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Living

in Mozambique 101

TABLE OF CONTET

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS INTRODUCTION PRACTICALITIES CURRENCY


Where to Live What to Expect to Pay in Rent Water Electricity Gas Insects and Other pests Transportation Chapa (mini bus) Chapela Taxi Machibombo (bus) Train Flights Ferries and Boats Walking Biking Working Out in Maputo Where to Go and Maybe Not Where to Go? How to Get Connected as an Expat in the City

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6 7 7 7 7 7 7 8 8 8 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 11 11

CULTURE
Nightlife Other Events and Festivals Cinema

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11 12 12

Theater Visa Police Where and What to Eat and Drink Drinking Water Food Cafs Restaurants Religion Ethnicities Corruption Banks and Cash versus Card Hospitals and Medical Centers in Case of Emergency Pharmacies What Medicines to Take Malaria pills: Necessary in Maputo? Stomach issues What medicines to bring, and what can easily be accessed? Having Your Papers in Order Cell Phones Where to Buy Clothes Where to Buy Food Temperatures and Weather What to Bring Weekend Trips and Shorter Travels: Where to Go and How to Get There Ponta DOuro Chefinas (Xefinas) Inhaca Island Macaneta Tofo Inhambane

12 13 13 13 13 13 13 14 15 15 15 15 16 16 16 16 16 17 17 17 18 18 18 18 19 19 19 19 20 20 21

Vilanculos and the Bazaruto Archipelagio Krger National Park, South Africa Nelspruit and Kaapsehoop, South Africa Festivals What to Wear? Book Shops Language Resources A Few Things to Keep in Mind (Be Street Smart) Further Readings and Other Resources

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Acknowledgements
We have tried to make this brochure a brochure, rather than a booklet. It is a place where you can look up things and read through if you want to get a better understanding of Maputo and Mozambique. Furthermore, it is also intended to serve as a guide to help you find your way around Maputo, and the services that you need here. The booklet is made for Norwegian AIESECers going to Mozambique, and in particular Maputo, however, it is also useful for others. We would also strongly recommend reading up on the country and city, both in relation to its history and tips for travelers. For this we have included a list for further reading. Good reading, Lilly Sofie Smines and Eli Marie Smedsrud, FK and AIESEC participants 2013

Introduction
Pre Departure (in advance): Make sure to get
your visa(s) in order. Be sure that your passport is valid for at least 6 months after you intend to leave Mozambique. Get all the required (and potentially also recommended) vaccinations you need for traveling and living in Mozambique. In case you are taking vaccines such as the Rabies vaccine, be aware that some of these vaccines require several shots, and one most consequently start taking these many weeks in advance prior to departure from the home country. Buy a dictionary and try to learn some Portuguese; you will get much more out of your stay, get to know people and find your way around more easily if you speak and understand some Portuguese. Buy and read some travel literature and guides on Mozambique. Some of the better travel guides include the Mozambique guides by Lonely Planet and Brandt. The Mozambique guide by Globetrotter is another good option, coming in the size of a pocket book, and including some great maps.

situation in Mozambique. Link: http://www.landsider.no/land/mosambik/

After Arrival: Stay positive and be open!


Patience is maybe not everything, but it is essential when working and living in Mozambique. Things take time, and many things are very different from what they are like in Norway. Try to make the best out of otherwise frustrating situations, enjoy your stay and be open to try new things!

PRACTICALITIES Currency
In Mozambique the currency is the Mozambican Metical. On the 15th of September 2013, the conversion rate is: 1 Norwegian Krone (NOK) = 5.92 Mozambican Meticales (MZN) 1 U.S. Dollar ($) =29.75 Mozambican Meticales (MZN)

Where to Live
Areas in Maputo and close by Polana (generally very expensive) Bairro Central Costa do Sol Malhangalene Alto Mae Baixa Summershield I Summershield II

Upon Departure: Get a few phone numbers of


friends or connections in Mozambique. Get the address of where you are staying, or keep the address of a hotel or hostel at hand; as one is required to write down the address of the stay upon arrival if one is seeking/applying for a tourist visa at the airport. Bring some hard currency, either in Mozambican Meticales, or if this is not possible, in US dollars. The fee that is required to pay at the airport for the visa must be paid in one of these two currencies. The fee was 78 US dollar in August 2013. Look up the websites provided from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs concerning the political and social

The higher up you live, the less likelihood there is that you will have issues with rats. The malaria mosquitos do not (usually) fly higher than the second floor of a building, and, in general, mosquitos tend to be more of a problem the further down that you live.

A lot of the facades of the apartment buildings in Maputo look like they havent been fixed for the last decades. This is, sadly, also often the case as tenants in the buildings do not usually pay common costs to the building, in order to pay to fix broken windows or for the lighting. What most apartment buildings do have, however, are doormen (if not 24/7, at least during the night). Furthermore, most apartments in Maputo have balconies. Bringing us to another incentive to live on a higher floor - the view! From above the city is beautiful, with a lot of green areas and in most cases an outlook on the ocean.

live. Moreover, even though you do have water, it happens rather frequently that the water is turned off, and in some buildings the water is shut off for a certain number of hours every day (e.g. during the night). If this is the case, always keep extra buckets and bottles filled with water. It depends on the apartment if water is included in the rent or not.

