The Complete Guide to

natural
dyeing
fabric, yarn, and fiber
Jam-packed with natural—and foolproof— The Complete Guide to

natural
dyeing techniques, The Complete Guide to
Natural Dyeing Fabric, Yarn, and Fiber is the
perfect dyeing source for an abundance of fiber
artists wanting to dye the natural way.

Inside you’ll find:

•
•
Techniques for collecting and preparing
dyestuffs.
Step-by-step sequences to explain different
dyeing
ways of applying natural colors to yarns and
textiles from batik dyeing to dip-dyeing. fabric, yarn, and fiber
• An extensive directory of recipes for dyeing with
madder, safflower, indigo, cochineal, alkanet,
and many more, to create stunning natural colors. Techniques and recipes for dyeing
• Readers will also learn how different natural
fabrics, yarns, and fibers at home
dyes will affect the colors obtained on various
mediums, and how to work with mordants.
E VA L A M B E R T & T R A C Y K E N D A LL
The Complete Guide to Natural Dyeing Fabric,
Yarn, and Fiber is a comprehensive guide with
complete instructions and plenty of dyeing
inspiration to get creative—the natural way. Using
natural dyes to create fabric, yarn, or fiber is
simple, eco-friendly, and surprisingly affordable!

Eva Lambert was born in Germany, brought up in the United

States, and now is a UK citizen living in Scotland. She opened the
Shilasdair shop on the Isle of Skye in 1998 and sells exclusively
natural-dyed yarns. Eva has given talks, hosted workshops, and
has been the subject of various exhibitions in the UK. She has done
historical dyeing for the Victoria and Albert Millennium Exhibition.

Tracy Kendall has worked for 25 years at Central Saint

Martins—London’s most prestigious art school—teaching students
from Foundation to Post Graduate level how to design and print
onto textiles. She has her own internationally successful design
Paperback, 81⁄2" x 10", 144 pages
studio producing hand silk-screened wallpapers which are exhibited 400 photographs
and sold throughout the world. She has previously published a ISBN 978-1-59668-181-1
textile dye recipe handbook, The Fabric and Yarn Dyer’s Handbook $24.95
(Collins and Brown, 2003). Available February 2010
 Techniques Root or powde r
yarn•fabric
Dyeing with Madder
It is the chopped root of a two- or
three-year-old plant that is most
commonly used; powdered madder
will tend to give brownish tones.
also known as “Turkey Red,” Madder has
When using madder, the dyebath
been in use for over 5000 years. It is the should not be boiled as this
will release more yellow.
rich brick red color that forms the
The mixture must be
background of many Turkish kelims and heated very slowly, and
should not go beyond a
carpets. But it can also produce bright
gentle simmer to get the
carmine reds, purplish reds, orange reds, brightest red tones.
W a te r q u a lity In g r e d i e n t s u s e d h e re
The harder the water, the better the
color. So the story goes, two women
from the same Turkish village were
given the same madder roots to dye
yarn to make carpets. One produced
a slightly blueish red; the other a
brownish red. Confused, the women
went to their supplier who was equally
baffled, until he realized that the
women, although from the same
village, had drawn their water from
two different wells.
It also depends on where, and how, the
madder was grown. As with the water,
the more chalky the soil, the better. So
check with your supplier to find the
source of your madder roots.
If you have soft water, you can try
adding chalk to get the more reddish
colors. During the 19th century in
the Outer Hebrides, urine was added
at the end of the dyeing process to
redden the color.
The sequence below shows 1tsp. (5ml)
of ammonia, per 31⁄2 oz. (100g) of yarn
to take some of the yellow out of the
red. Commercial madder from local
craft suppliers is probably only two
years old. Generally, the older root the
brighter the red. Eight-year-old roots
will give more purplish reds, but if you
want that you’ll probably have to grow
your own!

and deep brown reds. A truly versatile and

reliable dyestuff.

