is amazing: bright, full of multi-coloured arabesques each floor has a different mood, while the mural behind reception is alone worth popping in to see. Good staff, big rooms, modern bathrooms, smashing breakfast, free Wifi. Its worth the money. Q 63 rooms. Prices from 70-270. Prices include breakfast, VAT and local taxes. . PTHUFLGKDW 021 300 05 45, www.nh-hotels.com. Not located in the most attractive area of the city, the NH makes up for that by offering a modern, contemporary hotel experience for a fair amount of money: you can usually stay here for far less than the rack rates. Expect well sized rooms with plenty of extras and a very good on site restaurant. Good place to stay with children and babies: the staff make a point of making them feel welcome. Q 76 rooms. Price 150. Prices include VAT. Breakfast not included. PTHRUFLGKW
ence: many of the rooms have jacuzzis in their bathrooms and are packed with luxuries such as the huge, high double beds, which are among the best weve come across in Bucharest. Q 56 rooms. Prices from 100-170. Extra bed 20. Prices include VAT and breakfast. PHRUGKW
Marshal Garden C-4, Calea Dorobanti 50B, MPiata
Ramada Bucharest Parc A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel. (+4) 021 549 20 00, www.ramadabucharestparc.ro. The Hotel Parc has been around a while, but only came under the Ramada banner a short while ago. A high-rise in a leafy suburb (close to Romexpo and Herastrau Park - hence the name) it boasts nice rooms which - while not big - are comfortable and boast brightly coloured dcor and gorgeous, soft cotton sheets on the beds. Great buffet breakfast included in the price. Q 267 rooms. Prices from 139-210. Prices include breakfast. PHRGKW Ramada Majestic B-4, Calea Victoriei 38-40, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 27 72, www.ramadamajestic.ro. Standing (dare we say it) majestically on Calea Victoriei, the Majestic has long been one of Bucharests best hotels. It offers very big rooms with glorious bathrooms, a great breakfast and - a real bonus - a swimming pool (albeit a rather small one). In a city in which even some of the five star hotels lack pools, the Majestics makes it well worth that little bit extra cash. Q 111 rooms. Prices from 240-1200. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTHRUi FLGKDCW Ramada Plaza Bucharest B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel. (+4) 021 549 30 00, www.ramadaplazabucharest.ro. Slightly more upmarket than its sister establishment across the road, what you get here is a slightly bigger room than at the Parc, and much bigger bathrooms. The design of the place is nicely futuristic, and we loved the beds which we think are August - September 2013
NH Bucharest D-6, B-dul Mircea Voda 21, tel. (+4)
Parliament A-6, Str. Izvor 106, tel. (+4) 021 411 99 90,
www.parliament-hotel.ro. So named because it is located behind Romanias parliament building, Casa Poporului, which you can see from almost all of the rooms. This hotel has been around for a decade now and offers a four/five star experi-
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Where to stay
Where to stay
35
the Central was totally renovated last year and is now one of the best (and best value) stays in the city. We like the staff who are always friendly, and who go out of their way to make sure you do not get ripped off by dodgy taxi drivers: such attention to detail is to be applauded. Q 62 rooms. Prices from 140-180. Extra bed 20. Prices include all taxes and breakfast. PTHR6UGW
recommend it), and as such we think this is a great place for families with children to stay when visiting the capital. Not cheap, we think that you get value for money, especially given the size of the rooms and the terrific breakfast spread they lay on every morning for guests. Staff happy and smiley too. Q 33 rooms. Prices from 130-170. Prices include all taxes and breakfast. PTHR6UGKW
Duke C-4, B-dul Dacia 33, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4)
amongst the best in Bucharest. Free Wifi is a bonus, there is a good lobby bar and a decent on site bistro. Good value for the money. Q 298 rooms. Prices from 159-270. Prices include breakfast. PHRUFGKW
Z Executive Boutique Hotel C-5, Str. Ion Nistor 4,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 140 02 00, www.zhotels. ro. You want central? Well this place is central. In a building on a street hidden a little behind the Sutu Palace this is a great place from which to enjoy the delights of Old Town and indeed the whole of central Bucharest. Rooms are big and modern, tastefully furnished and come with comfortable beds and good bathrooms. Plenty of little luxuries, not least full, free Wifi throughout. The breakfast room is great, and theres an on site bistro with great views of the busy streets outside. Q 21 rooms. Prices from 99-129. Extra bed 20. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTHR6ULGKW
rooms that come complete with what have to be contenders for the best bathrooms in the city prize we often mention but never get round to handing out. In good weather the terrace at the back is a great place to take your breakfast (included in the price of a room). Q 32 rooms. Prices from 65-75. Extra bed 10. Prices include VAT, all taxes and breakfast. PHRLGKW
021 317 41 86/(+4) 021 317 41 87, www.hotelduke. ro. Now this place is central. A proverbial stones throw from Piata Romana, this modern hotel is squeezed in to a tight spot between two classic Bucharest buildings of the past. Rooms are well-sized, bathrooms have tubs and showers, and theres free and fast Wifi throughout. Beds get high marks for their excellent mattresses.Q 37 rooms. Prices from 75-145. Extra bed 20. Prices include VAT and breakfast. PRGKW
Residence Arc de Triomphe A-3, Str. Clucerului 19,
100-150
Angelo Airporthotel Bucharest Calea Bucurestilor
283, tel. (+4) 021 203 65 00, www.angelo-bucharest. com. The hotel closest to Bucharests Otopeni airport. The Angelo is operated by Vienna International Hotels & Resorts, and its bright exterior is matched by the interior: bold colours abound in all the rooms and the common areas. There is high speed Wifi throughout, and a fitness centre complete with sauna. Transport to and from the airport is complimentary. Great buffet breakfast. Q 177 rooms. Prices from 100-150. Prices include VAT, local taxes and breakfast. PTHR6UFLGKDW 77, www.hotelarmonia.ro. Not altogether that inviting from the outside, the Armonia offers terrific (though not all that big)
Berthelot B-5, Str. General Berthelot 9, tel. (+4) 031 425 58 60/(+4) 0771 65 40 09, www.hotelberthelot. ro. Smart, modern and dead central. What more could you want? For your money you are getting a good deal here: the rooms are big and well furnished with plenty of mod cons, such as LCD televisions, while the bathrobes in the sumptuous bathrooms are suitably fluffy and the cosmetics a cut above the norm. Q 43 rooms. Prices from 109-129. Extra bed 20. Prices include VAT, all taxes and breakfast. PTHRLGKW Capital Plaza B-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 54, tel. (+4) 0372 08 00 80, www.capitalplaza.ro. Looking for the business traveller not wanting to pay five star prices, one of the best hotels in the city is this smart place at the northern end of the city centre, about five minutes walk from Piata Victoriei. The rooms are big and furnished in a modern style, with unobtrusive colours and smart lines. Bathrooms are good, and the range of free cosmetics is impressive. Top onsite restaurant too, the 1880. Q 95 rooms. Prices from 90-150. Prices include breakfast and VAT. PTHRUi FLGKW Central B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 13, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 56 36, www.thhotels.ro. Central by name, central by nature. Slap, bang on Bucharests version of Broadway (its all relative), amongst cinemas and theatres, bucharest.inyourpocket.com
El Greco C-5, Str. Jean Louis Calderon 16, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 81 31/(+4) 021 315 81 41, www.hotelelgreco.ro. Located in the heart of what was, pre-World War II, the most stylish residential area in the city. This is one such villa dating from that period, though it has of course been renovated and refurbished to include a rack of modern luxuries. Fortunately, however, the ambience of the ancien regime has been preserved, making this one of the best villa conversions in the city. Q 20 rooms. Prices from 95-140. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast for one person. PTHRULGKW Opera B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 37, tel. (+4) 021 312 48
55, www.thhotels.ro. You could quite literally throw a stone from the rooms here into Cismigiu Park (though we do not
tel. (+4) 021 223 19 78/(+4) 0372 15 07 00, www. residencehotels.com.ro. Fantastic hotel in a good area of the capital, offering large, excellent value rooms and super services. There are little touches of class all over the hotel that suggest they really care. The wrought iron beds, for example, are fabulous, as is the newly added spa, complete with sauna and jacuzzi. The restaurant is also worth a visit, serving good international cuisine. Q 35 rooms. Prices from 90-120. VAT not included. Prices include breakfast. PTHRLGKDW
Residence Domenii Plaza A-2, Str. Al. Constantinescu 33, tel. (+4) 021 224 50 44/(+4) 0372 15 06 00, www. residencehotels.com.ro. A wonderful villa, this place offers real luxury and a quiet, understated atmosphere. Its a classy place for classy people, basically. All the rooms, studios and apartments are bright, big and have stunning bathrooms. It also has a fantastic spa, complete with sauna, steam bath and enormous jacuzzi, perfect for tired business types in need of evening relaxation. The rooftop terrace has fine views of what is the citys best residential area, and the food in the restaurant better than most of Bucharests restaurants: it is really that good. Q 33 rooms. Prices from 90-120. Prices include breakfast. VAT not included. PTHRLi GKDW
Armonia D-4, Calea Mosilor 112, tel. (+4) 021 312 04
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Where to stay
Drumul Odaii 1D, Otopeni, tel. (+4) 021 352 87 19, www.hotelcharter.ro. For what you pay at this hotel, you get a large amount of room indeed. Really: these must be the biggest hotel rooms in Bucharest, and they cost about 1 per square metre. Close to the airport (on the other side of the road to McDonalds) this place is perfect if you have an early flight, though it is only fair to say that it is a good 30 minutes or so to the city centre. Still, with rooms and services to match anywhere, and at prices as low as these, we doubt anyone will be complaining. Q 21 rooms. Prices from 20-55. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTRLGW tel. (+4) 0727 59 95 99, www.hoteldan.ro. Serving a terrific buffet breakfast (until 11:00) this hotel has long been one of our favourites. Its location a short distance from the city centre is good, and the rooms are well sized, as are the bathrooms: all of which have tubs, not just showers. Good, friendly staff and the kind of homely atmosphere you would expect of a small well-run hotel. Q 15 rooms. Prices from 45-85. Extra bed 25. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PHRULGW
Where to stay
Charter
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Dan B-4, B-dul Dacia 125, tel./fax (+4) 021 210 39 58,
Under 100
Amzei B-4, P-ta Amzei 8, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021
313 94 00, www.hotelamzei.ro. Want a room in the heart of Bucharest? This place is for you. A delicious villa conversion in the middle of Piata Amzei, close to, well, everything. The rooms are all enormous, all are individually furnished and have bags of character, many with sloping ceilings and hidden nooks and crannies. The bathrooms are a little more modest, but are a decent size and very well decorated. Q 22 rooms. Prices from 79-129. Extra bed 20. Prices include breakfast, VAT and local taxes. PTHRLGKW
DoubleT ree by Hilton D-7, Str. Nerva Traian 3A, tel. (+4) 021
(+4) 021 310 56 68, www.hotelmonaco.ro. A nice place on a quiet(ish) street yet still close enough to the city centre to be within walking distance. There is an elegance to the decoration that suggests theyve taken real time and effort over things, and the beds are large, comfortable and covered with crisp yet soft sheets. Wifi, flatscreen TVs, good bathrooms. The kind of place you feel should cost a lot more than it does: seriously good value for money. Q 8 rooms. Prices from 50-65. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTLW
Boutique Hotel Monaco C-5, Str. J. L. Calderon 74, tel.
200 62 70, www.doubletree.com. Located just off Bulevardul Unirii, the DoubleT ree is something of a beacon of glass and steel in an area not known for anything except monumental socialist architecture. The hotel is a decent place offering big-ish rooms, with commendably big bathrooms. Happy, multi-lingual staff are a bonus not always found in Bucharests hotels. Good cafes (there are two) to choose from on the ground floor: one has a covered terrace. Q 87 rooms. Prices from 115-250. Prices include local taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTHRUFLGKDW
Europa Royale Bucharest C-6, Str. Franceza 60, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 319 17 98, www.europaroyale. com. The Europa Royale is a gorgeous place that complements instead of overpowering its surroundings. Literally a stones throw from where Bucharest began, at the Curtea Veche, facing Piata Unirii, it is as ideally located as you ever hope for. Inside the rooms are big, classy and we found the staff exemplary. A genuinely welcome addition to Bucharest and the Old Town, and not as pricey as you might think. Q 92 rooms. Prices from 85-200. Extra bed 20. Breakfast, VAT and local taxes included. PTH6UGKW Golden Tulip Bucharest B-4, Calea Victoriei 166,
MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 212 55 58, www.goldentulipbucharest.com. Half-way along Calea Victoriei, a pleasant walk to both Piata Victoriei and Piata Universitatii, the Golden Tulip is a fine hotel that makes great use of the space available. The bathrooms for example are not huge but feel far bigger than they are, and all have enough room for bathtubs. Bright and modern in design we think its suited best to business travellers looking to get great value for their companys dollar. Q 81 rooms. Prices from 85-105. Prices include VAT, all taxes and breakfast. PTJHRUFLGKW
Homely rooms with bags of character, good bathrooms and kitchenettes. Add in great staff and a quiet location and you have one of Bucharests real bargains. We love the place. Q 6 rooms. Prices from 40-50. Prices include breakfast, VAT and local taxes.
Ibis Gara de Nord A-4, Calea Grivitei 143, MGara de

Nord, tel. (+4) 021 300 91 00, www.ibishotels.ro. A hotel for more than 40 years this building (and the whole area) was given a real lift when it became a good old Ibis some several years ago now. Expect a room a bit bigger than standard Ibis size, the usual services, few frills (breakfast costs extra) and all in all a good value stay. The name is not misleading: it is dead opposite the station. Q 250 rooms. Prices from 49-79. Prices include VAT and local taxes. Breakfast not included. (9 per person). PHR6ULGKW
Caro C-1, B-dul Barbu Vcrescu 164A, MAurel Vlaicu, tel. (+4) 021 208 61 00, www.carohotel.ro. The Caro is in fact three hotels in one: the Caro Golf, a four-star establishment offering very swish rooms, the Caro Parc: one of the best three-stars in the city, and the outstanding value budget two-star Caro Horoscop. All three offer bright rooms with excellent bathrooms, and there is terrific buffet breakfast in the Belvedere restaurant. The surroundings are leafy and yet the citys business district is just across the street. There is free wifi at the Caro Golf. Q 188 rooms. Prices from 57-150. Prices include VAT and breakfast. PTH6UFLKDCW
Golden Tulip Times E-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii, tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16, fax (+4) 021 316 65 19, reservations@goldentuliptimes.com, www.goldentuliptimes.com. This, people, is a very good hotel where you get a hell of a lot of room for a relatively small amount of money. All come furnished well with terrific beds, big desks and comfy armchairs. Bathrooms are equally impressive and modern. There is Wifi throughout and a host of extras: not least of which is the fantastic breakfast. The on site restaurant is one of the best hotel-based eateries in the city.Q 70 rooms. Prices from 78-98. Extra bed 29. Prices include VAT, all taxes and breakfast. PTHRLGKW
tel. (+4) 0372 12 18 00, www.hellohotels.ro. Two stars never looked so good. For your paltry amount of cash you are getting a lot of hotel room here, complete with flat screen televisions and mattresses thicker than many a five-star. Bathrooms are a bit pokey but they are more than adequate, and as far as value for money goes we think this is one of the best deals in the city. Find the place a short walk from the station. Q 150 rooms. Prices from 33-69. Prices include VAT and taxes. Breakfast not included. PR6ULGKW
Symbol Key
P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet (Standard) F Fitness centre D Sauna W WiFi A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Disabled facilities L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms C Swimming pool
Hello Hotels B-4, Calea Grivitei 143, MGara de Nord,
M Nearest metro station K Restaurant
Hotel Nonna Mia C-3, Str. Chile 10, MStefan cel Mare,
tel. (+4) 021 231 22 83/(+4) 0728 60 22 83, www. nonnamia.ro/hotel-nonnamia. A bed and breakfast with an Italian twist (the fantastic restaurant on the ground floor).
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Where to stay
Short Term Rental
bl. X/2, sc. A, ap. 6, tel. (+4) 021 232 04 06, www. aparthomes.ro. A wide range of city-centre apartments, from studios to two-bedroomed places, as well as a villa in Baneasa. Whats more, they have someone on call 24 hours for any emergencies, maid service twice a week and offer a variety of other services. Q 20 rooms (5 singles/doubles 50, 5 triples 85, 5 suites 100, 5 apartments 150). Prices include breakfast and local taxes. VAT not included. PTR6GW
Where to stay
Apart Homes C-6, Str. George Valentin Bibescu 33,
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Cert Accommodation B-5, Piata Walter Maracineanu 1-3, tel. (+4) 0720 77 27 72, www.cert-accommodation.ro. A very good selection of fully furnished, elegant, serviced studios, one, two and three bedroom apartments in and around the city centre. Cleaning is free, and they can also arrange car hire and airport transfers. Cheaper rates for longer stays. Q 21 rooms (6 studios 40, 15 apartments 55 - 100). Prices include local taxes and VAT. Breakfast not included. POTFLGKW Grand Accommodation B-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 29,
tel. (+4) 0722 36 75 68/(+4) 021 314 49 50, www.forrent.ro. Grand Accommodation has a variety of well furnished apartments and villas to suit all pockets in good locations available for both short and long term rentals. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Prices from 30-80/night. VAT included.
Ibis Palatul Parlamentului B-6, Str. Izvor 82-84, tel. (+4) 021 401 10 00, www.ibishotels.ro. If you want a view of Casa Poporului then this is perhaps the best place in Bucharest to come. Other than that it is a fairly standard Ibis hotel, just as you love them from anywhere else on the planet. Not entirely ideally located if you are not driving, it does boast non-smoking rooms and very good staff. Q 161 rooms. Prices from 49-95. Prices include VAT and local taxes. Breakfast not included. (9 per person). PTHR6ULGKW Minerva B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4, MPiata Victoriei,
tel. (+4) 021 311 15 55, fax (+4) 021 312 39 63, www. minerva.ro. Having been around so long the Minerva is entitled to a gold watch, it remains a great choice for business people who pay their own bills: you get great service, a good room (a choice of smoking or non-smoking), a dead-central location yet are only asked for a fraction of what the fivestars charge. The oldest Chinese restaurant in Romania is located on the ground floor, there is a lively bar and a good spa, complete with jacuzzi, sauna, Turkish bath and massage. Q 147 rooms. Prices from 75-111. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PHRFGKDW
renovate buildings in Old Town Bucharest (the gorgeous cafe next door belongs unsurprisingly to the same people). Luxurious without overdoing it, expect to find original 1920s wooden floors and period furnishings complimented by up-to-the-minute technology. Q 16 rooms. Prices from 75118. Extra bed available. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTRUGKW 412 60 00, www.sarrogliahotel.com. Bright, contemporary and architecturally stunning hotel that looks expensive yet costs relatively little. The rooms are chic and pack a real punch in the comfort stakes, and each comes with an individual feel to it, often in the form of a full-wall mural. The location is close enough to the centre to be attractive while remaining residential: this is a quiet area of town. The hotels restaurant and lounge provide colour and panache. Q 32 rooms. Prices from 74-110. Prices include breakfast, VAT and local taxes. PHRUFLGKW 311 49 27/(+4) 021 311 49 28, www.hoteltrianon. ro. You cant do much better than this cracking place on Str. Cobalcescu, opposite Cismigiu Park. The building is a superb Secession renovation on a street that boasts some extraordinary buildings: it is a shame not all are up to this standard. Inside the rooms are simple, tastefully decorated and offer excellent value for money.Q 26 rooms. Prices from 85-133. Extra bed 18. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTHR6UGKW
close to the citys best night spots and restaurants. Rooms are not big but are comfortable, equipped with all mod-cons and have excellent en suite bathrooms.Q 8 rooms. Prices from 30-40. Prices include local taxes and VAT. Breakfast not included. PHGW
Hostels & Villas

Flowers B & B D-5, Str. Plantelor 2, tel./fax (+4) 021
311 98 48, www.flowersbb.ro. Very close to Piata Unirii this place is exactly what it claims to be: a proper, homely bed and breakfast. Few frills, little fuss, just first class hospitality from great staff who will make your stay as comfortable as possible. In warmer months you can have your breakfast outside in the lovely courtyard. Q 18 rooms. Prices from 35-55. Prices include taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTR6LGW
Sarroglia Hotel C-5, Str. Vasile Lascar 59, tel. (+4) 031
Ramada Hotel & Suites Bucharest North C-6, Str.
Daniel Danielopolu 44A, tel. (+4) 021 233 50 00, www. ramadanorth.ro. Well located in a quiet residential area near Herastrau park. It has great rooms - amongst the biggest, on average, in Bucharest - and the bathrooms are tremendous: all have bathtubs. There are also studios with kitchenettes for longer stays. The hotel boasts a good spa centre (with excellent Turkish bath), a big fitness room with loads of equipment and an outdoor terrace and swimming pool.Q 232 rooms. Prices from 59-99. Extra bed 10. Prices include all taxes, VAT and breakfast. PTHR6UFLGKDCW
Trianon B-5, Str. Grigore Cobalcescu 9, tel. (+4) 021
Vila 11 A-4, Str. Institutul Medico Militar 11, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 0722 49 59 00. Located in a lovely 1920s house close to Gara de Nord (one block east of Strada Vespatian and Dinicu Golescu) Vila 11 has a variety of private rooms, dorm facilities and family suites available for backpackers and families of all ages. Friendly and welcoming the owners do a great breakfast and are a wealth of inside info about Bucharest. Q 6 rooms. Prices from 20-54. Prices include breakfast, VAT and local taxes. T6GW X Hostel C-6, Str. Balcesti 9, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 312 76 13, www.xhostel.eu. A hostel with something of partycentral reputation. As such it is probably not the best place in town for a quiet night in, yet the young crowd that frequents the place hardly mind that. Good, clean dorms and bathrooms, and a number of singles for those who can splash the extra cash. Q 24 rooms. Prices from 5-45. Prices include local taxes and VAT. Breakfast not included. PT6GKDW August - September 2013
Rembrandt C-5, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro. Always full (reserve well in advance) you will see why when you arrive. The Rembrandt is what happens when people with taste Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Villa Barrio B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 3, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0734 33 30 20, www.barrio.ro. Bang in the centre of the city this villa, once the residence of the legendary Cartagiu family, is a terrific choice for anyone looking to be bucharest.inyourpocket.com
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Restaurants
American
206 62 61, sales@hardrockcafe.ro, www.hardrock. com/bucharest. One of the largest Hard Rocks in Europe, you cant go wrong here, whatever time of day you visit. Come for lunch with the kids (who are always well looked after and have their own menu), dinner with the crowd from work or late drinks and live music with your mates. All things to all people the burgers and ribs are a cut above the usual, desserts are as outsized and sweet as they should be, and the service comes from smiley waitresses and expert bar staff. We love it. Lets rock. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PLEBSW
Restaurants
Hard Rock Cafe A-2, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021
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Asian
QuanQuan B-dul Ion Ionescu de la Brad 1A, tel. (+4) 021
269 21 88, office@restaurantmongol.ro, www.restaurantmongol.ro. Finally, Bucharest gets a proper Mongolian restaurant, where you pick the ingredients you want and hand them over to the chef who cooks it all on a hot plate for you. Its big, bright and airy and service is terrific, and there are various set menus for the indecisive, including a quick lunch for busy office types. Its a taxi-ride from the city centre, but well worth the trip. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. . PTLW
Belgian
88/(+4) 0744 526 048, www.waterloo-taverne.com. This is a rough and ready type place, with long bench seats. Its fun. The menu is far more adventurous than you might imagine, featuring duck with white sauce, chicken with beer and even some fondue. Good prices and great value all round: well worth a look, especially if there is a group of you. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PBSW
Waterloo D-5, Str. Traian 188, tel. (+4) 021 320 35
British
The Trafalgar Pub C-4, Str. David Emmanuel 4A, tel.
(+4) 021 211 31 51, office@trafalgarpub.eu, www. trafalgarpub.eu. Popular with all sorts of expats who have a regular rendezvous here, this place is a pub and bistro in one, where you can get a decent meal for little money while enjoying usually decent company. The menu has a few British dishes - we can recommend the Spinach and Stilton Pie - but best of all we like the ciorba de vacuta - one of the best in the city, and the ciolan cu varza - pork knuckle with cabbage and beans. Guinness on draught at a decent price. Accepts Amex: not everywhere in Bucharest does. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PLVEBSW
little piece of Bucharest foodie history was the first Chinese restaurant in the land. It is still one of the best, as its longevity (no mean feat in a city where good eateries come and go fast) testifies. Prices are reasonable, the setting is good, with a nice covered terrace overlooking busy Bulevardul Lascar Cartagiu. You will find the Nan Jing on the ground floor of the Minerva hotel. On weekday afternoons from 14:00-17:00 their Happy Lunch offers a 50 per cent discount. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLVBSW
a range of fine wines from one of Romanias best vineyards this place is top notch. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. . PLEBSW MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0733 73 59 32, veranda@ casafrumoasa.ro, www.verandacasafrumoasa.ro. Simply put, this one of the top five restaurants in Bucharest. Combining a contemporary setting with fine food, this is a gourmets delight. The frequently changing menu is a mix of cuisines and flavours and always - no matter how often you come - features something new and exciting to try. The conservatory-esque setting is terrific, and there are outstanding wines and champagnes to complement the food. A top, top place. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PLBSW
Veranda Casa Frumoasa B-4, Str. Clopotarii Vechi 5,
Fine Dining
Maison 13 C-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 2, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0751 13 13 13, maison13@coolavenue. ro. For years this place was Balthazar, one of the best restaurants ever in Bucharest. Dare we suggest that Maison 13 is even better? Completely different to its predecessor it is brighter, more contemporary and, if you want our opinion, more welcoming than the often stuffy and stuck-up Balthazar could be. This is fine dining without the heirs and graces, so get here and enjoy a menu of adventurous treats that changes regularly: so much so that individual recommendations are pointless. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. . PBW
03 00, rezervari@morganladud.ro, www.morganladud. ro. Dud in Romanian means mulberry, so you will understand the reason behind the name of this place the minute you see an impeccably preserved Morgan and step inside the gorgeous courtyard complete with mulberry tree in the middle. The food is special, from the pasta (all made on the premises) to the exciting variations of Romanian classics (sarmale made with mutton and rolled in mulberry leaves, for example). The White Duchess gateaux makes for a smashing dessert. With
Chinese
Restaurant 5 Elemente C-5, Str. Icoanei 15, tel.
(+4) 0766 33 15 11, contact@cincielemente.ro, www. cincielemente.ro. Suddenly Bucharest has a choice of great Chinese restaurants. This place is brought to you by the team behind the uber-successful Imperial, on the coast in Mamaia, which foodies have been raving about for years. Expect superior, mainly northern Chinese food made of the finest ingredients, many of which are specially imported. The crispy duck is perhaps the best in the country, and they even serve lobster. Get there now. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PSW
Food & Drink