Electricity
More or less all buildings in Maputo have electricity. Nevertheless, it blackouts do occur, and it is therefore to be advised to keep candles and torches. The streets in the city are lit, but many of the streets in the bairros (neighborhoods) in the outskirts of the city still do not have street lighting. Whereas most apartments in Maputo have electricity, a lot of the buildings do not have lights in the common staircase. It depends on the apartment if electricity is included in the rent or not.

What to Expect to Pay in Rent


Living in Maputo is expensive, and it can often be very difficult to find an apartment to live in in the first place. Moreover, the standard is often pretty low, and paying as much as one does for something of the quality one often gets in Maputo and Mozambique can be hard to accept. Location is key. Consequently, the prices of the apartments vary greatly based on the location of the apartment. The most expensive locations are probably Polana and Costa do Sol. After this it is Bairro Central and then Malangalene. These four areas are centrally located and of these four, Polana, Bairro Central and Malhangalene are the most central and safe places to live in Maputo. A lot of foreigners live in, and many of the embassies are also located in, Polana, Summershield I and Summershield II. Baixa is (and means) downtown; it is busy during the day, but during the night few people are seen walking in the area, something that results in a high crime rate.

Gas
Most of the households in Maputo use gas in order to cook. It depends on the apartment, but gas is often not included in the rent.

Insects and Other pests


Maputo is a rather dirty city, and there is lots of trash around. The city is struggling to handle all the trash, and even though there are trucks that come and remove the trash, depending on the location in the city, often times the trash is dealt with by setting fire to it. Consequently, there are a lot of rats in the city. Cockroaches are other insects that are also often seen in Maputo.

Water
In Maputo it is not given that you will have hot water in the apartment or house where you 7

Transportation
Transportation is Mozambique is very often incredibly crowded, and there is always space for one more.

Airport How to get from the airport to the city? When arriving at the airport in Maputo you have several options getting to the city. The airport is located no more than ten minutes from the city by vehicle, and walking the distance would probably take about one hour; however, walking the distance is not to be advised as it is a busy road and not a nice walk. Taking a taxi will be no less than 300 Mozambican Meticales (MZN), and should be no more than 500 MZN. Chapelas are a bit cheaper, but in general, you will not see these waiting outside of the airport. If you have a lot of luggage, taking a taxi is the best option. If you do not have much luggage and want to make it as cheap as possible, taking the bus (chapa) is the best option. The chapa is usually 7 MZN (and sometimes 15 MZN, if you are going a longer distance). Chapa (mini bus) The chapa is a mini bus made for 11 or 12 persons (including the driver), but that usually carries around 15 to 20 passengers. There is a system in the world of chapas, and it is important to learn the color of the chapa as well as the names indicated in the front window. In order to learn the routes of the chapas, it is necessary to talk to other people in Maputo who know the city and routes since there are no online timetables or information booths with schedules or routes indicated. It is also good to be aware that the chapas may change their directions at times, or include other stops. While some chapas run all day and night, most of them start running in the early morning (between 3am and 4am) and stop before midnight.

One of the main places for the chapas is Museu; the starting and ending point for several routes. Chapela Chapelas are small three wheeled taxies. They are less expensive than taxis, but much more expensive than buses (chapa and machibombo). There are chapela stops in the same way that there are taxi stops. Some of these stops are: (a) On the corner of Eduardo Mondlande and Vladimir Lenin (next to the church Pandora) and (b) on the corner of Eduardo Mondlane and Karl Marx. Both (a) and (b) are in Bairro Central. Another (c) chapela and taxi stop is in between the restaurants Dolce Vita and Mundos in Polana. Whereas there are lots of chapelas during the day, chapelas are much less frequent seen at night.

A Chapela driving on the main street Eduardo Mondlande in Maputo. Taxi Taxies are the most expensive alternative of the public transportation options. It is always smart to talk to the driver and decide on a price before you start driving. Taxis are available 24/7. One of the taxi companies that is reliable and do not charge too much is: Taxi Marcello: +258 82 5050050 or +258 84 5050050 8

Marcello is probably the cheapest taxi that operate in Maputo, at the same time as it is on time and trustworthy. For every trip you take with Marcello, they report to the base where they go, and you pay for the distance based on kilometers driven. Taxi Marcello is reliable and fine about doing several pick-ups and drop-offs. Car There are many different car-rentals in Maputo. This option might be a good choice if you are going on a longer trip with a group. Meanwhile, for transportation in Maputo it may not be the best solution as the traffic can be quite chaotic and difficult to comprehend. Therefore, the other types of transportation mentioned here might be more advisable within the city. For more tips on driving in Mozambique and cross-country trips check out: http://www.mozambiquehappenings.co.za/trav eltips.htm Machibombo (bus) When going further away from Maputo, e.g. to Marracuene or Matola, there are machibombos as well as chapas. The price taking the machibombo is generally a bit cheaper than taking the chapa or the same. When going even further, i.e. to other regions like Xai-Xai, Inhambane, Beira and Chimoio, there are several bus enterprises to choose from. These buses generally go from the offices of the companies in Baixa, or from Junta, a bit outside of Maputo. Junta is located about 7 km outside of the city and it is a rather chaotic place. Given the fact that the buses generally leave very early in the morning, and Junta is not a nice place to hang out, it is preferable to catch a bus from one of the offices in the Baixa. Train There are trains going between Maputo and places such as Matola gare. Tickets are bought 9

