Theyyam

Theyyam also known as Kaliyattam, it is a ritual dance popular in north Kerala or the erstwhile Kolathunadu. Theyyam incorporates dance, mime and music and enshrines the rudiments of ancient tribal cultures which attached great importance to the worship of heroes and the spirits of ancestors. Of the over 400 Theyyams performed, the most spectacular ones are those of Raktha Chamundi, Kari Chamundi, Muchilottu Bhagavathi, Wayanadu Kulaveni, Gulikan and Pottan. These are performed in front of shrines, sans stage or curtains, by persons belonging to the Vannan, Malayan and other related castes. 'Thudangal' (the beginning) and 'Thottam' (the invocation) are the introductory rituals of the Theyyam or the Thira, as it is known in south Malabar. The headgear and other ornamental decorations are spectacular in sheer size and appearance. Karivalloor, Nileswaram, Kurumathoor, Cherukunnu, Ezhom and Kunnathoorpadi in north Malabar are places where Theyyams are performed annually from December to April. At the Parassinikadavu Sri Muthappan Temple in Kannur, Theyyam is preformed on all days.

Kannur, Keecheri, Palottu kavu Theyyam (Medam 1-7) When14 20 Apr 2013 Where Keecheri DescriptionEvery year in April Kannur, Keecheri, Palottu kavu Theyyam (Medam 1-7) Last two days important Theyyams: Vishnumurthy, Puliyoor Kali, Puthiya Bhagavathy, Palot Daivam & other Kannur, Athiyadam Palottu kavu Theyyam (Medam 1-6) When14 19 Apr 2013 Where Payangadi DescriptionEvery year in April Kannur, Athiyadam Palottu kavu Theyyam (Medam 1-6) Last two days important Theyyams: Vishnumurthy, Puliyoor Kali, Puthiya Bhagavathy, Palot Daivam & other Kannur, Kunhimangalam, Malliyot Palottu kavu Theyyam (Medam 1-5) When14 18 Apr 2013 Where Kunhimangalam DescriptionEvery year in April Kannur, Kunhimangalam, Malliyot Palottu kavu Theyyam (Medam 1-5) Last two days important Theyyams: Vishnumurthy, Puliyoor Kali, Puthiya Bhagavathy, Palot Daivam & other theyyams http://www.natgeotraveller.in/magazine/journeys/crouching-tigers,-hidden-dragons Theyyam, a ritual performance that originates in the North Malabar region of Kerala. Eight years of information gathering and an evocative piece by William Dalrymple later, I finally boarded a train from Bengaluru to Kannur one balmy December night, intent on finding the men who go into trances and transform themselves into forest and ancestor spirits, mythical heroes and flamboyant toddy-consuming gods who leap through fire, roll on burning coal, and accept blood sacrifices of live chickens. I was intrigued by and determined to

witness this transformation from man to deity. And while the pantheon of Theyyam gods is infinitely large, I was particularly fascinated by the terrifying Bhagavathy, an embodiment of the primal feminine energy that manifests itself in the bodies of men.
Feb: Finally a friendly local points me towards the Parassini Kadavu Temple on the banks of the palmfringed Vallapattanam River where, 16 km from Kannur, I watch yet another Muthappan Vellattam, standing beside bare-chested men in mundus and dusky women in white-and-gold saris. The next day, in the dim light of dawn, the lithe, oiled bodies of the novices at the Kerala Kalaripayattu Academy near Azhikode twist themselves into impossible physical postures (vadivus) that are said to embody the primal essence of animals. The secrets of Kalaripayattu, Keralas ancient martial art form, are said to have been handed down by Sage Parasurama and taken to the Far East by the Pallava prince, Bodhidharma. As students leap high, sparring with swords and short wooden sticks on the red earth floor, KPA Kader, the academys general secretary, tells me that many Theyyam artistes incorporate the physically demanding martial art form into their training, which often begins as early as the age of six or seven. The mental, physical, and spiritual preparations before a Theyyam are also intense. The performers follow a strict code of conduct, including celibacy and abstinence from alcohol and non-vegetarian food for 41 days before a performance, purifying themselves for the consecration of the deity within their body. Theyyams reflect mans intricate relationship with nature. Not only are most performances conducted deep within the forest, but the face paint and costumes are derived from flowers, seeds, coconut leaves and bamboo. Many deities are also associated with specific flowers or plants. Later that day, over a meal of fried masala pomfret, mussels, and spicy squid served with Kerala rice and sambar at the famous Othens Restaurant on Onden Road, I am directed to Edakkad village. The Bhagavathy Kshetram there

TRACKING DOWN THEYYAMS GETTING TO KANNUR AND BEYOND Distance by train: Calicut (3 hours/100 km Distance by bus: Overnight buses are available from Calicut (93 kmLOCAL TRANSPORT: Buses are available from the Kannur Municipal Bus Stand to neighbouring villages. SEASON While the Theyyam season is from October to May, the best time to visit is between early January and mid-March. THEYYAM-FRIENDLY STAY Palmgrove Heritage Retreat, Mill Road (www.palmgroveheritageretreat.com; 04972703182/2702816; doubles from Rs. 1,500). Kanangara Beach Resort & Homestay, Adi Kadalayi (kanangrabeachresort@gmail.com; Mohan Das 85473 31517; doubles Rs. 1,500).

Ashokam Beach Resort, Beach Road (www.ayurvedaresort.co.in; Naveen Pavithran 94460 70373; doubles from Rs. 1,500). DIRECTORY District Tourism Promotion Council Office is near the Collectors Office ((0497- 2706336; DTPC Complex, Taluka Office Complex, Kannur 670001). Kerala Folklore Academy (0497 2778090; Kizhakke Kovilakam, Chirakkal, Kannur 670 011; keralafolkacademy.com). Kerala Kalaripayattu Academy (497 2768178/9995183281; Kalari Gramam, Azhikode, Kannur 670009 ; kalarippayatacademy.com). Railway Muthappan Temples Vellattam is often in the afternoon (Next to the Railway Station, Kannur 670007). Parassini Kadavu Temples Vellattam is held around 6 p.m. (16 km from Kannur en route to Thaliparamba).

Start by locating one Kshetram, Kavu (sacred grove) or Kottam and enquire there for other Theyyams in the area. Information is unpredictable. Plans made using online sources can change on the ground. Connecting services from village bus stations to the Kavus may not be available. Try and plan a linear route to save time as distances can be long and tiring. Most sacred groves do not allow video and still photography.