What do we mean by Food & Drink? Simple: places in which you could just as easily sit down and have a three course meal as you could spend a night on the beer or cocktails.
Morgan La Dud C-5, Str. Sperantei 7, tel. (+4) 0752 70
18 Lounge A-1, P-ta Presei Libere 3-5, tel. (+4) 0733 50 14
Restaurant Nan Jing B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4,
MPiata Victoriei/Piata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 318 12 85/(+4) 0726 10 34 07, comanda@lachinezesc. ro, www.restaurantnanjing.ro. Dating back to 1980s this
01, office@18lounge.ro, www.18lounge.ro. Lunch or dinner with a view? This is the place to come people. On the 18th floor of one of the tallest office buildings in the city, this place doesnt need to serve decent food to attract clients: fortunately, it does. More than just a restaurant the lunch is a great deal, and late in the evening it becomes a smooth, relaxed pace to hang out. It is also a self-declared anti-fitze establishment (much like its sister locations in the centre of town) and the vibe is always a little trendy but never kitsch. We like it. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:30. . PLBW
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Restaurants
to spend more time here. The menu features a number of simple, new-wave French dishes which - for this city - are very well-priced. Excellent wine list which, while featuring a great selection of French wines, for once acknowledges that the New World can make a decent grape too. In short, this place is a mini-revolution on the Bucharest dining scene and worthy of your time. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PEBSW
Restaurants
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Embassy C-4, P-ta Lahovari 8, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 00, office@embassy-club.ro, www. embassy-club.ro. Popular with a wealthy crowd, the central and original Embassy (there are a couple of spin-offs in town) has been around a few years now, and in this city longevity alone is a sign of how good it is. Serving a good gourmet burger - widely regarded as one of the citys best - and much else besides (including some great cocktails) it is the kind of place that grows on you as the evening wears on, and in all likeliness you will stay until very late. We usually do. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Mon 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. . BSW Market 8 B-3, Str. Serban Petrescu 8, tel. (+4) 0734 80 80 80/(+4) 021 231 51 43, restaurant@market8.ro, www.market8.ro. Have we been along this road before? Yes, there was once a Market 8 in Lipscani: it didnt last very long, so lets hope this one lasts longer, for its nice. Using much the same concept as before (designer goodies alongside designer fusion - and then some - food), the new location is perhaps better suited to the crowd it wants to attract (monied, trendy) and despite initial doubts we were more than won over on our first visit. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . PSW
Blu), tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00. The Radissons terrace is - as the name suggests - situated at the side of the hotels big outdoor swimming pool, in a courtyard at the rear. Come for barbequed meats, salads, terrific bar food - including a genuinely great cheeseburger with bacon. The cocktail list is good too, and prices are reasonable: very good value for money. Q Open 12:30 - 23:30. Sunday Brunch & Plunge from 12:30 - 16:30, 220 lei/pers, 110 lei for children under twelve, includes entrance to the pool. . BW
there is plenty of room, making it just right for afternoons and evenings with family or friends. Relax and enjoy the rather special homemade ice tea and barbeque food while the kids play in the childrens corner: there are all sorts of toys to keep them entertained. We should add that the service is good, and the prices are more than affordable. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. In case of bad weather, Champions (inside the hotel) will be happy to welcome you. . TULBSW
Ici et La C-4, Str. Mendeleev 43, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0731 45 36 08/(+4) 0731 35 26 08, icietla43@ yahoo.fr, www.icietla.ro. As regular readers will know we are suckers for an open kitchen, and that is what we have here: sit and watch the chef and owner prepare your gorgeous homemade French meal. They are rather proud of their smoked salmon here (and rightly so) and the wine list features plenty of affordable grape. Top it all off with the magnificent creme brulee. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Closed until August 25. . PVEBSW
MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0725 21 06 08, contact@ lacantinedenicolai.ro, www.lacantinedenicolai.ro. Those who know their food know that this place is one of the top ten restaurants in the land. Beyond the Warhol prints on the walls this is French du terroir, where simple yet perfect flavours are allowed to breathe by a gifted chef who cooks for his customers as though he is cooking for his best mates. It is not cheap, but then dishes like scallops with mash potatoes and a truffle and veal sauce never can be. Special. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PVEBSW
La Cantine de Nicolai B-4, Str. Povernei 15-17,
The Harbour B-4, P-ta Amzei 10-22, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 319 72 57/(+4) 0724 38 86 86, office@ harbour.ro, www.harbour.ro. A top location, in Piata Amzei, with food to match, as well as friendly and efficient staff. The atmosphere is relaxing, the food better than average, though the real joy of this place is its view to the market. We came here for lunch recently and were stunned by how many foreigners were eating here: it must be one of the most popular tourist and visitor spots in town. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. . PLVBSW
Fusion
Avalon B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard Johnson Grand Plaza), MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 30, avalon@hojoplaza.ro, www.hojoplaza.ro/ro/avalonrestaurant. At Avalon, the jewel in the HoJos dining crown, knowing diners come to enjoy the flavours and smells of the superb fusion cuisine. Every time we visit (and we visit as often as we can) we find something new and interesting - and usually inventive - on the menu (which changes regularly) and a good new wine to go with our meal. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 180 lei/pers, children under seven free, children between seven and 12 years half price. . PLSW Barrio by Embassy B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 30, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0733 22 27 77, enjoy@barrio.ro, www.barrio.ro. Wonderful bar, cafe and restaurant (the place works as all three) where besides expertly mixed cocktails you can enjoy some sensational food, chosen from one of the most adventurous menus in the city. Roasted duck breast with rice and kumquat sauce and sea bass with ratatouille and celery sauce are just two of the standout dishes we entirely recommend. Not as dear as you might think either. Worth a visit. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 01:00. . PEBKSW
French
Boutique du Pain C-5, Str. Academiei 28-30, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 44 33 00, boutiquedupain@gmail. com, www.boutiquedupain.com. Everything you want from a city-centre eatery and a lot more. This is in fact more bistro than anything, serving breakfast, lunch and evening meals in fresh, bright surroundings. The selection of morning pastries is the best in the city, with office workers going out of their way to stop here for fresh supplies. For lunch there is a range of sandwiches hard to beat anywhere else, and the small selection of hot meals of an evening - the menu changes daily - are perfect for a casual dinner. Serving great coffee and a magnificent hot chocolate, we (and our kids!) love this place. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. . PSW Escargot Bistro D-4, Str. Toamnei 101, tel. (+4) 021 201 71 33/(+4) 0746 79 50 29, bistro@escargot.ro, www.escargot.ro. Bucharest foodies: this is the place for you. A little non-descript from the outside, it is a sensational French restaurant where the love and care the chef has for his food oozes onto your plate. Duck that takes 48 hours to prepare, an onion soup of the like weve never eaten in Bucharest, fresh snails, outstanding wines and all served in minimalist surroundings: the food is king here. Lovely terrace. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . BSW
Golescu 17, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 310 33 02, info@frenchbakery.ro, www.frenchbakery.ro. It had to happen. A French restaurant that actually delivers the goods time after time yet does so in an atmosphere that begs you
Poolside Grill B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson
Robertos on La Strada C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3
(Athenee Palace Hilton, access from Calea Victoriei), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77. La Strada has been the setting the standard for Bucharest terraces for more than a decade and a half. This terrific place at the Hilton remains a great place to come for very good food (the main Robertos menu is also available outside) and a beer, a few cocktails, or something more formal. Brilliant location and the plethora of comfy sofas perfect for long evenings chatting with friends are a bonus. Q Open 12:00 - 23:30. . UBSW Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 19, thegarden@marriott.com, www.championsrestaurant.ro. First-class terrace to the right of the big hotel. Its something of an oasis of greenery in the middle of busy Bucharest, and
Symbol key
P Air conditioning T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled V Home delivery M Nearby metro station W Wifi 6 Animal friendly N Credit cards not accepted L Guarded parking E Live music G Non-smoking S Take away
The Garden B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott
French Bakery Le Restaurant C-5, Str. Nicolae
44
Restaurants
Price Guide
(Based on a good meal with wine) Expensive (More than 30 per person) Middling (10-20 per person) Not cheap (20-30 per person) Cheap (Less than 10 per person)
Restaurants
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Karishma D-5, Str. Iancu Capitanu 36, tel. (+4) 021 252 51 57, office@karishma.ro, www.karishma.ro. This place, by warrant of its bits and pieces layout, is perhaps the closest thing you will find to a classic British/Indian curry house in Bucharest. No less than three Indian chefs cook up the treats out back, with the lamb rogan josh - ordered extra hot - never failing to hit the spot. In fact, we counted no fewer than 10 lamb dishes on the menu, a rare treat in these parts where the raw material is so hard to find. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. . PVEBSW
International
Balkan Bistro C-5, Calea Victoriei 56 (Grand Hotel Continental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372 01 03 00, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. Very interesting indeed. A restaurant brave enough to admit that food in this part of the world is truly Balkan, and that the edges between Serbian, Turkish, Greek, Romanian and Bulgarian food can sometimes be very blurred indeed. You will find a rich range of dishes on offer: all presented on the menu in their original language. See you there. Q Open 12:30-15:30, 18:30-22:30. . PLGW
German
0737 50 01 50, www.beraria-bragadiru.ro. This legendary beer hall looks better than ever. With German food as good as anywhere in the city (the potato and sausage soup is a winner, as is the ciolan) alongside a live Bavarian oompah band every night it is the perfect place for big groups looking for a raucous night out. Our only complaint would be that there seemed to be no German beer on draught. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PEBSW
Beraria Bragadiru B-7, Calea Rahovei 157, tel. (+4)
Die Deutsche Kneipe C-3, Str. Stockholm 9, tel. (+4) 021 233 94 62/(+4) 0722 28 45 60, office@diedeutschekneipe.ro, www.diedeutschekneipe.ro. Really, one of our favourite places in Bucharest, now as ever (and it has been around for more than 15 years). Serving giant portions of great German sausages (all made on the premises) as well as pork knuckles, kraut and the like, they keep the prices down and their punters very happy. You usually need a reservation at weekends. Good place for a simple pint of German beer too. QOpen 15:00 - 23:30, Sat 14:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. . PNSW
Barbizon Steak House A-1, P-ta Montreal 10 (Pullman Bucharest World Trade Center), tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00, www.pullmanhotels.com. Found at the Pullman, this is probably the best eatery weve been to so far at this particular top-notch hotel. As you would expect, steaks top the bill, and what steaks! All the beef is shipped in fresh from South America, and though prices reflect the quality you will not argue at the end of the evening. Good wine list (we like the inclusion of Moldovan wines) and an open kitchen is always welcome. Great steak-based Saturday brunch: La Boucherie. Q Open 12:00 - 15:30, 18:00 - 23:30. Saturday Brunch 11:30-15:30, 190 lei/pers, 90 lei children. Kids under 10 free. . PLW
224 10 04/(+4) 0745 00 36 60, barka.saffron@gmail. com. We have been coming here since the last century, when there was precious little choice in Bucharest for people wanting something a little different; a little more spicy. Now there is plenty of choice but we still trot up to Barka whenever we can. On our last visit we went for the lamb with spinach in tomato sauce which was as good as we had hoped. The onion bhajis remain Bucharests best. First class cocktail list, and regular live music and arty events. Also of note is that the owner has his own buffalo farm in Transylvania, and sells fantastic buffalo telemea cheese here at the restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PSW
less every day: check the blackboard for todays specials. You can also buy homemade jams, pickles and the like. Terrific. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. . PSW
Be Nat A-4, B-dul Nicolae Titulescu 4-8, MPiata Victoriei,