on the train, and they cost about 5 MZN. The trains look like ghost trains, without doors and window glass, and as if they have been standing still for several decades. The buses and the trains take about the same time. Finding schedules for the trains can be hard, but information can be obtained at the beautiful colonial train station downtown in Baixa. Flights Domestic flights in Mozambique can be very expensive. The Mozambican airfare company LAM (Linheas Aereas Moambicanas) are blacklisted by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Norway, and they do consequently not recommend flying with them. Nevertheless, LAM is the only Mozambican airfare company, and they count for most of the domestic flights. Their flights function and the trips that I made with them (Mozambique-South Africa) were just fine. Ferries and Boats There is a ferry between Catembe and Maputo. The ferry takes about 20 minutes and goes back and forth the whole day. The price is 5 MZN. Walking People in Maputo walk a lot, and almost anywhere can be reached walking. Walking is safe during the day, but if one choses to walk during the night or/and when it is dark, it is advisable to walk together and preferably stay on the main streets where there is more traffic. Another good thing to keep in mind is to always walk towards the traffic; in this way it is easier for the passing drivers to see you, and if something were to happen to you. Biking There are still very few bikes and people biking in Maputo. This might be due to the fact that there is little respect or attention showed to

pedestrians and bikers likewise, and there are no bike lanes. Therefore, even though Maputo is flat and consequently a seemingly nice city to bike in, it is important to be very careful and try to stay away from the main roads if one choses to bike.

Working Out in Maputo


Jogging and walking outside (routes) Many people chose to jog the less busy streets in and between Malangalene, Summershield I, Summershield II and Costa do Sol. If passing the avenues of Julius Nyerere or Kenneth Kaunda during the early morning hours or late afternoons, one will likely encounter a herd of eager joggers and cyclists. There is also a small field/ park area between the two streets where people work out when the temperature is more agreeable. Gyms There are several gyms in Maputo. There are gyms of all qualities, and going to a gym that has air condition, elliptical and machines that work and are in order is often very expensive. Physical: Av. Marginal. Clube Maritimo http://www.physical.co.mz/ Progym: Triumfo (Costa do Sol) and Matola http://www.progym.co.mz/ Ginasio Play: Maputo Shopping Centre https://www.facebook.com/gin asioplay Ginnsio Universo: Located in 24. De Julho, just next to Mimmos, and between Interfranca and Polana. The gym has air condition, a wide 10

selection of machines, different group classes (dance, spinning and step among others)showers, sauna, lockers and a swimming pool outside. The monthly fee is 3000 MZN. In addition, a fee of 1000 MZN must be paid the first time as a registration fee. There are also other gyms located at Coop (close to Elvis Bar) and another (with a big swimming pool) on the corner of Avenida Ahmed Sekou Toure and Avenida Salvador Allende. If you are looking for a cheaper option or are mainly interested in lifting weights or using gym equipment, there are very many other smaller options. When walking around the central parts of Maputo one often passes smaller, more personal gyms. Just take a peak and ask for prices. Tennis courts There are six tennis courts just next to Radio Moambicana (RM) and the Jardim Botnico Tunduru in Baixa. Football There are several football clubs and people playing football in Maputo. The magazine Living in Maputo has a section and sports and contact information if you are interested in joining a group (mostly expats) playing football. There is also a group playing football at the Scandinavian school every Tuesday (at the point of writing, September 2013). Swimming pools There are several pools located around the city. As the ocean in Maputo is quite dirty and consequently not a place to swim, and it can become pretty hot, it is nice to have alternative

swimming options. These include some of the gyms as well as Clube Naval, Clube Maritimo and several other locations along Av. Marginal and Costa do Sol.

Where to Go and Maybe Not Where to Go?


Maputo is generally a safe city to walk around in. Robberies do occur, but these are often unarmed and nonviolent. However, do hand over your things if you are robbed. Most of the robberies and crime in Maputo happens during the night, and when it is dark. There are lots of places that are fine walking during the day, but that should be avoided after dark. This includes the Baixa area, an area that is very busy during the day (as many businesses are located here), but almost deserted at night.

d. Living in Maputo: https://www.facebook.com/living. maputo A weekly magazine with articles in English. Often reviews from different places (restaurants and cafs) in Maputo and the surrounding area. e. Stay active on Facebook and other social media

CULTURE
Nightlife
Maputo is a lot about what days where. It is about not only knowing the different clubs and places where people hang out and party, but also, maybe equally important, what days people go where. a. Clubs Coconuts, Ice Lounge and Lounge Weekends, events Elvis Bar Two floors and divided into three sections; (a) a bar with food and drinks and where one is able to talk, (b) a pool room, with several pool tables and a bar, and where smoking is allowed and (c) a disco and a place where there is karaoke on Thursdays and Kizomba dancing on Sundays. Havana Bar A bar in Avenida Mao Tse Tung, close to Avenida Julius Nyerere. A young, but 11

