Brooks trigger kit set if instructions READ ALL PAGES before attempting as a ballbearing is under the Sear pin

and if lost your in trouble? Ie. Do NOT remove Sear Pin

Step 1 -- take the stock off the rifle. To avoid marring up the screw slots, use a "proper" screw driver to do this. That means one with a hollow ground blade instead of the tapered blade found on normal screwdrivers. When you get the rifle out, you'll find the trigger's inner workings:

Step 2 - use a small screwdriver to lift the lock washer away from the adjusting nut on the trigger spring. That frees the nut so that you can use a small wrench (as I recall, it is 6mm) or a pair of pliers to turn the adjusting nut so that it moves down towards the trigger. Getting the nut all the way to the bottom of that rod gives you the lightest possible trigger pull with the spring currently installed in the rifle. Here is a close up of the spring and nut:

Step 3 - try the trigger to see if you are happy with it. You may want to put the stock back on to give it a proper try. Step 4 - If the trigger is not light enough, you can go a little bit further by removing the adjusting nut. That gives the spring a little more room to stretch out. To get the nut off, you first have to remove one of the pins from the trigger. In this pic, it is the pin at the top of the trigger, furthest to the left:

Use your pin punch and hammer to get that pin out. It will be a bit hard to get started but once it starts moving it should come out fairly easily. Put the rifle on a padded but solid surface (a towel on top of your work table) and support the trigger on something so you don't accidently bend it while hammering away. Something about the thickness of a deck of cards should do the trick in supporting the trigger. Once the pin starts moving you need to make sure it has room to get free on the back side. I just put it on my lap at that point. Step 5 - With the pin removed, you can pivot the trigger down and forward, allowing you to remove the adjusting rod from the hole where it goes up into the action. Slide the spring off the rod, then remove the washer and nut. Put the washer and nut away someplace safe in case you decide to reinstall them later. Now put the spring back on and reassemble everything. Step 6 - Try your trigger again. If still not happy with it, the next step is to replace the spring with a weaker one. Take it back apart (as in step 4), put the nut and washer back on, then put on your lighter spring and reassemble everything. If you find the new spring makes the trigger pull too light just turn the adjusting nut so it climbs away from the trigger and compresses the spring... that makes the pull harder.

http://cz452.com/springkit.html

CZ-452 Rifle Trigger Improvements

Although it is a relatively new arrival to the USA, this series of Czechoslovakian .22 calibre rimfire rifles has been around much of the world for close to 40 years. They have proven to be well-made and quite accurate rifles, and offer excellent value at a reasonable cost. Regardless of the specific model, they tend to have one major shortcoming. The trigger pull, although adjustable in theory, is far too heavy and exhibits too much creep and overtravel in its' operation to suit the tastes of most serious shooters. Over the years, one man . . . Dr. "Nick" Panisuan of Bangkok, Thailand . . . ( I almost showed my age and wrote Siam ! ) . . . has pioneered some simple techniques for minimising these shortcomings. Unfortunately the public website, on which he long exhibited photos of these modifications, has now disappeared in the ongoing turmoil of the Internet. Similarly, myself and others have taken his ideas and expanded or improved (?) them to suit our own needs. This project page will show some of the modifications that any owner of one of these fine guns can carry out with the simplest tools. Dismantling the barreled action - Separate it from the stock by removing the bedding screws to be found in the trigger guard. Take careful note of the arrangement of the various magazine and spacer pieces that are also "uncovered" when you do this. Some owners find it more convenient to handle the barreled receiver if the magazine fittings are also removed at this time. Be aware that the number and location of the bedding and trigger guard screws varies somewhat between different models in this series. The bolt should also be removed by holding the trigger all the way back while uncocking the bolt. To Lighten the Trigger Pull - You will find the trigger / sear sub-assembly held to the lower edge of the receiver by two small pins of approximately 4mm in diameter, (Ref. Figs. 1 and 2 ). Note the third, centre, pin located in the front trunnion of the trigger itself, is staked in position and should not, repeat not, be removed at any time ... ( I'll change that "opinion" later in the instructions for adjusting creep ). If all you want to do is lighten the trigger pull, then remove only the rear trigger pin using a suitably sized pin-punch, ( a #10 finish nail with the point removed works just fine), and light tack hammer. This will allow the rear of the assembly to swing down, thus enabling you to remove the trigger coil spring from its' support rod. ( Note the pull-weight adjustment nut at the lower end of this rod ! ). In his original version, "Nick" suggested replacing this spring with one half of a #150 stock spring available at that time from most larger Ace hardware stores. This pattern spring is rarely to be found nowadays, as Ace has changed suppliers . . . currently they are stocking springs made by Century Spring Corp. of Los Angeles, CA. (CSC).

