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JTJNE 1945



bY ESTHER COOLEY PAGE Extensioi Clothins Specialist

EUi Enlland cliffil. in its nr6Dil. rarietl has exacting \*rdroi{ dcmands. Coais ccsfoltable .noulh for rigorors $inlers ofi.rjng prG tcclion lgainsl rlin and sno{ a.jquate lor an unpredictable Fall a. Sf'ring are a Froblem, They are a major budgci ilem shether rou tu mn

)ou coais and rliere that bndget stanr: Prolessninai resulls . .a$ elcn lor bcginners. \Uhai's horc, $h.n ma.le of lhe ine ne$ malerial: $ easilr alailable jn shops and mill-end stores in this area, coai ests aD kr rorc than cut in half. Old oatings and suiiings also prodde matena,s lhai
need no


one eood coal or need sereral.

anolog!. Nho doesD't take Dride in producing

qualit, garment at lit1l.


Remodening $'ill be situplii.d, cldhin! .are and reDair johs easier, a.d FL be a much bctler jrdgc of qualit} nr coats }otr buy, il }on M{IiE I CO\T.

iailurs in Mknrg coais, So, plan careful!} belore bqing alr nelr ftateriais and belore ,rou slalt constrlction. A coal is . comrosiie garne.t. Se\ e.al rrF: oi fahrics and icchniqu.s must be blended shoolmJ.,. This does not tuean a .oat is dif,icult to make ioverer, Ior ibe fabdcs inlolred are easl to mnale and the dassictailored stllesusualJl selcctedare rnirrsally becohi.g and eas\

PLANS FOR SUCCESS Tnne is ioo short. Don.y to Dre.iaus, a.d saiisfactions too inporlant to.isk

f1istakcsofju&nent in
nr relaiion io

choosing slyles, maierials ard construclion techniques

io.g as thet musl? 1'lust this coat surrile rough $ea'l

}ou nee.li can be aloided it 'Lou consider: COST ]lo$ much.an )ou $end:' \{hat strlcs and mat.naE rrill

last as

USE $ill !n all-seaen and generll.popose coal snit )oru ne.ds? Shosld ltis b. an in-betseen seasn sble, roo'nI enouEh to rear orer suitsor ssealers lor .{ra $ mth, or be $tuh enough in itself lor $inicr {.ar? \ftat fabrics or .onstNciion {ill pturide the }earhlh }ou vaDl and still be l,eht in }righl? \r:il t'ou harc s$.ral coals oi urling {eighis and st}les in your $rrdrobe?


Do lon


a goo.l basic color o. a coat thal i.cents

p Pas! eileicnces
clues to

silr bolh ready-to-sear aDd nade-at-lDne oats ofier eme problens in making a coat, $ ere rlur coats on{ortable in $eighl

and 61, eas) k) vall or sit in? satis{actor ,"? $rhai qualities

Wqe the}l durable, easy to are for and otheryi* will ,ou repeat and shat a}oid ir the oat you

YOLTRTECHNIQUE 1'oURPATIENCE YOURTIME How much of these c.modities do you harr io exlend in making this garment? If the}, are limited, ch@se malerials that are irn, but pliable, {ith a slightly roqh surlace llat onceal @nsLaction to some er_tent. Selecl pati.rns yith as fee


SOURCES OF I\ISPIRATION Clip pictures of sil.les and linishes that appeal 10 )_ou. Windos shop. Photoeiaphic illuslrations of {astening arrange-

me.ts, pockets and top-stilching details


be a great hclp in making your


Dquipmeni adequate lor home tailodng is simple. Mosi iiems $iI be found in an) iome. Itetus described de als desirable

,or routine care and repai. of cloliing.



cuiiing the largcst

paltern pie@s for sesing. Malerials gct out of shape if they are lifted or dragged around much. Pleci* tailoring is almosi impossible and lhe $hole job slowed up if the vorking surlace is inadequate. lf nc Iarge table is alaiiable, a 50 x 40 inch piee of plr$ood or \i!ll bo d that can be us.d on chair backs or card tables {ill


CHINE-sec U.S.D.A. Farmers Bul,elin No. 1944, 'Seving lUachine, CI.an-

!'UI-L LE\CTH MIRROR sce )aurs.lr


sheas to tut medim or healT *eight coatings or tou will dull ttem. Tape line yardstick 8" x 12" flat metal square
dressmakers shears, Do not use pnrkinq

$eights for tDldi.e patterns in pla@ lailors clalk (cla), val, or french X depending on tuaterial) daning oilon for tailor tacks needles, shaDs ad lEtweens assrted 5 to 10 silk pins.


is neceiary for

IRONING BOARD a sil padded board

pressing u@1. Padding shorld be abo$ tkee{ishths inch thick and in one piee e lhai there ee no senm or ridges. Old w@1 blukets *e g@d as they ' giv." Eder pressue e tiEt steams imDrint and shine are less likely to result. Corre shodd be lintles. Medim ,eighi unbleached muslirr

ali sizirg


d pre$ doah from ehich (lte


been remved, or old shets

a healy coflon cloth eld ulder such names as 8{z Dres cloth, ddll, allclc or boat-sail doth. Re@t all siziDg bclore Esi.g. A one yard lengt, wil pmvi& tm 15" pres cloihs and the 6' leD$rr beeded

l. lor s@1,


ae ne&d)

for @ledIg a sleelt olsbioL Ke, oE doth for presing llti udoft for &d. colors. 2, Ralons, silks, tttuk oato6 dd lies @d
ihe protection of thin cott@ ak th
3. For fabriG that

d cbee-


sot tiss e *Epfor

cloth used


blch or ihir a|l.d .l,ab


Id uDt. THIN CARDBOARD or bar, ErEing patd stips to slip under seans a.d Fak t aaps and btreen hefr lalec lo awid liese
apDlyjng moishrc to

PRESS BLOCK or slappr o{ beary, ridrsm@thed w@4 simitar in sl!.pe and lize to iuushalion. Tlis is in'tuable f@ presdDg



or pleats

shapb uithout <lri.ind

'AILOR',S CUSHTON {sfur fo. DKdng sucb cuved seafts as ar,,B,r dartr E*liDes, ard sleres. A ldiety of eble shnIEs and sizes are aeilable, or, ,Eke you om. The long oral cushior illustated is a ge.pr.[y useful slare. A six-inch length of pre$

.lnth or similar fim @tton is needed fnr @veriogs. Wash thorcughly ao re@re al sizing. Cul tso 6 t 15 inch piees. ShaIE ihem as shoM in diagram. S.a4 cing stro.X thled and short stitches. L6re a 3 or 4 inth opening on one side {or shrfiingStutr tiEhtll wilh ravetings or filely {t piecs of coloFfast fabric. Old $ool ssst&s. bathing sdts and knit $ool underwear mke the best stufiing. If slighaly dmpee4 it *ill pack nore tighilr dd a harder dshion cn

IRON sm@th vrith prrafin or and wiDe trefore usins.



CHOICE OF FABRICS Coats ma) be unlined and ma.le of onlv one kind of mterial Or thex ia! be rine.l. i erlined a.d intedaed irlol}inA the cunbination of sever.l reeights,

teitues and 6bres. Care musa be used to balan.e theii choi.e and treatreni, othetuie the coat will l@k staDeless and homemde. ln general aloid chosing linings, inierlini.gs, and iDte.faciigs that are too
thict or stifi to be conrbined $ilh the @attg. In a cotupcile g melt like a @at, one falaic lEv be Ged to .ohpen$te
for a lack oI some neede.l qulily in oihers aaailable. For exmple, a il.ol inter_ lininq may be used to dke up for lack of Mtmth tn @ting or lining *ctions. A firm close $eale inierlacing may help io rcirfor@ butionholes so that thev are less likel, to fra, oui in a @ se-tlread, l@se-ssle coat fabric lt is a geat conlenience in neking butto.hole @nstroction {here othcr rethods do nol sho{ up. A tun solt idterlacing ma, aid in shaping colla.s and lalels iir a toc $ft material and makine thd l@l ]lerl-hilored-


God mol coaiings and suilinss de an economv. Thev $ea forye s and 6 often b mde oler and over again wlh lerv satisi2ctory rc${ts. Lok oter *hat you hale on hand before tou buv new. Ii )ou ae bqing .e{ mterials, @nsult voft pattern and bry the lardage


pattch Glls for, mless you are experienced enough to dt more econoojotl)' yo( Mierial oretull] to see if it has $me qualities that mke vedage deman.Ls. tlas you Mklnl "nap, " or a plaid or stdDe? what are the sbrinkase Dossibilities? Urness fabrics .re s@anteed in

il is

dd }inds of tool as well as otho libeE ontained' The vord "$ool" on a lnbel ind,otes a fabric m.le of fresh unused fiber' "Rerroc.s*d \u@1" mstu ll'al thc woot 6be' las been qoven bBore' bul
be labele.l 10 sho$ percentage

witing as thosughry shrulq fn, this. Buy @lors lhat are fasl to s@, {ater, drv cl@ning add perspnation. R.;d hhels. Studv theit tueanine. Today, the lao rcquires that \@l labriG

iilar lo.lluw so;c mrgin

EX].E\SIO\ LUAaLE'I, \o.


nekr Mh_ iReused $!ol,,means that ihe,iber has be.D usld before, si.ritized, and relorked irto fabric, A labet dcsribir! ,,iil perccni 30 p.rcent r NJ r(ool. 2u p., . (nl rlon" rE, he a {t'sIa.1,,.) idb., rool, jt,r j.ujrll $unl rsorg.noqu.trtj. (ollon.,dJ.ion<(ndlcrJt,(so,,...o,.ir-r--t.o.!\., rul.I

rhi'cs {'ilh Lsr'han


pc,!\nl \oot tLire ro ..qool nJrf!h.. oI nateri.l is noi depcndenl ofl

ror $intcr

$cighi, but on lle knrd of nber, its {.are and 6nish, As ret flrcre ls no tab.i! so $arm as a good g&de of nes wool. thc sealcr,s !ejgirl. ll.arr,sln mlteridtstr<\\nt a.ri,.t)..ont.,.,utr ro rrt.eu. .,ndm-, rnnu(nrcD@, roslu.. Ha.sir .mooll r.,bric.. o, !t h. \u,.dJo r rolJ rork o4Jy anrsiredt dr \.rm!.. rnoi. ptiobt!,Jb.!.. ont: _or\ rdf i.dr! righl \\irh'an,t rd- cnoueh to. a \t tt r.mosl,ier(, but ,,{.hd,nrt on I nd\ da!s d( tuo opca' unl(ss.nr.r\.t sil., t !i.lty rofer rao,i... :.r, 1J t"\.r. or lhin mahridls turmrkr t:1.,"r t,."., r.,..,irt. FcGu\ o rh\ I rfd( inrb,i{u1cd hc s(tr the.ar..s. " Ti{htl). {bLen fabics hale a lendencl to stre.t rain aEri sno$ and ar. hore dirl lesislant than loos. $ales. Some ratrics are rreatcd so ihat ih.r are '.ialircl, \!!th{-p,oot, Lmd n.\ {oo, is n,lu,r ) ..u.t, ,"..,", ._. . great adlartage in coal upkeep, " Uaterials should be light in aeight. or ai teasl jn proporiion ro

coats re(ember that warm|])


l:or_1,{e wedr, iLord tuoscl so\en. ri,\t,t ri-ri..s riorc 5ulacc. aho th. tind .t,it ar, tilJei t,, _dl o ru/, up

\(._ ! \r ibr


For slod ard c.sual $ear trree.ts, chrcks and ptaids, home{uns. namits. e-- mrDo ra ! ics an.l .orduror a.r eood. \r1nr Lirds o, r.\ri.! 1.! edh! l:

srnolh FnislcJ fdb'!. : ! -ued. t*oad.tn,!