tel. (+4) 031 437 96 03, www.benat.ro. Light and spacious diner overlooking Piata Victoriei serving excellent value hot lunches, salads, tea, coffee and cakes. Look out for the daily specials, while - if they have it - the gazpacho is as good as any in the city. Sit upstairs for the best views of the street below. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. . PVGBSW
dishes you are likely to find in a Bucharest restaurant. Both the steak with gorgonzola and the beef stroganoff are top efforts, while we have long thought that the goulash is one of Bucharests very best. Good drinks list and the place itself is rather nice. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. . PLBW
Concerto Restaurant C-5, Calea Victoriei 56 (Grand
Barka Saffron A-2, Str. Av. Sntescu 1, tel. (+4) 021
MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 211 46 98/(+4) 0731 27 38 20. One of those places that merits praise simply for having been around for so long. Weve been coming here for years, and have always loved the welcoming atmosphere and simple, tasty bistro food. There is something for everyone, from sandwiches for the lunchtime crowd to good coffee and even hot chocolate for the kids. Leafy terrace in summer. Q Open 08:00 - 02:00. . PBSW
Bistro Mon Cher B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 20-28,
Hotel Continental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372 01 03 00, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. Oh yes. The fine dining stakes in Bucharest got notched up even further with the appearance of the Grand Continentals showcase dining room, a match for any other in the city. This is the place to come for highly creative nouvelle cuisine, accompanied by a long list of the worlds finest wines (from Romania, France, Italy, Spain, South Africa, North and South America). The setting is to die for, and the staff are knowledgeable about both food and wine and will talk you through everything on the menu.QOpen 12.00 - 23.00. . PLGW
Bistro Mon Cheri C-3, Str. Tudor Stefan 16, tel. (+4)
Indian
90/(+4) 0721 72 16 40, www.haveli.ro. Convincingly authentic Indian cuisine served in a brightly decorated villa, where the sauces are by nature toned down for locals but where chef will - with pleasure - spice things up for the more experienced diner. We like the long list of vegetarian dishes, of which the Bhangan Bharta (aubergine with tomato and onion) is a particular favourite. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 19:00 - 23:00. . PLVBSW
Haveli D-4, Str. Episcop Radu 3, tel. (+4) 021 211 03
Becas Kitchen C-4, Str. Mihai Eminescu 80, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 0722 30 89 60, www.becaskitchen. ro. Following much the same path as that trodden by Violetas Vintage Kitchen, this restaurant is a magnificent place serving wonderful, home-cooked food. The place itself is gorgeously simple in its decor, at once homely and welcoming. The food is fantastic, with the menu changing more or
021 231 09 08, www.bistromoncheri.ro. Good little eatery on a side street close to Piata Dorobanti. Good Romanian food served in decent portions at fair prices. The ciolan afumat is always cooked to perfection, and there are always plenty of tasty ciorbas available too. Also usually has a number of seasonal specials. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. . PLSW
Dacia Felix B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotelbucharest. The Radisson Blu opens its the cracking breakfast (possibly the best in the city) to all comers: simply turn up before 10:30, pay your money and fill up for the day. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00. . PLEGSW Doncafe Brasserie B-3, Str. Ankara 7, tel. (+4) 0746 22 24 44, www.doncafe-brasserie.ro. Open early for breakfast (they do a decent English fry and delicious pain chocolat) its busy throughout the day, catering to lunching ladies and business types as well as a trendy crowd in the evenings. Great salads, a good range of homemade pasta (and we mean homemade: it is put together on the premises), a terrific osso bucco and a divine cheese cake are our fave dishes from the menu. You go pick your own. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00. . PLSW August - September 2013
Chez Marie C-4, Str. Dionisie Lupu 48, MPiata Romana,
tel. (+4) 031 107 20 33, www.chezmarie.ro. Popular with the crowd from the UK embassy, including the ambassador himself, Chez Marie serves perhaps the widest variety of
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Restaurants
Restaurants
47
56 93, www.restaurantgargantua.ro. Bright and airy place that gloriously lets the light in through its huge windows. Fine food, including a luscious fried brie with onion marmelade, an outstanding chicken and artichoke salad, a couple of duck dishes and good steaks. Prices are more than fair given the location, setting and quality of food. Find it on the corner of Stradas Calderon and Verona. QOpen 08:30 - 01:00. . PLVBSW
Gargantua C-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 69, tel. (+4) 0726 55
if there isnt, the food is enough to keep you here for most of the evening. The lamb chops we ate were terrific: pink and tender, and they went down well with a plate of fresh spinach. Great atmosphere, good people, a decent choice for dinner. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. . PEBSW
Kopels A-7, Str. Sirenelor 87, tel. (+4) 0740 89 09 61. One of those places that we often think we should keep to ourselves and not put in the guide. Set in a small house on a street that amazingly survived the Centru Civic bulldozers, this is a restaurant that is quite simply a labour of love for all involved. The food is inventive, mainly seasonal and the chef is never afraid to try something new. The cheesecake is something of a Bucharest legend. Kids are welcome, many of the customers appear to be regulars, and the atmosphere is one of the most relaxed in the city. Top food usually comes with an attitude: not here it doesnt. QOpen 12:30 - 22:00. . PLVBSW La Brasserie A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.laveranda.ro. Redesigned and reinvented, La Brasserie is now less about fine dining (pop over to The Vineyard for that) and more about good quality, simple food for all the family. The menu is available buffet-style or a-la-carte, and makes a great choice for families or groups on the run. The wine list remains a work of art and the atmosphere is now cosier than ever. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 16:30, 177 lei/pers, children between six and 12 years half price, children under six free. . PEGSW La Collonade (Casa Vernescu) B-4, Calea Victoriei
NEW
Omnivores Dilemma B-4, Calea Victoriei 214, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 212 56 66, www.omnivores.ro. Brilliant! Tiny place serving the best cooked lunch in central Bucharest. There are just a few dishes to choose from each day: ask the staff whats good, hand over a pittance and try and bag a seat at one of the tables (there are only three or four). You can take away if there is no space. The kind of place Bucharest needs loads more of. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. . PVGSW Paris Bucharest Brasserie A-1, P-ta Montreal 10 (Pullman Bucharest), tel. (+4) 021 202 16 34/(+4) 021 318 30 00, www.pullmanhotels.com. The Pullmans bright and airy brasserie is open for breakfast and lunch, and offers a huge buffet packed with more than you could possibly eat in one setting. Very good value. Q Open 06:00 - 10:00, Tue, Wed, Thu 06:00 - 10:00, 12-14:30, Sat, Sun 06:00 11:00. . PLGW Restaurant 1880 C-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 54, MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 0372 08 00 80, www.restaurant1880.ro. One of the best hotel-based restaurants in the city is this bright, smart place at the Capital Plaza. The interiors are amongst the most striking in Bucharest, and the food more than matches the surroundings. We adored the celery soup with scallops, while the seafood risotto was as good as any weve eaten in Romania. Well worth a trip. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PBSW Salt B-1, Sos. Nordului 1, tel. (+4) 0737 37 77 37/(+4) 021 233 77 70, www.saltrestaurant.ro. Imagine a kind of spacious, upmarket diner where great food is served in a relaxed atmosphere by friendly staff and you are on the way to Salt. Possibly the best thing to happen to Bucharests dining scene this year, this newly opened restaurant is quirky and fun. Serves everything from breakfast pancakes to (Bucharests best) waffles, with all sorts inbetween: gourmet burgers, Argentine steaks, pizza, pasta and big salads. Find it in leafy Herastrau, and note that it is not as expensive as you might think. Does an excellent set lunch menu from Monday-Friday, for just 24 lei. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. . PiLBSW Sofa Restaurant & Bistro Cafe C-2, B-dul Barbu
Vacarescu 241A, tel. (+4) 0756 10 05 00, www.gosofa. ro. Sensational contemporary restaurant which caters during the day to the movers and shakers in the nearby office buildings, while in the evening it becomes the eatery of choice for Bucharests foodie set. Everything on the menu, from the duck with foie gras to the saffron risotto with tempura prawns is fantastic, and worth every penny. Theres a cheaper but no less tasty bistro menu too. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00 (Restaurant. Closed Sundays until September 1). Open 08:00 - 24:00 (Bistro Cafe). . PLEBSW City Centre), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 308 85 30, www.novotel.com. T eatro is so-called because the Novotel stands on the former site of Bucharests National Theatre, the hotels main restaurant is open to all for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Good, inventive food (the menu changes regularly) served in bright, colourful surroundings, with a nice terrace when the weather allows. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 16:00, 190 lei/pers, free for children under 12. . PTULGW draw is the enclosed terrace which means you can eat al fresco even when its raining outside. The food is good, a mix of Italian-esque and modern European dishes, which share a menu with an excellent wine list. Prices not cheap but value for money very high. Make sure you reserve well in advance or turn up with a local celebrity if you want a table on the terrace. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. . PBSW
Teatro B-4, Calea Victoriei 37B (Novotel Bucharest
Italian
Caffe Citta B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu),
tel. (+4) 021 601 34 36/(+4) 021 311 90 00, www. caffe-citta.ro. Styled as a Northern Italian city centre cafe/ bistro the emphasis here is on good, simple, urban food. Try the risotto with saffron, the saltim bocca and the tiramisu: all signature dishes and all done to perfection. The drinks menu is a bit special: go for the apple mojito (as delicious as it sounds) or try any number of great wines, all available by the glass. Keep the kids happy with the freshly made ice cream. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. . PLGBW 021 233 06 35/(+4) 0722 22 47 99, www.restaurantcapricciosa.ro. A bustling Italian restaurant and pizzeria whose menu is a veritable dictionary of pizza. They even do truffles and, lets face it, you dont see those every day on a menu in Bucharest. Well worth making the journey uptown for both the food and the atmosphere, which demonstrates that top restaurants dont have to be fitze. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed until August 25. . PLBSW
133, tel. (+4) 0733 24 20 67, www.casavernescu.com. One of two new restaurants at the recently renovated and reopened Casa Vernescu, one of Bucharests most historic buildings. Built in 1820 it carries the name of a politician, Gheorghe Vernescu, who bought it from the state in 1886, and had it extensively remodelled over a two-year period from 1887-9. It was at this time that the majority of the stunning interior frescoes were added. Fortunately, the food more than lives up to the surroundings. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PLESW
The Vinyard A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.crowneplaza.ro. The feather in the Crowne Plazas cap, this is now the hotels flagship restaurant, a work of great detail where everything is lovingly prepared by exec chef Ashlie Dias - who has been here for years - and his highly experienced team. Based around Mediterranean cuisine you can always expect to find something exotic and a bit different on the daring menu, and a number of the dishes require waiter or audience - thats you, diner - participation. An indulgent treat. QOpen 18:00 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. . PEW Uptown Bar & Grill B-3, Str. Rabat 2, tel. (+4) 021 231 40 77, office@uptown.ro, www.uptown.ro. Uptown indeed. In the wealthiest part of the wealthiest part of the city, the citys wealthiest people come here to eat. The real bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Capricciosa B-dul Ion Ionescu de la Brad 2, tel. (+4)
Le Theatre B-5, Str. George Enescu 2-4, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 318 28 74, www.letheatre.ro. A bit of food with your jazz? Or a bit of jazz with your food? There is always usually something happening at Le Theatre, and even Bucharest In Your Pocket
Casa di David B-1, Sos. Nordului 7-9, tel. (+4) 021 232 47 15, www.casadidavid.ro. You can say what you like about this legendary, high-class place (and most people in Bucharest have some kind of opinion), but to us it remains August - September 2013
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ings, but the same warm, friendly service and great value (if pricier) food youve come to expect from the Il Calcio boys. This first Il Calcio restaurant is in a lovely house on Strada Clucerului, quickly becoming something of a magnet for great places to eat. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PLBSW ton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77. A fabulous place. Boasting an open kitchen, three distinct dining areas and a private dining room, Robertos also now has a new chef: Marco Magri. The food is classical, with the menu boasting the best dishes from a number of Italian regions. Its not cheap, but prices reflect the high quality, and note that the lunchtime set menu is in fact very competitively priced. In a nutshell, its worth every penny: this is one of the top five restaurants in the land. Robertos is also the home of the Hiltons not-to-be-missed Lazy Sunday Afternoon. Q Open 06:30 - 10:00, 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 24:00. Lazy Sunday Afternoon from 12:00-16:00, 155 lei/ pers. . PTGSW
Robertos C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hil-
in the city. As with the original Il Calcio, service can be a bit hit and miss but the good - if not outstanding - Italian food at fantastic prices makes this a good default choice for dinner. Stick to the pizzas, salads, have a little patience and you will love the place. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. Also at (C-4) Str. Mendeleev 14, (+4) 0722 13 42 99; (I-4) Str. Delea Veche 36, tel. (+4) 0726 01 03 83; (C-3) Calea Floreasca 118-120, tel. (+4) 0728 63 99 06, Soseaua Nordului 7-9, tel. (+4) 0724 70 66 65. . PLBSW
Japanese
Benihana B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard Johnson Grand Plaza), MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 30, www.hojoplaza.ro/en/benihana. With new menus put together for the season, this is a great time to come and try the vast array of terrific Japanese specialities on offer at Benihana. A staple on the Bucharest dining scene for some years now, it is a tremendous mix of the new, the daring and the traditional. Expert chefs and staff will explain Japanese cuisine to newcomers, and the chances are you will want to come more than once.Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 22:30. . PTULSW Sushi Ko B-1, Sos. Nordului 1, tel. (+4) 0736 88 86 88, www.sushiko.ro. The food is fantastic, and the extensive menu covers every area of Japanese cuisine, from sushi to sashimi. The vibe is casual, the set menus are great value, and staff are friendly and helpful, taking time out to explain the finer points of Japanese dining to beginners. All three locations are well worth a visit (one is in the Old Town) and if you cant get there in person, theres home delivery too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also at (C-6) Str. Stavropoleos 8, tel. (+4) 0758 08 84 00, open 12:00 - 24:00 and Sos. Bucuresti-Ploiesti 42D (Baneasa Shopping City, ground floor), tel. (+4) 0744 34 44 44, open 12:00 - 22:30. . PSW
a very nice place to spend the evening, especially at this time of year when you can sit outside away from the television screens. The food is ristorante Italian with a twist (the duck breast with citrus fruits is our pick of the current menu) and outstandingly good, with enough fish dishes to make it appealing to sea food lovers. Staff are good and the wine list a cracker. QOpen 12:30 - 23:30. . PLESW
food, fish and even Argentinean steaks. On the drink front there is a sound selection of wine and plenty of bubbly. We would also point out that there is a super little tea room at the hotel too, which is well worth a look. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00. . PVBSW nental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0730 64 48 06. Boasting top chef Alfonso Salvaggio in the kitchen, there is a new menu and the Italian stakes continue to get ratcheted up another notch, all to the benefit of us diners. All the pasta here is made fresh, the meat is the finest Argentine and Scottish beef or New Zealand lamb, and the wine is a selection of the best the world has to offer. Modigliani is also now home of the InterContinentals brunch, Brunchissimo, a very Italian and Mediterranean take on the brunch concept. Expect all the usual brunch treats, including the kids corner and live music. 07:00 - 23:00 QOpen 18:00 24:00. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 175 lei/pers, children under six free, children between six and 12 half price. Closed Sunday evening. Closed during August. . PLBW
Modigliani Pasta/Carne C-5, Str. Batistei 9 (InterConti-
Cucina B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 02, www. cucinarestaurant.ro. Bright and breezy, Cucina at the JW Marriott is a wonderful Italian restaurant where you can find probably the best (and perhaps only) butterfish steak in the city. All of the other fine Italian dishes are equally memorable, and note that all of the pasta is homemade on the premises No fewer than 26 good Italian reds grace the wine menu. Q Open 12:30 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. . PLESW
81 87/(+4) 021 231 23 86, www.grano.ro. An Italian the likes of which many of the other so-called Italian restaurants in Bucharest can only dream of becoming. Serving simple yet delicious food - such as the saffron risotto - that will have you telling all your friends to come here, you can also buy many of the special ingredients they use in their little shop. Oh, and did we mention the chocolate cake? QOpen 09.30 - 22.00, Sun 09.30 - 18.00. . PLESW
Trattoria Don Vito Ristorante C-4, Str. Mendeleev 1, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0735 33 30 21, www.trattoriadonvito.ro. They get a lot right here, not least the bean soup that is a meal in itself. Excellent salads, and the seafood-packed signature Don Vito pasta was memorable. There is pizza too, the sweets are delicious and the place itself is decked out well without ever overdoing it. Well worth a look. Note that downstairs is a totally non-smoking section. Commendable. QOpen 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PBSW Trattoria Il Calcio C-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin 1-3, tel. (+4) 0732 52 81 40, www.trattoriailcalcio.ro. What we have here is the best use of perhaps the best terrace space
Grano C-3, Str. Putul lui Zamfir 40, tel. (+4) 0731 14
Marshal Garden Terrace C-4, Calea Dorobantilor 50B,
NEW
Nonna Mia C-3, Str. Chile 10, tel. (+4) 0728 60 22 83/(+4) 021 231 22 83, www.nonnamia.ro. Looks the part, feels the part and - when the food arrives - you will know that it tastes the part too. Very good Italian food, from treats such as rabbit in a glorious wine sauce to fresh pasta made right here on the premises, as well as choice cuts of top imported salamis and cheese. Good range of wines at all prices, and the service is a cut above the Bucharest norm. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PESW Ristorante Il Calcio A-3, Str. Clucerului 7, tel. (+4) 0729 57 48 02, www.trattoriailcalcio.ro. As opposed to T rattoria Il Calcio? Yes. For this is a ristorante, a notch up from trattoria. Expect a more refined menu and surroundbucharest.inyourpocket.com bucharest.inyourpocket.com August - September 2013
tel. (+4) 0758 24 11 25, www.hotelmarshalgarden.ro. Wow. On the top floor (the seventh) of the Marshal Garden hotel this place offers great food with a great view. The food is outstandingly good, with plenty of fresh salads, pasta, sea
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food, the freshest seasonal ingredients and supremely healthy eating. You can feast on a great range of dishes from across the region, there are some fine wines and its all done with that magical Radisson swish. We love it. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PLG 83 46, www.studio-80.ro. For something a bit different in a location well away from the bustle of the city centre it is worth trying the fare on offer here at Studio 80. A good range of food on offer, from good meats to fish and sea food, and all done with a genuine Mediterranean twist. Top wine list and prices are certainly reasonable. Worth the trip. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. . PLVBSW
Restaurants
51
Studio 80 Aleea Privighetorilor 80, tel. (+4) 0749 78
Mexican/Tex Mex
97 95 21, www.restaurantyoshi.ro. Sushi and teppanyaki - and more besides - at the best new Japanese restaurant to open in Bucharest for some time. Located in upmarket Dorobanti it is not cheap (good Japanese food rarely is) but it is very good and the set-menu at lunchtime is excellent value. The place itself is spacious and very contemporary, and the perfect setting for a meal of this quality. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. . VBS
Yoshi C-3, Str. Banul Antonache 40-44, tel. (+4) 0749
NEW
round one, just like King Arthur - and tuck into massive portions of all your medieval favourites, from pork knuckles to home-made sausages and juicy steaks. There is live music most nights from a top taraf band, and its very difficult not to have a good time here. Groups especially will love it, and your kids will too. Q Open 24hrs. . PVESW
El Torito C-4, Str. Iancu Capitanu 30, tel. (+4) 021
Mediterranean
59 98 05, www.restaurantcerisiers.ro. We attended a Christening at this place recently, and were blown away by the quality of the food: really outstanding. The seafood and fish dishes are the best of whats on the menu, but there is more than that to enjoy: try the cracking salads or the beef carpaccio. As for the rooftop terrace, there is no more romantic place to eat in the city. In the right weather of course. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLBSW 37, www.restaurantoliviers.ro. Can a hotel restaurant be this good? Yes. The ambitious owners of the Residence hotel are very keen to promote their excellent restaurant, and with good reason. A small but perfectly formed dining room is the setting for a tantalising menu of Oriental, Mediterranean and local dishes. The red tuna steak with capers is a treat. The gourmet menu (for two) is outstanding. QOpen 12:00 23:30. . PLW Blu), tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00. Sharkia blows in to the Radisson like the eponymous wind and brings with it some top class dining at the hotels latest restaurant. What we have here is a place where the focus is on Eastern Mediterranean
Cerisiers A-2, Str. Al. Constantinescu 33, tel. (+4) 0722
Lebanese
Chez Toni C-2, Str. Glodeni 3, tel. (+4) 021 242 02 04/
(+4) 0740 00 78 78, www.cheztoni.ro. Terrific Lebanese food in the leafy, away-from-it-all setting of the Pescariu T ennis and Sports Club. All your Middle Eastern favourites are here, from Antaki, Adana and Beiti kebabs to sujuk (those tangy, spicy little sausages) and simple yet perfectly grilled sea bass (and a ton of other fresh fish). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PLBSW
252 66 88/(+4) 0728 17 60 59, eltorito@eltorito.ro, www.eltorito.ro. Tex-Mex as it should be: spicy, tasty but free of frills. Expect the biggest and best burrittos in the city, topped with lashings of tangy cheese; sizzlingly hot fajitas, no fewer than eight types of taco and - best of all - that splendid Mexican staple so often forgotten or passed over as being dull: cream of corn soup. The super nachos are worth trying too: filled with ground beef the portion is big enough to serve as a main course. In fact, beware: all the portions here are supersized. Though you would be a fool to forego a nosh here, if you just fancy a drink at the bar nobody seems to mind. Let the margaritas and the mojitos flow. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PVEBSW
Modern European
Cafe Athenee C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace
Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest. com. We love it. This is Bucharests village pub, where the city comes to meet and have a terrific breakfast, lunch or early dinner. The new breakfast menu offers something for everyone, from a full English to nasi goreng, while the legendary Hilton burger remains one of the best in the city. There is also a bites menu of substantial finger food for executive snacking, and a bigger, wider range of beers, wines and cocktails then ever, which is why it is now as popular as an after-work venue as it is at lunchtime. Q Open 08:00-20:00. . PESW next to the Harp on the southern side of Piata Unirii. During the summer it has a terrace. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. . PSW
Oliviers A-3, Str. Clucerului 19, tel. (+4) 0733 10 91
222 57 55, www.piccolomondo.ro. Lebanese food that is both filling (with plenty for vegetarians to choose from) and well made. Kebabs are one of the chefs strong points, and are very tasty indeed. After your meal you can enjoy a smoke on a hookah pipe. Always packed so reserve a table. QOpen 10:30 - 24:30. . PLVBSW
Piccolo Mondo A-3, Str. Clucerului 9, tel. (+4) 021
Pizza Hut C-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 15-19, MUniver-
Medieval
Crama Templierilor B-5, B-dul Mihail Kogalniceanu 3,
tel. (+4) 021 367 17 01. A medieval extravanganza of a restaurant where you can sit at wooden tables - including a
Sharkia Terrace B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson
Prime Steaks & Seafood B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81
(Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00, www.primerestaurant.ro. Boasting a menu put together by Executive Chef Bernd Kirsch, who has been in charge of the kitchen here since Prime opened more than four years ago, what is perhaps Bucharests best restaurant recently got better. Now serving the finest fillet steak in the world (the Irish Hereford Prime - which we can tell you, as we have eaten it, is amazing), we can also recommend the duet of foie gras with raspberry mousse and caremelized pineapple, the grilled scallops and the lobster bisque. (And just about everything else). Its genuinely amazing this place, and worth every last penny. Q Open 12:30-15.00, 18.00-23.00, Sat 18:00-23:00. Closed Sun. Closed August. . PLG
sitate, tel. (+4) 021 314 50 32, www.pizzahut.ro. Popular at all hours of the day, the American-style pizza here is just as you would find anywhere in the world. With its non-smoking section and child-friendly staff and atmosphere, Pizza Hut is a great place to bring kids. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Also at (I-3) Calea Mosilor 219, tel. (+4) 021 210 60 33; (C-2) Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard Johnson Grand Plaza) tel. (+4) 021 201 17 55 and many other locations around the city. . PBSW
Romanian
Romanian food is really quite good. We have a wide selection of Bucharests best Romanian restaurants right here. 650 50 00, office@bistrojaristea.ro, www.bistrojaristea. ro. From the people who have long brought you some of the citys finest Romanian food comes this place, a contemporary eatery for friends. Duck breast with sweet cabbage, smoked fish and potato salad, baked carp with garlic and mamaliga are just a few of the great dishes you will find on the menu. Add in a bright, breezy setting, good service, visinata by the glass and you have a terrific new place to eat and spend most of the evening. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PVEBSW
Bistro Jaristea B-4, Str. Henri Coanda 5, tel. (+4) 021
Pizzerias
Horoscop C-7, B-dul Dimitrie Cantemir 2, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 021 335 72 65, www.restauranthoroscop.ro. One of the original Bucharest pizza parlours, this place has been around since before we began publishing Bucharest In Your Pocket; thats a long time. Still serving thin, crispy pizzas, alongside the best calzone in Bucharest, it is a winner worth seeking out. Find it in the same place as the Horoscop hotel,
Bistro La Taifas B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 16, tel. (+4) 021 212 77 88, www.bistrotaifas.ro. La T aifas means having a chat and thats exactly what you and your friends will feel like doing at this tres jolie venue. We remain convinced that the original venue behind the Hilton on Str. Episcopiei was August - September 2013
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better, but this latest location is more spacious, and hosts more regular musical soirees. The food is great, and booking is still essential, especially if you want to sit on the terrace in good weather. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. . PLEBSW versitate, tel. (+4) 021 211 89 29, www.restaurantvanatoresc.ro. The smell of the wooden fixtures and fittings could convince you that youre in the countryside, not metres away from the city centre. Portions are good, the food tastes super (good smoked meats, such as the smoked sausage and white beans, and lovely fresh sarmale) and all have a personal touch to their taste. Prices are more than reasonable. The live, loud folk band add to the party atmosphere. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. . PLEBSW 17, restaurant@casadoina.ro, www.casadoina.ro. Alma mater of Romanian restaurants, an integral part of the citys rich tapestry. This classy place pulls in the cream of Bucharest society, served by charming, splendid waiters in smart dress. The food is superb, and in a city where standards rise only to fall so often, Casa Doina can be considered a paragon of consistency. Boasts a large, gorgeous leafy terrace. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. . PLEBSW
Try the papanasi (donuts) with thick cream here: almost a meal in itself and perfect for fuelling up before exploring Old Town. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. . PJEBSW Blcescu 4 (Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20. Breakfast, lunch (often a very good value buffet) or dinner on the boulevard; Bulevardul Magheru, that is. If this place doesnt occupy the very best people-watching spot in the whole of the city, then we dont know where does. There is a new menu for the season, and the prices are as reasonable as ever for what is a seriously good restaurant. It is perfect for working lunches: we know from experience. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 06:30 - 11:30, 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 11:00. 12:00 23:00. . PTLEBW dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii, tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16, www.restauranttimes.ro. A very good restaurant indeed. Featuring a very good range of Romanian and international dishes, the menu here changes regularly, usually in time with the seasons. The young chef is not afraid to try something new and different and note that if you fancy something which is not on the menu, dont be afraid to ask. Good local wine list. Note the last kitchen order is at 22:30. QOpen 12:00 23:00. . PLGSW
Burebista Vanatoresc C-5, Str. Batistei 14, MUni-
Corso Brasserie & Terrace C-5, B-dul Nicolae
Casa Doina B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 4, tel. (+4) 021 222 67
Good Old Times (Golden Tulip Times Hotel) E-6, B-
Lupescu, mistress of King Carol II. Huge, set over two levels, the house is surrounded by a large courtyard and garden, which is superb in the right weather. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. . PBSW
experience, and all at peanuts prices. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . PLBSW
Hanu Berarilor Casa Soare B-6, Str. Poenaru Bordea
Casa Gorjana B-5, Str. Domnita Anastasia 13, MUni-
versitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 64 29, (+4) 0722 20 66 77, www.casagorjana.ro. One of the stock Romanian restaurants that has been packing in visitors for years, there is little gimmick here (beyond the rather wooden entrance) except good food at great prices. Indeed, if there is almost one thing you can be sure with when it comes to standard Romanian restaurants, it is that you will never have to pay much money.
Hanu Berarilor Casa Elena Lupescu D-5, Str. Pache Protopopescu 51, tel. (+4) 0725 00 80 05, www.citygrill.ro/home-hanu-berarilor. Offering much the same (such as great pork knuckle) as the Hanul Berarilor closer to the city centre this place (run by the same people) is located in a house that was once the property of Elena
2, tel. (+4) 021 336 80 09, www.hanuberarilor.ro. Housed in the former Casa Bucur (a place you could write a book about) it is a very good Romanian restaurant serving the kind of food you only usually get in peoples homes. Seriously: only in two or three other places in Bucharest will you find carnati de oaie (mutton sausages) or bors de peste. If you are feeling really hungry go for the platou mioritic: a huge plate of meaty treats. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. . PJEBSW
Locanta Jaristea B-6, Str. George Georgescu 50-52, tel. (+4) 021 335 33 38, www.jaristea.ro. This is that rarity in Bucharest (and indeed Romania): an upmarket Romanian restaurant. The surroundings, location, exquisitely decorated dining rooms, service and choice of high quality food will convince you of that. This is one of very few places in Romania where you can enjoy an entire suckling pig (though note that you will need to phone ahead and ask them to start preparing it a day in advance) and sample some of the best vintage wines Romania has ever produced. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. . PLVESW Nicoresti C-5, Str. Maria Rosetti 40, tel. (+4) 021 211
24 80, www.restaurantnicoresti.ro. Maybe we have been harsh in the past with our reviews of Nicoresti. It is, after all, one of the most celebrated Romanian restaurants in the city, and given that the service - always our biggest problem with the place - has improved no end of late, we think it is about time we give it another chance. We suggest you do the same, for the food has always been very good. The ciolan de porc (pork knuckle) with beans is legendary: ask anyone in the city! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. . PS
La Ceaunu Crapat C-4, B-dul Dacia 19, tel. (+4) 0746
78 35 64/(+4) 0724 33 22 91, www.laceaunucrapat. ro. The place to come in Bucharest for big portions of superb Romanian food cooked with a bit more style than in the average Romanian restaurant. Sarmale la ceaun and zacusca de fasole were two of the dishes we ate and happily recommend. The desserts are not to be overlooked either, and there are good value lunch menus. Oh, and we should mention that it all gets served in superb ethnic pottery. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. . PLBSW 87 96, www.lacocosatu.ro. We put out an appeal on our Facebook fan page for the best mici in the city. The response was immediate and overwhelming: Cocosatu uber alles. A bit of a trek from the city centre (it is just around the corner from the old Baneasa Airport) the mici here are indeed the best we have tasted: big, tangy, made with loads of mutton and a few spices for extra kick. The ultimate Bucharest mici
La Cocosatu Str. Neagoe Voda 52 A, tel. (+4) 021 232
tel. (+4) 031 805 91 99, www.rossetya.ro. Rossetya is a restaurant which tries harder than most to take Romanian cuisine to new levels. As such, this is as upmarket as Romanian food can get, and the beef dishes here are especially good. Try the sote de vacuta aromat cu cognac: tender beef sauteed in cognac with mushrooms and tomatoes. Also worth trying is the iahnie de fasole: a Romanian bean stew that packs something of a kick and proof that Romanian does do vegetarian food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. Closed until August 17. . PSW
Rossetya C-5, Str. Dimitrie Bolintineanu 9, MUniversitate,
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Restaurants
Seafood
Fishbone Lunch & Pub C-4, Str. Gen. Ernest Brosteanu
2, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0721 98 28 48, www. fishbonegrill.ro. Another fish restaurant more than worth the name adds itself to the growing list of such establishments in Bucharest. Well prepared, fresh fish in bright, modern surroundings with a great selection of side dishes and plenty of cracking wine to wash it all down with. Good lunchtime deals and friendly, happy staff ready to make your time here memorable. Certainly one of our fave places to open this year. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . PBSW
La Veranda A-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel.
(+4) 021 224 00 34, bucharest@crowneplaza.ro, www. laveranda.ro. One of three new places opened recently at the Crowne Plaza. This one is housed inside a glass terrace offering wonderful views of the garden outside: a joy in any weather. It serves deceptively simple yet exquisite fish and sea food as fresh as the day it was caught, and the chef will happily cook to order. Q Open 06:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 11:30, 12:30 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00. . PLEW
Salonul Romanesc (Casa Vernescu) B-4, Calea
NEW
Mesogios C-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 49, tel. (+4) 021 313 49 51, (+4) 0727 23 92 39/(+4) 021 317 13 55, cezar@ mesogios.ro, www.mesogios.ro. A businessmans dream. While Mesogios certainly doesnt get any cheaper, the high standards here have ensured that it remains packed with happy punters. Getting on for a decade since it opened its dedication to seafood has not waned for one moment, and we never leave disappointed (and we come here as often as our wallet allows). Join us and enjoy squid, lobster, prawns of all sizes, mussels, oysters, giant sea bass and a host of other wet treats. QOpen 12:30 - 24:00. . PSW Osho Fish B-2, B-dul Primaverii 19-21, tel. (+4) 021 311 88 26/(+4) 021 311 88 69, office@osho-restaurant.ro, www.osho-restaurant.ro. Doing for Bucharests fish supper scene what Osho did for meat. Expect fine pieces of fresh fish and prime, fresh seafood cooked and prepared simply, with real class and with great care for the natural flavour of the fish. Prices reflect the high quality of the raw material, so charge it to expenses if you can, for this is a faultless establishment we have grown rather fond of. Get in there. QOpen 10:30 - 23:30, Sun 10:30 - 22:00. . PVEBSW Taverna Pescareasca La Zavat E-5, Str. Popa Nan 16, tel. (+4) 021 252 29 56/(+4) 0766 52 67 91, taverna. pescareasca@yahoo.com, www.taverna-lazavat.ro. Top little place with more atmosphere in its small toe than most other restaurants have in their entire bodies. Cracking menu of primarily fish and seafood, though there are local Romanian and international favourites too. An exemplary wine list (for all budgets) makes it a super place for vineyard fans: all of Romanias top wineries are represented. QOpen 12:00 24:00. . PSW
Victoriei 133, tel. (+4) 733 24 20 67, reservation@ casavernescu.com, www.casavernescu.com. Superior Romanian food at a superior Romanian venue: the magnificent Casa Lens-Vernescu, built in 1820 and considered one of the finest houses ever built in Bucharest. Like the location the food is excellent and perhaps not quite as expensive as you might think given that you are eating in a historical monument. Superb service and an outstanding wine list too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PLESW
Urbanesc D-5, Str. Stefan Luchian 17, tel. (+4) 021 313 77
16, www.urbanesc.ro. As fashionable as you like and already attracting a crowd of urban trendsetters, this restaurant/cafe/ kind-of-shop is a nice mix of the old and the new. The old is the house the place is set in, the new is the rather funky design of the interior. The set-lunch deal is great value at 25 lei (it changes every day and often features some rather sophisticated dishes, and always includes an out-of-the-ordinary soup, like potato and leek) while the a la carte menu is a more extravagant affair featuring top contemporary food. The shop sells funky gifts, while in the loft there is a space for events: book readings and the like. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. . VBS sitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 83 75/(+4) 0721 20 08 00, vatra@vatra.ro, www.vatra.ro. We have been eating here for years and we cant recommend the place highly enough. You really will have go a long way to find better value Romanian food than this. A brilliant, well-priced restaurant close to Old Town and very close to Cismigiu Park, expect big portions of tasty local dishes. Great ciorbas, terrific mici and a decent pint of beer to wash it all down with. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PLBSW
Slow Food
16 57 46/(+4) 0740 05 55 49, thekitchen2011@ yahoo.com, Piata Romana. Slow Food in every sense of the phrase: the food is seasonal, all prepared fresh, and made from locally-sourced ingredients. It also comes at a fair price: both to you and to the suppliers. The menu changes every day, but there is always a good choice for either lunch or dinner (soups, finger food and more substantial dishes), as well as some terrific desserts. Well worth a visit. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. . PVBSW
Vatra Restaurant B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 19, MUniver-
Metuka B-4, B-dul Lascar Catargiu 7, tel. (+4) 0734
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Restaurants
The Kitchen C-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin 9, tel. (+4) 0740 05 55 49. Slow food to take home is the slogan of this place, which pretty much says it all. You will find good, fresh food at decent prices, and as there are a couple of tables and a kitchen bar you do not even necessarily have to take it home. They serve excellent coffee too. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. . VGBSW Violetas Vintage Kitchen D-6, Str. George Ionescu-Gion 9, tel. (+4) 021 367 22 42, www.violetas.ro. The concept is great: very good traditional and modern Romanian food (the cook is not afraid to experiment) with more than a nod towards the vegetarian served off a menu that changes regularly. You can check the latest menu online (it is always up to date) and then decide if you fancy anything before setting off. Chances are you will spot plenty you like. The brunch from 11:00-16:00 on Saturdays is excellent value at 80 lei per person: kids under seven are free. The place itself (now in a new location) is lovely, the staff wonderful and as a whole it is just so un-Bucharest that you will want to squeeze it and hug it. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. . PGBSW
12:30 - 16:00, 18:30 - 23:30, Sat 06:30 - 11:00, 18:30 23:30. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 195 lei/pers, children between six and twelve half price, children under six free. . PLESW
Cafs
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Osho B-2, B-dul Primaverii 19-21, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 021 568 30 31, www.osho-restaurant.ro. Sometimes when writing a review, all you really want to write is this place is brilliant. This is a butchers shop and restaurant serving T-bone steaks you would scream for in the dark. There is more than steak on the menu though, such as a top burger (which comes in three sizes) and tangy lamb chops, and take note that all the meat is Romanian. Plus, theres a kids menu. We also have to admit to being pleasantly surprised about the prices: given the location (this is Beverly Hills, Bucharest) they are more than reasonable. Packed at lunchtime. QOpen 10:30 - 23:30, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. . PVBSW Vacamuuu C-3, Calea Floreasca 111, tel. (+4) 0731 35 11 35, www.vacamuuu.com. Currently the most talkedabout chophouse in the city. Serving a range of steaks so wide and so good that even the most jaded of beefeaters will be drooling, you can also feast on lamb, veal and pork chops, while the burgers are a match for anywhere else. There is a kids menu, and the weekend all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet is top value. Most of the meat can be bought to take home and cook yourself should you wish, and then theres the wine list: a surprise we will let you discover yourself when you come here. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. . PiTBSW Aristocats Bistro C-5, Str. Teodor Stefanescu 1, tel. (+4) 0758 90 05 82, www.aristocats.ro. Charming, in a word. Set in a gorgeous old Bucharest house its like a coffee shop and tea house and bistro and much more besides. Huge big omelettes for breakfast, soups at lunchtime, freshly made pasta for dinner: the menu changes all the time so just ask whats good the day you go. Oh, and they have muffins, wonderful muffins. Its also licensed so you can have a beer or cocktail, and given that its open from 08:00, we could easily see ourselves spending the whole day here. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PLEBSW Cafe Antipa by Artex A-3, B-dul Ion Mihalache 2, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0730 03 01 40. Bucharests best museum (well, a contender for that title, anyway) also has its full-on cafe, right inside the museum building. Currently attracts a cool, trendy crowd of young arty types and coffeebreak mums, you will love it and want to stay all day: it could just be the most peaceful, relaxing coffee fix destination in the land. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PLBSW Cafe Times E-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii, tel. (+4) 031 224 80 16, info@cafetimes.ro, www.cafetimes.ro. Free Wifi with your (excellent) coffee and a can-do attitude from the staff who appear to realise that sometimes people are busy, and need their coffee double quick. Not every cafe in Bucharest does realise that... Having said that, this is the kind of laid-back place that you end up spending the whole afternoon in, no matter how busy you are. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. PLESW Cafe Verona / Verona Garden C-5, Str. Pictor Arthur
Verona 13-15, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0732 00 30 60. Sublime. The brilliant Carturesti bookshop has long served coffee with its books, and now there is wine; and cocktails too. And if there is a better place to drink coffee this close to the centre of Bucharest than this place then we know not of it. For long lazy afternoons or laid-back evenings out on the terrace with friends it is great, while for brunch it makes a brilliant (and bargain) alternative to the big, expensive hotels. Always packed, a reservation is a good idea. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. BW
Spanish
Restaurant Nada Mas C-5, Str. Nicolae Golescu 16, MPiata Romana/Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 20 91, www.nadamas.ro. Nice. A bright, spacious and thoroughly modern eatery behind the Ateneu. For starters, take either the gazpacho (as good as it should be) or the mix of Spanish hams and sausages before moving on to the decent choice of seafood or meat main courses. We ate the very good oxtail - which we have not seen on a menu for years - as well as a portion of paella, which was richly packed with seafood. Then throw in some walnut tostados for dessert if you have room. At lunchtime there are very well-priced set menus. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. . PLEBSW
Thai
Kunnai Str. Copilului 6, tel. (+4) 0722 68 73 43/(+4)
0722 68 74 54, www.kunnai.ro. At last, place for those of us who have been craving something Thai since Moods closed a while ago now. This place is terrific, found on the ground floor of a new apartment block in a leafy northern part of Bucharest. The food is the real deal, of which the food will convince you immediately. We had the Pla Praew Waan fish stir-fry followed by the prawn Phad Thai: both were sensational and well worth the money (its good value if not exactly cheap). Get there now. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Last kitchen order 23:00. Closed until August 25. . PTLBSW
Caffe & Latte B-5, Str. Schitu Magureanu 35, tel. (+4) 031 415 85 51, www.caffe-latte.ro. We have been coming here for years and still love it. A cafe, bar and bistro serving superb coffee, tea, cocktails, cakes and panini, as well as some very good light meals: the salads are legendary. Opens early for breakfast (we recommend the omelettes) and the setting opposite Cismigiu is special. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30, Sat 08:30 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:30. PTBW Camera din Fata C-4, Str. Mendeleev 22, tel. (+4) 021 311 15 12, www.cameradinfata.ro. One of the best cafes to open in Bucharest for years. The name means Front room, and being here is in many ways just like being somebodys front room. Great coffee and tea served in great mugs from gorgeous tea pots at tables which fill up early as the world pops in for espresso on its way to work. Lovely. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Gradina OAR C-5, Str. Arthur Verona 19, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 650 20 20, www.gradina-oar.ro. A semi-secret hideaway of a garden serving coffee, tea, lemonade and cocktails to a wonderful crowd that simply wants to relax with good friends and listen to mellow music in gorgeous surroundings. A gem of a place that should be stuffed and preserved for all time. Alas the weather means it closes at the end of October until next year. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. NBSW Green Tea D-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 24, tel. (+4) 021 320 93 96/(+4) 0749 09 02 02, www.greentea.ro. Magnificent. We know that there have been tea houses in Bucharest before, but none were ever like this. A gorgeous villa whose many rooms have all been lovingly decorated in a different theme (one is like your favourite Grans front room, another is like a country house) the list of teas available is as long as your arm. Some are very exotic indeed. And yes, besides taking tea here, you can buy just about all of the teas in the shop. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PGSW Kafeterya Cafe B-5, Str. Schitu Magureanu 8, MIzvor,
tel. (+4) 0726 22 25 67, contact@kafeterya.ro, www. kafeterya.ro. We know people who come here so often, and spend so much time here, that they should probably be paying rent! It is that kind of place: a friendly, local cafe serving top
Steak Houses
JW Steakhouse Bucharest B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie
90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), MIzvor/Eroilor, tel. (+4) 021 403 19 03, www.jwsteakhouse.ro. The JW Marriott hosts one of Bucharests best chophouses: the JW Steakhouse, only the second such signature venue to open in Europe. You can expect a very American steakhouse experience, right down to the Black Angus beef imported from the US. The Tomahawk steak - weighing in at nearly a kilo - is the pick of the steaks, but there is much more besides, including broiled lobster and Australian lamb chops. There is a great selection of new world wines, and they open early for breakfast: the American pancakes and eggs Benedict are a great option to start the day with. Q Open 06:30 - 11:00,
Turkish
Golden Falcon C-5, Str. Hristo Botev 18-20, tel. (+4)
021 314 28 25, www.goldenfalcon.ro. Still the greatest kebab house in the land, and still packing in the punters who come back time and again. There are no menus here: instead the waitresses will parade a trolley-full of meze before you to pick from, before coming round with the kebabs: pick which one you want then send it to be cooked in the open kitchen. We usually always go for the lamb kebabs, but in our experience all of them are well worth trying. Great desserts too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PLS
Vegetarian
Casa Satya A-3, B-dul Banu Manta 25, tel. (+4) 0736 39 25 87, office@satya.ro, www.satya.ro. Where do you start when reviewing a place as revolutionary as this? The concept is Ayurveda, as in the mix life and science. Ayuvedic principles have long been applied to alternative medicine, now it is developing into cuisine, and that is what we have here. Everything on the menu is toxin free, so no meat, but there is plenty of seafood, and everything is made with only fresh, organic ingredients. Amazingly, that does not mean forgoing taste: the delicious chutneys served with the poppadoms will convince you of that right from the off. The toilets by the way are amazing. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PVGBSW bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Urban Contemporary
Restaurant Madame Pogany C-3, Str. Banu Antonache 40-44, tel. (+4) 0744 10 56 13, www.madamepogany.ro. Fine, upmarket yet casual restaurant of the new school in Floreasca/Dorobanti. The spacious, modern, well-lit dining room gives you a real sense of grandeur without ever becoming kitsch: a trick few have managed to pull off in Bucharest. There is little point telling you about the food as the menu changes almost daily: what we can say is that whatever you order you are likely to be happy with it. This is a great restaurant. QOpen 09:00 - 24:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 02:00. . PLBSW Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com
58
CAFs
coffee, cocktails, light meals, salads and desserts to die for (the waffles are probably the best in Bucharest). Its packed with comfy sofas and armchairs, and we can guarantee that one visit will not be enough. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. PLEBSW Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00/(+4) 021 202 16 33, www.pullmanhotels.com. Classy cafe and patisserie at the Pullman, a popular choice with guests and office workers from the World T rade Center. The range of pastries is just about second to none in Bucharest, while the coffees are great value for what is after all a five-star hotel. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. PBSW
CAFs
Vice Advice
Wth more brothels, massage parlours and sex shops per square inch than most places in Eastern Europe, you could be forgiven for thinking Bucharest was the sex capital of the continent. You could also be forgiven for thinking that prostitution was legal: we can assure you of the fact that it certainly isnt, despite any and all appearances. This being Romania however, the law is more a minor obstacle to be overcome than a serious impediment, so you can indeed get away with sin, sin and more sin anytime you like, though discretion remains essential. If you are looking for sins of the flesh, you basically have three options: one legal, one not exactly legal but not exactly illegal either, and one completely illegal. The legal option (and the only option we recommend) is erotic massage at a reputable massage parlour. You will almost certainly not be offered any sexual encounters at these places, but there is still much fun to be had, from simple hand assistance to full body massage from one, two or even three nubile young ladies. Prices start at around 50 though climb higher at the more central, luxurious establishments. The second (and not-always-above-board) option is to simply head for a brothel (surely erotic nightclub? Ed). These establishments advertise themselves in seedy publications as legitimate strip clubs, but act mainly as fronts for whorehouses, usually run by very dodgy, and often quite dangerous businessmen. After sitting yourself down at a table you will be served expensive drinks, before being joined by some very bored and not always attractive young ladies (most of Romanias best-looking prostitutes are allegedly plying their trade in Germany and the Czech Republic). These girls sometimes lap dance for you, and always try to convince you to buy them cocktails (in fact orange juice with an umbrella, usually costing about 15). After half an hour of bored conversation you will be asked if you would like to retreat to a more intimate location, usually a room above, or even in, the night club itself. For an hour of whatever it is you fancy expect to pay a minimum of 100, as well as the obligatory bottle of sparkling wine, which usually costs at least another 50. All this on top of the tab you have already run up of course. But be careful. Not all of these night clubs are worth your time. Indeed, some can allegedly cause you physical harm. A recent Romanian newspaper report claimed that a group of American soldiers were recently beaten up in one such establishment (apparently on Str. Ion Campineanu, opposite the Novotel ) after refusing to pay a bill of 3,000. Approach all night clubs with caution: check the adult entertainment section of our website: bucharest. inyourpocket.com for a list of those we can vouch for. The third (and entirely illegal) option is to call one of the escorts who advertise in many of the poor quality city guides found around town. These escorts are usually unattractive prostitutes who charge 150 upwards for sex. Bait and switch operations (you order an 18 year-old with large breasts and you get a 48 year-old with large everything) are commonplace, and you should really think twice before calling them.
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La Galette A-1, P-ta Montreal 10 (Pullman Bucharest
Music Rooms Cafe D-4, B-dul Dacia 32, MPiata Ro-
mana, tel. (+4) 0726 53 73 78. Three rooms offering three different kinds of music: jazz/rock, Cuban and chillout. There is funky decor in all three, the prices are very good considering the location (just off Piata Romana, opposite the Howard Johnson hotel) and the crowd that congregates here is fun and trendy yet never tiresomely so. Definitely worth checking out at any time of day. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 03:00. PSW
Origo C-6, Str. Lipscani 9, tel. (+4) 0757 08 66 88. A contender for the title of best coffee shop in Bucharest. This place is all about great coffee from all over the world, as well as a fairly decent selection of tea too. Many of the more exotic coffees can be bought by the packet to make at home, and the design of the place is not too shabby either: the coffee cups hanging down over the bar are a nice touch. Theres relaxing music, cocktails and - here comes the big news - inside it is totally non-smoking. QOpen 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PBSW Readers Cafe B-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 89-97, MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4) 0737 32 33 77, www. readerscafe.ro. This place is one of the great things about the Metropolis Centre, of which the Starlight Suites and Loft restaurant also form part. You will find Readers on the ground floor, a modern, bright and well-lit space where you can read, drink great coffee or eat - far better than you would expect. The breakfast is terrific, the sandwiches tasty and well-filled, the salads big and the pasta light. Live music most evenings (early evening) and well separated smoking and non-smoking sections. Nice. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PLESW Serendipity Tea House C-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie
12, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0743 28 33 42, www. serendipity-tea.ro. Tea, and lots of it. There are more than 55 types of tea available, including the trademark Serendip-
ity, an aromatic yet fruity green tea with more than a hint of strawberries. A quiet location just off an otherwise busy central street make this a superb choice for long, peaceful afternoons reading a good book with a great cup of tea or two. Oh, and we should point out that the coffee menu is not bad either. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. TEGW
Subsol Bar C-5, Str. Demetru Ion Dobrescu 5, MUniversi-
Una B-5, Str. Dona Nicolae 18, tel. (+4) 0743 09 59 65. Not a cafe, not a bar, not a pub. This is a bright, happy place for all sorts of events, from karaoke evenings to childrens craft fairs, poetry evenings to film nights. Oh, and we forgot to mention the dance classes and exhibitions. Check their website to see whats on when: chances are it will be something well worth checking out. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. G
B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 01. The Marriotts posh flagship caf, which is exactly as youd expect: classy, enjoyable and expensive. Sit and try to read those unmanageable newspapers on a stick, while enjoying the occasional live piano music, plus the sight of business types buzzing about to conferences. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PLESW
tate, tel. +(4) 021 315 60 98, www.subsolbar.ro. Perhaps the most iconic building in Bucharest. Inside the shell of an old house destroyed during the 1989 revolution a new building has risen, home - fittingly - to Romanias architectural association. The cafe and bar which occupies part of the building is more than worthy of its location, a contemporary space with walls decorated with scenes from the revolution, where you can enjoy coffee and cocktails in the company of a good young crowd. There are tasty sandwiches too, which can be taken away if you are in a hurry. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PBSW
Vienna Lounge
Tekaffe B-4, Calea Grivitei 143 (Hello Hotels), MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 0372 12 18 00. The in-house cafe at the Hello Hotel is as smart, cheap and good value as the hotel itself. Serves good coffee, pastries and the like, and all with added Wifi. A more than decent meeting place. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 22:00. PLSW Tonka Soul Cafe B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 19, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0723 44 80 80, office@tonka.ro, www.tonka.ro. This place has indeed got soul, and plenty else besides. Warm and quiet coffee house by day, it becomes the perfect aperitivo spot when the sun goes down, then gets really wild as the music gets louder and the hours get shorter. Theres a good internet cafe in the basement. Q Open 24hrs. PRESW bucharest.inyourpocket.com August - September 2013
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Nightlife
beds, hence the name. It is in fact the kind of place where you could happily enjoy an exotic smoke, though as this is Bucharest, not Amsterdam, the smoke will be limited to tangy Middle Eastern tobaccos taken through a narghilea. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. PLW
Nightlife
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Ramayana Cafe A-5, Str. Baldovin Parcalabul 11, MG-
ara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 317 16 81, www.ramayana. ro. Looking like a cross between a Maharajas bedroom and the most luxurious hotel in Delhi, this cafe and cocktail bar is quite frankly unique. You will not find anywhere in Bucharest quite so startling in design, nor will you find a better place to bring a secret date for a little tete-a-tete. With more nooks and crannies than your grandmothers country house, pull up a cushion, sup on a hookah pipe and drink a green tea. Exceptional. Q Open 24 hrs. PEBSW
Bars
By Bars we refer to places where you are likely to do little else other than drink and be merry (though bar snacks may be available). By Pubs we mean venues where you can drink and get half-decent food.
Casa Vernescu B-4, Calea Victoriei 133, tel. (+4)
NEW
lobby of the Inter, which was a den of iniquity and intrigue during the communist period, all spies and journalists, plots and honey traps. Now its merely a very cool place to meet and have a drink in superb surroundings. Another one of the many reasons why the InterContinental is once again one of the top places in Bucharest to spend time. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PLEW
0733 24 20 67, www.casavernescu.ro. Besides the two new restaurants the Casa Vernescu is also home to four count them - nightlife venues. Theres the Lounge & Club, the Wine & Champagne Bar, the Cigar Club and the After Party Saloon. All have much to offer, not least the Wine & Champagne Bar, which boasts a sensational selection of top grape. Q Lounge & Club Open 23:00-05:00. Wine & Champagne Bar Open 12:00-24:00. Closed Sun. Cigar Club Open 12:00-24:00. Closed Sun. After Party Saloon Open 23:00-10:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
Ludic C-5, Str. Coltei 50, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0745
65 83 42. Quirky little bar close to the Old Town which while not being on the beaten track is a highly popular venue indeed. Serving beer, cocktails and coffee there is a nice sunny terrace out back, but the big draw here are the board games: tens of them, everything from Scrabble to Cluedo. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Fri 13:00 - 04:00, Sat 15:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PNBW
92 27, www.skybar.ro. Leaving aside the disappointment that Sky Bar - despite being on the roof - is actually only on the fifth floor, its a classy little place for the monied set which comes here to drink cocktails and dine on very good food. The salads are outstanding, as are the steaks and there is plenty of buffet-style finger food if you just want nibbles with your drinks. Its corporate and business-like but makes a change from drinking in yet another cellar in Old Town. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PVBSW
Sky Bar B-3, Calea Dorobanti 155, tel. (+4) 0724 75
Pubs
Berarie Gambrinus B-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 38, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0744 31 51 10, rezervari@ berariegambrinus.ro, www.berariegambrinus.ro. One of the most celebrated and historic pubs in Bucharest - haunt, for decades, of Caragiale, Gica Petrescu and every other local carouser - returns, this time as something of a Heineken-pub. There is Romanian beer on tap though, Gambrinus, Silva and Ciuc, available by the metre if thats what you fancy. Theres
Pillow Bar & Lounge C-4, Str. Comanita 5, tel. (+4)