Vat dyeing

1 2 3 4 5 6
P lace your chopped roots C over with water and Carefully add the woolen Add more water to Bring the dyebath slowly to the boil. Make Take the yarn out of the
into the dyebath. leave to soak for at least yarn, pre-mordanted with immerse the yarn so it can sure not to heat the liquid higher than 140°F dyebath and rinse well,
24 hours to ensure the alum, into the dyebath. move more freely in the (60°C) as this will result in a yellowing of the until the water runs clear.
madder releases the dyebath. This helps to color. Keep the dyebath at this temperature
maximum color into ensure consistent coloring. for at least one hour—longer if possible. Let
v SEE ALSO:
the water. it cool overnight to allow the yarn to fully
Mordanting, page 16
absorb the color.
Mixing dye baths, page 84
 Techniques Root or powde r
yarn•fabric
Dyeing with Madder
It is the chopped root of a two- or
three-year-old plant that is most
commonly used; powdered madder
will tend to give brownish tones.
also known as “Turkey Red,” Madder has
When using madder, the dyebath
been in use for over 5000 years. It is the should not be boiled as this
will release more yellow.
rich brick red color that forms the
The mixture must be
background of many Turkish kelims and heated very slowly, and
should not go beyond a
carpets. But it can also produce bright
gentle simmer to get the
carmine reds, purplish reds, orange reds, brightest red tones.
W a te r q u a lity In g r e d i e n t s u s e d h e re
The harder the water, the better the
color. So the story goes, two women
from the same Turkish village were
given the same madder roots to dye
yarn to make carpets. One produced
a slightly blueish red; the other a
brownish red. Confused, the women
went to their supplier who was equally
baffled, until he realized that the
women, although from the same
village, had drawn their water from
two different wells.
It also depends on where, and how, the
madder was grown. As with the water,
the more chalky the soil, the better. So
check with your supplier to find the
source of your madder roots.
If you have soft water, you can try
adding chalk to get the more reddish
colors. During the 19th century in
the Outer Hebrides, urine was added
at the end of the dyeing process to
redden the color.
The sequence below shows 1tsp. (5ml)
of ammonia, per 31⁄2 oz. (100g) of yarn
to take some of the yellow out of the
red. Commercial madder from local
craft suppliers is probably only two
years old. Generally, the older root the
brighter the red. Eight-year-old roots
will give more purplish reds, but if you
want that you’ll probably have to grow
your own!

and deep brown reds. A truly versatile and

reliable dyestuff.