:,I-l-1".s{g\..n!rron \.iou, i1d n(c,n\roi4,. ro, d.... \@- :LJh Ju,...i.,., t,er i, -er!:nr.r-

Sho\rcr-!,rool .olion broa.icloth ard 6ne tsills are lood lor raincoats, piqles. no\cllr o,ttoE. .i\on. a lJue t5eir ph!e, t\tnnoiorctq.\orrnJ,dmct:!r. Ccbi.d nc. sh,r ord. i rd do\s.-r r,! a ,,ore ,. . r .oit drf,:

Ljnilgs are an eas!, atthctj\e 6nish for the insi.te ol lhe
coar and


qonrsniy bc

on ard ofi more

easilr. Steeles are intedincd to make the coar rrarmlh unj;; Ra\or's mrlie !\ .rI!nt dn.t du.rhle tin.Iqr, \\oolr J,.rsc-.rJ .\rdhrs ro ,,u' sn(N ro rncrr ! I .p(i r iu".q(e. ( 5.^ri i on i, erddc :r, 5.rtr *,rrn t,pc that \vill not pull ai rhe scrm
Silk should be ,!ure-dle,,ro be durable.

\!bol flarnels.1 i,.iAht .o'ur-.p'Jid!.tidino\t\.o,,,t ,(r lh.n .1or. trr"r. u\d, slc\ re< sSout.t he tin.d iit5 ."lon -o thd, lt! .oJr -t,de5

\loceri/!.1 ,otronj ,r tr{nr a,. suitroll Lr u.rjr n<-1... .orts ut .,!sh,

Insist on pre-shrunk, fasl color, perspiratio! and sirot-prooi oualilics.


hlerlinings add look clums\'. OIdor neN naDre.l cotton $oren sool ol quilled lamb's wool be used, Wool adds more $armth than cotton.

INTERLININGS vaimth but ii they are too heary ard thick ihel nuke a cctrt


Single ot double interlinings hal be used thtaughoui or in seclio.s. For cMmplc, jf the body of a .oal is lined {ith flanDel and the sleeles wiih ra}!D, the @at,Ey be inlerlin.d thtuugholt $ith a si.gle laler of outing flannel and a double Iayer used i. the sl.ercs. A single or double intetlining is frequedlly used in the lops of sleeres and in the back of the shoulders ool).

oainh tlrrouqh the

"uiind Lrreaker" tlD.s ol intolining, usunlly cha ois ot suede, are used shoulders id tle lack of the coat do{n to the waist, Such

i.terlininqs nay lrc petmnently atiached in Ore coat or made detacirable wiih a lining on one slde. $ thet may De added onl} as cold $eathei demands.

Inlerfacings a.id "body an.l shape," Aroid using lM heall, sti( fabrics as ihe coa! may look unwield,. Tailored str'lcs, or coats of soft or loose v.ave maiedals. ma-\r Dced the addi_ donal stifiening or firmness interfacings prolide. Collars, lapels, cuffs, shoulders, and lacing scctions may need this lreaiment. SoIt, mediuo!*eilht laM, lnbleached oi bleached muslin, or old linen Drav used. Nig8in clolh is a fabric mrde specifically for this lurpose. Intefacirgs hust Lre thoroughl, sinunk and all sizing remoled belre appltirrg

STAY TAPE1 One-.ighlh inch {id. cotton or linen tape or a narro{ slriD of soft .otlon selrage is nccded to stay facin8 and armsqe seams. lt Dral ale be nee.led to keep neckline, yoke and oiher *ams fDfr sketching. Shink all iap thomulhly beicre appl),ing. SEAM BI\DINC: Silk or a fim teave laron ribbon bnxhE is useful in 6nishing hems in open hem coais. A one-balf inch strip oI sehage torn or cut lroa )our ralon liDin! and lbe fa$ edee Dressed uf,der !nar_ serle ttis purpose and prole more d(able thln some taDes yo! can buy.

in! andthat

Choose Eood qualil) bulions ihat sill sla.d *ear and drr-, clcanharmonize vith ihe coat strle and material.lf desiiaDle str_les and colors are difiicult to nnd, fabric olered ores usralb look vell .nd mav give salisfactoia ser!i.e. Hdle then colered or nake them you6elt. Sce page 22


TIIREAD: Choose good grad., color-fast se$ing cotton a shade darker than labri.- Size 50 mererized.oiton is uscd in mediutu {eight .nats. Hea!, dutv ihread is uscd for armholes an.l necklines o! all tlpes of @ats and throughost
healy coatings. Seving silk mar be used for nrside seams shere exita slreDglh


are desired.

SHOL,_LDER Pr\DS: Smoolh fitting broad shodder lines detuadd the "right" shoulder pad. Buy the stlle suited to eals:nd ihe armseve line tvpe vou a.e



Ney *aol silt shrink alone constru.tion lines shrunk before it is ma.le up. l{}rile some e@ds are eid as n ._

if it is not ftoroughly

enough lo "draw in,, around the hargin, )our coalirg mud att bc shtunl. Fis _l Milenajr mJy strint tenrth$ise and " sn ryise froft one ao three or more inches per

shrunk, unless,ou ttusr the:tuara.ree. i;r i corncr o{ }oE iablic Ior shrir ias before ror start ottina, Basre a r$rt\c inch $uare Jnd slum prcss rt. tI lhis corneL shrinli

slh.k {here puched, tailor, or dry clea.er, or sMnt ir rourseli. Tvo ilems aie needed:
Materials nay ,E



!o! \irh

A thin hoard of somr neunjie.l. mo-sam rounJcJ edsrs, aboul JO,!10,.

sizing musl be remole.l berore using DElio Seams or hems shordd be remoted from oi.t sheets or lne! ma,Ieaye their impnnt. Shrinh Uiool as fottoss :

o. oki ,rou coa! ing and al least thiitj-tM jnclres ride, -{n,
sheets about one yard longer lhan

L.ngihs of medium-seight


Straighten maleriat so rhar edges and

threads are true. See Fig. 2, Clip *lrages. Ara.ge coa{ing nith righr sid.s togelher so tha! sehages de eren an.l all threads are true and srraight,

Wel the cotton sheet, wing mddately dry


sEead t1 out flal.

Plae @lins on lup of thc sheel. so lhal lhe shel e(ends tBenly inches or ftore D)ond @alirg. l'ig(e 3 shows this an.ngemenl. ABCD tepresents the slret, EFCH rool @tirg.
Fotd sheet end CD up oaer @lif,g end GH.


Lay the Lrotud (lt) on Lp of sheei, trosswise of ma1eri.t, tud ercn wilh line Wrap sheet and @ating over a.d ove the bodd. Aaoid tension and Material is left wapped from 4 to 8 houJs or hore, or ontil the moist@ pene-

U oll.

Sr,rcad {he coaiing out flat and arlow ft ro dry


Itessing $ith aD non is usully unrccessary. d. rhod d(s(ibed on pisc ll,





Lining, irterliDing and inledacings usually need no tealhent before ahey are Test for saler-spotting and color faslness it there G any uertainty about this so that you $ill know iI you mus! u* caution in prssing to avoid unsiglrtt, spotting. Shrinkage should be checked on tm, as it muld be un{ortunate to har inside fabric layers draw. Sizing should be removed rrom interfacirgs.

ude uD.

If childr.n's


mct sta.d {tuhing, all fabric Ged

slDuld be {aslEble,

or $ashed before they ee ma.le uD.



Maklng new @ats from old coats, stits, skirts, or dreses is ver) etisfyiog. They are olten 6 altactive and iull, as duable as those Dade lrom nev maiedals. Examine fabdcs dosery nrsa to be sure thq *i{ nake a ne* garnent




Scratch threails and hoid fabrics up to the

tghi to see if they

ofi nano$

lvhere old garmerts mEt he ripped, use a stitr ore-edge razor blade. Cut *ms, ii Mtenal isn't too pre.ioE.

bc poslDoned unlil iftcr lhe oal is .ul. \mrlrhohsanJlea6 ^lcndine rniy Mv be Jr ni.l s as lo be quile in.isible Eins slrro,ls oi hman han, o,la bric rMlings. Pockets, buttonholes, a.l ale.olatile details ma, be used to @ver

$orn sDots or aears. Any slashes shotdd b? basted io a piece of thin otton before d.ansi.g or dyejrg to prerent umecessar) stretchiri or t.atin8.

Worn dd ilreadbare coatings ce oiten be Mde up wong side oui, elen if thele is a p{cnounced 'tight" and "srons.' r E} look slEbb} elen on the Mons !i.lc. ! dnse ol Jrc maj rerue lhtd. Prcss and lrue all pieces b.forc cuttilg. Mark {ith chalk or bastif,g indiating lhe drniihl grd;n. ,Urecl:!,n ol nan, Io Jirlinilish righl and {"on3 sides o{ (a.h *ction and all dMged aeas. Mark atl these item .learly oq the woDg side of the labric to aid in cutling. See Fge 14.

Cledse all fabrtcs thorou{Uy Lre{ofe Mking coat. Renove staiG likel} to 6a1. USDA Farmers' Duletin No. 1477 on "Sliin R.moval" giles suggestioc. Some $@1 and raron fabrics ousf be d'1' cl6ed Olhers m, be lamdered, It is safesa io iest u.ituporfant sdaps to see if ihe}, are
sboN in the nnished

lar . su-

D\TENSION I_iiAFi_ET 5r().


Ldbdrr \\mt or R"\un .iour hysord5 a,e oe !.nrt(. be qur+J u* tuk!_ w-atlr and neulrdt eap. tabri.s rilt roro lh,rr cnlor. -; .h,t;;;;;; or De@he boa"dj it rhis p.,,qdu.e r u,..t l. P,epare lut e\rrm suds belorc iime..rnqetuu.. Rubo.nlioanoltibr.cs

2, ., 4. 5. 6.

ma! shrinl rooi anJ srlrr


Use a Daitin! or clnDinS

aeitalion, cque(zc \dt.r

motion, c@.j $a, I is sc'silile io scrubbing aod

used, loosen.olr Rihse ttroroughty in

frnm a,,oo.. D,, not







p.t..:n; mal "n.t "ro" to (,J f!. m ufl\cc$a,r. ,r F(jsins i, n(.(s,drr. rotr , _,f ,,,=i learc lntil l)arIy dry. press white srili dMp, " "t,.usjng m.l,rod ",i
dnJ \(o.1

ruke$ m Naler. Dry ai a moderalc temDeraiure, Ajtcr \a(hinB. slretch fab.ic in shr^


ii,_b.i],";l: hopeless olherrise it may be {odh lhe ""to .".or* stisht ost and "r", erorr I.lenlit| ll-e 6b.r.f ons.:oie. ls il rtt \o"t. \oot anu co.ron. o, rr.on. ( hoo.e ' )our LlJe lo u,lo' as much or ds ti te nt \our r ,"a r"O,i.. * ,_ "'-,, fi "ir nu"pos\ dye hitl.otur al, thr.ads. .\ $o,,ior .o on,ha $iltd.""-,t,,F".";;,i, A.elalc Rajon ne(J. d sp.,.i!t d)c, \lunotonr \o,n in,r _,r". @ he,d)c.l \irh eirh, r \aot o. olu, d. cs dnd J\r" _,"., "- "_.r'_i, r"..:1,:: ;,;;;];;: t,rn s,.hcrks an.i shircd n.te,ials ma\ be rec,,rnl Rh{inoYhe'I?'ki ind lse(ds mar he r".-!r",i'o '"-,''"'""''""u!d' ''an(lo-blu' 1". lis'r. rtu.rds \iI b( colord Read lhc di'ections p[.n on f rd, t.er u, dt(. Fo n\ thta pylrtrrr ^ Drcinp de . o .omt,in:1q di6e(nt cot,r. iau".c,t".n .; ;;. , {.; "; "'lili Fabric ni) be ..boil dted,, or dlr.l in th. pashing machine_
Dye in ],our ershin8 mchine I 1. Read directuns liren on the dl,e paclinge.

