SHANNON BURNS-TRAN

style wise
A Practical Guide to Becoming a Fashion Stylist

stylewise

A Practical Guide to Becoming a Fashion Stylist

stylewise
International Academy of Design and Technology, Tampa, Florida

A Practical Guide to Becoming a Fashion Stylist

Shannon Burns-Tran

Fairchild Books New York

Fairchild Books An imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc 175 Fifth Avenue New York NY 10010 USA 50 Bedford Square London WC1B 3DP UK www.fairchildbooks.com First published 2013 Bloomsbury Publishing Inc, 2013 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publishers. No responsibility for loss caused to any individual or organization acting on or refraining from action as a result of the material in this publication can be accepted by Bloomsbury Publishing Inc or the author. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. 2012932246 ISBN:PB:978-1-60901-160-4 Typeset by Tom Helleberg Cover Design by Carly Grafstein Cover Art Courtesy of WWD/Kyle Ericksen Printed and bound in the United States of America

Contents
Preface xvii Acknowledgments xx Part I Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Part II Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter Chapter 6 7 8 9 10 1 2 3 4 5 The Fashion Styling Profession1 Introduction to Fashion Styling 3 Styling for Print 27 Styling for the Entertainment Industry 57 Image Management 79 Career Diversity 119 Getting Established As a Fashion Stylist135 Fashion Lexicon: Terms, Icons, History, and Inspiration 137 Portfolio Building, Branding, and Networking 171 Preparing for a Test Shoot 193 Putting It to the Test: Performing a Test Shoot 221 Business 101 for Freelance Stylists 239

Glossary 259 Credits 269 Index 271

Extended Contents
Preface xvii Acknowledgments xx

Part I:

The Fashion Styling Profession 1

Chapter 1: Introduction to Fashion Styling 3

Chapter Topics Call Sheet 3 What Is Fashion Styling? 3 The Influences of Stylists 4 Misconceptions About Styling 6 What Fashion Styling Entails 7 Stylists Knowledge 7 Key Players at a Photo Shoot 8 The Three Main Specialties of Fashion Styling 10 Print Styling 10 Entertainment Industry 10 Image Management 12 Diversifying into Other Areas of Styling 12 Runway Styling 12 Food Styling 13 Prop Styling 14 Unexpected Places Where Stylists Work 16 What It Means to Be Freelance vs. Salaried 16 Salaried Stylists 16 Freelance Stylists 17 Personality Traits That a Stylist Needs to Succeed 18 Are You Self-Motivated and Self-Reliant? 18

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Do You Have Good Verbal, Written, and Visual Communication Skills? 18 Do You Have Good Personal Style? Is It Memorable? 18 Do You Enjoy Teamwork? 20 Do You Have People Skills? Are You Easy to Talk To? 20 Are You Adaptable? 20 Ten How-To Skills a Fashion Stylist Needs to Possess 20 How to Spot Trends 22 Recommended Reading: Eight Magazines and Newspapers 23 Summary and Review 24 Key Terms 24 Review Questions 25 Learning Activities 25 Resources 26

Chapter 2: Styling for Print 27

Chapter Topics Call Sheet 27 Print Styling 101 27 Editorial Styling 29 Lifestyle Styling 31 How Much Do Print Stylists Make? 32 Fashion Magazine Timetables 33 The Fashion Time Line 33 Preparation: A Key Responsibility 35 Preliminary Meetings 35 Establishing a Story 36 Pulling Clothing for an Editorial Shoot 36 Pulling Clothing for a Lifestyle Shoot 38 Fashion PR and Why It Matters to Stylists 38 Fashion Public Relations Agencies 39 How the System Works 39 The Fashion Calendar 40 The Day Before the Shoot 42 Cheat Sheets 42 Stylist Kit Check 44 Masking Shoes 44

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 Ironing/Steaming Clothing 46 The Day(s) of the Shoot 46 Dress for Function 48 Call Times and When Shooting Takes Place 48 Shoot Etiquette 48 Keeping Track of the Clothing 48 Key Players on Set 50 The Day After the Shoot 52 Well-Known Print Stylists 53 Summary and Review 52 Key Terms 54 Review Questions 54 Learning Activities 55 Resources 55

Chapter 3: Styling for the Entertainment Industry 57

Chapter Topics Call Sheet 57 Wardrobe Styling for Film and Television 57 Wardrobe Stylists Are Not Costume Designers 58 Areas in Television Where Wardrobe Stylists Work 59 Major Cities Where Wardrobe Stylists Find Employment 59 Mean Income for Wardrobe Stylists 61 Unions and Membership Societies 62 The Chain of Command 63 The Phases of Production 65 Industry Tools and Lingo 66 Getting the Green Light 66 Preproduction 66 Production 68 Postproduction 68 Television Commercial Production 68 Anatomy of a Wardrobe Department 70 Duplicate Costumes 71 Understanding Fabric Care and Knowing How to Sew 71 The Green Room 72

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 Buying vs. Renting Wardrobe 72 Rack Dividers 72 Costume Bible 72 Wrap 73 Continuity 73 The Importance of the Script 74 The Importance of Staying Informed 74 Summary and Review 74 Key Terms 76 Review Questions 76 Learning Activities 77 Resources 78

Chapter 4: Image Management 79

Chapter Topics Call Sheet 79 Image Consulting 101 79 Personal Stylists 82 Celebrity Stylists 82 Concierge Service and the Stylist 84 A Feel for Fabric 85 Education and Certification 86 What Every Image Consultant Must Bring to the Client 86 The StylistClient Relationship 86 Recommended Personal Style Books 88 Line Direction in Clothing 89 Basic Elements and Principles of Design 90 Understanding Body Types 93 Understanding Personal Style 96 Personal Style Self-Assessment Quiz (for Women) 103 Personal Style Self-Assessment Quiz (for Men) 106 Understanding Color 109 Downtime: What to Do Between Jobs 110 Wardrobe Essentials 112 Dos and Donts of Personal Appearance for Women 115 Dos and Donts of Personal Appearance for Men 115