Fig. 1

Trigger and Sear Pin Locations

Fig. 2

Instead you have several options, depending upon the desired pull-weight range for your needs. Some owners have tried modifying the springs from retractable ball-point pens, but they tend to be too light and of inferior materials and workmanship. If you want a super-sensitive target-style pull-weight of a few ounces, then I would suggest replacing the original spring with the CSC #C-582 from your Ace store . . . this is 3/16" dia. x 13/8" long x 0.016" wire. For day-to-day hunting or plinking my recommendations would be for a heavier gauge spring wire. Unfortunately, the next-heavier, and available, CSC #C-580 springs . . . 3/16 dia x 1-3/8" long x 0.028" wire . . . are a slight interference fit on the locating rod. Therefore, if this is your preference, you will probably need to either change to one of the 7/32" diameter springs, or try your hand at "slightly untwisting" the #C-580 spring over a suitable nail or other mandrel to expand it in internal diameter . . . a tricky operation akin to wrestling a 20 foot anaconda with your finger tips . . . the spring should slide freely over the rod when finished. (See notes below on the availability of complete sets of replacement springs from Eric Brooks) Adjusting Trigger Creep - There are several basic methods for doing this. Regardless of which is used, you will need to remove the front sear attachment pin shown in Figs. 1 and 2 above . . . this separates the sear from the receiver. It also

presents you with a small problem ! In newer models of the CZ-452, the lower front of the sear contains a spring-loaded ball that bears against the receiver . . . the moment the pin is removed this ball tends to disappear forever into 'never-never land' unless restrained, ( Ref. Fig 3 ). I will discuss this problem further down ! Older versions of the rifle use a captive spring plunger.

Fig. 3 Sear Spring / Ball Arrangement Fig. 4 Trigger / Sear Engagement Fig. 4 shows the situation that we are seeking to control . . . the "overlapping" engagement of the trigger and sear. Creep is controlled by minimising that overlap to a point where the desired amount of trigger movement is obtained. Traditionally, a gunsmith would lock one or other of the two components in a special jig and carefully stone away material until the desired interaction is obtained. This involves much trial and error in re-assembling and dismantling of the sear / trigger unit to the receiver . . . very time consuming, not to mention wear and tear on the pins and trunnions. In general I would only recommend light stoning if there should be evidence of machining burrs at this point . . . just enough to remove the burrs, no more ! So how about alternatives ? If you have the equipment and experience it can be accomplished by removing the "centre staked-in pin" that I just told you never to remove . . . it is actually the front pin in the trigger trunnion. Then you will need to machine a slightly larger diameter pin, ream out the old holes in the front trunnion of the trigger, and press in and re-stake the new pin. Diameter of the new pin ? Ahah ! This will

prove to be a trial and error operation, but the size increase will vary from gun to gun, probably in the range of .010 to .030 ". Again, much trial and error re-assembly effort to find the right diameter. Obviously we need something simpler ? Dr "Nick" has come up with a very simple technique for enlarging the pin diameter without all that fuss . . . ! I use it myself and it works just fine. First, get a roll of adhesive-backed aluminium foil furnace tape at the hardware store. Then separate the sear from the trigger, and clean the surface of that front pin in the trigger trunnion using Acetone or MEK. Cut a short strip of the aluminium tape. This strip should be trimmed in width with a sharp knife or scissors to slightly less than the inside length of the pin. Now carefully wrap and stick the tape strip around that front trigger pin . . . three complete wraps works best if the rifle is to be used for competitive target shooting in conjunction with the C-582 spring, and two complete wraps for the hunting rifle conversion. This wrapping is a little tricky, but if you only "stick down" the tape on the accessible rear, upper and front surfaces of the pin, then carefully feed the loose end of the tape through the gap between the pin and the trigger . . . a little push with a screwdriver helps here . . . before attempting to pull it tight around the pin, it is not too difficult. See Fig. 5 for details of a "wrapped" pin.