0730 88 33 77, www.pillow.ro. The odd Ikea coffee table aside (and lets face it, who hasnt got at least half a dozen Ikea coffee tables these days?), Pillow is the kind of place we like to see opening up. It is cool without being pretentious, serves Illy coffee and has a couple of tables that double as
English Bar C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77 ext. 6759. One of our regular haunts. This little corner of the Hilton that will forever be associated with intrigue and spies (it has been around for as long as the hotel) remains today a classy bar serving champagne by the glass and much else besides (including a tremendous pint of Guinness). Packed most days with business leaders it also regularly hosts sophisticated, carefully-chosen theme parties, and on some Thursday nights a DJ turns this little bar into the most happening venue in town, a favourite of Bucharests fashionistas. now. Q Open 17:00 - 02:00. PLW
some good pub grub too, not least the sausages which were terrific. Prices more than reasonable and theres even a nonsmoking section. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. PSW
Casinos
Casino Bucharest C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4
(InterContinental Hotel), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 83 38 28/(+4) 021 312 26 00, concierge@ casinobucharest.ro, w w w.casinobucharest.ro. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PLK
Dreamers B-5, Str. Gen. Berthelot 111, tel. (+4) 0723
Europes Smoking Section

Last year, flying in the face of what the rest of the civilised world is up to, Romania actually softened its existing anti-smoking legislation. In fact, to all intents and purposes, there will soon be no more anti-smoking rules in Romania. This really is The Smoking Section of Europe. You see, while smoking will as planned now be theoretically outlawed in all public spaces (thats the headline which they will send to the EU), the owners of those public spaces will now be able to override the law and decide for themselves if a place is to be designated smoking or non-smoking. If a place decides to designate itself as a smoking venue (and lets face it, they almost all will) under the new law it will not even have to have a non-smoking section. As such, in our listings we have only included a nonsmoking symbol where a venue is completely nonsmoking. (There arent many). Otherwise, assume that venues will allow smoking almost anywhere. While most will - for now - retain at least a token non-smoking section, this can often be just one table in a corner somewhere. Note that when it comes to hotels, we have used the non-smoking symbol to indicate those hotels which have fully non-smoking rooms.
11 22 00, www.dreamers.ro. As Spock might say, its Dreamers Jim, but not as we know it. For if you remember the old location as always being a bit cramped (though we have to admit it was not without its charms) then you are in for a nice shock at the new place. Everything you would expect from a pub is here, from football on the television to Guinness in the taps. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. NSW
Intermezzo Piano Bar C-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4 (Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20. Legendary and rather historic hotel bar in the
Grand Casino B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW
Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 08 00, marriott@grandcasinoromania.com, www. grandcasinoromania.com. Q Open 24 hrs.
Metropolis Casino B-5, Str. Calea Victoriei 37B
(Novotel), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0742 07 91 19, (+4) 0742 07 91 20/(+4) 021 367 34 12, contact@ metropoliscasinobucharest.ro, www.metropoliscasinobucharest.ro. Q Open 24hrs. PLKW
Dubliner A-4, B-dul N. Titulescu 18, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 260 26 78. Legendary boozer in the sense that it was the first real pub to open in Bucharest (back in 1995). Unchanged in years the Dubliner remains a favourite of many old school expats, although the location makes it a bit of a trek for Old Town or city centre-based visitors. Serves a good chicken pie and English breakfast, an exemplary Guinness and offers a wide range of sports courtesy of Sky TV. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PBSW Edgars Pub C-5, Str. Edgar Quinet 9, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 314 18 43. At lunchtime office boys and students mix happily as they tuck into great sandwiches and salads, while in the evening a similarly mixed crowd of good time people enjoys the laid back atmosphere always on offer here. It gets crowded downstairs at weekends, but that just adds to the fun. Recently given a thorough makeover. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. PNSW
Platinum Casino B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radis-
son Blu), tel. (+4) 031 710 22 34, (+4) 0720 22 74 66, platinum@platinumcasino.ro, www.platinumcasino.ro. Q Open 24 hrs. PLK
Johnson Grand Plaza), MP-ta Romana, tel. (+4) 0372 76 34 45, www.queen-casino.ro. Q Open 24 hrs. PRULKW
Queen Casino B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7 (Howard
Energiea B-6, Str. Brezoianu 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0736 37 44 32, www.energiea.ro. We like this place a lot: the high ceilings and big windows make it a good choice day and night, the original (we think?) floor looks great and August - September 2013
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there are a number of different rooms, not all of which carry the industrial-chic look of the main bar. Best of all though we like the raised interior balcony. Top cocktail-sipping territory. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 15:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PLBSW tel. (+4) 0729 89 27 68, www.happypub.ro. What could be termed as a good, solid, no frills pub that eschews clutter and trendy crap and concentrates on the beer, the cocktails and treating its customers well. Theres a regular crowd of locals and foreigners, and its the kind of place where you never feel too young or too old. Top selection of brews (including several imported British beers and stouts), decent music and bar food. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. PSW hippest and coolest people in the land. Late at night this is the smartest chill-out venue in the city, and we (and just about everybody else) love it. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 05:00. PSW
Nightlife
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Happy Pub B-4, Str. Caderea Bastiliei 36, MPiata Victoriei,
Terminus B-5, Str. George Enescu 5, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 318 16 67, www.terminus.ro. Pub/bar on the ground floor, while downstairs there is a basement bar which becomes more a nightclub with an industrial feel as the evening wears on. Theres a big bar and getting a drink once not easy - is now a joy thanks to top staff. The central location right between the Radisson and Hilton guarantees it a steady flow of thirsty visitors. Guinness on tap. QOpen 09:30 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 06:00. PW White Horse B-3, Str. George Clinescu 4A, tel. (+4) 021 231 27 95, www.whitehorse.ro. The White Horse has been around so long it should probably consider going out to stud. Or should it? On a recent visit we found it to be in surprisingly good shape, and packed with both locals of the ordinary people variety, as well as group of rowdy expats. There is still good food in the more formal part upstairs, with bar snacks served down. We have always loved the square bar. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PBSW
La Calderon 80 C-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 80, tel. (+4) 021 212 48 86, www.lacalderon80.ro. With its wooden interior, inoffensive music and gangs of young people clustered around big tables, La 80 does much to distinguish itself from a swathe of similar establishments. Reasonable food and prices, and this little place opposite Gradina Icoanei is a nice retreat from more frantic venues elsewhere. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PBSW Old Nick Pub C-4, Str. Dionisie Lupu 88 (Piata Lahovari), MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0733 52 51 50, www.oldnickpub.ro. Three-level venue in Piata Lahovari, featuring a club downstairs (open until 4am), with a pub on the ground floor and a cafe on the first. The pub is great, unsurprising when you find out that it is run by the same people who have for ten years operated the legendary Old Nick Pub in Sinaia. Besides decent drinks at decent prices there is a good bar food menu, and the cafe upstairs comes complete with art on the walls (for sale, we believe) is well worth a visit. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PSW
(+4) 0732 22 26 66, www.primuspub.ro. Big pub that goes a long way towards convincing us that we do not need to go to Old Town to find a decent drinker in Bucharest. From the very good attempt at an English breakfast to a decent pint of both Guinness and Kilkenny you can add their own beer, Primus, a decent-tasting bargain. The huge windows open fully so it feels much like a street cafe. Service is good too, and we love the retro-style black and white tiled floor. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PBW
Clubs & Discos

Bucharests club scene is dynamic and one of the best in this part of Europe. There is just about something for every taste, from mega-clubs bringing in top foreign DJs each week to local live music venues.
Barletto Club Str. Oltetului 30, tel. (+4) 0751 04 04
Primus B-5, Str. George Enescu 3, MPiata Romana, tel.
06, www.barletto.ro. It has now had a few names this place, but it remains one of the citys best, most exclusive and of course most expensive uber-clubs. Featuring some of the sexiest dancers in Romania Friday and Saturday nights here are wild. The music is supplied by the worlds best DJs. You will need to take a taxi here, but then this is not the kind of place for people who use public transport anyway. Note that Barlettos large pool is open during the summer from 10:0018:00. entrance is 20 lei Mon-Fri, 40 lei Sat, Sun. Q Open 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PLEW
BOA (Beat of Angels) B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4)

0736 30 07 00, www.boaclub.ro. From the outside a fairly nondescript building that looks vaguely like a warehouse, but once in, wow! It is an enormous place that mixes luxury with great music courtesy of two top local resident DJs. There is plenty of space to dance, plenty of places to chill out and even the toilets are spacious and damn well luxurious. You will leave wanting to go back and cursing your luck that it is only open twice a week. Oh, and wear sunglasses, everybody else seems to! QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PLEBW
different, and the place has been given a makeover to keep it sparking and at the cutting edge of the Bucharest nightlife scene: honestly, if its top people and top sounds you want in an exclusive setting then this should be your first stop in the city. Boasts the sexiest dancers, the best DJs and is guaranteed to leave you bleary-eyed the next morning and wanting more. Get in. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. Day tickets (for the swimming pool) cost 20 lei Mon-Fri, 30 lei Sat, Sun. PLBW tate, tel. (+4) 0733 92 78 61, www.control-club.ro. Still tops our list of clubs for people who do not like clubs. It is a brilliant place where there is always something going on, be it a DJ or live music supplied by one of Bucharests better live acts. Note also that it opens early afternoon: its a pub as much as a club, and now that the weather is good enough it has a smart terrace. Fantastic. QOpen 01:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 06:00. PEW
fire, and a few which involve wearing a World War II Russian army helmet. They also serve at least one which involves a young Russian girl squeezing lemon into your mouth with her teeth. At weekends it is packed and the small dancefloor is the sweatiest place in Bucharest. You will love it. QOpen 17:00 - 04:00. PENW MPiata Unirii/Izvor, tel. (+4) 0733 97 47 28, www. expirat.org. A club with two faces. Expirat is home to some of Bucharests most eclectic sounds, and as it has an OtherSide (Expirats club within a club), chances are there is bound to be something going on you fancy. The music policy is a bit of everything: folk (usually live on Mondays), electro, alternative, rock and indie with hip-hop, reggae and disco sometimes thrown in for good measure. (Check the venues Facebook page to see whats on the night you fancy going). Drinks are well priced, and there are two bars meaning that you never have to wait too long to get served. Top notch. Q Open 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (Expirat); 20:00 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. (The OtherSide). PEW
Expirat & OtherSide Club B-5, Str. Ion Brezoianu 4,
Control Club C-5, Str. Constantin Mille 4, MUniversi-
Shift C-4, Str. Eremia Grigorescu 17, tel. (+4) 021

211 22 72, www.shiftpub.ro. Its doubtful that youve seen anything like this place in Bucharest before. Shift is a Bohemian restaurant/bar/club of some style. It is, in a word, gorgeous, and has been packed since opening day with the
14, www.facebook.com/chaos.venue. Smashing live music club. Expect good - mainly local but often foreign - live acts most nights of the week, with a reasonably big name performing at least once or twice a month. Good beer, a very good atmosphere and a real favourite of big groups of friends looking for a great night out. You can eat here too: theres a restaurant serving some terrific, big-portioned Romanian food on site. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PLEBSW
Chaos E-6, Str. Turturelelor 11, tel. (+4) 0731 49 51
Cuzco Club C-4, Str. Mendeelev 35, tel. (+4) 0722 50 17 93, www.cuzcoclub.ro. One of the biggest clubs in central Bucharest. Offers a mix of house and South American beats on the music front, as well as regular live events. Its a bit classier than your average Bucharest club, and the crowd it attracts is a rich mix of age groups. No chance of feeling either too young or too old here. Worth a look. QOpen 20:00 - 08:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Deja-vu C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 25, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 311 23 22, www.dejavu-club.ro. A place that goes from strength to strength. Still the best cocktail bar this side of the River Prut, it is now open during the day for food too: you could spend your whole life in here. The draw though remain the participatory cocktails, some of which involve
Fratelli Str. Glodeni 1-3, tel. (+4) 0731 03 62 22, www.

fratelli.ro. Top notch. One of Bucharests uber-clubs, where the richest and best looking people in the city come to see
Club LYO A-2, Str. Primo Nebiolo 1, Piata Montreal, tel. (+4) 0720 73 47 34, www.lyoclub.ro. The club formerly known as Player Summer. The concept this year is subtly Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Remember: there are loads more Cafes, Bars, Pubs and Clubs in Bucharests Old Town. See pages 74-87.
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and be seen. Serving up a neverending supply of top DJs from both Romania and abroad, it is clear that the people who run this place consider the music to be as important as anything else: something not every club in this town can boast. Not cheap (kind of the point) if you stick to the beer and do not sit at a table (which requires you buy a bottle of spirits) then you can still have a reasonably priced night out here. Brilliant. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PL
WHat to see
Music Club C-6, Str. Baratiei 31, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0720 88 71 15, www.music-club.ro. A live music venue where youll find a great resident band most evenings performing creditable covers of all your favourite classic hits. They are more often than not joined on stage in the early hours by leading Romanian musicians who have quickly made this place their preferred haunt. Very nice indeed; be prepared to have a very good time. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. PEW
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Essential Bucharest
The first port of call for any visitor to Bucharest these days should be the Historic Centre, or Old Town. After that you can head for the sights, museums, churches and buildings we list here. The Peasant and Village Museums should take priority, as well as the Grigore Antipa National History Museum. The most famous building in the city and usually top of the agenda for most visitors, Casa Poporului/ Palatul Parlamentului tends to be a bit of a let down, but is a must nevertheless. Art lovers should pencil in at least an afternoon at the National Art Museum, while last but not least, half a day at the Bellu Cemetery is a wonderful trip through Romanian literary, artistic and political history.
Sightseeing Buses
While Bucharest does not pack the tourist punch of some European capitals, there is nevertheless plenty to see in the Romanian capital, and every summer an RATB initiative gives visitors the opportunity to take in the citys major sights from the top of an open-top double-decker bus. The buses run from 10:00 to 21:00 along a circuitous route from Casa Scanteii to Piata Unirii, taking in Bulevardul Kiseleff, Calea Victoriei, Bulevardul Libertatii, Casa Poporului and Bulevardul Unirii along the way. On the way back the buses travel along Bulevardul I.C. Bratianu, Bulevardul Magheru, Ana Ipatescu and Bulevardul Aviatorilor. The buses make frequent stops at all of the major sights along the route, and should run at 15 minute intervals, although sometimes you might have to wait a little bit longer. Tickets (which cost 25 lei for adults, 10 lei for children, and can be bought on board, or at selected hotels) are valid until midnight on the day of purchase, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off as many times as you like throughout the day. You do, however, need to validate the tickets each time you board a bus. Headphones offer basic recorded commentary in a number of languages. grand staircases, marble-plated halls and conference rooms, while - if you pay the extra - you may also have the chance to go on the roof, which offers perhaps the best view of central Bucharest. You can even now take a trip into the bowels of the building down below, though again this costs extra. To join one of the tours, you should make reservations a day in advance as parliamentary business means the official opening hours are subject to change. You will also need to bring your passport, driving license or other form of internationally accepted ID. Use the entrance on the right-hand side of the palace (if youre looking at it front-on). Izvor is probably the nearest metro station, but youll get a better view from Piata Unirii. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00 (last tour 15:30). Admission 25 lei adults, 13 lei students (standard tour); 30 lei adults, 13 lei students (standard and basement); 35 lei adults, 18 lei students (standard and terrace); 45 lei adults, 23 lei students (standard, terrace and basement). Free for children under 18 and the disabled. An additional fee of 30.00 lei is payable by those with cameras, either still or video.
Kristal Glam Club B-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 34, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 79 51 84, www.clubkristal.ro. Bucharests longest-running uber-club, still probably your first reference point for top international DJs and hedonistic nights out in the Romanian capital. It has been in a few locations over the years, but the latest, in a converted cinema close to the city centre is - in our opinion - the best yet. Whats more, unlike a few clubs of the upmarket kind, which are merely for posing, Kristal has a proper dance floor. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PNW Kulturhaus C-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 4, MPiata Unirii/Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 55 92, www.kulturhaus.ro. The student favourite. A nakedly non-commercial club that attracts a nakedly non-commercial crowd on two levels offering hard rock, folk rock, new wave, punk and indie upstairs, and pretty much the same downstairs (though it depends on the DJ...) Has a live band playing at least once a week, bags of other events and refreshingly says NO to table service: yes, you will have to get your sorry ass to the bar to get a drink. We are fans. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PLE www.legaga.ro. Summer Bamboo. Stylish and contemporary and amazingly over-the-top this is another of Bucharests uber-clubs for the wealthy and the beautiful. Having said that, Le Gaga is that most unique of clubs in the sense that whenever weve been here, people actually seem to be having a good time. You do not have to be dressed like an idiot to fit in, the music is a good mix of local and international, and there are regular personal appearances by top local acts. To call it decent would be an understatement. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PLEBW
Panic! C-5, Str. Academiei 19, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0766 05 61 70, www.panic-club.ro. Panic!, possibly the first club in Bucharest named after a song by The Smiths, offers a mix of music centering on (but in no way confined to) alternative rock. There are plenty of live acts performing regularly and theres always a good crowd of music lovers to share it all with. Refreshingly, its open every night of the week (many clubs in Bucharest are not) and there is always, always something going on. Get in. QOpen 14:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 06:00. PEW Puzzle B-4, Calea Victoriei 155, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0772 16 00 31, www.liveinpuzzle.ro. With half an eye on the lunchtime crowd from the surrounding office blocks, Puzzle is that most unique of Bucharest venues: it is all things to all people. It does a great buffet lunch (which it will even deliver if you are close enough) while after work it gently becomes a highly sound cocktail bar and lounge while still serving food a la carte. The burger, at 21 lei, is a bargain. Regularly hosts live events, from music to theme nights. And given the location in the heart of Officeland, prices are OK. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. PVEBSW The Silver Church A-5, Calea Plevnei 61, MIzvor, tel. (+4) 0723 37 90 26, www.tscarena.ro. A great place to see good local bands. Looking (inside) very much like a, well. silver church (albeit one which has dropped plenty of acid), its a cavernous venue with terrific acoustics and it is this mix of big club/small concert hall that gives it the edge over some other venues. So good is the sound that the biggest local bands are playing here simply for the hell of it. A winner. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. PUE
Le Gaga Str. Oltetului 30, tel. (+4) 0727 53 42 42,
13 51. Now prefaced by Moonlight, this is still in many ways the Downtown as many will remember it, complete with girls dancing on the bar in their underwear and some of the liveliest theme nights in the city. Big and cavernous it nevertheless always seems to be packed out, a sign of its enduring popularity. Hosts regular events, including stand-up comedy (of the Romanian variety). QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. PLEW
Moonlight Club C-4, Str. Mendeleev 32, tel. (+4) 0724 75
Jazz Clubs
Art Jazz Club B-4, Calea Victoriei 52, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0731 64 59 18, adiandries@yahoo.fr, www.artjazzclub.ro. Sometimes packed and bubbling over, at other times less so but always smoky, Art Jazz Club puts on as many jazz concerts as it can every week (usually three or four). The quality of the music is almost always good, and the drinks are amongst the cheapest in the area. Entrance is actually through a small door next to a little car park behind the Senate, rather than on Balcescu as the address suggests. QOpen 17:30 04:00. PENW
Botanical Gardens Sos. Cotroceni 32, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 021 410 91 39, www.gradina-botanica.ro. For locals, this is one of the citys most popular attractions. Attracted by its relatively central location, easy parking on surrounding streets, cheap entrance fee and most of all by the fabulous greenhouses, the garden is a gorgeous place and is packed at weekends. The garden, administratively part of Bucharest Universitys Botanical Institute, was founded in 1860 and today extends over an area of more than 17 hectares, and hosts more than 10,000 species of plants, approximately half of which are cultivated in the impressive glasshouses. It is straight for the glasshouses that most people head from the main entrance, for they keep short hours. Most of the glasshouses have been renovated (or even entirely rebuilt) over the past couple of years, and they look better than ever. They get gradually hotter as you move around them, and the plants within them increasingly weird and exotic. Captioning is good: the origins of each plant are given in almost all cases, and the whole experience of walking through the greenhouse complex is at once pleasant and fascinating. Kids will find plenty to keep them occupied, not least the cacti and the rather impressive collection of venus fly traps. The rest of the Botanical Garden is a vast expanse of various flora, from micro-forests to flower gardens, some more impressive than others, but all with merit. The plants are divided into their geographical areas of origin, be it Romania or further afield. As with the glasshouses, captions and display boards are excellent throughout (some are even in English as well as Romanian). Look out for squirrels, and worry not about dogs: we explored more or less the whole garden and saw not a single stray mutt. The Botanical Garden is also home to the Botanical Museum.Q Gardens open 08:00-20:00. Botanical Museum open 10:00-15:00, 09:0013:00 Sat, Sun, closed Fri. Greenhouses open 10:00-13:00, closed Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission to the gardens 5.00 lei, students and children 2.00 lei. Museum and greenhouses cost extra: 2 lei adults, 1 leu children. Casa Poporului (Parliament Palace; Palatul Parlamentului) B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 1, MIzvor, tel. (+4)
toriei 120, tel. (+4) 0788 45 24 85, rezervari-bar@ greenhours.ro, www.greenhours.ro. Legendar y, trendy, atmospheric jazz club, where its almost impossible to find a table. Make sure you reserve in advance if you want to sit down. There is live music and other arty stuff - including theatre, comedy, book launches and the like - most evenings. Popular with a crowd that encompasses all ages, from 18-80, its definitely a place you should visit once before leaving Bucharest. Q Open 24hrs. PENBW
Green Hours 22 Club Jazz Caf B-4, Calea Vic-
021 311 36 11, www.cdep.ro. What is unquestionably Romanias most famous building, Palatul Parlamentului (known universally as Casa Poporului) was built during the darkest days of the Nicolae Ceausescu regime. Standing 84m above ground level on 12 floors, the building has long been shrouded in mystery, rumour and hyperbole. Originally designed to house almost all the organs of the communist state, it today plays host to the Romanian parliament and a modern, well equipped conference centre, as well as Romanias Museum of Contemporary Art. Much of the building, however, remains unused. The public tour of the building is thoroughly recommended (it is the only way to see the building, in fact) though the commentary often consists of little more than a guide reeling off endless superlative statistics. Youll see plenty of
os. Kiseleff 1, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 312 88 26, www.antipa.ro. One of Romanias finest museums, and one of the best natural history museums in Europe, which recently benefited from a three year, 14 million refit. Packed with terrific exhibits (including the obligatory dinosaur skeletons) which will keep kids of all ages and their parents occupied for the best part of the day, there are all sorts of hands-on, interactive displays, as well as 3D films, artificial caves and - in the basement - a thorough guide to the incredible amount of animal and plant life native to Romania. The building which houses it all is itself worthy of note, purpose built in 1908 at the behest of Grigore Antipa, a noted Romanian naturalist who then set-up and ran the museum for almost five decades until his death in 1944. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 lei, pensioners 10 lei, children/students 5 lei.
Grigore Antipa Museum of Natural Histor y (Muzeul de Istorie Natural Grigore Antipa) B-3,
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What to see
Bellu Cemetery Herastrau Park
B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32, MAviatorilor. Anyone who still thinks that Bucharest is a city of concrete and cement has clearly never been to the citys lung, the incomparable Herastrau Park. Quite simply, this glorious park, spread over 187 hectares around Herastrau lake is one of the jewels in Bucharests crown, which might explain why half of the city chooses to spend its summer Sunday afternoons here. Fear not though, for so big is Herastrau that it never gives the impression of being crowded, and even on the busiest of days you will always be able to find a quiet, shady corner somewhere. If you look hard enough. There is a ton to do in Herastrau, far more than most people - including locals - realise. The park has two main entrances, although by far the most elegant is that which borders Piata Charles de Gaulle. It is also conveniently located close to Aviatorilor metro station. The other entrance, at the far end of Soseaua Kisellef, opposite Casa Scanteii, is better for those coming by car as there is some (but not a lot) of parking available. The first thing you will see when entering the park from Piata Charles de Gaulle is a tall, bronze, rather bizarre statue of de Gaulle himself. Unveiled in 2006 the statue is the work of local artist Mircea Corneliu Spataru, and was commissioned by the Ministry of Culture to commemorate Bucharests hosting that year of the Francophonie conference. A Romanian newspaper, Adevarul, named it the third ugliest statue in the city in 2010. Still, it could be worse: between 1952 and 1961 a statue of Stalin stood on the same spot. Charles de Gaulle is not the only historic figure honoured in this part of the park with a statue or bust, however. In fact, the alleyways and paths which fan out from the entrance are all dotted with famous people, from Romanian revolutionary Nicolae Balcescu to Bengali literatures most important figure, Rabindranath Tagore. Look out also for local artists Nicolae Grigorescu, Constantin Brancusi and Theodor Aman, as well as writers George Cosbuc, Alexandru Vlahuta and Romanias national poet, Mihai Eminescu. Other foreigners honoured with statues include William Shakespeare, Ady Endre, Sandor Petofi and Victor Hugo. Oh, and theres a memorial to Michael Jackson too. Yes, really. One of the more recent additions to Herastrau is the Reef Aquarium. There are two exhibitions, which together feature more than 300 kinds of fish and sealife, as well as 100 marine plants. You can find the aquarium at the end of the long promenade that leads into the park from Piata Charles de Gaulle. Its open daily from 10:00-18:00, and admission costs 10 lei for adults, 8 lei for children over three (the under threes are free). There are boat trips on the lake throughout the summer, as well as a shuttle that links one side to the other. Boat trips depart from the quay (debarcader) behind the Hard Rock Cafe. To get there from the main entrance you need to cross what is known as the Insula Trandafirilor (Island of the Roses). At the right time of year the paths are quite literally lined with roses and its one of the most gorgeous sights in Bucharest. Look out too for the exotic birds kept on the island. Cyclists and joggers should note that the path which circumnavigates the lake is just under 6km in length. Swimming in the lake is strictly forbidden, although you will often see local kids taking a dip. During the summer you can rent bikes from La Pedale, close to the entrance. Rental is free but limited to two hours. You will need ID. in the country. Housed in a wonderful red brick building designed by Nicolae Ghica-Budeti, dating from 1912, the museum offers a range of exhibitions showing you all you need to know about the diverse and fascinating history of life around the Romanian countryside over the past four centuries. There are exhibitions covering all aspects of Romanian peasant life, from handpainted Easter eggs to terracotta pottery, from colourful religious icons to a huge range of traditional clothing. Replicas of some of what is on display can be bought in the excellent museum shop. Fittingly for the building that from 1948-89 was home to the Museum of the Communist Party and Romanian Revolutionary Workers Movement, there is a collectivisation exhibition in the basement. The Peasant Museum hosts excellent craft fairs in its courtyard at least once a month. It also puts on childrens puppet shows at weekends (usually at 10:30 and 12:00, both Saturday and Sunday) and has a terrace cafe. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last admission 17:00. Admission 8 lei, students and children 2 lei, pensioners 3 lei. There are audioguides available in English, French, German and Romanian from 12 lei. Entrance to the craft fairs (held every month or so in the rear courtyard) usually costs around 6 lei.
What to see
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Calea Serban Voda 249, MEroii Revolutiei, tel. (+4) 021 636 35 71, www.bellu.ro. Founded in the 1850s, this is Bucharests most historic cemetery, the final resting place of just about every great Romanian academic, scientist, artist, writer, musician and poet you can think of, as well as the odd politician. Each has his or her own plot, usually with an accompanying monument (our favourite is that devoted to the comic actor Toma Caragiu, tragically killed in the Bucharest earthquake of 1977). You could spend half a day here wandering between the gravestones, memorials and statues (the graves are grouped by profession: scientists in one part, actors in another etc). You should also be sure to visit the central chapel (which keeps the same hours as the cemetery itself), built in the 1880s in the style of the cathedral at Karlovy Vary and boasting stunning interior paintings. Next to the cemetery is the Cimitirul Eroilor, where those killed in Bucharest during the 1989 revolution are buried. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
Village Museum (Muzeul Naional al Satului Dimitrie Gusti) A-2, Sos. Kiseleff 28-30, MAviatorilor, tel.
30/(+4) 021 314 81 19, www.mnar.arts.ro. The countrys largest, and most impressive art collection is housed inside the splendid former Royal Palace, first built in 1812 as a private home by the wealthy trader Dinicu Golescu. When his sons fell into financial ruin some years later, they were forced to sell the building to the state, which carried out huge modifications, adding a number of new wings. It became a royal residence in 1859, when it became the site of the court of the first prince of the united principalities, Alexandru Ion Cuza. Although slightly remodelled in the 1930s, the building we see today is more or less the original. There are two permanent galleries, split over three floors of the main building. National Art (itself divided into Medieval Romanian Art - featuring icons, carved altars, illustrated manuscripts and bibles, and fragments of frescoes, and Modern Romanian Art, with all of Romanias greatest 20th century artists well represented, including Theodor Aman, Constantin Brancui, Gheorghe Patracu, and Gheorghe Tattarescu); and European Paintings and Sculpture, which plays host to a fine collection of Old European Masters from all of the major schools. The museum also hosts a fine selection of temporary exhibitions. Essential. Q Open 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 8 lei for The Gallery of European Art, 10 lei for The National Gallery (T reasure included) and 15 lei for combined tickets (both galleries).
National Art Museum (MNAR; Muzeul National de Arta) B/C-5, Calea Victoriei 49-53, tel. (+4) 021 313 30
(+4) 021 317 91 10, www.muzeul-satului.ro. Outstanding. Founded by Royal Decree in 1936, and covering some 15 hectares on the shores of Lake Herstru, Muzeul Satului is one of the greatest outdoor museums in the Balkans. There are more than 60 original houses, farmsteads, windmills, watermills and churches from all of Romanias historic regions: Transylvania, Oltenia, Dobrogea and Moldavia. Every exhibit has a plaque showing exactly where in Romania it was brought from. Some even now have recorded commentary in four languages (if the stickers are missing, press the second button for English). Most of the houses date from the mid 19th-century, but there are some, such as those from Berbeti, in the heart of Romania celebrated for their intricately carved entrances - which date from as early as 1775. The highlight of the museum is probably the steep belfry of the wooden Maramure church, complete with exquisite but faded icons. You should also not miss the earth houses of Straja, dug in to the ground and topped with thatched roofs, or the brightly painted dwellings of the Danube Delta. The museum has a great souvenir shop, and a stall selling traditional Romanian sweets and cakes. It even has a restaurant, La Francu, set in an original 19th-century inn. Children love the museum, and it makes for a perfect family outing. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Mon 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 10 lei, pensioners 5 lei, students/children 2.50 lei. Audio guides available for 50 lei, guided tours in English, French, Spanish, Italian, Russian 300 lei: call in advance). Note that while the museum is open on Mondays, the houses are not.
Atheneum (Ateneul Romn) C-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 315 25 67, www.fge.org.ro. Possibly the finest building in the city, the Romanian Atheneum, with its sublime baroque cupola, stands proudly at the flux of the citys busiest public square, competing with the Athenee Palace Hilton hotel, the Royal Palace and the old national library for attention. The work of French architect Albert Galleron, who also designed the National Bank of Romania, the building was inaugurated on February 26, 1888, and was built almost entirely with money donated by ordinary citizens of the capital, when a campaign called Give a penny for the Atheneum (Dati un leu pentru Ateneu) rescued the project from folly after the original patrons ran out of funds. Today the seat of the Romanian Philarmonic George Enescu, the auditorium can seat 800 spectators comfortably, and is renowned worldwide for its outstanding acoustics. Casa Presei Libere (Casa Scnteii) A-1, Piata Presei Libere 1. An impressive edifice standing somewhat menacingly at the entrance to the capital, Casa Scanteii (as it is still universally known) was designed by architect Horia Maicu and completed in 1956, one year after the strikingly similar (though much taller) Palace of Science and Culture in Warsaw, Poland. Originally housing the editorial offices of almost all of the capitals newspapers, it today carries out much the same function. Jurnalul Naional, one of the countrys most popular dailies, is just one newspaper still produced here. The facade - once rather fetching - has in recent years been defaced by the addition of advertising hoardings.
B-4, Calea Victoriei 13. The home of the National Savings Bank (Casa de Economii si Consemnaiuni; CEC) is one of the most fabulous Neo-Classical facades in the city: the enormous arch that houses the entrance, with its mighty
Buildings with a history

