Nikon D200 Sensor Cleaning

Nikon D200 Sensor Cleaning / Nikon D200 Sensor Cleaning
http://www.climaxphoto.com/nikon_d200_sensor_cleaning.html#pecpads
Search
Join Our Mailing List Email:
Go
Nikon D-200 Sensor Cleaning

Brought to you by:
There are many methods and products available to the photography community for Nikon D200 Sensor Cleaning. Below are articles, from expert photographers, on Nikon D200 Sensor Cleaning and Sensor Cleaning in general.
Below on the left you can see the Nikon D200's lens mount with the mirror down, on the right with mirror up and shutter open (exposing the Nikon D200 Sensor).
...Sensor cleaning is not much different with the Nikon D200 than previous DSLRs, though there's plenty of "landing space" for SENSOR SWABS on one side of the imaging area. Nikon disclaims all but blower bulb cleaning. You can get to the sensor area by using a menu-based mirror lockup function if you have a FULL Nikon D200 Review by Thom BATTERY, but be careful about that -- the camera comes with a failsafe: if the Hogan battery goes below a certain level you'll get an audible warning and the shutter will close shortly thereafter. There's been at least one report of someone not getting that warning. Always use a freshly charged battery, and don't dally in your cleaning...
1 of 11
03.08.2006 13:16
Cleaning the Sensor by Neil Niekerk
It's an inescapable fact of life that dust will eventually plague your digital images .. and life's just too short to fritter it away cloning out dust spots from your images. It's much easier, (though more nerve-wracking), to clean the digital sensor of your camera. You have two choices .. 1. Using the Mirror Lock-Up option in the Set-Up Menu, but for this you would need one of the Nikon AC Adapters for your camera, such as the Nikon EH-5 AC Adapter for the D100. This costs you extra money, and you also risk the mirror and shutter coming down while you're cleaning the CCD should there be a power interruption. (Unless you invest in a Uninterruptible Power Supply.) I had an unfortunate event where for some reason the shutter of my one D100 body closed on the PEC-PAD I was using to clean the CCD with, and the shutter curtain popped out of its rail. I managed to flex it back in again and fortunately the shutter curtain was undamaged and had no kinks in it. That D100 has since worked without a problem for the past year .. but this is the reason I sold my EH-5 adapter, and settled for the following method of cleaning my CCD .. 2. You can set your camera to Manual mode and to a shutter speed of 30 seconds, and then be very careful that you take much less than 30 seconds at a time while cleaning your CCD. If not, then the mirror and shutter curtain is going to come down on your sensor swabs. This option isn't ideal either - you need to be very careful and clean your CCD with a series of actions where you trip the shutter and proceed to clean the CCD in much less than 30 seconds, and repeat this until you're done. Alternately, you can set your camera to Bulb and lock the shutter with a remote release. This will give you all the time you need to clean your CCD, unless there is a glitch and the electronic release malfunctions or the mechanical release slips .. it might be a costly way of doing it. ;-) What I use to clean my CCD .. I use CO2 gas cannisters from American Recorder Technologies to blow dust off my CCD. The CO2 cannisters supposedly don't contain any propellant or impurities that could make marks on my CCD, but I've had problems with some kind of oily (?) residue being sprayed onto my lenses or CCD when I use these cannisters at full blast when they're still full. So be advised to be careful anyway. For stubborn dust spots that won't come off with a gentle blast of air, I also use ECLIPSE. This is manufactured by Photographic Solutions, which also makes SENSOR SWABS. The SENSOR SWABS & PEC-PADS are non-abrasive and lint-free. I have tried a Spec Grabber tool, but only ended up leaving streaks on my CCD, which I then had to carefully get rid of with the ECLIPSE and SENSOR SWABS.
Cleaning Your Sensor by Thom Hogan
"Are those spots you're seeing, or have the dreaded dust bunnies inhabited your camera?" ...this article applies to all Nikon-based digital SLR bodies (D1, D1h, D1x, D2h, D2x, D70, D100, S1, S2, S3, 14n, 14nx, and SLR/n). It probably also applies to other DSLRs, as well, but since I don't own (many of) them I won't speak to applicability...
2 of 11
03.08.2006 13:16