Fig. 5 Tape-wrapped Front Trigger Pin If you're not confident about the resulting amount of creep that this gives, go ahead and do a trial re-assembly to the receiver . . . ! Personally, I have found by actual usage that this checking is really not necessary. Reducing Overtravel - With pull-weight and creep now adjusted to our liking, there remains the problem of trigger overtravel after sear release. Again there are several methods of reducing this. As the amount of overtravel is controlled in the original design by linear motion of the trigger spring support rod in the matching pocket in the receiver, Dr "Nick" originally suggested light hammering, ( "cold forging" ), of the surfaces of the trigger spring support rod . . . this has the effect of reducing it in

diameter and slightly increasing its' length. My preferred methods involve building up the height of the upper surface of the sear in the area where the wrapped trigger pin contacts it. This can be accomplished by depositing braze spelter, silver solder or soft solder on the upper surface of the sear . . . problem here is heat ! It can destroy the hardness of that heat-treated sear. Instead try one of these methods. Thoroughly clean the upper and side surfaces of the sear with Acetone or MEK. Now add small strips of the aluminium furnace tape to the upper surface to build up the height, and finish up with a strip wrapped over them and down each side of the sear to minimise peeling in use. An even better method, and the one I now use, is to again fall back on the old reliable 5-Minute Epoxy resin. Rough up the upper surface of the sear with a fine file or emery cloth and again thoroughly clean with Acetone or MEK. Mix up a small quantity of the epoxy resin and build up a blob on that upper surface. After the resin thoroughly hardens, dress down the upper surface of the blob to the desired height with a detail sander tool or fine file. Like many tasks in the gunsmithing world this is unfortunately a trial and error operation. If you have reservations about the durability of the resin in long-term use, then cover it with a strip of the aluminium tape from side to side of the sear. Earlier I mentioned the "disappearing ball" problem. A suitable replacement ball can be found at Ace in their specialty hardware section . . . get some of the 5/32" diameter variety, (the original ball size is 4mm but these replacements are only 0.001" off ). The real problem is getting the trigger / sear sub-assembly back in the receiver without again losing the ball and spring. Try putting a small dab of gap-filling Crazy glue on one end of the spring and fastening the ball to it with light pressure . . . be careful not to bond your fingers in place during this process ! Then using finish nails smaller than the actual sear and rear trigger pins as temporary holding devices, carefully re-assemble the unit to the receiver. Now re-insert the sear pin, pushing out the "nail" pin as you do it. Finally tap in the rear trigger pin, knocking out that temporary "nail pin" in the process. If, like me, you only have three hands it is tricky but achievable . . . supporting the barreled action in a padded vise helps at this point . . . using the "nail" pins as levers also helps to get the real pins aligned with the holes. One last item . . . if, like me, you prefer the "American" scope-sights-only version of the CZ-452, either the Sporter or the Varmint variety, I would recommend that you check the fit of the barrel in the forearm of the stock. Make sure that the barrel is fullyfloated back to within an inch or so of the receiver . . . light sanding of the barrel groove is all that is necessary, although a light coating of MinWax Wipe-on Poly varnish will minimise future moisture absorbtion. Glass bedding the action will really finish off these modifications, but that's another story !!! Now go out and play in the yard ! ( NB - All photos edited from Dr. Panisuan's originals)

POSTSCRIPT ! Since the above was written, there have been several "commercial" developments to aid

in the above trigger improvements. First and foremost, Eric Brooks, "Brookie" of Oneonta, NY has put together a kit of assorted springs that can be used to obtain various trigger pull weights to suit the individual owner. The kit also includes several tubular sleeves of differeing wall thicknesses, that can be used to replace the foil tape wrap described in my article for controlling creep. An excellent kit value for $9.00 including shipping . . . saves hunting for them in your local Ace Hardware. His website contains answers to many CZ-452 questions, and descriptions of other products of interest to the CZ-452 owner. These include his new low-profile Weaver adapters for both 11mm and 3/8 inch dovetail bases, and "ghost ring" rear sight blades for those with open-sighted variants of this rifle. So . . . . visit his Website: or E-mail him at : ebrooks77@hotmail.com Another item of interest . . . an adjustable sear, made by Automated Solutions, is now obtainable from Brownells . . . check their latest catalogue. Finally, the Timney folk have developed complete replacement trigger units for the CZ452 .... one that fits the regular .22 and .17Mach2, and another that fits the .22WMR and .17HMR rifles.