Bucharest has a number of curious, historical buildings, which fit none of our other categories all that well. As a result, weve thrown them all together here, under the heading Buildings with a history.
Peasant Museum (Muzeul Taranului Roman) B-3,

os. Kiseleff 3, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 317 96 61, www.muzeultaranuluiroman.ro. The Peasant Museum is one of the most enjoyable in Bucharest, and one of the best
Arcul de Triumf A-2, Piata Arcul de Triumf, MAviatorilor. Bucharests Arc de T riumf was raised in 1922 to commemorate Romanias World War I dead. The original Arc was made of wood, replaced by the present, Petru Antonescu designed concrete structure only in 1935. Standing 25 metres high, the Arc has a staircase that allows visitors to climb to the terrace on the top of the monument, though it is closed most of the time and only opened on special occasions (usually on national holidays). The sculptures and reliefs that decorate the monument were created by the leading artists of the day, including Ion Jalea, Constantin Medrea and Constantin Baraschi. bucharest.inyourpocket.com
CEC (Palatul Casei de Economii si Consemnaiuni)
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What to see
Corinthian columns, is a highlight of any architectural tour of Bucharest. Built during the last decade of the nineteenth century, to the designs of French architect Paul Gottereau, the building is no less impressive on the inside, not least the huge entrance hall with its sensational glass roof, and dome that nods towards the style of later Byzantine cathedrals.
Universitate (University of Bucharest) C-5, Piata

Universitatii, MUniversitate. Standing moodily over Piata Universitatii is the main building of the University of Bucharest. It was built over a twelve year period from 1857 to 1869. It originally housed three faculties (Law, Humanities and Science), but today houses just the Faculty of Letters and Languages, as well as the universitys administrative departments. The central corp of the building was entirely rebuilt in the late 1940s after it was destroyed during heavy allied bombing during 1944. Though rebuilt as an exact replica of the original, many sculptures by Carol Storck were deemed irreplaceable and lost forever.
Palatul din Piata Victoriei (Palatul Victoriei) B-4, B-dul Ilie Pintilie 1, MPiata Victoriei. Today the home of the Romanian government, this linear construction, with its marble facade, was built in 1937 to the designs of Duiliu Marcu, originally to house the Foreign Ministry (which is now elsewhere, on Aleea Alexandu, in a far less grand building). Note that ever since several thousand uninvited coal miners trashed the place in 1991, entrance to the building has been granted only to those on government business. Palatul Justitiei (Tribunalul Capitalei) B-6, Splailul
Independentei 5, MPiata Unirii. Romanias supreme court, host to any number of libel trials involving our good selves, is housed in a monumental building - the facade is 100 metres long - on the banks of the Dambovita. Dating from 1890, the Palace of Justice was designed by Romanian architect Adrian Ballu in the style of the French renaissance. The rather startling Sala Palatului, with its concaved roof, was designed by Tiberiu Ricci and built over 15 months from January 1959 to April 1960 as an extension of the Royal Palace (to which it is connected). The massive main auditorium, which seats 4,000, was originally used to host the five-yearly congress of the Romanian Communist Party. It today plays host to exhibitions and concerts. To make way for the building, and for the apartment blocks opposite, a 17th century church was demolished: the first of many to fall victim during the communist era.
Bucharests Historic Churches

Antim Monastery (Manastirea Antim) B-6, Str. Antim
29. The splendid Antim Monastery, with its elegant dome and gold finish was constructed between 1708 and 1715 on the orders of polymath Antim Ivireanul, patriarch of the Orthodox Church in Wallachia at the time. Antim originally intended the monastery to be a refuge for fallen women, and refugees, as well as a seat of learning. The bell tower through which we today enter the monastery was added in 1857. The monastery church is particularly worth admiring, for its sumptuous icons featuring scenes from the Nativity and Revelations, painted in 1812 by Petre Alexandrescu.
Sala Palatului B-5, Piata Palatului, www.salapalatului.ro.
Teatrul National (National Theatre) C-5, Piata 21 Decembrie 1989, MUniversitate. A building in two parts, the original National Theatre was built between 1967 and 1970, to the design of three Romanian architects, Horia Maicu, Romeo Belea and Nicolae Cucu. Originally styled to honour the architecture of Moldovas famous monasteries, it was unfortunately ruined in 1984-5 when the concrete casing that now stands gloomily in the shadow of the InterContinental was placed over the earlier structure. However, the rebuilding work currently being carried out on the building (which is covered in scaffolding) is intended to return the National Theatre to its original design by the end of this year. The odd statue in front of the theatre is called the Caruta cu paiate, a tribute to Romanias best loved playwright, Ion Luca Caragiale.
Apostles Church (Biserica Sfintii Apostoli) B-6, Str. Sfintii Apostoli 33A, MPiata Unirii. One of the oldest churches in Bucharest (with parts dating back to the 16th century, when it served as the church of the Trnovului Monastery) the Apostles Church is notable for its sublime steeple, built in 1715, and restored in 1936. Inside the church is brimming with some rather strange portraits, all of which are well worth seeing. Among the portraits are those of the churchs founder, Voivod Matei. Baratiei Church (Biserica Baratiei) C-6, Str. Baratiei 27, MPiata Unirii/Universitate. Almost poking into Bulevardul Bratianu, this particular Roman-Catholic church was built in 1828, although there has been a church here since the late 1590s. Boasting a couple of superb stained-glass windows the church holds services in Romanian and Hungarian. The name, Baratiei, derives from the Hungarian word for friend, barat. Bucur Church (Biserica Sfintii Atanasie si Chiril Bucur Ciobanu) C-7, Str. Radu Voda 33, www.
Sibiu In Your Pocket

Map Hotels Restaurants bars sights
sibiu
MiNi-GuiDE
issue N 7 Aug-Oct 2013 Complimentary Copy
www.inyourpocket.com
European Capital of Culture in 2007, the magnificent Transylvanian city of Sibiu has long been considered one of Romanias best destinations to visit. It is no surprise therefore that some of the biggest names in the hotel business have opened up shop there, as has In Your Pocket: we now publish a quarterly Mini-Guide to the city. You can pick up a copy at all good Sibiu hotels, or at any of the citys three Tourist Information Offices.
biserica-bucur.ro. First built as early as the 1300s, this could well be the site of the oldest church in Bucharest. Nobody is exactly sure how long there has been a church here, but we do know that it predates the Radu Voda monastery opposite, first constructed in 1506. Today, the Bucur Church is often ignored, hidden as it is on a hill above the street and hemmed in by two blocks. The current church was built around 1720 (thoroughly renovated in 1909-10) to serve as a chapel for the cemetery of the Radu Voda monastery. The church is named for Bucur the Shepherd, the legendary founder of Bucharest.
Contemporary Art Gallery

(+4) 0727 89 07 20, www.zorzinigallery.com. Fine contemporary art gallery working with both established and emerging Romanian artists that correspond to the gallerys aesthetic agenda, which includes graphics, painting, installation and mixed media. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PLBSW
Zorzini Gallery C-5, Str. Thomas Masaryk 31, tel.
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What to see
Colea Church (Biserica Colea) C-5, B-dul Nicolae
Blcescu 1, MUniversitate. To the left (face on) of the Colea Hospital, the church of the same name was built from 1701-2 on the site of an older, wooden construction. Recent renovation has restored much of the rich ornamentation of the interior, most of which was painted in 1876 by Gheorghe Tattarescu. Look out for the Cantacuzino family crest above the vaguely Italian baroque portal. (The church - like the hospital which surrounds it - was founded by courtier Mihai Cantacuzino).
What to see
National History Museum
Muzeul National de Istorie C-5, Calea Victoriei 12, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 82 07, www. mnir.ro. The beautiful, monumental and simply superb Neo-Classical building that houses Romanias National History Museum was constructed from 1894-1900 to the designs of local architect Alexandru Svulescu. It originally served as the headquarters of Pota Roman, the Romanian postal service. When the post office moved away in 1970, the History Museum moved in. The museums exhibitions are spread over 60 display rooms, although many are currently closed for renovation. The museums two most important collections, however, are very much open: the Lapidarium and the Romanian Treasury. The Lapidarium includes statues brought from a Bronze Age necropolis close to present day Cernavoda and what is probably the museums finest exhibit, a full-scale replica of Trajans Column. The Romanian Treasury includes jewellery from the time of the Geto-Dacians, as well as the current Romanian Crown Jewels, including the kings crown and an amazing selection of emeralds made for Queen Mary. The bizarre statue on the museums steps - which appeared during May 2012 - allegedly represents the emperor Trajan holding a wolf. It has not unsurprisingly been the subject of much ridicule, and is a popular object for both locals and visitors to ironically have their photo taken with. Until the end of August the History Museum is home to some of the Chinese terracotta soldiers of Xian, which have been lent to the museum along with a number of other fine Chinese pieces as part of the temporary exhibition The Treasures of China. As such the admission fee has been raised to 25 lei for adults, 7 lei for children. Q Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 25 lei, pensioners 15 lei, students and children 7 lei. Family tickets (two adults and up to three children) 50 lei. New St. Georges Church (Biserica Sf. Gheorghe Nou) C-6, Piata Sf. Gheorghe, MPiata Unirii. The largest
of the churches built in Bucharest during the reign of Constantin Brncoveanu, New St. Georges Church was consecrated on June 29th, 1707. It was a wonder of the age, having been designed by an Italian, Vaseleli, and decorated by the great Romanian maestros of the times: the painter Mutu, the carpenter Istrate and the sculptor Caragea. Damaged in a fire in 1847, the church was renovated from 1852-3 by the Spanish architect Villacrosse. New and outstanding interior murals were added by Marian Popp. Brncoveanu is himself allegedly buried under the church, in an unmarked grave. of the cathedrals structure is the original, built between 1654 and 1658. The outstanding bell-tower at the entrance was built in 1698, and restored in 1958. Next to the church - and closed to the public - is the Patriarchal Palace, residence of the Patriarch of the Romanian Orthodox Church. It was built in 1708. C-6, Str. Radu Vod 24A, MPiata Unirii. The church of the former Radu Vod Monastery stands on a hill on the banks of the Dmbovia, though the construction of the Civic Centre hid it from the river and from general view. There was originally a wooden church on this site, built during the reign of Mihnea the Bad, around 1508. The monastery was added in 1570, and was dedicated to the Holy Trinity. The present church - which resembles the Curtea de Arge, outside Piteti - dates from 1613-4, though it was extensively rebuilt during the 19th century, when the frescoes (all the work of Gheorghe Tattarescu) were added. The painted interior of the bell tower (through which you enter) is amazing. from 1933-4, a community of monks lived here continuously from 1835 to 1959, when they were forced to move to Cernica Monastery by Romanias communist authorities. The church is richly decorated both inside and out.
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Radu Vod Monastery (Mnstirea Radu Vod)
Museums
Art) B-4, Calea Victoriei 111, tel. (+4) 021 212 96 41/(+4) 021 212 96 42. Firstly, a few words about the building. The Casa Romanit was constructed in 1822 as a private residence, before being bought by the state in 1883 to serve as the countrys supreme court. After the communist takeover in the 1940s it was used as a dumping ground for the collections of wealthy Romanians not allowed to retain their art by the regime. There are some fantastic works on show, including paintings by all of Romanias greatest artists, from Nicolae Grigorescu to Theodor Pallady. In terms of artistic importance the collections here are second only to those at the National Museum of Art. Q Open 11:00-19:00. Closed Thu, Fri. Admission 7.00 lei, students/children 3.50 lei. Cotroceni Museum B-dul Geniului 1, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 021 317 31 07, www.muzeulcotroceni.ro. Constructed from 1888-93 at the behest of Romanias first king, Carol I, Cotroceni Palace has since 1991 been the official residence of the Romanian President. Built on the site of a former Art Collection Museum (Muzeul Colectiilor de
Creulescu Church (Biserica Creulescu) C-5, Calea Victoriei 47, MUniversitate. Probably the most celebrated historic church in Bucharest. Biserica Creulescu was raised from 1720-2 by Iordache Creulescu and his wife Safta, a daughter of Romanian humanitarian Constantin Brncoveanu. The outstanding paintings on the entrance are original, the work of an unknown artist, while the interior icons were added in 1859 by the prolific Gheorghe Tattarescu. Damaged during the fighting of December 1989, the church has recently been restored to its full glory, and is a must. Doamnei Church (Biserica Maicii Domnului) C-5,
Calea Victoriei 28, MUniversitate. One of Bucharests many hidden churches: find it in the little courtyard behind Pizza Hut on the corner of Calea Victoriei and Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta. The church dates from 1683, and was built on the orders of Princess Maria, wife of Prince Serban Cantacuzino. The church was the first in the city to boast octagonal stone pillars: note the decorative floral motifs of oriental origin at the foot and top of each column. They also decorate the door.
Schitul Darvari (Darvari Hermitage) C-5, Str. Schitul Darvari 3, www.schituldarvari.ro. The walled Schitul Darvari, with its lovely grounds - is a gorgeous oasis of peace and quiet in busy central Bucharest. Founded in 1834 by Mihai Darvari and his wife Elena - who purchased the site from the Biserica Icoanei - it was originally a private church for the Darvari family and their close acquaintances. Renovated extensively in 1894 and again
Bucharests Other Parks

Carol Park (Parcul Carol I/Parcul Libertii) C-7, Calea Serban Vod, MEroii Revolutiei. So close to the city centre yet strangely forgotten by many, this large park was created for the Romania in the World exhibition which was held here in 1906. (The Technical Museum, to the left of the main entrance, is housed in one of the original exhibition pavilions). Designed by the French landscape artist Eduard Redont, the park is today dominated by the massive Monument to the Heroes of the Struggle for Freedom and Socialism (it stands 48 metres high) built in 1963 and which until 1990 housed the remains of communist leaders Gheorghe Gheorghiu-Dej and Petre Groza (it is today empty). The park offers some pleasant walks along tree-lined paths, playgrounds and terraces, and a good view of central Bucharest from the monument. The open-air Arenele Romane in the west of the park, next to the observatory of Bucharest Universitys Astronomy Department is a popular if rather rundown venue for concerts. Close by is the gorgeous Cutitul de Argint Church, built in 1796 and famous for its many exterior icons. On the other side of the park it is worth looking out for the medieval-looking Tepes Castle (which in fact dates from 1906), once a water tower but now used as offices by the Romanian Armys veterans association. Cismigiu Gardens (Grdina Cismigiu) B-5, Between B-dul Regina Elisabeta, Calea Victoriei, Str. Stirbei Vod and B-dul Schitu Mgureanu, MUniversitate. A little shabbier and generally less well-kept than Bucharests other parks, Cismigiu is nevertheless the most central of the citys public gardens and worth a stroll. Highlights include the Roman Garden, laid out in the style of ancient Rome, and including busts of Romanias most famous writers, the lake, which can be explored by rowing boat in summer, and Ion Jaleas French Memorial in Carrara marble, which commemorates those French troops killed on Romanian territory during World War I. Cismigiu has a couple of cafes, refreshment kiosks and terraces, as well as some good, large childrens playgrounds. bucharest.inyourpocket.com
lovely park featuring some of the best playgrounds in the city. Divided into two parts, the main section (closest to Tineretului metro) offers a few rides for kids, trampolines and dodgems, as well as playgrounds and plenty of treelined avenues great for strolling. There is free bike hire (bring ID) in the summer too. In the middle of the park is the Sala Polivalenta a popular venue for concerts, exhibitions and big indoor sporting events - set above a large artificial lake on the shore of which is a great terrace, Cafeneaua Actorilor de Vara, which serves some of the best mici in the city. Up by Sala Polivalenta you will also find the entrance to Oraselul Copiilor, a childrens funfair, complete with big wheel and other rides. It was recently renovated and is a good choice for families with kids. The best part of Tineretului however is probably the southern side, known as Parcul Vacaresti or Parcul Copiilor, on the corner of B-dul Tineretului and Calea Vacaresti. Here you will find the best and biggest childrens playgrounds in the city here. There is also an old steam engine for kids to clamber on, a go-kart track, tennis courts, football pitches, volleyball and basketball courts. There are even barbeque spots where you can bring your steaks, sausages and mici and get your grill on.
B-6, Str. Sfintii Apostoli, MPiata Unirii. To say this church has been the victim of bad luck is an understatement. Built in 1885, the church is named after Constantin Brncoveanus sixth daughter, who built an earlier church on the site in 1744, but which burnt down soon after. In 1751 a second church was built; but that was also later damaged, during an earthquake in 1838. Building work almost immediately started on a third church, but that too proved unstable and just 40 years later it was replaced by the current, orange-coloured, Neo-Romanesque building. Serious cracks that appeared after another earthquake in 1940 were repaired in the 1960s, only to be damaged again in the massive earthquake of 1977.
Domnia Balaa Church (Biserica Domnia Balaa)
Tineretului Park (Parcul Copiilor, Parcul Vacaresti) B-dul Tineretului, MTineretului. A large, mostly
Icon Church (Biserica Icoanei) C-4, Str. Icoanei 12.
The Church of the Icon is named after the 17th century icon of the Holy Virgin in the nave, a gift from Constantin Brncoveanu. A wooden church was built on this site as early 1681-82, the first brick church being erected in 1745-50, only for it to collapse during a devastating earthquake in 1838. Rebuilt the same year, the high altar was added in 1850. Note the grave of General Ioan Odobescu (1793-1857) alongside the church, adorned with a helmet.
C-5, B-dul N. Blcescu 28, MUniversitate. Juxtaposed by 1930s blocks on the busiest street in the city, the red brick Italian church looks a little uncomfortable in its setting. Look at it from the other side of the road however, and its glorious Neo-Gothic exterior, complete with Florentine tower is quite stunning. The church is owned by the Italian government.
Italian Church (Chiesa Italiana/Biserica Italian)
Mihai Vod Monastery (Mnstirea Mihai Vod) B-6,
C-6, Piata Unirii, MPiata Unirii. Entirely hidden by blocks, few visitors to - or even residents of - Bucharest are even aware of this churchs existence. It is in fact right in the centre of the city, opposite Unirea Shopping Centre, behind the Raifeissen bank on the corner of B-dul Corneliu Coposu and B-dul I. C. Bratianu. Founded in 1774 the small church boasts two exterior frescoes as well as a richly ornamental interior, complete with golden altar. One of the churchs wooden icons dates from 1711 and was formerly housed in the Sarindar Monastery (situated where the Cercul Militar is today).
New St. Johns Church (Biserica Sfantul Ioan Nou)
Titan/Alexandru Ion Cuza Park Str. Liviu Rebreanu,
Str. Sapienei 2, MIzvor. One of the churches that was moved to make way for the Civic Centre, Mihai Vod was originally built in 1601. After a fire in 1761 it was left to rot before thorough rebuilding was carried out from 1827-38. In 1985 it was moved 285 metres east - on rails - and hidden in its present location behind the apartment blocks.
Patriarchal Cathedral (Patriarhia) C-6/7, Str. Dealul