....SENSOR SWABS: the original SENSOR SWABS had a fatal flaw--the support mechanism behind the cleaning cloth was not reliable and allowed the edge of the cleaning surface to "break" (bend and reduce pressure, making it not clean well). Moreover, the support mechanism was relatively thick, and if damaged, could produce little plastic pieces that you had to clean up. No more. Photographic Solutions has produced a new version that has a full, thin, plastic "blade" behind the cleaning material. It's now possible to maintain even pressure across the edge without it collapsing, even when very wet. The blade itself is a very soft plastic and can't really be forced hard enough to damage a sensor or filter surface. While you can't quite put as much pressure on the edge as with homemade tools, that's a good thing in most ways. The one problem it may create is for some so-called "welded dust" particles (see note at end of article). But this is easily solved by making the SENSOR SWAB wetter than usual--which might leave streaks that you have to clean up by using another swab). On the plus side versus the home-grown method is that the SENSOR SWABS are still made in a clean-room environment and come in sealed packs. Thus, they're ready to go on demand but you won't be having to worry about keeping your cleaning materials clean as you try to wrap them around a home-grown support mechanism. Yes, they're on the pricey side (US$48 for 12), but you won't be using a lot of them because of the other new tool that's available. Basically, you only use a SENSOR SWAB when you have a persistent dust particle that isn't removed by brush, or you have welded dust. Nikon and Fujifilm users need Type 2 Sensor Swabs; Kodak Pro 14n, 14nx, and SLR/n users need Type 3 SENSOR SWABS. ...By the way, itll probably take you a few tries with the SENSOR SWABS to get it right. The usual mistakes I see from first-timers are: Too much liquid is used, and a streak is left behind. You dont start at one edge of the sensor and swipe past the other edge, leaving dust at both edges. Swiping too gingerly, which tends to leave behind a few stubborn spots (and may even make them more stubborn). Not holding the support nearly perpendicular to the filter (I use a very slight tilt towards the side I'm moving towards), or lifting one side and leaving dust on the filter on that side. Trying to rub the filter clean (you tend to just move the dust around--once it is on the lint-free cloth, it can migrate back to the CCD if you use improper technique, such as not enough fluid, or rubbing motions; moreover, if you "rub" a really hard particle across the filter you can scratch it). Doing the cleaning in an environment where there is lots of dust in the air! Here's a couple of added tips for cleaning: Get a headlamp. The Petzl LED headlamps work great, though you look like a geek using one to clean your camera. Using a headlamp lets you put light right where you need it, and even makes it easier to see the largest dust bunnies, if any. Minimize the time. Because the Bayer filters in DSLRs use dye inks, I try to keep the amount of time they're exposed to light, especially bright light, to a minimum. That's not to scare you into thinking that if you leave your CCD exposed for five minutes that it'll produce poor color next time you use it; just that light accumulation to dye inks really should be minimized. If you clean in a darkish environment using an LED headlamp and don't take more than a few minutes, don't worry about it. But don't leave the camera's shutter open while you walk around the house or office looking for your cleaning supplies, decide to have lunch, watch a football game, and then come back and clean your camera! (Besides, the longer you leave the shutter mechanism open, the more dust gets into the box that you'll eventually have to clean out.) Don't try to see it. A photosite on most DSLR bodies is about 64 square microns. You could fit several hundred photosites onto this hyphen: -. Thus, a dirt particle that covers a photosite or two can be very small--essentially invisible to the naked eye. That's one reason why I discourage use of the Speckgrabber to clean CCDs--you can only see the really big stuff.
3 of 11
03.08.2006 13:16
Cleaning the Sensor on a Canon D60
From gregscott.com: I would prefer that dSLR manufacturers provide and/or document more effective ways to clean dirty sensors. I suspect that low level support technicians may give strident warnings that are factually untrue, because the individual doesn't really know what works, and the company doesn't want to asssume responsibility for the user performing this procedure, because if its complexity and moderate difficulty. Warning: All my reading say not to use compressed air. The propellents chill the air, and the moisture from condensation can cause problems. Also, you can blow hard enough to damage the camera.... By Bob Atkins at photo.net: Do you have dust on your DSLR sensor? Have you seen any dark spots on your images. If the answer is no, your best course of action may be to ignore the rest of this article and be happy. If you have an EOS 10D, 300D, D60, D30, 