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Summary and Review 115 Key Terms 116 Review Questions 116 Learning Activities 117 Resources 118

Chapter 5: Career Diversity 119

Chapter Topics Call Sheet 119 Why Fashion Stylists Diversify 119 Runway Styling 121 Off-Figure, On-Figure, and Digital Styling 123 Prop Styling 124 Companies that Hire On- and Off-Figure Stylists 125 Food Styling 126 Food Stylists Kit Checklist 127 Educational Resources for Food Stylists 127 Visual Merchandising 128 Fashion Styling Using Digital Media 130 Summary and Review 131 Key Terms 132 Review Questions 132 Learning Activities 132 Resources 133

Part II:

Getting Established As a Fashion Stylist 135

Chapter 6: Fashion Lexicon: Terms, Icons, History, and Inspiration 137

Chapter Topics Call Sheet 137 Why It Is Important to Be Fluent in Fashion 137 Keeping Up with Trends: Past, Present, and Fashion Forward 138 Must-See Fashion Websites 139 Modern-Day Fashionistas and Fashionistos 140 Street-Fashion Inspiration Websites 141

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 Starting with the Basics: The Anatomy of Apparel 140 The Anatomy of Fabric 142 The Anatomy of Tops 144 The Anatomy of Bottoms 145 The Anatomy of Undergarments 146 The Anatomy of Accessories 148 Putting It All Together: Design Terms 149 The ABCs of Fashion 151 The Classics: Fashion Icons and Timeless Garments 152 Timeless Garments and Their Origins 152 Screen Classics and Other Cultural Inspirations 154 Social Groups Who Influence (or Have Influenced) Style 154 Must-See Movies 155 A Short List of Historic Fashion Icons 160 Shop Talk: Terminology of the Shoot 166 Summary and Review 168 Key Terms 168 Review Questions 168 Learning Activities 169 Resources 170

Chapter 7: Portfolio Building, Branding, and Networking 171

Chapter Topics Call Sheet 171 Tools of the Trade 171 Marketing Tools 172 Portfolio Basics 173 The Rules of the Portfolio 174 Portfolio and Portfolio Cover Sources 175 Digital Portfolios 178 Experience: The Way to Build a Portfolio 178 Assisting for Job Experience 178 Places to Find Testing and Assisting Opportunities 180 The Etiquette of Assisting 181 Internships 181

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 Websites, Business Cards, and Comp Cards 181 Websites 182 Do-It-Yourself Website Design Sources 184 Business Cards 185 Sources for Downloadable Fonts 188 Comp Cards 189 Summary and Review 190 Key Terms 190 Review Questions 191 Learning Activities 191 Resources 192

Chapter 8: Preparing for a Test Shoot 193

Chapter Topics Call Sheet 193 Testing and Assisting: How to Build a Portfolio and Gain Experience 193 Testing for Portfolio Photos 194 How to Prepare for a Test Shoot 195 Assembling the Test Team 196 Planning the Theme in Preliminary Meetings 199 Inspiration and Ideas for Test Shoots 199 Using a Storyboard to Communicate Visually 200 Sourcing Clothing 201 Sourcing Props 203 Props to Avoid 205 Prepping the Stylist Kit 205 Stylist-Kit Supply Online Sources 206 Writing Up Cheat Sheets 216 Final Wardrobe Prep the Day Before the Test Shoot 217 Summary and Review 218 Key Terms 218 Review Questions 218 Learning Activities 219 Resources 220

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Chapter 9: Putting It to the Test: Performing a Test Shoot 221

Chapter Topics Call Sheet 221 Executing a Test Shoot 221 Dress for Function, Not for Fashion 221 Call Times and When Shooting Takes Place 222 Proper Professional Etiquette 223 A Few Good Rules of Proper Etiquette on the Shoot 224 From Sunrise to Sunset: On the Job 225 Why Its Necessary to Know about More than Fashion 226 Photography Basics 226 Fifteen Famous Fashion Photographers, Past and Present 228 Composition Rules for Photography 231 Hair and Makeup Basics 232 Posing a Model 233 Hair- and Makeup-Supply Checklist for Test Shoots 234 The Day After a Paid Shoot 235 Invoicing 235 Returning Pulls 235 Writing and Submitting Editorial Credits 236 Restocking Kit and Tidying Work Space 236 Keeping Track of the Clothing 236 Summary and Review 237 Key Terms 237 Review Questions 237 Learning Activities 238 Resources 238

Chapter 10: Business 101 for Freelance Stylists 239

Chapter Topics Call Sheet 239 What Beginning Stylists Need to Know 239 Essential Business Documents 239 Confirmation, Contract, Booking Agreement 240 Pull Letter 242 Invoice 242 Voucher 244 Checklist of Business Documents 244

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 Agency Representation vs. Freelance 245 Talent Agencies That Represent Stylists 246 Building a Freelance Business Plan 246 Elements of a Stylists Business Plan 246 Office-Supply Checklist 252 Studio, Office, and Financials 253 Creating Pull Lists 254 Insurance 255 IRS Rules 255 Summary and Review 256 Key Terms 257 Review Questions 257 Learning Activities 257 Resources 258 Glossary 259

Credits 269 Index 271

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Preface
StyleWise: A Practical Guide to Becoming a Fashion Stylist offers a comprehensive approach to help aspiring stylists understand what it takes to establish a career in styling. It not only answers questions that many students commonly ask about styling but also goes many steps further by addressing feedback received from fashion graduates with established careers. The result is a book that presents the variety of career options that styling encompasses, shows how to establish a career in styling, and lays out the base knowledge that stylists must have in order to work in the industry. StyleWise can be used as a tool for an aspiring stylist to build an inspired and relevant portfolio. It provides sources of inspiration and prepares and takes the aspiring stylist step-by-step through his or her first shoot and beyond. It includes examples and style content that the reader can carry along throughout his or her career. This book also contains useful information for all fashion students, whether or not they aspire to be stylists, including an exploration of fashion terms, icons, history, and sources of inspiration as well as portfolio building, branding, and networking. Every chapter has specific, real-world information that includes professional resources for stylists and nonstylists alike.

