S/S 14 MEGATRENDS DIGEST

By Isham Sardouk | SVP Trend Forecasting People may argue over the definition of great design, yet we are continually intrigued by the factors that make certain aesthetics universally appreciated. Reading literature on the golden ratio and the Egyptian mysteries, I have come to realize that a great work of art appeals when it gets the same emotional response from diverse groups of people, like the way the Egyptian Pyramids astound every time. And why is that? Ironically because great design often applies the rules of mathematics which encompass in their blueprint the Golden Ratio, represented by the Greek letter Phi . The Golden Ratio is a naturally occurring constant, found in tree branches, pineapple skins, pinecones and snail shells. The founder of Greek mathematics, Pythagoras, who lived between 582 and 507 BC, believed that the essence of all things was numerical and that all relationships could be expressed through numbers. This view led to the discovery of the numerical relationship in musical tones. So is it true that everything is data? In our megatrend RATIONAL, we explore the influence of mathematics on design, and the fascination that mathematicians, as well as designers, have to keep searching for the ultimate symmetry found in everyday objects and in nature, in order to create new universal aesthetics.

The golden ratio, defined by Fibonacci, has been used to construct buildings, compose paintings and sculpt monuments to reach the zenith of visual beauty, using natures own mathematical proportions as a guideline.

Seung Yong Songs Dami series reflects a digital grid style, consisting of basket forms that can be employed for a variety of storage uses.

Jolyon Brewis developed the Eden Project with Grimshaw Architects, with a roof structure that is based on the spiral phyllotaxis found in plant forms. Mathematical equations based on the Golden Ratio influenced the design.

Klra pkov creates jewelry based on 3D geometric shapes. Interlocking lines, repeated textures and bold forms develop accessories that examine spatial relationships.

Jean Nouvel designed the The Institut du Monde Arab in Paris. The intricate exterior surface signifies the modernization of Arab geometry using the moucharabieh technique.

Alvaro Cataln de Ocn takes the rhombus as a basic shape that can be repeated to form infinite possibilities. For the Rayuela stool, he took a single piece, which is then repeated using three colors to create an optical effect.

Robert J. Lang has pioneered the field of technical origami with his theoretically plotted crease patterns. His Origami Treemaker software designs an origami base from which increasingly complex structures can be created.

Macoto Murayama creates digital flowers to merge technical and botanical art forms. The Inorganic Flora exhibition features flower images with textual and mathematical indications.

Simon Thomas creates sculptures based on mathematical theories. His work on the structure of soap bubbles expresses complex equations through beautiful three-dimensional structures.

Nikki Graziano overlays graphs, and their corresponding equations, onto her photographic studies. Her Found Functions series shows natural compositions with overlaid graphs that relate organic matter to quantified equations.

Hiroshi Sugimoto, photographed plaster forms, to explain mathematical theories in 3D. His series of photographs, Mathematical Forms, depicts the small objects as being monumental.

Ai Weiweis spherical structure called, Untitled (Divine Proportion) reflects a mathematical focus, with wooden geometric shapes constructed using nail-free joinery.

Mark Goldenberg, Shenkar College of Engineering and Design graduate, created a collection using crisscrossed materials, reminiscent of tangible mathematical equations.

La Peckres intricate designs take cue from Adolf Loos architecture. Long, monolithic silhouettes become delicate with the inclusion of symmetrical motifs and laser-cut lace.

Peiran Gong is a womenswear graduate from the RCA, London. Her graduate collection consisted of architectural constructions and the body delineated with spray-paint techniques.

Hwan Heos Simulation collection plays with layers of material in a strict angular style. Simple shapes juxtapose to create sophisticated garments, reminiscent of architecture.

Designer Lucas Sponchiado showed at Hyres festival this year. His womenswear looks were based on architecture, which was softened through the use of fine materials. Cutouts and appliqus heightened varying textures.

Xander Zhous S/S 13 menswear collection drew inspiration from delicate lilies. Imposing geometric frameworks make natural motifs seem linear and graphic.

Mineral elements set the pace for this unusual palette where soft green and sycamore mingle with golden brown and glazed ginger. Baby pinks feminize neutral greys and beiges while high contrasts of black and white clarify.

Golden Ratio
The Divine Proportion inspires new design products, infused with mathematical equations to explore this trend click here

Studied Matters
Planned and precise methods of design take precedence over haphazard models to explore this trend click here

Optical Origami
New forms of construction in fashion and design take cue from origami traditions to explore this trend click here

Mathematical Precision
Linear considerations delineate both fashion and design products with a graphic focus to explore this trend click here

GOLDEN RATIO
The Golden Ratio holds the secret to the reason why we find certain objects and elements of nature aesthetically pleasing. Found in shells, leaves and fruit, the ratio can be applied to architecture and art as a guideline for optimum proportions. Petal pink and milky white team with dark grey, slate and black for a delicate mathematical look.

The Science Of Nature

Applying the Golden Ratio to design products is a way to gauge proportions and resolve quandaries. Simon Thomas sculptures aim to work in partnership with mathematics to explore theories and represent equations in 3D form. Likewise Jolyon Brewis roof structure reflects the perfection found in nature, through mapped curving forms.

Perfection
Motifs and graphics that visually describe mathematical equations inspire prints this season. Spherical objects in particular act as dimensional motifs, with reference to Ai Weiweis Untitled (Divine Proportion) sculpture. Graphs, pods, linear structures and bubbles layer and intersect to create singular graphics or bold repeats.