Vat dyeing

1 2 3 4 5 6
P lace your chopped roots C over with water and Carefully add the woolen Add more water to Bring the dyebath slowly to the boil. Make Take the yarn out of the
into the dyebath. leave to soak for at least yarn, pre-mordanted with immerse the yarn so it can sure not to heat the liquid higher than 140°F dyebath and rinse well,
24 hours to ensure the alum, into the dyebath. move more freely in the (60°C) as this will result in a yellowing of the until the water runs clear.
madder releases the dyebath. This helps to color. Keep the dyebath at this temperature
maximum color into ensure consistent coloring. for at least one hour—longer if possible. Let
v SEE ALSO:
the water. it cool overnight to allow the yarn to fully
Mordanting, page 16
absorb the color.
Mixing dye baths, page 84
yarn•fabric
1 2
Collecting dyestuffs
Flowers
Collect your flowers on a dry day. Generally,
the whole plant can be used—gather as if
making a bouquet so that the leaves and stem
can be included in the dye bath. Freshly picked
plants give a more intense color than dried—
just as fresh herbs have a stronger taste than
dried ones.
Alcea sp. / Hollyhock
Collection: The different colored blossoms
can be used in one dye bath, but should be
picked in the summer when in full bloom and
used only when fresh.
Color obtained: A reasonable lightfast
range of orange yellows on animal fibers, but
will dye paler on vegetable fibers.
Anthemis tinctoria / Camomile
Collection: Only the flower heads should be
collected in the summer and used when fresh.
Color obtained: A pleasing yellow when
used with alum, a bright yellow with the
addition of tin, a subdued greeny yellow
with iron, and a slightly browny yellow
with copper.
v SEE ALSO:
Preparing your dyestuffs, page 36
Cytisus scoparius / Broom
Collection: For fresh use, collect during the
summer. Collect flowers only, as the stems
contain tannin which will brown your color.
For later use, dry whole sprigs, then strip off
the flowers and leaves and store in a jar out
of strong sunlight.
Color obtained: An excellent bright yellow
when used with alum and a lovely green
when overdyed with indigo.
3 4
Calluna vulgaris / Heather
Collection: For fresh use, collect the
flowering tips in late summer or early fall,
avoiding too much stem. For later use, cut
deeper, making small bundles to hang and dry.
Once dried, strip off the flowers and leaves
and store in a jar, out of strong sun light.
Color obtained: A good olive yellow when
used fresh with alum. More of a mustard
yellow when used dried.
Caltha palustris / Marigold
Collection: Collect as if making a bouquet,
including the stems. Can be dried by hanging
in bunches outside on a clear windless day, or
indoors in a warm room.
1 Tansy, Bachelor buttons
Color obtained: A bright brassy yellow,
which is lightfast on animal fibers. A pale
yellow when dyed on linen or cotton. Not
suitable for vegetable fibers.
Daucus carota /
Queen Ann’s lace, Wild carrot 4 of tin, a bright gold; mordanted with copper,
Collection: Collect in late spring or summer
as if for a bouquet, when in bloom. Should
only be used fresh.
19
19
5 6
2 Color obtained: A range of fast yellows
Solidago sp. / Golden rod Taraxacum officinale &
depending on quantity used—the more you
use, the brighter the color. On vegetable
fibers the shades are lighter.
Collection: The whole plant is collected in
the summer, as if for a bouquet. Since the
plant can grow to 6ft (2m) tall, it must be cut
erythrospermum / Dandelion
Collection: For the best color, only the
flower heads should be collected, and collect
7
into reasonably-sized pieces to use fresh. The in as late in the season as possible. The
Filipendula ulmaria /
best dyes are obtained by using only the whole plant—leaves and blossoms—can be
Meadowsweet, Queen of the meadow
blossoms and as little of the stem as used but the color will be different.
Collection: As for a bouquet in late spring or