How to Get Connected as an Expat in the City


As an AIESECer in Maputo you should have no problem getting to know people and staying socially active. Use the local AIESECers, and listen to what they tell you about Maputo. It is a social group, and there are different activities and events several days a week. a. Internations: http://www.internations.org/ This is a global and more professional expat community for expats living and working abroad. They have meet ups and events around in Maputo. The website also provides a place to look for rooms/apartments. b. AIESEC: https://www.facebook.com/AIESECi nMozambique c. Club of Mozambique: https://www.facebook.com/club.m ozambique

also mixed crowd. A good place to dance. Gil Vicente A very popular place both among Maputenses and foreigners. There are often concerts here, and every Tuesday there is karaoke with a live band. The place consists of two floors, and there is a bar downstairs. Often crowded. Nucleo DArte Especially crowded on Sundays when there is live music; however, also popular the other days of the week, and open during night as well as during the day. A place where local artists meet and exhibit their works. Terraxinha A bar much loved by the AIESECers in Maputo. Cheap beer. Located in Baixa, close to Karl Marx and the AIESEC Interns residence. Alfaxinha A bar much loved by the AIESECers in Maputo. Cheap beer. Located in Karl Marx, close to the AIESEC MC residence. b. Events: where to learn about events: - The restaurant/bar Dolce Vita located in Av. Julius Nyerere. - The weekly newsletter from Living in Maputo 12

http://www.clubofmozambique.co m/solutions1/news.php - The Agenda cultural that is produced by the NGO IVERC A http://www.iverca.org/

Other Events and Festivals


Maputenses like to celebrate, and Maputo is full of events and festivals throughout the year. The monthly event FEIMA (Feira Gastronomica), taking place every Saturday and Sunday the last weekend of the month in the Parque Continuadores, brings people from Maputo together, and is a place to enjoy good food from all over Mozambique, as well as some international contributions, and drinks and music. FEIMA is popular among young people and families with small children.

Cinema
The main cinema in Maputo is Cinema Lusomundo at Maputo Shopping. There are several daily showings and tickets must be bought at the cinema. A popular place. Other cheaper cinema options are smaller cinemas that only have one or two movie options, and are only open during the weekend. Centro Cultural Franco Moambicano (the French cultural center) also shows movies from time to time. Additionally, annual film festivals are held throughout the city and shouldnt be missed if you are in Maputo at the right time.

Theater
There are several theatres and theater groups both based in and visiting Maputo. Some of the theaters include: Teatro Avenida, located on Av. 25 de setembro (Baixa) Centro Cultural Franco Moambicano (CCFM). This

is a cultural center, and not a theater per se, however, there are often performances and visitig groups doing their shows here. The CCFM also have frequent concerts, Mozambican as well as foreign artists. A Casa Velha. This is an old house located close to the Jardim dos Professores, and is off Av. Patrice Lumumba.

Police
The police in Mozambique are known to be very corrupt. You may be stopped at any time anywhere and asked to show your documentation-which you are required to always carry on you. You may be stopped walking as well as driving. Be careful not to hand over your entire bag to the police; rather, if they ask you to show them what you have in your bag, take out every item, item by item. By handing over the bag, one may run the risk of having the police placing something in the bag.

Visa
Mozambique is a rather strict country to visit concerning its visa policies. Obtaining a tourist visa is possible upon arrival in the country, but this is only valid for 30 days. The price for the tourist visa is 78$ US dollars (August 2013). Other available visas include a visa for 6- months, however, this must be obtained before entering Mozambique. Even though one has a visa for 6 months, one is generally required to leave the country every 30th day (once a month) in order to stamp the passport. Another visa that is available is an annual visa. The price of this is 19,200 MZN and the processing time is (at least) one month. During the time of processing, one must apply for an official permit to leave the country if one is to do so. Such a permit must be applied for at the immigration office, and is only applicable for one travel outside of the country (i.e. one return). Visa applications and processes can be frustrating as they often take much longer than what they are supposed to.

Where and What to Eat and Drink


Drinking Water Living in the center of Maputo, drinking the tap water is not recommended. Living outside of the center (and city), however, is a different story, and the water is often fine to drink. This is also the case for smaller cities and towns in Mozambique where the water is okay to drink, and of a much higher quality than what is the case in Maputo. Food There are several options for both what to eat and where to eat in Maputo. Maputo is full of restaurants, cafs, food stores, food markets and sellers along the road. It is generally fine to eat at the markets and to buy food on the street; however, do be careful and always make sure that things (meat and sea food in particular) are well cooked. Vegetables and fruit should be washed, and is also advised to peel them. Cafs Maputo is full of small cafs where they serve coffee and small Portuguese inspired pastries. A lot of the cafs are located in Baixa and in 13

Bairro Cetral, and some of these are Cantina do Brasil, Parque des profesores, twingo and super twingo. Restaurants There are a lot of restaurants in Maputo. Asking where your friends who have lived in Maputo for a long time go is often a good idea. Nevertheless, dont let this restrict you if there are places that they do not know. A lot new places and eateries are springing up in Maputo these days, and visiting them all will require a lot of time. There are restaurants for all wallets and tastes to be found in Maputo. To find the exact addresses, search for the restaurants online. Mundos Popular among foreigners. Pizzas, drinks and breakfast all day. Located on the corner of Eduardo Mondlane and Av. Julius Nyerere, in central Polana Piratas Pizza, pasta and seafood. 2 for 1 different deals every Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday. Located in Av. Julius Nyerere, in central Polana Dolce Vita Sushi, sandwiches and drinks May play very loud music, especially during the weekends. Located in Av. Julius Nyerere, in central Polana Moksha Indian 14

