Jackets

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane
2008
Contents
S.No. Chapters 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 About the company Group Companies Brand Portfolio Corporate social responsibility Organizational hierarchy Process flow Departments Design dept. Production dept. Cutting Operation breakdown Operation sequence OB(Park Avenue) Finishing Quality Control Warehouse Maintenance Time study Elemental breakdown of time Project Learning experience Page No.
1 6 13 16 17 18 18 20 30 34 37 38 42 51 55 58 60 63 65 103 113
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About the Company

THE BEGINNING...... A vision finds form... A dream conquers reality... Many years ago, Mr. Wadia a businessman, was setting up a small woolen mill in the area around Thane creek, 40 kms away from Bombay. The Sassoons, a well-known industrialist family of Bombay, soon acquired this mill and renamed it as The Raymond Woolen Mills. At that time, the Singhania family was building, consolidating and expanding its various businesses in Kanpur. Around the same time, the Singhania family aimed to broaden their business horizons. The family's sharp business foresight led to the acquisition of The Raymond Woolen Mills. When the grandson of Lala Juggilal, Lala Kailashpat Singhania took over Raymond in 1944, the mill primarily made cheap and coarse woolen blankets, and modest quantities of low priced woolen Fabrics The vision and foresight of Mr. Kailashpat Singhania greatly helped in establishing the J.K. Group's presence in the western region. Under his able stewardship, Raymond embarked upon a gradual phase of technological up gradation and modernization; producing woolen Fabrics of a far superior quality. Under Mr. Gopalakrishna Singhania, the mill became an excellent factory and the Raymond brand became synonymous with fine quality woolen Fabrics. When Dr. Vijaypat Singhania took over the reign of the company in 1980, he injected fresh vigor into Raymond, transforming it into a modern corporate world. His son Mr. Gautam Hari Singhania, the present chairman and managing director has been instrumental in restructuring the group. With the divestment of its non-core businesses, the group has emerged stronger, with a more focused approach. Today, with a 31 million-meter capacity in wool & wool-blended fabrics, Raymond commands an over 60% market share in worsted suiting in India and ranks amongst the first three fully integrated manufacturers of worsted suiting in the world. Raymond are perhaps the only company in the world to have a diverse product range of nearly 20,000 design and Colours of suiting fabric to suit every age, occasion and style. Raymond group export these to over 50 countries, including USA, Canada, Europe, Japan and the Middle East. A 100% subsidiary of Raymond Ltd., Raymond Apparel Ltd. (RAL) ranks amongst India's largest and most respected apparel companies. They bring for their customers the best of fabric and style through some of the country's most prestigious brands such as Manzoni, Parx, Park Avenue, Be:, 1
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Zapp! and Notting Hill. Even as the brand keeps evolving through its cuts, styles, apparels and collections, one thing has remained unchanged over time is the unrelenting pursuit of excellence.
Raymond not only has a great present but there are many other works, which highlights the past of this company. The history of this company is a big story of a grand success and is a matter of inspiration to many of the young aspirants. The company has started from the year 1925 by the Sassoons, the big business family. At each stage, the company kept on writing new achievements, which became the benchmarks for them. Following is the total history of the company year by year:1925 Set up of The Raymond Woolen mill in the area around Thane creek. 1944 - Lala Juggilal, Lala Kailashpat Singhania took over The Raymond Woolen Mill. The mill was primarily making cheap and coarse woolen blankets, and modest quantities of low priced woolen fabrics. 1950 Set up of a new manufacturing activity for making indigenous engineering files known as JK Files & Tools. This has now become the largest facility of its kind in the world. 1958 - The first exclusive Raymond Retail showroom naming King's Corner was opened in 1958 at Ballard Estate in Bombay. 1964 - Setup of a new Combing Division. This was followed by a phase of vertical integration, facilitating in the processing of multi-fibers and technology improvements to make blended fabrics. 1968 - Raymond setup a readymade garments plant at Thane. The readymade garments division of Raymond has since then grown rapidly. Raymond has now become the leader among readymade, in India, achieving a business turnover of over Rs. 2000 million. 1979 Raymond has set up a new manufacturing facility at Jalgaon, to meet the increasing demand for worsted woolen fabrics.
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1980: Vijaypat Singhania took over the reins of the company. He injected fresh vigor into Raymond, transforming it into a modern and corporate world. 1986 A new brand named "Park Avenue", was launched which became the premium lifestyle brand providing a complete wardrobe solution to the men who like to dress well & be current on styles & fashion. 1990 - The first showroom was inaugurated abroad for Raymond in Oman. 1991 Raymond group had set up a new manufacturing facility at Chindwara, near Nagpur. 1995 - Superfine pure wool collection under the Lineage Line was manufactured. 1996 - With a 40 million meters capacity, Raymond became the second largest producers of ring denim in India. 1999 - Launch of "Parx", a premium casual wear brand bringing customers a range of semiformal and casual clothes. 2000 - Launch of Be and Zapp exclusive prt line of ready-to-wear designer clothing for men and women. 2003 - Setup of 'Silver Spark Apparel Ltd.' for manufacturing suits and formal trousers catering largely to export markets. 2003 - Acquisition of Color Plus by Raymond group. 2005 - Setup of state-of-the art jeans wears facility 'Ever blue Apparel Ltd.' near Bangalore. 2005 - Setup of state-of-the art facility 'Celebrations Apparel Ltd.' for the manufacturing of formal shirts. 2005 - Launch of 'Expressions' an exquisite collection of all wool and polywool suiting specially crafted using exotic fibers like Cashmere, Angora, Mohair, Bamboo, Casein. 2006 - Set of Raymond's third worsted unit at Vapi in Gujarat. Raymond now has 3 state of the art units with a combined capacity of 31 million meters of worsted fabric.
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2006 - Launch of design studio in Italy for innovative design capabilities for exports and domestic brands. 2006 - Set up of world class carded woolen unit, Raymond Fedora Ltd, in Jalgaon. 2006 - Set up of Greenfield shirting unit at Kolhapur producing high value cotton shirting. This facility is set up as part of the company's JV with Gruppo Zambaiti. 2006 - Set up of J.K. Talabot Ltd - JV with MOB, France for the manufacturing of files and rasps.
1.2 A BRIEF SUMMARY
The speed at which the world economy is moving is truly incredible. And in this fast-paced global scenario, the spotlight is on India. In this environment, The Raymond Group too has grown at a tremendous pace as made the most of the global opportunities that the post-quota era presented us while consolidating our business in the domestic market. From being one of the most respected textile companies in the world, Raymond are now the worlds largest vertically and horizontally integrated manufacturer of worsted suiting fabric, providing various solutions to the customers across various product categories such as worsted suiting to formal suits, shirting to formal shirts and denim fabric to jeans wear. Raymond Ltd. has expanded capacity of worsted suiting to 28 million meters with a new facility at Vapi, Gujarat. In addition to expanding capacity of our denim fabric facility to 40 million meters, they have joined hands with UCO NV of Belgium, a leading producer of high-end denim to form a global denim company with a combined capacity of 80 million meters, manufacturing facilities in 3 continents and a global marketing network. They further expanded the textile business by entering a Joint Venture with Gruppo Zambaiti, a textile major from Italy in the form of a 50:50 Joint Venture with Cotonificio Honegger SPA for setting up of a Greenfield facility in India for high value cotton shirting fabric. This Joint Venture with Gruppo Zambaiti helped them to bring in best of the best technological & design inputs and a strength of a global marketing network. The Joint Venture with Lanificio Fedora is Italys leading woolen fabric manufacturer for the manufacture of carded woolen products and a respected name in the global markets has helped enhance our carded woolen business as well. Raymond group have set up three
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excellent garmenting units near Bangalore for the manufacture of formal suits, jeans wear and dress shirts. They have also made an initial foray in the auto components industry, acquiring controlling stake in an auto component manufacturing company named Ring Plus Aqua Limited. They have also expanded their existing engineering business through a Joint Venture with MOB, France which will manufacture files and rasps in India for Indian and Global markets. Through the entire growth and consolidation phase, the company has never lost sight of what makes Raymond great. Raymond proved its global excellence by being the first Indian company in the world to bid for the worlds rarest bale of wool and create the worlds finest fabric - Super 230s fabric made of 11.8 micron wool. In keeping with their objective to provide complete wardrobe solutions for the Indian male, Raymond unveiled exclusive brand stores for Park Avenue, Manzoni and Parx. Raymond also ventured into a new area for the first time with a kids wear brand Zapp. The Raymond Group was incorporated in 1925, and within a span of a few years, transformed from being an Indian textile major to being a global leader. Raymond became the first company in 1959 to introduce a polywool blend in India creating the world's finest suiting fabric. Today, the Raymond group is vertically and horizontally integrated to provide customers total textile solutions. Few companies across the globe have such a diverse product range of nearly 12,000 varieties of worsted suiting to cater to customers across age groups, occasions and styles. After making a mark in textiles, Raymond forayed into garmenting through highly successful ventures like Silver Spark Apparel Ltd, Regency Texteis Portuguesa Limitada, Ever Blue Apparel Ltd and Celebrations Apparel Ltd. Raymond has some of the most highly respected apparel brands in their portfolio. The brands are Raymond, Manzoni, Park Avenue, Parx, Be: Home furnishings, Zapp! & Notting Hill.
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The Raymond Group also has an expansive retail presence established through the exclusive chain of 'The Raymond Shop' and stand-alone brand stores for be: and Zapp, Manzoni, Park Avenue, Color Plus, Parx, and Notting Hill. With a 500 million US$ turnover, Raymond today are one of the largest players in fabrics, designer wear, denim, cosmetics & toiletries, engineering files & tools, prophylactics and air charter services in national and international markets. All the plants are ISO certified, leveraging on cutting-edge technology that adheres to the highest quality parameters while also being environment friendly. 1.3 GROUP COMPANIES Raymond Ltd: - Raymond Ltd. is among the largest integrated manufacturers of worsted fabrics in the world. With a 31 million meters capacity in wool & wool-blended Fabrics, Raymond commands an over 60% market share in worsted suiting in India and ranks amongst the first three fully integrated manufacturers of worsted suiting in the world. Raymond Ltd. is one of the first Corporate Houses in India to launch Air Charter Services in India in 1996, and since then it has been always a way ahead for Raymond Aviation. J.K. Files & Tools and Ring Plus Aqua Ltd. are the group companies that are engaged in the manufacture of precision engineering products such as steel files, cutting tools, hand tools, agro tools and auto Components. Raymond Apparel Ltd: - A 100% subsidiary of Raymond Limited, Raymond Apparel Ltd. (RAL) ranks amongst India's largest and most respected apparel companies. The company's Design Studio in Thane is well equipped with state-of-the-art facilities, which stimulate and nurture the creative energies of the Design Team. Their efforts are complimented by a research team, which keeps a close watch on international fashion forecasts and design trends. A Design Studio has also been set up in Italy recently, which has further enhanced our reputation in providing innovative design solutions of an international standard. All the brands are available at exclusive brand stores, The Raymond Shop retail outlets and multi-brand outlets across India and the Middle East.
ColorPlus Fashions Ltd: - ColorPlus was set up in 1993. It is one of India's leading casual wear brands. The shirts, trousers, knits, survival gear and accessories have always met
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international quality standards. ColorPlus is among the largest smart casual brands in the premium category. The company was acquired by Raymond to cater to the growing demand for a high end, casual wear brand in the country. Today, ColorPlus is present in over 180 locations in the South and West Asia through exclusive stores and select 'The Raymond Shop' outlets and is already in the process of expanding further. Driven by a passion to offer the best to the consumer, they constantly innovate our processes and technologies to offer smart casual clothing at affordable prices. Some of the brand's technological innovation s include thermo-fused buttons, golf ball wash, soft jeans, wrinkle free technology, stain-free fabric, and cone dyed technique. Silver Spark Apparel Ltd: - Silver Spark Apparel Ltd. is a wholly owned subsidiary of Raymond Ltd.; marking the group's foray into the Global Apparel Outsourcing market. This unit manufactures suits and formal trousers catering largely to export market. This company Manufactures 4, 50,000 suits, jackets and 2.4 million trousers annually with a total plant built-up area of 200,000 square feet. Set-up at a total project cost of USD 10 million the plant's forte lies in the superior creation of jackets at par with the excellent jackets produced in Italy and Japan. Fully compliant with international quality norms, the facility was audited and approved for commercial production by major American and Japanese menswear buyers. Regency Texteis Portuguesa Limitada: - Regency Texteis Portuguesa Lda, a wholly owned subsidiary of Raymond Limited, is located in northern Portugal bordering Spain, in Caminha. Our unit manufactures suits, jackets and trousers. The Company has steadily made a name for itself among Retail, Brands and Corporate customers in Europe, in the Middle East and in Asia, as supplier of the fine quality custom-made garments. Regency offers a private label collection with Suits, Jackets and Trousers. EverBlue Apparel Ltd:- Raymond have set up a state-of-the art denim wear facility 'Everblue Apparel Ltd.' in Dodaballapur, near Bangalore, offering complete denim solutions to our customers. This plant is integral to our strategy of forward integration of our denim fabric division. With features like a state-of-the-art design studio, computerized cutting, automatic sewing, laser blasting, spraying, sand blasting, and a washing unit with central controls, the plant is considered to be among the foremost units in Asia.