Organization of the Book

StyleWise can be easily integrated into a styling-class curriculum. The organization of the book is based on years of teaching fashion styling to upper-level college students.

Part I: The Fashion Styling Profession

The first half of the book focuses on the different areas of the styling industry. It provides an overview of print styling for magazines, wardrobe styling for film and television, personal styling, and other areas of styling that go

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beyond fashion. It covers the ins and outs of each area of the industry, from understanding fashion season and sourcing to considering a freelance career versus a salaried job for a publication or studio. It will also help each student choose which area he or she might like to work in by keying in to his or her own unique interests and talents. Chapter 1, Introduction to Fashion Styling, provides the reader with an overview of the profession of fashion styling, beginning with what stylists do, progressing through a survey of the main categories of fashion styling, and concluding with an examination of the skills and personality traits that stylists need to succeed. Chapter 2, Styling for Print, covers both professional information and personal tips for the freelance stylist in the areas of magazines, brochures, catalogs, advertisements, and other print media. Chapter 3 takes a similar approach toward Styling for the Entertainment Industry. Chapter 4, Image Management, explores styling clients on an individual basis, focusing primarily upon personal shopping and celebrity styling, while Chapter 5 covers Career Diversity, which include the runway styling and visual merchandising as well as styling for props, sets, food, and the Internet.

Part II: Getting Established As a Fashion Stylist

The second half of the book delves into the details of exactly how to create a portfolio and get started as a freelance stylist. It covers everything from how to organize a photo shoot for the first time to resources for creating a personal website. This half of the book also provides sources of inspiration, and prepares readers by taking them step-by-step through a stylists first shoot and to follow-up activities, as well as gives them a firm foundation in the business basics necessary to find a job and maintain a freelance or salaried career. It includes examples and reference guide/style content that readers can carry with them throughout their careers. Chapter 6, Fashion Lexicon: Terms, Icons, History, and Inspiration, lays out exactly what every fashion stylist needs to bring to the table; this includes the basic fashion terms, awareness of design principles, knowledge of fashion icons from cultural history, familiarity with fashion resources (magazines and blogs), and an idea of where, how, and why it is important to locate sources of inspiration and resources for fashion shoots. The following chapters lay out the nuts and bolts of the business of styling, providing the student with a real-world foundation of what it takes to be a

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successful professional, and walking them through the preparation and stepby-step duties, responsibilities, and troubleshooting tips of an actual test shoot. Business basics are covered in Chapter 7 , Portfolio Building, Branding, and Networking, and Chapter 10, Business 101 for Freelance Stylists, while the test shoot is presented in Chapters 8 and 9, Preparing for a Test Shoot, and Putting it to the Test: Performing a Test Shoot.

Text Features
Tables and Charts
The text includes many tables and charts that summarize key information and resources. Each table has been carefully created for students to quickly and easily reference and continue to use after they have completed the styling course. Examples of this information include styling supply sources, creative do-it-yourself website template services, business card pointers, professional association listings, and much more.

Photo Illustrations and Sample Documents

Throughout all chapters, more than 150 full-color illustrations show tools and techniques of the trade, stylists at work in each of the areas of styling, and sample documents used by both emerging and seasoned stylists at the top of their careers.

Glossary

Comprising terms and concepts that students will encounter in real-world professional settings, the glossary defines each chapters list of Key Terms (bolded in the chapter text). Becoming familiar with these terms will allow the student to hold an educated conversation and negotiate for future jobs.

Chapter Summaries and Reviews

Each chapter ends with a summary for students to review chapter content as well as the list of that chapters Key Terms. It also includes teacher-friendly questions that further encourage students to engage with key points in the text. Instructors can use these chapter questions as weekly assignments with a consistent weekly grading weight or point value.

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Learning Activities

Learning Activities at the end of each chapter provide numerous assignment and project ideas as well. Notably, the Learning Activities at the end of Chapters 8 and 9 offer students the opportunity to prepare for and carry out their very first test shoot, an experience that will launch them into their careers.

Instructors Manual

The Instructors Manual provides more assignments, projects, and class activities. It also provides grading rubrics for the assignments that clearly communicate expectations to students as well as answers to chapter-review questions and tests with answer keys. The tests are photocopy-ready, as are the grading rubrics.

A Solid Foundation for Successful Careers

After reading this book and engaging in the activities that StyleWise offers, students who are motivated and serious about styling should be more than adequately prepared to enter the styling industry and commence an exciting and successful career.

Acknowledgments
I would like to thank the following people for their help and support with this book: Thank you to Robert Phelps, development editor, who was an amazing editor and coach. Your hard work and positive encouragement kept me going! Another big thanks to Jaclyn Bergeron, senior associate acquisitions editor, for all of the support and help with the book, and for helping to organize so much of the reviewer feedback. This book would not have been possible without Olga Kontzias, executive editor, who got it all started. Olga, your help with this project early on made it what it is . . . thank you! Thank you to Linda Feldman, production editor, and NaN Stoelzle, copy editor, for both having

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such a great eye for detail and catching my mistakes. Also, thank you to Sarah Silberg, associate art director; and Avital Aronowitz, photo researcher; for finding so many great images for this book, and Carly Grafstein for creating the wonderful cover design. Sincere thanks, too, for my peer reviewers: Shirley Warren, California State University, Northridge; Jan Haynes, Delta State University; Monir Zandghoreishi, IADT-Seattle; Crystal Green, Art Institute of Chicago; Carolyn Robertson, FIDM Los Angeles; and Michael Londrigan, LIM College. I would also like to thank some people who made all of this possible in the earliest stages. I owe so much to my colleagues from the International Academy of Design and Technology: Nancy McGee, Melody Acree, and Julie Stout. Your guidance and support opened so many wonderful opportunities for me. Last but not least, a huge thank you to all of my students, who made it so much fun to come to work. This book also would not have been possible without the unwavering support from my family. First and foremost, thank you to my husband, Tan, whose love and support make my life as great as it is. Another huge thank you to the women in my life, namely my mom Rebecca, stepmom Debi, and mother-in-law, Que. I really could not have completed the book without your help taking care of the kids so I could work. You are the best and I am so lucky to have you all!