Located in Av. Julius Nyerere, in central Polana Galaxy Indian This is among the favorites! There are two Galaxies in Maputo, one close to COOP and Elvis Bar, and the other close to Nucleo DArte in Polana. None of the two serve alcoholic beverages. The food at Galaxy is somewhat cheaper than at Moksa. Sagres Sea food Location: Av. Marginal 4272, Costa do Sol Centro Cultural Franco Moambicana (CCFM) This place is great for lunch, however, food is available all day. Instituto Cultural Moambique-Alemanha (ICMA) Open for lunch and with a special lunch menu Pekai's Thai Restaurant Very good lunch and dinner dishes. Reasonable prices. Located close to Polana on 502/8 Av. Francisco O. Magumbwe Mimmos Italian inspired Located three different places, (1) in 24. De Julho (2) In Av. Vladimir Lenine and (3) In the Maputo Shopping center

Xima Meat, hot dogs, hamburgers, pommes frites and ice-cream. Located in Alto Mae, on the corner of Eduardo Mondlane Zambeziana Traditional Zambezi chicken (cooked with coconut milk). It is located in Av. Mao Tse Tung, and is situated close to the corner of Av. Vladimir Lenine Dhow Brunch, lunch and after- work drinks. This is a newer and more global flavor and European inspired restaurant. In addition to being a restaurant, it is also a boutique that sells antiques, and where every object has a story. It is a fancier and more expensive restaurant than the others mentioned, but has an amazing view and delicious food. Located in Polana, close to Museu Food markets There are several. Some of these include (1) the Feira Popular in 25 de Setembro; (2) Mercado Janet, on the corner of Av. Vladimir Lenine and Mao Tse Tung and (3) Mercado Central, downtown in Baixa 15

Religion
Mozambique and Maputo is full of people with different religious beliefs. There are a great number of different churches, mosques and temples around in the city. Despite the fact that there are a lot of different religions present, people live peacefully side by side and are very respecting of each other and each others religion.

Ethnicities
Mozambicans look very different, and the country has throughout history been a destination for Europeans (e.g. Portuguese), Asians (e.g. Indians), Africans from neighboring countries as well as people from all over the world. Today, there are many Chinese and South Koreans in particular coming to Mozambique, and the result of all these international immigrants and visitors is a country full of mixed races and ethnicities.

Corruption
Corruption is a big problem in Mozambique, and can be found on all levels in the society.

Banks and Cash versus Card


It is always advisable to carry cash instead of card as many places do not accept cards. Taxis and other means of transportation generally only accept cash, and some restaurants, though not all, also only accept cash. There are a lot of ATMs located all around the city, and most of the ATMs accept visa cards. In general they accept visa cards, and something called 24. (24 punto). The only ATM that accepts Mastercard is Barclays. How much you can withdraw from the ATM at once varies between the different banks. Whereas some ATMs allow you to take out up to 10,000 MZN (Barclays), there are others where the maximum amount is 3,000 MZN (e.g.

Moza). Furthermore, it is important to remember that one is usually charged a percentage (a price) for every time one takes out cash from the ATM. Banks in Mozambique includes: Barclays, BCI, First National Bank (FNB) and Millenium BIM. ATMs are located throughout the city of Maputo, and also in any other bigger city in the country there is usually one of more ATMs. That being said, do not take it for granted as there are places that are much visited by tourists, such as Tofo, where there are no ATMs. Consequently, do always carry some cash. In Maputo there are several banks located along streets such as Av. Karl Marx, Eduardo Mondlane, 24 de Julho, Julius Nyerere and 25 de Setembro.

Pharmacies
There are a lot of pharmacies in Maputo (and in Mozambique), and they can be found by looking for the green cross used in several countries. A lot of medicines that one is often required a prescription for in Norway can be bought over the counter in Mozambique.

What Medicines to Take


Malaria pills: Necessary in Maputo? Malaria is a big problem in Mozambique, and traveling to Mozambique one is usually recommended to take Malaria pills. The two most common types are Malrone and Lariam. Lariam is generally the better option for longer stays (several months and more), and Malrone is the most common option for travelers and tourists (however, often not recommended to use for more than a month at the time). Malrone is the most expensive of the two, but is also known to cause less problems than Lariam. Talk to your doctor what is the best option for you. Having said that Malaria is a big problem in Mozambique, Maputo is generally said to be more or less malaria free. Maputo is quite open and windier than many places in Mozambique, much due to its location next to the ocean. Moreover, living in apartments, something that is very common in Maputo, and above the second floor, greatly reduces the chance of being bitten by malaria mosquitos. Consequently, if you intend only to stay in Maputo, taking malaria pills is not as important and necessary as it is if you intend to travel around, visiting beaches and other places in the country. Stomach issues Stomach problems are very normal when traveling. This is often due to bacteria floras in 16