1D or 1Ds or any other digital SLR from Nikon or another manufacturer, then sooner or later you will probably feel the urge to clean the sensor.... From The Luminous Landscape: There comes a day when every DSLR owner looks at a 100% magnification of one of their images in Photoshop and gasps, "Where did that dust come from?" Nasty out of focus blobs. Squiggly little dust motes. Hairs. Uggh. As scary as it may seem there is nothing for it but to clean the camera's sensor. It really isn't that tough to do, but you do need the right tools and approach. Here is the method and the supplies that I use. Work slowly. Work carefully. Use the right supplies and you should have no problem.... By Thom Hogan: It happens to all of us: eventually you'll find an image that, on close inspection, seems to have gotten the freckles (see example, below). No, you don't have bad photosites on your CCD, you have dust on the sensor filter. Don't go trying to eyeball the dust on your CCD, though. Most small spots that show up on your lens are not visible to the naked eye. Yes, it doesn't take a giant glob of dirt to make your camera exhibit the dreaded spots--itsy bitsy dust particles can be just as annoying.... By Moose Peterson: There are two main causes for having spots in your digital images. The main one is that dust is naturally attracted to the CCD. The second is that small metal slivers are created each time you change lenses and end up residing in the bottom of your mirror box. (This especially occurs when the camera body is new.) The first big step in keeping it clean is to do everything you can to prevent these two elements from reaching your CCD.... By Nicholas R.: I've owned my D1X for 2 years now and in the first couple of months, I went through a parade of devices and techniques which purported to get rid of the "dust bunnies". If you are reading this now, you probably know that the Nikon CCD is a fabulous dust magnet which needs to be cleaned regularly. I don't own a Canon, but the low-pass (anti-aliasing) filter on the CMOS is of similar material and it too collects dust when the sensor is charged.... From pixelpixel.org: Cleaning muck of the sensor is one of those problems that concerns new D30/D60 owners. Canon advise using only air blowers or sending it to them for cleaning. The digicam forums are spattered with reports from owners who've sent their camera to Canon and have it returned even dirtier than it started. I did send my D30 to Canon for cleaning; the sensor did not come back any worse, but it did not come back clean. So now I do it myself, not often, I've done it, perhaps, six times in the 18 months I've had the D30. If you take care, have a clear working area and good lighting, you should have no trouble. Of course, the decision to clean the sensor is yours, don't come whining to me, if you make a mistake.... From plantneil.com: It's an inescapable fact of life that dust will eventually plague your digital images .. and life's just too short to fritter it away cloning out dust spots from your images. It's much easier, (though more nerve-wracking), to clean the CCD of your camera.... From Toldeo-Bend.com: I had read about it and I checked my camera... sure enough, the image sensor was dirty. I tried some canned air - very gently. It didn't help a bit. I knew it needed to be cleaned. I was also aware that having the factory clean it was going to be somewhat expensive... but, worse yet, I'd probably be without my camera for 3 - 4 weeks. I didn't like that prospect... or paying Canon to clean it.... From PictureLineNews.com: Digital Single Lens Reflex (DSLR) users, have you ever been plagued by sky cooties, UFOs, or other undesirables imbedded in your digital images? Unless you are attempting to convince the Federal Government that alien space travel exists, the specks and blobs are not welcome. From the number of people I have spoken with, a dirty sensor is not an uncommon situation. So let me inquire, have you had the pleasure of cleaning your camera sensor?... Cleaning instructions from FujiFilm. From planetneil.com: "It's an inescapable fact of life that dust will eventually plague your digital images .. and life's just too short to fritter it away cloning out dust spots from your images. It's much easier, (though more nerve-wracking), to clean the digital sensor of your camera...." From passionforpixels.com: "Well my sensor swabs arrived from B&H and my fluid from Nulab. I read the instruction on the web site and got down to it. First attempt, swipe as directed, take shot of sky, check for dust. Arghhhh, it's now way, way, way worse than when I started. Some of the old dust spots still seem to be there, and now there's about 50 new ones. Most are where I turned the swab around. OK, swab again. Check again ...."