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J.K. Files & Tools: - Raymond Ltd. ventured into the engineering business with the establishment of J.K. Files & Tools in 1949. Over the last 5 decades, we have been progressively expanding our base across the globe. Today, J.K. Files & Tools is the largest manufacturer of steel files in the world with a global market share of over 30% in the files business. J.K. Files & Tools, with three plants in India and one in Indonesia is the largest producer of files in the world. Trusted globally, J.K. Files & Tools has become synonymous with quality and reliability. The products are exported to over 100 countries with a tradition of engineering excellence including Germany, UK, France, USA and Switzerland, etc. The legacy of excellence in quality is shown across our product range, which includes Files, Cutting tools, Hand Tools, Agri Tools. Ring Plus Aqua Ltd: - The auto component industry is poised at the threshold of a quantum leap. The group plans to capitalize on this potential be setting foot into the auto component market through strategic alliances and acquisitions. Raymond has made a foray into Automotive Components by acquiring a controlling stake in a company manufacturing Flywheel Starter Gears and Integral Shaft Bearings for Water Pumps- Ring Plus Aqua Ltd. manufactures its automotive components at two separate locations in integrated factories at Sinnar near Nasik. The product range includes starter ring gears, Flex plate flywheel Assembly, profile sheet Formed Metal Pulley, Integral Shaft Water Pump Bearings. J.K. Helene Curtis Ltd: - Established in 1964, J.K. Helene Curtis Limited is a part of the Raymond Group in India. With an experience of over 40 years in the Personal Grooming and Toiletries Industry, their strength lies in their ability to build excellent quality brands. The varied portfolio of brands namely, Park Avenue, Premium, Monarch and Tru Tone span across the Personal Grooming and Home Care categories. In the past few years, this company has witnessed a significant volume and value growth in the market place. Venturing into non-traditional categories such as Room Fresheners and Eau De Cologne at a very early stage has ensured that our brands enjoy a strong equity in the market place. Today J.K. Helene Curtis Ltd stand among the top players in categories such as Perfume Sprays, Body Deodorants and are market leaders in the Room Freshener and Eau De Cologne categories. J.K. Investo Trade (India) Ltd:-JKIT is an investment company registered with Reserve Bank of India as Non-Banking Financial Company. J. K. Investo Trade (India) Limited
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((JKIT ) formerly known as J. K. Chemicals Limited is a company incorporated in India under the Companies Act, 1913, having its Registered Office at New Hind House, N.M. Marg, Ballard Estate, Mumbai 400 001. Equity shares of JKIT are listed with The Bombay Stock Exchange Limited (BSE) and traded under Stock code 506515. JKIT is an investment company registered with Reserve Bank of India as Non-Banking Financial Company. Celebrations Apparel Ltd: - Raymond has set up a state-of-the art manufacturing facility of formal shirts through a technical collaboration with Flex Japan, a Japanese shirt manufacturing company. The plant boasts of state-of-the-art machinery from Pfaff, Durkopp Adler, and Juki, spreading from Bullmer and cutters from Gerber.
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THE JOINT VENTURES Raymond UCO Denim Pvt. Ltd: - This Company is the manufacturers and marketers of denim fabrics. Raymond UCO Denim is a formidable combination of strengths in product innovation and design and a strong manufacturing back end of manufacturing flexibilities especially in dyeing and finishing. The key strengths of this joint venture company are single entity having manufacturing facilities spread across three continents - the US, Europe & Asia with a combined denim fabric capacity of 80 million meters per annum and a vast global marketing network. UCO is a Belgian textile group with interests in denim, flat, filament fabric and yarns. It produces and sells a diversified collection of denim for leisurewear, focusing on innovative high value added fabrics. UCO is a leading denim player in Europe specially known for colour denim with a 70% share. Raymond UCO Denim will move closer to its customers by increasing the flexibility of operations and servicing the global sourcing requirements of large international brands in their markets. Raymond Zambaiti Pvt. Ltd: - A joint venture with the internationally renowned Cotonificio Honegger S.P.A., (part of Gruppo Zambaiti), Raymond Zambaiti Ltd. produces exclusive cotton shirting fabrics. Gruppo Zambaiti is one of Italy's most popular high fashion cotton textile groups, known for their design and development. They supply the creations to leading shirt brands the world over. Their manufacturing facility, based in Kolhapur has an installed capacity of 10.5 million meters annually. The Raymond Zambaiti Sales & Marketing Strategy is managed by Italian and Indian personals. A dedicated team, composed by professionals from both the countries, coordinates all the efforts in order to capitalize the domestic and international market. Raymond Fedora Pvt. Ltd: - As part of this joint venture, these companies have set up a new excellent manufacturing facility for carded woolen fabric, at Jalgaon in Maharashtra. Following this joint venture, the manufacturing capacities have grown from 1.5 million meters per annum to 2.5 million meters per annum in the first phase. The new plant, spread across 13 acres of land, brings to bear the technical expertise and practices from Lanificio Fedora. They offer a range of excellent products including blankets, shawls and woolen jacketing. Founded in 1948, Lanificio Fedora is the largest producer of carded woolen fabric in the world. With a turnover of about 110 million Euros, Lanificio Fedora supplies its products to some of the most renowned fashion brands across the world.
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Fedora is the largest producer of woolen blankets in the country and offers the widest range of woolen blankets and pashmina shawls. Gas Apparel Pvt. Ltd: - GAS is a leading Italian premium apparel brand owned by Grotto S.P.A and promoted by the Grotto family. The founder, Mr. Claudio Grotto, started his business in fashion in the early 70s. In 1986, the Company was incorporated as Grotto S.P.A. and beginning in 1990 commenced a new phase: the launch of the GAS brand and the very first GAS collection. The brand has strengthened its reputation by setting fashion trends across 56 countries and 3000 points of sale. The Company has a strong Vertical Retail strategy that is being implemented on a global base. Raymonds joint venture with Grotto S.P.A will launch the highly successful 'GAS' brand in India. J.K. Ansell Ltd: - This Company is the manufacturers and marketers of the famous brand of condoms named KamaSutra condoms and other products such as surgical gloves. They export condoms to countries like Chile, Peru, West Indies, Ivory Coast, Mozambique, Ethiopia, Kenya, Nigeria, Sudan, Botswana, Zambia, Nepal, Bangladesh, Cambodia, Philippines, Poland, Turkey, Azerbaijan, Russia, Ukraine, Romania, Sri Lanka, and UAE & Saudi Arabia. The company also exported bulk products to Ansell International for the markets of USA and South Africa. J. K. Ansell markets a wide range of High end surgical and examination gloves. The Medical gloves not only protect the healthcare worker from potentially infectious substances but also protect patients from cross contamination. The company, headquartered in Australia is the market leader in gloves and has created the powder free range of gloves. Their product range includes Gammex, Medigrip Sterile and Non-Sterile and powder free gloves. These are sold to major hospitals and nursing homes as well as glove retailing chemist outlets. J.K. Talabot Ltd:-The joint venture of Raymond group with MOB Outillage SA, together manufacture files and rasps for international markets. This new facility churns out over five lakh dozen files and rasps per annum. We will also produce Talabot branded high-end premium files, marketed by J.K. Files and Tools. Their state-of-the-art plant boasts of the modern machinery, which operate on programmable logic control (PLC). Operations such as forging and teeth cutting are automated with conveyors, walking beams and manipulators. Scouring, washing, emulsion spraying and drying operations are carried out in unique automated module. Their entire plant is divided into four value streams based on
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the concept of "Cropping to Carton" for major product lines. The main plant building is 5000 Square meters without any column support in between thus facilitating high degree of flexibility for plant layout.
MANAGEMENT EXECUTIVES GAUTAM HARI SINGHANIA, Chairman and Managing Director P. K. BHANDRI, Whole time Director and Group President ANNIRUDDHA DESHMUKH, President FMCG & Retail DEEPAK KHETARPAL, President Corporate & Strategic Initiatives HARSHAL JAYVANT, President Engineering Business MARCEL PARKER, President HR ROBERT LOBO, President Shirting Fabric Business SHREYAS JOSHI, President Group Apparel S. K. SINGHAL, President Textiles H. SUNDER, President Finance, Chief Financial Officer
Raymond Apparel Limited A 100% subsidiary of Raymond Limited, Raymond Apparel Ltd. (RAL) ranks amongst India's largest and most respected apparel companies. Raymond Apparel Ltd. has in its portfolio, some of the most highly regarded apparel brands in India. The Raymond Shop is a premium retail store offering complete wardrobe solutions for men, which includes topof-the-line brands - Raymond, Manzoni, Park Avenue, ColourPlus and Parx. The
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Raymond Shop has been a pioneer in organized retailing in the country starting around five decades ago. Our wide reach and range of products, makes it the largest one stop retail network in the country. Over the years, The Raymond Shop chain of stores has become a yardstick by which other retail stores are judged and constantly sets new standards and creates environments that make shopping a pleasure. The Raymond Shop network started with a small corner shop in Ballard Estate, Mumbai, around five decades ago. It has grown tremendously with a dedicated team making it the largest retail store in the country having 350 stores in prime locations, in 150 cities in India. Our overseas network spans 27 stores in 15 cities across the Middle East, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and Nepal. The efforts of the Design Team are complimented by a research team, which keeps a close watch on international fashion forecasts and design trends. A Design Studio has also been set up in Italy recently, which has further enhanced our reputation in providing innovative design solutions of an international standard.
BRAND PORTFOLIO
Manzoni
- Manzoni is a luxury lifestyle brand providing the best in contemporary
international style & luxury. The brand offers the discerning customer a super premium range of suits, trousers, jackets, shirts, and accessories such as ties, cufflinks, belts, socks, shoes and leather bags.
Park Avenue - Park Avenue is a premium lifestyle brand and has been the single largest formal wear brand in India for the past two decades. Launched in 1986, as Indias premium lifestyle brand, its designs embody the latest in international fabric, styling, colour and fashion trends. The shirts, trousers, suits and jackets need little care and therefore convenient to carry, while traveling. The Park Avenue Heritage Wear collection, which includes a range of kurtas & pajamas, made of pure silk and handcrafted embroidery, has gained the appreciation of our discerning customers. The brand has received several awards.
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Parx - Parx is a premium casual lifestyle brand comprising a range of semi formal and casual cottons; blends and denim wear, reflecting the vibrancy and attitude of the energetic 22 to 30 year old people. Parx was launched in 1999 to cater to the smart and fashionable clothing segment. It has garnered a significant market share in this category given our vertical integration and a strong retail presence. The brand affords a wide range of shirts, trousers, denims, polos and outerwear. The range is categorized namely Urban, Sports, Excursion and Club. The Parx range is available at exclusive Parx brand outlets and The Raymond Shop chain of stores across the country.
Zapp! - The burgeoning children's wear market has now turned stylish with Zapp! A brand affording stylish and fashionable kids wears. Children in the age group of 4-12 can choose from a wide range of clothes, accessories, bed and bath linen and more. Designed in-house, the Zapp! Clothing line consists of 'Basics', 'Denim' and 'Street wear' amongst other collections. Along with the clothes kids, accessories such as footwear, bags, bed and bath linen are also available.
Notting Hill - Notting Hill reflects style and manifests originality of today's fashion-conscious and discerning young professionals. Notting Hill was launched in 2007 to cater to the popular price segment. Designed in-house, the brand collection features a spectrum o f mens lifestyle products comprising of suits, shirts, trousers, jeans, T-shirts and also accessories like ties, handkerchiefs and socks. With exceptional fits, styling and colour range, Notting Hill promises to be an instant hit with the young working professionals. It is retailed across India in a phased manner, beginning with Pune and other cities in Maharashtra.
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2.3 BUYERS & MARKET Raymond apparel limited, markets its products through a channel of around 400 dealers, 350 franchisee stores, EBOs of all the brands, 150 MBOs. Their products are also available at 4 Premium stores Shoppers Stop, Life Style, Globus & Pyramid. They also manufacture for institutional orders, e.g. Army Uniforms, Hutch Uniforms etc, under the Park Avenue label MANAGEMENT STYLE They strive for organizational excellence through continuous investment for growth and renewal of their people. There is an intense focus on developing the abilities to respond to existing and future business requirements. A detailed training and development plan is drafted and implemented each year at various level of the hierarchy of people to excel in their current roles and develop them for future roles. There is great emphasis on behavioral and attitudinal training apart from technical as well as on-the-job training, which is also equally important. Here they also provide opportunity for employees to explore their potential for professional growth and personal development. They are attempting to bring as much objectively as possible in our assessments to recognize and reward performers. They believe that employee involvement is the key to continuous improvement, sound decision making and developing an open and transparent organization. They provide opportunities for employees to share their views in shaping people policies through open forums. 2.5 MANPOWER & STAFF Raymond apparel limited is basically for readymade and apparel products. There are 230 employees in management staff working in various departments such as Finance and Accounts, Quality Control (Q.C.), Personnel and administration logistics, Design, Production, IT and Unionized staff is of 250 workers.
Corporate Social responsibilities:-Raymond has two Schools at thane and