Hospitals and Medical Centers in Case of Emergency


There are several hospitals in Maputo, private as well as public. The private are much more expensive than the public, but the lines are shorter, the waiting time is also significantly less, and they are far less crowded. Having said this, the public hospitals are good, and they are efficient. If feeling ill (i.e. not an emergency), going to the public hospitals, such as Hospital Central, is just fine. It is necessary to fill out some paper work (with name, age, telephone number etc.) to be attended, and one must also pay a fee of 5 MZN several times as one sees different nurses/doctors. Medication is available, and the fee is generally 5 MZN also for this. The government subsidies the medicines and has made an effort to make hospitals available for all, something that explains the low costs.

the food and water that are different from the ones the body has gotten used to living in another place/country. It is advisable to buy pills for this at the pharmacy before leaving your country, and starting taking these pills a few days before departure. If you still get stomach issues and/or diarrhea, seeking help at the hospital is advisable. What medicines to bring, and what can easily be accessed? Bring personal medicines that you need prescription for. Pain killers, anti-malaria drugs, birth control and antibiotics can all be accessed easily in Mozambique. However, if you are allergic to certain medicines etc., the safest is to bring medicines from your home country that you already know.

verified copy as you are handing in your copy (or copies), visa and passport and then (2) wait at the second desk for the people working in the office to call your name. When your name is called you will have a stamp on your copy. What they do here is stamping your copy to show that it is a rightful copy. If the police or other authorities ask to see your papers when you are out, you should show them the stamped documents. If they tell you that this is not enough (something that is a lie), you should say that if this is the case, you will come with them to the police station. They might try to get a bribe, but bribing is never a good idea. Always stay calm, patient, and be polite and respectful.

Cell Phones
a. Where to buy a phone Cellphones can be bought at the main offices to Vodacom or Mcel. Vodacom has one main office in Karl Marx, very close to the AIESEC MC residence, and another in the Baixa, on the street Av. 25 de Setembro. You need your visa and passport in order to buy a sim card. It is usually good to have a friend/someone who speaks Portuguese with you as the people working in the telephone companies offices often do not speak any English. b. How to activate your card You should get a friend /someone who speaks Portuguese to help you with this as the instructions are only in Portuguese. It is advisable to do this when you are in the office where you bought the sim card in case that you have any problems. 17

Having Your Papers in Order


In Mozambique you are always required to carry your documents on you and wherever you go. Carrying your passport on you is never advisable; you should consequently obtain a copy of it instead. Having a normal copy is not enough; the copy has to be legally verified and stamped by the Mozambican authorities. To get this done you need to: (a) bring your passport and visa to a place where they make copies. There are several such places in Maputo, and you can often get this done places where they sell paper and school/office equipment, kiosks or where they take passport photos. After obtaining a copy, you must bring the copy (or copies) as well as your real passport and visa to a certifying office located in Eduardo Mondlane, between Karl Marx and close to Alto Mae (ask for the exact location from someone there). This is an office where there are two posts. Here you must (1) pay the fee for obtaining a legally

c. What kind of phone to have The cheaper and more common your phone is, the less likely you are to have it stolen. Moreover, there are still not a lot of free wifi zones in Maputo, so having a phone with wifi is not as important as it is many other places in the world.

Where to Buy Food


There are lots of markets as well as food shops in Maputo. Fruit, vegetables, white bread and nuts can generally be bought on the street. The supermarkets are usually small and quant supplying you with the basics. If you wish to go to a one of the bigger supermarkets, they are located just outside of the city center (Game, Super Spar, PicknPay). Some of the food shops are: Super market: Spar Interfranca, on 24. De Julho Another store close to Mimmos on 24. De Julho Several on Eduardo Mondlane, between Polana and Karl Marx Super Twingo on Av. Karl Marx

Where to Buy Clothes


Buying clothes in Maputo can be a frustrating task. Clothes are very often really expensive, and finding basic clothing of comfortable and natural material (cotton, linen etc.) can be difficult. A lot of the people living in Maputo do their shopping in South Africa, or in shops where the goods sold are imported from South Africa. Nevertheless, there are quite a lot of clothing stores, and these can be found along the streets of 24. De Julho, Eduardo Mondlane, Av. Mao Tse Tung, Av. Vladimir Lenine, Polana Shopping, Maputo Shopping and at markets such as Janet (on the corner of Av. Vladimir Lenine and Av. Mao Tse Tung), Xipamanini (in the outskirts of the city, but where a lot of the chapas go) and Mercado Central (in the Baixa). The traditional capulana (African textile) can be bought in several locations, but a good place to find it for a reasonable price is at a place called Casa do Elefante in Baixa, on Av. 25 de Setembro. Tailors at the markets (e.g. Janet and Mercado Central) as well as on several locations in the bairros, can help you to sew the capulanas into clothes. The Parque das Continuadores, (several entrances, among these one on Av. Mao Tse Tung) is another place to buy traditional clothing or find someone who can help you to sew your capulana into clothes.

Temperatures and Weather


Mozambique is a big and long country, and the climate consequently varies from one place to the other. Nevertheless, in general, it is hot. The Maputenses generally talk about two seasons, winter and summer. The summers are very hot! December and January can be full of rain, and consequently also be very humid due to the hot temperatures. During the winter, the nights can be freezing, and it is necessary to sleep with a duvet (wool/big blanket). It is also advisable to have long pants and sweaters/jackets with long sleeves.