Cleaning the CMOS Sensor of the Canon EOS 10D (and other digital SLRs)
Understanding the Digital SLR Sensor Cleaning
Cleaning Your CCD (or why you might want to eat at Wendys)
CCD Cleaning
CCD/CMOS Cleaning
Sensor Cleaning
Cleaning the CCD of your Nikon D100
Cleaning the CCD or CMOS Image Sensor Chip in a Digital Camera
Digital Camera Sensor Cleaning
Cleaning your Fujifilm Pro S2 Image Sensor
Cleaning the sensor
Sensor Cleaning - My Experience
4 of 11
03.08.2006 13:16
Sensor Brush, Sensor Clean help keep your pictures dust-free
By Ron Galbraith: "Finally! A digital SLR sensor cleaner that really works. The Sensor Brush and its companion Sensor Clean liquid/swab combo, from Canadian company Visible Dust, are the first products of their type weve used that can remove dust, dirt and other particles effectively with little chance of either streaking or scratching of the cover glass over the image sensor. Weve been cleaning our arsenal of digital SLR cameras since mid-summer with Visible Dusts new products and couldnt be more pleased with the results..." By photo.box.sk: "Digital Single Lens Reflex (DSLR) users, have you ever been plagued by sky cooties, UFOs, or other undesirables imbedded in your digital images? Unless you are attempting to convince the Federal Government that alien space travel exists, the specks and blobs are not welcome. From the number of people I have spoken with, a dirty sensor is not an uncommon situation. So let me inquire, have you had the pleasure of cleaning your camera sensor?..." "There comes a time when your Nikon will need a CCD cleaning. If you keep your CCD clean you wont have to worry about dirty photos. See the spots? Thats sensor grunge! Yep, bits of almost microscopic gunk that get stuck on the CCD surface. These are most visible when you use a small aperture, and can be quite intrusive. Sure you can get rid of them using your image editing software but what a time killer that is. I dont know about you but I want to spend more time OUTDOORS, not more time on the computer! ..." From ClubSNAP: "If you are a DSLR user, you will probably know that your camera CCD sensors actually collect dust when the sensors are charged. Like most other DSLR camera owners, when I first found that my camera (a humble Fujifilm S1 Pro) was plagued with dust (see sample pictures below) I threw my hands in the air and ran around the house going crazy. The specks of dust were pretty stubborn, clinging on to the CCD even after I used my entire arsenal of blowers..."
Digital Camera Sensor Cleaning
Nikon CCD Cleaning
Step-by-step DIY CCD Cleaning
Sensor Swabs Types 1, 2 & 3
PEC-PAD is NOT recommended for cleaning the CCD. It is not the same material used in the SENSOR SWABS. We do not approve or warranty the CCD or any camera part from any damage caused by using non approved products. Note: Cleaning the sensor has gotten to become a necessity. You now have many choices for sensor cleaning. Please review these choices and the companies behind them very carefully.
SENSOR SWABS are designed for cleaning CCD chips and other delicate or hard to reach optical and imagi surfaces. Clean room manufactured and sealed, these swabs are the ultimate in puri Although these items are not officially approved by Nikon or Canon, several digital imaging site message boards ha threads discussing the need for cleaning these cameras, and the success with using these products. Read instructions first and call us if you have questions - before proceeding. When used as directed these products are ea to use and safe and yield excellent resul Question: How do I clean a D-SLR Low Pass Filter?
Answer from Nikon: Cleaning the Filter with an Imaging Sensor Cleaning Liquid Some companies list no phone ..."There are various types of imaging sensor cleaning products available that may include a liquid cleaner together w number or other contact info other imaging sensor wipes. It is possible that these liquids can be used, but as stated above the low-pass filter is extreme than an email address. None have delicate and easily damaged"...see Guarantee Below: the backing of any camera CCD Sensor Guarantee : manufacturer. Photographic Solutions, Inc. guarantees that its SENSOR SWAB and ECLIPSE products will cause no damage to the None have bothered to submit their CCD or CMOS sensor when used in accordance with the instructions provided by the camera manufacturer and/or product to any manufacturer to Photographic Solutions, Inc. (PSI) If it is determined that these products caused physical damage to the sensor, PSI w test. None offer live tech support or reimburse thecamera owner for the full cost of repairs upon presentation to PSI of proof of purchase, camera other help. manufacturer's repair invoice and the damaged sensor. Use of non-approved methods, procedures or products will vo this warranty. This warranty will cover any camera whether or not that manufacturer recommends our products or no None state the conditions under and is good in any country. which their products are made. None have been selling swabs for SENSOR SWABS Camera Compatability Chart as long! One company even claims they were the first with cleaning Camera Mfg. Model products - they did not exist in Kodak DCS 2003 !!!! Fuji S1, S2 & S3 Canon 1D, 1-D Mark II SENSOR SWAB Cleaning Procedure Sigma SD-10 / Foveon X3 Camera Mfg. Nikon Model Nikon D1/h/x, Nikon D100, Nikon D70, Nikon D50, Nikon D200, Nikon D2H, Nikon D2Hs, Nikon D2X D30 & D60, Canon 10-D/20-D, Rebel XT / 350D, Rebel 300D 7D, 5D E-1