Chindwara, with 5300 students and a staff of 250 with fully equipped educational facilities. Here Students of the school have consistently topped board examinations. The schools have perhaps the best average scores in national examinations Rural Development Raymond introduced Embryo Transfer Technology in sheep and cattle for
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the first time in the country by establishing a state-of-the art Raymond Embryo research Centre. The Raymond philosophy of sustained development not only for commercial services but also for those less fortunate has led to the conception of the JK Trust gram Vikas yojna.
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Process Flow:-
Supported by
Design- Prepare Range
Technical Services Prepare Samples
IT
President & Respective Brand Head Approval of Collection Sales & Marketing including all Brands & Accessories Bookings SCM Sourcing Ordering in Bulk HR & ADMIN
Fabric Sourcing Sourcing the material i.e. Development of Desk looms, approval for Production Thane/ Vendors Production of goods
QUALITY CONTROL FINANCE & ACCOUNTS
SCM Logistics Despatched the goods to the dealers, Warehouse, shops and keep the follow up of the goods till the bill is generated
VARIOUS DEPARTMENTS There are 18 departments at Raymond Apparel Limited. Park Avenue: It is the formal mens wear brand. The Raymond Shops are present in most Indian cities and present the complete range of Park Avenue products along with others from Raymond group. The EBO will present the complete range of Park Avenue and help you equip your wardrobe with the best and latest in fashion. 18
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Manzoni: Manzoni is a luxury lifestyle brand. It has truly luxurious range of mens shirts, jackets, suits and ties. The best cottons and exotic fabrics are used for Manzoni garments. Each Manzoni product has something unique about it. The garments are made with only the best in the world linings, interlinings and threads and are constructed in a world-class plant. Manzoni is a brand for the classes not for the masses. Parx: Parx is the largest brand of casual clothing in the country. They are the forefront of technical innovations in casual wear. It is positioned as a premium outdoor lifestyle brand. It has been put together keeping in mind the Italian customer as well as the latest international fashion trends in fabric, styling and color. Zapp: It is a kids wear brand. Accessories: Accessories are available at every Raymond outlet. For each brand different varieties and qualities are available. Products like Tie, Socks, Handkerchief, Belts, Wallets, Cufflinks etc consist of accessory department which are complementary to the main brands such as Parx, Park Avenue, Be:, Manzoni, Zapp etc. Production department: In this department production of shirts, Trousers, Jackets is done. A very systematic process is carried out here in order to provide a fine quality. After going through many operations one finished product of best quality is obtained which again undergo checking and then proceeded further. Excellent machines are available for pressing thus making the product ready to wear. Design: This department is mainly used to make designs, which are prepared, by using CAD machines. And the other process which is carried out here is styling.
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THE DEPT. OF DESIGN Coordination with Other Departments
Marketing
Sampling
Accounts
Design
Sourcing
Purchase
Fabric Sourcing
Functions of Various Depts. (at a glance) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Marketing: Budget & approval Sampling: Style development & product packs, pattern booking sample, consumption Sourcing: Production planning, CM, wash rate, sale month confirmation Fabric Sourcing: Fabric development & costing Purchase: Trims & packaging development, costing Accounts: Costing
A Discussion The budget preparation is one of the vital steps in production planning and in fact marks the genesis. Following information throws more light on budgets: Budgets are prepared for two 6 month seasons viz. Autumn-Winter and Spring-Summer, every year. Budgets take into account the product, quantity per month, average price etc. The quantity per month varies as order type, that is, Booking, Ex-stock and NOS (Never Out of Stock).
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Design process
Trend & Forecast study
Market/ Brand study
Trend presentation
Sales budget from Marketing
Range planning
Design and Development activity
First cut presentation fabrics/ trims
Final cut presentation - styles/ look
Merchandising activity
System linking
Booking activity
Costing approval
Bulk fabric/ Garments ordering
Gold Seal submission
Preproduction Samples approvals
Grid/Trim card
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Brief overview of functions under merchandising System Linking: codes for fabric and garments, style, content linking Costing Approval: CM, wash rates, fabric rate, trim rate, costing approvals; in coordination with accounts dept. Grid/Trim Card: for bulk production submission, sale month confirmation from sourcing dept. Booking Activity: fabric yardages follow up/ shade card development/ bookings samples 4 sets for each zone with barcodes & label danglers/ dispatch of booking samples, shade cards, order form/ booking comments & CG (cutting guideline) review.
Retail projects: It is the department which is responsible for finding property whenever required for establishing the outlets and also for visual merchandising of the products in a proper and attractive manner. It also looks after Architecture part, which should be standardized according to the other outlets.
Product Development: In this department R&D is done. The department undergoes market study in order to find out the lacunas in the product as compare to the competitors or it try to find out the additional factors which make the brand different form others and thus makes the entire analysis of the particular brand in order to explore it more further. This department deals right from raw material manufacturing to presentation of the product, i.e. it deals with entire process to make the further development of the product. Certain Be: wear are also produced here. Quality Control: Quality control department deals with each brand and each of their products including the accessories also. Its a team of 25 people and is categorized in 4 sections Fabric inspection: In this section, 100% inspection or checking of fabric is done if the fabric is not up to the mark of sampling plan or accuracy than it is rejected and send back to the suppliers or if it is proper then further process takes place. Outsourcing products: it is also one of the section where in all the products of the brands i.e. shirts, trousers, jackets are checked properly. Customer complaint is also one of the important section in quality control department. Thus, quality control is the department where, inline, mid line and final inspection of each and every product is done in order to assure its accuracy. 22
2008
Fabric Sourcing: Fabric sourcing deals with every brand such as Park Avenue, Parx, Manzoni, Zapp, Be: . This department coordinates with the design department for the required type of design which is made with the help of CAD machine further taking information it out sources the work to the mills locally or internationally. This desk looms are further approved and then ordering is done. After the production of fabric it is send to the warehouse wherein inspection is done by the department itself. Supply Chain: Supply chain department consist of three sections Logistics the main function of this department is coordination. This department takes care of dispatchment of finished product to the dealers place or to the warehouse. It also keeps follow up of the couriers and transport team. It also looks after the recovery and shortages, which takes place. It keeps the track of the finished products until their bill is generated so that at the end there should be no inventory. It also analyses the status of the particular brand or product in the market according to which production can takes place. Warehouse it looks after the maintenance part of the stock, which is stored here. It keeps records of all inwards and outwards and makes an invoice of the stock according to the movement of the product. Sourcing: On the basis of order released the Sourcing department initiates with its work. It gives further instructs to start the production of the required pieces. In addition, it keeps follow ups with the Design department. Finance, Accounts and Commercial: Finance and Accounts department plays a very important role in the functioning of the company. The main function of the department is 1. To maintain proper books of accounts, records and fund management. 2. To provide various type of reports on the working of the company on regular basis to the management to enable them to frame the policies and guidelines for the working of the company. These reports and information provided by accounts department helps the management to take the proper and timely decisions in the day-to-day working of the company. 23
2008
The activities of the Department can broadly be classified as: Sales accounting Purchase accounting Cash receipts and payments Bank receipts and payments Payroll Income tax/sales tax statutory requirements Insurance/auditing by the statutory auditors. Inventory management/ warehouse Preparation of informative reports etc.
HR and Administration: This department basically looks after the recruitment process i.e. as per the need, interviews are held and then selection is done as per the required criteria etc. It also takes care of employee appraisals, Policy Making, Training and Development etc CAD DEPARTMENT:CAD/CAM & Marker Making The software used for Marker making is ACCUMARK ACCEL and the M/C is Gerber Garment Tech The markers of same styles are saved for future use. They follow the method of Grading, the Basic size for a Trouser is size 86 and the size range is 78-108 The basic size for a Jacket is 100 and the size range is 88-116. All measurements are in cms. Separate markers are made for Interlining, Pocketing, Fabrics. Details found on the marker include notch points, style & size combination, order no., date and marker type. According to the nap direction of the fabric, i.e. nap one way, nap face-to-face and so on, the markers are made. The lay length is not pre-defined, it depends on how the pattern pcs. are adjusted in the marker with maximum fabric coverage and minimum space wastage. The marker is issued to Cutting Deptt. and checked by pattern checker before cutting. Apart from this, the Product Development Deptt. maintains a record of the following: The no. of markers that have been plotted The no. of markers to be plotted The no. of markers already issued to the cutting Deptt. alongwith the Style and Order No.
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Order received from Cutting dept.
Order processing
Model name (1 model/style)
Specifications
Marker making (Manual or automatic from library)
Plotting
Specifications: Software used: Accumark 8.2.1 No. of systems: 3 Digitizer: 1; Gerber - Accumark Plotters: 2; Gerber Technology - Accuplot 300
Marker specifications:Marker name Lay limits Annotations Notch Matching (stripe) Six code Fabric width Target utilization Shrink/stretch Block buffer (2 pieces join) Copy marker Repeat/offset Fabric type A (main)
No. of pieces per trouser: Main fabric 18 Fusing 7 25
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Pocket lining 5 Knee lining 2
Marker mode: - All types of modes are used depending on the nature of fabric and fusing materials. Marker efficiency: Plain fabric 86% Stripes 78% Checks 75%
Digitizing: For manually made patterns Accounts for 1-5% of total pattern making Esp. for difficult designs
Others: Paper roll for plotting is 153 cm while length varies Size range : 92 to 130 (jackets) 72 to 120 (trousers) Booking season : vendors, Autumn-winter, Spring-summer
Department: HOD Mr. Suhas Parab 2 female staff Trainees
THE DEPARTMENT OF INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY Integrated RAL Information System (IRIS) This software is now used by almost all departments and all of Raymond branches. This has helped in ensuring data integrity. While the control remains at head office, the transactions can take place at every authorized Raymond location.
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Business flowchart
Dealers approve shade card and samples
Booking order
Punching (data entry)
Data Consolidation
Report to Management
Evaluation
Data entry & process run
Order confirmation
Report
Production
Dispatch
t finds its applications in i. Warehouse : dispatches (both inward and outward), data entry ii. SCM: reports iii. Accounts: records, data entry iv. Cutting room: cutting order generation v. Design: quality, sample, acetate/wash care label print vi. Stores RAPID It is used by the Human Resource department for catering to the Union (staff).
HRIS It is used by the Human Resource department for catering to the Management staff. IFAS
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The Accounts department uses this software for its various financial dealings as well as for vouchers. Accumark It is used by the CAD for marker making and plotting.
Sourcing Fabric: Fabric is usually procured from Raymonds Ltd. For Manzoni the fabric is imported from Italy. Lining There are four types of lining which are used depending on the desired effect and consequently the price range. Polyester lining: Thread Gutterman Germany Coats Astra
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Imported from Korea through Mallik Sales Corporation Price range: Rs. 56/m
Nylon/ acetate lining: Impoted from Korea through Mallik Sales Corporation Price range: Rs. 96/m
Bamberg Lining (Viscose Cupro blend): Bamberg is a type of yarn. Sourced from the Japanese company Asai Kasai through its agent Itochu in India. Price range: Rs. 200-250/m Polyviscose Lining: Imported from China Price range: Rs. 55-60/m
2008
Fusing Hansel, Germany LDP, France Buttons: Two types of buttons are used and two sizes are used Metal buttons Labels Arex industries from Ahmedabad Main label: 2 Rs Sleeve label: 1.25 Rs Collar hanger tape: 50 p 32 ligne: 18 Rs 24 ligne: 17 Rs
Corrozonut buttons Corrozonut is a nut found in Ecuador and the button is imported from Korea through Mallik Sales Corporation. 32 ligne: 7.25 Rs 24 ligne: 5.25 Rs
Hangers Prajesh Corp Daman: 50 Rs Hangtags/DANGLERS Axis, Lower Parel: 2.50 Rs Washcare, barcode, price stickers are made inhouse Button with string- Ruby end, Bangalore
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Production Department
Fabric, embellishments & other raw materials given to
Marketing
Gives market requirements to
Stores
Gives fabric to
Product Development
Gives production plan (seasons offer plan) to
Sampling
Inspection
Gives inspected fabric to
Planning
Spreading Cutting
Gives marker requirement to
Cutting
Gives cut, sorted and fused parts to
Ticketing Fusing Sorting
CAD: Pattern and Marker Making
Gives marker to
Sewing
Sewing
Trouser Sewing
Inline Pressing Grey Checking
Jacket Sewing
Trouser final pressing (finishing)
Jacket final pressing (finishing)
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Final quality inspection
HR & Admin
Ware House Product Development Bar coding
Cooling Room
Bar coding
Q.C. Audit
Q.C. Audit
Warehouse
Packing
Dispatch
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Layout of Cutting Department & M/Cs arrangement
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The Process of Cutting Cutting plan On receipt of the cutting order from Production Planning Department, the cutting plan is made and the fabric, lining and other materials are requisitioned from the store. The marker length is ascertained as per cutting plan and the qty. of fabric is also arrived at. Acetate labels are printed after the cutting plan is made in accordance with the serial no. of the laying done; it makes the sorting process much easier. 1. Marker making 2. Stores 3. Acetate labels 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Spreading Marking of lay length Spreading of lay paper Manual spreading At least two operators are reqd. for Manual Spreading Edges are cut using hand shears. Spreading modes & Tools Face one way- fabrics, linings, collar Melton Face to face- fusible and non fusible interlinings, fabrics Incase of stripes and check fabrics, the nap laid is face-to-face. For laying of Linen, Lycra and Hosiery fabrics, the bales are unrolled and kept overnight for relaxation of fabric. Stapling/clamping of layers- The layers are stapled and clamped after laying so that it remains firm while cutting. Incase of thin layers, no clamps are used. Cutting- Cutting for Trousers is done by one worker for each lay, using a Straight knife. For cutting Interlinings, Circular Knife is used. Smaller parts of the Trouser are cut and finished in the Band Knife. Rough cutting of Jackets is done with Straight Knife. They are finely cut with the help of Band Knife, for proper finishing as this fabric frays easily. The bottom of Knee lining for Formal Trousers is cut with a zig-zag machine to avoid raveling of edges. Drilling- Drilling is done to mark pocket alignment on the back panel of a Trouser and also for marking of Darts in the Trouser Back panel. Matching of stripes and checks is done manually to avoid and defective stitching. Size wise sorting of garment parts is done followed by bundling. Marking and matching of breast pocket, pocket flaps, front pockets (trouser) are done to avoid any problems for operators in sewing room. The end pcs. of a Fabric is usually used the next a same fabric is laid. If the fabric is too less to cover up one lay, it is sent back to the Store, to be used for defective replacement, arising if any. Hand and soabar ticketing is done in order to avoid a Lot and Shade variation. This ticketing is done to all garment parts so that each garment, as a whole can be identified individually while being stitched together. It also contains information of the Style No., Serial No.
6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
11.
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1. 2. 3. 4.
Preparatory operations Sewing of trouser pocket bag takes place in the Cutting Deptt. itself. Dart stitching- Darts in the Back panel of a Trouser are stitched in the Cutting Deptt. Fusing of all reqd. parts in a Jacket as well as Trouser, is done here itself. Jacket lapel marking- Marking of the Front Lapel in a Jacket as well attachment of Chest piece is done here.
Final sorting Incase of Jackets, the Final sorting is done after certain Preparatory operations are performed in the Jacket line. Incase of Trousers, the final sorting is the last operation of the Cutting deptt. where shade and size wise sorting is done with all parts, their appropriate acetate labels and piece rate coupons are attached herewith. From here, these bundles are carried into the Sewing room with the help of Trolleys. Reporting and record keeping It is the duty of the Supervisors to fill up the Daily Production Report, which provides the Cutting Input, Output from individual workers, also the No. of absent workers. This information is sent to the Production Planning Deptt. which consolidates it in the form of a Daily Production Report. Each Operator is reqd. to fill up a slip at the end of his work shift, providing information of the work done by him.
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Layout of Jacket line
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Operation Breakdown of a formal Jacket