What to Bring
Choosing what to bring and what not to bring can be difficult. However, bringing basics can be a good advice. Moreover, bring good shoes. As 18

previously mentioned, prices are generally high in Mozambique and the selection of goods is usually slim picking. It is therefore advisable to bring the things you would like to have with you, instead of thinking of buying them there. This includes articles such as electronics, a quality camera and travel gear (flash light, travel sheet, microfiber towel etc.). Concerning clothes, it is advisable to bring practical clothes (i.e. that fit the season) such as work-clothes and going out at night clothes. During the colder months, layers are usually the most practical as its quite cold during the night, but high temperatures during the day.

The beach in Ponta DOuro is long and full of options. Jet skis, diving equipment (and tours), surfing boards (and classes) and more can be found here. Chefinas (Xefinas) This island is located close to Maputo, and can be seen from Costa do Sol. However, getting there can be a bit tricky. There are sailboats along Costa do Sol, and in order to get to Chefinas, it is necessary to arrange with some of the fishermen to transport you over. It is a perfect day trip from Maputo. If traveling in bigger groups, there are also tour companies that arrange tours to Chefinas (see http://www.danatours.net/)

Weekend Trips and Shorter Travels: Where to Go and How to Get There
Ponta DOuro Getting there: There is a dirt road between Catembe and Ponta DOuro. There are chapas going from Catembe every day, but the earlier you go, the better is your chance of getting there faster as chapas run more frequently in the early morning. Try to go well before 9 am. Chapas start running from around 5 am. Getting to Catembe you take the ferry from the ferry terminal in Baixa, close to Maputo Shopping. The chapa ride is about 4-5 hours from Catembe, and depending on the passengers and the driver, it often stops on the South African border. The cost from Catembe to Ponta DOuro is (usually around) 350 MZN. Ponta DOuro is full of hotels and hostels; however, it is also a very popular destination, often crowded with South Africans and Mozambican holiday guests, and bookings are advisable.

The beach at Chefinas Island.

Inhaca Island Inhaca is an island about two hours away from Maputo by boat/ferry. In order to get to Inhaca, there are two main options. The most common (and cheaper) is to take the public ferry. This ferry leaves from the ferry terminal in Baixa, 19

only a couple of minutes on foot away from the Maputo Shopping centre. The ticket is between 200-400 Meticales each way. The second option is the faster Vodacom ferry. This leaves from another terminal, about five minutes on foot away from the public ferry terminal. The Vodacom ferry is usually less crowded and faster, however, the price of a ticket is significantly higher. A roundtrip ticket with the Vodacom ferry is 1750 MZN (see http://www.inhacaferry.co.za/)

Macaneta Beach

The beach on Inhaca Island

Macaneta The Macaneta beach is located on the mainland, and it is the closest beach to Maputo. The beach is about one hour away from Maputo (however, with traffic this might be significantly more), and the journey includes a ferry ride as well as the last kilometers in order to reach the beach are on a rather bumpy dirt road. Going to Macaneta beach using public transportation, one must take a chapa until the ferry. Then, take the ferry across the river, and on the other side of the river, arrange with some of the drivers to take you to the beach. If possible, it is advisable to do so in advance, as there might be that there are no available drivers to take you, and walking from the ferry to the beach will be very far (several hours).

Tofo Many of the people who come to Tofo never leave. It is a truly magic place, full of adventures as well as adventurers. There are kilometers and kilometers of beach, possibilities to go diving, surfing, jet skiing, or just tanning and chilling. The choice is yours! Furthermore, there are quite a few hostels and hotels in Tofo, despite the rather small village it actually is. It is said to have some of the best diving in the world, and divers are attracted to this place from all over the planet. Food is fresh and great, and it is up to you if you choose to buy food at the marked and cook yourself, eat at the marked (cheap), or visit some of the restaurants in Tofo. One restaurant that is absolutely amazing is called Tofo Tofo. Getting to Tofo is fairly easy. There are several bus companies that go daily from Maputo to Tofo, this includes the South African bus company Intercape, a reliable company with air condition on the buses. Moreover, there are daily chapas (minibuses) going between Fatimas hostel in Maputo and Fatimas hostel in Tofo. All buses (more or less) leave in the early morning. Taking Fatimas shuttle is cheaper (about 300- 400MZN), and taking Intercape is about 600MZN. However, whereas the shuttle from Fatima takes you directly from the center of Maputo to the center in Tofo, traveling with Intercape (or any other public bus or chapa) you 20

have to get off in Maxixe, take the ferry between Maxixe and Inhambane (10MZN, and about 20 minutes) and a chapa from Inhambane to Tofo (about 30MZN, and 30 minutes). The bus between Maxixe/Tofo and Maputo takes about 7 hours. Inhambane Inhambane city is the capital of the Inhambane region. It was one of the first settlements of traders and foreign settlers in Mozambique. Inhambane is known as the terra da boa gente, in English, The Land of Good People. It is a beautiful city with old colonial buildings and a much loved market. Inhambane is located about 7,5 hours away from Maputo, and 30 minutes from Tofo.

to snorkel, dive and explore the coral reefs and rich marine life and vegetation. Day trips are arranged from Vilanculos and information is easy to obtain from the hostel, hotel or B&B. There is also an information office in the center of Vilanculos. Other activities such as horseback riding can also be arranged from Vilanculos.