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Part One

The Fashion Styling Profession

Introduction to Fashion Styling

What fashion styling entails The three main types of fashion stylists Other types of stylists outside of fashion What it means to work freelance vs. salaried What personality traits stylists need to have What skills fashion stylists need to have

Chapter Topics Call Sheet

In this chapter you will learn:

What Is Fashion Styling?

Styling is a general term that goes beyond fashion. In the broadest sense, styling is arranging things in a visually pleasing way. It can mean working in varied areas including fashion styling, hair styling, makeup styling, food styling, or prop styling. Within fashion styling, the three main areas are print, the entertainment industry (television and film), and image management (personal styling). Styling is a creative job that has business aspects. It is creative in that the stylist is usually artistically inclined, visually talented, and able to create a stunning image. It is business in that the stylist deals with contracts, paperwork, billing, and satisfying a client s needs. A client is the business, company, or person who hires a stylist for his or her visual expertise. Fashion styling is the process of orchestrating clothing and other fashion products for photo shoots, film shoots, fashion shows, and special events.

It entails finding/coordinating clothing, accessories, and other fashion merchandise, and creating outfits. Fashion merchandise is also sometimes referred to as fashion products. Both terms encompass apparel, shoes, fashion accessories, and small leather goods. Fashion styling doesnt involve designing clothing. It involves putting together existing pieces to make ensembles. It can be done for a variety of purposes including photo shoots, music videos, television commercials, films, special events, or wardrobe makeovers. Fashion stylists devote a lot of time and energy to studying fashion, fashion designers, and retailers. They are well versed in what designers are showing on the runway and what retailers have in stock. In order to do their jobs correctly they need to know what is going on in fashion at any given time, as well as have the ability to draw upon knowledge of fashion history. They are often knowledgeable about trends and are able to identify common themes in each season. A theme occurs when multiple designers are showing the same trend. A good example of a theme is athletic-inspired clothing. This includes tracksuits, race-stripe detailing, and utilitarian embellishments such as clips and large zippers. Sometimes in one season multiple designers will show a theme of athletic-inspired looks on their runways. Each fashion season has multiple themes from many different designers. The stylist should be able to see the big picture for each season, and draw parallels between different designers. (See Figures 1.1ac.)

The Influences of Stylists

Many people dont realize how much our lives are impacted by stylists. Stylists have a hand in every television show or film we watch and every magazine we read. In todays media environment a single image can reach millions of people faster than ever before. Talented stylists are born, and also made. Sometimes fashion is an innate talent, but it is also something that can be studied and improved upon if one is dedicated. Even the best stylists will not evolve without outside influences. Magazines, film, and art are essential viewing for designers and stylists alike. Often stylists are masters at piecing disparate elements together and drawing parallels. They are often visionaries who are highly adept at compiling various influences from fashion, photography, history, cinema, books, and art. All of these inspirations become part of a stylists vocabulary of visual influences, as well explore more in Chapter 6, Fashion Lexicon: Terms, Icons, History, and Inspiration.

part 1 : the fashion styling profession

Figures 1.1ac Sometimes in one season multiple designers might show athletic-inspired looks on their runways. Each fashion season has multiple themes from many different designers.

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Figure 1.2 In this behindthe-scenes photo, the fashion stylist, makeup artist, and photographer are preparing to shoot the model.

Misconceptions About Styling

Many people new to styling might describe the profession as putting outfits together. Often they envision styling as a glamorous job where one can rub shoulders with models and celebrities. They might imagine stylists who get to work with the best designer clothing and the hottest stars. However, this is not the reality for most stylists. A select few do work with the biggest names and have extensive budgets, but most stylists work with lesser-known people and adhere to tight spending caps. Often stylists work with everyday clothing instead of the newest looks. (See Figure 1.2.) Sometimes they work in unexpected and decidedly unglamorous areas. This chapter outlines the ins and outs of styling, and what it takes to succeed.

part 1 : the fashion styling profession

What Fashion Styling Entails

Fashion styling is a business that combines teamwork, creativity, people skills, artistic collaboration, and networking. A stylists job is to provide the proper clothing for a shoot. This includes sourcing (finding), preparing, and returning garments after the shoot is finished. This is a time-consuming and detailed process. Stylists are hired for their expertise and efficiency in getting this job done. A client hires a stylist to work as part of a team that creates an effective image. The client can be anyone from a fashion magazine to a food company, from an office-supply manufacturer to a clothing manufacturer. The rest of the creative team that a client might hire includes an art director, photographer, hair stylist, makeup artist, and, of course, talent. Talent is the person in front of the camera lens. This might be a model, actor, or just an everyday person.

