Coastal & Arid Geomorphology

Lab 10

Coastal Geomorphology
Concepts

Principal Forces for Erosion (5) Landforms

Barrier Island/Lagoon Barrier Spit Beach Coral Reefs Tombolo Wave-cut arch & platform

Coastal Geomorphology
Principal Forces for Erosion

1. Tides

Oscillations of ocean water: gravitational pull of the Moon and Sun 24 hours: High-Low-High-Low tide periods

2. Sea-level changes Rising/Falling results from tectonic activity or amount of water

in ocean Creates emergence (above water) and submergence (below water) coastlines

Coastal Geomorphology
Principal Forces for Erosion (cont) 3. Waves

Most important erosional force

4. Currents

Large volumes of water moving horizontally Consistent winds create currents Longshore currents transport sediment down a coastline (helps in formation of beaches)

5. Stream Outflows

Spills sediments out into the ocean and adds material to beaches Deltas often form at the mouth of rivers why?

Coastal Geomorphology
Landforms: Barrier Islands/Lagoons
Barrier Island
Long, narrow, low island that lies parallel to a shoreline. Buffers the mainland from storms and large waves.

Lagoon
Nearly isolated body of water, separated from sea by the barrier island. Low-energy waves and relatively calm area, so sediments may accumulate. Mudflats, marshes, swamps

Coastal Geomorphology
Landforms: Barrier Spit

Barrier Spit
Coastal barriers that extend into open water, attached to the mainland at one end. Can develop into a barrier island if it becomes separated from the mainland.

Coastal Geomorphology
Landforms: Beaches
Beaches

Made of eroded continental material (sand, gravel, rock fragments) that are washed to the sea by streams. Sediment gets suspended in sea water and is often transported further down the coastline by longshore currents. Longshore currents provide a continual onshore-offshore movement which pushes the sand along the beach edge. Often called littoral drift.

Coastal Geomorphology
Landforms: Coral Reefs
Reef formation first determined by Charles Darwin, mid-1800s. Occurs in tropical zone approx 30oN to 30oS. More coral species live in the Pacific than anywhere else!

Fringing Reef
Forms along shoreline of volcanic island (hot spot) it likes the warm waters!

Barrier Reef
Island begins to sink or erode, but reef continues to grow upward. Lagoon is created between the top of the reef and the sinking island.

Atoll
Island sinks/erodes below sea level, reef continue to grow upward. If a broken circle of reef, it is likely due to storm action.

Coastal Geomorphology
Landforms: Tombolo Tombolo

A narrow piece of land between the shore and an island, or between two islands. Forms because wave refraction around islands causes sand and sediment to build up in a linear formation where the waves meet (around the backside of the island).

Goat Rock Beach, CA

Coastal Geomorphology
Landforms: Wave-cut Arches & Platforms
Wave-cut Arches
Formed by wave action which erodes less-resistant rock from an outcrop.

Wave-cut Platforms
Formed after waves hit against a cliff face, causing undercutting. Most obvious at low tide when they become visible as huge areas of flat rock. An extreme environment (for marine life) because of continual wave action. PLATFORM

ARCH

Deserts & Arid Geomorphology

Concepts

Locations Typical Conditions (4) Principal Forces (2) Landforms

Alluvial Fan/Bajada Inselberg Playa Buttes, Pinnacles, Mesas Dunes

Deserts & Arid Geomorphology

Locations
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Desert & Arid Geomorphology

4 Typical Conditions

Sparse cover of vegetation and soil

Bedrock is exposed

Impermeable surface layers

This increases the erosion potential of rainstorms!

Rain is infrequent, but short-lived & intense

Causes dry streambeds to fill quickly & flow rapidly Flash flooding = fast erosion!

Interior drainage = centripetal

Ephemeral streams flow to the bottom of basin Alluvium is deposited and water evaporates, sometimes leaving behind a salt layer

Deserts & Arid Geomorphology

Principal Forces for Erosion

1. Water

Water may be scarce, but rain/thunderstorms are often intense. Rivers or floodwaters cut into the landscape, often creating canyons.

2. Wind

Often removes sand/silt from areas, exposing bedrock to the erosional power of water.

Desert & Arid Geomorphology

Landforms: Alluvial Fan

Alluvial Fan

When streams come out of steep canyons

the velocity of the stream drops dramatically, and the slope of the river decreases. Therefore, alluvium is deposited! Edges of the fans may be clearly defined.

Bajadas are formed when multiple alluvial fans join along a mountain front

Desert & Arid Geomorphology

Landforms: Inselbergs & Playas

Inselberg

Isolated hill/ridge, steep-sided Formed when less-resistant material is eroded away from more-resistant rock (often an intrusive formation). Example: Uluru (Ayers Rock), AU

Playa

Dry lake bed Found at lowest point of basin Recognizable by dried mud, often covered w/ crust of salt

Desert & Arid Geomorphology

Landforms: Pinnacles, Buttes, Mesas
Pinnacles

Isolated hill with steep sides and pointed or flat top Caprock (resistant) remains while softer rock is eroded away Typical of southwest U.S.

Buttes

Larger than a pinnacle, flat top Example: Chimney Rock, NE

Mesas

Larger than a butte, smaller than a plateau. Flat top.

Desert & Arid Geomorphology

Landforms: Sand Dunes

Shape & formation depends on

Amount of sand available Persistence & direction of wind Presence of vegetation

With little vegetation: can be movement over time

4 main shapes

Barchan Transverse Longitudinal Blowout

Desert & Arid Geomorphology

Landforms: Sand Dunes

Barchan

Limited supply of loose sand Crescent-shaped Horn points downwind Wind blows constantly in a single direction Migrates downwind over long time

Which way is the wind blowing?

Desert & Arid Geomorphology

Landforms: Sand Dunes

Transverse

Less uniform than Barchan More supply of loose sand Maintains general crescent shape Usually forms interconnected ridges of sand

Desert & Arid Geomorphology

Landforms: Sand Dunes

Longitudinal

a.k.a. Seif Wind directions shifts back & forth Long parallel ridges

Egypt

Desert & Arid Geomorphology

Landforms: Sand Dunes

Blowout

Wind erosion Scoops out sand and rock, creating closed depressions Depressions may fill with water