L,\ El\C tOR ]\E\ LI L. lr ..o!rirq st,]j tor,kdu _ rn.(rerit ,urncd J].iI. \\.h:r. b"



loqour tuateriat and for the amounr oi h.ater neede.l ll-e machine. 'tuo o, 1,.e. lime. !s mu.h d," t.,";"r ;i;'ih:: 'un mcthod 6 for ihe boiled prcccss.
Use enough dye


3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Danrpen haterial betore pltiing

ii in .t!e


Dissohe drr thoroughl, before a<i.ling it to bath, Pul boiting tot dr-e bath in machire, Use enoush

dre barh to co!.r

Run mactrine io nix balh thoro{ghll before ad<lirg fabric. Put maieial in dye bath aDd run the ha.hine fifteen or tse.tl minulrr lo"ger Uran packagc direclions cllfu the ,,boil



Follo$ .iireclions resarding rhe use of sall an.t {negar for sefting color. Rep.rr .,lsins ,n coor htrc. unrir no :l:",:""l1ll.'i-T:.:,"r.. or oror rs sno\n rn kaler, Squ(!/p out molru,c ecnt,,, \".", ;i,:." Roll Iab' ic in c barh tusel, ta\ine.tue nu, to rrtow fabn. ro,o oh itscll. Dre knillcd rna( riat on a fl at surra.(. pr.sr Bhit. stitr da.r,: ;;..;::l




Utuemittrng presing, cing the righl method is cssenti.l to a sel iailored eftect. Test techriques on samples lirst.

aed and is still daru, press Ging dry &oL Fes .loth on the righl stde of material. If
$ool is dry appll moishr to the pless cloih

MOL: Il the garment has been laund-

a sponge, btuh, or lhin cloth. Press a patting moaion. Do not ano{ the nqn io stand in one spor for y tenglh of tine,



as its inprint nay slb*. be presed entrrel, dry. For

\ Idl

should nol

press cloth (&oz. drill) on the gament.

Sponge the press Drcssed

sG, hec ed pleats, nlace the dry

cloth. Press



stems. liig 4A. Tun prels cloth back from


and slap the sleaming

qui.ldy sith Fress block. Fig.



mtil 6die sedion is pressed. Se:G are cua]l} pres*d on wong side and ttq or
RAYON ald SILK: Press on the wong side \lilh a wam, neler hot iron, unless a @tton press clotb or a shet of uglazed paod is plaed htween the tuon ud fabric. Motsture must be applied autimly if ai aI, as $me Mtuials wate-spot. Dry dssue or wapping paper n oft.n be @d safel, {ho a drd! cloth wt{d rEke spots.

fabriG @n be pressd as shom in Fk. 5A and B. The iron is Dropped beiween trc blocks and h@ted. A wet press cloth is plaed oler the ironing plane The matertal to be steamed is dra{n oaer the stDing press cloth ith the wong side 10 the press cloth. lt is tho dried on a flat suface. Asid 6nger printing and omdine the

!'EL!tsT, CORDUROY and other


material hile it is damP.

ff a lehet or wre bodd is a)ailable, ln) fabric, Dile surfa@ doM and Dress as for

Dtee ol ,elleteen lace uP on to!.

A fairly satis{actory hor@mde subshtute for a !laet board can be mde of . thick D.d of several layeis of @tton or,(D1, reth a





THE RIGHT PATTERN i slyle slmilar to one lou

,,t--. 'll.j


''t i i :.t.1.|i r, /.: . ri:f,!l I /" -r I i il

aroid disaplonning rcsults if rou coD, ro eme cxtent, efiecis tou llale tried o(1. To aloid tlat "homemade ltuk," choo* srytes )c{ hale tried ixd lound becotuing. Shoulder and silhouetie liDes are basic.
Choose rour most becoming ones. Classic chesterfrcld, or 6lted rccfer sl!-.tes are alnDst ageless. l'ig. 6 nrd 7. ?lbse {,jrh

hale sor! an.l found satislacio4 is a salcr guide for Jou oat than somcthirg "nes an.l djt{eient,,. Llnless },ou a'e cxpert, harc time, and a budgcl nargin for exrcriD.ntation, J-ou M}






,' i,

iill ijrrril -



moderaie or no flare, arc a slfe choice. Dressmalier slyles Niih nolelil etrecls ar. Dore ditricult to bake and predi.t r.sulis. Decoratile dctails are the lcasi inrlDiralt, Pociret shapes, bullonhole placings, olars and lapels.an easil, be changed. Cc.ter_ back s.ahs and @at-tails 6n be elimiuted or lari.d in olher waJ_s. A good paitern is a good siart. Buy one tou an lse more than once $ ihar )ou
havc a chance to get beyond lhe

medi@t size @llars, slceles, and lap.ls, a normal athseye and shoulder tine, and

stage. Choose a t$o{ie.e slee\e panern ,or a narow or medim+idlh sleele_ It

6ts and $etus better ttan a one-piec.. Paitrn and maierial choice go hand in


hand. lf you tue buyin! nes haterial, jlet lour paitern irsl. If it is a make{Le. and
lou are nol reducing ihe
pad.rn lines Nill ne.d to tre similar io ihose oI ihe old coat. For e&mpte, it ma), be nnnossiLrle to exlracl a size 10 pri.ess coat lrod a si,e 12 box coal. Old ragtan sleelc .orls tu,r Dot suppl! cnoagh tuteriat for a s.lin ileele stjle vitioul maling it shorler. Urith n.$. Daterials, y.ight, $.arr. and Iabric design sh d tre l.ft in mi.d yhen choosing a patteh. Plalds an{i stipes are di{iculi tud sonclimes inpossible to tualch if tle paitern has man} picces aDd nolell! lines, espe.ially currcd seams. pilc fabrjcs do ,ot alyar_s ptess easily, s. aloid sb,les
size much, ihe new

$ilh mny

seams for smh tertures. sjze you

sinc! fiesh is mor e v.riaDlc than rhe bust measurehenl is an uniatisfactorl pui.le

buv in ! ''Rc!d)-Mid-.' is your luidc. Bui ..framc,,,

\-,,u bud m.isurlm.nr. notJ

AKD A aOr\T to the best size patlem lo. mauy $omen. Tr, buling tour paltein according to the tuclsureFent taken si(lly around the bcdl at armseye lcrel. l.iC. E. For any
size under 44 ad.t ?r/ to


thir a.tl


i.rnseccordin!to this size. Forlhos who

heasure 44l/ or mor.. add



4// rn



the bcst


paltcrn size. This usual]

lircs a more acc!6te guide lor bulnrg Datter. sizcs tfian llre bust measue.


32 to 52 bosi

Miss 11,13 and 15 or hust 29io 33 Girls 6 t01]l or breast2! to32 chirdrens and nfants N to 6 Lil{e Boys I 1o 6 or chest 20 to ?4 Bols to 16 or chest 24 to 34 - 632 to 50 Mers
Siudy,our patteh. Chect pallern de-

:0 io201rs, or bust 28 to38

befor. r-ou cut. Your patterD tu} suit )ou and }roe roteriat "as is," or ,-,ou may prefer minor
siEn and measuremenls size

o. design chDges. Fashio. dippings should be helpful in relating ,our malerial and pattern and indilidu.lizing the style. lAik for Dockels add fastening details, ton slilching
and other decoralile stitchings, braid, cords, quilting, and mings. Pla, as d.iniiely as possible before lou cut-


a6d }elrci trim-

tdeltify all pattem pie@s. Soit out sections to b used. Group basic and trilmiryi piees and decide if the' suit yos as the]' are, or if they rced sode
cbange. Bacls, Ironts, lacings, sleeles, and co,lar seclions are basic and usuillv

\ilrjaljons, Faci,g and col!:r seclions ha] b cdi $ider or narro*cr alls for, to suil the $eiEht, weave, and material aQilable. Facinls snould be 2" or more $ide ai the shoulder seam and as long as the oai. For ease of .orstruclion and a belter il, the lacing should NOT be cdt *ith the

than the palterD

Tdmmine fiec.s such as cufls, pocliets, bqitonholes, and beils mrsl be cut 1o suit the resre and anr, ra,rric desiq.. They ar al$ dependent for size on the weight .n.l lhiclolcss oi th. .oaling, These de'ails tue Gually cut the same grain of the loods :s the bod} sedn,rs. ll tuat be saier to postpone cnlling them until ifler all otter seclions are cut and the coat desiln ,isualjzed h.re cjearly.
Check Orerlap. This ca, be adled to mal:e a $.mer coat, or subtracted, materi.l is limitcd cr a ligller *cight @at desired,


e.mpdc measurements sitlr a coa1. Patt.n measu.edenis ma, be comDared yo( o$n before cutti6g. It is m(ch safer and less conJusing, hoPerer, 10 pretrabl, of similar size, seight clre.k pattern measurelrents with a coat thin paper patterns sometimes a.d s1]le as the o.e )on are making. Although lo.k misleadrnlly lar:je, the) are uslally fouDd to agre $iih the measuiements ol a coat. Fi!. 9A and B, Mcas&ements to be checked are:



IEnslh front, from shodder seams at

neckline 10 hem

Back. from shoulder .eckline to heft



Slee\e, alobg flndeEm seamline

Bust, tuound bo.ly aboui 3'l be


low lo{est adhole c(!e tuound bod,L about ?" beloy

Sleeve, around tud at upper arm, elbo{ and loser arfr


B sure this is ample. Heavy lM*-sear. materlals tuay



or hore


If ,ou m$i

plan oD a :rlctdosn. ho* much.nra s.ill tP needed, and hoe side a heR sill tfiis garment standl

Perlorations- Disiancc lrom froni faci,A

scam. T$ice this meas6ement minls I" for *am allo$a.ce vill gile the amount of


Cutting and narlin8 a coal ror constructior are fully as imporiant and Lime .onsming as a.) oiher Dhase of lailori.!. Exanine labncs in a g@d light.

\\'ool coalings are 54 to 60" *ide and are usuall, lolded double silh ihe rigtt side inside. Be sure that vrong and ght sid.s,
straighi of the goods and nap are identitied_ I1{ill be easier to cut and assemble thc oal lf ihe anong side is marked on ihe straight grain *ilh cbalk or basting and an aror poiniing in 11r diredni.s oI the nap.

If there are any damaged areas, f,ark rhem clearl, on the wone side oI coating using chalk or basting to make them easie.





Cut coating vlth the nap running the same way in all se.tions. In medtm and short naD materinls, it should ru uli. Matk the dlreclion eith affo+. t4ng p labrics tue cut witb Mp ruminE dosn.


Cut sith twil tuin8 lrom upper lefa to lower rigli. Space in becomiDg relation 10 the Checks figur and to seam joinings. If


if they sill interfere sith ihe efieci of conslrtrction. True mterials so thal tbearlr are pedeclly stratght. Fold all maledals or, iI Eamenl is
sehges a

and the eme moiif ros through Slripes: ,ratching notches, designs vill usually rutch. Clip or trim

remke, atra.ge all *ctions eith RIGIIT SIDES TOGLTHER. Pattems are pla@d on the saong side o{ ahe material, s 16at construction m.rks on be more usable. Iiy out all necessary Dattern sections before cutttng. Fi8. 10. Marktngs that indicale the posiiton lor ihe st.aight of the goods should be placed e\a.ily on ihat gain. Coats vill not lit, ha.!, or $ar wcll if cua off srain,

CUT ACCURATELY Coal sectio.s qn be 6tted togelher *ith a minimum oI efiort and .lifricdly if you . , . Cut and ha.dle a[ coat sections in pairs.
intedaci.g sections pimed
assemble the

Keep all tike coatine lintag, inlerltning and


paits wilh

right sides together until ,ou aie ready to


This practice



time- endless con{usion and mistakes in

Weight patterrs in place rath.r than pinf,ins them. Fig. 11,\. This speeds up alterations in hens ard seanN, Mrktng @rstruction lines and culiinE. lt s hed on patterns to pi. tlr.m 10 heavy labrics and sometide. thlows the tuaterial ofi erain. To insue insiie and outside sectioG ftting weu, as v(ll cut as ease of cutting


-using guide

paper pattern as


Lininjs -uth coating pattems

seclions for

Interlinings bI linine sections




Interfacings th emc size and grain !s the coal lacing, coltar ad

underfacing, or jf more reinfor.emcnt is nec.led. use coaling fronl and back as


Cul coating 1itsr, Mark all qtring and @nstruciio. Iines carendly. The marring

delice nce.led depends .n hos long

needed as an aid



the gafrent, and hos $cll thc haterial shoss or hol.ls the mark. Tailor's chalk or pencil qn be used if thet do nor mr the labric, 'laild tacks oI &rnnrg c.tion, pins, basliog, pressing, and.utnotches atl

in thc construction of

hale a DIa.e. Cutling lines 6nd notches .an usually be marhed nith chalk. Pin through paltern Nrforaiions to mark seams, .larls, llicLets, and center front nedorations. Fig- 118. Thcn remore
True up cutling lines using ta dstick or


baslinls using yardstick

shaight scam lines $iih chalk or or square for

Cut $,ith shenrs. Ii seanB tu. crookcd and choply the itupriot of this iregularitl $i,l ror l1E etr a. A "!inked" finish is


i. a tined coat.


drssmalter pinl.i.E sheas $ill be ddted and spruDg if used 10 cut healr or medMark enter

and rcckline

lroni, tuse].e, sieeye top a..l c{nhr notches silh


tailor tacls madc of darming cclton. Fig. uD. Sucn mrks *i11 su.Lile as ting as
Cenler front lacks are left in the

lardent until after ihe buttons are se$ed on as.n aidin fitting ard placnrg luitons.

ort outward it such indicitions $ill last

Armsele and nccklinc notcles






irilus t.cl,s or baslir!, NIarft dais $ilh single pjns th.ougn paltern pedoratio.s, As $on as gartuent is cul Din tluooah ftier 1ar.r ot coalnre. Alter tailor tacks are complelcd,

Nlark Dockels nnd buttonholes $ilh

*patate coating sectio.s and seture pins.

