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Harrys Cosmeticology
Eighth Edition

Edited by Martin M. Reiger, Ph.D.

Chemical Publishing Co., Inc.

Chemical Publishing Co., Inc., 743 Western Avenue, Gloucester, MA 01930 www.chemcial-publishing.com www.chemicalpublishing.net

2000, by Chemical Publishing Co., Inc. All rights reserved. 8th edition, 2000 This book is protected by copyright. No part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means; electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data ISBN 0-8206-0372-4

Harry, Ralph Gordon, 1908[Cosmeticology] Harrys cosmeticology-8th ed. Volume 1/edited by Martin M. Rieger. p.cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 0-8206-0372-4 1. Cosmetics. I. Title: Cosmeticology. II. Rieger, Martin, M., 1920- III. Title. TP983 H32 2000 668.55-dc21 00-035900 Made in the United States of America

Contents
Foreword List of Contributors by Chapter Alphabetical List of Contributors Chapter Contributors vii x xi xiii 1

1 2 3 4 5

PART ONE: THE SUBSTRATES

Skin The Hair The Nails Anatomy and Physiology of Ocular Tissue The Mouth and Oral Care

3 39 71 79 87 109 111 129 175

PART TWO: FORMULATION APPROACHES AND REQUIREMENTS

6 7 8 Fundamentals of Cosmetic Product Development: Getting Started Regulatory Requirements for Cosmetic Products Intellectual Property Issues: Patents and Trade Secrets

PART THREE: COMMON INGREDIENTS AND PROCESSES 185

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Surfactants Cosmetic Emulsification Rheological Additives Antioxidants Moisturizers and Humectants Preservation Use of Botanicals in Cosmetics

187 211 235 247 261 273 305

vi

Contents 323 333 349

16 Specialty Lipids 17 Aerosol Technology

PART FOUR: FORMULATION AND PERFORMANCE

18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34

Skin Care Products Miscellaneous Skin Care Products: Skin Bleaches and Others Sunscreens Antiperspirants and Deodorants Antiacne and Oily Skin Products Face, Body and Hair Masks and Scrubs Skin Cleansing Products Shaving Preparations Color Cosmetics Nail Polishes Specialty Nail Products Shampoos Hair Setting Products Hair Colorants Permanent Waving, Hair Straightening and Depilatories Oral Care Products Safety and Performance

351 393 415 437 459 471 485 501 523 573 589 601 635 669 695 725 755 785

PART FIVE: PRODUCTION

35 The Manufacture of Cosmetics 36 Packaging 37 Stability Index

787 875 889

901