Canon
Konica Minolta Olympus
5 of 11
03.08.2006 13:16
Pentax Camera Mfg. Canon Kodak Leica
*ist D, *ist DS Model 1Ds, EOS 5D Full Frame Sensor 14n, SLR/n, SLR/c Digital Modul-R
Fuji recommends Eclipse and Sensor Swabs for cleaning their S1, S2 & S3 Digital Pro Cameras! S1 Acrobat File (204 kb) from Fuji S2 Acrobat File (251 kb) from Fuji "SENSOR SWAB is recommended by LEICA CAMERA AG for cleaning the LEICA S1 CCD chip" (when used without liquid) SENSOR SWAB Type 1 is recommended by Eastman Kodak Company for cleaning the DCS family of digital cameras when used with ECLIPSE Optic Cleaner (sold separately). SENSOR SWABS are also ideal for cleaning other recessed imaging surfaces. Answers to the most commonly asked SENSOR SWABS questions Why are these swabs so expensive ? What are they made of Gol SENSOR SWABS are manufactured by hand in a clean room environment. We have not yet found a way to mach make them that will be any less expensive than they are no Why cant PEC-PAD be used to make my own swab? Why is your warranty voided if a PEC-PAD is used clean a sensor The swab material is NOT the same as the PEC-PAD material. PEC-PAD was never tested by us or any camera sensor manufacturer so we do not know if it will be safe to use. We cannot be responsible for sensor damage when t PEC-PADs are handled, cut and folded by the end user. Handling the PEC-PADs will allow airborne residues contaminate the PEC-PAD; cutting them will destroy the bonding and allow loose strands to get stuck in the sens baffle. We have had a few reports that users have caused damaged to sensors after attempting to save a few dollars making their own cleaning wands; we have also heard that many folks do this with success. We also know that som folks clean their sensor using a strip of adhesive tape! To each his ow Who recommends the SENSOR SWAB Currently the swabs are officially recommended by Eastman Kodak, Leica and Fuj We also list many individuals, well-known and not-so-well-known who endorse the SENSOR SWAB and ECLIPS method. Other manufacturers have varying policies regarding what materials should or should not be use Note: A manufacturer may choose not to publicly have their name listed for any number of reasons, usually to avo liability if they recommend a procedure and the user causes damage. Our products are safe on ALL camera makes a models when the directions and common sense are used. Please see our Guarantee for the deta What is the difference between Types 1, 2, and Size matters. Type 1 is 20mm in width. Type 2 is 17mm and Type 3 is 24m Why not print this information directly on the swab box As new cameras are introduced, this information will change often several times per month. The info if printed on t box would become outdated often and quick What about the other cleaning methods discussed on the internet and digital camera forum There are many other methods available for sensor cleaning and these are described and sold on the internet. So people are willing to try and save money by using a piece of tape to clean; or by making their own re-usab hand-made swabs. Many report great success. A few do not and face repairs of $700. or more! The choice is up to ea camera own
MSDS - Word MSDS - Adobe Acrobat Traveling by air with ECLIPSE: Technically, the regulations allow some exemptions for small amounts - usually ounce or less (about 7 mL) . The items referred to in the regulations are for such things as small butane lighters, and some medical items. Strictly speaking the regulations seem to prohibit things like cleaning solvents, especially in volumes greater For CCD & CMOS ECLIPSE lens cleaner is the highest purity lens cleaner available, containing less than 5 parts per million (ppm) of contamination (the whitish residue left after evaporation) It dries as quickly as it can be applied leaving absolutely no residue, making it the only recommended cleaner for CCD and CMOS sensor cleaning when used with SENSOR SWABS. When used with PEC-PAD photo wipes, ECLIPSE is also safe and ideal for lens and filter cleaning. For lenses & other optics When used with PEC-PAD photo wipes, it is possible to clean only the portion of lens which is dirty eliminating "hazy swirls". Dispense several drops onto a clean, folded PEC-PAD and lightly wipe surface in a single direction. Refold PEC-PAD to expose a clean side and re-wipe as necessary. Other lens tissues may not work as well, and some experimentation may be required. Each box contains a 59 ml. (2 fl. oz.) bottle with dropper applicator.