These e in position lor pinning daris in plac as mn as lining is oi.

fIAKE r\



CollaG, cutrs, bullonholes, pockels ald sometibes faciflg siz.s and shapes should be Mrked out orelull) to suit the ihickness, {,ea}e and design of rhe @ating. Ctreck on stlle aml size ol these inishes i. radr-toleear garmelts similar to the coat you are raking. The colld size nar need to be laried if .@ting is thinner, thicler or stiffer {En the t}pe th. patten was designed lor, Yo ma, need to tuake one or more irial buttonholes or pochets in order io work out the size and t,pe most hecomnrg to your p.oposilions and to the iabric and style of coat lou are making. Se page 23 lot conshtciion details.

COLLARS - Srandard classic styles


best if upper collar seciion is cul



enter ba.k on lenglhsise stEight of Smils af,d ihe

rap directions. The underlacing is seamed and thai seam cst on a true or definite bias and thc interfd.ine cul nn J lrue hrac folJ.
FABRIC BUTTONHOLES If l)ossible, cut one strip long enough io jnclude all buttonboles. 'Ihis shorld be 2" liDger th.n the lenEth of tlt buttoDhole

dd 1" {ider {En dteeter of bulloc 1o be used. If buttons are loo lar apart lor ilris plar or material is insufficient cut individel faci.es about 3" side for each butlonhole and 1" longcr ihan button diameter. Mai.hitg o.
contrasting grain


be used.

LOOP BUTTONHOLES - Cui pie.s 2" lide and 3" or nbre lor8 for each lmp or cql ! strip lone enough to make several loops. This my be cut on the straight or true Di6, depending on th. va, the ffiterials lurn. toops will red betier cut on

ih. straight,

BUTTONHOLE POCKlllll look like large size bullonholes, are easy io tnnke, and are use.t in man) typs ol garme,ts. In thin or Eedium {ight datends the entire pocket can be @de in one piec. and of the @aliqg tabric, Cul this $ider than the lrim eEect aDd about 2 r/8 tines tbe deDth of the pocket. For a 4" pocket a 5" x 8" d.ce of fabric do. Matching or a onhasting







lool $ell- ln heavy coatin!

FLAP POCKETS lake liitle maierial, are a perennial slyle falorile, a.d ile pieces are necessary for eich pocket.


Fiap .- I @aling and 1 lining sectioni aflow 1" for seans Facing 1 .oating section 2" lo.ger than finished flap br 3" wide Li.inra 2 seclions 2//qlder than finished flap and 2" longer than pocket
lrght veighl coating, only three pieces per pocket are needed, one flap sec-


tion and lwo hing sections cut of


STAND POCKETS take the least miterial, but stlle .nd constructior ate Coating Mieri.l eno{gh for ihe ' stdd ' is needed. One liring se.tion 2" $ider thm the pocket opening aad twice its deDlh and a getreroc seam


aUowance is also necded.


POCKETS Mor natedal is rceded .lthoueh

patch pockets



is more elusile from a siyle and suhabtln, 10 garmert standpoint, thrn ee oiher styles of Dockets. For the sidplesl trpe, .ut one coatiDg piee allo{ing lot a top hem and %" seams, and

in may deoratile



lining section for ech pockel.




cUT Ux"l\GS using.oating sectjons as pa0ens lo irsure lhirg being exactil like coaiidg. True edses .arefully. iueasure cenler back tenglh of coaiing and refold $itll rjght sides tosether. ReDress, if necessar!. r1ss uder a ,,, or vider lold alons crease lin. to allo$ for stack needed arong ccnier back of lnri,g. Harc fold as lrng as @ating centr back, Cnt back $itir sla.k tot.!. Use lacing ad o2t Lo,t to oork olt lrant lining seciions es fouous:

matching. OutliBe top

LaI .oating tacing *ilh inside


o. facin! sitl

seam along tlhing selr.g.s and straight grain this Une aml the lining se! ts.in{i facing in to this line and &a$, Iengthwif *am linc. ptace coali,g

.une, Meanue in 1//from

coating aDd laci"s seciions and cui.

front seaG matching. Mark around coaiing. Reaole


of coating tacing

is "tront lining = siu .nd shape of oating

+ a l',


size an.l shape

seam allo*ance.,,

fi te,gih.

'Ihey ma, rarr_ from 2'a belov the Ioler cwle of the artreye to a hem,s {idll shorter than tlrc liring. Sleele inierlinings should end above the elbow line or Lrarelr underlap the.utr line. Fig. 12. Cui

CUT IN?ERLININC usirg linjnE sections as patierns. lnt..li.ings can tre padial or

inier,ining fronts, back, and sleeles like linings, but shorler, \o centetsback lold is needed in the if,terlining. Darts are entirelt cul out aloDg s.am lines or cut allosCUT INTERFACINGS using the @atidE facing and collar lnderfacing ior patterns. Or if a lar!.r rcinlorGment is needed- use the @atin! front and lacing and the bac&.


darls are enlnelJ., cul oul ot inleriacings or o'1 allo$inq %" scam. F,a. 13-




COMPLETE COAT AS SOON AS POSSIBLE ]$.TER CUTTING. coai fabrits ierd lo streich aloDg the dt e.lges il allorved to remain nnslirclEd lor anr' lensth ol tnne.


Do LI KE JOBS AT ONE 'l ltr1E. Cha.sing processes talies tihe and effort. So sire time b, doing as moch of ea.h liird of @nslruction rs possibt. at cne inne, that is, .utling pi.ning stay-stitchjng baslin! pressing ctc. The order of conslructio. d.soib.d in the fotlo$ing paragraDhs may
GROUP LIKE COAT SECTIOIiS in orddb .nd logial piles lor assem-


iring. A co.l $ilh ils lini.:: a.d possible irterlining and nne(aci.g secdors an be a conJusinE ard erEperatina game.t to l)ut togeiho. you caD etsih get lost i. a maze oldeces if ro! are nol ordert! and s$temali..

So, until you are read! 10 assemble the 8a.ment, keep all parrs oI coaling

sedio.s ptmed $ilh right sides logeiher. Keep all ouier and inner

fronts. backs, slceres. and such accessorl pieces as collars, pockets, buttonhole and l'.lt sections grouped each in their separate piles. If an nnerlning is uscd, plae ea.h ihterlinif,g section wilh iuzr side relt to tlre correspondrng lining secltoo.

4. \t'OR( 5.

EASILY NITII MATERIAI ILAT on table to alotd dragging it oul of shape, Tliiri construction poinis through and hare them dght the tust time as ripping ma] strelch mterial and $asies ttme.

FLAT FINISHES such as piped or looped butlonhcls, flap, stand or buttonhole pockcts, abd ddts shodd be coq,leted as far as possible benm coat is seamed. Darts are pinned at dght an8les to se.m ltnes,
pressed lightly, and seaft line marked and basted

6. 7.

HANC COAT @rctully after conslruction is


Do rot fold.

PRESS ALL SEAMS THOROUGHLY as soon as they are stitched See page 11. Seam should be pres*d open wherever possible to avoid the bulk o! olerlapping materials. Elccss bulk should be clipped from corners. under sams dd inside hems.


ALL SECTIONS HAVING FULLNESS to b eased shot ld be stitched $ith fulled side underneath. The sesing ru.hine feed dogs $ill full the un.ler sction as ihe stit.hin! pio$esses. The pressue scre\t mav need
10 be loosened

to siitch thick seams satisfactorily.


"STEP" SDAMS TO RELIEVE BULK, io postpone tlEt lhreadbde shin, se.m. and to insure a solter *am line wherever t{o seam thiclinesses tue pies*d is ihe same direclion, Tdm sean edges so lhat no t{o erd o. th e sne line. Inside sean ed8es shoukl be naro\ist.


Reinforcemenis ate needed on certain seams and in *ctions of a coat to gile the garmenl "body", heh keep it in sbaDe, and as an aid to lithng. Some ser tions or seam lines are reinforced as $on as a larment is .ul, others 6n be after scams are basted. Darts may hale to be stitched before i.lerfacing rein-

lorements are applied. Star-slitclring is hachine sliiching made through a single thickdess of fabric. Stitches shoql.l be iong eDoulh so thal the under ihread qn be drawn up tI
necessar) bur n41 so long that it shilts lrcelt on its pi.cing in rclation to the seam lines.




puposes depending


Piaed erxctl) on lhc seam line, il is an aid in fitting one se.tio. of the garment 1o another, or to the indi dual All sleele tops, vokes, .ecks,
$aistlincs. and $merimes elbo*s. are sta]-stitched on the seam line. Sleele tops are stay stitched behien double and single nolchcs. If lultness is e\cessit! iwo lin.s oI stitching U8" apari aid in easing in ftrllness. Drss or blouse sleeves are 2 or 3" l ger than the armhole. Coats aDd suit jackels harc 3lr lo 6 or more incles to ease in


Stay-stit.hing 1,/8" from cut edge is useful in keepine loose weat materials from raveltins, and sucl malerials as jersey, organdl, etc., from

orlins. Fi{.




may be laped. One-eilhih inch $oven oi, ton tape or a narro$ sirip oI cotto, setlage is used. All tape musi be slNnk th).oughly b.fore applling, Seim Iines may be taped before or afler baslirg seams togethcr. Fig. 15 sho$s application. 1{ the tape is stiiche.I near one edge $ilh lhe sidcsi palt alay

ele seatus. If fabtic is veta streich, or coat ma}' receile hard rear. all seanr li..r

Taping is applied io front lacing and


from the seam line, the seams {ill be less b!lky. Intedacins is used in tailoied ears ot eft fabrics lr'here more "body" or tutuess is needed. Tlis in.er stay is used inside coll.rs and cufis, and beiveen the facing


and the front of the

iimes useful as a ba* for mdking butlonholes and as a rei.forcetuent to strengtlrcn the bulto.hole delail in rarelly fabriG. Sofi,

coal. tt is $me-

medium-s.iehi nuslin, $iggin cioth, otd Iine!, la$n, or orqandv is used. Selection
interlacings husl be thoroughly shrunk and sizing remored belore appllng them.
depends on $eight of .oatihg.