Stylists Knowledge

All fashion stylists have a fundamental love of fashion. Often the best stylists are the ones who see fashion as something fun to play with. The job can be serious and stressful at times. But the fashion itself is fun. Most stylists share some common professional practices. These practices include fashion research, trend interpretation, and professional maintenance. Fashion Research Stylists are constantly researching by looking at clothing in stores and on the Internet. Some lucky stylists attend Fashion Week. Many stylists use websites such as style.com or nymag.com to keep abreast of the runways. Style.com also has a free app for viewing fashion collections and news on tablets or other handheld devices. Stylists also use trend-forecasting sites to get a glimpse of the themes that might be happening in upcoming seasons. Free sites such as fashiontrendsetter.com and weconnectfashion. com show forecasts from different trend services. Paid-subscription sites such as stylesight.com, trendstop.com, and wgsn.com require users to pay for their information. These paid subscriptions can be great resources if they are financially feasible. Whether stylists are members of the audience at the

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Figure 8.3 Key Players at a Photo Shoot

Key Players at a Photo Shoot

The client employs everyone on the shoot. It is the client who pays the bills and must ultimately be pleased with the outcome of the shoot.The amount of client involvement in the hiring process for a shoot varies. Clients are ultimately looking for good promotional photos and they know their target customer better than anyone else. The art director, producer, or production manager is sometimes a freelancer hired by the client. Other times this person is part of the clients in-house staff. It is this persons responsibility to oversee the shoot and communicate the clients wishes. He or she will hire the photographer, who in turn might hire the stylist. The photographer is often responsible for hiring the stylists and talent for a shoot. They will sometimes also have their own assistants. The photographers opinion holds a lot of sway since he or she is the one looking through the camera lens. This is where the stylist falls in the pecking order of the shoot. That means all decisions must pass through the people above before they can go forward. Collaboration should be enjoyable but the stylist should also know that he or she might have to compromise on the creative vision of the shoot. Talent is usually known as the model but can include anyone in front of the camera lens. The talent is there to enhance the product and adjust poses according to direction from the photographer.

The Client

The Art Director

The Photographer

The Stylist

The Talent

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shows or viewing collections online, they are usually taking notes. They study trends, fabrics, silhouettes, and colors. (See Figure 1.3.) Trend Interpretation As stylists research they are interpreting by mentally putting together outfits from a variety of sources. They are always looking for key trend themes that define each season. Sites such as looklet.com and polyvore.com are great for piecing together outfits on a screen. These sites might not always show the exact pieces that are seen on runways, but they are helpful visualization tools for creating looks based on a seasons themes. Professional Maintenance Stylists are constantly striving to maintain their skills, be up on the newest developments in fashion, and stay at the forefront of their profession. Maintenance also includes career networking, continually meeting people who hire stylists, and keeping a studio and office space. They are also consistently maintaining and evolving their personal appearances.

Figure 1.3 It is important for fashion stylists to have an eye for color. Sometimes this means putting together some unexpected combinations. Here pink, red, purple, green, and turquoise work together to create an attentiongetting image.

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The Three Main Specialties of Fashion Styling

There are many avenues to choose from within fashion styling. Overall, styling Areas of Styling can be broken down into three general areas of specialty: print, entertainment industry, and image management. Each of these areas will be explored more in the next few chapters. (See Figure 1.4.)
Figure 1.4

Print Styling

Print styling includes still media such as magazines, billboards, advertisements, catalogs, and other printed marketing materials. Print stylists can work in the fashion industry for fashion magazines, department stores, and clothing catalogs. They can also work for corporate clients such as utility companies and medical companies to create printed marketing materials. Brochures, pamphlets, and print ads are all types of marketing materials that a stylist might have a hand in. Often the most desirable type of print styling job is editorial styling. Editorial styling is the high fashion styling seen in fashion magazines. Often this is the type of styling that aspiring stylists see themselves doing. It tends to be more creative and more cutting-edge.

Entertainment Industry

The entertainment industry is comprised mainly of television and film. It involves character styling for television shows, movies, videos, or commercials. Character styling entails dressing talent who move and talk as opposed to simply posing. Character styling is also called wardrobe styling and takes Fashion Styling
Figure 1.4 Fashion styling can be broken down into three general areas of specialtyprint, entertainment industry, and image managementas well as many other types of styling that go beyond fashion or what may be typically thought of as fashion. Print Entertainment Industry
Lifestyle Character and Wardrobe Styling for Television Series, Television Advertisements, Big-Budget and Independent Films, Music Videos, Television Shopping

Image Management
Personal Shopping, Image Consulting, Celebrity Styling

Other Areas
Runway, Food Styling, Prop Styling

Editorial Fashion Magazines

Advertisements, Catalogues, and Stock Photography

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place within a wardrobe department. Often this stylist might not work with the newest or edgiest fashion; in fact, most television and film characters sport more everyday looks. Character stylists are not to be confused with costume designers. Unlike costume designers, they arent constructing entire garments from scratch. (See Figures 1.5a and b.)

Figures 1.5ab Character stylists sometimes work with edgy fashion, but most television and film characters sport more everyday looks.

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Image Management

Image management encompasses wardrobe consulting, personal shopping, and celebrity styling. Often this type of stylist will help everyday people to either build entire wardrobes or dress for a special event. This stylist is very conscious of body types and which silhouettes best flatter them. They research and interpret clothing with specific clients in mind. Sometimes image consultants are self-employed. Other times they work for retailers and deal with special customers. A good personal shopper for a high-end retailer is capable of selling millions of dollars worth of merchandise a year. This combination of sales and styling makes for a very unique job.

Diversifying into Other Areas of Styling

There are many stylists who work regularly in print and the entertainment industries and dont touch apparel. (See Unexpected Places Where Stylists Work.) Some freelance fashion stylists who live in smaller cities diversify into these other areas to keep their paychecks consistent. In smaller cities, the broader a stylist is, the more he or she might work.

Runway Styling

Runway styling is clearly quite closely related to fashion styling. It also involves consulting with a design house on how to best present its collection. Runway stylists help refine head-to-toe looks, and help designers coordinate accessories with clothing before they hit the runway. Fashion seasons are important to stylists because they dictate the colors, fabrics, and types of clothing that they will be styling. Fashion Weeks are defined every year by the fashion calendar. Twice a year the major four Fashion Weeks happen in the same order starting with New York, then London, then Milan, and lastly Paris. The calendar outlines Fashion Week dates in the individual cities. Runway stylists are especially busy in the month leading up to Fashion Week. Often a designer needs an outside eye when editing a collection for the runway. A stylist can help a designer communicate the overall vision of the season. (See Figure 1.6.)