Sublime Symmetry
Textures equally reveal a level of recurring symmetry found widely in the natural world. Pinecones, shells and animal skins have surfaces that naturally repeat, offering aesthetically pleasing 2D effects. These formations can be extracted and examined using mathematical formulae. Repeated textures can be used to infuse fashion and design products with a subtle natural effect.

Formulaic Precision
Applying mathematical formulas to fashion, art and design is a new way to incorporate science into visual arts. Both La Peckre and Matthew Miller have employed laser cutting to create precision patterns. Regular, digital patterns echo the established scientific properties of space and time.

OPTICAL ORIGAMI
The ancient technique of paper folding returns a crafted yet precise approach to fashion. Hi-tech origami emphasizes angles and geometry, with a new take on optical patterns and dimensional structures. Softened colors lend a gentle graphic effect using tones of leaf green, dark grey, beige, almond and milky white.

Accordion Pleats
Technology and precision come into play to create detail-heavy garments without using cutting techniques. Geometric shapes and textures are created using pleats and folds in a planned and accurate manner. Diaphanous fabrics emphasize delicacy while mathematical patterns create a futuristic effect.

Folds No Cuts
A pioneer in pleating and folding techniques, Issey Miyake has been instrumental in applying this craft to fashion design. His lighting collection called IN-EI features folded fabric created from recycled plastic bottles. Likewise, Christophe Guberan has developed an inkjet printer that prints geometric patterns onto paper. The special ink causes the paper to fold automatically along wet lines, creating mathematical configurations.

Triangularity
Fashion has recently taken on a more structured approach, applying basic geometric forms to create new silhouettes. Givenchy and Valentino both showed triangular shapes for 2013, emphasizing dimensional sleeves and crisp white materials. Similarly, Hwan Heos Simulation collection showed sophisticated garments, reminiscent of architecture.

STUDIED MATTERS
Design abandons haphazard and spontaneous creation in favor of a planned and precise approach. Geometric designs rely on the theories of the Golden Ratio, incorporating established equations into the proportions. Earthy deposits inspire colors and textures. A palette of soft green, slate, grey, gunmetal and golden brown reflects precious metals and minerals.

Moucharabieh
Traditional latticework prevalent in Islamic culture is being harnessed for decorative purposes. Patterns become overlaid to develop micro scales, creating dense effects. The Institut du Monde Arab was designed by Jean Nouvel and signifies the modernization of Arab geometry using the moucharabieh technique.

Preppy Polygons
Fascinating geometric forms are apt to inspire prints and design objects this season. Argyles and diamond shapes are renewed for knitwear and prints, becoming optical in digital hues. The rhombus shows its perfect versatility in repeated chair designs by Alvaro Cataln de Ocn.

Beautiful Mercury
Metallics continue their appeal for S/S 14 with specific emphasis on mercury. Surfaces reveal a liquid look with coatings that seem to have come from inner earth. Marcasite and pewter also offer a slightly darkened color effect. Crystal formations evoke the earthy appeal.

Continuous Swirling
Infinity is a concept that can lend itself to architecture and product design. Repetitive motifs that multiply create a mathematical look. This evolving geometric style can be applied to accessories such as the bold 3D forms created by Klra pkov. Dimensions meet equations to examine spaces in a new rational way.

MATHEMATICAL PRECISION
Mathematical formulas give rise to mesh-like structures, which can be used in fashion or design. Light filtering through meshes, gives the impression of layers and can yield optical effects. For this theme, cosmetic tones soften the approach with shades of black, slate, blush, sherbet pink and silver.

Grids
Fishnet, power net and mesh reveal a technical focus for materials this season. Geometric formats are key and bring a digital mapping style to clothing and design products. Designer Bomi Park has created a furniture series called Afterimage, creating optical illusions through the use of wire mesh.

Measured Lines
Outlines lend a graphic focus to design, with defined lines that delineate forms. Menswear designer, James Long employs this aesthetic in his prints and constructions. Mark Goldenberg also evokes this linear focus with overlapping and interwoven materials.

Graph Paper
Regular planes of vertical and horizontal lines act as a framework on which all mathematics can be based. Thick black or grey lines on white backgrounds express this new desire for symmetry and infinite geometry. Apply graph patterns to clothing, accessories and interiors to create a new grid-like world.

Precision Laser
Digital, laser cut patterns follow perfect precision offering raw edges and surprising textures.

Pleats Please
Taking inspiration from origami, pleats are regular and structured in a controlled manner. Color blocking adds dimension.

Continuous Lines
Translucent membrane-like fabrics evoke digital precision with mathematically exact stripes.

Net-Work
Mesh fabrics are updated with variable weights and scales. Layering and manipulation develops essential optics.

Encore, by Nicholas Jaar

Tick of the Clock, by Chromatics

Obedear, by Purity Ring

Holy Water, by Actress

Journey 1, by Max Richter

Ping Pong by Swayzak

O Superman, by Laurie Anderson

Inspector Norse, by Todd Terje

Dayglo Reflection, Struggle for Pleasure, by Wim Mertens by Bobby Womack ft. Lana Del Rey

DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY

Ryoji Ikeda Hydro Fold by Christopher Guberan Clock Clock White by Humans since 1982 Icosahedral Quasicrystal Gallium K Percent

ART & ARCHITECTURE

Damien Hirst Victoria Haven Mr Div Javier Toro Blum Troy Dugas Institut Du Monde Arabe, Moucharabieh

FURNITURE DESIGN
Reverb wire chair by Brodie Neill Issey Miyake Lampshade for Artemide Katarzyna Delfina Petkow David Trubridge Geometric Fibre Chair by Timo Hoisko and Matti Korpela Scholten and Baijings

FASHION
James Long Kris Van Assche Mark Goldenberg Daks David Laport Artez Wijnings