'ltey d.


to the underside of the

frort of ihe coat and to the undrrfacing of lhe collar. FiE. 16 shows irter{a.ing aughr ro the froni of coat {ith permanent diagoul
Pailding stitches, Fig. 17, hold rhe i.ietfacing nr Dlace and a i. shaping ihe oat.
and roll and shale @llar or Iap.l in the dne.-


In ippljtug this slitch, u* a nne belken necdle (N).10). I lold jnter{acing lpDeuosr


shoul.l lake in


linished gameht.

The ,nore ro{s and the shorier these slilch.s, the more bod, the collar and lape! $iU har a.d the betlcr it $ill hold its shape,



DARTS at shoulde6 ed {aisi line are cor


-[i f

Dleled belore or alter the addition of inteF facings, depending on $hether se.ming the inletlacing at the sa.re time siitrens the seam


Coating darts

and and lrimmed pressed open. r'he slcere custion is Eeful

at mchine stitcled, lo a sasonable *am


thel are lackcd or ciughl by hand o thai

nol machinc stitched. In bettel gatmenls

eament laycrs adjust more smoothly. LiDing dads are basted, pressed and tacked $ith (oss stiiching or fealher siitching al aD Doints of sirain aftd the coat is InterlininA and iDlerlacinE darts are cui
out along eam lines or %" inside these lines aDd @tch-stitched logcther in pla@, For a {ell tanetcd dari -- pin darts at rishi a.gle to *am line Eing marker pi.! Press dart fold. True uD seam line $in! squarc' Baste, Fit. Then stitch fis. 18 A, B, and C. Si.ce it is diiiicult to stitch darts \t'ith an elenly tapered sqm, especially in medium

Lining, interliniDg and inierfaci.g darts aie


and thick fabrics,


en.ts of ddts uith


pins, one at end ol angle and one placd


lrom 1/'8"

3./4" below

thts. Stiich ddt

seam from top do$n on sttaight line to pin one. ften stitch along fold to pin tvo.


Piped buttonholes as $eU as $me bDes of Dockets are more easill made before the oat is sealed. De$gn details .a. bc setlled as eon as the co.ting is cut. Pin up coai froni on aDprorihate hc',line io get a rough idea o{ proDortions, and t4 it on. !'ig. 19. Pir oat front to shoulder and uDderarn sead Check butlon and pocket placings. The actuai butlons for the finished coa! are needed or at least somelhing of the sahe sik and te\iue. SDace butlonholes qrefull'L so that thel @Dform to good desi8n and the current @&, Fot classic strles, the lo*er buttonhole is usually on a line sith the lo$est rosi




tioh for pockel openings. $rork out one or more lrial buttonholes and proporlions lor patch, flap or sladd lochets. If there is an) urcertanny about the size needed, makc flaps, stands, or patch Nckets a littte large at first. lI they Drole tM latee, thc) an be reduced in size $ilh lillle $aste of mateialHaDd-vorked

tb.' atc suiled to rer) tailored gannents for $omen. \VorkinE bultonholes on $ool requires considerable skill and praclice and should not
bols. II scll
bc donc,


tuachi.ernade Duttonholes are used on garments for oldet

allcmpi.d i, \ou doubl \ou ibilil..

PiDed buttonholes o. be used oD all coats for romen and eirls and nay be used on .oats for rry Iittle boys. Thq are eas) to make, require no lieat skill and look $ll lroh a desig1 standDoint on hoth tailored and dress garments. In "mkeoer" nircd butl{)nhoLs are useful in concealing th. Iraled out edges

ol ihe "old" $0.k.d bullo.holes.

6gure DroDorlio.s influence the

Pockels add to the efieciileness of Drost


tlpe and sia oI the pocket chosed

Coat st,res, materials and aDd ils placing.

The size $ill rar) nith the bulkiness of the Sament. Pockets should be Iarger on thick malcrials ihen on tlif, malerials elen in the same size ard sllle of co!t-

In .dult size gdnenls, lock.l oDeninss are nerer Dlaced lo*er than about 1" belo{ the bip bone line. 'lhe, may be plac.d abore this !ine.
For children's coats a losition 2// or more above the wnst line looks well proDiagoMI or 1rti@l placings are figured by lo.ating the middle loint as desoibed aboae. Ilorizontal Dockets are lined up at right aneles to the @nter

Aroid phcing Nckets lm nee the center front. Tle effeca is usualb better if they are .lose to the underarm seam, Mark the pocket posilions arefullv

$ith iailoE chalk or basting.


Coaling or trim naterials @n be used for coleri.gs. Use pearl but1otrs, 1looden butlon Drolds, or rings of Dlasti., bone or metal
Cul ci'cular pic@s of the colering material less than t$i.e the button dimeier in size. Iis.20A. Use a strorg doubie thread


and galher .tuund or orer.ast the circlnF

fcren@ edge o{ iltc orering. IiE.20B.

If truttons or molds are used

as a base, use

a Dadding of colton or {adding iI necessry. Fig. 20C, Coler with labric picces and drae up Saihering. Use lhis same read to sev



of cotton baltt gs or oati.gs just

discs largc enough to 6t inside ihe ring. l'ig. 21 A and B. Th.se suppll |Ire bltton padding and Gn be thft or tai. Cover bulton sith .oaling.ltscs. Dra* 1lp gattering. Fig. i2IC and D. Use a

If rings are Lsed, .ut seleral small

iside ihe nng tne thoueh eniire butto.

thickness. Fig, 2rE.

seif or decorative thread and saddle stitch

Fu buttons o. be tude of scraps of fur, slret vadding, llith old buttons or $ooden
button molds as a loundation and a double length of trilled lape lor the sh.nk. Cut coiton dotir or slieel $adding the size ol lhe button top. Se$ ihe h\o cut ends ol ihe tvilied tape to this and draw the looped end ihrough the hole lroh butron or but1ol

,Z\ (r


mold top to thc uderside. Sew pad.ling securell io iape on 6d.rside ol bdn,n. L'ut a circle of fu latge enough to cohplelel, .orcr mold. Orerost or.rochet aromd cut edge or ship a nanos tape to this edge and

.La{ it togelher orcr builon, !'asten *curely

PIPED BUTTONIIOLES: Trial buttonholes should be worked out in the oating
before nDking them on the garment. If an inlerlacin! is io be used in the coai front,

lrv out one buttonhole efiec! or an interfaced sample and one {iLhout, to see whethel of not the intedacine mkcs the butlonhole l@k chcy- If it does. do not sliich but-

ionhole lacing through iDlerfa.i.! Cut out recla.gular slots a little larger thd the siz of the botlonhole stitcting 1fom the interfacing un.ler each Lrutto.hole- Checl( iri.l


1. mal an itlraciirc efl.cl. lif classic stllqs this should be is.arov as $ili hol.l. The orly exeption to
this is thc large no!.lty buttoEhole
uscful in iemodelling old Satments as $ell as bcihg decorrtile !'ig.22.

Size of the

stikhed reclangle n.eded


The lenlth of stiicb.s .ccessatt for $ear. Tiey should be shrd for


butlonhole trom lac-

(3r Disiarc. oi
cdt is

ing seaDr. For classic stlles, shen



button rim

slrould 6tue 3,/8'/ to 3/4// frotu rhe ,acing seam depending on size of

ed thicloes of fabri.. Sev one ol the coat butrons on a scmD of naterial and ir}l the b6!

1- \Iatk

intedacin! or sro,g side oI coat usi.g tailo$ chillr, bastirg, or pins and a nat melal square. Dra* . l.(l.ler indicating ienelh and spac-

buLlonhole posiiion on the

ing. The r!!gs oi the

2. 3.

ladder tue the top li,e .1 buttoDholes. Fig.23A.

ts ste or Din ihe buttonhole stri, in no.ilion lrith lighl side 10 dght
sidc of coat. [ig. 238. Stitch bulionloles on an eractrc.ia.gul line usiEg a rery short


\ .",,.""e-d'*- 1
*."6.{!;-, \


4. ;.

ltnough bultonlbl.{acing, ilter_ facing il one is {sed, and coatto eithin about 1rl, of ihe recta.gte ends. Cui diagonall) elacfly to
each @rnei. Fis- 238 (toD).

siit.hes al each end. Count thee six 1o l$elve stilches are needed lor strength aooss the reclangle ends. Cut brltonhole facing jn bet$en eac| b(ltonhole. Fig. 238 (op). SI.sh along enler Iine ot rcctangi

stitch. Hav the $tue .umber of


Pull lacings through stits and lJres sharyly on seam line. Be swe that all ornes are smooth. pin the fou @rners of each builonhote io


7. ftess 8. 'lum 9-

noning board to hou rhem raut, scah Iines $ill.ot curve or drav jn in prcssing. Press. Fie.24_
so that

the sead-edges aw.y froh

loner iacing<dge up, \efth


facing{old dosn, e Urat ir frlls the slot about half $ay. Finish upper edge in the s?!nesa,,, $ith seam trning ui, a.d a*nl f.om the seam edge an.t rh ; double fotd of rhe facing cnendin to meel the lo$er edge fold.

10, Baste liped edges in place inmcdiaEly bclorc tut.riat d, ics uur, $ itEt there is a stiehr sDlcr be,




t{..n folds,

ings together e thal the) do do not sepdate as the coal is

Cross-stitch pip-

lhese oi





machirc or hand, back-stitchFis. 26,

ing the i.lerted pleat ed clipp.d corners as shoM in

I-OOP EUTIONHOLES; Make naro$ slrips di bias or shalEhl grain faDric. In $ool oais, saaigirt

gain is

Lretter as

it is le$ likell


l. Cli


being sure

6 naios .s possible to estimate the

amount il Nill narro{ in stretching. Iroft 1 to 2// $idths are of sking or natow tape secueb to one eld of the $ao.8 side of the fabdc. lape or slri4 ai least twice as long as the fabric slrip ro proyide reinforcement to the


a Diece



Fold fabric striD tcDgthwise, rith the srong stde , nnd wilh a length of slrin{ or tape inside.

FiE.27B. lare the seam open X 10 %" at end +here string is aitached. Stirch $e @rd sean, slretching rhe f.6ric. e that there $ill be



stitchs bruking .s the cord is

used. Fig. 27C,

oI the machine

Trim lhe se.m. Fig. 27D.


---:i. "4/ - --:1

. -_.\ l





Pull striDq or tare to h!'n cord i.side out. The lenglh of lape allowed for streaEthening llie @id is Nll.d inside in lutning cord. !'igCut Iocps desired lergth, and


that length$ise seams are on lhe irside line nnd almost elen vith
the lacing edge ol gametrt.

Insot loors in seams, Iig. 28A. MEre that is impossible, nnish ends {ilh a scroll or t1risl. Fig. 288.

(@ r)t
,) //


IIOLES MaliDg hDd-sbrhed buitodholes qls for praclie.'lhe}l de suitable




and gids althugt piped bulionholes usrally look as yell. For little tols' clolhjng lhey are, of.ouse, the or1! tr!.
iight for sizes
2 or 3 and

tailored coats and suits lor Mmen


\t/orked buttoirloles aie

linal detail alter the .oat is

mde as a

and pressed. Butlonhole tyist or other hear] thread, a shade or tM ilaJker ttm ..ating is needed for sorkidg and a ''siq)'' or "streding thread" for padin!. Use No. 6 betseen needle, sharp scissrs for cutting and a stiletlo, orange

Mark buiionhole, rig. 29A, and mke tso paratlel Iines of mchine stitching along this line. Ilare
stilches shorl and lines close toCut tuttonhole, Use scisers, sliletlo or a{lto punch and clip a smll round hole at the button end, !'is.
29B and C. Pad. or as it is called,

"sirand" the bulionhole wilh the gimp. If gimp is not aviilable use about four lerglhs of t$ist to make a bp.. A 1)4 1o 1% Iard leDgrih of thread $.ill be cnougll Faslen lhis gimp secutely at the i"side endof tire bultorhole. Hold gimn on top of the

g nent but Eder

the buttonlol

stilches as the, ire made. Seore it $ilh a pin at ihe inside e.d. $'ork the buttorhole use a thread Iong erough to .otuplete the button-



hole as splici.g is

length is .no(eh for a mcdium size

ditridll. A % yaJd

buliontole. Hold garmenl *ith bur to! end at the !eft, I.asten ihread inlisibl) at the Io$cr ighl hrnd orner
of the brtto.hole and vork buttonhole Ilom lo$.t nght to leli maLing elelet

line aro6d the button end. Fig. 29D.