Sr. No 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 Operation No. M1 M2 M3 M4 M5 M6 M7 M8 M9 M10 M11 M12 M13 M14 M15 M16 M17 M18 M19 M20 M21 M22 M23 M24 M25 M26 M27 M28 Operation Detail Sew front darts Marking on front bottom Sew side part to the front body Press open front darts Run on front jet pocket with flap (belly pocket) Prepare flaps Turn through and press flaps Press breast pocket Sew back part( fabric) Sew fabric pocket lining (front part pocket bag) Sleeve hind arm seam Press sleeve cuff Mark and sew sleeve cuff buttons Sleeve head roll attach Prepare sleeve with sleeve lining Press open sleeve seams Sleeve tacking Zig zag under collar to over collar Finish off collar ends plus stitch and fuse stand collar Press collar Drawing collar melton Stitch mirror seam Press open mirror seam Prepare lining tab and button hole Sew lining pockets piping Sew label Sorting and Hanging the jacket on rail Prepare chest canvas with bridle tape
LINE 2 29 30 31 32 33 34 J11 J13 J12 J14 J16 J15 Finish off lining pockets Sew lining back and side part Finish lining shell Sew on welt pocket Press open welt pocket seam Sew welt pocket bag
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35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 LINE -3 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70
J17 J20 J21 J22 J23 J19 J24 J25 J26 J27 J28 J29 J30 J31 J32 J33 J34
Finish off welt pocket with zig zag Finish off belly pocket (fronts) Fuse chest canvas Block pressing of fronts Sew and trim armhole Blind stitch bridle tape on front body Sew back to front Press open back and side part seam (triple press) Bottom turn press Stitch shoulder seams Press open shoulder seam Fixing the shoulder pads (press) Neck and buttonhole marking Collar set gorge seam Sew on the lapel to the body Zig zag under collar to fabric shell Press open lapel edges
OH 1 OH 6 OH 7 OH 8 OH 10 OH 9 OH 14 OH 16 OH 13 OH 17 OH 18 OH 23 OH 19 OH 21 OH 22 OH 25
Hang the jacket on hanger with lining shell Sew lining shell to the body Turn around the jacket Basting on collar and front edge Press lapel steps Lapel turn press Bottom press Pre-gather sleeve head press Sleeve mounting Pad and lining fixing to the armhole Close armhole lining Close under arm sleeve lining Mark and sew button hole Bartack on buttonhole and collar hanger tape Trim off all the loose cotton ends Crown pressing Touch up on lapel points and bottom shape Grey checking
OH 26
Flower buttonhole
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Operation Sequence
M1
M2 M6 M3 M7 M4
M5 M8 J14
J16
J15
J17
M10
J20
M28
J21
J22
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M9 J23
J24 M18 J25 M19 J26 M20 J27 M21 J28 M24 J29 M25 J30 M26 J31 M23 M22
J11
J32
J13
J33
J12
J34
OH6 39
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M11
M12
M13
OH7
M14
OH8
M15
OH10
M16
OH9
M17
OH14
OH16
OH13
OH17
OH18
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Jacket Sewing
The production department is headed by Mr. S M Deshpande, G.M. Productions. The jacket production works on a combination of Bundle system and line system. There are 3 lines Line 1- the M Line This line works on the bundle system and the M stands for Modular system. All the preliminary operations that have to be done on individual pieces are done in this line. For e.g. collar, flaps etc. There are in total 28 operations in this line. At the end o this line the pieces are sorted and all the parts of a single jacket are hung on a customized hanger to move into the next line. Line 2- the J line The J stands for jacket hanging system. The parts of the jacket move from one operator to anoter in acustomised hanger which has wheels to move on the over head rail. As the hanger reaches an operator he takes out the piece which e has to work upon. After completing the work the finished piece is hung back and the hanger is pushed forward for the next operation. At the end of this line the jacket acquires a substantial body and can be hung on proper hangers. There are in total 21 operations in this line. Line 3 the OH line OH stands for over hanger. After the lining is attached to the shell fabric, the jacket is turned inside out and hung on conventional jacket hangers. The end of this line involves grey checking. Also for some styles the grey checking is followed by the flower buttonhole operation. Jackets found defective in the grey checking are sent for repair while the rest move to the finishing department.
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Operation Breakdown :- Park Avenue Jacket (Regular)