Mitropoliei, MPiata Unirii. Known as Mitropoliei, the Patriarchal Cathedral has been the centrepiece of the Romanian Orthodox faith since the seventeenth century. Built to a design based on the Curtea de Arges, near Pitesti, it has undergone a number of facelifts over the years, but the overwhelming majority
MTitan/Nicolae Grigorescu. The twin Titan and Alexandru Ioan Cuza parks have been given much love of late and are showing the benefit of millions of euros of investment. Whole terraces have been landscaped, lawns laid, playgrounds built and sports pitches placed at every turn. Look out too for the replica Maramures wooden church on the southern side of the park, on Str. Liviu Rebreanu. It was built in 1996 and has become one of the most popular churches in the city: on major religious holidays it is difficult to get close to the place. There are plenty of kiosks serving refreshments, as well as ice cream stands. On summer weekend evenings there is usually something going at the main bandstand: either a band or childrens entertainers.
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What to see
Sightseeing Tours
31 63, tel. (+4) 0724 71 88 48, office@cttours.ro, www.cttours.ro. CT&T provides tailor-made heritage sightseeing tours of Bucharest (from 29), a number of themed tours around Wallachia and Transylvania, and several nationwide tours of varying lengths. Other flexible services and guides in a variety of languages are available on request.
Cultural Travel & Tours, tel./fax (+4) 021 336
Mr. Tripp C-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 3, Et.1, Ap. 3,

tel. (+4) 0745 75 27 53, booking@traveltobucharest. com, www.traveltobucharest.com. Mr. Tripp offers a number of terrific tours, not the least of which is the excellent value four-hour tour of Mogosoaia and Snagov for 49, which includes the tomb of Vlad Tepes (Dracula): notoriously difficult to get to independently. There is also a full-day trip of Sighisoara, Brasov and Sinaia (79), and they will even pick you up from, and drop you off back at, your hotel, for free. All entrance fees also included.
13 Septembrie 1, entrance E4 (Palatul Parlamentului), MIzvor, tel. (+4) 021 318 91 37, www.mnac.ro. Making excellent use of the wide open spaces of the Parliament Palace, this vast gallery displays the work of Romanias finest contemporary artists. There are also works on display by international artists, and regular topical exhibitions. We think its one of the highlights of the citys cultural scene and a visit here has the added bonus of getting you into the Casa Poporului without taking the guided tour. Also has a great terrace cafe. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5.00 lei. Free entrance for children and artists.
National Museum of Contemporary Art (MNAC; Muzeul National de Arta Contemporana) B-6, Calea
TravelMaker Str. Elena Vacarescu 9, bl. XXI-2, tel. (+4) 021 232 03 31, (+4) 0735 52 57 10, fax (+4) 021 232 03 31, reservations@travelmaker.ro, www. bucharestcitytour.com. TravelMaker operates escorted group tours from and around Bucharest, an airport shuttle service and private transfers. Their half-day tour of the city (29) is an excellent introduction to Bucharest. They also provide hotel accommodation all over Romania, city break packages and short trips. The agency offers the only daily group tour (which anyone can join) to Peles Castle and Bran (Draculas) Castle for 69 per person. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
monastery (the foundations and cellars of which remain, and form part of the tour of the palace), the palace was designed by a French team of architects, led by Paul Gottereau. Part of the palace is open to the public, and can be visited on a tour. You will see a number of function rooms, many of which were decorated to the whims of Marie, the English wife of Carols heir, his nephew Crown Prince Ferdinand. You will also be able to view her astonishing art collection. During the construction of the new wing in the 1980s, ruins of the original monastery church were discovered, including part of the original interior frescoes. The church can be visited without joining the full palace tour. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 27.00 lei, students and children 21.00 lei. Admission includes entrance and the compulsory guided tour. Tours are available in Romanian, French and English. Last tour begins at 16:30. tel. (+4) 021 212 89 52, www.geology.ro. Bucharests Geology Museum is one of the citys best. First off, there is the museum building itself to admire. Built in 1906 on the orders of King Carol I to house what was then known as the Royal Romanian Geology Society, the building is a splendid example of Neo-Brancovenesque architecture, and is far more impressive than its red-brick neighbour, the Peasant Museum. The museums permanent collections are impressive in size and - being logically presented - clarity, with a decent number of English captions. The museum is also one of the most active in the city, playing host to varied and never less than fascinating temporary exhibitions.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8.00 lei, students and children 4.00 lei. There is an extra charge for cameras of 30 lei. Guided tours in Romanian 20 lei, English and French 30 lei.
(+4) 021 336 93 90. Often unfairly derided as an outdated (if amusingly so) museum of technology, it should be remembered that the machines, turbines, inventions and gadgets on display here are not meant to be cutting edge. At least not in this day and age. They were all, however, cutting edge when they first appeared, with some of the older steam engines dating back to the beginning of the 19th century. The museum is housed in something of a cherished relic itself: the last remaining pavilion (of many) built to host the 1906 Romania Fair, a showcase of everything great in and about Romania at the time. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 4.00 lei, students, children 2.00 lei.
National Technical Museum (Muzeul Tehnic Dimitrie Leonida) C-7, Str. Gen. Candiano Popescu 2, tel.
Sutu Palace / Museum of Bucharest C-5, B-dul I.C. Bratianu 2, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 68 58, www. muzeulbucurestiului.ro. Much overlooked museum, despite its location in the very centre of the city. The highlight is probably the selection of maps of Bucharest through the ages, while there is also an original log from the Podul Mogosoaia: the forerunner of Calea Victoriei, in the days when the street was paved with logs. The museum is housed in the elegant, Neo-Gothic uu Palace, built from 1833-4 for the wealthy merchant Costache uu. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6 lei, 3 lei children, students and pensioners. Children under seven free. Some temporary exhibitions cost extra.
Sptarului 22, tel. (+4) 021 211 49 79. Theodor Pallady (1871-1953) was an early Cubist artist widely regarded as Romanias most influential 20th century painter. Schooled in Dresden and Paris, Pallady was influenced by the Symbolist environment of the late 19th century, and his paintings before 1916 contain Symbolist motifs, sometimes with echoes of Moreau and Puvis de Chavannes. Alas the small museum that today bears his name has only six of his paintings. The museums saving grace is the house in which it is hosted. Originally called the Casa Melik, it was built around 1750 by the rich Armenian Hagi Kevork Nazaretoglu.Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5.00 lei, students and children 2.50 lei. Muzeul Zambaccian 21A, tel. (+4) 021 230 19 20, www. mnar.arts.ro. A not-to-be-missed chance to see the large collection belonging to the long deceased Armenian businessman Krikor Zambaccian (1889-1962; youll see the requisite portraits) that includes the only Cezanne in Romania, as well as the best of Romanian painters Nicolae Grigorescu, Ioan Andreescu, tefan Luchian, Gheorghe Petracu, Nicolae Tonitza,Theodor Pallady, Horia Damian, and a smaller yet notable group of sculptures by Dimitrie Paciurea, Ion Jalea and Constantin Brncui. It really is a thorough look at modern Romanian art. There are also 19 paintings by French artists, including the only Cezanne in Romania (Portrait of a Little Girl). Q Open 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 7 lei, children, students 3.50 lei.
Theodor Pallady Museum (Casa Melik) D-5, Str.
Geology Museum B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 2, MPiata Victoriei,
Zambaccian Museum (Muzeul Zambaccian) B-3, Str.
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OLD TOWN
total area of the city flattened to make way for Bulevardul Unirii and Casa Poporului. That anything survives at all is little short of a miracle. While we at Bucharest In Your Pocket tend to call the area Old Town, many will know it better as Lipscani, with most locals calling it the Centru Vechi (Old Centre). The area is historic in the main because this is where Bucharest was founded. Kind of. According to legend, Bucur the Shepherd founded the city in the 1300s, when he built a church somewhere on the western bank of the Dmbovia river: nobody is sure exactly where this church was (or even if it actually existed). What we do know is that by the first reign of Vlad epe (1459-1462) there was a palace and court (the Palatul Curtea Veche) in the area we today call Old Town, and that the city grew quickly around the palace. By the middle of the 17th century the area was Bucharests merchant district, which it to all intents and purposes remained until the end of World War II, when many of the rightful owners of the houses and businesses which lined the areas streets were arrested by the communist authorities, and their property confiscated and left to rot. The entire area - viewed as being far too bourgeois for communist tastes - was then neglected for decades, with many of the empty buildings being occupied over the years (legally or otherwise) by Gypsies. Many of these Gypsies remain today, and add real character and colour to the area.
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Old Towns Sights

While much of Bucharest has changed beyond recognition over the past two decades, nothing compares to the recent transformation of Old Town/Lipscani, which over the past three years or so has turned what was very much a no-go area with almost nothing to offer into the Romanian capitals liveliest entertainment district. The area is still something of a work in progress, but its a rewarding place to explore, one of the few areas of the capital that is. You will certainly not want for things to do, to see, or for places to eat, drink and dance.
Old Town: A Brief History
Old Town refers to the area of Bucharest described by the Dambovita river to the south, Calea Victoriei to the west, Bulevardul Brtianu to the east and Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta to the north. It is more or less all thats left of preWorld War II Bucharest. What the war didnt destroy (and it destroyed a fair bit: allied bombing was fierce during the early part of 1944) communism did, most notably in the form of the grandiose Civic Centre project that saw almost a fifth of the
The best place to start any exploration of Old Town is at Universitate (C-5), at the twin semi-circular buildings originally built in 1906 to serve as the headquarters of Romanias largest insurance company. In front of them are four statues, of Gheorghe Lazar (founder, in 1818, of the first Romanian school in Bucharest), Ion Heliade Radulescu (a founding member of the Romanian Academy), Mihai Voievod Viteazul (the first person to unite the three Romanian provinces, in 1600) and Spiru Haret (a mathematician, astronomer and politician who as education minister in the 1880s and 1890s created the foundations of the modern Romanian education system). Opposite is the university building itself, constructed over a twelve year period from 1857 to 1869 at the behest of Alexandru Ioan Cuza, at the time Prince of Romania. It originally housed three faculties (Law, Humanities and Science), but today houses just the Faculty of Letters and Languages, as well as the universitys administrative departments. The central corp of the building was entirely rebuilt in the late 1940s after it was destroyed during heavy allied bombing in 1944. Though rebuilt as an exact replica of the original, many sculptures and basreliefs by Carol Storck were deemed irreplaceable and lost forever.
From this rather drab square its rather a delight to head into Old Town proper, especially given that the first sight which will probably grab your attention (it will be difficult to miss it) is the beautiful, colourful St. Nicholas (Students) Church. It is known colloquially as the Russian Church. Built in 1905-09 with a 600,000 gold rouble donation from Tsar Alexander II, this orthodox church is topped with seven typically Russian onion domes and crowned with an orthodox cross. The wooden, gold-gilded iconostasis (catapeteasm) is allegedly a copy of the altar in Arhangelsk Cathedral, in Moscows Kremlin.
Old Town Shops

Souvenir Shop C-6, Str. Blnari 5, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 310 32 25, (+4) 0723 655 584, www. souvenir-shop.com.ro. Everything you would want from a decent souvenir shop - with both Romania and Bucharest branded gifts available - and more besides. We came across the best Dracula T-Shirts weve seen so far here, complete with the slogan: Send more tourists, the last ones tasted great. We bought two. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Also at C-5 Str. Smardan 13, tel. (+4) 0722 322 540, Open 09:00-21:00.
Thomas Antiques C-6, Str. Covaci 19, MPiata Uni-
rii, tel. (+4) 0752 44 08 18, www.thomas-antiques. ro. By common consent the best antique shop in the city. Stocks everything from furniture and paintings to clocks and decorations, with new pieces being added all the time. Upstairs you can even drink coffee, beer or cocktails in the bar: yep, sit and drink coffee on an antique chair and picture yourself doing the same at home. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:45. Closed Sun.
On your right as you exit the church - at the end of the street - is the Neo-Gothic uu Palace, home of the Museum of the History of Bucharest (Muzeul de Istorie al Municipiului Bucureti; Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6.00 lei, students and children 3.00 lei). The palace was built from 1833-4 for the wealthy merchant Costache uu. Old postcards and costumes depict life in the Romanian capital in the late 18th and early 19th centuries (for more on the museum see page 72). Retrace your steps past the Russian Church and you will come to the Czech Cultural Centre (Ceske Centrum), a lively hive of cultural activity which has regular film screenings and exhibitions. Carry on to the far end of Str. Ion Ghica and you will see in front of you the unmistakably Neo-Classical exterior of the National Bank of Romania (BNR). It stands on the site of one of the most famous buildings in Romania: the Hanul Serban Voda, which from 1678 until 1883 was the home of various things, from a pub, to an inn to a dormitory for a nearby girls school. After two fires gutted the building however, the land was levelled and in 1883 work began on the BNR, completed to the designs of French architects Cassien Bernard and Albert Galleron in 1885. The building boasts a facade with Corinthian columns, and an enormous central banking hall. The passing of time has seen the building become rather hemmed in, but it remains a classic worthy of admiration. On the banks far side (on Str. Lipscani) look out for the remains of another 17th century inn: visible below street level through hardened glass. Str. Lipscani gets its name from the large number of traders who, in the 18th century, sold wares here brought from Leipzig, which at the time was one of the largest trading posts in Europe. As Str. Lipscani was the main commercial street in the Old Town, it over time lent its name to the whole area. Ironically - its name and history aside - modern Str. Lipscani has little to recommend it, although it does have some exceptional bars, pubs and clubs, and a theatre. It
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also has some hidden treasure: if you walk through the little alley opposite Str. Selari (an alley now packed with cafes and bars) you will come to Str. Blanari, home to the St. Nicolas Church. The church was built in the 1880s as a private chapel for Romanias first royal couple: Note that the king and queen still have special seats on the left and right of the churchs 18th century icon kept for them should they ever return. The icon itself is said by churchgoers to have magical healing powers. Back on Str. Lipscani, the listed, historical monument Hanul cu Tei is a wonderful courtyard (once part of a large inn) which today houses art galleries, antique shops, second-hand book shops, gift and souvenir shops, studios and portrait artists, as well as a lively and bar/restaurant and beerhall. Head next for Str. Stavropoleos , named for the eponymous church found along its length ( Biserica Stavropoleos; Open 08:30 - 18:00. Services (in Romanian) on Sunday at 09:30, 10:30). The church was built in 1724 at the insistence of a Greek monk, Ioanikie Stratonikeas. It is characterized by its beautiful stone and wood carvings, of which the finest are on the main doors. The courtyard outside (beautiful on a sunny afternoon) has a curious collection of tombstones dating from the 18th century, and you might often see skilled craftsmen working on restoring them. For a beer, coffee, bite to eat or simple jaw dropping experience (the interior is astonishing) head for Caru cu Bere, a beer hall and restaurant dating from 1875. The facade of the building is currently being renovated. Church fans might also want to venture out on to Calea Victoriei. A few steps to the right is the Zlatari Church (Biserica Zlatari ) built in the 19th century on the site of an earlier church and featuring interior frescoes by Gheorghe Tatarescu. They were painted from 1853-6. The ornate building on the other side of the road is the headquarters of CEC, the national savings bank, while the Neo-Classical giant facing it is the National History Museum, now of course boasting a bizarre statue of Emperor Traian on its steps. On the far side of the museum is Str. Franceza, another Old Town street now blessed with more restaurants, cafes, bars and such like than you could wish for. About half way along look out for the Sf. Dumitru Church: Sf. Dumitru is the patron saint of Bucharest. On the other side of the church (which is currently being renovated) is Bucharests comedy theatre. The busiest street in the Lipscani area is Str. Smardan, home today to any number of bars, pubs, cafes and restaurants. History buffs might like to know that in January 1859 at No. 42 (then the Hotel Concordia), Wallachian deputies elected Alexandru Ioan Cuza as their Prince. As Moldavian deputies had already done likewise a week earlier, the election that took place here created the first unified Romanian state since Mihai Bravus short-lived reign of 1600. At the bottom of Str. Smardan turn
left in order reach the birthplace of Bucharest, the Old Court Palace and Church (Palatul i Biserica Curtea Veche; Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon). The Old Court, first built on this site in the second part of the 15th century by Vlad epe, was considerably extended during the 16th century, by Mircea Ciobanul, and again a century later, this time at the hand of Constantin Brancoveanu, who added a splendid voievodal palace, decorated with marble and icons. The palace was by and large destroyed by a series of fires in the 19th century however, and subsequently neglected. Much of what remains today was uncovered during archaeological digs that took place from 1967-72, when the palace ruins were first opened as a museum. There are fragments of the original 15th century walls, as well as remnants of the voievodal palace throne room, in which most of the relics found on the site are exhibited. Next door to the palace is the Old Court Church, the oldest in Bucharest, dating from 1545. It was enlarged in 1715, during the reign of tefan Cantacuzino, and the frescoes inside, painted by maestros Constantin Lecca and Miu Papa, were added in 1847. The churchs exterior was recently renovated, and it looks better than ever. Opposite is the Hanul lui Manuc. Built in 1808 by an Armenian merchant, it was bought and sold many times throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries before being nationalised in 1949. It remained state property until 2006, when Constantin erban Cantacuzino the heir of its last private owner won an epic legal battle (which had lasted the best part of ten years) to recover ownership. Closed a year later ahead of renovation, part of the inn (the restaurant/bar, courtyard and some function rooms) was finally reopened in 2011. The inns hotel (the Dacia) remains closed but is poised to reopen soon.
The Artist Restaurant C-6, Str. Nicolae Tonitza 13,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0728 31 88 71, www.theartist. ro. Food as art: a first for Bucharest and a first for Romania. The work of a young Dutch chef, this amazing restaurant is set to be a massive hit with the citys foodies, longing for something a bit different. The menu changes with the seasons, and the poached turbot is probably our pick of the current menu, alongside the rack of New Zealand lamb and amazingly refreshing cucumber sorbet. The restaurant offers a tasting menu for those who want to try all the main courses currently being served. In keeping with the food the restaurant itself is contemporary and upmarket, a mix of the bright and the simple, chic without ever going over the top. Prices reflect the amazing quality. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. . PW
in this part of the world, who also came up with the concept for Energiea, Atelier Mecanic and La Bonne Bouche (to which it bears a passing resemblance). The food is worthy of the surroundings: the onion soup with Gruyere is amazing, the New Zealand lamb chops tender, and the mussels fresh. Prices are reasonable given the quality, although if you hit the oysters and champagne of course the bill will be high! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon 18:30 - 24:00. . PBSW
Old Town Restaurants

While probably famed more for its nightlife than its food, the Old Town area of Bucharest is in fact home to some superb places to eat: both high end, fine-dining establishments as well as kebabs and take-aways.
Food & Drink

MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 03, www.embassyhanulcutei.ro. Making very good use of the courtyard of Hanul cu Tei, always one of our favourite parts of Lipscani, Embassy is a terrace (in summer) and indoor lounge which serves food and drink to an older, wiser and simply nicer crowd than many other places we could mention in Old Town. Good bistro food, decent cocktails and reasonable prices. For those in the know, this is the sister establishment of the original Embassy on Piata Lahovari. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. Also at (C-4) P-ta Lahovari 8, Open 11:30-03:00. . PBSW
Embassy Hanul cu Tei C-6, Str. Lipscani 63-65,
Chocolat C-5, Calea Victoriei 12A, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 03 41 75, www.chocolat.com.ro. Hard to pin this place down. Is it a cafe serving chocolate, or a chocolate shop serving a little coffee? In fact, it is neither. It is a brilliant restaurant serving delicious, well priced light meals (soups, pasta, salad) of a French and Italian bent. There is chocolate of course - loads of it - as well as more kinds of gourmet bread than we could possibly list. Find it next to Caru cu Bere. QOpen 08:30 - 23:30. Also at (B-3) Str. Radu Beller 13, tel. (+4) 021 230 23 83. . PSW
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0731 24 78 76, www.labonnebouche.ro. The best little bistro to open in these parts for many a year. Does what it does - simple French bistro food - better than anywhere else in the city. Try the sublime onion soup, calves liver with sage and garlic mash and the lemon meringue pie. Look for the chefs specials too. An open kitchen is always a good sign, and we love the variety of reading material in the toilets. Just a brilliantly simple place. Note that they accept Amex cards: not everywhere does in Bucharest. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30, Mon 18:00 - 23:30. . PEBSW
La Bonne Bouche C-6, Str. Franceza 30, MPiata
Fine Dining
Mulanruj Dining Theatre & Club C-6, Str. Selari
9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 85, www. bordellos.ro. Dinner and dance. Upstairs at Bordellos is the Mulanruj Dining Theatre, featuring regular cabaret nights, stand-up comedy and live music to theme parties and such like. There is a vast range of dining options, and the food which accompanies your live entertainment is very good. You can find details about whats happening from Bordellos. QOpen 19:00 - 24:00. Closed August. Reopens September 6th. . PEW
French
Bon C-6, Str. Smardan 33, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 367 21 98/(+4) 0721 37 56 22, www.bonrestaurant.ro. Fabulous food in a wonderful setting, created using antique doors and window frames, the work of the designer du jour bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Negresco C-6, Str. Stavropoleos 3, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 0720 66 77 66, info@negresco.ro, www.negresco. ro. This place is classically French, serving a terrific onion
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Romanian Restaurants in Old Town
Caru cu Bere C-6, Str. Stavropoleos 5, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 75 60, www.carucubere.ro. Wonderful interiors - painted ceilings, ornate woodwork - make this place an attraction in itself, but do not leave without trying some food. The breakfast is worth getting up early for, the sarmale with mamaliga terrific, and the baked apple a simple, tasty treat. They even serve their own rather good beer. The service is usually good (now: it never used to be; back in the 1980s and 1990s it was infamously bad) and there is a terrace in summer. We should also mention the touristy but nevertheless enjoyable folklore show which takes place most evenings. Note that the buildings facade is currently being renovated. The restaurant and terrace are open as usual. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. . PJESW soup, two fabulous duck dishes (the duck breast with fennel and coriander is amazing), fresh pate, snails and a super apple tart with vanilla sauce to finish. There is a wide range of wines (many available by the glass) and it is all served in a well-restored, classy Bucharest house dating from the 1890s. Downstairs is a bar perfect for private parties or retiring to after eating. QOpen 12:00 - 24:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PBSW
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Romanian Beer
Romania has a long, proud history of brewing good beer, and while today there are just 20 breweries in the country (there were more than 120 breweries in 1989), such statistics do not tell the whole story of beer in Romania, which is far from being a sorry one. With large amounts of investment from big foreign brewers the countrys best known beers have been saved from extinction and improved, and in a number of cases new brews launched: the current trend for unfiltered and lemon beers (see below) is one such example. Fortunately for the visitor, improvements in quality have not increased prices: Romania remains home to one of the cheapest pints of beer in Europe. (We have long suggested that the countrys marketing people use the fact in their international campaigns!) The best known local brands of beer are probably Ursus, Ciuc and Timisoreana. Ursus has been brewed since the 1870s, and if you ask ten Romanians what the national beer is, it is likely that at least nine will respond Ursus. Both Ursus and Timisoreana (brewed since 1718) are now owned by SAB Miller, which also produces the smaller brands Ciucas, Azuga and Stejar. Ciuc (along with Silva) is owned by Heineken, while Carlsbergs locally brewed Tuborg is also ubiquitous and very popular. Other notable beers include Interbrews Bergenbier. Unfiltered wheat beers (bere nefiltrata) are very popular in Romania, the best probably being Ciucs, though you should also keep a look out for Paulaners white beer, found on tap in a number of Bucharest bars and pubs. Also worth trying is the dark, bitter Ursus Black, a very different beer to most local brews. Silvas Strong Dark is similar and equally good. During the summer, look out for lower alcohol radler or lemon beers. Most of the local breweries produce one. A few venues in Bucharest have microbreweries, producing their own beer, or at least serve their own bespoke brew made elsewhere: Caru cu bere, Oktoberfest and Biutiful are three such places. Imported beers are popular amongst young, wealthy urbanites, and you should never have too much trouble finding the major international brands: Heineken, Carlsberg, Peroni, Leffe, Hoegaarden and Stella Artois are all popular in Romania. And while imported beer is usually a couple of lei more expensive than the local stuff, no beer in Romania is likely to cost more than 10-12 lei, even in a club or trendy bar. A pint (or the local equivalent) of local draught (la halba) beer costs from 7-8 lei, often even cheaper. The one exception is Guinness. Found all over the country (it is very popular amongst Romanians, who have taken to it like ducks to water) it is also relatively expensive. Key Romanian words on the beer front include la halba (draught) and la sticla (bottled). Make sure you know what you are ordering: you really wouldnt want to end up with a bottle of Guinness now, would you? In most bars and restaurants the menu lists draught and bottled beers separately.
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Greek
Food & Travel Concept Store C-6, Str. Smardan 7, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0720 80 02 40, www.foodtravel.ro. You can now taste Greece while booking a holiday to... Greece. This bright eatery complete with blue and white chequered tablecloths opposite the National Bank serves simple Greek dishes (including decent-sized salads made with real Greek cheese and some seriously good fresh grilled sardines) for more than reasonable prices. Plenty of meze options, so we recommend just ordering a load of those and tucking in. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. . PVESW
C-6, Str. Nicolae Tonita 6, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 539 53 53, www.mezetaverna.ro. Perhaps the best Greek restaurant in Bucharest. It even looks the part - we love the lampshades made from empty olive oil cans - while the food itself is seriously, seriously good. There is tons of seafood on the gorgeous menu (the fish soup and the prawns with tomatoes and cheese are musts), alongside what is probably the best lamb weve eaten in Bucharest. The Greek chef Georgios is always coming up with tasty daily specials, so ask your waiter whats cooking. Ouzo? Let it flow. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00. . PSW
(+4) 0729 62 62 62, www.citygrill.ro. Dont expect haute cuisine, but do expect big portions of simple Romanian food. We like the carnati de plescoi, tasty smoked sausages made with mutton and pork. Theres a good selection of local beers to choose from too. Recently renovated, the place itself looks better than ever too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. Also at (B-2) B-dul Primaverii 3, tel. (+4) 021 233 98 18 and many other locations. . PJVEBSW
City Grill C-6, Str. Lipscani 12, MUniversitate, tel.
Meze Taverna
Coco Bongo C-6, Str. Covaci 1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0754 02 04 34, www.coco-bongo.ro. Love the name, love the attitude. Looks more like a pub from outside, and in fact it is both pub and restaurant, the kind of place you can eat very well but nobody minds if you just spend all night on the sauce. The food is Italian, is good if a little pricey (some of the dishes, anyway). The pizzas are good and cheap though, and the service good, quick and friendly. Worth a look. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. . PEBSW Il Peccato C-6, Str. Franceza 30, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 310 90 13, www.ilpeccato.ro. It shouldnt take too long to find this place: it is the restaurant with a motorbike in a glass display box parked outside. Really. Inside it is a well-decorated and comfortable venue, worthy of your time, serving standard Italian food of the pizza, pasta variety, Has an excellent selection of Italian wines and is a great place to sit and enjoy a decent bottle or two. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PVSW Malagamba C-6, Str. Mandinesti (Sf. Dumitru) 2, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 33 89, www.malagamba.ro. What a name, what a place. An Italian (with a twist) restaurant of the old school (in that the food is what counts first and foremost), this Irish-owned eatery next to the Comedy Theatre is terrific. Wanting to stand out from the crowd the team behind it have gone to great lengths to do so, coming up with all sorts of treats, such the as lime and basil sorbet: already a legend amongst Bucharest foodies. Regular kids events at the weekend. Sergiu Malagamba by the way was a Romanian musician, composer and director who frequented these parts in the 1930s and 40s. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. . PTBSW tel. (+4) 0733 11 04 64, www.trattoriabuongiorno.ro. We have always loved T rattoria Buongiorno, and have quickly become big fans of its most recent location in the Old Town. Decent Italian food (there is a small but good selection of fish dishes which are well worth looking out for). and one of the biggest and busiest terraces in Bucharest (at the right time of year) make it a seriously good eat and watch the world go by type place. (And at weekends, it can feel like the whole city is going by). QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. Also at (B-2) Str. Herstru 2; (B-4) B-dul Lascar Cartagiu 56; Baneasa Shopping Center, 1st floor. . PBSW
Crama Domneasca C-6, Str. Selari 13-15, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0733 15 98 46, www.cramadomneasca.com. Right in the heart of Bucharests historic centre, this is Romanian food of indeed historic proportions. You can expect right royal portions of all your Romanian favourites, from spare ribs and mutton to tender pork steaks. The home baked bread is always served warm (if it is not, send it back) and the wine flows copiously as evenings get longer and longer. Its the kind of place where you will be discretely but contentedly loosening your belt before the night is done. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PJVEBSW
Hungarian
St. George C-6, Str. Francez 44, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 317 10 87, www.stgeorge.ro. This has long been one of our favourite restaurants, a place that had the vision to open up a good year or two before Old Town became fashionable. The food is excellent, authentic Hungarian cuisine, featuring a wealth great dishes - try the mutton stew with dumplings - and a wine list that offers the very best Hungarys vineyards have to offer. Cracking open a bottle of Tokaji Aszu is the perfect way to end an evening here. Live music is provided by a happy, table wandering troupe every night. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. . PEBSW
Lacrimi si Sfinti C-6, Str. Sepcari 16, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0372 77 39 99, www.lacrimisisfinti. com. Romanian poet, revolutionary and raconteur Mircea Dinescus latest culinary adventure is this classy place in the Old Town. As much a showcase for the (very good) wines Dinescu produces on his country estate as anything else, the food is good: a selection of traditional Romanian dishes with a big focus on game. The prices are decent enough and though a little spartanly furnished and decorated the ambience is good: you want to stay way after you have finished your meal. QOpen 12:30 - 02:00, Mon 18:00 - 02:00. . PJEBSW
Italian
0721 76 55 55, www.restaurant-bellini.ro. Packed out with the pre-cinema crowd heading over to Cinema Pro for the latest premiere, Bellini has a great location and - according to just about anybody you ask - makes the best pizza in Bucharest. The non-pizza menu is merely good. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PBSW
Bellini C-5, Str. Ion Ghica 2, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
Trattoria Buongiorno C-6, Str. Franceza 52, MPiata Unirii,
Manuc Bistro C-6, Str. Franceza 62, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 313 14 11, www.hanulluimanuc.ro. Bucharests oldest inn (and one of only two surviving 19th century caravanserai in Europe - the other is in Albania). Nowhere else in the city can rival the setting, and fortunately the food is more than a match for the surroundings. Sit in the gorgeous courtyard (when the weather allows, of course) and enjoy a beer or good Romanian food: dont miss the mici, the local speciality, but there is much more besides. We rather liked the baked duck served with stewed cabbage, and the mixed grill for two people is good value. The orange and chocolate cake is the pick of the desserts. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. . PJEBSW Bucharest In Your Pocket
Bel Mondo C-6, Str. Covaci 6, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0725 96 66 36/(+4) 0728 94 10 26, belmondo.restaurant@yahoo.ro, www.restaurantbelmondo.ro. A good Italian restaurant, one of the better ones in the Old Town, which offers decent food - we recommend the fresh tomato soup with mozarella - at prices that are more than reasonable. The pizzas are excellent (and huge) and the space itself is big, open, light and blessed with sensationally high ceilings. Easily the best occupant of the old Amsterdam Cafe location since Amsterdam itself. Big terrace too as long as the weather is good. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PBSW bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Vecchio 1812 C-6, Str. Covaci 16, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 031 430 95 77, www.vecchio.ro. We love it. Making fantastic use of a gorgeous old building on Strada Covaci, this Italian restaurant looks and feels like the kind of place you want spend all evening in. The food is superior Italian, as you would expect from one of the citys best chefs, and bucharest.inyourpocket.com
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while prices are not cheap they certainly reflect quality. The jacket potatoes in a salt crust are one of the best (and most original) starters we have ever tasted in Bucharest. Go there. QOpen 12:00 - 24:30. . PBSW
Lebanese
Manuc Levantin
C-6, Str. Franceza 62, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0769 07 58 44/(+4) 021 313 14 11, cafemanuc@hanulluimanuc. ro, www.hanulluimanuc.ro. Good Lebanese food, upstairs at Hanul lui Manuc, the citys last surviving caravanserai. There is a huge range of dishes to choose from, and its difficult to go wrong: we ordered a load of food, and loved it all, being especially impressed by the lahme bahjeen (minced beef and lamb in pitta bread), the kafta kebab and the marinated lamb cutlets. Well priced too. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. . PBSW
locations around. Check out the nice little touches such as high quality bread and olives, the high ceilings and airy atmosphere, then order some fine, light Californian-inspired cuisine. Its a winner from start to finish.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. . PBSW
Mexican / Tex Mex