6 of 11
03.08.2006 13:16
than the allowable ounce. In many cases, I have been ECLIPSE is the recommended optical glass cleaner for Tokina Hoya Kenko USA, the US distributor for Hoya filters allowed to carry bottles of and Tokina lenses. either product with no problem, but I have heard Used by Hassleblad USA from many photographers who had these items removed from "Leica Camera AG recommends ECLIPSE Optic Cleaner and SENSOR SWAB Type 3 for cleaning the sensor of the their carry-on. LEICA DIGITAL-MODUL-R" Putting these materials in your Read a discussion on Leica Camera's Forum: DMR SENSOR CLEANING about using ECLIPSE and SENSOR checked luggage may put you SWABS at risk for violating the law, and the penalties are quite Fuji recommends ECLIPSE and SENSOR SWABS for cleaning their S1, S2 & S3 Digital Pro Cameras! stiff $250,000! S1 PDF instructions from Fuji *It is recommended you arrange to acquire these items at your destination. Remember - we are open 24/7 at this online store and will ship UPS Next Day Air at your request. S2 PDF instructions from Fuji PEC-PAD is not recommended for cleaning the CCD. It is not the same material used in the SENSOR SWABS. We do not approve or warranty the CCD or any camera part from any damage caused by using non-approved products.
PEC-PADs are the ideal photo wipes for those who hate photowipes! Until PEC-PADs came along, photowipes fell apart, left lint and scratched emulsions. PEC-PADs are extremely strong, lint-free and so soft and pure (99.999%) it is almost impossible to scratch an emulsion with them. PEC-PADs are so soft they can be safely used to clean all types of sensitive surfaces : scanners, CD's, mirrors, lenses, telescopes etc. When PEC-PADs are used with PEC-12, they are ideally suited for cleaning photographic film and print emulsions. PEC-PADs are available in two convenient sizes. The 4 x 4 inch (10 cm.sq.) wipes are
Question: What Are PEC-PADs? Answer: PEC-PADs are a unique blend of fibers especially designed for photographic applications. PEC-PADs are smooth and soft . . . making them nonabrasive, strong and lint free. Our pads are better than 99.999% contaminant free! PEC-PADs come in two sizes: 1O cm (4") square for small cleaning jobs (such as 35mm format) and 23cm (9") square for cleaning larger areas (medium and large format, prints, murals etc.) Question: On What Can You Use PEC-PADs? PEC-PAD is NOT recommended for cleaning the CCD. It is not the same material used in the SENSOR SWABS. PSI does not approve or warranty the CCD or any camera part from any damage caused by using non approved products. Answer: PEC-PADs can be safely used on all hardened photographic emulsions, including films and papers. Extreme care must be used with 35mm chromogenic film, as the base of these films are very easily scratched. PEC-PADs can also be used on coated or uncoated photographic lenses, binoculars and telescopes without scratching delicate coatings. With care, PEC-PADs are safe to clean plexiglass and are ideal for cleaning picture frames, glass, CD's etc.! How to use PEC-PADs. Put the image to be cleaned onto a sheet of glass (light table) or onto the emulsion side of a clean old scrap RC print. Spray a few drops of PEC-12 onto a clean PEC-PAD. With the gentle pressure of two or three extended fingers. start at the far end of the film/print to be cleaned, and smoothly move your fingers toward you in a straight line removing contaminants from the emulsion by transferring them to the PEC-PAD. Extremely grimy stains (such as laser separation oil) may need a second or even a third pass (taking care to use a clean PEC-PAD and additional PEC-12). Any material applied with enough pressure will ultimately cause scratches, but normal, prudent use of PEC-PADs will provide scratch free cleaning of slides, negatives and prints. REMEMBER: When cleaning with PEC-12 PHOTOGRAPHIC EMULSION CLEANER, one pass with very light pressure will clean nonwater-based stains. If one light pass doesn't appear to have an effect on a stain, it may be waterbased and further rubbing will not help, and may damage an emulsion. When cleaning areas which are heavily soiled (laser separation oil, heavy ink marks etc.), use more than one PEC-PAD to avoid smearing the stain. You may rotate the PEC-PAD to expose a clean area and thus clean several images before discarding. For detailed tips on cleaning refer to the PEC-12 section.
7 of 11
03.08.2006 13:16