Front 1) Dart cutting 2) Dart sewing 3) Dart seam opening and fusing 4) Side panel attachment 5) Tape attachment to arm hole 6) Side seam pressing 7) Flap making 8) Flap inverted and pressed 9) Flap attachment 10) Breast pocket flap attachment with pocket lining 11) Hand cutting 12) Pressing the breast pocket bag 13) Attachment of lining pocket bag to the breast pocket 14) Flap attached with zig zag 15) Pocket bag attached to the bottom pocket 16) Chest piece fused to the front 17) Buck pressing after chest piece attachment (cycle of 14 seconds) 18) Edge stitch on armhole curve and cutting the extra chest padding 19) Bridal tape attached along the roll line with blind stitch Back 20) Stitch back panels 21) Back armhole tape Sleeve 22) Hind armseam (chainstitch) 23) Cuff press 24) Button marking and button attaching 25) Sleeve lining shell making 26) Lining shell attached with fabric shell 27) Lining + fabric inseam joining 28) Pressing seam open of hind armseam and inseam 29) Sleeve Tacking Collar 30) Upper and under collar attached with zig zag 31) Collar attached to collar band 32) Press seam open of collar and collar band 33) Reversible 8mm tape attachment on the opened seam 34) Marking for collar drawing 35) Collar attached to lapel (mirror seam) 36) Pressing seam open 42
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Lining 37) Brand label + additional label (Barcode label) 38) Pocket jet making (upper, pen and cigarette pocket) 39) Making of inner pocket bags with triangular piece 40) Lining pocket bag for belly pocket 41) Back panel stitched and attached with side panel 42) Lining shell prepared Assembly 43) Side panel attached to back 44) Seam press open (Buck press) 45) Bottom hem folding 46) Shoulder attachment 47) Shoulder pressing 48) Buck pressing of shoulder pads 49) Collar and button placement marking 50) Collar attached to front 51) Lapel attached to body(step cutting machine) 52) Collar attached completely with zig zag 53) Lapel edge seam press open 54) Lining shell pressed 55) Sorting table match the size and lot no. 56) Lining shell attached to main body 57) Collar turning (peak point, collar and bottom point) 58) Basting at collar and lapel 59) Pressing peak and collar point along with lapel and cuff 60) Lapel turn press (Indupress) 61) Hem pressing and lapel press (Flat buck press) 62) Sleeve cap padding including pregathering 63) Sleeve cap press 64) Sleeve joining using roller feed 65) Nipping (sleeve attached seam) 66) Slits given at shoulder seam 67) Cut press at shoulder 68) Body lining attached to arm hole 69) Attaching sleeve lining to body lining 70) Join sleeve interlining 71) Marking button hole 72) Button hole bartack 73) Hanger loop 74) Trimming ( removal of all loose cotton ends) 75) Cap pressing (shoulder sleeve adjustment) 76) Touch up press 77) Repairing if required 78) Checking 79) Flower button hole. 80) Finishing (16 more steps including inspection) 81) Total No of Operations at Sewing Floor = 78 43
2008
Operation Breakdown :- Park Avenue Jacket (style-Jck1908,Aw08)

Front 82) Dart cutting 83) Dart sewing 84) Dart seam opening and fusing 85) Side panel attachment 86) Tape attachment to arm hole 87) Side seam pressing 88) Flap making 89) Flap inverted and pressed 90) Flap attachment 91) Breast pocket flap attachment with pocket bag 92) Hand cutting 93) Pressing the breast pocket bag 94) Attachment of lining pocket bag to the breast pocket 95) Flap attached with zig zag 96) Pocket bag attached to the bottom pocket 97) Chest piece fused to the front 98) Buck pressing after chest piece attachment (cycle of 14 seconds) 99) Edge stitch on armhole curve and cutting the extra chest padding 100) Bridal tape attached along the roll line with blind stitch Back 101) Stitch back panels 102) Back armhole tape Sleeve 103) Fusing on upper sleeve for sham hole 104) Sham hole 105) Hind arm seam (chainstitch) 106) Notch putting on the cuff corner and open hind arm seam 107) Cuff making 108) Cuff press 109) Tacking and inseam 110) Sleeve inseam pressing 111) Blind stitch to secure cuff 112) Sleeve lining joined /completed 113) Sleeve lining and sleeve fabric joined together 114) Button attach at sleeve Collar 115) 116) 117) 118) 119) 120) 121) 122) Upper and under collar attached with zig zag Collar attached to collar band Press seam open of collar and collar band Reversible 8mm tape attachment on the opened seam Final press Marking for collar drawing Collar attached to lapel (mirror seam) Pressing seam open 44
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Lining 123) 124) 125) 126) 127) 128) 129) 130) 131) 132) 133) Lining front and lapel attached with folder (piping) Pressing Pocket placement marking Pocket jet making (upper, pen and cigarette pocket) Hand cutting Tacking Brand label + additional label (Barcode label) Making of inner pocket bags with label attached and triangular piece Lining pocket bag for belly pocket Back panel stitched and attached with side panel Lining shell prepared Assembly 134) 135) 136) 137) 138) 139) 140) 141) 142) 143) 144) 145) 146) 147) 148) 149) 150) 151) 152) 153) 154) 155) 156) 157) 158) 159) 160) 161) 162) 163) 164) 165) 166) 167) 168) Side panel attached to back Seam press open (Buck press) Bottom hem folding Shoulder attachment Shoulder pressing Buck pressing of shoulder pads Collar and button placement marking Collar attached to front Lapel attached to body(step cutting machine) Collar attached completely with zig zag Lapel edge seam press open Lining shell pressed Sorting table match the size and lot no. Lining shell attached to main body Collar turning (peak point, collar and bottom point) Basting at collar and lapel Pressing peak and collar point along with lapel and cuff Lapel turn press (Indupress) Hem pressing and lapel press (Flat buck press) Sleeve cap padding including pregathering Sleeve cap press Sleeve joining using roller feed Nipping (sleeve attached seam) Slits given at shoulder seam Cut press at shoulder Body lining attached to arm hole Attaching sleeve lining to body lining Join sleeve interlining Marking button hole Button hole bartack Hanger loop Trimming ( removal of all loose cotton ends) Cap pressing (shoulder sleeve adjustment) Touch up press Repairing if required 45
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169) Checking 170) Flower Buttonhole 171) Finishing (16 more steps including inspection) Total No of Operations at Sewing Floor = 87
Operation Breakdown: - Manzoni Jacket

Front (Operation 1)
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Dart cutting Dart sewing with cotton tape (4-5 cm) Dart seam opening and fusing Side panel attachment Tape attachment to arm hole Side seam pressing
Operation 2
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Flap making Flap inverted and pressed Flap hand pressing Breast pocket press Complett stitch on flap Flap matching
Flap attachment
Cut and invert pocket to form lips Operation 3 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Breast pocket flap (1st pocket bag fabric attached) 2nd pocket bag fabric attached of breast pocket Hand Cutting Pressing Sewing breast pocket bag Pressing the finished pocket Chap chap(Plonker Basting)raw stitch on breast pocket to hold it
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8. Zig zag stitch to breast pocket 9. Blind stitch on breast pocket (on under side) 10. Bottom Pocket bag facing stitching 11. Bottom pocket bag stitching 12. Pressing for split opening 13. D bar tacking on bottom pocket Back (Operation 4) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Stitch back panels Tape attached at shoulder Back pressing AMF on the centre back(hand stitch appearance) Pressing of side vent Taping at the side vent crease(inside) Back armhole tape(neck 1 inch and armhole inch) Keep back stripe straight and press
Sleeve (Operation 5) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Fusing on upper sleeve for sham hole Sham hole Hind arm seam(chainstitch) Notch putting on the cuff corner and open hind arm seam Cuff making Cuff press Tacking and inseam Sleeve inseam opening Blind stitch to secure cuff
Operation 6
1. Sleeve lining joined /completed
Sleeve lining and sleeve fabric joined together
Button attach at sleeve