Hold buttonhole diagonally orer lhe

buttonhole from ri8ht

of the Iefl hand. Wnrk 10 lefl, To stari, bring needle oui al the lower right
hand corner. Bri.g the lhread fron ihe cle ol the nee.lle under the rDint


through and

to the lelt. Draw the nee.ne a$ay. Fig. 30 shoss


details of the bultonhole stitch a.d the t{isl oI ihe "purl." AIter bullonhole is comlJlelely lorked ivercasl purled edges loEether \eith

for or file temlorarl stilctes. Thn lress lhe buttonhole o, a $ell padded board alternalel] drasi.g up the gimp and roundiM the button ef,d of the butto.hole with a sllletto or orange 6.
Bar the inside end o{ the bulioDhole

using the gitnD

or the


STIT CttED BUTTONTIOLES-L coars. healy f.lted mateiials, from tso to six lin.s of machine stitchins, ,laced as closeh as is Dossible to ea.h oiher,

hole 6,ish. These Iines are siitched aroud the place *'here the Duttonhole is io be cui. The bultonhole ii then dt and lhe edges lcfi


form the button-

Four tlpes of ,ockets are



hole, Flap, Stand and Palch.




Cul Dockt facing 1" {ider than desired sidth of poclreas and fi,ice .s long. For a 4" @.ket, a 5 x 10" piece of material may be used, Either hias ot shiaight grai. of goods is pemissiblcCrease pocket facing on slort Eiddle.


PIa@ sith risht side to right side of

coat and


wilh crease on lo.ket opening Pin or baste facing lo coai on

oeasedline. Fjg.32A.






Stitch Fockei Ilcing

io coat {ith

rectr.sular line of slitchin8 the des:red siz. of pockei trimning and the top line of recta.gle on the .cnier (ease, Bcgin slilching oD long sid oI r.ct4.

Slash ihrou8h facin8 and coat on

ter line betseen stilchi4s to $ithin



of rectangle ends- Makc direona!

slashes eEctlyto each.orner, Ftg. 328. Pt'll facing throu.qh slit. Prcss on seatu

cr.ased rectangle $ilh aU corners smelh bcnre edge inish is a(anged. Bound, l'ip.d or Split s..n 6nish


Seam line must lorm a shaDly

Irom this point on a.y one of three nnishes may b. $orked oui. In addi 1ion, any one ol these three arrangemenls ca. be

w,*ed out $ith a irim

on lroth !pp.r an<l lo$er e<lge of pocket slash, or just on the lo*er edge. press length$i* seams ;i. Bound

to{ard cebter. The trim $ill h.ve



Fold facins e th.t it hauvay fills slol il a 2-edgre lrim is dcsitcd, or e that it meets the top scam line f trimming is to be on the loner edge onlr.

cenier. 't'rim has 1*o thicknesses. press scams open. Trim c. Splil - tlicknesses. las ttree Tuh lo$r end of tacing wiih lonE sem edge up, do$n. or split.

Dress seatus a$ay lrom

l'or a t$o


rerted pleat is lorned on the 6der

side al caclr end of the pocket slash. Press. Be sure trid edges do noi oleF lap. Ther- should jusi escape meeling. To secue trtuming-edgei backsritch pocket-facing lo scam iine on under side, Fig. 32C. Or, machine slitch o" Iilht side on gameni section. Nerer

edged lrim. arruge lpper same $!l as loser. An in-

is secured tuD do$n lop section of pocket taci.g and stiich pockei shut in a square or routrding
,Afier trjm

line. Stitch across diaSo l poinls to Mke a more drablc pocket and o.e
that holds i1s slEpe beater. Fig. 32D. Doublc stitch pocket tor strength. Fig.

!T{I(E A
FLAP POcKEl Fis.33.



Cut flal sectioDs o{ double

tf Mierial is Iimiled or





lutled onio ihe lining $ thal th. linine does not sho{. To do this pin lining
and coating flap sections in lhe middle $ith right sides together. Pin seams togelher at lwo ends and along nnished
flap side, Dinning corners and

heala ca! one coatiDg and o.e lining for each flap. The coating must be

Then pi, in bei$en silh pirs e\.ctl) at right angies to seam. Baste




silh shofi stitches eractly

on the Dinrcd line and sliich uilh the fulled (coating) stde doM. Seam must be }e,j- turos. FiA. 33A. ftim seah and come8. Tuh, baste and press. Top-slilch, if


Pin flap in position {ith linine side up. Plae one lining section direclly eder this line wittr the $rong side to undeF T side of.oat. lle iop edge of ihe lining should enend %'/ aboy the flap sam Iine. tsasL. Stitch flap and linine to .oal, double stilichng en.ts. Fig. 33B
sho$s oai marked lor rDcket pdsition and flap sliiched to rishl side of coat, This sane stitching secures lining secti6n .n tte trndd ri,le nl ..af.

Iin., Arange wDl lacing seclion sith dght side to dlht side of the cort ald
lacing to @at and underlining, itth a line of stitching parallel to, and 3/8" or more from re flap seam. This stilching an be dore more ac(ralelt silh less Iulling of coat if it is done on [re 6derside ol i6e @at. Make lhis stitchin{ about ," shorter tha! flapslitching. Double stit.h ends. Rig.33C sho{s flap and lacinq sti{ched in Dosi4. 5.
Slash lbrough liniDg and coal.

Pin flaD seid uD and ava} from stiiched

one edge close to flap seam line. Sdtch

Bring flaD seam and fa.ing thrcugh

slash to under side of @at. Pin ends flap seam line to th. noning boatd

uons side up. Slip a thin b.tsenflap and coat. ftess the facirg seam open as shown in Fig.33D. A split seam makes a flatter
coat front









senu e&.. The edge firish as shown in Fig. 34D should al'nost nll the opetring under the flar. Double machine stitch the two ends of
this nnish on the coal seclion and along crack of th trlming seam. If naaerial is too thick to slitch the ends easilv. slilch trim in pla@ in oach of the length ise sem orly. Leale 5 or 6" oi macline stitch thread at each e.d io use in seNing do*n .orners b, hand. Doubl stitch facing 10 lining sectton. Stit.h se.oDd lining section to ihe flap seatu with one or t$t, lines cf stilching as shoM in Fi!, 33E. Doubl. slilch pochet lininEs together, Flap pockels ma, hale linings lop slilched 10 coais as in Fig. 33E.

efiecl. Press fa.ing do$n


i. E. 9.


ln this ase lining described in parasraph 2 is $metimes omitted.

STAND POCKET Fig. 34. \,Iake th. "slard" double of coating fabric

q:r ,

1. Ilark pockcl position. 2. Prepde stand as described


lor flap .nd

baste in posillon sith righl side to right

Arange linine oler stand *ith rght side to rilht side of coat and the ctosseise center on the pockt Iine- Baste in

posiiion. Fig. 34A sho*s the pockei position marked, and the sta.d a,d
Stitch linhg .nd stand to coal $ith tvo

parallel ,i.es oI siilching, placed 3/r8" or more aparl. Make Io{e1 stit.hing through stand, lining and coaling and
eaactly as long as the stand. Make

stitchin! lhrouth liniog a"d coaring only aml about %" shorter ihan the loser

slilchi.g. Fig.
in l'i8, 34C,


Slash throuEh lif,ing and


as shos"

Bi.! lining lhrough slash to u.derside of coat and lunr stand in position,
Fig. 34D.

Tum diagoral .ut e.ds of the opennrs so that seams are hidden. Sntch t{o ef,ds aDd top s e of seiim io make


Blind or macNne stitch siand ends in position. A nuo1{ tape or selvage strips Ny be placed on underside of coat on the Une of sland slitchtng for

Double siitch pocket lining to close ihe

L//rl i

I;l-.--. -l


PATCII POCIIET Fig. 35, 1 Piae Dockei lining and coating seclions eilh tight sides logeiher, Stitch top sem, aith lining held uppermost so @ating 1trI be fuued. L@ve middle tlird of seam unstilched. Press both ed{es dovn on firing. 2. Fold on top hem line, sith lining and @ating righl sides togelher.liPin lining and @ting together in mida[e, Then pin, fulling the coating se.tion to the lining as described for 0ap. Baste3. Stitch $ilh fulled side .lo$n. 4. Trim, twn, iraste atr.l Dr.ss. If top-slitching is sed, appl) belorc blind

stitching to oat. I1 desirable, reitJoice the lnderside of garmenl along this line oi stilclring. Use Noven lape, a strip of cotion *lvage or a Fie.e ol inleriacing cui yr" laryet lJtun ihe linished p.lch pocket. Bete or stttch this in pla.e and bliDd hem pocket through thts.



{abric butlo.holes, the @a! is ready to assemble lor 6tling. Pin ati sems at riSht angles io and eectly on stiiching line. In illis $aJ, seams can be marked and basted more easil]'. Straight seams in $@ly materials can often tE machine stiiched over carefully pli@d pinning, Straight s.ams, e\acu, the sahe widtn in lining ahd coating seclionsj are ad important faclor in @king a well tailored garmenl. Use your yardsiick or iailor's square, .nd mark ad accurate linc ,or basiins and stitchinr. Baste bv

PIN, BASTE AND FIT AJler siat-stitching, applrinE intertacings, ed completin! darts, Dockets, and

The order of pinning, hasting. and stitching ts r rir pdncess stlle, the io[owing is $otkable:

Qries. For a simple



sleeves and,

le.gth*ise *ams in bod, - r. Al 2. shoulder seams.

Lining or combined

Darts and center back sla.k

lining-inl.rlining l. lold. 2, Atta.h

linins. It the back has a neckfacing, appl] this to back linin{ seclions, 3. AII length$i* seams. 4. Shoulder seaG.


coating faci4{ to

Fjt outer coat and lining together lo gauge size d general etrecl. i\ilEre shoulder Dads ate ued, pin them in posilion carefully before fitti.g. Tr) @at on rigti side out. Pin codi in flotrt aloDg center front tailor tacks. Fit seam lines so the oos{i* 8rai" oI goods runs straight aoo$ the shoulder blad.s, b6t line- and arounc t6e arm on a line uith ,nder.m tule. The lelgthvise grain of g@ds should be pe4endicul.r to the @r from .itter ihe sho{lder seam or bust !ine.


This laries sliehtly siih the tytes of coats and whelher or not to!-stitching or coai tails are a


'$here ih.re is no top-siiiching or coal lails, all coating seass .rceDt the armhole and the facinglining ate pressed oDen. Thcy are

See p.ges 4C-43.



the follo(ing order:

\IOR}!\L ,qR}ISEYE 1, Dats, lndcrarm, and ant length*isc *ams. Press seam orien, 6rsi on thc inside
aId then ouiside. Fi!.36. 2. Shoulder piess opcn, 3. Sleele lengthwise fams
using press op.n



slee* dshion. Iig.37.

pin sleeles to amhole lblding

to$ard}lor, Pin al right uglcs to seam, Pin matchins nolches lirst. then sleere at underarm seatu. Pin 1oD oI sleele to shoulder seam line. Then diride
an.i sui-diride any {ullness 10 bc eased in and dra* up stay-stitching. Basle {ith siort stitches clactly on piDned seam Iine.



Baste tape 10 .ni-seye seam line

on coat side of

*atu, !'iE, 39. Slitch sleele

side down. Press armeye seam inside RAGLAN SHOI]'I-DIIR 1. Darts, u.derarh and olher lerEthu'ise 2. Sleel ieD:'thvise sans. Attach sleercs to coat, firsl pi.ning rutching armhole 3. Pin full.ess in and baste in losition with shot, elen stitches. (Shodd.f ranatio,s,
I,ig. 40.)