View from the Bazaruto Island

Ladies walking in Inhambane

Vilanculos and the Bazaruto Archipelagio These are both amazing and very beautiful places! The bus between Maputo and Vilanculos takes about 10 hours. There is also an airport in Vilanculos. The Bazaruto Archipelago is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Getting from Vilanculos to the island of Bazaruto is possible with the traditional dhow sailboats as well as small motor boats. It is also possible to fly, but this is very expensive. There are several islands in addition to Bazaruto, and they are all worth the visit, and beautiful places 21

View from Vilanculos, the picture is taken during low tide

Krger National Park, South Africa The Krger Park in South Africa is a fantastic place to visit for a weekend or several days. There are a great number of lodges inside the park as well as outside. Many people also choose to stay in the city of Nelspruit, something that is often much cheaper. Tours are generally arranged from the hostels/hotels; however it might be smart to book in advance as the park can be very busy during the weekends and holidays (especially in winter).

There are daily buses and chapas between Maputo and Nelspruit, and the trip takes about 3 hours. It is necessary to stop at the border between Mozambique and South Africa, and in order to escape a crowded border, traveling early in the morning is good.

Moreover, there are lots of wild horses and a riding center called Kaapsehoop Horse Trails that offers riding trips from one hour up until several days. A combination of Nelspruit and Kaapsehoop is a great combination for a weekend trip.

Zebras in Krger National Park

Rocky landscape in Kaapsehoop Swaziland Visit Swaziland if you have the opportunity! It is close to Maputo, and one of the last absolute monarchies in the world. The people are friendly and polite, and the language is English and Swazi. Even though it is located very close to Mozambique, the geography as well as the culture and the demography is very different. Observing while on the road, there appears to be much more livestock and farming in comparison to what is the case in Mozambique. There are several buses and chapas going between Maputo and Swaziland every day. Furthermore, there are many well-known national parks in Swaziland, and it is a good place to watch wildlife and game. The currency is Swazi rand as well as South African rands. Whereas South African rands can be used in Swaziland, Swazi rands cannot be used in South Africa. The conversion rate is the same.

Nelspruit and Kaapsehoop, South Africa As already mentioned in the section above (section h.), there are daily buses between Maputo and Nelspruit. A lot of Maputenses come to Nelspruit to do their shopping of clothes, shoes etc., as the selection is much wider and the prices lower than what is the case in Mozambique. There are several big malls in Nelspruit to go shopping. Kaapsehoop, however, is a small village without any shops at all. It is located 25 kilometers away from Nelspruit, and is the perfect get away if you are looking for some peace and quiet, beautiful nature, great restaurants and a new experience. There are a few beautiful and unique lodges and B&Bs in the area of Kaapsehoop, and the hosts of most of these are very helpful and friendly. Many of the places will pick you up if you arrive in Nelspruit. Kaapsehoop is a great place if you like the outdoors, and there are many hiking and bouldering opportunities here. 22

Whereas few Mozambicans wear shorts, it is not a problem doing so on your spare time; in the office, however, pants are preferable. As a foreigner, you will most likely call for more attention the less clothes that you are wearing.

Book Shops
On the road in Swaziland, driving from Maputo to Swaziland takes about 2-3 hours

Libreria Universitaria, there are two shops in 24 de Julho Minerva, the oldest bookshop in Maputo, located in Baixa, close to the train station

Festivals
Maputo is full of festivals, and so are also several other neighboring countries. A lot of the festivals in Maputo last for a weekend. There are festivals for all kinds of genres, and there are festivals for all kinds of audience groups. One festival in Swaziland that is a great experience and where a lot of Maputenses go is Bush Fire, an annual event taking place in May/June.

Language Resources
Portuguese language schools: There are several Portuguese language schools as well as private Portuguese language professors that offer Portuguese classes. The Portuguese language institute, Instituto Cames (located in Polana), offers Portuguese courses and the contact information to other places (and teachers) that do in Maputo Other language schools: The German Institute (ICMA) offers classes in Changana, one of the languages most widely spoken in Maputo and the surroundings, as well as German classes. The French Culture Center (CCFM) offers French classes.

A Few Things to Keep in Mind (Be Street Smart)


The Bush Fire Festival in Swaziland

Keep your documents on you Not wear too shiny jewelries Keep a dictionary if you dont speak the language Brig good shoes (people walk a lot)

What to Wear?
Mozambicans are very accepting, and most anything is fine to wear. However, if you are going to an official (public) office, dress well and wear long pants, or skirts below the knee, and tops that cover your shoulders. In general, people dress up when going out in the evening, and they look presentable during the day. 23

Further Readings and Other Resources


Lonely Planet: Mozambique Brandt: Mozambique Utenriksdepartementets landsider: http://www.landsider.no/land/mosambik/ http://www.mozambiquehappenings.co.za/inde x.htm http://wikitravel.org/en/Mozambique

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