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Operation 7 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Upper and under collar attached with zig zag Collar attached to collar band (stand patti) Press seam open of the stand. Marking for collar drawing. 2mm width tape with gather as prescribed Press the collar and fold the felt reverse on the collar draw stitch and press
Lining with Peninsula pocket (operation 8) 1. Marking on peninsula piece 2. Piece attachment on interlining 3. Facing (lapel) + interlining 4. Saddle stitch 5. Pressing after saddle stitch 6. Pocket marking on piece 7. Pocket attached 8. Hand cutting of Lining pockets (all 4 pockets) 9. Label attachment (brand label + additional label) 10. Pocket Jet Pressing 11. Tacking to secure the pocket bones 12. Formation of pocket bag with label and triangle piece 13. Passport pocket on right side with triangle and a loop 14. Left side pocket (pen, passport, ticket) 15. Pressing triangle and pocket bag 16. D bartacking on all the lining pocket corners 17. Blind stitching of pocket bags to hold the pocket bags 18. Back lining stitched ( 1.5 cm allowance) 19. Side panel attachment ( 1 cm allowance) 20. Lapel attached to lining side panel 21. Front lining attachment 22. Collar attached to lining shell(mirror seam) 23. Saddle stitch on rest part of the lining(neck) 24. Sweat piece making 25. Inverting and pressing the sweat piece 26. Sweat piece attached to lining armhole 27. Pressing of the seams Operation 9 1. canvas chest piece on front fabric part (by matching notches) for giving chest fullness(plonker machine) 2. Pressing (to hold the piece in position) 3. Roll padding(19 stitch lines along the lapel) 4. Buck pressing the canvas attached to front to give shape 5. Cutting of extra canvas near armhole
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6. Marking according to pattern and cutting 7. Tape(2cm 15 degree bias) attached with lockstitch 8. Pressing on the tape 9. Bridal tape attached along the roll line with blind stitch 10. Blind stitch on the attached tape to hold it 11. Marking of peak point, bottom curve and notch 12. Attaching front and back with a cotton triangular piece near the side vent corner (in order to avoid stretching) 13. Press opening of back and side seam 14. Bottom folding 15. Shoulder seam 16. Shoulder seam press open and non woven fusing attached to hold the seam(on neck and side). 17. Shoulder pad attached to shoulder 18. Neck marking and vent marking 19. Pinning for button hole placement Operation 10 1. Lining and fabric shell attached to body at neck with zig zag stitch 2. Gorge seam 3. Lapel attached to body(step cutting machine) 4. Edge seam open 5. Press opening the mirror seam and attaching 8mm reversible tape 6. Lining shell attached to the body 7. Turning all the corner points and curve point 8. Basting along lapel and collar 9. Press to finish collar and cuff 10. Finish off collar reverse edge by hand stitching. 11. Lapel turn press (Indupress) 12. Hem pressing and lapel press (single buck press) Operation 11 1. Pregathering at sleeve cap 2. Cap padding attachment 3. Sleeve cap press 4. Sleeve attached to armhole (roller feed) 5. Nipping (sleeve attached seam) 6. Cut open seam 7. Attaching body lining to armhole 8. Attaching sleeve lining to body lining 9. Joining sleeve interlining 10. Button hole marking 11. Button hole (eyelet or keyhole type) 12. Bartack at the buttonhole end 13. Hanger loop label at neck 14. Trimming table ( removal of all loose cotton ends) 15. Cap pressing (shoulder sleeve adjustment) 16. Touch up iron for fine curves and points 17. Grey Checking
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18. Complett stitch all around the interlining 19. Flower buttonhole on lapel 20. Securing side slits or vents with a hand stitch in form of (X)
FINISHING PRESSING & QUALITY CONTROL
Layout of the pressing unit
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2008
Finishing Department It is one of the most important operations, more so in the case of jackets, as it provides the garment with its final look. Improper ironing can destroy the entire look of a perfectly stitched garment. The finishing department is divided into two sections: Jacket Pressing Trouser Pressing And has some very specialized machines. Jacket Pressing Since jacket is a structured garment it requires special pressing to mould the garment to the body contours. During sewing inline pressing is carried out at various stages. But the final pressing provides the required finish and moulds it to the body contour and hence provides a better look and appeal. The sequence of operations in the jacket pressing section are: Back Pressing Front Pressing Shoulder & Sleeve Pressing Collar Pressing Lining Ironing Button Marking Button Attaching Button Wrapping Lapel Pressing Touch Up
Specialized machines with bucks shaped to suit the various parts of the jacket. A central boiler at Raymonds Ltd. provides the steam to all the various machines.
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The pressing line for the first four operations uses an overhead rail system after which the jackets are moved from one operator to another on trolleys. The jackets arrive from the sewing room on hangers. The operator takes the jacket off the rails or trolleys, performs the operations and hangs it back on the trolleys. Types of presses in the jacket section Carousal Presses For back and front panel pressing four buck automated pressing machine are used. These are fully programmable, pneumatically
controlled machines. The machine has a rotating table with four bucks and can press two jackets at a time, while the operator places the jackets on the other two bucks. There is also a hand iron provided along with it to give any touch up if required. A usual pressing cycle consists of Vaccuum Close Presses Head Steam Buck Steam Cooling (Air Blow) Vaccuum Open
Shoulder & Sleeve Press The company has an automatic unit for shoulders, sleeves & armhole finishing of jackets with two independent ironing stations. Each station consists of one dummy on which
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is placed the garment to be ironed. There are two shapes for ironing inner & outer sleeves and one vertical pressing shape for shoulder ironing.
Collar & Lapel Press Its a one station electropneumatic machine for collars and lapels ironing. It is made up of a buck, on which is positioned the garment to be pressed, and one head with vertical approaching movement. The m/c can be programmed for automatic working cycle, safety devices apart from the manual controls fitted on the frame.
Button Attaching Button attaching is done after the pressing operations otherwise the buttons will hamper the pressing. They may leave marks or may even get distorted during pressing.
Button Wrapping This operation makes the button attachment firm so that the button is stiff and oes not wobble. However this is not done for metal button.
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Layout of Quality Control Department
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Quality Control
Quality can be defined as a combination of the characteristics or properties of a product which make a product usable. The extent to which a product successfully serves the purpose of the user during usage is called its fitness for use. Therefore the quality of all products may be described in terms of whether the products are fit for use or not. Fitness for use in the most widely used concept of quality and is determined by those features of a product that a user can recognize as beneficial. Fitness for use should be judged from the consumers point of view and not from either the manufacturer or sellers perspective. Garment quality is broadly classified into two categories. One is from aesthetic point of view and another is serviceability of the product. The aesthetic value can be judged through inspection while the serviceability of the product can be determined through testing. It is evident that without testing it is not possible to evaluate the hidden qualities of any commodity. In the age of cut throat competition, apparel buyers specify their quality requirements. In order to have customer satisfaction quality parameter should conform to specification. Raymond Apparel Limited is well known for its best quality products. They are taking good amount of efforts to maintain their quality. No compromise is made for the same. Final checking of the finished garment (trouser & jacket), is done in the Quality section. The Quality controllers do very fine checking.
Fabric Quality Check: - Fabric is checked 100% for various defects like:
Weaving defects Holes Printing / dyeing defects Water / crease marks Colour variation Width wise segregation
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Trims
All trims are checked for durability and performance and are ensured for compliance with care instructions. All trims are attached correctly using proper attachment methods.
End of line checking Quality checking is done at the end of the line before the jacket goes for finishing. This checking is termed as grey checking. If any defect is found the jacket goes for repair work else it moves to the finishing section. A final inspection is carried out at the end of the finishing line. The hanger is put on a board and is then inspected for pressing defects. The person has a small slip with jacket diagram on it wherever there is a pressing defect it is indicated on the jacket diagram. The slip is then put on a button and the jacket goes for repair.
The functions of the quality department also involve making sure that the packaging is done properly.
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Grading: 1. Good: this grade is given when the garment is perfect, even without any minor alteration. 2. A-grade: this grade is given when the garment has minor alterations which can be mended or such stains that can be removed. 3. Seconds: if there is any minor shade variation, small fabric defect, fabrication fault which is not noticeable and cannot be mended are put in this category. 4. Salvage: garment with either major fabric defect, shade variation, fabrication fault or stain are discarded/salvage. Working: A slant board is used for checking of jackets & a flat table is used for the checking of trousers. Following criterias are checked by the checker Fabric defects Shade variation Fabrication faults Stains Press marks If any of the above-mentioned defects occurs, a checker slip is filled and the problem is mentioned on the slip & sent to the respective department for their mending. If there is any weaving defect, the garment is sent to the mender who mends the defects. Final checking: Quality incharge does the final checking. He categorizes the garment according to he grades. When the checkers check the garments & those, which are GOOD, are forwarded for final checking. Garment sent for alterations are then directly sent for final checking after being altered. Incharge minutely checks the garment before categorizing. If any re-alteration is required, then it is done and the garments are rechecked by the incharge and send to the ware house in the respective category for packing.
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WAREHOUSE & PACKAGING Layout of the Warehouse
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Raymond Apparel Ltd. has a strong storage capacity. The Garments are assorted as per style and grades and are mostly stored in movable hanger trolleys. Following are the Tags and Danglers used in these garments apart from the Price Tag Hangtags/danglers attached as per the Season. They could be attached either to the back Pocket or the Belt loop of a Trouser; as per the style. Brand Tags Special Tags to denote blends or Fabric constitution. Danglers constitute Business wear, Leisure wear and Evening wear and so on. Plastic/Wooden hangers with their brand names are used for hanging the garments. The Warehouse has the following departments under itCooling Room Trousers and Jackets are sorted out as per Style, Size and Shade and are then sent to an airconditioned room for cooling. The barcode label is prepared here and it consists of details like Size, Fabric composition, Style description, Barcode No., Lot No., Product quality and Price. These labels, for a particular style are sent back to the Warehouse and are attached to the danglers. Auditing/Offering After the Barcoding is done the Jackets, Suits and Trousers are sent for Audit. The Warehouse in charge sends details of style and quantity to the Audit in charge. The Garments are randomly checked and if and problems, they are sent for rectification to the concerned department. The goods are then sent for Packaging and Pairing (of Suits). If the quality of a garment is not found suitable, it is sent to Seconds or for Salvage. Pairing The Trousers and Jackets for suits are sorted out separately on the basis of size and then paired together. The Suits are stored in racks as per the size and packed as per the order requirement. They are stored in groups such as Business wear, Leisure wear, Evening wear and so on. Packaging Wooden hangers are used for packing of Jackets and Suits. Trousers are usually folded and packed in Cartons. In case of Suits, the hanger has a plastic string attached to it, on which the Trouser is hung and it is fastened with crocodile clips to hold it in place. The Suits and Jackets are usually covered in Plastic, followed by a Jacket cover and then packed vertically in the cartons. A single carton can fit upto 6 pcs. The Trousers are packed in Cartons of 14 pcs. and re-packed in a bigger carton which can fit 3 such cartons of Trousers. The in-charge provides a packing list, a copy of which is put inside the carton and with the help of these details a label is attached to each Carton having Order No., Qty, Address of Consignor, Consignees Address, Challan No., Grade, Carton No. and Gross Wt.
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3.9 MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT In order to maintain the production flow in various departments, Raymond Apparel Ltd. ensures that all its machines and equipments are well maintained. It is the responsibility of Supervisors in each Deptt. to inform the Maintenance Deptt. about any possible problems arising as a result. Some of the most common problems could be related to thread breakage, clogging, skipped stitches, needle breakage and other malfunctions. A regular overhauling of all machines is done every Sunday and the above problems are taken care of. The Boilers, Vacuum tubes and Compressors are also checked and serviced. The Maintenance Department keeps a detailed record of all machines and equipments in different departments; like Model No., Make, Needle No., Feed Mechanism etc. to facilitate easy arrangement of spare parts for machines. Thus, it ensures that no problems arise and slower the production process and also maintain the required quality standards.
Costing
Direct Cost Fabric rate/m Excise/sales tax/m Total / m Consumption per garment Fabric cost per garment Embellishment Packaging Freight, octroi, lab testing changes Commission Total material cost Conversion charges Trims Total direct cost xxx xxx xxx xxx xxx xxx xxx xxx xxx xxx xxx xxx xxx
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xxx Contribution Overheads Agent Commission Freight Cash Discount Total Overheads Net Contribution Advertising Max Retail Price xxx xxx xxx xxx xxx xxx xxx xxx xxx
Documentation Indent Whenever a department has to order some material, they place an indent with the purchase department. The department placing an order maintains a copy and copies are sent to the other department i.e. purchase, stores, a/c departments. It has the details of the goods to be purchased. Purchase Order The purchase department prepares a purchase order as per the requirements specified in the indent and places the order with the vendor. The purchase order has the terms & conditions which are binding to both the parties. The purchase department retains one copy and sends one copy each to accounts, stores and indentor.
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GRN The goods received note is a form, in which an account of the amount of goods received, rejected & accepted in the stores is kept. It also maintains an account of the discounts received and the duties and taxes that are to be paid. The original form is sent to the accounts department for release of payments. One copy each is sent to the purchase department and the indentor. Cardex After the GRN is made the material is registered in the Cardex. Cardex has the information about the GRN number, quantity received, quantity issued and the balance quantity. Thus it helps in keeping a record of the current stock. Cutting Order The cutting order contains the information about the style, quantity, quality, fabric shade, and lining. The product planning department issues the cutting order to the cutting department. Requisition Slip In order to procure any material from the stores a requisition form is to be filled and sent to the stores. It contains the details of the materials taken out. Issue Slip: After the materials are issued an issue slip is generated.
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TIME STUDY
OPERATION NAME (PA REGULAR) DART CUTTING AND MARKING DART SEWING PRESS OPEN FRONT DARTS SIDE PANEL ATTACHMENT ATTACH TAPE AT FRONT ARMHOLE PRESS SEAM OPEN PREPARE BOTTOM POCKET FLAPS TURN THROUGH AND PRESS FLAPS FLAP ATTACHMENT TO BOTTOM POCKET SEW BACK PARTS STITCH TAPE TO BACK ARMHOLE MARK NOTCHES & ZIG - ZAG UNDER COLLAR TO OVER COLLAR ATTACHING COLLAR BAND PRESS COLLAR TO ATTACH REVERSIBLE 8MM TAPE FINAL PRESS COLLAR RAW STITCH ON UNDER COLLAR STITCH MIRROR SEAM PRESS OPEN MIRROR SEAM SLEEVE OUTSEAM STITCH PRESS OPEN SEAM BOTTOM FOLD BUTTON ATTACHING STITCH SLEEVE LINING OUTSEAM LINING SHELL ATTACHED WITH FABRIC SHELL AT CUFF LINING AND FABRIC INSEAM JOINING PRESS INSEAM AND OUTSEAM SLEEVE TACKING BRAND LABEL AND ADDITIONAL LABEL ATTACHMENT POCKET JET MAKING LINING INNER POCKET BAG MAKING SEW LINING BACK AND SIDE PART LINING FINISH LINING SHELL SEW ON BREAST POCKET PRESS OPEN BREAST POCKET SEAM SEW BREAST POCKET BAG FINISH OFF BREAST POCKET WITH ZIG ZAG 63
OPERATION TIME 0.94 0.78 1.93 1.07 0.9 1.65 0.9 1.1 1.86 0.75 0.91 1.1 0.8 0.8 0.7 0.6 1.1 0.8 1.4 0.9 1.1 0.8 0.95 0.72 1.1 1 0.7 1.86 1.75 1.78 1.19 1.04 1.45 1.1 1 1.1
2008
FINISH OFF BELLY POCKETS FUSE CHEST CANVAS BUCK PRESSING OF FUSED FRONTS MARKING AND SEW ARMHOLE(CUTTING THE EXTRA CHEST PADDING) BLIND STITCH BRIDLE TAPE ON FRONT BODY SEW BACK AND SIDE PANELS PRESS OPEN BACK AND SIDE PART SEAM BOTTOM TURN PRESS STITCH SHOULDER SEAMS SHOULDER SEAM PRESSING FIXING THE SHOULDER PADS (PRESS) COLLAR AND BUTTON PLACEMENT MARKING COLLAR ATTACHED TO FRONT SEW ON THE LAPEL TO THE BODY ZIG -ZAG UNDER COLLAR TO BODY PRESS OPEN LAPEL TO BODY LINING SHELL PRESSED HANG THE JACKET ON HANGER WITH LINING SHELL SEW LINING SHELL TO BODY BASTING ON COLLAR AND FRONT BODY EDGE CUFF PRESSING PRESS LAPEL PREPARE SLEEVE CAP PRE GATHERING SLEEVE HEAD SLEEVE CAP PRESS SLEEVE ATTACHMENT SLEEVE NIPPING SLEEVE CROWN CUT & PRESS OPEN PAD AND LINING FIXING TO ARMHOLE CLOSE ARMHOLE LINING CLOSE UNDERARM SLEEVE LINING MARK AND SEW BUTTONHOLES BARTACK ON B/HOLE AND COLLAR HANGER TAPE TRIM OFF LOOSE ENDS SHOULDER PRESSING TOUCH UP ON LAPEL AND BOTTOM SHAPE GREY CHECKING FLOWER BUTTON HOLING CHEST PAD MAKING TOTAL TIME ALLOWANCE ADDED STANDARD TIME (SAM) 64
2.3 1.37 1.2 1.1 0.9 1.5 1.6 0.96 1.2 0.95 1.2 1.4 2.65 2.1 1.1 2.1 1.1 0.9 2.7 2.54 0.8 1.69 2.6 1.2 1.02 2.6 0.9 1.1 2.4 2.1 1.1 1.4 1.2 2.4 1.4 1.2 1.6 0.8 3.15 101.4 15% 116.64
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PROJECT UNDERTAKEN
ACHIEVING ZERO DEFECT IN QUALITY BY IMPROVED METHODS OF PRODUCTION
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Objective-To achieve the best quality of production by employing improved methods of production. Project Methodology-Before starting to look for better practices of production one
must be aware of following parameters:
Quality norms Probable Reasons for Defects Effects of defect
Key Quality Parameters for a Jacket The front dart should be clean and without any dimple. The two piece tape should be attached to the back neck. The dart is slightly curved towards the armhole. ( it should not fall straight ) The breast pocket should be pressed as per the given markings. ( It should not be broad narrow ) The half canvas should be fixed without any bubbles on the front. Marking for lapel joining should be equal for both the fronts. The shoulder seam should be concaved towards the front. No fabric to be cut while doing gorge seam. The fusing tape should be fused to the mirror seam at lapel pressing and the paper should be removed at indu press.(lapel pressing mc) Front to be edge pressed before doing AMF stitch. Centre of lining should match with the centre of collar. ( No centre out should be there ) The front flap pressing should be done so that the shape in retained and the flap mitering is in tact in case of checkered or striped fabrics. The AMF on the collar should be such that it does not come onto the body fabric and should be on the under collar felt only.
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Approach For this project I studied and analysed about 100 grey checking sheets of past 4 months. (Jan, Feb, March and April 2008).Also I took a bundle of cut sleeves from the sewing floor. Then I checked each and every cut pattern with the original paper pattern of the sleeve and found that the armhole shape was not matching with the original pattern. There was a considerable difference of about to 1/8 from the original paper pattern at the armhole curve. I took the grey checking sheets from QC department and gathered the following data Defects in a jacket:Back and side part Side seam loose/open Collar back center out Back checks/stripes matching wrong Lining seam open Back cut up/down Back cut top stitch Front and lapel:Bottom shape/point shape Lapel peak shape/open Flap shape/lining out Flap checks/stripes matching Lapel edge out Lapel peak Broad/Narrow/edge out Front pocket piping stitch fold
Sleeves sleeve fold sleeve joint front gather sleeve joint back gather / fold sleeve joint back stitch loose sleeve shoulder joint gather sleeve lining open/loose cuff press / tacking open sleeve lining thread out sleeve lining long arm hole lining tight
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sleeve canvas fold sleeve out arm hole lining stitch out sleeve bounce out sleeve joint back fold sleeve head roll fold
Collar Collar peak stitch open Collar peak B/N Collar felt/ Melton out Collar shape Collar felt open Others Size label/Brand name label Lining pkt. Bone stitch fold Breast pkt. Stitch loose/open
After checking the grey checking sheets it was found out that the highest number of problems that occurred in a jacket was in the sleeves. (52%)
back and side part front and lapel sleeves collar others
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333 81 569 7 111
2008
The following graph shows the amount of defects and the types of defects in a sleeve. The graph is totally based on the data collected after analysing the check sheets.
Major Defects in Sleeve
19 cut patterns of sleeve with variation in size in comparison to the respective pattern, from 34 observations, i.e. 55.87% 569 Defects were observed in sleeve, which sums up to 55% of the total defect
Cause Analysis The probable causes are: Spreading Cutting Fusing Sewing Inspection
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Effects of defects Increase in cost of production due to rework. Increased throughput time, thus increasing the WIP o sewing floor. Engages operators in extra work of ripping the jacket Extra usage of materials, i.e. thread, machine, fabric .
Spreading: Improper tension in spreading. Slacked lays. Crease and bubble formation in fabric layers
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Cutting: Fusing: Sewing: Inspection: Hangers used for jackets not appropriate to their size. Head roll attachment, common for all sizes. Seam allowance for sleeve attachment varied. Uneven allowance around the fusing. Change in orientation of the pattern. Yarn pulled out during cutting. Blade is not sharped properly.
DELIVERABLES
Solutions: Proper weight to be used for clamping the fabric during spreading. Proper care to be taken that the bubbles be removed from the lay. Pin table to be used for the laying of checks and striped fabrics. Head roll to be in accordance with the size of the jacket. Hangers used for jackets to be of appropriate sizes. Do not fold the bundle during cutting with band knife which results in shifting from the previous position. For stripes and check matching a pin table is a good idea which requires very less investment.
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THE PIN TABLE
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Nut bolt to hold the pin
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Learning Experience and Conclusion:Raymond is considered to be one of the most respected organisations among the textile and apparel manufacturers of India. It is said that Raymond believes in Old is Gold terminology, which I found very true when I was there at thane factory for my internship. The first day 2nd of June, 2008 when I stepped into the the old unit of Raymond, I was surprised to see that majority of pupil present on that floor would be around 50-60 years of age. This gave me an idea that how old the factory was and how experienced must the workers be who are working that factory.
About 60% of the workers strength must be above 50 years of age.30% young and middle aged and rest women. Workers are paid on piece wage system so they have to complete the target of their operation for a day, which they do it very easily without any problem, as they have been working there for the past 30-40 years. I would like to share one interesting incident whosoever is referring this document. I was doing the time study for Manzoni jackets as per the organization asked me to do.i was taking the time for the APW machine (automatic pkt. Welt).The worker didnt noticed me. The first reading was 15 sec. and similarly the second reading was 16.72 sec.then suddenly the worker turned back and saw me taking the time.He thought for a second and then again started sewing.Now the readings were like this-24.82,29.04,35.28.I was thinking that I am smarter than these guys but they were even smarter than me. Another incident which took place was for the same reason. But the treatment was a little different.this person was pressing the shoulder of jacket. as usual he saw me taking the time.he called me up and gave me a slip. He saidIsme mere operation ka time likha hai, likh lo aur jaao yehaan se.i was once again mesmerized by the incident which took place. But the work atmosphere is very cool and all the workers are very helpful till you dont interfere in their work.Afterall it is the matter of earning money. They were afraid that if I will show the readings (correct ones) to the organization then the target of their operation might be increased which nobody wants.Anyways it was an amazing experience and I would love to work for Raymond apparel ltd.
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Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

About the Company

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

- Manzoni is a luxury lifestyle brand providing the best in contemporary

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Corporate Social responsibilities:-Raymond has two Schools at thane and

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Design- Prepare Range

Technical Services Prepare Samples

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

THE DEPT. OF DESIGN Coordination with Other Departments

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Trend & Forecast study

Market/ Brand study

Sales budget from Marketing

Design and Development activity

First cut presentation fabrics/ trims

Final cut presentation - styles/ look

Bulk fabric/ Garments ordering

Gold Seal submission

Preproduction Samples approvals

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Order received from Cutting dept.

Model name (1 model/style)

Marker making (Manual or automatic from library)

No. of pieces per trouser: Main fabric 18 Fusing 7 25

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Pocket lining 5 Knee lining 2

Department: HOD Mr. Suhas Parab 2 female staff Trainees

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Dealers approve shade card and samples

Punching (data entry)

Data entry & process run

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Internship at Raymond Apparel Limited, Thane

Fabric, embellishments & other raw materials given to

Gives inspected fabric to

Gives marker requirement to

Ticketing Fusing Sorting

CAD: Pattern and Marker Making

Inline Pressing Grey Checking

Trouser final pressing (finishing)

Jacket final pressing (finishing)