possible. For later use, dry in bouquet bundles Color obtained: With only the flower heads,
early summer—before the frothy flowers
and then separate the blossoms. a clear yellow; with both leaves and flower
begin to turn brown. Can be dried for later
Color obtained: A yellow gold with alum, heads, a more beige color. Softly spun cotton
use but the colors obtained will be paler.
but a much brighter gold when tin is added to will take the dye, but other vegetable fibers
3 Color obtained: A greenish yellow with
the dye bath. Greenish shades with copper or will not.
alum, which when overdyed with indigo can
iron. Lightfastness is good.
give a slightly aqua green.
Ulex sp. / Gorse 6
Tanacetum vulgare / Collection: This is a very prickly shrub, so
Galium boreale /
5 take care. Collect the flowers only during
Ladies’ bedstraw
Collection: Collect in the late summer, summer. They can be dried for later use.
Collection: Collect the whole plant as if
before the yellow buttons turn brown. Cut the Color obtained: A good clear yellow when
making a bouquet, in the summer. Can be
stems just below the flowering heads but used with alum.
dried, but the color is best when used fresh.
with enough stem so they can be hung to dry
Color obtained : With alum-mordanted yarn,
for later use if desired. Storing Flowers
a golden yellow; with the addition of a pinch
Color obtained: A bright greeny yellow with
alum, but a darker moss green with iron. If you wish to use your collected plants at a
a light olive; and with iron, a medium
later date, hang them in small bunches to dry in
olive green.
the sun (protected from moisture and high
winds) or in a conservatory. Store in jars or
boxes, away from direct sunlight.
Estimating Amounts
If you used 100% of dyestuff in your original
recipe then once dried, the amount of dyestuff
7 should, as a general rule, be decreased by 50%
as your fresh plants contain water. The colors
may not be as bright as when you use the
flowers fresh.
yarn•fabric
1 2
Collecting dyestuffs
Flowers
Collect your flowers on a dry day. Generally,
the whole plant can be used—gather as if
making a bouquet so that the leaves and stem
can be included in the dye bath. Freshly picked
plants give a more intense color than dried—
just as fresh herbs have a stronger taste than
dried ones.
Alcea sp. / Hollyhock
Collection: The different colored blossoms
can be used in one dye bath, but should be
picked in the summer when in full bloom and
used only when fresh.
Color obtained: A reasonable lightfast
range of orange yellows on animal fibers, but
will dye paler on vegetable fibers.
Anthemis tinctoria / Camomile
Collection: Only the flower heads should be
collected in the summer and used when fresh.
Color obtained: A pleasing yellow when
used with alum, a bright yellow with the
addition of tin, a subdued greeny yellow
with iron, and a slightly browny yellow
with copper.
v SEE ALSO:
Preparing your dyestuffs, page 36
Cytisus scoparius / Broom
Collection: For fresh use, collect during the
summer. Collect flowers only, as the stems
contain tannin which will brown your color.
For later use, dry whole sprigs, then strip off
the flowers and leaves and store in a jar out
of strong sunlight.
Color obtained: An excellent bright yellow
when used with alum and a lovely green
when overdyed with indigo.
3 4
Calluna vulgaris / Heather
Collection: For fresh use, collect the
flowering tips in late summer or early fall,
avoiding too much stem. For later use, cut
deeper, making small bundles to hang and dry.
Once dried, strip off the flowers and leaves
and store in a jar, out of strong sun light.
Color obtained: A good olive yellow when
used fresh with alum. More of a mustard
yellow when used dried.
Caltha palustris / Marigold
Collection: Collect as if making a bouquet,
including the stems. Can be dried by hanging
in bunches outside on a clear windless day, or
indoors in a warm room.
1 Tansy, Bachelor buttons
Color obtained: A bright brassy yellow,
which is lightfast on animal fibers. A pale
yellow when dyed on linen or cotton. Not
suitable for vegetable fibers.
Daucus carota /
Queen Ann’s lace, Wild carrot 4 of tin, a bright gold; mordanted with copper,
Collection: Collect in late spring or summer
as if for a bouquet, when in bloom. Should
only be used fresh.
19
19
5 6
2 Color obtained: A range of fast yellows
Solidago sp. / Golden rod Taraxacum officinale &
depending on quantity used—the more you
use, the brighter the color. On vegetable
fibers the shades are lighter.
Collection: The whole plant is collected in
the summer, as if for a bouquet. Since the
plant can grow to 6ft (2m) tall, it must be cut
erythrospermum / Dandelion
Collection: For the best color, only the
flower heads should be collected, and collect
7
into reasonably-sized pieces to use fresh. The in as late in the season as possible. The
Filipendula ulmaria /
best dyes are obtained by using only the whole plant—leaves and blossoms—can be
Meadowsweet, Queen of the meadow
blossoms and as little of the stem as used but the color will be different.
Collection: As for a bouquet in late spring or
possible. For later use, dry in bouquet bundles Color obtained: With only the flower heads,
early summer—before the frothy flowers
and then separate the blossoms. a clear yellow; with both leaves and flower
begin to turn brown. Can be dried for later
Color obtained: A yellow gold with alum, heads, a more beige color. Softly spun cotton
use but the colors obtained will be paler.
but a much brighter gold when tin is added to will take the dye, but other vegetable fibers
3 Color obtained: A greenish yellow with
the dye bath. Greenish shades with copper or will not.
alum, which when overdyed with indigo can
iron. Lightfastness is good.
give a slightly aqua green.
Ulex sp. / Gorse 6
Tanacetum vulgare / Collection: This is a very prickly shrub, so
Galium boreale /
5 take care. Collect the flowers only during
Ladies’ bedstraw
Collection: Collect in the late summer, summer. They can be dried for later use.
Collection: Collect the whole plant as if
before the yellow buttons turn brown. Cut the Color obtained: A good clear yellow when
making a bouquet, in the summer. Can be
stems just below the flowering heads but used with alum.
dried, but the color is best when used fresh.
with enough stem so they can be hung to dry
Color obtained : With alum-mordanted yarn,
for later use if desired. Storing Flowers
a golden yellow; with the addition of a pinch
Color obtained: A bright greeny yellow with
alum, but a darker moss green with iron. If you wish to use your collected plants at a
a light olive; and with iron, a medium
later date, hang them in small bunches to dry in
olive green.
the sun (protected from moisture and high
winds) or in a conservatory. Store in jars or
boxes, away from direct sunlight.
Estimating Amounts
If you used 100% of dyestuff in your original
recipe then once dried, the amount of dyestuff
7 should, as a general rule, be decreased by 50%
as your fresh plants contain water. The colors
may not be as bright as when you use the
flowers fresh.
 Recipes Soft pink Hint of pink Muted yellow
fabric
Safflower
Silk: no mordant Silk: no mordant Cotton: no
mordant
1
Ingredients Ingredients
• Safflower petals: • Safflower petals: Ingredients
(Carthamus tinctorius) 100–200% to dry 100–200% to dry • Dried safflower:
weight of fabric weight of fabric 50–100% to dry
Safflower dye will turn silk yellow • Silk fabric swatch • Cotton fabric swatch weight of fabric
• Washing soda • Cotton fabric swatch
and cotton red. The dye was Method • Vinegar • Washing soda
originally used to dye the cotton Follow steps 1–7 of the general method. • Vinegar
Method
tape used for legal documents, hence 1 Follow steps 1–7 of the general method. Method
the expression “red tape.” V ariation : For a paler color, like the one in
2 Make a new dye bath with the used 1 Follow steps 1–7 of the general method.