C-6, Str. Selari 24, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0758 66 05 00, www.labonita.ro. Not the worlds greatest Tex-Mex food, but in a city which has very few Mexican restaurants worth your time, this place should be on your list if you are looking for something a bit spicy. It is actually a five-level extravaganza of a venue, with food on the ground and first floors, drinks on the second and a terrace up on the top. Down in the basement there is a club, complete with karaoke every night. A place about which you could say it has something for everybody. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. . PEBSW
La Bonita
Turkish
Divan C-6, Str. Franceza 46-48, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
(+4) 021 317 77 88, www.restaurantsindbad.ro. New Lebanese restaurant in Old Town serving what might just be the best lentil soup in Bucharest. Fabulous fresh bread too (made on site) and a decent range of mutton dishes as main courses. Theres both an exterior and interior terrace, and the decor is vaguely Middle Eastern without over-doing it. We liked the comfy chairs. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. . PVBSW
Sindbad C-6, Str. Lipscani 19, MUniversitate, tel.
Swiss
Mica Elvetie St. Moritz C-6, Str. Franceza 60, MPiata
Mediterranean
Charme C-6, Str. Smardan 12, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0737 50 38 90, www.charme.ro. Some of the finest food in Old Town, served in one of the most elegant and classiest
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 224 50 17, info@micaelvetie.ro, www.micaelvetie.ro. In a superb new setting in a lovingly renovated building on the edge of Old Town the Bucharest cooking legend Jakob Hausmann is still delivering the goods more than a decade after opening his first restaurant. The menu changes regularly, with a wide variety of daily specials, all based around the seasons freshly available ingredients. If you are a foodie who cares about subtle, simple flavours you are going to love this place. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. . PBW
021 312 30 34, www.thedivan.ro. From the Middle Eastern atmosphere and superb decor to the great service, Divan is a lesson in creating a good restaurant. The well-priced food is good value Turkish/Middle Eastern, and its very good indeed. They will even cook you a whole lamb if you give them 24 hours notice. We opted for the less Sultan-like beef and lamb kebabs. Very good they were too. After your meal you can enjoy a smoke on a hookah pipe: theres a huge range of flavours to choose from. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. . PBSW
Old Town Cafes

Cafe Manuc C-6, Str. Franceza 62, MP-ta Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0769 07 58 44, www.hanulluimanuc.ro. M agnificent. Hanul lui Manuc is one of the best places in the city to sit and enjoy either coffee - and there is a huge range - or cocktails (both with and without alcohol). They also serve a fantastic jug of lemonade, loaded with honey. Sit outside in the courtyard of this amazing building - a 19th century inn which in many ways has remained unchanged for over a century - and remember that this place itself is a living piece of the citys history. Also serves very good Romanian food (see the review for Manuc Bistro in the Romanian restaurants section) as well as decent Lebanese at Levantin. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PBSW
C-5, Str. Toma Caragiu 3, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 97 40, www.giocafe.ro. Something of a Bucharest legend now, this is a perennially popular cafe that hosts business types in the mornings, who come here to talk big numbers over coffee and pastries, giving way as the day moves on to a stylish, hip clientele that comes for the good light meals - pasta, soups and the like - and a cracking list of cocktails. There is another big, vibrant Gio Cafe on P-ta Alba Iulia. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. Also at (E-6) B-dul Burebista 2, tel. (+4) 0730 03 07 64, Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PBSW
Gio Cafe
Godot Cafe Teatru C-6, Str. Blanari 14, tel. (+4) 021 316 16 82, www.godotcafeteatru.ro. Cafe, bistro and theatre on Strada Blanari in the Old Town. There are performances every day (with matinees at weekends) of all sorts of plays, from Shakespeare to Neil Simon and contemporary Romanian productions, and feature plenty of top local acting talent. Even actors used to bigger stages make a habit of performing here in the uniquely intimate auditorium. Theres some good simple food too, such as pasta, salads, omelettes: that kind of thing. A highly recommendable experience. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. Box office open daily 12:00-19:00. PBW
C-6, Str. Franceza 62, MP-ta Unirii, tel. (+4) 0769 07 58 44/(+4) 021 313 14 11, www.hanulluimanuc.ro. The courtyard at the Hanul lui Manuc is without question one of the most amazing places to eat and drink in Bucharest, especially the tables on the balconies overlooking the main part of the courtyard. Whats more, you can choose from the menus of any of the Hans restaurants and cafes. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. BSW
French Bakery C-6, Str. Smardan 13, MUniversitate,

tel. (+4) 021 316 10 27, www.frenchbakery.ro. Bucharests smartest chain of bakeries comes to Old Town, complete with its fine selection of sandwiches, delicious tarts and cakes, great coffee and a super terrace outside on the sexiest part of Old Town. Could be just about the best place in Bucharest for coffee, regardless of the time of day. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00. PBSW
Gradina Hanului Manuc
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tate, tel. (+4) 031 107 63 71, www.vangogh.ro. Amazing how quickly this place became the default Bucharest meet you there venue. Its genius is that its ideal at every time of day: morning coffee or breakfast sat in front of one of the long windows, a business lunch at one of the wooden tables, a meal and a late night at the bar or out on the terrace. The food is good - simple and very reasonably priced - and this Dutch owned, friendly cafe is a winner: you will go back more than once. They now do a great brunch, on Saturday and Sunday from 10:00-16:00. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00, Fri 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Non-smoking lounge open 17:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 -24:00. PBSW
Grand Cafe Van Gogh C-6, Str. Smardan 9, MUniversi-
the beer they also have the appropriate glass in which to serve it: great attention to details. Tiny, with only a few places to sit, its worth reserving if you want to be sure of a seat. Note: there is now a much bigger Beer OClock on Strada Gabroveni further down in Old Town.QOpen 16:00 - 02:00. Also at (C-6) Str. Gabroveni 4. Open 17:00 - 02:00. PVBSW
Iguana Cafe C-6, Str. Blanari 12, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 021 310 57 53, www.cafeiguana.ro. A bright, modern cafe in Bucharests Old Town. As new as a shiny button expect some of the citys best home-made lemonade - at a decent prize, we hasten to add - as well as a raft of other drinks. Good company usually guaranteed. All in all, a winner. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. PBSW tel. (+4) 021 310 60 52/(+4) 0720 13 29 94, office@ lesbourgeois.ro, www.lesbourgeois.ro. A veritable Strada Smardan legend of a venue, whose longevity is a credit to its management who keep rethinking and reinventing the menu and making sure there is always good reason to come and eat, drink or just have one of over 30 (we counted) coffees here. Foodwise, there is plenty to choose from: so much in fact that making individual recommendations is pointless. Everyone will find something they like. Top desserts, too. Get in. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. PBSW lacrosse), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 311 29 69/ www.valea-regilor.ro. Thick Turkish coffee served in one of Calea Victorieis grand old passages. Alongside the coffee and cakes - sweet and sickly but irresistible - you can also get your hands on a Nargile, those Turkish water pipes that offer an allegedly much healthier way to smoke tobacco. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. NBSW
Beraria Hanul Cu Tei C-6, Str. Lipscani 63-65, tel. (+4) 0727 57 13 71, www.berariahanulcutei.ro. With its big long bar, lively atmosphere and regular crowd of beer drinkers out for a good time and not to pose, it would be easy to nominate this place as the best pub in the Old Town. Add in a brilliant range of sausages (weisswurst, bratwurst) and it starts to get very difficult not to call this the best pub in Old Town. And when we tell you there is live music from a resident band at the weekends you will know you need to go there immediately. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 05:00. PEBSW
Late Night Food

Chicken Staff C-6, Str. Smardan 31, MPiata Unirii. KFC on the ground floor of Unirea closes at 23:00, so instead get yourself here for your late night/early morning fried chicken fix. Q Open 11:00 - 05:00.
tel. (+4) 021 315 55 40, lipscani@dristorkebap. com, www.dristorkebap.ro. Legendary chain of kebab shops, which began in Dristor but has now spread city wide, even in to Old Town. Q Open 24 hrs. Also at B-dul Camil Ressu 1, Calea Vacaresti 391, B-dul Marasesti 42 and B-dul Timisoara 26.
Les Bourgeois C-6, Str. Smardan 20, MPiata Unirii,
Dristor Kebap C-6, Str. Franceza 17, MPiata Unirii,
Valea Regilor B-4, Calea Victoriei 16-20 (Pasajul Vil-
Gyros Thessaloniki C-6, Str. Gabroveni 2, MPiata
Unirii. In our opinion, this place serves the best chicken kebab in Bucharest. Its a regular late-night haunt of ours and the queues speak for themselves. Alongside the kebabs there are also salads, lamb dishes and sweets. Cheap too: its a winner. Q Open 24hrs.
McDonalds C-6, P-ta Unirii 1 (Unirea Shopping Centre), MPiata Unirii, www.mcdonalds.ro. The good news is McDonalds has finally brought breakfast to Romania, so that much sought-after Sausage and Egg McMuffin can now be yours at most Bucharest McDonalds outlets.Q Open 07:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-01:00. McDrive at (A-4) Str. Dr. Felix 8-10, (E-6) Sos. Mihai Bravu 307, Sos. Pierre de Coubertine 3-5, (C-3) Str. Barbu Vacarescu 146-158 and Str. Brasov 23A all open 24hrs.
Old Town Bars

Beer OClock C-6, Pasajul Vilacrosse, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0767 23 33 35, www.beeroclock.ro. This little pub in Pasajul Villacrosse has probably the biggest selection bottled beers in the city: so it is aptly named. With brews from all over the world you could drink a different beer every night for a month and not try the same one twice. Whats more, besides Bucharest In Your Pocket
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0722 10 01 93, www.interbelic.ro. A cosy little speakeasy in a well-hidden location (find it in the alleyway which links Str. Blanari to Str. Lipscani) and the perfect place to conduct all sorts of secret business, affairs and anything else that springs to mind. Drinks and coffees are reasonably priced, the staff are friendly and its worth checking out: if only to show off to someone just how well you know Bucharest and its backstreets. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 05:00. PNBW
old town
Interbelic C-6, Str. Selari 1, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
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Klein Bar & Bistro
C-6, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro. Bar and bistro inside the Rembrandt hotel. Its a great place to enjoy a drink with friends, and the location at the edge of Bucharests newly-formed pedestrian zone makes it a favourite for those looking for something just a little more restful. Good bistro food too, and like the hotel itself, everything comes at very reasonable prices. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 23:00. PGW
Laboratorul de Cocktailuri C-6, Str. Stavropoleos 8,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 52 80 40. A cocktail bar (there is beer too, of course, on tap, as well as hundreds of teas) where everything has been thought out to the minutest detail. The name means Cocktail Factory, so you get your Tom Collins or Mojito or whatever takes your fancy in a conical flask, while the bar itself looks like an old pharmacy. Unusually, they have even invested in decent bar stools. Trendy without overdoing it. Commendable. QOpen 17:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PNW
C-6, Str. Lipscani 38, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 61 62 98. The name means Bicycle, and it will not take you long to work out why: the place is by and large furnished and decorated with parts of old bicycles. On the second floor of a Lipscani house the place boasts a good long bar, plenty of stools (some of which incorporate old bike seats) and a couple of leather sofas for those who want something a bit more comfortable. Coffee by day and cocktails by night is the order of things, and at the weekend the place has a DJ and quite frankly rocks. Tour de France? Tour de force. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. PBW
Bicicleta
C-6, Str. Lipscani 43, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 367 27 77, www.papiota.ro. Papiota is one of our favourite Bucharest bars. It is at first glance a lot like a certain other bar we will not name (packed with odd chairs, tables and industrial bits and bobs), but without the hipster attitude. Add in the fact that it is a bit bigger than many Old Town bars and that late on a Friday you stand a chance of getting in the door and you have a top place. It also has lots of big windows, the drinks are reasonably well priced (this is Old Town) and the music is clubby without over- (or under-) doing it. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:30. Closed until September PBW (+4) 0726 12 25 52. An Old Town bar has to be a bit different these days to grab our attention: Rehab is just that. Its the kind of place you see anywhere and everywhere, except in Bucharest. Until now. With cushions on wooden steps making impromptu seats and a sofa at the window, its just very different and highly welcome. The drinks menu is done in the style of a medical journal, and offers the usual mix of coffee, tea, cocktails and smoothies. For added quirkiness you get the bill in a sample bottle. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 04:00. PBW
Papiota
Thomas Antiques Bar
C-6, Str. Covaci 19, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0752 44 08 18, www.thomas-antiques.ro. Above the Thomas Antiques shop in Old Town is a cafe, tea house and bar where you can enjoy a hot white chocolate (or something stronger) while discussing the merits of the goods youve been admiring. Theres nothing quite like taking tea on an antique chair you might end up taking home. Regular events too, from string quartets to book launches and the like. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:45. Closed Sun. PBW
Rehab Bar C-6, Str. Gabroveni 19, MPiata Unirii, tel.
Old Town Pubs

Barbero C-6, Str. Lipscani 38, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0767 50 80 80. A Lipscani bar that we liked the moment we first walked in. The whole place is brightly tiled and done in the style of an old barbers shop (as the name might suggest). We love the red lamps hanging down over the (long) bar, designed to look like old hair dryers. Good music, usually provided by a DJ, and well priced drinks. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. PBW
Bordellos C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 85, www.bordellos.ro. There is always something going on here, every night of the week. From quiz nights and live music to the burlesque every Friday night, this is a one-stop shop for great nights out. Theres Heineken, Murphys and Paulaner on tap and Sky Sports on four screens. The food is great, with some rather special tapas, including the ribs which are just about the best weve ever had in Bucharest. At the weekends, head downstairs to the Boudoir, and note that upstairs is the new Mulanruj Dining Theatre, with live cabaret on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights.QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 14:00 06:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. PEBSW Curtea Berarilor C-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 313 75 32, www.curteaberarilor.com. Once upon a time the whole of the Curtea Sticlarilor was given over to artisans - especially glassmakers - from whence the name. Now only a few survive and no less than four bars have opened here. This one has given itself the rather cheeky name Curtea Berarilor (Brewers Courtyard), though there is no brewing done on the site. Instead make do with plenty of on-tap pints, of which the default option is Timisoreana. QOpen 13:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 13:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PBSW
C-6, Str. Covaci 8, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0784 24 60 46. The name (as you might have guessed) means 100 Beers, and thats exactly what they have here: beer, and lots of it, from all over the world. In fact, looking at the menu they have considerably more than 100 beers, and there is more besides: shorts and cocktails for those who dont want beer. Nice long, English-style bar. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PBW
Corks Cozy Bar C-6, Str. Bacani 1, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 021 311 22 65, www.corks.ro. Nice little wine bar tucked away on an Old Town side street. A look at the wine list will be enough to tell you why its popular, offering as it does a vast range of wines from across the world. Almost all of them are available by the glass. The idea behind this place was to create a wine bar where anyone - no matter how little they know about wine - would feel welcome, comfortable and not be intimidated. In that regard, its a total success. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 24:00. PBSW
Entourage Centrul Vechi C-6, Str. Eugen Carada 5-7, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 93 79 72. You will like this place. A nice long bar, proper tall bar stools and even leather armchairs for those who want to chill. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner from one of the best bar menus in Bucharest: you will find something on it you fancy. There must be 100 lamps hanging down from the ceiling: all different. Startlingly brilliant place, refreshingly free of brewery branding too: always a bonus these days. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PBSW Bucharest In Your Pocket
The Bazaar C-6, Str. Covaci 10, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0721 99 99 99, www.thebazaar.ro. Club Tropicana. Its not every day you see a palm tree or two in a Bucharest bar, neither are there too many places in Old Town as big as this: theres upstairs (complete with comfy armchairs), downstairs, and on warm evenings everyone spills out on to the street outside. On one of Old Towns less-crowded streets this is a good alternative to the madness elsewhere. Music is loungesque, supplied by a DJ who knows his onions. Fun and sunshine. QOpen 10:00 - 02:30, Fri 10:00 - 04:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 04:30. PBW bucharest.inyourpocket.com
C-6, Str. Gabroveni 6-8, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0737 29 72 97, www.biutiful.ro. When you walk in, you will see where the name comes from: it is indeed biutiful, an enormous industrial-chic space with a little added glamour (check out the lights and the comfy sofas), creating a rather special atmosphere rather like an upmarket, contemporary central London bar and grill. The food is more than decent - salads, tapas and burgers - with the beef and horseradish sandwich a confirmed winner; The fish and chips wasnt bad either. A must visit for either drinks or food, preferably both. Note that they only take reservations up to 19:00, after that its first come first served. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon 17:00 - 01:00. PBSW
Biutiful
La 100 de Beri
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Unirii, tel. (+4) 0721 31 48 20. Set around a sunken courtyard just off Strada Covaci, Sappho is not - as the name might suggest - a gay bar, instead welcoming everyone to its large terrace (which is great in good weather) and cavernous interior (which has various rooms, all differently themed). Hosts live music and various party nights, and besides the beer and cocktails there is food if youre hungry. QOpen 15:00 - 04:00. PEB
old town
Sappho Pub & Garden C-6, Str. Soarelui 3, MPiata
NEW
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St. Patrick C-6, Str. Smardan 23-25, MPiata Unirii,
OHaras C-6, Str. Franceza 13, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0724 23 95 77. Amazingly, this place has already been around for four years. (Feels like only yesterday that it opened). Expect a more than decent pint of Guinness, live Irish music some evenings and a grand welcome from some fine staff, all of which combine to make this very much the thinking mans Irish pub in Bucharest.QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PENBSW
C-6, Str. Selari 9 -11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0724 33 32 33, www.oktoberfest-pub.ro. What makes this place so special is how very ordinary it is. You will find the crowd more local than foreign - never a bad thing - and ordinary out for a drink and a good time locals at that, not the fitze crowd. The owners try to make something happen every night, whether its football on the television or impromptu drinking competitions. The house Oktoberfest beer is a bargain at 4 lei a glass. Upstairs is Oktoberfest 2, which has a small terrace. The club Octopus is also inside (on the ground floor). Q Open 24hrs. PNBW
tel. (+4) 021 313 03 36, www.stpatrick.ro. Big, well located and quite frankly cracking Irish pub in the Old Town area: it really sets the standard for the many others in the area. Looking every inch just like a proper Irish boozer, its a real pub all right with decent pub grub, Guinness and Kilkenny on tap, and more than efficient staff who ensure you do not have to wait long for a drink. Its an integral part of the Old Town area and has a load of regulars who have quickly made it their home from home. Look out for the St. Patrick Party Room on the other side of the street: a kind of mini-St. Patrick. Quirky and cool. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PBSW
Vintage Pub C-6, Str. Smardan 43, MPiata Unirii, tel.
Oktoberfest
(+4) 0743 79 71 73, www.thevintagepub.ro. Another Smardan drinking den. And its not bad. Staff are incredibly hospitable, and the interior dcor is pub-ish without overdoing it. The Vintage aspect is provided by the hanging of various antiques on the walls. Cheapish drinks, salads, sandwiches and a big terrace (at the right time of year) attract a young crowd. Hosts loads of events. Q Open 09:30 - 05:30. PEBSW
Home Delivery
Fabio Pizza A-3, Str. Barbu Vladoianu 46, tel. (+4) 021 311 71 22/(+4) 021 322 07 22, centrul1@ fabiopizza.ro, www.fabiopizza.ro. Currently our favourite home-delivery pizza company. Great prices, cheerful delivery chaps and terrific pizza (if you choose the thin and crispy base, baza subtire in Romanian). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. VN
311 21 21, www.jerryspizza.ro. Though still delivering good pizza, there is much more to Jerrys than pizza these days. Hot chicken wings, subs and salads, for a start. Friendly delivery boys in our experience: always worth an extra mark. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. Jerrys at Night Open 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 24:00-04:00, tel. (+4) 0722 33 41 41. VS
Old Town Clubs & Discos

0723 20 34 63, www.bastards.ro. Is that really what it is called? Yes: that is really what it is called. In a Lipscani basement, with the walls stripped back to the red brick, this is a cocktail bar and club where the mood is different every night. It could be karaoke, it could be rock night, it could be DJ Andrei Nicolescu spinning his old school electro tunes. Regardless of what is going on you will probably enjoy it. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PENB
Freddo C-6, Str. Smardan 24, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
Bastards C-6, Str. Lipscani 28, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
Old City C-6, Str. Lipscani 45, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0729 37 77 74, www.oldcity-lipscani.ro. Good pub on Lipscani with a huge beer garden out the back. Serves very good cocktails (a sweet as you like mojito went down very well with Mrs. In Your Pocket) and some pub grub that is far better than you would assume. The burger was great: try it with the roast potatoes in fresh rosemary for something a bit different. A big screen shows football and the like. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00. PBW S. A. L. T. C-6, Str. Blanari 21, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0724 33 57 75, saltpub@yahoo.com, www.saltpub.ro. S. A. L. T. stands for Societea de Asigurare a Libertatii T ale (impossible to translate but something along the lines of The Society to Insure your Freedom). So its Pseudsville, Tennessee, as in fact this is little more than a sports bar serving decent salads, pizza and finger food (chicken wings, etc.). If you judge a place by the number of plasma screens it has, then you will like it here. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. PNSW
0722 37 33 36, rezervari@freddo.ro, www.freddo.ro. The biggest, boldest place on Strada Smardan. Smart too: when it started raining we were about to run for cover only for the roof to be extended, keeping us all dry. Impressive. Now get there and enjoy sound cocktails, pizza and decent salads: and note you can enjoy it all at proper, big wooden tables. You might want to reserve at the weekends: this place is damn popular. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. PNBSW
Jerrys D-6, B-dul Octavian Goga 24, tel. (+4) 021
Sankt Petersburg Pub C-6, Str. Gabroveni 55, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 311 89 68, www.sanktpetersburgpub.ro. At the end of a well-marked passageway on Strada Gabroveni is this place, a bright, colourful bar and club that puts on something different every night of the week. Besides the long cocktail list there are also - as you would expect for a Russian-themed placed - no fewer than seven kinds of vodka, and they even serve caviar pancakes. Definitely a first in Bucharest! QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. PESW Bucharest In Your Pocket
Orasul Interzis D-5, Str. Silvestru 3, tel. (+4) 0733 50 07 50/(+4) 0720 99 33 33, rezervari@orasulinterzis.ro, www.orasul-interzis.ro. Home delivery arm of the excellent Chinese restaurant of same name. QOpen 12:30 - 23:00. PSW Restaurant Nan Jing B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu
2-4, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 318 12 85/(+4) 0726 10 34 07, comanda@lachinezesc.ro, www. nanjing.ro. Yes! The Nan Jing now does home delivery. Just head to their website for the full home delivery menu. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLVBSW
Club A C-6, Str. Blnari 14, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 316 16 67, www.cluba.ro. Selling the cheapest beer in the Old Town, this place is a legend. If you want a local, unpretentious, up-for-a-laugh studenty crowd getting down to classic songs that you wont have heard for ages, this is the one place in town you can be guaranteed to find it, every night of the week. Live music on most weekend nights, as well as all sorts of events during the week, from theme nights to theatre. QOpen 10:30 - 05:00, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat 16:00 - 06:00, Sun 16:00 - 04:00. PEBW
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0753 57 82 09, www.finnish.ro. A little more chic and upmarket than most other places in the Old Town, Finnish is a cocktail bar and club which brings a little contemporary Scandinavian design to the Romanian capital. The house drink is of course Finlandia vodka, available in more varieties than you ever thought possible, but there is more to this place than vodka: cocktails, wine, champagne and beer. They even have Guinness on draught. The music - usually provided by a DJ - is as contemporary and as good as the design, the crowd is a trendy one and we defy you not to enjoy yourself here. QOpen 13:30 - 05:00. PBW
La Muse C-6, Str Lipscani 53, MPiata Unirii/Universitate, tel. (+4) 0734 00 02 36, www.lamuse.ro. Last time we popped in we met up with almost everyone we know in Bucharest. Thats the kind of place this is: on the surface it looks posh and flash and out-of-your-league (the lady at the entrance clutches a clipboard as though her life depends on it) but it is in fact a down-to-earth, come-as-you-are venue playing dance floor hits from across the decades to a crowd a bit older than elsewhere, which can afford the prices of the drinks. We love it. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. PBW Mojo C-6, Str. Gabroveni 14, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0760 26 34 96/(+4) 0767 34 34 10, mihai.paveliu@ mojomusic.ro, www.mojomusic.ro. Three level extravaganza of a venue. On the ground floor is the pub, upstairs is the most popular karaoke venue in the land, while downstairs in the cavernous cellar there is live music, and then some. In a nutshell, this place sets the standard for nights out in Old Town. The beer is a decent price, the crowd a mix of ages and nationalities and the manager is a top bloke who makes a point of being nice to his customers. When ace local bands are not playing, the resident Mojo band usually is. Also now puts on regular quiz nights and live British stand-up comedy too. Top notch. QOpen 13:00 - 05:00. PEBW August - September 2013
Finnish Cocktail & Club C-6, Str. Selari 28, MPiata
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Shopping
Bucharests main shopping areas are the shopping centres and malls listed below, as well as B-dul Magheru and - increasingly - Calea Victoriei. There are plenty of places to buy souvenirs, and if that special someone is demanding you bring back something uniquely Romanian, we suggest Romanian Monopoly, which features the streets and districts of Bucharest (placing Primaverii in place of Mayfair). It can be bought for around 120.00 lei in good toy and book stores. See the feature on pages 24-25. and perhaps most famous market. Colourful, huge, and always lively, it is not what it once was: where once you could buy almost anything here, it is now a strictly meat, dairy produce, fruit and vegetable market. A good one though. Watch your wallet. QOpen 06:00 - 20:00. Targul Vitan-Barzesti Sos. Vitan-Barzesti/Splaiul Unirii. An astonishing place. Every Sunday morning this place becomes Bucharests biggest and busiest flea market. Its mayhem. More or less everything you can imagine can be found here, all prices negotiable. Next door is an enormous second-hand car market. Bus 123 from Piata Unirii will get you here. Be brave. Q Open 08:00-16:00. Closed Mon-Sat.
Shopping
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Bookshops
Anthony Frost English Bookshop B-4, Calea Victoriei 45, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 311 51 38, www.anthonyfrost.ro. Stocks a good range of fiction, an exceptional range of non-fiction, plenty of childrens books, and a decent selection of books about Romania and Bucharest. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Crturesti C-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15, tel. (+4) 021 317 34 59, www.carturesti.ro. Marvellous bookshop, gallery and small cafe, with good selection of English books. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Humanitas Kretzulescu B-4, Calea Victoriei 45, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 50 35, kretzulescu@humanitas.ro, www.libhumanitas.ro. Large bookshop selling a wide range of both Romanian and foreign language books. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Sala Dalles C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 18, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 52 60, www.carti-anticariat.ro. A good bookshop with a large exhibition space out back that often hosts book and gift fairs. Always has a decent selection of books in English. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
Shopping centres
AFI Palace Cotroceni B-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul Timisoara, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 031 425 75 10, www. aficotroceni.ro. One of Bucharests biggest malls, with the added attraction of an IMAX cinema, a large ice skating rink (open year round) and even an indoor roller coaster. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:30. Baneasa Shopping City os. Bucureti-Ploieti 42D, tel. (+4) 021 305 71 95, www.baneasashoppingcity.ro. The largest mall in Bucharest. With more than 220 shops it makes everywhere else look quite small. You can get here on buses 131 or 301 from Piata Romana. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Restaurants Open 10:00 -23:00. Bucuresti Mall E-7, Calea Vitan 55-59, tel. (+4) 021 327 67 00, www.bucurestimall.com.ro. Recently extended in a major redevelopment, this place - when opened in 1999 - was the first mall in the city. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Unirea Shopping Centre C-6, Piata Unirii 1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 303 02 08, www.unireashop.ro. What was once Romanian socialisms showpiece department store. There are fashion stores on the first and second floors while the electronics and household appliance shops on floors three and four are also worth a visit. An excellent Mega Image supermarket can be found in the basement. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Markets
Bucharest is home to a number of markets, most of which stock a wide range of produce, at prices often (but not always) cheaper than the supermarkets. Also look out for occasional arts, crafts, peasant and antiques markets at the Peasant Museum: these are usually held once a month.
Casa Frumoasa
A network of stores around the city selling only the biggest names in high fashion: T om Ford, Scabal, Brioni, Salvatore Ferragamo, Loro Piana, Jacob Cohen etc. Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand), tel. (+4) 0731 03 65 63, www.casafrumoasa.ro. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Casa Frumoasa Radisson B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 0723 33 17 31, www.casafrumoasa.ro. QOpen 10.00 - 21.00, Sat 10.00 - 19.00, Sun 10.00 - 17.00. Casa Frumoasa Store B-4, B-dul Lascar Catargiu 40, (+4) 0733 73 59 30, www.casafrumoasa.ro. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Elegance Boutique B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 0722 45 48 82, www. elegance-paris.ro. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. J. Kristensen Store Bucuresti B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 0724 35 30 06, j.k.bucharest@casafrumoasa.ro. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Complex Comercial Rahova Calea Rahovei. A mad, mad place not for the faint hearted out in the undeservingly notorious Rahova district of the capital. Find half of Chinas annual exports on sale at any time. Take the No. 32 tram from Piata Unirii: it stops right outside. Piata Obor E-4, Piata Obor, MObor. Bucharests biggest
Casa Frumoasa JW Marriott B-6, Calea 13
Specialist Wine Stores

(+4) 021 31 00 580, www.berosandvanschaik.ro. Super little place on the edge of the Old Town run by the same people as the Van Gogh Cafe. Its a wine bar and shop where you can find a fine selection of self-imported wines, tasting them all before you buy. You can also just pop in for a glass or two. QOpen 14:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 24:00.
BvS Wine Bar & Shop C-6, Str. Covaci 19, tel.
Ethic Wine C-3, Str. Banu Antonache 55, tel. (+4)
0722 63 37 89, www.ethicwine.ro. Wonderful wine shop, run by a friendly Englishman and his lovely wife, both of whom really know their stuff. There is a wide range of local grape, as well as a good selection of wines from Cricova in the Republic of Moldova. QOpen 13:00 - 21:00, Mon 15:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
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directory
directory
91
Cleaners
15 55/(+4) 0723 89 22 86, office@egnate.ro, www.egnate.ro. Professional cleaning service: apartments, houses, offices etc. They will even come and clear up after you have had the builders in, and can take care of tricky things such as marble and furniture.
Foreign representations
Austria C-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 7, tel. (+4) 021 201 Belgium D-4, B-dul Dacia 58, tel. (+4) 021 210 29 69. Bulgaria B-3, Str. Rabat 5, tel. (+4) 021 230 21 50. Canada A-3, Str. Tuberozelor 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 307 Croatia D-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 1, tel. (+4) 021 300 Czech Republic C-5, Str. Ion Ghica 11, tel. (+4) 021 Denmark D-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 3, tel. (+4) 021 300 Finland B-3, Str. Atena 2bis, tel. (+4) 021 230 75 45. France B-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 13-15, tel. (+4) 021
08 00. 303 92 30. 56 12.
Egnate B-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 10, tel. (+4) 0734 11
50 00.
Clinics & Hospitals

Emergency Clinic Hospital (Spitalul de Urgenta Floreasca) C-3, Calea Floreasca 8, tel. (+4) 021 599
23 00, www.urgentafloreasca.ro. Best state-run hospital in Romania. Efficient, clean, and well-run.Q Open 24hrs. Unirea Medical Center C-6, B-dul Unirii 57, bl. E4, tel. (+4) 021 327 11 88/(+4) 021 9268, www.cmu.ro. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
36 55.
Dentists
4, tel./fax (+4) 021 320 01 51, www.germandentist.ro. Probably the best dentist in the city. Whats more, you can bring the kids too, as they now have special rooms equipped just for them. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. For emergencies (24hrs) tel. (+4) 0744 49 91 99. Also at (B-2) Calea Dorobantilor 208, tel. (+4) 021 231 88 56.
B.B. Clinic - German Dentist D-6, Str. Ionescu Gion
Dry Cleaners
5asec B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 111, tel. (+4) 021 236 00 98/(+4) 0762 28 53 47, www.5asec.ro. Best dry cleaners in town.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Also at (E-7) Calea Vitan 13 and many other locations around town.
303 10 00. Germany B-3, Cpt. Av. Gh. Demetriade 6-8, tel. (+4) 021 202 98 30. Greece E-5, Str. Pache Protopopescu 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 209 41 70. Hungary C-4, Str. Jean Louis Calderon 63-65, tel. (+4) 031 620 43 00. Ireland B-4, Str. Buzesti 50-52, et. 3, tel. (+4) 021 310 21 31. Italy B-4, Str. Henri Coanda 9, tel. (+4) 021 305 21 00. Macedonia D-4, Str. Mihai Eminescu 144, tel. (+4) 021 210 08 80. Moldova B-3, Aleea Alexandru 40, tel. (+4) 021 230 04 74. Netherlands B-3, Str. Aleea Alexandru 20, tel. (+4) 021 208 60 30. Norway B-3, Str. Atena 18, tel. (+4) 021 306 98 00. Poland B-3, Aleea Alexandru 23, tel. (+4) 021 308 22 00. Portugal B-3, Str. Paris 55, tel. (+4) 021 230 41 36. Russia B-3, Sos. Pavel Kiseleff 6, tel. (+4) 021 222 31 70.
Earthquakes
death. The following advice is provided by the UK Embassy in Bucharest: If you are inside a building during an earthquake, stay calm and do not rush outside. Duck, cover and hold under a table or strong desk or stand in a corner. Do not stand in doorways. If you are in bed, stay there until the shaking stops. Turn off the gas. Stay away from windows and outside walls in high rise buildings. Never use a lift to exit the building. If you are outside during an earthquake go to an open area and stay away from trees, buildings, walls and power lines. If in a public area, do not rush for the doors. Crouch down and cover your head and neck with your hands and arms. If you are in a car, stop and pull over to the side of the road. Avoid overpasses and power lines. Stay inside the car until the shaking stops. If you are on a train, hold onto a secure item and follow the instructions of the crew. The Romanian Government is responsible for assisting foreign nationals immediately after a major earthquake or serious natural disaster. It is important to co-operate with the authorities. In the event of a major earthquake foreign embassies will usually try to find their own nationals affected by the disaster and check on their condition. Please note, however, that the embassies themselves may also be severely affected by an earthquake, and may not be in a position to offer immediate assistance.
Bucharest has in the past been close to the epicentre of a number of major earthquakes, some of which have caused much damage to buildings and great loss of life. The last major earthquake to hit the capital was the great Bucharest Earthquake of 1977 (see photo, above), when more than 1500 people were killed (including the countrys best loved actor, Toma Caragiu). The current trend, however, has been towards smaller tremors (two or three can be felt in Bucharest each year), which in theory at least reduces the risk of a major quake. However, despite much research and speculation, nobody can predict when or where a large earthquake might occur, but there are things you can do to be ready. These can make the difference between life and
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Schools in Bucharest
For Mums and Dads who live in Bucharest, the good news is that the city has some outstanding schools: both state and private. Indeed, there are a handful of state schools in Bucharest (both primary and secondary) which regularly meet an outstanding academic level, even if their facilities are somewhat lacking (few state schools have sports fields). There are huge differences between state schools however, and competition for places at the best is tough. There is also of course the fact that unless your kids can speak Romanian, the state system will be practically closed to them. Fortunately, the private sector has jumped in to fill this breach, and there are now a number of excellent private sector schools in Bucharest offering a high level of education to children of all nationalities (and not just expats: many wealthy Romanians choose to send their children to these private schools). We provide a list of the best private schools below. All boast outstanding academic records and modern facilities, native English speaking teachers, and a vast range of extra-curricular activities.
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International Schools
196, Comuna Voluntari, tel. (+4) 021 204 43 00/ (+4) 021 204 43 01, fax (+4) 021 204 43 03, office@ aisb.ro, www.aisb.ro. Athena Greek School of Bucharest D-6, Str. Parfumului 9, office-gpa@greekschool.ro, www. greekschool.ro. British School of Bucharest Erou Iancu Nicolae 42, tel. (+4) 021 267 89 19/(+4) 0728 13 34 33, fax (+4) 021 267 89 69, office@britishschool.ro, www.britishschool.ro. Bucharest Christian Academy D-7, Str. Vasile Voiculescu 26, tel. (+4) 021 323 58 87/(+4) 021 323 54 08, director@bcaromania.org, www.bcaromania.org. Cambridge School of Bucharest B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 39, tel. (+4) 021 210 21 31/(+4) 021 210 21 38, fax (+4) 021 210 20 06, office@cambridgeschool.ro, www.cambridgeschool.ro. International British School E-5, Str. Agricultori 21-23, tel. (+4) 021 253 16 98, fax (+4) 021 253 16 97, office@ibsb.ro, www.ibsb.ro.
American International School Sos. Pipera-Tunari
Swimming Pools & Water Parks

Str. Polona 23A, Otopeni, www.clubmoving.ro. Big indoor swimming pool with outdoor sun terrace in Otopeni. Excellent sauna, spa, fitness and aerobics facilities too. Great place to get away from the city centre and relax. From Monday to Saturday they even have someone to entertain the kids while you swim or work out. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00- 21:00. Day tickets cost 25 for access to all amenities.
98 71.
Serbia B-3, Calea Dorobantilor 34, tel. (+4) 021 211 Slovakia C-5, Str. Otetari 1, tel. (+4) 021 300 61 00. Spain B-3, Aleea Alexandru 43, tel. (+4) 021 318 10 80. Sweden B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 43, tel. (+4) 021 406 71 00. Switzerland B-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 16-20, UK C-4, Str. Jules Michelet 24, tel. (+4) 021 201 72 00. USA B-dul Liviu Librescu 4-5, tel. (+4) 021 200 33 00.
tel. (+4) 021 206 16 00.
Club Moving
Hilton Health Club C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee

Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77. Indoor pool, sauna, steam room, massage, weight and fitness room, and a host of other wellness facilities. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. Day tickets cost 120 lei.
Crowne Plaza B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza Ho-
tel), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.crowneplaza.ro. Indoor pool in a leafy setting at the Crowne Plaza hotel. Sauna, jacuzzi and massage too.QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. Day tickets valid 08:00-16:00 cost 65 lei, tickets valid 16:00-23:00 cost 90 lei. Children under 16 cost 50 lei at any time of day if accompanied by an adult.
4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20. Probably the highest swimming pool in Romania (its on one of the top floors of the InterContinental hotel). The views are great, there is a gym and steam room too, and you can sunbathe on the balcony. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. Day tickets valid from 06:00-16:00 cost 80 lei (adults), 40 lei (children). Tickets valid from 06:00-22:00 cost 120 lei (adults) and 80 lei (children).
InterContinental Hotel C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu
For a full list of foreign embassies and representations in Bucharest, visit inyourpocket.com.
Pescariu Sports & Spa D-2, Str. Glodeni 3, tel. (+4) 021
Sala Polivalenta), MTineretului, www.daimonclub.ro. Tennis and fitness club in Tineretului Park, with two swimming pools (indoor and outdoor).QOpen 06:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. Adults 40 lei Mon-Fri, 60 lei Sat, Sun. Children (between five and 12) 30 lei Mon-Fri, 40 lei Sat, Sun. Children under five swim for free.
Daimon Sport Club D-8, Parcul Tineretului (Opposite
242 16 15, www.pescariusports.ro. Good outdoor and indoor pools open to the public. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. Adults 60 lei Mon-Fri, 100 lei Sat, Sun. Children 40 lei Mon-Fri, 50 lei Sat, Sun. Free for children under three.
Nebiolo 1, Piata Montreal, tel. (+4) 0720 73 47 34, www.lyoclub.ro. Elegant outdoor pool. QOpen 09:00 19:00. 20 lei Mon-Fri, 30 lei Sat, Sun.
Strandul Tineretului (Club LYO) A-2, Str. Primo
Divertiland Str. Divertismentului 1, www.divertiland.
ro. Slides, swimming pools, sandy beaches and much more at one of Romanias biggest water parks. Q Adults 50 lei Mon-Fri, 80 lei Sat, Sun. Children 40 lei Mon-Fri, 70 lei Sat, Sun. Free for children under three.
Water Park Calea Bucurestilor 255A, Otopeni, tel. (+4) 0730 77 72 07, www.waterpark.ro. Large open-air water park with plenty of slides and fun pools. Entrance is at the rear of the Confort hotel. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Adults 30 lei Mon-Fri, 50 lei Sat, Sun. Children 15 lei Mon-Fri, 25 lei Sat, Sun. bucharest.inyourpocket.com
(InSPE) Str. Petre Aurelian 72, Green Lake Residence, tel. (+4) 021 380 35 35/(+4) 021 380 36 36, fax (+4) 021 380 38 38, office@inspe.ro, www. inspe.ro. International School of Bucharest Sos. Gara Catelu 1R, tel. (+4) 021 306 95 30, fax (+4) 021 306 95 34, info@isb.ro, www.isb.ro. Japanese School in Bucharest A-2, Str. Alexandru Constantinescu 61, tel. (+4) 021 222 19 85, fax (+4) 021 222 19 86, jpsbucharest@gmail.com, www.jpschool.ro. Lauder-Reut C-6, Str. Iuliu Barasch 15, tel. (+4) 021 320 15 38, fax (+4) 021 320 15 75, lauder_reut@ yahoo.com, www.lauder-reut.ro. Lycee Francais B-4, Str. Christian Tell 22, tel. (+4) 021 212 58 93/(+4) 021 212 58 94, fax (+4) 021 312 09 74, lfb.adn@lyfrabuc.ro, www.lyfrabuc.ro. Mark Twain International School Str. Erou Iancu Nicolae 25B, tel. (+4) 021 267 89 12/(+4) 0724 00 09 00, fax (+4) 021 267 89 85, contact@marktwainschool.ro, www.marktwainschool.ro. bucharest.inyourpocket.com
International School for Primary Education
Key cuts
El Chei C-5, Str. Coltei 6, tel. (+4) 021 311 14 18, www. elchei.ro. Call (+4) 0722 20 51 10 ifyou get locked out of your apartment late at night.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun.
Pharmacies
24hrs. Also at (B-3) Str. Av. Radu Beller 8, and many other locations around the city. Sensiblu C-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 7, www.sensiblu. com. QOpen 24hrs. Also at (B-3) Str. Radu Beller 6, and many other locations.
Help Net A-3, B-dul Unirii 27, www.helpnet.ro. Q Open
Removals & Storage

AGS Worldwide Movers B-dul Basarabia 256 (Faur Industrial Park, entrance from B-dul 1 Decembrie 1918), tel. (+4) 021 345 06 66. Euro Mini Storage B-dul Theodor Pallady 42 J, tel. (+4) 031 100 18 88, www.euroministorage.com. August - September 2013
Northern Bucharest
Central & Southern Bucharest
98
Street register & HOTEL MAP INDEX

13 Septembrie, Calea B6 21 Decembrie 1989, Piata C5 Academiei, Str. C5 Alecsandri Vasile, Str. B4 Alexandrescu Grigore, Intr. C4 Alexandrescu Grigore, Str. B4 Aman Theodor, Str. B5 Amman, Str. C3 Amzei, Intr. B4 Apolodor, Str. B6 Argentina, Str. B3 Arghezi Tudor, Str. C5 Atelierului, Str. A4 Atena, Str. B3 Balaban Emil, Str. C4 Balcescu Nicolae, Bd. C5 Baniei, Str. C6 Banului, Str. B5 Baratiei, Str. C6 Batistei, Str. C5 Berna, Str. B3 Berthelot H. M., G-ral., Str. B5 Berzei, Str. A4 Biserica Amzei, Str. B4 Biserica Enei, Str. C5 Bitolia, Intr. B3 Blanari, Str. C6 Blanc Louis, Arh., Str. B3 Blanduziei, Str. C5 Bogdan Ion, Prof., Str. C4 Botez Eugen, Cmdr., Str. C3 Bratianu I.c., Bd. C6 Brazilia, Str. B3 Brebu, Str. E3 Brezoianu Ion, Str. B5 Brutus M.i., Str. B6 Bruxelles, Str. B3 Budisteanu Constantin, G-ral, Str. B5 Buiestrului, Str. C3 Buzesti, Intr. B4 Buzesti, Piata A4 Buzesti, Str. B4 Buzoiani Iani, Str. C2 Buzoianu Ion, Lt.col., Intr. C6 Caderea Bastiliei, Intr. B4 Caderea Bastiliei, Str. B4 Caderon Jean Louis, Str. C5 Calin Ion, Erou, Str. C4 Cameliei, Str. A4 Carada Eugeniu, Str. C6 Caragea Ioan Voda, Str. C4 Caragiale I.l., Str. C5 Caragiale I.l.,intr. C5 Carol I, Bd. D5 Catargiu Lascar, Bd. B4 Cavafii Vechi, Str. C6 Cazzavillan Luigi, Str. B5 Cernat Alexandru, G-ral, Str. A4 Cioranu Mihai, Str. A6 Clucerului, Str. A3 Clunet, Dr., Str. A6 Coanda Constantin, G-ral., Str. B4 Coanda Henri, Str. B4 Cobalcescu Grigore, Prof., Str. B5 Coltei, Str. C5 Constantin Daniel, Str. B4 Constitutiei, Piata B6 Conta Vasile, Str. C5 Coposu Corneliu, Bd. C6 Coposu Corneliu, Piata D6 Cornescu, Str. C3 Cotiturii, Str. A5 Covaci, Str. C6 Crisana, Str. A5 Crisului, Str. C6 Cronicarilor, Str. C3 Cuza Alexandru Ioan, Bd. A4 Dacia, Bd. D4 Dascalu Nicolae, Serg., Intr. B4 David Emmanuel, Str. C4 Davila Carol, Dr., Str A6 Dealul Mitropoliei, Alee C6 Demetriade Gheorghe, Cpt. av., Str B3 Dianei, Str. C5 Doamna Oltea, Str. C3 Dona Nicolae, G-ral, Str. B5 Dorobanti, Calea B3 Dorobanti, Piata B3 Dragalina Ion, G-ral., Str. B6 Drobeta, Str. C4 Duca Gheorghe, Bd. A4 Dumbrava Rosie, Str. C4 Eforie, Str. C5 Eftimiu Victor, Intr. B5 Elie Radu, Str. B5 Eminescu Mihai, Intr. C4 Eminescu Mihai, Str. D4 Enescu George, Piata B5 Enescu George, Str. B5 Episcopiei, Str. C5 Eroii Sanitari, Bd. A5 Eroilor, Bd. A5 Eroilor, Piata A6 Felix Iacob, Dr., Str. A4 Filipescu Nicolae, Str. C5 Finlanda, Str. B3 Floreasca, Cale C3 Florescu Ion, G-ral, Str. C5 Franceza, Str. C6 Frumoasa, Intr. B4 Frumoasa, Str. B4 Furtuna Stefan, Intr. A5 Gabroveni, Str. C6 Gara De Nord, Piata A4 Gara De Nord, Str. A4 Georgescu George, Str. B6 Ghica Ion, Str. C5 Golescu Dinicu, Bd. A4 Golescu Nicolae, Str. C5 Greceanu Paul, Str. C4 Grigorescu Eremia, Str. C4 Grivitei, Cale B4 Gusti Dimitrie, Str. A5 Gutenberg, Str. B5 Haga, Str. B3 Hagi Moscu Maria, Str. A3 Halelor, Str. C6 Haret Spiru, Str. B5 Hasdeu Iulia, Intr. B4 Hasdeu Iulia, Str. B4 Horatiu, Str. B4 Hristo Botev, Bd. C5 Iancu De Hunedoara, Bd. B4 Icoanei, Str. C4 Ilfov, Str. B6 Iorga Nicolae, Intr. B4 Iorga Nicolae, Str. B4 Iosif O. Eugen, Dr., Str. A6 Iulian Stefan, Str. A3 Izvor, Str. A6 Justitiei, Str. B6 Kiseleff P .d., Bd. B3 Kogalniceanu Mihail, Bd B5 Kogalniceanu Mihail, Piata B5 Lacatusului, Str. C2 Lacul Tei, Bd. D3 Lahovari Alexandru, Piata C4 Lantului, Str. A6 Lascar Vasile, Str. C5 Lazar Gheorghe, Str. B5 Lebedei, Str. A3 Libertatii, Bd. B6 Libertatii, Piata B7 Lipova, Str. A5 Lipscani, Str. C6 Lisabona, Str. B3 Lister, Dr., Str. A6 Londra, Str. B3 Lupu Dionisie, Str. C5 Luterana, Str. B5 Macedoniei, Str. A5 Magheru Gheorghe, Bd C5 Magiresti, Str. A4 Maltopol, Str. A4 Mamulari, Str. C6 Manolescu Grigore, Str. A3 Manu Gheorghe, G-ral, Str. B4 Maracineanu Walter, Piata B5 Masaryk Thomas, Str. C5 Mendeleev D.i., Str. C4 Mexic, Str. B3 Michelet Julles, Str. C4 Micle Veronica, Str. A4 Mihai Voda, Str. B6 Mihalache Ion, Bd. A3 Mihnea Voda, Str. C6 Mille Constantin, Str. B5 Millo Matei, Str. B5 Mincu Ion, Arh., Str. B3 Mirinescu Mihail, Dr., Str. A6 Miron Costin, Str. A4 Mitropolit Antim Ivireanul, Str. B6 Monetariei, Str. B3 Mosilor, Cale D4 Moxa Mihail, Str. B4 Muresanu Andrei, Str. B3 Musatescu Tudor, Piata B5 Natiunile Unite, Bd. B6 Natiunile Unite, Piata B6 Neculce Ion, Str. A3 Negri Costache, Str. A6 Negruzzi Iacob, Str. A4 Negulescu Stefan, Str. C3 Occidentului, Str. B4 Oslo, Str. B3 Ostasilor, Str. B5 Otetari,str. C5 Paris, Str. B3 Parvan Vasile, Str. B5 Pasteur Louis, Dr., Str. A6 Patriarhiei, Str. C6 Petrescu Camil, Intr. C4 Philippide Alexandru, Str. C4 Piata Amzei, Str. B4 Pitar Mos, Str. C5 Poenaru Bordea, Str. B6 Poiana Narciselor, Str. B5 Politie, Str. B6 Polizu Gheorghe, Str. A4 Polona, Str. C4 Poni Petru, Str. A4 Popa Tatu, Str. B5 Popescu-gopo Ion, Str. A6 Povernei, Str. B4 Praga, Str. B3 Praporgescu David, G-ral., Str. C5 Pretorienilor, Str. A6 Putul Cu Plopi, Str. B5 Putul Lui Zamfir, Str. B3 Quinet Edgar, Str. C5 Quito, Piata B3 Rabat, Str. B3 Radu Voda, Str. C6 Ramniceanu Naum, Str. C3 Regina Elisabeta, Bd. C5 Regina Maria, Bd. C6 Revolutiei, Piata B5 Rigas, Intr. B5 Roma, Intr. B3 Roma, Str. B3 Romana, Piata B4 Rosetti C.a., Piata C5 Rosetti C.a., Str. C5 Rosetti Maria, Str. C5 Rossini Gioachino, Str. C3 Saligny Anghel, Ing., Str. B5 Sapientei, Str. B6 Sarandy Frosa, Str. A3 Scarlatescu, Str. A3 Schitul Magureanu, Bd. B5 Scoala Floreasca, Str. C3 Scoalei, Str. C5 Selari, Intr. C6 Selari, Str. C6 Sepcari, Str. C6 Sevastopol, Intr. B4 Sevastopol, Str. B4 Sfanta Vineri, Str. C6 Sfantul Constantin, Str. B5 Sfantul Elefterie, Str. A6 Sfintii Apostoli, Str. B6 Sfintii Voievozi, Piata B4 Sfintii Voievozi, Str. B4 Slanic, Str. C5 Slatineanu Ion, Str. C4 Slavesti, Str. C4 Smardan, Str. C6 Sofia, Str. B3 Stahi Constantin, Str. B5 Staicovici Nicolae, Dr., Str. A6 Stavropoleos, Str. C6 Stefan Cel Mare, Sosea D4 Stirbei Voda, Intr. B5 Stirbei Voda, Str. B5 Tirana, Str. B3 Titulescu Nicolae, Sosea A4 Tokio, Str. B3 Tomescu Toma, Dr., Intr. B4 Transilvaniei, Str. B5 Tudor Stefan, Intr. C3 Tunari, Str. C4 Unirii, Bd. C6 Unirii, Piata C6 Universitatii, Piata C5 Vacarescu Barbu, Str. C3 Venezuela, Str. B3 Verona Arthur, Pictor, Str. C5 Victoriei, Calea B4 Victoriei, Piata B4 Visarion I.c., Str. B4 Vladoianu Barbu, G-ral, Str. A3 Vlaicu Aurel, Str. C4 Vulcanescu Mircea, Str. B4 Washington, Str. B3 Witting, Str. A4 Xenopol Alexandru, Str. C4 Zalomit Z. Ion. Str. B5 Zola Emile, Str. B3 INDEX TO HOTEL NUMBERS ON MAp H1 Helvetia (closed) H2 Casa Victor H3 Picollo Mondo H4 Hello Hotels H5 Andys H6 Moxa H7 Starlight H8 Duke H9 Golden Tulip H10 Residence Arcul de Trimf H11 Hotel Dan H12 JW Marriott H13 Parliament H14 Ibis Parlament H15 Volo H16 Berthelot H17 Centre Ville H18 Opera H19 Palace H20 Central H21 Carol Parc H22 Hilton H23 Novotel H24 Capitol H25 Grand Continental H26 Lido (closed) H27 Ambasador H28 Radisson Blu H29 Rembrandt H30 Tania H31 Relax Comfort Suites H32 Intercontinental H33 K+K Elisabeta H34 Horoscop H35 Tempo Hotel H36 Royal H37 International Bucharest H38 Hotel Confort Traian H39 Double Tree by Hilton H40 Ramada Majestic H41 Ibis Gara De Nord H42 Suter Inn H43 NH Bucharest H44 Howard Johnson H45 Scala H46 Trianon H47 Epoque H48 Z Boutique H49 Nonna Mia H50 Boutique Hotel Monaco H51 Minerva H52 Cismigiu H53 Europa Royale H54 Marshal Garden

Bucharest

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Budget B-4, Str. Mihail Moxa 9, tel. (+4) 021 210 28

Info Tourist Center C-5, P-ta Universitatii Underpass,

Avis B-dul Theodor Pallady 51, tel. *AVIS (*2847) - OSSN

Bavaria Rent Drumul Garii Otopeni 1B, tel. (+4) 0730

Sixt New Kopel Calea Bucurestilor 201-203, tel. (+4)

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Arenele Romane B-7, Str. Cutitul de Argint 26

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18.08 Sunday Julian Marley

Diverta Music & Film C-6, Piata Unirii (Unirea

Hollywood Multiplex E-7, Calea Vitan 55-59

Roger Waters: The Wall

IMAX/Cinema City B-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul

Vara Magica: Chamber Music

Mojo Music Club C-6, Str. Gabroveni 14, MPiata

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07.09 Saturday New World Punx

The Light Cinema Sos. Progresului 151-171 (Lib-

Vara Magica: Romanian Sinfonietta Orchestra

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Avis B-dul Theodor Pallady 51, tel. AVIS (2847) - OSSN