perfect for cleaning 35mm and other small areas; the 9 x 9 inch (25 cm.sq.) wipes are best suited for larger film or print formats, murals, scanners etc.
Features & Benefits Photographic Solutions BRUSHOFF Brush is unique in the digital cleaning world. BRUSHOFF is unlike any other sensor brush on the market. The BRUSHOFF design evolved from a NASA design and engineered to meet their rigorous requirements and specifications. It is not just an ordinary artist supply brush with a fancy name and high price tag! Hold the BRUSHOFF and one instantly can see this is a solidly designed and built electronic tool utilizing science to produce unparalleled cleaning power! Although the brush head is remarkably soft, the brush core is entirely electronically conductive, through an ingeniously designed grounding plug. BRUSHOFF is conductive because the dust and lint that attaches to the sensor or lens surface is attached there electronically (dust has a negative charge and the sensor/ lens a positive one). Breaking that electronic bond is the only way to both remove the debris and discharge the sensor or lens surface so new particles are not again immediately attracted to it. A mere artist brush cannot clean all of the dust, nor can it prevent dust accumulation, even immediately after its use. To draw a parallel, the sensor surface is much like the face of a computer monitor. The dust is very hard to wipe off with a dry cloth. The result of trying is better described as dust rearrangement rather than dust removal. Use BRUSHOFF prove it to yourself - a conductive brush can, if it is grounded, brush the dirt cleanly off the computer screen just as it will off your sensor. No longer attracted, the dust easily falls off. As the amount of charge (and therefore the amount of attraction) on either the sensor or the dust is unknown, using a fiber with a predetermined amount of positive charge hoping to electronically vacuum up the debris, may or may not remove all of the dust particles. It will remove particles when the fibers positive charge is greater than the sensors positive charge. The only way to always remove all of the particles clinging to the sensor is by discharging both the sensor and the particles. Then, and only then, can you be certain of having a clean sensor that electronically wants to remain clean. BRUSHOFFs unique blend of extremely fine fibers, softer than a ladys blush brush, provides not only a conductive path, but includes fibers with characteristics that make the debris want to mechanically cling to them. The debris is removed from the camera with the brush. BRUSHOFF utilizes an especially designed micro-scopically fine special filament. This fiber acts as the "vacuum" to pick up negatively charged dust from the positively charged sensor. Another feature found only on BRUSHOFF is the grounding plug which works because it provides a path to ground for the charges on both the debris and the sensor. While normally a human can briefly serve as a ground for small charges, in fact, if the human is ungrounded, the body electronically acts like a capacitor, not a ground. The human body can also be a lightening bolt to the sensor if it has a static charge. Just walking across the carpet on a dry day, a person can generate a 30,000v charge (that is what causes the spark between your finger and the doorknob). The grounding plug insures that, regardless of any charges around it, the brush is grounded and electronically neutral. The plastic handle itself is a non-conductor which isolates the human from the brush. This allows the brush to be used in the field, away from any grounding source until one can locate a ground and discharge the BRUSHOFF. Cleaning it is also quite simple. Use a clean PEC-PAD & ECLIPSE to wipe the bristles before your first use. A moistened towelette is provided with each BRUSHOFF. Be sure your fingers do not touch any of the PEC-PAD that will come in contact with the unique and patented fibre materials. If brush should become contaminated, simple saturate a PEC-PAD with ECLIPSE Optic Cleaner and gently wipe bristles. Air dry for a few seconds and replace protective cap being sure cap itself has not become contaminated. To further protect the BRUSHOFF fibers, they are fully retractable into the handle when not in use and a protective cap is also supplied. Heres a great way to test the BRUSHOFF : On your TV screen or monitor, which is probably covered with dust First, turn off the screen so you have a dark background against which to see. Then, carefully blow on a corner of the screen (using your breath rather than canned air) ..... the dust seems glued in place.
8 of 11
03.08.2006 13:16
Now use the Brush Off in that same corner ..... Dust is easily removed but a few bits will likely remain. Now carefully blow on those few bits. The dust is easily blown away!!!! BRUSHOFF has removed the static charge and the dust practically falls off. Imagine this effect on your CCD!!!!! Summary : designed in conjunction with and engineered to NASA specs unique blend of fibers designed to neutralize charged dust particles AND to neutralize the sensor surface to prevent further dust attraction detachable grounding cable retractable shaft to protect brush when not in use protective cap insulated handle the brush barrel is its own solid carrying case very competitively priced not just a high-priced artist brush and most importantly : backed by the company that invented sensor cleaning in 1998 - Photographic Solutions, Inc. Expertise you can count on. Remember no other company has any sensor cleaning product which is officially recommended by any camera manufacturer. We have over half a dozen, and counting! IMPORTANT: In some cameras, the baffle is covered by a fine oily residue which is used as a lubricant. If any of the BRUSHOFF bristles come in contact with this residue, it will cause smearing on your sensor. Avoiding the baffle altogether is next to impossible. Thorough cleaning of the brush will be needed using ECLIPSE and PEC-PAD. If oil transfers to the sensor, from the brush, use the correct size SENSOR SWAB and ECLIPSE to clean.