background swatch number 3, remove the fabric

General method
1 Place the safflower petals in a saucepan, cover with hot
water, and bring to the boil.
2 Simmer for 30 minutes. Cool in the saucepan.
3 Strain the dye water through panty hose. Place the panty
hose with the safflower petals inside in a dye vat. Add
enough warm water to allow free movement of the fabric
below the water.
4 Wet the fabric and add it to the dye vat. Slowly bring to
the boil over 20 to 30 minutes. Simmer for 60 to 90 minutes.
5 Stir the fabric frequently so all the surfaces pick up the
dye color evenly, but make sure that the fabric remains
underneath the water surface at all times.
6 During the dyeing you can check the color of the fabric by
rinsing under running cold tap water and then squeezing
tightly dry.
7 When you have the color you require, rinse well in warm
water and then wash in warm water using a pH-neutral soap.
Rinse well again in warm water and air dry.
safflower petals in old panty hose. Add enough
after 15–20 minutes of simmering. cold water to allow free movement of the fabric
below the water. Add enough washing soda
(alkali) to change the pH level of the dye vat to
11. Leave to settle for 60 minutes.
3 Neutralize the dye vat with a vinegar solution
(acid) to change the pH level to 6. Add the
cotton fabric.
4 Leave the fabric to dye cold in this bath for
Palest cream 2 to 4 hours, or overnight if possible.
5 Stir the fabric frequently so all the surfaces
Cotton: alum pick up the dye color evenly, but make sure that
mordant
the fabric remains underneath the water
surface at all times.
Ingredients
6 During the dyeing you can check the color of
• Safflower petals:
the fabric by rinsing under running cold tap
100–200% to dry
water and then squeezing tightly dry.
weight of fabric
7 When you have the color you require, rinse
• Silk fabric swatch
well in warm water and then wash in warm
• Alum mordant: At 8%
water using a pH-neutral soap. Rinse well again
in warm water and air dry.
Method
Follow steps 1–7 of the general method
2 Make a new dye bath with the used
safflower petals in old tights. Add enough cold
2
water to allow free movement of the fabric
below the water. Add enough washing soda
(alkali) to change the pH level of the dye vat
to 11. Leave to settle for 60 minutes.
3 Neutralize the dye vat with a vinegar solution
(acid) to change the pH level to 6. Add the
cotton fabric.
4 Leave the fabric to dye cold in this bath for
2 to 4 hours, or overnight if possible.
5 Stir the fabric frequently so all the surfaces
pick up the dye color evenly, but make sure that
the fabric remains underneath the water
surface at all times.
3
6 During the dyeing you can check the color of
the fabric by rinsing under running cold tap
water and then squeezing tightly dry.
7 When you have the color you require, rinse
well in warm water and then wash in warm
water using a pH-neutral soap. Rinse well again
in warm water and air dry.