.1. Tape amhole lreaore or a{tet bastine sleeve

5. Stitch $ith fulled side doM. 6, Press aimseye seam a ay fiom th. sleeve or open dependlng on cuffell stlles and
weighl of



1. Dans. undcrarm and other lensth*i* 2. Stay-stitch armseye oI coat and sleere on
the seam linc. Fig. 414.

3. Pin matching notches. Basie and stitch sleer along the annhole curte tust. Press ihis pdl of the anlole seam open- CliDif
,e.essary. Fig. 41B. Cljp seam al the yoke angle. Pitr, basle, af,d pIess shouldet extension in position a.d then stitch this seam. Fig. 4lC, The ,oke li.e Part of

this sed My be presscd up under the shoulder saddle, op.n Dr down under the coat. If pleats or shirrings ate 6*d in the body ol coat, both sem edler should be pressd up u..ler the sddle seclion


II an interlining is u*d, tust Ia, front, back and slee!.s sectio.s of irterlining
on the .orreqronding lining

seclioG. If inierlining has a napped side, place ihis

Linings fil morc smooihl,, $fil) and Nith less strain if dlrts arc noi stilched. Leare them basted untii )ou are ready 10 Dut the finishnrg touches on 'mu' c@t and ther tack whereler there is any shain silh three or four qoss stitches or

Stitch seaG as thoulh the lining-interlining }ere a i$o-plv rn erial. CIiD and press all lining *ams open, excepi for facinglining seanrs. Both edges of this de Eessed under thc linins in medium {eighl and open in hea}y tetghl uihether or not ad interlining is used, use the follosirg order of as*mbling:: 1. Attach front and any back @ating facinls 1o lining-i,ierlinirg *ction For medi(m seight @terial, full the lidng *ction onlo tlle facirg slighilv. Baste cdefully. Pin and baste any other length{ise seans, then shoulder *ams-

\IAI{E 1
2. 'Step" al bulky seams.
an interlining is used the


Facjng and lining *ams de alears stepped. ll selm are timmed back also. 3. Sem sleere lininss, fuling elbow. Press. Aitach sleele linings to coat

IininS, piming and basting armseye as des(ibed for outer @at section Slilcb, dip seams and press.

@at material is loose seale or lragile and ltirely to tetu out where buttoE e se$ed, and if thete are no intcrfacing or button stays lor coat, saleguard againsl damase or unnecessary sear by basting tape or a narroe le.lth of muslin uDder


LINING THE COAT Press ltnine and coaiing sectioni thoroughly betore basting them together.

( L


These important aids

to ,itli.g are se$.d nr phce belore adjusting

linin!, Turn coal right side out a.d stroke ernsere seams in position. Placc shouldef pads

in position ertendi.g , to l" beyond the erd of the shouldo seam. Pin in Dlace from the right side ai both e,ds ol the shoulder seam.
Smooth arnsele

otr Dad and pin at iront and ba.k eirneE so llat they eitend about %" insi de the sleere at ftese points, Check for 61 a.d se{ in place securely,
,r\Jrange lining and coalirg $itb .ielrt sides togeihcr. !'or a coat *ith rerrs or a coilertable collar ihe facing seciion must be fulled to ihe coat around the lapel and doM thc coat front 10 ih toD butlonhole- The amount of fullins depends on the s.ight and $eave of the coat saterial and on the roll ot the lapel. SIIAPE L PEL. Esiimate the amouni ol fulling needed lo give a rounded efrect- Pin facirg to coating at lapel corners, at the neckline .enter noni point, and !t a Doint eren wilh the tip buttonlole or end of lapel roll. Dilidc and sub-dilidc until fullness is phned in cnoug| to baste smoolhlr. Baste. Fig. 43

l\,'= rl Ii,


1l toop buiionholes are uscd,



Tape facing seam from the @nter ftoni at neckline aroud larrel and dom lhe fronl to the finished hem line. Baste tabe along seam on the coat side and as near one edge as possiblt. Ha* wide side of iape avay Irod *atu line-


and neckiire sc.ms are Dcrer rhe sam.

size. A 1{o or three inch urialion is usual. Conlertilrle collar shlcs ltale coai necklines larger ilran colla.s. The collar is fitted to $e

*earer. The @at neckline is fulted 10 ihe ollar. Nokhcd lilel styl6 hale collars lager than coat neciilines, Collds are
Appb nte{acirg 10 collar undc acing.



crescent shaped Iine in bacl has many rcps ol sho.t padding siilches to srifen and

aid in shaling ihe .ollat. The ouler

has less of this

detail. Fig.


Full ihe niD collar 1o the underfacine, ,inning at corr.rs to block out fullncss as -"hoen in Fig, 44ts, Pi. diliding aud subdividing fullress and sholt siitches exactly
on seah li.e. Fig.

.lo$h. Trim

,14C, Stiich siih lulled

and step seam. Fig. 44D.

il. Colld must De thoro(ghly dried ort before it is se.med to the coat or it {,ill gei od I.s.rt
cotlar betseen lining

Tun collar rjght side oul. Baste qrefdt}' and Fess right side up on cushion, shaDing



Pin in position, baste a.d stitch as follows: 1. a At cenler back, Iin und.rlaci.g to oating and upper collar to lining. b- Pin center fronts rith top 6llar to tacing and under collar to @ar.

c d


sh( der seatu-r ol Iining and eali.! to ffitching polrts of collar. Diride ed sub-dilidc fldlness un-

.il it is adjlsted smoollri. 2. Bastc and siiich collar in position from the center fronts to centcr Lracts beine sure seim is generous d eren $ith facin!. A ).r, tirl scam gaD in the seam at the noicl concr is an adrantage nr tnrl shaDing. Leale
aboot a n" Iengih of tuacune stitching thread at center fro.t io use in slip stitclirg this gap afier 6at is turned and prcssed. 3. Press tr.crdine seams open, The sleele cushion iLreded bel$een tM ne.idine s.ds *ill be uselul. The lront lacing

seam line


stitche.t ned and then

4, Turn @at and baste lacing seh line being crefin tl} hold an, laFI roted oler ard the rcst of tie seam under.



then lrom shifting, Strong thrcad, a
Coatirg and lining sections are ses.d iogethcr 6n the inside ,ine alo.e cerlain seatus lo keep moderately long siitchcs sith ocasional back stit.hes are used. 'I'hcy should be about 1,/6" fron the sliiched seam, Alta.h

scaru in tlc follo*ins ordq:

1. Collar from ceDter frort to center back_ 2. Shoulder fron neckline I{i dmse}.e. 3- Annsey. ftom shoulder seah do$n in bacli and doyn in iront as far as Dossible. It is sotuetimes easi.r to siab slilch this scam in pl.ce from ihe right sid. of the 4. Underarn seahs lrom Mseye dosn on

u.deramr scah abou! tsorhirds


Irig. 45.


Nilhout cufis nrterlace boltom of sleeve $ith a bias piecc oI soft. iirm coho. cloth. hetu
eren and stitcn it ," fron sleele crd. Fig. 46. Turn hem, stroke intefacing id position, and lem sith loose stilches Dlr.ed bet$ccn hen and sl.ere. Hold hem doubl.d as lor a naper,v

*idth and Iong enoush lo go aroud sleere. tuiang on inside of sieeve $ilh seah edges


coat {yo.8 side out Md shole sleeves so ahat Iinings fit coat sleers coating and linins seams malchins .xactly. Baste lining to sleele lerg{! *ise on *am lines ed aroed the sleele about 6,, above hcn. Fig. 46. lf lining sems tco tight:t $risi line, rin the seams up as l as necessary io reliere stEin. Coai sleercs will t$ist ed &av il this step is sligtrted. Blind he'n lining in rusition. Fig. 49, \\'ith cufi hem slccle as des.ribed abole, omitling interlacingllake a doubL lool or lined cufi using @lld teclDiqucs. Fig. 504. Trnn cutr liniDg bacli abcut ,// ai open c.tge. Fig. 508, l,rcss otr *iih the lining side q,. Slip-sliich thc cuiJ ends togelher. Fig. 50C. Tun opn edg of ihe ouislde of crtr !p oler lininA nnd @tch stitch.


Slip-stitch cufi to hemed sleek. Fi!. 50D. Use I'rench iachs to secue ulip.r e&c to @at at cur.s a.d *ams. Place lac! ,'/ doM lrom the toD edge


llart nnished heh Itue on @atin! and linins. Pin and baste i,r DosrtjoD on fold ed{es. Trim heh if neessary to eren il. Hems may be finislcd nr tvo *ars dependin! on the slyle ol the g.rment, d.pilr ol hem, and seighl of irtelinnrg. Dress @ats, slbrties, and sui! jackets lool belier si!1 a closed hem. Coalr wilh deep lems or heavl inierlinings and qlh bac* pleats ot coat tails usuall! m8i be fi.ished with an opc! hen.


EXTENS]ON LE.{FLET NO. 162 OPEN tIDilI lirm weale material trry be finished sith slar-slilching ,laced about ll'l Irom cut edge. Fig.


ihat thr.ad c.n be drasn up io help e6e in fullness. Press hem line Niih Gdboard beilteen this cdse and garmerl before 'n hemming. Ease in tullness. Blind hen as des.ribed for slcele
an.l as

Use a ionA enoulh machine slltch


in Fie. ;1B.

RareUy Draterials, or $here a more finished.trect is d.sired, My be linisted *i{h silk seam taFe or a lcnerh of liDing
rrYess $iih cardboard prclectiob. Be sure oating does nol come


mor ilran tso-ihirds up on tape or a ''thick" hem nill result. Hem $iih a Yrnning stil.h. r'ig. 51C. Lininsr sholnd be

than coais. Uftere there is an inierlining, hem ihe lining Lrad( on flns. II no interlining is used, hem tne [ning bacli on itscll vilh a single or double


or more shoner

tum. Children s coals and rcqh {,orl stlles my hare this hcm macbine

Calch lining io coat al hem line, under-

arm and other seams usin! long

!'i8. 5lD,


cut edge of h.m. Drav @cline slilchiDe uD iI there is af,y slack. Press pith







behieen hem and


Blind hem as dcscribed for sleeve, usiDg

Io.e slilches and ocosional back stit.hes.
Baste lining to coat about


above hem

ed!e. !'ig. 51E.

Turn hrirE hem and Din or baste in positio.. Ulind slitch in Dlace about % to
% inch abore fold e&e. This nrovides slack neessarv to keeD coat lrotu dras-

!'ront fa.ing hems ma, be t(ned on a sliglrtly diagonal h1e or turned eren *ith the coat hed. lvhere this line is eren,

the facing seam e\tendrng below the lining hem is lelt ralv and otch stitched
as s1b$n in Fig. s1D.

r nrnr

Baste or pin facing in placc ab0ul buttonhole. Fiq. 52A. If coat has a lapel, hold ii rolled orer as you Mrk $ that

ore inch lrom cach

buttonlole finish does not pull it

Mark line for cufiing, and Din facfu at cach e'd of buttonhole inish from the righl

sid.. \

Slash facing ditecU, mder

sllghtly .urved line may be hedmed as in Fie. l-,28 if material ra\ls. is thick, or iherc is no obje.t



in helmin! the



ery in eme gme.ts

A rectangula hem line is ne@svhere exposed and


# *

bultonlDle 6nish is must l@k the eme on bolh sides.

Nlck @mers and turn ras


EXTENSION LEAILE'I \"O. @der and hem Ulork from


needle. !i9.52C.

vith a No, 9 or 10 benen

lowest buttoifDle


thts pracli@, top buttonholes haye a greater

clEnce {or perfeclion.



Collar notch is slip-stitched. l-inal pressjng ,irst smootlr out any rdnkles in the liring tud underside of collar and re1rs. CoDplele pressing the facing seam press Dodret flap, using a piee of qrdboard to plG

tect the


Press hems. and buttonhore

lar, lapel, and necldine seams taut aa tiree corners of lrnolch" to prevent collar or lanel seam lines from drring. Fig. 53.
Hang coat @efully on a well-shaped hanger Buatons should be *$ed oD @ats rith a slunk long enorgh e ihat the faslening doesn,t pinch the buttor role line and ripple the oar fronl. Pin .enier fron! lailor tacks e that thcy mtch, and pi!-@rk bstton lositioG through bullonhole slots. Use fo( stnlds of tbead and se{ bultons in plac allo$inE for shank by *{ing over a milch, Din, or a lalge dming

then Eess lop collar rerers pinning the col-

548. Trtst thead aroud this shank. Finish nith one or t$o bultonhole
needle Fig.

stitches. A small flat button stay on the underside

$iI sre rar.

Fig. 54B.

IOP.STITCHING This detail can add 1o finish ad a vell-tailored efie.t. Ilo*erer, iI Jou machine amd be adjusted to a perfect slitch, ii you annoi ind enclt) thc rigli thread color and te*ure, ard if ,our tecbnique and eye for lhe subtle points
of desiln are shaky, omit iop-stitchinl. IIo$ liltle or hov much there must b. a balane to lare this detail efieclive. A locket
as the single top-siitched detail

desigr. Some


stilched. Tlle minim{n nr a standard top @at is lsralb pockel collar and laDel and facing line. Ui1*re there is a ceuter tra.k sead and the slceve has a sem Ircm the should.r line .loM, this is lsually to}.stitched.

har. every seam top-

$ill seaken the


nec,rline at the toD halfi ihe underarm half of the seam is clirl,ed and pres*d open. Raglan. saddle, or other noreli) silles hare {his sc..1 eilher pr.ssed open and top-stitched on ea!_h side of lhe sem or bolh seams pressed in one dircclion. \trhere both seam edees are pressed in lhe sam! direciion, lun sllodder. u.derarm and lengtlsise sieeLe seams io*ard ihe {rort; @nter ba.k to$ard the left, Collarlapel stitchine is noi @nlinuous. This Iine is broken at the tullar s.am- Figs. 55, 56, CoUars can be top-stiiched aiong lhe oulcr edEe belore applting ihem lo the.eckline sean. Top-sliaclring is complcied on collar, around lapel a.d do$r lront facjng afler cotlar is in

Noffil am*ye *ams are usualll lop\'hqc lhis is dooe ihe arm*Ie is Fessed tolard
stilched around the top half of lhe seam.


EICHT GL:IDES l. E{rd.e lop'slilclring


g@d r.ad}-to-

2. Clip photoraphic illustrations of

coats and and suits shosing all a}!es and placi.gs oa this nnish. Clear cui pictees of collar, lapel lnd oa! lail stitchings sill salc a ld of irial and error performance.

3. Use ihr.ad tl[t matches texlure an.l is slighil,r d&ker than )our coating. Contrasling tenuc a"d color is ale used
ihough it will releal anrr erratic stit.hiDq,

1. ltachine stitch must be nruch longer than for ordiGry slams. Spool tensioDs mat need adjusting. Try oui top-slilching on wett pressd seams until the Desi color and textrue, stitch length, and placine lor the style garnent have been Mrked out. 5. Top-siitching should be done thrcuqh ihe same number of thicknesses ilnougbout. Stitch Iength and lension sill rary il apptied to tvo ard three lalcrs of medium or healy weighl coali.gs. If both seam edges ar. to be lurned i. the sme direction, trim ihe inside seam edE. and baste so thal only leo thiclnes*s enter the top-stitclioS, If seams de pressed

6. Do as mlch top-stitching

open, top-slilcb them on Doth sides. as you 6n at one time particrJarly

if your macline


Pr.ss hefore ttru stitch lo insure a sirajghl elen lin, Siikh inside seams Press *ams as desired. Slep inside lalers if both seaD edges are F.essed in the same direction- Baste tightly, an.l press again. Then mark lines to lE iop-stitched, u.less }ou have stue olher equally

ii n c.suy.

E- Slrips ot interiacing my .eed to De placed bet$een *am and lament to !n'. bodl and to keep the top-siitched Iine lrom lookirg stretched,




/r: )l z' / -\ l/

.= li-

ORI)ER OF STITCHIN(] IS: 1. Pockets (flaps, sldds, latches),

2. ll.

Outer edge of collar. Lengih$ise seams in bod! and sleev.

5. Before top-stitching 6n be applid to facing or a cdt tail, ihe hen must be turned. It is easier to stitch the lo$er *ction of a @at tail lreiore stitchjng along the upper center back sean.

7. Compleie colld,lapel and froni facidg.

Saddle slitching, "picking," orrcast ad ooss stiiched finishes .an be usd to add color and terlure interesl As thel &e applied by hand more lariation in

tire.d lextre

and size and the slitch length is possible. These de.oralile touch.s are more olmorly Ged as an edge treatne than as seam deotatioG. Obserre curent trentls and adapt them to yor coat design, Buttonholc ivist, embroiderl threads, ym, bhids, tapes, ven silk shoe taces are used. A machine stitched line usinj a lery long stitch and l@se iension helps in gaugidg oifom leneth and spacing of such slitches and itsuring a


EEmine this detail in a good r&dy-@de oat. See Fig. 57. Coat tails &e onen or closed but jn eiher a* @ting hems musl be tened befor
For better aqr the upper dd under sides shouid be rebforced {itt lape, or x strip of

iderfaciry. Where top-stitching is not to be r*d, shi, of interfacing ontinues to the necldine sd, anchoiing it at this Iine {ill
help hold

il in

shape. See Figures 57A and B,

udo about 1'l aiong ihe lergthwise line. A length of tale is pla@d between lvo srong sides of coating md top-stitched tr position about }l" from the lengthwise fold. Fi!. 584it
Top c@t tail *ction matr be rei.for.ed with a taDe ingaed along tlrc c.nler back fold ad stit.hed on the under side ahonr 1/8" nom fte fold edge. Fig. 588. Coniinue tbis tape diaEoEIIy qosswise betnen tail ud @t at top of tail to reiDforce the diagoDil q6*i* stitching. Reirrlo(eme.ts

Urdei coat tail seclio. is finished aurning

de stitched in ,lae




alto lhe


open @at tail the Iining is hemed coating and lining inside bastirls

do@d @at tail ara about 3// oqtside oI it as rour pattern indictes- If it is cut with a 2', center back siack. be sure
liDe, hem

@bpleled. Pin or baste lining to


the lini.s has been cut wiih an angte




ihis fold iuns 1o the lelt. Slash thc lining on lenglh$'isc Eder cree line of the slack lold. !'iE. 59. Male this slash as lotrg as openiDs. I'ln, basie, md hem lining 10 lop oat tail frst about 2" from cenier back fold. Clip ed trim a.y ex@ss lining and hem to uDder section. Fig. 60 ln clo*d @t tails, bem oat ed reirforce 4 for an oper tail. Seam tM secHors of lail togelher, For this style, coals mst be helnmed sith an open
heE finish aooss $e back section at leasl, or the entire hem line The b.ck lining is hemmed as fot a .onr vitloul lail.


be open.




These deo.rtive la.ks are used to slrergthen ihe etrds of Docket on.nirss a.d lops of kick D]ais and also as a hor.ler. Embtoider] rhrGd ed buttonhole t$'ist ae used. A healy single thJead f,a1ies the most alnadive ealect. Ouiline a iriangle rith tailors chalk or bas! iig. This 6al be equilateral if the 6nish is to be L<J on pockets, pleats or ddts, and the qoris f@t trre nust b the same len8th on

t-.+ i[.:l
I r---:-:


| |

Uie. :ides. Anovheads my har a narov b.,* and t$'o long sides. This makes a lin.
Ceoarion that eorks dn }ery quiclly.
,\RRO\U IE.\DS Fig, 61

F] ;-l



l. !.

ihread wilh roning stilches from cent.r of atro$tead t0 corner A. Talie a small stitch lrom right to left at B,

parallel to side AC. 3. IL.1 needle al C bringing it to righl side

teping siitch


&d ba*

Drocedure, alternating point stitchs, until a&ni.head is conr !l.re. Take each stitch at B a liule helos ad a lii|e laqer than ine last one. Nlake earh succeeding siitch at AC inside {re Felious one and a little smaller. dect {hen fiEished.
FOOT Fig. 62


nl [l
[_-:J l.-:il 'l

]-ae coq,leted arroshead has a cherron


1. To fasten lhread, take *tral ruming :titches irom enter of t.i!ng]e. l. TaIe very stuall slilch at B from right to l.ft. (4. B and C in same lrosiiior as in


iil.l Tlm triangle io l.It u.til the C is at the lop. Take a smal stitch frotu right to leit
Continue as shown in Fig.62-3. Be careful

io takc each slitch sith tlE nedle lteld

eectly Frallel to lhe opposiie side. 5. ,\ crosis fooi hay be compleied {hen the thread ilas coveied lle fahi.. In llris a1* lwo snall slitches are taten ai the i.ieBection of tir.eads in the center to
make ihe



l ott.d.

This tr_pe

is atlractile in a large cros's I@t made of ha1y rope silk. .\ c.ow's foot ma) also be $'orlred until rit.h.s m..i iD rh middle of eac! side.

a trianslc odiires the ccntel. In lnis ase be iure thal the samc number oI stiiches odline each side of tte triaDgle,


Alplique fur n'immirgs to youi other*ise comDleted oat. Remodeling and upkeep pbblems *ill be simpler. Constroction is easier and pressing is not so iNotved if your @at is inished ilrough thc final pressnrg as an all wol garme.t and aD, lrim brind
G@d fu should be deansed tud rrini.ss made up b an experl lurier. Hosever,
hemmed in place as the last step.

iI jou fur is ine$eEsile an<t so {orn

out,rou own ideas as follors: I. Clean* ihe fur $it6 $atu corn nrat, fulle.'s earth, or $el savdust. Par any onc of these into the fur si.le of ihe pclt and let it Etand ior a fey houis, Shake it out. Repeat the Drocess if fur

it d{Es ndt justiry this expn*, }ou can york



stiil scems dirty. 2. l\rark the skin side of the pelt sirh a(ows indicating the say the fui runs. 3. \trork out a heary wapping paper or mElin paitern ihe shapc and size of the fur ection needed. 4. Thmb lack lur to dtLing board fiih skin sidc up. Pla@ pattern o, skin, obserlih8 dnections oI affows to be sure fe tus as it should. Outline

-lK ll). /,,/,/\ fl i./'


pattern $iih pencil and

FiE. 63.



5. Cut

blade. Take are io

skin. Fig-

Iur, using shtup lnife or r@r



only through

6. OleFhand pieces dosely, hol.ltng fur

lorr tough. U the 1tuead is {ith bees*ax, it ma} be easier to sev. Reinlorce sl.in side oI lery
skin is

sides togethr and $htDing a. mro{ a *atu as rvill hold. No. ?0 ttuead and a No. 7 between needl tue us@lly right for tbis. A eioleas n@dlc is usetut if

fw silh thin mGlin.

7. Tape all outer edges with a solen coF ton rape about 1l', \ide. rfotd tape fanl)' light and orerha.d to skin onll. 8. Place a larer oI cottoD wadding cut lhe e*act size of the 1u pie.e trext 10 skin side of fur. Plll edge taDe orer o,

$lddirg and

baste in plae.









coat. Fiq. 66.

.Aro*head tacks

Bsting ...... Buftons, make lcd



32 22

, $orl:ed ne{

Fa.ed CetiEgs, old and C6t tnils

22 25 26 27 39 9 4:\-44 36


CoGtructien. order of Cro$'s fmt Tacks




D6ign of buttons, buttolholes,

Fabrics, chnce Fabric probl(G Finishing Touches

ed pockets


5 14 40 32



38 38

Closed. tnterfacings lnterlinings Inp.l, shapinlr Laundcringi sool, Eru Linings ....
I'adding Stjtch Palterns

2t) 7, 34

6, 34,35

20 12 32


27 29 30

Bltlonhole !'lap Stand P.tch


PEss Block

Press Pressing: uool, raron, silk, rehet,


Rei.for.em.nts .. Eutton Shoulder pads ShouldeB, raqlan, saddl. Slrinkage, ne* matcrials Taihnng points .... Taitor's cushiot Tailor'slacks.. T@ls for Tailoring







16 3-4