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Food Styling

Food styling is a huge area of the industry. These stylists are hired to make food look appetizing for menus, billboards, newspaper advertisements, television commercials, and magazines. There is an art to food styling, and many tricks of the trade. Tricks might include using clear acrylic ice cubes in a glass and glycerin water droplets on the outside of a glass to make a drink look cold. Real ice melts and real water droplets wouldnt stay in place long enough to be photographed, especially under hot studio lights. Cooking food for a photo shoot is different than cooking food for a meal. Food must be prepared in different ways to make it look appetizing for the camera. For

Figure 1.6 Garments are steamed backstage before hitting the runway.

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Figure 1.7 Food stylists work with food to make it look appetizing. In this shot tomatoes, olives, mozzarella, and basil are artfully arranged on top of slices of bread. The food stylist added olive oil and ground black pepper to further enhance the image.

example, pasta is often undercooked to look better for the camera. It isnt edible in real life, but it photographs well. Trengrovestudios.com is a good resource for things like faux fruit and ice. (See Figure 1.7 .)

Prop Styling

Prop stylists and set stylists work with objects to help create a setting for a shoot. They might work on the sets of television shows, films, commercials, homecatalog shoots, and magazine shoots. Items that these stylists work with include draperies, furniture, and home accessories. (See Figure 1.8.) Their job is to make sure every item on the set is in place and in the proper condition. The background setting in a shot is as important as the foreground. Creating a believable setting is essential for films, commercials, and television shows alike. (See Figure 1.9.)

Figure 1.8 Prop stylists work with inanimate objects to set a scene. In this photo the drapes and napkins are wrinkle free and carefully arranged. Glasses and dishware are polished to remove any errant smudges.

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Figure 1.9 A stylist should always be scouting shoot locations in the back of his or her mind. An old trailer can provide a great background along with some simple accessories as props.

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Unexpected Places Where Stylists Work

Office-supply or hardware catalogs: Sometimes these catalogs employ stylists to arrange their products for the photographer. These stylists are responsible for making sure that there is no dirt, fingerprints, or other debris in the shot. Restaurant menus: Often if a restaurant has a menu with pictures, it has employed a food stylist to work with a photographer. The stylist must present the food in an appetizing way. Cooking shows: Many people assume that the chefs they see cooking on television have a team of hair, makeup, and wardrobe stylists. However, many people dont pay attention to the kitchens. Look closely at prop placement and the set in the background. Set stylists have a hand in all of this. Also, when chefs explain what is going to be cooked in the next segment, they often show a finished version. A food stylist prepared the finished version in Figure 1.7. Brochures: These are those free informative handouts that you might read when youre in a waiting area. You can find them everywhere from doctors offices, to utility-company waiting rooms, to cell phone provider locations.

What it Means to Be Freelance vs. Salaried

Some stylists are salaried while others are freelance. Salaried stylists work at their employers office, whereas freelance stylists are self-employed and are responsible for finding their own jobs. Both types of jobs have their own pros and cons.

Salaried Stylists

Salaried stylists often work for magazines or catalogs as part of their full-time staff. A stylist on a magazine staff might be known as a fashion editor or fashion director. Assistant editors on magazine staffs answer to senior editors. The pros

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of being salaried are steady paychecks, benefits, and job longevity. Salaried stylists dont have the same lapses of time between jobs that freelance stylists do. The cons are that you dont get to choose your jobs and there might be less variety in the day-to-day projects.

Freelance Stylists

Freelance stylists have to work hard to find jobs. Ultimately they choose which jobs they want to take and which they dont, but they often take less interesting jobs out of financial necessity. They network with photographers and other industry professionals to build contacts. Being a freelancer involves pros and cons, as does being salaried. Pros include scheduling flexibility, variety in the day-to-day routine, not answering to a boss, and the constant potential of getting hired for a great job. Cons include not having a steady paycheck, long lapses of time between jobs, worrying about finding work, and struggling to make a name in the industry. Freelance stylists dont get the benefits that fulltime employers provide. They dont get the health insurance, paid vacations, and 401(k) contributions that companies might provide. Some freelance stylists are represented by creative talent agencies. Creative talent agencies help stylists find clients in exchange for a portion of the stylists pay. Agents also help with billing and scheduling, and free up the stylist to focus on fashion. On days that a freelance stylist is not shooting, he or she might be focusing on maintaining behind-the-scenes business tasks. This includes maintaining a home office and professional contacts. Receipts must be organized and invoices must be properly filed. They might also simply be researching for styling inspiration or personal wardrobe ideas. Freelance stylists work with a variety of clients. They are self-employed, and therefore responsible for finding their own jobs, billing for their time, and maintaining an office/studio space. However, just because a stylist is freelance doesnt mean he or she has total creative license. Freelancers are accountable to the client or art director who is overseeing the job. Most freelance stylists make their livings from less glamorous jobs that pay the bills between more creative opportunities.

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Personality Traits That a Stylist Needs to Succeed

Styling requires certain personality traits. Above all, stylists must have proactive personalities in order to cultivate professional contacts, and source/borrow clothing and accessories. All of the personal qualities discussed on the next page are essential for stylists to possess. If there is a weakness in one of these areas, it can be improved with some effort. However, if working as part of a team is a challenge, then this is a serious problem. Teamwork is the heart of any styling job, and professional cooperation is the key to success. An aspiring stylist should stay in this frame of mind. The following questions address the personality traits.

Are You Self-Motivated and Self-Reliant?

Freelance stylists find their own work, do their own billing, maintain a studio and/or office, and build their own professional contacts. This is time-consuming and can be all-encompassing. It is easy to procrastinate to-do lists when deadlines arent immediate. Stylists need to have, or cultivate, the discipline to use free time productively.

Do You Have Good Verbal, Written, and Visual Communication Skills?

As stylists are out in the community meeting people, they need to put their best foot forward. Good communication skills and an extroverted personality are imperative. This doesnt just apply to face-to-face social situations. Many misunderstandings happen via e-mail as well. Just as stylists are mindful of the messages sent by body language and manners, they also need to understand the written meanings of CAPITAL LETTERS, italics, and punctuation. Visual communication can be very effective because it has the least room for misinterpretation. Showing someone a picture of an outfit is much more understandable than describing it. Tablets and smartphones can be great tools for visual communication.

Do You Have Good Personal Style? Is it Memorable?

Style is the first thing that people notice. It isnt necessary to look overly trendy, but a stylist should look neat and clean. Each ensemble should be flattering, current, tasteful, and show some thought. (See Figure 1.10.)

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Figures 1.10 Brad Goreski is a great example of a stylist who has a memorable personal style without being gimmicky or overly trendy.

Apps such as Stylebook are a great tool because they allow the user to photograph items in their closet and collage them to see how they would look together. Style blogs can also be great sources of inspiration for what to wear. The blogs What I Wore (womenswear) and Put This On (menswear) are great for classic looks. There are more fashion inspiration sources outlined in Chapter 6.

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Do You Enjoy Teamwork?

Styling is a job that involves constant collaboration and the ability to compromise. The client is the person or company that hires the stylist. Ultimately the client needs to be pleased with the outcome. Ideally everyone involved should be happy with the final product. However, stylists might have to use finesse to get the client to adjust his or her vision for a better image, or compromise to please the client.

Do You Have People Skills? Are You Easy to Talk To?

Being approachable is important for anyone professionally, especially when freelance or self-employed. Approachable people smile, make eye contact, and ask questions to stimulate conversation. Being able to make others see things your way without alienating them is important.

Are You Adaptable?

It is important to be open to new ideas and to other peoples creative input. In the end, stylists must please the clients who hire them. However, it is also important to know when not to adapt to someone elses idea, especially if the final image or outcome is something the stylist doesnt want to be associated with.

Ten How-To Skills a Fashion Stylist Needs to Possess

At its best, fashion styling can mean working in the seemingly glamorous world of top fashion magazines and big-budget movies. It can mean working with extremely talented models and actors. It can also mean working with beautiful designer clothes. Behind the scenes, these magazines and movie sets arent as glamorous as they seem. They require long hours of grueling prep and collaboration. It is important for a beginning stylist to be realistic about the amount of hard work and dedication it takes to succeed. On top of setting realistic expectations, stylists need to be well versed in the following areas.

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1. How to Flatter Different Body Shapes with Clothing: Fashion stylists dress a wide variety of people. Every body is shaped differently, and it is up to the stylist to know how to flatter all of them. A flattering outfit makes the wearer feel comfortable and confident for the camera, and is essential for good photographs. This is addressed in more depth in Chapter 4. 2. How to Properly Use Color: In addition to flattering body types, stylists need to understand skins various colorings and which color palettes flatter them. Color palettes are covered more thoroughly in Chapter 4. 3. How Things Look Through a Camera Lens: Things look different when seen through the lens of a camera. Different clothing and accessories call for different angles and distances with the camera. Stylists should understand how to make the clothing and accessories look their best on film. Chapter 9 covers some basic photography tips. 4. How to Efficiently Shop for Clothing: Stylists need to know whats in stores and where to source clothing on short notice. This is covered in more detail in Chapters 2 and 8. 5. How to Build Relationships with Store Owners and Managers: Having relationships with store owners and managers is essential to being able to borrow clothing at short notice. Those relationships can save stylists when they are in a bind. Self-promotional materials such as a business card or website are helpful when building retail contacts. These materials are explained further in Chapter 7 . 6. How to Spot Trends: Clients hire stylists for their understanding of current trends. They trust the stylists eye and sense of what is relevant in fashion. They are relying on the stylists sense of the overall direction of fashion. As mentioned earlier in this chapter, forecasting services such as WGSN and Fashion Trendsetter are great sources for current and future trends. 7 . How to Stay Informed: The latest collections, current events, fashion and cultural trends, the entertainment industry, art, cinema, and fashion history are all essential knowledge for a stylist. (See Recommended Reading: Eight Magazines and Newspapers.) 8. How to Stay within a Budget: Styling usually means sticking to a clients budget for a shoot. Knowing how to accomplish a lot with a small amount of money is an important skill. This is why it is helpful to know a wide variety of retailers who are willing to lend clothing.

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9. How to Build a Professional Reputation: Networking doesnt only include photographers and potential clients. It also includes other stylists. If a stylist gets offered a job he or she cant take, he or she might pass it on to another stylist out of professional courtesy. As mentioned earlier, the selfpromotional materials covered in Chapter 7 are essential for networking. 10. How to Organize an Office: Stylists need to stay on top of billing and paperwork. If an invoicing and billing system isnt organized, it can cost time and money. Also, it is essential to keep an organized calendar of past and upcoming jobs. Stylists need to keep track of when they get paid for past jobs, and when they will be working in the future. A stylist saves all job-related receipts. They are either billed to a client or taken as a business deduction with the IRS.

How to Spot Trends

Trend reports and runway reviews are easily found on the Internet and are important for stylists to read. It is also helpful to be able to identify trends. Picking out trends involves looking at runways, retail, and street fashion. Runways influence street fashion, and street fashion influences runways. Retailers are able to reflect trends almost immediately because of efficient production. This is why looking at all three areas gives a complete picture of current trends. Note-taking and sketching are great ways to pick out trends. Observations can be typed into a memo app or photographed on a smartphone or tablet. Some people might prefer to jot down notes or sketches in a notebook. Key things to look for in the note-taking process are new themes. Themes include silhouettes, colors, fabrics, and patterns. If a theme has been around for more than one season it can still be relevant but not as fresh as it once was. Older themes arent found on the pages of fashion magazines, but they might be seen in midprice clothing catalogs and in advertisements. Knowing how to wear trends is equally as important as spotting them. If a bare midriff is in style one season, how it is worn can make or break the look. If flannel shirts influenced by the 1990s are trendy, it is important to know how to wear them so that they look current. Todays versions might be more tailored than the ones worn in the past. In the nineties it might have been fine to wear a baggy flannel with baggy ripped jeans and combat boots. Todays men and women might pair a fitted flannel with straight-leg jeans and sleek ankle boots.

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Recommended Reading: Eight Magazines and Newspapers

The following magazines and newspapers have been selected based on how influential they are within their target markets. It is important for a stylist to be acquainted with diverse audiences and to understand how styling might differ for each one. Details: A mens magazine that covers fashion, culture, design, lifestyle, and entertainment. Harpers Bazaar: One of Americas leading womens fashion magazines. Elle: This magazine covers great cutting-edge fashion and many upand-coming designers. GQ: A mens magazine that showcases fashion, entertainment, design, sports, and lifestyle. Nylon and Nylon Guys: These magazines are targeted toward young fashion-forward readers. The New Yorker: A magazine that provides great coverage and commentary of Fashion Week. It also reports on cutting-edge trends that can inform style decisions. (See Chapter 6.) The New York Times: The Thursday Styles section of this daily newspaper is especially important. The weekly multimedia slideshows available online provide great insight into the newest happenings on the runway, in retail, and on the street. T: The New York Times Style Magazine is a supplement to the Sunday edition. It is published fifteen times per year and covers fashion, design, travel, and lifestyle. Both publications cover mens and womens fashion. Vogue: Considered by many to be Americas leading fashion magazine. W: An offshoot of WWD, this magazine features great editorials. WWD (Womens Wear Daily): This daily trade newspaper, available in both print and online subscriptions, is a must-have for anyone working in the fashion industry. It covers all of the latest news in fashion, retail, business, and beauty.

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Summary and Review

Fashion styling is much more than just putting outfits together. It is a dynamic and fast-paced career that can be extremely rewarding. The three main areas of fashion styling are print, entertainment industry, and image management. There are many types of stylists beyond fashion, including runway stylists and those who work with food, props, sets, and other designed products. There are two types of paid styling jobs: salaried or freelance. A salaried styling job is often on a magazine staff. Freelance stylists are self-employed. As with many self-employed people, a freelancer might work around the clock and at odd hours. They also dont receive paid vacations. Even downtime is considered work time. When they arent shooting, they might be working on billing, maintaining their home offices, reading magazines to stay up on trends, or polishing their personal appearances. Good fashion stylists have a love for fashion, and dont mind surrounding themselves with it. They eat, breathe, and sleep fashion and are constantly looking for the next great thing. All stylists need to possess certain personality traits. An ability to work as part of a team, communication skills, and an extroverted personality are essential to success. In addition, skills such as dressing to flatter figure and skin tone are important. Styling is a job that requires passion, dedication, and the will to succeed.

Key Terms
character styling client editorial styling entertainment industry fashion products fashion styling food styling image management print styling prop styling runway styling set styling sourcing styling talent themes wardrobe styling

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Review Questions
1. Who is the client? 2. What does the term talent mean? 3. What is sourcing? 4. List the three main types of fashion styling. 5. What is character styling? 6. Name two other areas of styling outside of fashion. 7 . Where might a salaried fashion stylist work? 8. What are two drawbacks to being a freelance stylist? 9. List two personality traits that a stylist needs in order to succeed. 10. Name five how-to skills that a fashion stylist should possess.

Learning Activities
Learning Activity 1.1: Search both magazines and websites for pictures of current fashion. Find one common theme among this seasons looks and Copy/ Paste or cut out and attach five examples of it to a piece of paper. The examples can be either runway or street fashion. Be sure to include the designers names next to runway pictures. Include a short paragraph describing the theme. Learning Activity 1.2: Conduct an Internet search for a fashion stylist portfolio. Try to find a stylist who has at least two different types of portfolios on his or her website. Write a short paragraph about what type(s) of portfolios the stylist is showing and describe them in one typed, double-spaced page. Learning Activity 1.3: Go to a supermarket and look at what is for sale. Look at the packaging on different items. Jot down five unexpected examples of styling on packaging. This might include anything from a person on the front of a cereal box to a picture of dishes on a bottle of dish soap. List the specific brand, briefly describe the package, and state what you think was styled.

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Resources
Cox, Susan Linnet. Photo Styling: How to Build Your Career and Succeed. New York: Allworth Press, 2006. Fashion Trendsetter. http:/ /www.fashiontrendsetter.com. Food Photography Blog. Food Styling Tips, Tricks, and TechniquesFood Styling Tips for Food Photographers. http:/ /www.foodportfolio.com/blog/food_photography/tricks_of_the_ trade.html. left brain / right brain, LLC. Stylebook. Computer software. Version 5.0. Apple App Store. 2009. http:/ /itunes.apple.com/us/app/stylebook/id335709058. Looklet. http:/ /www.looklet.com. Media Match. Art Director: What Do Art Directors Do? http:/ /www.media-match.com. NYMag.com. Fashion Calendar. http:/ /nymag.com/fashion. Polyvore. Create a Style Collage. http:/ /www.polyvore.com/cgi/app. Put This On. http:/ /www putthison.com. Style.com. http:/ /www.style.com. Stylesight. What Is Style Sight? http:/ /www.stylesight.com. Trendstop. What We Offer Overview. http:/ /www.trendstop.com/en/fashion_trend_ analysis/womenswear/trend-forecasts-w-10.html. Trengrove Studios. Acrylic Ice. http:/ /www.trengovestudios.com/acrylicice.htm. WeConnectFashion. http:/ /www.weconnectfashion.com. WGSN. http:/ /www.wgsn.com. What I Wore. http:/ /www.whatiwore.tumblr.com. Wright, Crystal. The Hair, Makeup & Styling Career Guide. Los Angeles: Motivational Media Productions, 2007.

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