V ariation : A different weight of cotton will give a V ariation : For a deeper pink, leave the fabric in the V ariation : Background swatch number 2was left
very different tone when dyed in this dye bath. See dye bath for a day or two. See background swatch in this dye bath overnight—notice how it gives a 4
background swatch number 1. number 4. more intense color.
 Recipes Soft pink Hint of pink Muted yellow
fabric
Safflower
Silk: no mordant Silk: no mordant Cotton: no
mordant
1
Ingredients Ingredients
• Safflower petals: • Safflower petals: Ingredients
(Carthamus tinctorius) 100–200% to dry 100–200% to dry • Dried safflower:
weight of fabric weight of fabric 50–100% to dry
Safflower dye will turn silk yellow • Silk fabric swatch • Cotton fabric swatch weight of fabric
• Washing soda • Cotton fabric swatch
and cotton red. The dye was Method • Vinegar • Washing soda
originally used to dye the cotton Follow steps 1–7 of the general method. • Vinegar
Method
tape used for legal documents, hence 1 Follow steps 1–7 of the general method. Method
the expression “red tape.” V ariation : For a paler color, like the one in
2 Make a new dye bath with the used 1 Follow steps 1–7 of the general method.

background swatch number 3, remove the fabric

General method
1 Place the safflower petals in a saucepan, cover with hot
water, and bring to the boil.
2 Simmer for 30 minutes. Cool in the saucepan.
3 Strain the dye water through panty hose. Place the panty
hose with the safflower petals inside in a dye vat. Add
enough warm water to allow free movement of the fabric
below the water.
4 Wet the fabric and add it to the dye vat. Slowly bring to
the boil over 20 to 30 minutes. Simmer for 60 to 90 minutes.
5 Stir the fabric frequently so all the surfaces pick up the
dye color evenly, but make sure that the fabric remains
underneath the water surface at all times.
6 During the dyeing you can check the color of the fabric by
rinsing under running cold tap water and then squeezing
tightly dry.
7 When you have the color you require, rinse well in warm
water and then wash in warm water using a pH-neutral soap.
Rinse well again in warm water and air dry.
safflower petals in old panty hose. Add enough
after 15–20 minutes of simmering. cold water to allow free movement of the fabric
below the water. Add enough washing soda
(alkali) to change the pH level of the dye vat to
11. Leave to settle for 60 minutes.
3 Neutralize the dye vat with a vinegar solution
(acid) to change the pH level to 6. Add the
cotton fabric.
4 Leave the fabric to dye cold in this bath for
Palest cream 2 to 4 hours, or overnight if possible.
5 Stir the fabric frequently so all the surfaces
Cotton: alum pick up the dye color evenly, but make sure that
mordant
the fabric remains underneath the water
surface at all times.
Ingredients
6 During the dyeing you can check the color of
• Safflower petals:
the fabric by rinsing under running cold tap
100–200% to dry
water and then squeezing tightly dry.
weight of fabric
7 When you have the color you require, rinse
• Silk fabric swatch
well in warm water and then wash in warm
• Alum mordant: At 8%
water using a pH-neutral soap. Rinse well again
in warm water and air dry.
Method
Follow steps 1–7 of the general method
2 Make a new dye bath with the used
safflower petals in old tights. Add enough cold
2
water to allow free movement of the fabric
below the water. Add enough washing soda
(alkali) to change the pH level of the dye vat
to 11. Leave to settle for 60 minutes.
3 Neutralize the dye vat with a vinegar solution
(acid) to change the pH level to 6. Add the
cotton fabric.
4 Leave the fabric to dye cold in this bath for
2 to 4 hours, or overnight if possible.
5 Stir the fabric frequently so all the surfaces
pick up the dye color evenly, but make sure that
the fabric remains underneath the water
surface at all times.
3
6 During the dyeing you can check the color of
the fabric by rinsing under running cold tap
water and then squeezing tightly dry.
7 When you have the color you require, rinse
well in warm water and then wash in warm
water using a pH-neutral soap. Rinse well again
in warm water and air dry.

V ariation : A different weight of cotton will give a V ariation : For a deeper pink, leave the fabric in the V ariation : Background swatch number 2was left
very different tone when dyed in this dye bath. See dye bath for a day or two. See background swatch in this dye bath overnight—notice how it gives a 4
background swatch number 1. number 4. more intense color.
 The Complete Guide to

natural
dyeing
fabric, yarn, and fiber
Jam-packed with natural—and foolproof— The Complete Guide to

natural
dyeing techniques, The Complete Guide to
Natural Dyeing Fabric, Yarn, and Fiber is the
perfect dyeing source for an abundance of fiber
artists wanting to dye the natural way.

Inside you’ll find:

•
•
Techniques for collecting and preparing
dyestuffs.
Step-by-step sequences to explain different
dyeing
ways of applying natural colors to yarns and
textiles from batik dyeing to dip-dyeing. fabric, yarn, and fiber
• An extensive directory of recipes for dyeing with
madder, safflower, indigo, cochineal, alkanet,
and many more, to create stunning natural colors. Techniques and recipes for dyeing
• Readers will also learn how different natural
fabrics, yarns, and fibers at home
dyes will affect the colors obtained on various
mediums, and how to work with mordants.
E VA L A M B E R T & T R A C Y K E N D A LL
The Complete Guide to Natural Dyeing Fabric,
Yarn, and Fiber is a comprehensive guide with
complete instructions and plenty of dyeing
inspiration to get creative—the natural way. Using
natural dyes to create fabric, yarn, or fiber is
simple, eco-friendly, and surprisingly affordable!

Eva Lambert was born in Germany, brought up in the United

States, and now is a UK citizen living in Scotland. She opened the
Shilasdair shop on the Isle of Skye in 1998 and sells exclusively
natural-dyed yarns. Eva has given talks, hosted workshops, and
has been the subject of various exhibitions in the UK. She has done
historical dyeing for the Victoria and Albert Millennium Exhibition.

Tracy Kendall has worked for 25 years at Central Saint

Martins—London’s most prestigious art school—teaching students
from Foundation to Post Graduate level how to design and print
onto textiles. She has her own internationally successful design
Paperback, 81⁄2" x 10", 144 pages
studio producing hand silk-screened wallpapers which are exhibited 400 photographs
and sold throughout the world. She has previously published a ISBN 978-1-59668-181-1
textile dye recipe handbook, The Fabric and Yarn Dyer’s Handbook $24.95
(Collins and Brown, 2003). Available February 2010