Used and recommended by Leaf Systems. "Leaf Systems promotes the use of the new e-wipe from Photographic Solutions on our digital cameras. This one-step procedure is the easiest and safest way to keep the CCD clean." Used and recommended by PhaseOne. MSDS - Word MSDS - Adobe Acrobat "E-Wipes work. They really do! Get factory clean results in the field." Ken Boydston, President, MegaVision. Read the Article "Digital Cameras Face the Sixteen Megapixel Challenge" which highlights comments from Ken Boydston, President, MegaVision. Safe for use on monochrome CCD's, scanners, optical mirrors and other sensitive electronic and photographic image-forming surfaces when used as directed. e-wipe combines an ultra pure lint-free wipe and a precise pre-measured amount of an ultra-pure, highly refined alcohol mixture. This convenient packaging prevents over useage and contamination which can destroy an expensive component. As originally sealed, this packet contains not more than 5 parts per million of contaminants and when used, will dry instantly leaving absolutely no residue! To use, tear open a packet at notch and remove wipe. With a gentle flick of the wrist, the pad will unfold. This should be done with one hand to minimize handling. Lightly wipe across the surface to be cleaned in a single direction only. Do not go over a previously cleaned area with the same wipe, or re-use a wipe at any time, as the dirt collected can cause severe damage. Recommended by manufacturers of digital cameras, scanners and other devices with critical cleaning requirements. This product meets or exceeds SEMI standards. Not for use with Dye-On CCD chip.
Pec-12 removes almost everything from emulsions! Pec-12 is safe on all types of film Pec-12 dries instantly
9 of 11
03.08.2006 13:16
Pec-12 is sold in 4 oz ($9.50) and 1 Quart ($57.00) Pec-12 MSDS Sheet - Word Pec-12 MSDS Sheet - Adobe Acrobat
Since 1983, PEC-12, Photographic Emulsion Cleaner has been trusted by the world's most prestigious photographers, labs, museums and publishers. Not only does PEC-12 routinely save many of their most valuable images, but it is the ONLY archival cleaner available. What good is cleaning an image today, only to have the emulsion slowly deteriorate over time? PEC-12 is a non-water based film and print cleaner which removes virtually all non-water based stains from color and B&W slides, negatives and prints (including Cibachrome). PEC-12 removes grease pencil, adhesive residue, finger oils, ball-point pen, fungus, smoke & soot damage, laser separation oil and most permanent inks. Containing no water, PEC-12 dries instantly with no emulsion swelling and leaves no residue. No chemicals are left behind and there are no adverse effects on dye stability. Safe for use on acetates, plastics, and all silver-based films and paper slide material. PEC-12 is available in a convenient 4 ounce pump-spray bottle and a 32 ounce refill. Complete details and instructions are provided at time of purchase. NOTE: Due to the classification of this product, we will ONLY ship within the U. S. & only UPS Ground.
Picture
Product Description
Item Number
Info
MSRP
Climax Price
Buy
NOTE: Due to the classification of this product, we will ONLY ship within the U. S. & only UPS Ground.
PEC-12 Photographic Emulsion Cleaner for color & black and white prints, slides and negatives. Removes ink, finger oils, adhesives, mildew and other non-water based stains. Archival. Should be purchased along with the Pec-Pads below. MSDS Sheet - Word MSDS Sheet - Adobe Acrobat
54181
4 oz.
$11.50
$9.50
54182
1 qt.
$62.00 $57.00
PEC-PADS 4" x 4"
51570
100 sheets
$7.25
$7.25
PEC-PADS 9" x 9"
51572
25 sheets
$7.25
$7.25
PHOTOFINISH (Bottle)
54581
20 oz.
$7.25
$6.95
PHOTOFINISH (Jar )
54580
20 oz.
$7.25
$7.25
SENSOR SWABS (Type 1) Note: ECLIPSE & SENSOR SWABS work together to clean camera CCD chips and should be purchased at the same time See Cleaning Procedure for an illustration of how to use these two products together.
51575
12
$48.00 $43.95
See Camera Chart for Compatability with your camera
10 of 11
03.08.2006 13:16
SENSOR SWABS (Type 2) Note: Eclipse Optical Cleaner & Sensor Swabs work together to clean camera CCD chips and should be purchased at the same time. Nikon D200 Sensor Cleaning Instructions and Precautions See Camera Chart for See Cleaning Procedure for an illustration of how to use Compatability with your camera these two products together. SENSOR SWABS (Type 3) Note: ECLIPSE Optical Cleaner & SENSOR SWABS work together to clean camera CCD chips and should be purchased at the same time See See Cleaning Procedure for an illustration of how to use Camera Chart for these two products together. Compatability with your camera ECLIPSE OPTIC CLEANING SYSTEM Optical cleaning system ideal for all optical mirrors, lenses and filters. dries instantly with no residue. Read a discussion on Leica Camera's Forum: DMR SENSOR CLEANING about using ECLIPSE and SENSOR SWABS 2 oz. cleaner & applicator tip
51576
12
$48.00 $43.95
51577
12
$48.00 $43.95
51578
$8.25
$8.25
BRUSHOFF SENSOR Specially designed to neutralize the static charge on a CCD/CMOS sensor and pull the particles from the surface to the brush. 51579 High Tech Sensor Brush $58.00 $56.00
E-WIPE PROFESSIONAL Cleaning pad for monochrome CCD's, CMOS, scanners, mirrors & other delicate optical surfaces. Absolute purity and residue-free. 51580 24 packets $25.00 $24.95 per box
*Note: the opinions rendered here are independent of ClimaxDigital and ClimaxPhoto and belong to their respective owners.
Hydra Cleaners
Processor Supplies
Archival Storage
Digital Products
Storage Envelopes
Photo Lab Equipment
Photo Lab Accessories
11 of 11
03.08.2006 13:16

Nikon D200 Sensor Cleaning

Transféré par

Informations du document

Copyright

Formats disponibles

Partager ce document

Partager ou intégrer le document

Options de partage

Avez-vous trouvé ce document utile ?

Ce contenu est-il inapproprié ?

Droits d'auteur :

Formats disponibles

Nikon D200 Sensor Cleaning

Transféré par

Droits d'auteur :

Formats disponibles

Nikon D200 Sensor Cleaning / Nikon D200 Sensor Cleaning

Join Our Mailing List Email: