13

THE BEY OF TUNIS.

THE

CAVE DWELLERS
OF

SOUTHERN TUNISIA
RECOLLECTIONS OF A SOJOURN WITH THE

KHALIFA OF MATMATA

TRANSLATED FROM THE DANISH OF

DANIEL BRUUN
BY

A. E. B.

London: W.

THACKER &

CO.,

Creed Lane, E.C.

Calcutta:

THACKER, SPINK, & CO.

1898

\All Rights Reserved']

c <

'

r T

PREFACE
My
journey among the cave dwellers of Southern
I

Tunisia was essentially one of research, since

was
of

entrusted

by Doctor Sophius

Miiller,

Director

the Second Department of the National

Museum,
ethno-

with

the

honourable

task

of

purchasing

graphical objects for the said

museum.
it

On
to
all

submitting this work to the public,

offer

is

incumbent upon me to
those
:

my

sincere

thanks

who
the

afforded

me
of

support and help in

my

travels

Minister

Foreign Affairs,

at

whose recommendation Cubisol, the Danish Consul

in Tunis, addressed himself to the

French Regency,

and ol)tained permission

the

for

me

to travel through

country,

and

nlso

an

escort,

guides,

etc.

Doctor

Miiller

and

Chamberlain
given from

Vedel, the

whose

respective

introductions,

National

Museum and
tions,
tr*

the

Society concerned

with ancient

manuscripts, and addressed to other similar institu-

introduced

me

not only to these, but also

those remarkaljly scientific men,

Gauckler and

619397

vi

PREFACE
Bertlioloii,

Doctor
for

whose friendship

have to thank

much

information and assistance.

Enghxnd's Representative in Tunis,

Drummond
knowcircum-

Hay, may be said to have traced

Tunisia, as, on the
basis

my

path through

of his remarkable

ledge of both individuals and of relative

stances,

he sketched a plan of
required
to

my
in

journey, from

which

make

little

or no deviation.

The

Government

and

officers

El

Arad,

the

officials,

both military and

civilian,

showed me the
in the highest

greatest hospitality, and assisted

me

degree

Colonels Billet and Gousset especially claim

my
its

warmest gratitude.

Much
some
to

of

what

have recorded has been

left in

original form, namely, as letters written

home,
as,

my

wife,

some

to other persons,

for

instance, to the pul)lisher,

Herr Hegel.

have not

altered these lest they

might

lose the fresh impres-

sion under which they were written.

tions were

Several porpul)lication in

composed with a view to

the French journal the Revue Tunisienne, and in

the Parisian mao;azine Le Temr

du Monde.
from
in

The
sources.

illustrations

were
the

obtained

various
Tunis,

Albert,

photographer
to

obligingly allowed
of

me

make
and
I

use of a numl)er
chiefly

photographs,

from which were

drawn
-

the

views
a

of

the

town
camera

of

the

sea

coast.

With

detective

myself

took

some

PREFACE
instantaneous

vii

photographs

on

the

journey

from

Gabes to the mountains, of which a number are

introduced.

Besides

these,

Mr.

Knud Gamborg

has

engraved some
Q-ave

drawings of

my

own.

Mr.

Gauckler also

me

the free use of the sketches

ah-eady published in his Collection Beylicale, from

which were selected the pictures of the villages

the

in

Matmata mountains.

Lastly, from the wife of

I

Consul Henriksen at Sfax

wdiich are reproduced.

received two paintings,

AVhen, in the spring,

Greenland,
I

made an

expedition to

left

my
of

manuscript with

my

friend

Doctor
aflbrded

Kragelund,

Hobro,

who

had already

me
to

his

assistance,

and

gave

him

full

powers

arrange
In

the

somewhat heterogeneous

materials.
as

my

al)sence he corrected the proofs

they came from the press, and has therefore

taken a very
enabled
it

important
be
of

part
in
I

in
its

my
tender

work,

and
form.

to
act

pul)lished

present

For

this

friendship

him

my

warmest thanks.

Daniel Bruun.
November 1894.

Note.
since the

The

fact of three years

having elapsed

Danish original of the Cave Dwellers was

renders
the
letter

published,

form of which the

VlU

PREFACE
traiisLition.

author speaks somewhat unsuitable for

It has

been necessary, therefore, in

also to

many

cases to

modify that form, and

in

omit certain passages

or

the work as being

of

little

no interest to

English readers.

CONTENTS
CHAP.
I.

WITH DRUMMOND HAY IN TUNIS

SUSA

II.

......
.

5
17

III.

FROM SFAX TO GABS

FROM GABS TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS

IV.
V.

RETURN TO GABS

VI. VII.
VIII.

OF THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS AND THEIR INHABITANTS

FROM GABaS TO THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA

.... ....
THE

32 59
93
116 129
152 158

SH0TT8

IX.

OVER AGLAT MERTEBA TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEI.I

X.
XT.

OVER THE MOUNTAINS AND ACROSS THE PLAIN FROM

HADEIJ TO METAMER
197

XII.
XIII.

METAMER AND MEDININ

.... ....

217
233

SOUTHWARDS OVER THE PLAIN TO TATUIN

DUIRAT

XIV.

XV. THE TUAREG

XVI.

BACK TO TUNIS

XVII. TUNIS

SUPPLEMENT
COSTUMES

THE

THE

POSTSCRIPT

...... ..... ..... ...... ......

TRIBES OF TUNISIA
:

243 253

274 285
292

A SYNOPSIS
.

DRESS OF THE COUNTRYWOMEN

324
334

1^

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

THE BEY OF TUNIS

DRUMMOND
SUSA

HAY, BRITISH CONSUL-GENERAL AT TUNIS

TWO KHRUMIR WOMEN

AT SFAX

..... ..... .....

.

Frontispiece

8
13

20
24
25

TOWER

IN

THE VILLAGE OF MENZEL

JEWESSES AT MENZEL

ON THE OASIS OF GABS

28

WASHERWOMEN AT THE JARA BRIDGE

MAP OF SOUTHERN TUNISIA
PLOUGHING
GABS

30
33 37

JEWISH FAMILY IN A CAVE DWELLING IN HADEIJ

CAVES IN MATMATA

43
45 46

A CAVE DWELLING, MATMATA

THE BRIDAL FESTIVITIES

49 59 G2 65

HOLD UP

EXCAVATED STABLE

BERBER WOMAN OF THE VILLAGE OF JUDLIG

A CAVE INTERIOR
FALCONERS

MANSUR
MEDININ

SECTIONS OF DWELLING IN MATMATA

BEDOUIN WOMEN GROUPED BEFORE THEIR HUT

AT GABS
IN

..... ..... .....

ON
xi

.... .... .....

66
t i

100
I

WHERE

LIVED- PLAN

103
112

113
117

THE MOUNTAINS

THE ROAD TO AIN HAMMAM

120

XII

LIST

OF ILLUSTRATIONS
1

REARING

CAMEL WITH CANOPY

THE BRIDE ESCORTED OVER THE MOUNTAINS

FANTASIA

A STREET IN BENI BARKA

MEDININ
DUIRAT
SHENINI

A HALT IN THE DESERT A TUAREG

. .

A TUAREG

...... .... ...... .... ...... ...... ...... ......

TENT
.
.

PAGE

15G
169

176
179

219

224
245 248
251

OF A TRIBAL CHIEF

254
262 289

MOORISH WOMEN IN A STREET IN TUNIS

rv

THE CAVE DWELLERS OF SOUTHERN TUNISIA

CHAPTER
With Drummond Hay

in Tunis

Though
I

the

midday sun

still

shone bright and hot,

in the pleasant

sat at

my

ease

and breathed again

atmosphere of a cool drawing-room, from which the

stilling air

and the

flies

were excluded by closely

drawn
I

Ijlinds.

had just arrived from Tunis by

rail,

over

the scorching hot plain, and past the milky-white

shallow lagoon

known
the

as the
hills

Lake of Tunis.
seemed
to

Be-

yond Goletta

blue

quiver

beneath the rays of the sun, and

my

eyes

were

blinded by the dazzling white walls of the cathedral

standing on

tlie

heights, where, in olden days, Byrsa,

the fortress of Carthage, stood, defying the invader

and the storm.

As we sped over
circular wall,

the

traces

of

the

mighty
I

which formerly enclosed the town,

\i^2r^\i
I

':
,

CAVE DWELLERS

e c

caught a glimpse of a white roof amongst the green

trees of a wood,

and requested
at

tlie

conductor to

stop

the

train

the

English

Consul's

summer

abode.

Down
white

a pretty shady avenue

palace,

walked to the

summer
a

with

its

beautiftd

columned

portico, the finest in all Tunisia.

It
is

proud

name
with

that

my

host

bears,
in
J.

the

name
history

associated

unfailino;

honour
father,

of

Morocco.

His

late

Sir

H.

Drummond Hay,
tically

as England's Representative, prac-

led Morocco's policy during the

past forty

years.

He

represented

Denmark

also,

and under

him

his son

won

his diplomatic spurs.

My

host had invited

me

that

we might

quietly

arrange a plan for

my

intended expedition to visit

the Berber tribes of Tunisia.

I

was aware that

I

in the south-west

mountains

of the Sahara
race such as

should meet with Berbers of a pure

to

are scarcely
excellent

be

found elsewhere.
Consul
for

Our

country's

Representative,
a
it

Cubisol,

had

procured

me

French

permit

the journey, without which

would

l.)e

difficult for

a lonely traveller to visit regions unfrequented

by

Europeans.
In the spring,

Drummoud Hay had made

the greater

a tour

on horseback over
Tunisia
;

part

of

Southern

he was therefore acquainted, not only with


WITH DRUMMOND HAY
the
loc-alitic,

IN

TUNIS
native

but also with several of the

l)c

chiefs

who wouhi

able to assist me.

He

under-

stands the people and their country thoroughly, for

he speaks Arabic like a native, and

versant

is

quite con-

with
of

the the

life,

opinions,

manners,

and

customs
habitants.

in-

His
far

wife

had travelled
wide
with

and
in

him

Morocco when he was

serving
father,

under

his

and

accomto

panied
capital

him
of
also

the
;

Morocco
is

so

she

well
life.

versed in Oriental

Together we traced
the plan of
nev,

my
in

jour-

which,
,

the

ma

after wa rds

followed.
will

Here

I
lUUTISII

DllUMMOND HAY, CONSUL-GKNKUAL AT TUNIS.

not
1

anticipate
relate later
;

what
that
I

shall

only
to

premising

tliis

owe

first

and foremost

Drummond Hay
journey those

the fact of having comprised in

my

regions which no traveller has as yet described.

To

him

was

also afterwards indebted for the elucidation

I

and explanation of what

had seen and heard.

CAVE DWELLERS
Both

my

host and hostess had resided for

many

years

in

Stockhohii,

when Drummond Hay was

attractions for

Consul there.
them, as

The north has great

Drummond
beino-

Hay's mother was a Dane, a

of

Carstensen,

dauohter

the

last

Danish

Consul-General at Tanoier.

England has great

directly

interests in Tunis, not only

on account of the

many

Maltese living

there

under

British

protection,
since

but

also

in-

directly,
in

more

especially
;

the French settled

the

country

it

will

therefore

be

understood
is

that the post of British Representative

confidence.

one of

"

CHAPTER
SUSA
"

A HAPPY

journey

until

our next

meeting,
1

and

may

Allah preserve you from cholera

the

These were

parting

words of

my

friend

Gauckler, Inspector of Antiquities and Arts,

who

bade

me

a last farewell at the Italian railway station

of Tunis.

Numbers

of flaminofoes stalked alomx the shores

of the lagoon, showing like white patches

on the
horizon,

blue-grey expanse of water.

Out on the

where the lake ended,

houses,

could see Goletta's white

line

and beyond them a deep, dark blue

the Mediterranean.

At midday the heat was

reached Ooletta
air

stilling,

but after we

Bay

the sun sank rapidly, and the

grew cooler
entrance

as a little steamer took us through

the

to tlie harbour, past the

homeward-

bound

fishing-boats.

Just at sunset

we reached

our laroe steamer.

To the

north, Carthaoe's white

church on the heights near Marsa appeared on the

horizon, and,
in

the south, the blue mountains of

Hammamlif

CAVE DWELLERS
Amid
the

noisy

whistling

of

the
I

steamer,

mingled with screams and shouts,

board with
finding

tumbled on

my

numerous bundles and packages

at last to the saloon,
us.
I

my way

where a frugal

dinner awaited

Next morning, when

lay
like

went on deck, the coast

I

a Hat, grey stripe ahead of us.

fi-esli

went

forward and enjoyed the

I

sea breeze for which

had

so lono^ed

in

Tunis.

Near the bows of the

of

ship were two dolpliins.

surface of the water

One

them

rose to the

and spouted a stream of spray

orifice

throuoli
auain.

the

little

in

its

head, then

sank

The other then

rose in its turn.

fore part of the

The white bundles on the

deck
rose
face.

now

l)e<'an

to stir into
its

life,

and each

as

it

threw

l)ack

burnous, and showed a dark

his Avhole family.

One Arab had with him

He had

spread a rush mat on which, amongst their numerous

belongings, lay, closely packed, husband, wife (per-

haps wives),

several children
Gfirl

and a large poodle.

rojiuish little

came

to discover

what

was

contemplating.

She was sweet, brown, and

at me,

clean,

and })eeped up

hiding her face the

while

with one Ijand, evidently conscious of wrong-doing.

The

tips of her fingers

and toes were stained red

Soon
after,

with henna, which was not unpleasing.

a closely veiled figure, apparently the mother,

to fetch the little one.
I

came

had just time to perceive

SUS
tliat

she was pretty, as

slie

threw

1)ack a fold of
herself.

her liaik to wrap round

a

lier

child

and

What

charming picture they made as they leant against

1

the bulwarks and gazed towards the land

Upon
On
yet

slope,

quite

near,

lay

Susa

white,

white, everything was white.

the

summit of the
wall,

slope were

some towers

and a crenelated
another

and on the seashore beneath,

lay
shij)

wall.

Below

the

harbour,
;

too

shallow, however, for our

to enter

we had

therefore to

lie

out in the open.

boat took

me

to the quay,
all ages,

where some twenty

black-eyed boys of

with gleaming teeth and

red caps, lay watching for their prey.

As the boat
to
seize

drew alongside, they rushed

luggage.
aside, but,

down
to

my
little

The boatmen attempted

nevertheless, one

push them

caught up

my

handbag,

another

my

umbrella,

and a third

my
me

photographic apparatus.
to
It

There was nothing for

do but to jump ashore and chase the thieves.

was

long

l)cfore

could
lad.
left,

collect

everything

under the charge of one

of smart taps right and

Then, with a couple

my

little

guide and

marched up
lives.

to the Kasba,

where the Commandant

Here are the magazines and barracks, and

I

here, too,

knew

that

should find a

collection

of antiquities.

Susa was originally a Phoenician colony,

and

CAVE DWELLERS
tlie

played no small part in

called
it

Punic Wars.
it

Trajan

"

Hadrumetum," and made

It

the capital of

the province.
rebuilt

was

laid

waste by the Vandals,

by Justinian, and destroyed by Sid Obka,

the
greater

who

utilised

portion

of

its

ancient

materials to build the holy city of Kairwan.

Later

SUSA.

the town was rebuilt by the Turks,

for a long

who had here

time one of their hiding-places for their

piratical

fleets.
v.

The town was

and again

therefore assaulted
l)y

by Charles

in 1537,

Andreas Doria

in 1539, and, lastly,

was occupied without a struggle

on the 10th of September 1881, by a force under

General
Etienne.
It
is,

after

Tunis,

the

most

SUS
iinportunt

9
is

town

in the

Regency, and
of the Bey.

governed

by a Khalifa

in the

name
all

Ninnerous remains of
found
the
ruins
in

these periods are to be

in

Susa.

In the liouses, mosques, and

antiquities

surrounding country,
abound.

and ancient
I

From

the

Commandant
Later, the

learnt

that the

foundations of the Kasba date from the

time

of the Phoenicians.

Romans,

as

also those conquerors

who

followed them, built over

these.

In

the

salle

dlionneur

are

arranged

many

earthen vessels of Phoenician origin found in tombs,

together with other objects of the same period.

From Roman
partly

times remain magnificent mosaics,

the
walls
;

buried

in

vessels,
fio-ures.

vases,

and

l)roken fraoments
itself,

of marble

The Kasba
and

with

its

many

arches, gateways, turrets,

walls inlaid with

tiles,

dates from the days of the

Arabs or Turks.
In
nearly

every

instance

the

mosaics

depict

horses, their

names

])cing introduced beside

them.

Evidently, in those days, this was already deemed

an imjiortant mart for horses bred in the country.

The breeding of Barbs appears

than
is

to date further back

generally believed, and, in fact, to be older

than the Arabian conquest of this land.

One

sees

horses depicted with red head-stalls, decorated on

the top with tufts of feathers, and with their near

lo

CAVE DWELLERS

quarters branded, exactly as seen on the troop horses

of to-day.

The

outlines of the horses on the mosaics prove

that the Barbs of that period were the same in type

as those of the present age; also that their careful

treatment

is

not of recent date.

is

Even the same

class of flat iron shoes

used now, as then, on the

horses' forefeet.
I

inquired of the
horses

Commandant whether
and that
tribes

particu-

larly fine

were reared in this region.

He

replied in the afiirmative,

in the direction

of

Kairwan there

are

nomad

whose horses are

of noble race.
I

climbed the high tower of the Kasha,

li<*;htliouse,

now
my

used as a

whence
encircled
all

overlooked the town

its

which lay below

me

by

protecting wall.

Over the country, on

view, and fxr

sides, olive

woods met
I

away on the horizon

could catch a

glimpse of villages, looking like white specks.

dwell the ill-disposed tribes who, in 1881,
against

There
out

lield

the

French.

They never ventured on an

in

open enirao'ement, but at nioht asseml)l('d

their

hundreds and kept up an incessant

lines
;

fire

on the French

killing n

number

of

both

ofiicers

and men.
on the

These were avenged by ]]cavy levies and

inhabitants.
their hearths

fines

Poor people, they had only defended

and homes.

My

boy guide followed

me

through the

streets,

SUS
where drowsy lazy Moors crouclicd,
tlieir

li

luilf

asleep in
loveliest
in

shops, waiting for purchasers.

The
ahout
of

small
streets,

boys and

girls

were

lying

the
here

much

to

the

ol)struction

traliic,

conducted by means of small donkeys and large

mules.

Stepping into a
found,
to

little

Moorish coffee-house,
that the interior

my

astonishmeiit,

re-

sembled
its

in construction

an old Byzantine

basilica,

dome being supported on

arches and pillars.

The The

whole was white-washed, but well preserved.

coffee-house was

named

" el

Kaunat

el

Kubba," which

may
more

1)c

translated Church Cafe.^

Notliing could be

artistic

than the cooking utensils, mats, and

pottery scattered here

old
buildinL"-.

and there about

this

very

At

five

o'clock

it

was dark.

The stream

of

wayfarers diminished, and the streets were deserted

and empty.

dined at the Hotel de France on the

seashore, not far from the esplanade,

and

sat after

dinner reading

my

papers,

till

heard a frightful

noise outside, and, peering out,

saw a crowd of Arabs

gathered beliind an unfurled banner.

They shouted
them
said a
1

and yelled

in

measured time.
all

)ne of

few words which

the others repeated.

was

told that they were praying to Allah for rain.

They
Bahr,

halted a few paces from a kubba, called

1

Bab

el

More accurately the

coU'ee-liouse of the

dome.

Translator's Note.

12

CAVE DWELLERS

and the procession dispersed, the banner being taken

into the kubba.
I

went

for a turn

on the seashore hy the road

el

which leads along the walls to Bab

sun was meltino; hot.
a

Jedir.

The

Aoainst the walls were built

number

of

mud
were
sizes,

huts and sheds, in which, amongst

carriages

and

carts, horses

and donkeys were

pottery,

stabled.

Outside
shapes and

piles

of

vessels of all
for

from the largest receptacles

wine or water
longing to

reminding one of those cups and the Roman age

to
I
is

found be-

jars of spiral
in

or other strange forms, such as

have seen

the

museum

at Carthage.

This clay ware

brought from Nebel, where,

there has been a

since very ancient times,

manuas
it

factory that produces pottery the

same to-day

was a thousand years

ago.

The gateway

is

deep, and has, as have most gates

in this country, recesses

with seats on both

Indeed,

sides,
it
is

always

filled

by

idlers

and beggars.

quite an Ehlorado for the blind, halt, and maimed, as

well as for

many who have nothing

sit

the matter with

them.
their
I

The whole day they

hands
for alms.

there and stretch out

placed myself near the corner stone of the gate,

;

where the shade was cool and pleasant

dark archway
shore,
I

through the

could see the sun blazing on the

like a bright streak of

and the road looking

TWO KHUUMin WOMEN.

SUS
light, and,
l)lue sea.

15

beyond

it,

the harbour and the beautiful

In the space of half an hour, at least a hundred

little

donkeys passed me, laden with vessels of water

or bundles of straw, with often a

man

or

boy perched
his

behind the load.

small
l)ut

solitary rider also passed,

wiry horse going at an amble.

a,

Along the

seashore came, picking their way,

herd of goats,

most of them wearing small

santly.

bells tliat rano- inces-

The herd

settled in the corner outside the

gates l)etween the towers and the town wall.

Then

came unveiled Bedouin women, dark-skinned almost

as

negresses,

but with very fine features.

Then

other veiled

Arab w^omen with black masks that

faces.

covered their
these,
all

A number

of boys followed

good-looking and black-eyed.

;

One held

out his hand

they are accustomed to European o-oodis

nature, and a copper

a foretaste of Paradise to an

Arab boy.
Lastly passed a strange couple.

On

an ordinary

Arab saddle a veiled woman rode

her,

astride,

and behind

on her horse, a

little

boy

he held the reins in

one hand, and a parasol in the other.

Towards evening

it

grew

cooler.

Amongst

the

shipping lay the Ville d'Oran, which next mornino-

was to take

me

south.

It

was

lit

ujd

with numbers

of lanterns, and the

town was illuminated and hunoin

everywhere with

flags,

honour

of the

Russian

i6

CAVE DWELLERS
which that day was to enter Toulon.
all

fleet,

Festival

was kept, not only

colonies.

over France, but also in her

Illustrated editions of

French newspapers,

with

coloured

pictures

of

Russian

and

French

admirals and of the ships of l)oth countries, w^ere

displayed on the walls of
all

cafs,

tobacco shops,

taverns and drinkino- booths in Susa.

The

lioht

on the Kasba had been

lit.

The moon

rose over the town,

and lanterns gleamed along the

seashore and the promenade.

The

irregular line of

the wall and the Kasba tower showed dark against the heavens.

Mingling with the ripple of the water

I

against the quay,

heard the Marseillaise played,

followed by cheers, and on the terraces and balconies

appeared dark figures, enjoying the cool

music.

air

and the

CHAPTER
From Sfax

111

to Gbs
tlie

At
the

a.m.

on the morning of

14tli

October,
left

Ville

cVOran
of

weighed
in

anchor

and

the
for

roadstead
Monastir.

Susa

])rilliant

weather

Monastir, or

]\listir,

has

a popnlation of nine

thousand
Europeans.
later,

inhabitants, of
It

whom

one thousand are

;

was originally a Carthaginian town

"

the " Piuspina

of the

Romans.

It

is

now

surrounded by battlemented walls interspersed with

towers and pierced by five gates.
coloured
tiles,

Ornamented with

the minarets of several mosques rise

here and there above the houses.

I

crossed the

town from the south

to the opposite
;

side.

Here

found an immense cemetery

grave

upon grave grouped about kubbas.

midst of the cemetery
is

In the very

cistern,

which must

supply remarkably good water

Following along the walls of the town

reached the beach, where before
islands

soon

me

lay three small

Jezirel el
el

Hammam
el

(Pigeon Island), Jezirel

Sid

Abd

Fairt

R'dani (so called after a Mara-

i8

CAVE DWELLERS
its

bout whose kuLba crowns

ishxiid

summit), and the third

Island).

named

Jezirel el

Austan (Central
I

Still

folLjwing the walls,

passed Moorish
shore.

women

and children washing clothes on the

num-

ber of boats were lying in the shallow water under

the lea of the islands.

At

ten

o'clock

was again on board, and

at

eleven we started, steering for Mehdia, some thirtysix miles farther south.

On
ancient

the

way we passed Cape

It

Diauros, the site of

Thapsus.

was a Carthaginian colony

where fought Csar Scipio and Cato.

ruins recall the old times.

Numerous

In
o'clock.

Mehdia harbour we anchored about three

Melidia was once a very important town has only some ten thousand inhabitants.
it in
;

now

it

The
;

Sicilians ])esieged

1147
;

the Arabs in 1160

the

Duke

of

Bourbon

in

1390

and Charles

V. in 1557.

The knights
and the

of Malta took part in this last assault,

ffrave of

one of these kniohts

is still

shown.
oil,

Some Europeans
dried
fruits,

carry on a trade here in

sponges, coral, and sardines.

In the

months

of

May and June

off

there are often a couple of

hundred boats lying

the shore fishing for sardines,

hauls.

and generally making good

single boat
six

In one night a
as

may

take even as
fish.

much

from four to

hundredweight of
Large
vessels

do not follow

the

coast

from

FROM SFAX TO GABES

Melidici

19

to

Sfax,

but make a long circuit round

the island of ICirkennali, the water along the coast

being shallow.

Along

this

stretch

of

sea

have
These
in-

been placed light-buoys to mark the course.

buoys are

filled

with compressed

oil,

and burn

cessantly day and night.

They

are constructed to

burn three months, but are inspected monthly.

Early
in the

morning of the 15th October we

cast anchor about

two miles outside Sfax, of which

the white walls glistened in the morning sun.

A
rise

steam tug took us ashore.

the tide here
is

The ebb and flow of

very strong, with a possible

as

and

fall

of as

much

eight feet, which accounts

for the flatness of the beach.

The only ship

landet
timber.

in

the roadstead was the Fderlying -to

from

Bergen,

and

discharging

Sfax was taken on the IGtli July

force

1881 by a
a
serious

under

Admiral

Garnault,

after

bombardment which

laid

waste a great part of the

ramparts and the town.

The

walls enclosing the

sea,

European quarter, which

lately,

faces the

have been pulled down

and

here the French have established themselves.

To
by

the rear
its

lies

the

Arab town,

still

surrounded

walls

and towers.
1

On

landing

met the Vice-Consul

for

Sweden
in

and Norway, Olaf Henriksen, a young man wdio

20

CAVE DWELLERS
made
the
for himself a

the course of a few years has

good position as partner

sole,

in the hirge,
in

and perhaps
place.

firm

of

timber

traders

His

em
i

J:

^^
lir,

""^stA

AT SFAX.
{From a painting hy Mrs. Henriksen.)

office

and warehouses arc on the quay.

is

Olsen, his
is

co-partner,

likewise a Northerner.

Henriksen
it is

agent for the United Shipping Co., Imt

that Danish vessels touch here.

seldom

After a stroll through the town, Mr, Henriksen

FROM SFAX TO GABES

led
i\

21

me

to his liome

and intiodiiced me to
from Christiania.
I

his wife,

Norwegian

hxdy

spent a

comfortahle and most enjoyable day in their house,

which

is

outside the town and

commands

a view

of the harhour.

Mrs.
walls

ireurikscu

is

very

lair

artist.

On

the
of

hung sketches

of her northern

home and

Sfax, painted
talent.

by herself and showing considerable

The toml)s of Mara1)0uts, the cemeteries

Arab tents
in the vicinity

outside the walls, and the

were the subjects that pleased

me

most.

She most

amiably promised to
ing
for

])e

my

collaborator, l)y allow-

me

to

make use

of a couple of her sketches

my
Sfax

book.
is

a large town, with

about

fifty

thousand

inhabitants, of

whom

the eighth part are Europeans.

is

considerable trade
grass,

carried on
last

in sponges,

oil,

and esparto

this

being worked by a
;

Franco-Anglo-Tunisian

Company
called
in

in

addition

to

these, there is a trade in fruit

and vegetables, more

Arabic
the
" Sfakus,"

especially

cucuml)ers,

from
town.
In

which,

no

doubt,

arises

name

of

the

the

neighbourhood
the

are

many

villas

and
the

gardens, where

townsfolk take refuge in

is

hot season, but beyond these

In ancient days the
city,

the sandy desert.

here a large
In

Komans had
are

of which

many

traces

found.

the

22

CAVE DWELLERS
I

covered streets

saw

arches, wliich

by

their capitals

and columns were of Roman

old

origin,

and heard of

Roman
Sfax
is

graves and foundations l)eing frequently

discovered.

a garrison, and amongst the soldiers

Sj^aliis,

is

a fine

body of

but at the time of

my

visit

many were

absent at the manuvres.

in

During the nioht we steamed

from the roadstead of
Sffix to

four

hours

Galdes.

oolden strand

in the backo;round

some white
Such
is

houses, and to the right a

palm grove.

the

view of Gabes from the

sea.

The landing-place was only

from the European quarter.
I

short

distance

called on the

com-

manding

officer,

Colonel Gousset of the Spahis, to

whom
deed

the Regency at Tunis had

recommended me,

directing that
in

he should assist
the

me by word and

my

journey to

cave dwellers (trog-

lodytes) of the southern mountains.

It

was the hour of muster, and the Colonel

introduced

me

to

many

of the officers, one of

staff,

whom,

Captain Montague of the General's

his horse,

lent guide.

me
and

and a Spahi was told

off as

my

"
'

When

one wanders towards the

Syrtes

Leptis Magna,' one finds in the midst of Afric's

;

sands a town called Tacape

cultivated

the

soil

there

is

much

and
all

marvellously

fruitful.

The town

extends in

directions to about three thousand

FROM SFAX TO GABES

paces.

23

Here

is

found

a
is

fountain with an a1)nn(lant

supply of water, wliidi

only used at stated times

beiieatli tliat

and

liere

grows a high palm, and

tliat a fig tree.

palm

an olive, and nndcf

Under

the fig tree

vine.
oats,

gi'ows a pomegranate,

and beneath that again a

first

Moreover,

l)eneatli

these last are sown,

grass,
all

then
Yes,

vegetables

or

in

the

same

year.

thus they grow them, each sheltered by the

other."

Thus wrote Pliny of the

eighteen liundred

oasis near Gal)s over

years ago, and this

description

can

l)e

ap])]ied in the

main

at the })resent day.

Of

this

town,

created

bv the

Carthaginians,

colonised bv the
archbishopric,

Eomans, and

later the seat of

an

and which stood nearer the ocean

than the existing villages, there remain now only

some crumbled ruins on the

Baba's Zauia,

hills

near Sid Bu'l

now

diffic'ult

even to
lie

trace.

Remains of

cisterns can

seen, built with the

imperishable cement

of which

the

Romans
Menzel,
still

alone

understood the preparation.

long since

But the stones have

to

been

removed

Jara,

and
to be

Shenini, villages of the oasis, where are

found, in
capitals

the

wretched
l)as-reliefs,

native
side

buildingS;
side

carved
sun-

and

by

with

dried bricks and uncut stones.

But
Tlic

it

is

lono'

since this
in

old

town vanished.

Arab geographers

the eleventh and twelfth

24

CAVE DWELLERS
as also

centuries,

Leo Africanus

in

tlie

sixteentli

century, mention Gabes as a large town surrounded

by walls and deep

flooded with water.
there,

trenches, which latter could

l)e

They

tell

us of a great fortress

and that the town had a large population and

TOWER

IN

THE VILLAGE OF MENZEL.

extensive

suburbs.
tlieir

Then the

Mohammedan

con-

querors laid

iron

liand ovTr the countiy,

and

the inhabitants were dispersed and gathered in the

villages

Jara

and

Menzel,

each

now

containing

some four thousand inhabitants.

situated near the river

Both

villaires

were

and

close to the market-place,

for

and were continually fighting amongst tliemselves

FROM SFAX TO GABES

the possession of these
;

25

whilst other villages,

of

which Shenini

is

the largest, concealed themselves

amidst their palm groves.

JEWESSES AT MENZKL.

To
the

keep

these
erected,

rival

villages

in

subjection,

Turks

just

l)etween
f(n-t).

them,
It

fort

Borj

Jedia

(the

new

was
July

blown
1881,

up by French

marines on

the

21st

26

CAVE DWELLERS
they
assaulted,

when

stormed,

and

seized

the

villages.

Later there arose by the seashore,

liiits,

taverns,

and eating-houses, and,

these

after

the

first

occupation,
sorts

formed a place of

resort

for

all

of

adventurers, and was therefore wittily

quinville "

named

" Co-

by the

soldiers.

Out
as

of this has

grown

quite a little town,

known

the

Port of Gabes.

This

is

occupied

l)y

the European colony, consisting

of from one to

two thousand persons of various

orioins.

Mediterranean
Allegro,

The residence of General

the Bey's governor of El Arad, the most

southern district of Tunisia, was originally the only

building on the spot, and here he
still

resides

but

now

in

the

long streets

there

are

commandants'

houses, oftjcers' Cjuarters,

the Hotel de I'Oasis, and

a large numljer of offices of all descriptions.

Behind

the

town

to

the

south,

lie

the barracks for the

garrison of Spahis and infantry.

In former days

the troops were quartered farther inland, on a height

near the Gabes River, as the water was better

but

UDW drinking-water has been

from a near-lying AVad
(Jalx's,

l)rought to the

town

oasis.

or the

Gabes Elver, has

its

source
its
soil,

about a score of miles inland, and Hows over

l)road

bed,
to

through
oasis,

saline

and lime-charged
the water

down
niucli

the

wherefore
is

contains

magnesia, and

in

consequence most unwhole-


FROM SFAX TO GABES
some, and has caused the death of
colonist

27

many

a youngtlie

and

suhlicr.

Tt is said
in

that the aoe o of

eldest soldier buried

ihe

churchyard was hut

five-and-twenty.
In old times the water

must naturally have heen

Romans, those masters

as unhealtlu' as now, but the

of colonisation,
collected
in

used,

on that account, rain water

cisterns.

Remains of such tanks

are

found everywhere in the south.

The Arab

rider,

given

me
the

as

guide,

and

rode along the northern bank of the river so as to

cross

the

Gabes

oasis

from

sea

tow^ards

the

interior.
It

was

the

most enjoyable excursion

havino- made.
cliffs,

can

remember ever
The
horses

sea roared behind the sand

while the

panted
cliffs

through

the

deep

sand.

From
trees,

behind the

appeared the tops of palm

in the shade.

and presently we were

The

light

gleamed through the palm leaves on

trees,

lemon, orange, and pomegranate

trailing vines,

and on the

trained up to the beloved sun, and

stretched from tree to tree in oraceful festoons.

In the open spaces between the palms hiy the

orchards,

where grew

all

kinds of

fruit
figs,

trees
olives,

peaches, apples, pears, plums, apricots,

and many

others.

The

air

was pregnant with the scent from the

28

CAVE DWELLERS
and plants.
Beneath the shade of the thick

trees

foliage

overhead spread the most beautiful green

sward, intersected by flowing rivulets of water and

small canals,
l)a,iiks,

dammed by means
own land

of dykes and low

as in our

irrigation.

ox THE OASIS OF GAES.

By

small

paths

and roads we

wandered

on,

following the turns of the canals, riding sometimes

on a narrow track between two banks, and

then met Arabs on their
little

if

we
it

overladen mules

was a squeeze

to pass

by them.
trees.

There was silence amongst the

Only now

and then, when we drew near to

tents, or

some straw

FROM SFAX TO GABES

hut concealed
voices
tuiiidst

29

the

foliage,

could

we hear
and

and

the

barking

of

dogs.

Women

children peeped at us through the l)ranclies, and

we
in

saw men
their

in scanty clotliing

working with hoes

the

gardeus,

or

women weeding

beds and

o-atherino;

henna

in 1)askets.

Birds

Hew from

])ranch to l)rancli, or across the

open spaces.

Wood

pigeons called, and turtle-doves

fluttered about on the

cooed, whilst the chaffinch

tops of the almond trees, and in the distance the

sound of a shot proclaimed that a sportsman

clearino-

in

on the borders of the

oasis

had

fired at hare,
1)y

quail, or partridge.
sea,

On

the extreme border,

built

the

was the tomb of a Marabout,

from the

ancient remains of the town of olden days, blended

with new materials.

entrance were of

The columns supporting the

stone, with

new rough

handsome

carved capitals.

We

emerged on the barren

plain,

and saw

in the

far distance,

on rising ground, other palm groves,

tigain

but hurried back

till,

into the fascinating wood,

bridges, beneath

by paths and over small stone

streams
rippled
sheltered

which
palms,
dykes.

by the arching
l)etween

we came
There
it

to a l)roader

road

high

was

difficult to

advance, as some

artillerymen with baggage carts drawn by mules had

stuck fast in the mud, the waggons being overladen

with stone.

;o

CAVE DWELLERS
The way now turned towards the
rivei".

As we

left

the palm grove by the miry road to cross the

bridge, the grey walls of a village lay before ns on

the opposite

side.

The

river

bank was crowded

;

with

women and

children

washing

clothes

were

hanging to dry on the bushes,

Avhilst shortly-kilted

/.li^a

WASUEKWOMKN AT THE JAUA

figures

BKIDUE.

waded

into the water, or sat on the stones

flat

by

the river side beating clothes with

of

boards.

Most
their

them pretended not

to see us,

some turned

backs, and a very few stole roguish glances at us.

The whole scene was worthy

good
artist.

of the brush of a

The grey-yellow water,

the

yellow

shore and green

wood under the deep blue

sky, aiid

FROM SFAX TO GABES

aoaiiist this biickorouiid the

31

many-coloured fioures
All

of

women and

children.

were in constant

movement and

cliattering loudly.

We
The
air

rode throuo^h the oate.

The

villao-e consists

of narrow streets and lanes of wretched low houses.

was oppressively

hot,

and

dirt

was every-

where.
aside

My
with

guide
loud

rode in front,
exclamations.
;

pushing people

They
to

submitted
is

quietly to

being hustled
ao-ain

" Kith

kin

least

kind."
throuii-li

Then,

crossing;

the

river,

we rode
as far as

the oasis to other villag-es

and

the poor huts of Slienini, then turned again

to the stream,

down

which here ran between high banks,

and

after visiting, just at nightfall,

some encampto

ments
Gabes.

close by,

we hastened on our way back

CHAPTER
From Gabes
Crouched
in a

IV

to the

Matmata Mountains

wretched hut, which seemed to

I
>sat

me

then the perfection of comfort,

writing by the

light of u tiickering candle at the village of Zaraua,

on the top of a mountain of the Matmata range,

south of Gabes.
Outside
I

could hear

my

horse
;

munching,

as

he stood, his well-earned barley

farther

away dogs

were barking.

The moon sent her rays through

my

doorway

and now and then came to

voices,

my

ear the

sound of human

but this soon ceased as the

:

sun had lomr since set

for

in

these

regions

all

retire to rest early so as to rise at dayljreak.

The two previous days had sped

tale.

as in a fairy

As

opened

my window
on the

at

the Hotel dc
it

rOasis at 4.30 a.m.

still

17th October,

was

half-dark, but

could distinguish a

little

way
was

dt)wn the street an Aralj horse, saddled, and

side a white l)undle lying on
tlie

l)y its

footway.

It

Hamed,

the Arab horseman,

renseignement had placed at

whom the bureau de my disposal, and who

hour fixed for

was now waiting

for five o'clock, the

32

>

ti

55 Ph

W S

o CC
fe

O
^ 3

FROM GABES TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS

our
start.

OD

little

later

arrived

my

brown

steed,

supplied by the Spalii regiment.

My

small travelling

kit,

photographic ap})aratus,
horse.

and breakfast were packed on Hamed's

revolver
I

The

slung on

my own
I

saddle, little realising

fire
it

that the same afternoon

occasion
;

should

on a festive

and

w^e started,

wending our way amongst

the showy, newly-built European houses.

Outside the town, the country

is

somewhat

flat

we followed

the road.

To our

right,

towards the

north, was Gabes' winding river, but invisible to us,

as
it lies

low.

On

the other side, the palm groves

showed us

a dark forest.

The

villages

by the

river

stood out clearly against this dark background, and

the

risino;

sun shone on the white kubba to our

left

of Sid Bu'l Baba.

On
esparto

the

road

we met
tiny

little

groups of natives
all

driving camels and

straw.

donkeys,

laden

with

Their

houses

were many a mile

away over the blue mountains, which were dimly

distinguishable on the horizon, for they

came from

Hadeij, our destination, to

sell

this,

about the only

product in

which they can deal during the hot

summer

season.

Now

and

asfain

we

also

met small caravans

dry wood.

of

donkeys carrying

light loads of

After a quick trot, that

chilly hour,

warmed
left

us at this early
in a southerly

we turned

to the

36

CAVE DWELLERS
wound along
slightly

direction, taking a path that

undLdating ground.

hrace of partridges rose, and

we heard
north-west
erected
Ijy

the quail calling, and

saw young larks

running on the barren ground.

On
of

a hill to the

we

spied

the

(:anip

Kas

el

Wad,

General Boulanger in his day.

in

Once and

again

we indulged

a (piick gallop, hut only in

short stretches,

when

the paths were not

muddy

or

too winding.

Here and there stood a parched

olive tree

or

date palm, on spots where, in the wet season ever come

if it

a
in

little

water would reach them.

We
in

were overtaken
a white sticking

])y a

horseman closely enveloped

his

humous, the hood diawn over

up
the air in a peak.
his slight l)ut
It

head and
"

was " Amar

from Hadeij on

wiry pony.

He was
us.

acquainted with Hamed, so wished to join

linir,

His

heard and eyes were black, his expression good-

natured, with an open brow, and his teeth milk white.

After two hours' ride, during which

we only once

met any

people,

we reached the

oasis of El

Hamdu

near by roamed some miserable cattle, grazing under

the care of an
cou[)le of goats.
(

old

man
tlie

with these were also a

)n

the border of

oasis

we watered our

horses

at a fountain surrounded

by palms.

Women
out.

peeped

shyly at us over the walls of the only stone building

of the villaue that

we could make

FROM GABES TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS

Ricliii^-

37

on,
oLii-

wc
left,

passed several tom1)s of Marathe palms of the oasis seemed

line,

bouts.

On

drawn up

in

long

and

smoke couhl be

perceived rising heavenwards from huts and tents

l)eneath the trees.

From an encampment on

the

edge of the oasis the dogs rushed out l)arking,

If ^.. ir^f-

rLOlT(;niNG-fiABES.

the inlialiitants standing

staring at us.

stiffly,

like

statues,

and

Along a shallow, stony,

for the

river bed

rough ground
sun burnt so

horses
in

wc
the

pursued our way towards our

hills,

destination

whilst

the

fiercely that our senses

were dulled.

After a couple more hours,

we again met

lathii

38

CAVE DWELLERS

camels, and with tliem some travellers on foot, one

without a
only in
a

burnous or head-covering, and clothed

shirt confined at the waist

by

a strap.

He wore

his hair in a tuft

in his

on the nape of his neck,

and carried
told nie he

hand

banner on a

pole.

Amar
villages

was a Marabout from one of the

near Gal)s.

Of Marabouts there

is

no

lack.

This one was

very poor, and was returning from the mountains,

where he had

l)een

l)egging for

money which he
carried

imaoined was due to him.

that

The banner he
a

everyone

might see that

holy

man was

comino-.
I

gave him a few coppers, and the young fellow

kissed

my

hand, and wished

It
is

me good
is

luck on

my

journey.
luck

not everyone who

wished good
I

on their travels by a Marabout.

blessing cheap.

bought

my

We now
hills,

rode

some

distance
in the

amongst small

which are scattered

like

foreground of the

mountains

islands on

coast-line.

On some
A mar.
less

eminences were heaps of stones.

" Those were there before our time," said
Ill

places
it

where the ground was more or round

land,
fell.

le\L'l

was slightly scratched

This
is

about the
that
is

dry bushes.
say, it

the

arable
if

to

would be cultivated

rain

We

halted beneath some bushes to eat our break-

FROM GABES TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS

fast.

39

Tlie Ijread,
1

butter,

and cheese we could

all

enjoy, but

alone the

wine and meat.

pome-

granate supplied our dessert.

AVhilst

we

sat there, five

l)y

women

in

l)liie

dresses

came by, preceded

score

an old

man

driving half a
bracelets

of camels.

The women wore

furtively at us

and

anklets.
past.

They glanced
negress
only,

and trudged
l)ehind,

who lagged
81ie

tried

to

attract

our attention.

was evidently not

of.

accustomed to be taken notice

Travelling was

now
dry,

easy, the track leading up-

wards over smooth calcareous around.

watercourses,
l)alm

In

little

now

were
soil

planted

clumps

of

and

olive trees,

the

being l)anked al)Out

adjoining slope were

them

to form

dams.

On an

numljers of small caves, inhabited_ mily in harves t

time,

when watch
ascended
until

is

kept over thej^pps,

We
saddle,
in
I

hii>her

and hioher amonost the

as
I

mountains,

suddenly,

turned

in

my

saw the Mediterranean

like a blue streak

the distance.

We

were at that
to

moment

at the

highest point

we were

reach that day.

At

distance here and there dogs appeared, l)arking at

us,

and occasionally
rising smoke.

in

their vicinity white figures

and

Hamed

said

that these people

trilje.

were cave dwellers, but were only a small

little

later w^e

were to arrive at quite a subti

ranean town.

40
1

CAVE DWELLERS
halted tiljruptly on .seeing below

me

a valley

with, comparatively speakiug,

many

trees.

On

the

farther side rose a long range of high mountains.

The valley

itself Avas

exactly like a large, old sand

or clay ditch, with sloping sides, pierced

by a great
shafts,

number
" Is

of neglected

and long-disused
olives,

but

planted with trees

palms,
?

and

figs.

that Hadeij

"

asked.

Hamed

nodded,

and

pulled up to take a photograph.

It

was then exactly two

for a

o'clock,

and we continued

on our way, walking

time beside our horses.

Just as we were about to remount, a white sheep-

dog bounded out of a hole we had not noticed

it

bayed at us

in a

most dismal
its

fashion,

and from

the nearest points of vantage

in chorus.
I

companions joined

rode up to look at the dogs, and caught sight

of a

deep pit

witli

perpendicular sides

that

had

been dug in the ground from the top of the ascent.

"|~

Down
a

at the

bottom a camel stood

resting.

Round
bins

hearth were
of
a

household chattels and

containing
barley,

lar<Te

made

rushes,

and amongst
and
children

these

few fowls.

Some women

looked up on liearing the tramp of

at

my

horse, stared

me

for

moment, and then Hed

into recesses

in the walls.

Hamed now

suggested that
1

.should not

remain

standing there, and

followed his good advice.

FROM GABES TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS

41

path

had been dug into the

;i

hillside,

and

terminated in
led to a long

large door or gate.

})assage,
air,

This evidently

underground

and ended in.

1

the square yard, open to the

seen,

which

had just

and whence are entered the excaviited rooms

i

or cav^es, used as dwelling-places, stores, and stables^;

On

the horizon the straight stems of palms stood

In the fore-

out sharply against the mountains.

ground were
a few palms
;

olive trees, and,

mingled with them,

beneath one of these was gathered

a group of men,

amongst whom, Hamed

I

said,

was
old
his

the great Khalifa.

therefore

drew

rein.

An

greybeard

rose

and

strode

forward,
the

offering

hand and

l)idding

me

welcome,

other

men

following his example.

They were

fine

specimens

of humanity, with regular features, black eyes, and

straight

noses

one

saw

at

once

that

they

were

not of the ordinary Arab type.

From an open

space, or square, several passages

led into the hills, affording admission to the cave

dw^ellers' aljodes,

which are

all

of similar construcI

tion

to

that
in

already

mentioned.
caves,

was allotted

(piarters

one of the

and stepped from

the outer air into the hill through a

wooden

<><'ito

on

heavy hinges, and proceeded through a long

cut
in

passage,
height.
for

the

rocks,

little

over a man's

On

either side w^ere excavated lar^e stalls

horses,

the

covered

way ending

in

an

open

42

CAVE DWELLERS

square court witli perpendicular walls some thirty

X"

feet this

high
court

and about the same

one
stej)s

in

width.

From

into symmetrical caves with

vaulted roofs.
In the undero-round ouest-chamber
I

stretched

myself comfortably on a couch covered with hand-

some carpets from Kairwan.

table

and some

chairs completed the furniture of this room, specially

set apart for

European

guests.

The_Khalifa

is rich,

very

rich, so that
it

he can permit himself this luxury,

though
visitor.

is

but seldom that he has a European

told

He

me

with

pride

that

(general

Boulanger had in his time been his guest.

After
in

my

long ride

required rest; the doors

it

the yard

were therefore closed, so that

was

quite dark in

my

room.
a

The

flies

did not worry

sleep
until
I

me,

and

had quite

refreshing

was awakened by the neighing of the horses

the
in

in

passages.

little
;

later

the

light

streamed

through

my
it

door

a.

figure stepped in,

wliilst

and

for

moment
It

was aoain dark

the

newcomer

passed through the doorway.

was

tlic

Klialifa

behind him came

sons or people

Hamed
of the

and several
house.
I

otlier

persons,

expressed

my

pleasure at being the guest of so

hospitable a man, and the Khalifa responded with

compliments.

Cotiee

was served, and the party

FROM

(lAHES

TO THE M ATM ATA MOUNTAINS

tihout

43

guuLiped

themselves

me on

the

tioor,

with

the

exception of the

Khulifa

who scuted himself

easily

by me on the divan, and conversation flowed

with the help of Hamed.

The contents of

my
in-

saddle-bags, the })hotographic

apparatus, and especially an entomological syringe,

underwent careful
vestigation.

But

could

not
idle

afibrd to sit

and

the

time

away,

so

went out
me.
I

to look about

Throuoh Hamed

expressed

my

desire
in-

to

examine
of a

the

terior

dwelling,

and was promised that

1

should
;

see

everyJEWISH FAMILY IX A CAVE DWELLING

IN llADEIJ.

thing

but several
passed
the

times we
square
the
a
si

openings on the tops of the

to

hills,

as also

entranc't's

houses, without

anyone niakiug

on to us to
last
(

enter.
I

At
invited.

we
)n

arrived at a house into which

was
that

the whole

it

much resembled
inhabited

from

which we

came,

and was

bv

Jew and
The

a poor Berber family.

yard

was

dirty

cooking

utensils

lay

44

CAVE DWELLERS
about,

scattered

intermingled

with

few

rush

corn-bins and some goats and poultry.

A
both

woman,

old,

wrinkled,

and

tattooed,

and

hideous and dirty, was brought forward for

It was, of course, the
1

me
I

to see.

Jew's wife.
;

His

fellow-lodgers, the Berbers,

did not see

but as

stepped into the dwelling, a vision of blue skirts

leg's
I

and bare

vanished into the side caves.

Already
that
I

began to

feel

impatient and to fear

was
I

Ijeing

made

a fool of

and should never

see, as

longed to do, where and how the Berbers

I

lived.

Fortunately

had

later a

splendid op})or-

tunity of studying the whole subject.

Accom^janied

l)y
I

two sons of the Khalifa and

walked round the valley and
I

some other persons

u]

the slopes, whence

could peer

down

into the

caves at the l)ottom of the valley, and could see

women going through

ings, to the

the entrances to their dwellolive trees, followed

palm and
children.
1

by dogs

and inquisitive

My
(|ueiitlv.

camera

iiad

with

me, and used

it

fre-

As

the sunset liour approached, the heat relaxed,

ease.

and one breatlicd with

Ill

a great

open square,

l)eautified

with palms, at

least fifty }'ouiig

men and

l)oys

were running from

side to side.

They had

cast aside the burnous,

sJiirts,

and

wore only red caps and

which fluttered as

FROM GABES TO THE MATMATA iMOUNTAINS

they
rail.

45

With

Ioiiq; l)all

sticks, l)ent at

one end, they

fro,

struck at a soft

which flew to and

some-

times in the
It

air,

sometimes on the ground.

to

was
so

lieautiful

watch these bokl mnscnkir

with
their

figures,
l>rowii

straight

and suppk\
features

light eyes,

skins,

regular

and

bright

'"^:?iv^.-

siea.v

*'ti^ ^^_.
' <;-v

*..

t'-i

''!S^~

-~

"'S)*

CAVES IN MATMATA.

reminding

me

that

thus

must

the

Greek

and

Roman

l)oys

have played on the plains beneath

their blue mountains.

The game was kept up without

a pause, until

the sun sank suddenly behind the mountains, and

it

was no longer possible to

in these regions.

see,

for

twilight

is

unknown

46

CAVE DWELLERS
I

returned to

my

cave,
nntil

lit

cigarettes

and waited

my candle, smoked my dinner slionld be

carrying
before
a

served.

Five figures

appeared,

each
table

dish

which was placed on a

me,
me.

and a

pitcher of water was deposited

beside

The

A CAVE DWELLING, JIATMATA.

meal consisted of soup with lumps of meat highly

peppered, a stew of chicken, and an enormous dish
of kus-kus,

made

of barley meal with goat's flesh,

;

and, finally,
l)arley meal,

honey and bread

this

last

was of

dry but well flavoured.

1
a.

knife

had with

me

but a spoon,

that

treasure to

European

in

these regions, was pro-

FROM GABES TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS

vkled.

47

llamcd stood by
it

my

side,

tilled

my

glass

wlienever

was empty, and

served

the

dinner.

On
him

one side sat Mnnsur, the Khalifa's third son, as

I

ordained by their customs and usages.

to join

requested

me

at dinner.

With

a graceful motion
his

of his hand to his breast, he

bowed

head and

begged

me Hamed On
the

to excuse him.

informed

me

that

honoured

guests

always dine alone.

floor,

somewhat

aside, sat a row^ of

white

figures all staring at

me

whilst

ate.

great silence reisjned.

This procedure rather disturbed

me

at

first,

but

one soon

o-ets

accustomed to this sort of

thino;.
I
;

Hamed
it

constantly pressed

me

to eat.
to

thought
but
dis-

could

be of no

consequence

him

covered later that he was prompted by delicacy of

feeling.

For when

had concluded

my

meal,

it

was

his turn, with

Mansur and

others, to eat the

etc.

remains.

All the scraps of meat, bones,

left

were then put back into the dishes, and these were
carried into

the adjoining room where the rest of

the
so,

men

gathered

round them

but before doing

they poured water in a basin and moistened

their lips
I

and

fingers.

peeped

in

on them, and was greeted by the

sound of noisy mastication.

Their shoes had been
left

beyond the edge of

48

CAVE DWELLERS
mat on which they were
in phice of

the rush

seated.

Fingers

were used

spoons or forks.
satisfied.
it

At

hist

they were

The remnants were

was then prol^ably

again collected in a dish, and

the turn of the boys and negroes, and, after them,

of the dogs
;

l)ut

the end
I

did not see.

After enjoying coffee

went out into the court

In the distance

where the
I

stars twinkled overhead.

heard a strange

humming

noise,

and the sound

little

as of far-off explosions.

After a

while the

Khalifa arrived to invite

first

me

to he present at the

day's fete held to celebrate his son

wife,

Mohammed's

wedding to a second
that the sounds
I

and

then understood

had heard had been the

hum

of

many

voices

and of gunshots.
rose
in

The moon

the

vault

of heaven,

and

disclosed in front of me, and on eitlier side of the

slopes,

forms wrapped each in his burnous, squatting

side.

side

by

From above,

the

moonhght shone on
appearance of
as

the

wliite

crowd, giving them the

spectres.

The group opposite looked

in black,

thougli

moulded half

and half
left

in dazzlins white.

Up
were
silent,

above and to the

were depicted against

the light a crowd of black, pointed figures.

These

men

of the

Matmata mountains

they sat

watching apparently the dark corner in front

liglit

of me, where no
liicrli

penetrated, as the

moon

rose

oil

her course.

FROM GABES TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS

The Khalifa
these
us,

51

(n'dcrcd chairs to be brono-ht.

On

we seated

ourselves,

Hamed

staiidino;

behind

and ])ending forward

to each of us in turn, like

a mechanical contrivance through which

we

carried

on our conversation.

Groups of men
continued
arriving

sat behind until

and beside us
square was

they
to

the
sat

full

where the Matmata men

Eight in
front,

on the
level

Ijanks.
1

on

the

ground,

dis-

tinguished a dark compact mass.

These were the

women,

closely enveloped in their

sombre garments;

they were seated by the entrance to the caves.

lantern

was

now

lit

and
its

placed

un

the

ground near

my
it

feet.
I

xVt

first

light confused

me, but without

place.

could not have seen what took

One
a

of the Khalifa's

horsemen named Belkassim,

relative

and an

elderly

man, was deputed

little

to

maintain order, and at once cleared a

space

between us and the women.

He

then led forward

two negroes, who performed

of a

a dance to the

sound

drum and

a clarionet.

They marched towards

us side by side, then retired backwards, then again

forward and back.

This was repeated some half-

dozen times, with a swinoincf movement from the

hips.

Every time they approached

us,

they waved
then

the

drum and

the clarionet over our heads,

turned towards the

women

before stepping backwards

52

CAVE DWELLERS
The Khalifa
their heads

again.

raised his hand.

The negroes

bent

backwards that he might place

I

a coin

on the forehead of each.

;

followed his

example

with the result that they continued their

parade and deafening noise of slow, harsh, wheezy,

jerky music.

Suddenly

it

increased in pace, and both negroes

whirled violently round.

slower, the parade
hearino-

The time then became

recommenced, and

my

sense of

was

ai>ain

endanoered each time the loud

drum was

svvuno; over

mv

head.

The din ceased abruptly, and from the rows of

women came

a strancje

cluckiniij

sound

as of

the

hurried calling of fowls, " Lu,

lu, lu,

lu, lu, lu, lu."

This was a sign of approval.

a

At the same moment

lit

gun was

fired.

The

flash

up the rows of
again.

women.
It

The shots were repeated again and

was the brideoroom's nearest friends

firino;

salute in his honour.

The women responded with

negro musicians joined, and

the " Yu, yu

"

cry, the

more shots

followed.

Then
festive

it

struck

me
1

that

also

would join

in

the

demonstration, so
revolver,

told

Hamed

to

l)ring

me my
the
air,

and

fired the six

chambers into

one after the other.

at

The women

once broke into the cry of

joy.

Drums and
"
1

clarionets joined in.

gratified,"
1

am much

said to the Khalifii,

FROM GABES TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS

" that people.

53

you have introduced me to the

Here
is

circle of

your

my

hand

in

token of

my

gratitude.

May
" "

Allah protect you and yours."

Thanks

for

your good
a strange

wishes,"

he

replied.

You come from

and distant
one for

land.

You
I

are

my

friend

and

my

l)rother,

whom

am

responsible so long as you remain in the JMatmata

mountains.

You

are free to travel

anywhere you

please; no one will injure you."

I said, "

When

came

I
;

knew you would

I

treat

me

as

you would

a l)rother
;

was told so

l)y

the

Khalifa of Gabes

but
all

was not aware that you

tril)es

had authority over

the
I

of the

Matmata.

But now
l)y

know

it.

arrived with this weapon

it

my
is

side, as

you may have seen

received me.

hung by
I

my

saddle
it it

when you

Now

realise that

superfluous, and that I shall have no need of

as
I

so long

sign, therefore,

am amongst your people. As of my sincerity, and as a token

and
gratitude
to
yourself,

a of

my

respect
I

for

my
But
to

brother,

present
place
it,

you with
in

my

weapon.

before

it

your hands, permit

me

salute with

after the

manner

of your countryI

men, as an expression of the pleasure

being in your compau}' during the
these festivities."

derive at
of

celebration

Eetiring outside the circle of spectators,

fired

again

the six chambers of

my

revolver.

54

CAVE DWELLERS
Then arose from the women
a high-pitched
liy

and

long-drawn " Yn, yu,

shots.

yii,"

followed

some musket

Bowing

to

the Khalifa

})resented
his hand,

him with
it

the revolver.

He

gave
lips.

me
Tliis

bringing
seal

afterwards to his
friendship.

was the

of our

"Would you
or

like

the

women
-

to sing for you,

?

would

you prefer men

singers

"

asked

the

Khaliftx.

"

As you

will,
;

brother

do not wish to inter-

rupt your fete

arrival."

let it

go on as arranged before

my

However, the old man insisted on

which
I

my

deciding
I

preferred, so I could not

deny that

was

inclined to hear the

women

sing.

They

sat before

me

could
I

not

distinguish
told, sat the

their features.
first

Amongst them,

was

wife of the Inideo'room

Mohammed sharinocomparatively young

lieart

in the universal rejoicings.

According to report, she

is

and

still

pretty,

and who knows but that her

aches at the thouiiht that soon she must share her

husband with a younger

rival

or

perhaps

it

may

seem

to

her (piite

natural,

and she congratulates

herself on the prospect of having

in lier work,

someone

to help

which

is

not of the lightest.

his

The Khalifa

laid

hand on

my

shoulder to

FROM GABES TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS

warn
beo'in.

55

me

tlicat

tlie

performance

was

about

to

]n

somewhat

drawlinii;

measure, a sweet female

voice improvised a solo, the chorus being taken

up

by the surrounding women, interrupted now and

again by the shrill

"Yu, yu."
it

Hamed
" This

told

me

was of myself they sang.

fol-

morning he came with weapons and

straight

lowers

perhaps
on
his

from

Paris.

The
red.

pistol

hung

saddle

his

horse
see.

was

The

proudest charger you could

as a

He
over

sat straight

palm on

his

horse,

right

the

steep

hillside.

Yu, yu, yu.

he
sits

"

Now

with us as a brother.

Yes, like

the

Bey

himself,

by the

side of Sid

Fatushe, our

old Khalifa.
gift,

He

has given him his pistol, a costly

of greater value

than even the best camel.

Yu, yu, yu.

" If he will be our friend
will

and remain with

us,

we
on
lier

find

him

a wife.

Fatima awaits him

stained

of the
;

beautiful

eyes, her nails

with

henna

her hands are golden bracelets, and anklets on

feet.

" Yu, yu, yu."

There was a great deal more sun; about

me

which

am too modest to repeat. The women sang for about an

I

hour, improvising

my

praises, giving

honour

to the Khalifa in flatter-

56

CAVE DWELLERS

ing phrases, and not omitting

my

friend

and guide,

Ilamed and

his horse.

At

last

the

song ceased, and

thanked the

Khalifa and Ijegged him to believe in

appreciation.

my

sincere

Next stepped forward

a nmlatto.

Amongst

the

Arabs these play the part of the jesters of the

Middle Ages.
slnill
in

Accompanied by the drum and the

notes of the clarionet, he delivered a lampoon

directed

verse,

against

the

women,

since they
tliey

liad
l)ut,

not sung in praise of liim

whom

knew,
they

forsooth, liad extolled the stranger

for the first time.

whom

saw

He

abused them

in

lano-uasrc

ftir

from decorous,
laughter from
the
;

and reaped applause

the men,

in

half-stiHed

who spent the whole evening on

did one of

self-

same spot where they had originally

settled

only
his

now and then

burnous
Itetter

them
;

rise

to

wrap

about him

his fio-ure standinsf out

sharply against the vault of heaven above the edge

of the bank.

There were
present.

many

children and half-grown lads

At the commencement they were rather

noisy, but were scolded l)y Belkassim, or the Khalifa,

and were kicked

enveloped
iu

aside.

Later, several

fell

asleen

their

burnouses and leaning against

the elder men.

When

the negro singer had finished

his

song

FROM GABES TO THE MATMATA MOUNTAINS

it

57

was again the women's tnrn, and they paid him

having ventured to imagine that they might
in

off for

liave

sung

praise of him, a wretched creature,

who

did not even possess a decent l)urnous.

chxrionet again

The drum and

after

did

their

duty

which the negro took up his defence.

They
;

were not to suppose that he was poverty-stricken

and he was the boldest rider amongst the Matmata

(the Khalifa told

me

the

man had

never mounted

a liorse).

When

he appeared in flowing burnous,

the hood thrown l)ack as he sang the war song, he

rivalled the Khalifa himself

when marchino-

to 1)attle.

He and
fashion for

the

women
time.

continued squabbling in this

some
for

No doubt
was

the

women

carried

the

day,

the

negro

finally

shoved back

upon the

spectators,

and hustled by them from one

last

group to another, until at

darkness.
'l\vo

he vanished in the

men

then performed a stick dance to the

tripping time of

drum and

clarionet,

and towards

the end the

women

joined in a song with a chorus.

for rain

They prayed Allah

and a good

liarvest.

Then sang of Mena, the married woman who took

to herself a lover

and paid

for her indiscretion with

her

life;

of the hunter

who bewitched
life
;

a lion with
;

his flute,

thus saving the

of a little girl
;

of

love

of charmino; cavaliers

of the Khalifa

and,

finally, of

myself; but, strangely enough, not of the

58

CAVE DWELLERS
so
far

l)ri(legroom,
sliglitly

as

coiikl

gather,

and very

of the bride.
feast

The wedding
tlie

was to

hist eight days.

On

last the bride

woukl be l)rought home.

During

these eioht (hivs

Mohammed,

the

bridegroom, was
or his father's

not to show himself in either his

house.
friends,

own

He must remain

concealed
at

amongst his

and not attend openly

the rejoicings,

though he was probably present incognito.

At
night.

hast

the

Khalifa

rose

and bade me goodtheir

The men dispersed and went

ways

homewards, the women following.

I

expressed

wish

to

leave

next

morning,
a

and, in accordance with

my

plans, to take

two

days' journey into the mountains to visit a

number

of Berber villaoes, returning afterwards to be again

the Khalifa's guest before finding

my way

back to

Gabes.

The same evening the Khalifa sent an express

courier to the sheikhs of the villages with instructions that
'i'his

should be well received.

I

arranged,

retired

to

rest.
I

As

passed
horse

up the dark underground passage^

and wished

patted

my
I

mv

friends o-ood-nioiit.

The door closed behind me, and soon

was

sleeping as quietly and peacefully in the caves of

the

Matmata mountains

as

should in

my own

bed

at home.

CHAPTER V
Return to Gabes

Hamed woke me

at sunrise.

was soon dressed,

my

saddle-bags packed and coffee heated.

The
been
led

horses

had
from

out

their
stable.

underoround
Outside the
I

dwellino;

met the

Khalifa, comino- evi-

dently fresh from his

devotions as he

still

grasped

liis

rosary.

Smiling, he held out

his

hand

to

take

leave

biddino;
till

me
to-

"Farewell

morrow evenmo-.
As we rode over
the
it
"*^^" ^^'
'

hill,

rider

galloped

up and took the lead

relative,

was Belkassim, the Khalifa's

who was
I

to

show me the way.

followed him, and

lamed

became the arriere garde.

6o

CAVE DWELLERS
There are no springs or wells
in these regions
;

water, therefore,

is

collected in deep tanks.

filling

By one

of these was a

woman

her pitcher.

The rays of the

sim's white burnous

rising sun

gleamed on Belkas-

and the

silver-inlaid

gun which
tlie

lay across his saddlcdjuw, on the tips of

trees,

palm

on the mountain peaks, and on the

woman
saw she
;

at the cistern.

Snatching a rapid glance

at once

was pretty, but she

turned her back

so I

could only admire her slender feet and silver anklets

as she placed the

pitcher on the side of the tank

and drew her blue-striped kerchief over her head,

"

That

is

Mansur's wife

his

only wife," said

Belkassim.

Happy

son of the Khaliftx of

Matmata

When we
and
like

had crossed to the other side of the

vale I turned in

my

saddle
I

she

still

stood there,

in the distance

below

saw her

face indistinctly,

pale spot amidst its dark blue

lonQ- standina;

wrappings.

She remained
us
;

thus and lookino' after

then disappeared, carrying the dull grey pitcher

l)a('k,

on her

and up the slope other blue figures

came

trip[)ing along to the

is

same

spot.
falling, as

The valley
it is

very uneven, rising and

furrowed and cut up by watercourses.

The

palm and

olive trees scattered along these crevasses

are protected by stone enclosures

and

ditches.

Just

as

we passed the

last

dip in the valley

RETURN TO GABES
before
eliiiibiiig

6i

the

hill,

there rushed uut tliree tlogs

which had evidently

I

Ijeeu

watching
it

us.

looked about me, for

l)e

dawned on

my mind
I

that there must

a hal)itation in the vicinity,

in

was right
stretching

for,

by standing
I

my

stirrups

and

my

neck,

got a glimpse of the square

upper rim of a cave yard.

The dogs rushed on Hamed's horse which was

last,

and had

possiljly

approached too close to the

entrance of the dwelling.

that

The attack was

and

so violent

we were obliged

to turn

assist him.

The

furious brutes held fast on to the tail of his horse,

fearing to

come within reach of Hamed's whip

bitino;

but

one of them succeeded in

leg,

the horse's near hindit

drawing blood and laming

!

pleasant be-

ginning to our mountain trip

We
their

dismounted and threw stones at these furious

white sheep-dogs, and at last they retired, showing

teeth

and ready

to

resume the attack the

moment we remounted.
boy appeared and
the
rate
called

Fortunately a
the dogs
I
off.

man and

Believing

man

to

be their owner,

ordered
I

Hamed

to

him soundly and threaten that

to the Khalifa.

would report

what had occurred

The man took

the rebuke quietly, but told us

a poor devil
dog.
"

humbly that he was

who

possessed nothing
of the dwelling

not

even a

The proprietor

was absent.

Then

greet

him

from

us

and say that he

62

CAVE DWELLERS

should have his dogs under better control, or he

will

have the

Lvlialifa after

him."
fold of

The wrongly accused man kissed a

burnous,

my

and we again mounted our horses and

climbed the mountain in a zigzag course, by dithcult paths over loose stones.

Belkassim rode only a few paces in front of me,

yet
I

saw

his

horse above the level of

my

head,

EXCAVATED STABLE.

whilst

Hamed, who was

a couple of paces behind

dragging along his lame horse, appeared to be far

beneath me.

From
and
to a

the

summit

looked back along the valley

hioh undulatino; stretch, where the trees

showed

like spots

on a panther's
to the

skin.

Over the valley

north rose the mountains,

light l)lue

and beyond them stretched an indistinct

plain, melting
fjir

away

into a darker blue

this

was

the sea.

Step by step, slowly but surely, our horses paced

RETURN TO GABES
down
the

63

long valley

into
u})

which

we descended.

Now
flew

and again we put

a covey of partridges that

larks

up the mountain, and the

started

in

couples from amongst the

palms and stones.

We

presently hurried on at the (piick pace to which

the Berber horses are accustomed
as
;

Hamed

singing,

we went

alono-, a sono- that

echoed above us and

on every

side.

Perched on some stones at the bottom of the dry

bed of a torrent were three pretty
little

girls,

who

leaned against the bank and peeped over

it.

shyly at us

Their goats jumped from stone to stone

seeking food amongst the scanty forage atibrded by

the dry burnt pasture.

The

tallest of the little girls ran

I

suddenly away

from the others when

rode towards them.

She

scrambled up the rocky bank like a squirrel, and

paused on the top of a large boulder

black goats following her.

the flock of

She was evidently old

is

enough to know that speech with a strange man

forbidden,

Belkassim tried to coax her down again

he

assured her that the kind stranger would give her

money

if

she would

come

to

him.

But

no, she
w^as

would not respond, remaining where she

calling to the

and

two other
each
I

little
(jtlier,

ones.
in

These pressed
their

nervously against

thin

blue

garments, and, when

oflered

them some

coppers.

64

CAVE DWELLERS

shut their eyes as they extended their hands to

to receive the

me

money, and then took

flight.

We
ino-

were near some native dwellings.

Dogs

barked, under an olive tree stood a donkey munchstraw, and w^e perceived

some of the

familiar

blue figures, which looked nearly black against their

lio-ht

brown surroundings.

In

the

distance their

ornaments glittered

in the light of the setting sun.

it

Belkassim shouted to them to come forward as

was a friend and brother of the Khalifa who wished

to
see

them.

Most of them remained standing

us.

where they were and stared at

apparently
all

The men were

away, either amongst the mountains,

in the

busy with the date harvest, or building tanks

valleys, so

from them there was naught to

fear.

We
I

dismounted and had a chat with the women.

unpacked

my

camera and
girls

tried

to

take

their

portraits,

but these
to

and women are

so restless

that

it is difficult

make them keep

still.

There

was one exception, however, a pretty fresh young

girl

who came

out of one of the dwellings

a cave
at the

like those near

Hadeij

and stared and stared

camera.

An
herself,

old

woman next came

tripping up to offer

evidently of a mind that coppers are w^orth

I

having.

should have preferred her gocd-looking

daughters,

who were engaged

in

driving a restive
this I

camel into the cave passage.

But

saw plainly

RETURN TO GABES
was not to
be, for slie

65

ordered the girls in and placed

I

herself before me,

and

had

to be satisfied.

This was the village of Judlig.

The population
be remem-

cannot be large, but by

bered as the village

me it will always of many women.

Continuing along the base of the valley

for

about

an hour, we then entered another valley through the

great deep bed of a

broad river

now drv

the banks were quite

perpendicular.
river
rak.
is

This

the Sid Bar-

The horses had

in

difficulty

keeping

their

footino'

on the

stony l)ottom.

On
our
halt, so

slio-ht

rise

guide

bade

us
BEUBEU WOMAN
(IF

THE VILLAGE OF

we drew

rein

jui.lig.

while he pointed out

see nothino-.

Sid ben Aissa, but

could

When we
towards
people,
us.

had ridden some way down the

half-score

valley,

we saw some

white

burnouses comins;

These proved to be the Sheikh and his

to bid

who came

me welcome

his

brown-

clad followers walked beside their horses.

In time,

the old greybeards and dark-eyed merry lads joined

our party.
5

66

CAVE DWELLERS
Dogs barked, sombre
clad females with peaked

white headgear peered over the crest of the mound,

and
liid

terrified little children fled to their

mothers and

themselves in the folds of their garments.

Pahn trunks raised

their lofty

crowns towards

A CAVE INTEHIOK.
(From a
sketch by

Knud

Gamhorrj).

the blue heavens, where, on the mountains and in

the valley, they grew^ mingled with olive and

trees,

fig

and the hot

air of

midday quivered about us

as

we made our
The
village
like

entry.

contains
those
of

some
Hadcij,

fifty

underground
about
five

dwellings

and

RETURN TO GABES
hundred inhabitants.

67
to the Sheikh's

The approach
in.

dweUino; was not covered

point of the
hill

From

the

hiuhest

a slope led through a gate to the

great square court.

In addition to this entrance

hillside

from the

slope,

one could enter from the

through a deep excavated passage that ran parallel

with the slope, but naturally at a lower
Close
erected
a
+.0

level.

the point where the descent began was

thatched roof of dry twigs and

palm

branches, supported on four palm tree trunks.

this

On

roof lay red

and yellow bunches of freshly

its

gathered dates, and beneath

shade sat a few men.

My

horse was tied up close by.

Hamed had

told the Sheikh that

wished to see

the interior of a dwelling, so they at once led

into the courtyard

me

and thence into the long under-

ground chamber.
In the courtyard a camel stood chewing the cud.
It

was pushed

aside, fowls fluttered out of

our way,

and a kid and several sheep sprang on to some heaps

of garnered dates, or hid ])eliind the great egg-shaped
reservoirs,

woven

of rushes, used for storing corn.

I

In the caves
eyes

found

it

dark, chiefly because

my

had

l)een

dazzled

by the

daylight

outside.

Within were women, some grinding corn, others

weaving.

None were very young, but

all

were overfriendly
;

laden with ornaments.

They were quite

one

off'ered

me

dates,

another water, only one of

68

CAVE DWELLERS

them, probal)ly a young wife or daughter, hid in

a corner

and turned her back on me.

The children

flocked about

me

without

fear,

one of the boys even

pulling roguishly at

my

Inirnous.

Hamed and the other men had remained outside. Hamed was very proud of having obtained permission for me to see the cave. Usually,
During
visit,

my

he

said,

no strangers are admitted into a house

where there are women.

reception was due as
as to Hamed's.

But

fancy

my

good

much

to the Khalifa's influence

On
soft

our

way

to

the cave

we had passed

the

vaulted guest-room, tastefully excavated out of the

calcareous
soil.

Here
I

stretched myself on

costly

carpets

whilst

ate

my

meal

my

escort

afterwards consuming the remainder.

As

wished to learn

all

particulars concerning

the costume of both

men and women, they brought

in

me

clothes

and ornaments
of those

quantities.

To the

great

amusement

present,

Belkassim was

dressed up in woman's attire, the property of the

Sheikh's
in the
first wife.

Afterwards,

photographed him
Sheikh and his

same

dress, together with the

boys in a group outside the caves.

After a stay of a couple of hours we rode on,

being set on our

way by

the Sheikh and his people.

We now

followed the bed of the river Barrak,

rolling stones

amongst rocks and ridges and over

RETURN TO GABES
and rough pebbles.

69

We

saw a party of women

leave the valley for a deserted village, of which the

ruins

showed waste and grim on the mountain-top.

to

They were taking food up

the

shepherds

in

charge of the sheep and goats there, and would

take adv-'oUtao-e of the cooler air of the heiohts to

have a midday nap

In
olden

in

the

shade of dwelt

the

ruins.

days
it

the

Beni Aissa

on these
for the

heights, but

was very trying, especially

every
;

women who had

came, they

day

to

descend to

the

plain to fetch w\ater

so,

when more
to the

peaceful times

moved down
wound
a

caves at the base

of the valley.

This

valley
so

round

the

foot

of
liad

the

mountain,
pictures(|ue

for

couple

of hours

we
last
stiff

the
lost

ruins to

our right.

At
a

we

sight

of

them,

and

then

l)cgan

ascent

through wild and desolate gorges, and,

finally,

we

clambered up a very steep mountain side where

the
stones
rolled
it

from

under our

horses'

feet.

Hamed
his

thought
follow

too bad, so dismounted, letting

horse

him

while we, by endless zigto

zags,

wound our way

a

the
to

summit.
recover
whilst

Here we
l)reath

w^aited

few moments
to

and
the

give
lovely

time

the

loiterer,

enjoying

view over

the

Matmata

mountain peaks

and

vales.

Once more we descended

into

valley,

tlien

yo

CAVE DWELLERS
up another mountain
side,

toiled

afterwards riding

along the ridge at the summit to reach "Tujud,"

one of the
heights.

eyries

on the top

of

the

Matmata

On

the horizon

we could

disting-uish

the low
it,

land to the south of Gabes, and, beyond

sea.

the
of
it

Farther

east

lay

the

mountain

chain

Jebel

Teboga, a long blue

level

line,

and between
partly

and us stretched a

plain,

concealed

by the adjacent

hilly ground,

of which the ridges

surmounted each other

us,

in unclulatino; lines.

Below

to the north,

was

a deep valley.

Scanning the stony surface of the bridle-path,

I

discovered
the

accidentally

some outlines scratched

of footprints,

on

stones.
I

They were mostly

and
be

later

was informed that these are said to

carved

by pious
the

friends,

in

memory
last

of

the
the

dead, on
deceased.

spot

where they had

met

Tujud lay before

us.

In the

distance
castle

it

re-

sembles somewhat an old

German
usual

of

the

Middle
attached

Ages,

with

the

mass
of

of houses
pile

thereto.

The summit
by
a

the
of

of

dwellings

was crowned
like
l)lack

couple
against

camels,
sky.
:

showing

silliouettes

the

On

the

flat

grey plain, dark

.s2)ecks

were moving

these were

women.
to

The Sheikh came

meet

and

conduct

me

RETURN TO GABES
into the town, through steej) narrow alleys.

yt

The

houses

were

all

built

of

uncut stone,
of

and not
was

whitewashed.
irregular.
little

The

style

building

most

As the rock was very

w^ere

precipitous, the

dwellings

extraordinarily

varied

in

height

and appearance.
with
various
bleating

Their

courtyards
goats,

were
a

crowded
camels,
all

sheep and
chattels,

few

household

braziers,

and

manner
roofs,

of dirt.

In the doorways, and on the

us.

flat

women and children stood watching Of men there were not many at home
season

at

this

they are

probably

mostly

guarding

their flocks on the far plains to the south-west.

On, a lieight close by, were a couple of Mara-

bout tombs with whitewashed walls

distance
to

and

in

the

the

north

we

could

see,

over
Tliis

the

mountain
Zaraua
;

ridg;e,

a villaoje on a heio;ht.

was

and towards the west we sighted another,

Tamezred.

They both looked

like fortified castles.

After a short halt w^e continued our

way towards

Zaraua, the Sheikh giving us a guide, quite a young

fellow.

He

tried to slip
;

ofl"

when we had ridden

lie

about half-way
likely

as

it

was near sunset

most

wished to return to his home before dark.

o;ave

Belkassim

him

sound thrashino-

;ind forced

him

to

go on, as we could not distinguish

the footpath.
hill

the

bridle-road from

When we

reached
at

the foot of the

and could see the

village

72

CAVE DWELLERS
summit,
I

the

dismissed
us.

the

lad,

who

quickly

vanished behind

No one came
near
the

to

meet us

until,

when

quite

town,

young man

at

last

appeared,

wdio w^elcomed me, announcin' that he was a near

relative of the

Sheikh who, he

said,

was absent.
told

Both

Hamed and

Belkassim

me

they

detected an intention to slight mo, therefore they

abused the unlucky fellow because

received
at

had not been

the

the

proper distance
to me.

from

town,

and with the honours due

Twelve years ago these natives

their

tried to assert

independence of French
brave
fellows
fell

rule,

and many of
amono; the
they

the

fio-htino;

here

mountains.

From

that

time,

therefore,

do
;

not entertain a friendly recollection of the French

and they supposed me to be a Frenchman.

ever, they did not openly venture
to the safe to

How-

run counter

conduct the Khalifa had given me, so

;

they went through the forms of hospitality

but
to

my
1

guides were in the

least,

riglit

my

liosts

were,

say the

unwilling.

walked

up a path which
the
precipitous

led
slo])e

towards the
lay

cemetery.

On
the

mound
rested,
laid

on mound, composed of small stones.

perhaps,

Here

defenders

of

their

fatherland,

low by the bullets of the French.

From

the tanks beneath the slopes the

women

RETURN TO GABES
drew water.
tlieir

73
j^itchers

Tliey

oarried

the

huge

on

baeks,
turiiL'd

bound

to their foreheads
face,

by a toweL
it

Each

away her

or concealed

in

her

towel, as they approached us.

The men
;

stood, like

rigid statues, without looking at us

not one extended

the hand of welcome.

We

dismounted on the outskirts of the

village,

and the young man led me into a stinking court and

opened the door of a room that was snug enough,
but where
dirt,

dust,

and spiders reigned.

The
I

atmosphere was extremely musty and disgusting.

at once decided that
I

would not inhabit

it,

and pro-

claimed

my amazement

at their daring to offer

me

such a room.

The reply was that

it

was impossible

to procure

other quarters, and that there were none better to be

found.
I

Knowing

this to be false, I said plainly that

in

would not submit to such treatment, and,

accordance with Belkassim's advice, ordered that a

tent should be pitched outside the house on a small
terrace near the slope.

The young man bent

his

head

in

consent, and soon several

men were

Inisy

sweeping the terrace and driving tent pegs into the

hard OTOund.

Our horses

still

stood

saddled, without anyone

offering to look after them,

and again

had to do
they were

battle for

my

rights, with the result that

stabled and sup|)lied with provender.

74

CAVE DWELLERS
In the meantime I walked

down

the mountain

side, partly

to look about me, partly to allow

my

followers time to fight out matters with the natives.

The sun had

just set as

seated myself on a

stone and looked up to the village above

me

in the

gathering darkness

it

showed
I

as a massive black pile.

On

the

terraces outside
in their

could distinguish dark

figures

engaged

evening orisons.

They bowed

frequently and kissed the ground, and then lay prostrate for

some moments, deep

in prayer.
I

The dogs around me barked, and

could hear the

hammering

in of the tent

pegs,

as also voices in

discussion above me.

Near me was a new grave

;

perhaps of that very day

it

was covered with stones,

and

in the

middle was stuck a bit of stick with a

it,

green rag attached to

to scare jackals

and deter

them from digging up the body.

Presently our horses were led

down

the

hill

by

Hamed, and watered

passed

at to

one of the tanks.

As he

he

confided

me

that

Belkassim had

managed
order.

his business so well that all

was now
I

in

The

latter

had declared that

stranger

was not a

Frenchman, but
friend of
This,
tlie
it

from another land, a

tribe.

Khalifa and of the

appeared, had changed the attitude of the

Zarauar,
several

for,

when

soon after returned to the

tov^-n,

men came

forward and offered

I

me

another
I

dwelling which, after inspection,

accepted.

also

RETURN TO GABES
gniiited
tent.

75

the

pcrmiasioii

they asked

to

strike

tlic

The dwelling

in question evidently l)elonged to

in carpentry, for in the corners

someone practised
lay
Ijits

of wood, knives, axes, etc.

ceiling

The
walls

was of palm stems, and on the stone

platters, bowls, trays,
I

hung a quantity of

and

cooking-pots.

Lighting a candle

stood

it

on a plank,

and threw myself on

my

rugs with

my

saddle under

my
did

head, and fancied myself the owner.

It
it

was long before any food arrived, but when was

excellent.

it

Whilst

I ate,

a knot of people
I

stood at the open door and watched me.

chatted

with them, and in the end we Ijecame ostensibly

good

friends, especially after I

had distributed some

cioarettes.

The public
carried out,

retired
I

when

the bowls and trays were

and

applied myself to writing.

That

being done
to sleep.

I rolled

myself in

my

burnous and went

I

When

had slept but a short time

was

awakened by the sound

of the yard gate rattling.

in the
1

Our

horses,

which stood

gateway, were evi-

dently disturbed.

Then

heard a light footfall on

the pavement outside, and a sound as of someone

breathing near

my

door,

and a few minutes

This
I

after a

fumblino: at the door handle.

could not stand.

Springing up
the door.

quickly struck a match and opened

There,

with

its

head to

my

nose and

76
Ijreathiiig in

CAVE DWELLERS

my

face, stood a

camel

and behind

it

another.

Thank goodness,
Before
sunrise

it

was nothing worse.

started,

we

riding

in

the cool

morning over mountain and vale

a deep stony gorge

to Tamezred.

By

we

arrived at the foot of the

mountain, where the road was so impracticable that

we

all
;

three had to dismount and drag our horses

it

along

took us half an hour to cover a quarter of

a mile.

This Avas certainly the most unapproachable eyrie

I

have seen in the south. From the mountain top the

for miles over hill

view extended

and dale down to

the plains to the south-west in the country of Bir

Sultan, at least forty miles distant.

There the herds

were grazing,

for

no rain had

fallen

on the mountains.

Sheikh El-Hadj Abdallah received us amicably,

and invited

me

to the guest-chamber

a stuffy room
I

where food was brought me.

looked a wonderfully
l:)eautiful

From thence
landscape.

over-

The

inliabitants

spoke the Berber tongue, but

I

also understood Arabic.

tried in vain to cret

some
Ije

Berber manuscripts to examine, but none were to

had, the language being nowadays written in Arabic

characters.

The Sheikh's property

range of
to end.

a square court buildings outside examined

it

wdtli a

low

from end

Within wore women spinning and cooking.

77

RETURN TO GABES
In one enclosure stood a fine bull, in anotlicr
I

79
dis-

covered a number of old flint-lock muskets hano'ino;

amongst keys, yarn, powder-horns, and pomegranates,

all

being spun over with spider webs.

The guns
in-

had prol)ably not

vasion.

been

used since the French

This was the only occasion on which

saw

fire-

arms in any numbers, the Arabs generally concealing

them

often

under their beds so as to have them

handy.
In the
rolled

ouest

room

camel's

hair

tent huno-,

up under the

roof.

When

the

men wander
is

forth after the rainfall to

hunt or to sow, the tent

packed on a camel and taken with them.

The Sheikh informed me that the inhabitants of

Tamezred number some
these about a hundred
five

hundred
can

souls.
;

Of
they
these

men

be armed
in

mostly fight on

foot,

as

horses are rare

mountains
there are

in

Tamezred there are only seven, but

of camels, about a

many hundreds many

hundred

cows, as

small donkeys, and large herds of

sheep and goats.

These graze on the plains,

far

away towards Bir Sultan and Bir Zuamitz, watched

by the men of the
village.
falls, all

When
women go

the rain
off"

the

men and some

and sow

of the
;

to the plains to plough

they

live in tents,

and their sheikhs accompany them and

hunt gazelle and other game.

Only a few old men

8o

CAVE DWELLERS
in

remain

the villages to

guard the

women and

children.
It is not the people of

Tamezred alone who thus

migrate, but also those from other mountain villages,

as Zaraua

and Tujud.

Hadeij, in the

Matmata moun-

tains, feeds its

herds in the plain south-west of the

range beside the course of the river

Wad

Halluf.

The

village of

Tamezred

is

crowned at the top

by a minaret, and lower down, amongst the houses,

are several

Marabout tombs with vaulted

these, the grave of Sid

cupolas.

Only one of
is

Hadj Yussuf,
sunshine
it
;

limewashed and gleams white

in the

the

most part are grey, and at a distance

is

scarcely possible to distinguish the buildings from

the rocks.

On
great

heio-ht

outside

the

villao;e

is

raised

surveyor's

landmark,

visil)le

for

miles,

and

corresponding to others on the peaks of the Mat-

mata mountains.
raised

These points of ol)servation were

officer for

by a French

the purpose of making

a survey, which will surely be carried out ere long.

Having

now

attained

the

most westerly

in-

habited point of the

Matmata mountains, we took

Matmata

an easterly direction, again following steep paths

and deep gorges to reach the

of which Lasheish
is

real

villages,

the largest.

In a deep valley on the

half-score

way we found some

men

occupied in clearing an old circular

RETURN TO GABES
well
this
l)uilt

8i

of imliewii stone.

They

told

me

that

supposed well was discovered quite recently.

It dates

from the time of the Romans, at

it

least so
for
it.

report says, but

may

])e

even more ancient,

no one remembers either having seen or heard of

The sand, which they drew up

was only slightly moist,
so
l)ut

in

rough

Ijaskets,

the fact of

its

l)eing

gave them good hope, though they had already

fifty feet.

reached a depth of over one hundred and

Later
l)e

in

the

day we passed a kubba,

of a

said

to

the

burial-place

female

Marabout.

This

lay,

completely ruined,

on
I

ridge

between two

crests of the mountain.

wanted

to peep in, but

so.

my

guides requested

me
is

not to do

From
them

this point

a view of a wide valley, to

the north of which are the mountains, and behind

lies

Hadeij.

Beyond the range we had

glimpse,

through a haze, of the plains of Gabes

and, far out, of the Mediterranean Sea.

In the valley below stood a whitewashed, square,

cupola-topped Marabout toml), that of " Sid Barrak."

I let

my

attendants go on a
in,

little

in

advance and

sneaked

first

tying up

my

horse outside.

The

room was

square, with a vaulted roof.

In the centre

of the fioor stood a

high square frame of carved

wood, l)eneath which the saint was evidently buried.

In each corner of the frame was stuck a
fiag.

On
were

the

ground,
6

alone;

the

whitewashed

walls,

82

CAVE DWELLERS
pots,

earthem
they

such

as

are used

were

apparently

sooty
lines,

by the negroes Above from use.

circles,

were sketched, in Wack,

that reminded

and figures

me

of the Berber alphabet.

these ornaments in Just as I was copying Belkassim stepped in. sketch-book, Hamed and

my

Hamed

desired

me

to put on

my

burnous and
I left, so
;

draw the hood over

my

head before
I

that

that no one should discover

had entered

and

should put some coins Belkassim suggested that I on the wooden frame, and into a bag that hung offerings of pilgnms, which was provided for the expenses of illuminating the aiven to defray the often celebrated, Marabout's tomb at the festivals I in or near the tomb. he said, l;)y the women
;

did as he desired. the tomb, were dug Outside, in the vicinity of which I crept. underground chambers, into

low

some broken, a few Scattered within was pottery, were They had been used, and there
pieces entire.
also traces of a

fireplace

and smoke

stains

on the

of the roof, all suggestive

above-mentioned

festivals.

murmured Both Belkassim and Hamed when they had finished at the grave, and
tions

a few prayers
their devo-

Belkassim looked we remounted. There was not round as we emerged.

soul
in

carefully

single

sight,

so he

winked mischievously at me,

and we went our way.

RETURN TO GABES

S3

We

were now again on undulating ground of

liard chalk

and

clay, cultivated in

very good ridge

olives.
|

and furrow, and planted with palms and

In the distance we perceived several white spots in

the valley.

These were the Marabouts of Lasheish,

the large troglodyte village.

Meanwhile we were
in

compelled to make a long detour, as we were

most impassa1)le country, cut up

numberless large brooks,
side of great rivers.

as it

was by the
either

always found on

On

a slope

was a

little
it

white limekiln, whence

smoke was

rising.

By
I

were piled large faggots

realise

of wood, seeing which

began to

how much

brushwood must,

in course of time,

have been con-

sumed

in these limekilns,

and then understood why

not, as a rule, white-

the natives of the

Matmata do

wash their houses.

Lasheish
is

not

under the authority of

the

Khalifa of Hadeij, but under that of his colleague of

Gabes.
Hadeij.

In other respects

it

is

exactly similar to

Knowing

that the

women

here weave materials

for burnouses, clothing, towels, and, in fact, all that

appertains to the garl) of the country,

decided

on making some purchases.

The cave

to

which

was conducted became,

of
all

therefore, during the period

my

stay, a regular shop, people

coming

in

from

parts with goods for sale.

84

CAVE DWELLERS
Fortunately,

Mansur

arrived on a visit, partly

for tlic

purpose of inviting guests to the wedding

partly, so as to

feast

accompany mc on
materially
assisted

my way
me
in

back to

Hadeij.

He

making

my many

purchases, and in securing

them

at fairly reasonable prices.

But the bargaining was

for

neither

an easy nor a pleasant task

him, as

our host always sided

with the vendors.

They

quarrelled violently the whole time, and frequently,

before

completing a reasonable bargain,

article

had to
seller's

throw the
hands.
in

repeatedly back
I

on the

gala burnous,

remember, was walked

;

and out of the door seven times

on each occasion

with a decided
before

command

that

it

should not reappear

my
the

eyes unless the price were

first

reduced to

about an eighth of what was

time
the

asked.
little

Each
and
of
a

owner returned, he abated a

renewed.
AVith
the

haggling was
I

air

connoisseur
to

would re-examine the burnous, only

the same conclusion
it

arrive

at

it

was

far

too

dear.

So again

was returned
aside

to the owner,

who

was

at once pushed

by other vendors.
vied with each other in

Belkassim and
shouts of abuse.

Hamed
when

There was a reoular storm, and

the
l:)aro:ainin2;

what

a blessed calm

was ended.
without
lives

The simplest
these
folk

sale

cannot

take

place
if

abusing one another as

it.

their

depended on

RETURN TO GABKS
Not having allowed myself
i-ather risen

85

to be cheated, 1

had

than fallen in the natives' estimation.

])cfore

The men, who a moment

hitter

had seemed to
gnides, and

feel

enmity towards me and

my

who

had often been harshly tnrncd out of the room,

now

sat comfortably in peace

and

(juiet

beside me,

watching

me

eat.
I

After dinner
Ijut

took a turn throuQ;h the

that
I

villae^e,

soon

perceived

was being led about

much

as foreign officers are at great military

man-

ceuvres in Europe,

when they

arc

shown everything
I

except what they are most desirous of seeing.

was, therefore, soon ready to depart
so,
;

all

the more

as

observed that the caves were

of construction
at Hadeij. as those
I

all

on the

same

lines

had already

examined

Just as

we were about
us.

to

mount our

horses, a

man approached
hand.
I

Cringing humbly and miserably,

he dragged himself to

my

horse

and kissed

my
dosf

was told he was the owner of the

which had bitten Hamed's horse yesterday.

He

came

to entreat

me

not to inform the Khalifa of

the occurrence, as he feared he might be cast into

prison.

Having

told
I

him that
spurred

was sure the Khalifa

horse and rode off;
the penitent, wdio

would be
but

lenient,

my

my

reply did not at

all satisfy

rushed to

my

side

and clung

to

my

clothing.

was near being angry, when

my

host came forward

86

CAVE DWELLERS
I

and explained that should the Khalifa hear that

had been molested on the way, the man would

not escape

punishment.

Therefore
I

he

and

the

people of Lasheish implored that

refrain

would entirely

from reporting to the Khalifa the mishap

that had befallen us.

I

glanced

down
;

at the culprit,

and nearly burst

out lauohiiio;
I

he looked so ridiculous.
a

Never do

remember having seen

more hypocritical and

debased countenance.
I

preserved
silence,

my

gravity, however, promised

to

keep

and put out

my

hand to take
it

leave.

Tlie culprit literally snatched

I

to his

mouth, and

heard him

callino-

down

the blessino-s of Allah

upon me.
In

an open

square,

planted with

palms,

the

date harvest was in progress.

The golden bunches

fell

which
of a

iiuno'

on the oreen crowns

to the blows

curved knife.
girl,

Lightly clad men, boys, and

even a young

worked

in the tree-tops

climb-

ing quickly and adroitly up and

surface
of the

down
Below,

the rough

straight

stems.

men and
which

women

collected the Ijunches in great clusters,

they placed in rush panniers, and removed on the

Ijacks of small
It

donkeys.

was

difficult to tear

myself away from this

I

idyll,

but we had to press forward, so

little escort,

hurried up

my

and we marched on over the mountains.

RETURN TO GABES
Maiisur
li;ul

87

much

ditiiculty in

keeping up with

me, being very heavy, and accustomed to ride a

mule rather than

a horse.

There was always some-

thing wrong with his saddle, and he was perpetually

disniountino; to alter first one thing

then another,
l)ehind.

thus

l)eino-

left

farther

and farther

We
was

were obliged at
us,

last to halt, to allow

him

to rejoin

though

time

was

passing,

and

sunset

near.

little

distance from Iladeij

valley, a little

we found,

at the

bottom of the

donkey standing quite

Belkassim said that

alone, feedino; on
if left

some straw.

there at night the jackals would soon

it.

make

away with
It

was almost dark when

village.

w^e

crossed the river

and rode up to the

Again
I

saw the boys romping

in the square

amongst the palms.

ear,

Their glad voices reached

my

and wdien they caught sight of me they ran

to us followed

up

by their barking dogs.

trees,

The men, grouped beneath the came forward

to press
I

rose

and
also

my

hand.

The Khalifa

rose to receive me.

ful trip

thanked him

for the delight-

he had arranged for me.

"
see

am

glad

that you
;

are

satisfied

glad

to

you here again

and that you

will

stay with

me, your brother, even for forty years."

Of course these speeches must not be taken

88

CAVE DWELLERS
they only express
the

literally,

kindly feeling of

the speaker towards oneself.

After

had dined

in

my

cave

sallied

out

to the Khalifa's dwelling to be present, in accord-

ance with his invitation, at the festivities held in

honour of the third day.

As

did not like the old

sit

man
sit

to be inconveniI

enced by having to
I

on a chair because

did

so,

suogested that

we should

too;ether amon2;st

the other men.

To

this he agreed.

Gradually there arrived numl)ers of

all

men from
tightly

the

surrounding

country

these

sat

packed on the banks, as on the previous occasion.

Again the negroes danced, the drums boomed,

and the clarionets screamed

sons,

whilst the Khalifa, his

friendly group

and myself

sat together in a

looking on.

Now
I

and then the women sang, but,

as far as

could understand, neither bride nor bridcOTOom

were mentioned in their songs, certainly not the

latter.

It

was hard

to keep awake.

Belkassim's
it

little
I

son

nestled

up

to

me, and, as

grew

chilly,

wrapped
asleep.

my

burnous about' him, and he was soon

induced
drowsi-

The monotonous music

I

ness

fought valiantly against

did, for
I

it,

which was more

than

Hamed

suddenly found him snoring

in

beside

me, wrapped

his

burnous.

let

him

RETURN TO GABES
repose, but from that

89

moment

conversation betwixt

myself and

my

foreign surroundings

was limited

to

the simplest compliments.

In
invited

the

course
to

of

the

afternoon

the
l)c

Khalifa

me

come back again and

present at
later.

the special bridal festival to be held five days

I

promised to return.

Next morning

the 20th October

I

left
tlie

Hadeij

to ride back to Gabes.

took leave of

Khalifa,

with

many

expressions of goodwill, adding, "

you soon

have

rain,

that

your olive trees

May may

neither wither nor die.

Just

as

we reached the
to follow

first

height,

Mansur,

who had volunteered

out

me

to Gabes, pointed

how

coal-black the heavens were in the direc-

tion of the sea,

and how the

liofhtnino- flashed

and

the thunder rolled, saying, "Allah has heard your

good wish.

It will rain in the

Matmata mountains."
plain,

AVhen we descended into the

pelted
in

the rain

our

faces.

AVe put on our burnouses,

pulled the hoods over our heads, and hurried on.

A moment
cult for

after,

we w^re wet through.

;

Mansur continually lagged behind

him
to keep up,

it

was

diffi-

and he begged us to

ride

on without waitino;

for him.
;

Once

w^e

passed a shepherd with his flock

all

the

sheep were

huddled together, the goats apart,

whilst he had taken shelter under a bush.

go

CAVE DWELLERS

We
I

crossed a couple of river beds which,

when
;

passed a few days ago, had been dry and parched

now

the water rushed over them in a rapid stream.

horses crossed easily, and
I

However our
at

started

gallop,

pushing

quickly
flying

through

rain
ears,
I

and
till,

slough, with the

mud

up to

my

the ground presently growing too slippery,

again reduced to going at foot's pace.

was

The palm grove of El

the rain, but before
river

Hamdu

gleamed through
the oasis the

we could reach
bushes
I

had to be
and

crossed.

The ford amongst the

tamarisk
l)ut

oleander

we found

easily,

the torrent ran high.

urged

my

horse fortill

ward, and he went slowdy through the water

he suddenly slipped and

middle.
I tried

fell,

whetting

me

to

the

to turn
side,

him back, but the current

at last
I

swept us to the

and

gave up the

struggle, being afraid that

my

books and sketches

might get wet.

Then

caught sight of Hamed, and

saw

his

horse,

which was laden both before and

behind the saddle with

my
I

purchases,

plunging

about in the swirling stream, and splashing the water in every direction.
])ack.

shouted to him to turn

We
way
up,

then followed the course of the river a long

and

tried to cross several times, but with-

out success.

herd of

little,

thin, ])rown cattle

walked along

RETURN TO GABES
the l)anks
;

91

tliey

had got separated, and some were

river.

on either side of the

They had apparently

no guardian, and were evidently endeavouring to

rejoin each other.

Oecasionally one of them would

plunge into the water, only to be driven hack to

the l)ank by the current, and

we heard the

dis-

tressed bellowing of the divided herd.

At
l)road,

last,

at

spot where the river was very

in

we succeeded

crossing without

mishap,

but the water reached above the horses' girths.

We

then returned along the banks to the ford,

for half

where we waited

an hour before Mansur's

white horse appeared on the opposite shore.

rain poured

The

down

incessantly,

and our horses pawed

the ground impatiently, eager to get on, but

we

were compelled to wait to direct Mansur where to

cross.

"

To the

left

to the left
his

"

we shouted

Init

Mansur had drawn

burnous so closely over his

till

head that he could neither see nor hear, and not

he was close to the river were we able to attract his

attention
;

then he also crossed safely, and we con-

tinued our way.

In the neii2;hbourliood of the oasis

we could hear
rain-

the El
fall.

Hamdu
it

folk crvinii-

and lamentino- the

oasis

The date harvest of the

was
is

was not ended,

and, until
dates.

over, water

was injurious to the and the barley

What

good

for the olives

"

92

CAVE DWELLERS
palms, the chief source of
All over the

fields is injurious to the

subsistence of the people of the oases.

world the aoricul turist

Involuntarily
a
I

is

the same.

recollected a certain old fellow,

in a

countryman of mine,
at
his

town
one

in Jutland,

who,

sitting

dinner-table

day,

complained

loudly that the Almighty had

the poor country folk and sent
for their rye-fields
stant, there
;

not

taken pity on
a little rain
in-

them

when, at the very same

was a loud clap of thunder, and rain

suddenly pelted
at

down without any warning.

up,

He
gone

once jumped

rushed to the window and

!

exclaimed, " Oh, the devil

to
!

now

all

my

peat

is

Step by step our horses splashed on through the

puddles
pace
; ;

it it

was almost impossible to quicken our

so

was

late in the

day when we reached

Gabes, to find everything standing in pools.

The
years,

river

had not been so swollen

for

many

and had done much damage.

Luckily, neither

my

sketches nor

my

purchases

had

suffered.

CH APTER VI
Of the Matmata Mountains and their
Inhabitants

The Matmata mountains form

line, follows

the

northern spur

of the comparatively small range which, in a curved

more

or less the

bend of the

coast.

Leaving a low stretch of land between

the sea, this range runs
first

itself

and

along the coast-line to

the south of Jurat (of which more hereafter), then

continues right into Tripoli, being broken only at

intervals.

tlere and there

it

is

inhabited by Berber tribes,

in

who

are indeed

Mohammedans, but have

great

measure retained unchanged their primitive habits

and customsT^j
In the mountains Ghurian and
Jefren, to the

south of Tripoli, are found the brave indej^endent

kinsmen of the Berbers of Tunisia.

They

recall

with pride the exploits of their ancestors, and rear

their sons to be a free people
fore

and

to labour.

There-

they have maintained their intelligence and

superiority,

intellectual

and
not
93

have

been

able

to

defy foreign rule, though

always with

equal

94
success.
all

CAVE DWELLERS
For example, in the Jebel Jefren originated
disturbances wliicli

the

have occurred during

the Turkish occupation of Tripoli.

North

of

Jebel

Jefren

is

Jebel

Nefusa,

also

inhabited by Berbers, some of

whom
the

speak a dialect
Tuareg.

resembling
greater

the

language
of

of

The
to

proportion
of

these are

supposed

be
the

descendants

the Libyans,

who connuered

country before the Arabs, and who, like these

last,

came

also

from the East.

It is

the custom

among some
for a

of the Nefus tribes,

in

common with

that of the Ulcd Nail of Algeria,

that their

young women,

time before marriage,

This practice

abandon themselves to prostitution.

naturally reminds one of the ancient cult of Astarte.

Tarik, conqueror of the Spaniards,
a native of Jebel Nefusa.

was a Berber,

Perchance he was one

allegiance to Jewish

of the race

who had owned

rate, after

sway.

At any

he conquered Spain, the

Jews there were treated by him with marked consideration.

In his case,

as

in

that of so

many

Berbers
of

who were drawn

into the

mighty current
fanatical

Mohammedanism, they never became

Moslems, and the same

day.
I

may

be said at the present

Though

indeed,

like

their

kindred

race

the

Tuareg, they became

of

Mohammedans

(perhaps

many

them had been under Christian

influence

at

M ATM ATA MOUNTAINS

least there are
sigii.s

95

of it)(_tliey are not fanatics.

order,

They

have no special religious

fifth

and they
are

belong to the so-called

acquainted with any

sect,

and

un-

ritual. _~27

/Not
" Jebel

few of these Berbers reside in

"

caves,

Ghurian

meaning
these

literally

"the Mountain
became
;

of

Caves."

Before

cave
altars

dwellers
to

Mohammedans, they
according
to

raised

God

and,

travellers,

very ancient stone monu-

ments, dating from a period previous to that of

the Arabs, are to
regions._^

be found

everywhere

in

these

They resemble those found

in Algeria, in

Andalusia, and even in Brittany.

The language of the country on the borders of

Tripoli
It
is

and Tunisia
probable
that

is

partly Arabic, partly Berber.

in
earlier

times

the

Berber

tongue was spoken from Jebel Jefren over Duirat

to

Matmata.

Books written
to
l)e

in
;

the Berber lanouaae are not

found here

so far as

we know (manuscripts

have been discovered on the island of Jerba), the

Berber dialect being written in Aral)ic characters.
I

ascertained
is

that

the
in

lansjuao-e

of Southern

Tunisia

still

spoken

the villages of Zaraua,

Tamezred, Tujud, Shenini, Ghermasi,

(as

and Duirat
in

also

on the island of Jerba), and

part

of

Uroiiamma.

From

Jebel Jefren to the

Matmata mountains.

96

CAVE DWELLERS
closely

the lively natives

resemljle each other

dispositions,

in

their expressive eyes,

smile.

happy

and ready

Contrasted with the Arab, their countenances

are shorter and broader, and their hair less black.

LT^liey are essentially a free racej

An

assembly

of the people in the villages of Southern Tunisia,

known

as

the

" Miad," settles

tribal

questions,
is

according to a local code (kanun) which

based

on ancient rules and customs, and

highly revered than the Koran.

is

even more

As

aral)le

land
the

is

extremely valuable, and the

barren
it

inhabitants

of

mountains

are

com-

paratively numerous,

has been the custom from

least,

time immemorial, in Southern Tunisia at

the young
to earn a house,

that

men

should go to the coast towns in order

to

money, wherewith, on their return,

palms, cattle, and a wife/;

buy
this

alike in

respect to the Savoyards and Auvergnats

their hearths

who

quit

and homes

for a time.

In the towns these mountaineers live with the

utmost frugality, sleeping generally by the roadside,

and earning

their bread

by

all

sorts of work,
etc.

such as water-carrying, domestic service,

When in 1881-1882
to find that

the French

army invaded the

mountains of Southern Tunisia, they were astonished

many

of the natives spoke French.

are brave

The "Ksar" dwellers

accustomed to

and hardy, and

Their

"hear the powder speak."

MATMATA MOUNTAINS
(lulight

97

used to be to sally out on n

for
all

raid,

when they
They were
fell

made matters hot

eoncerued.
in

not ordinary thieves

no,

weapon

hand they
feel

on their adversaries, wlio could never

secure

from a

coiq^ de

main.
they, in their inaccessilde and

l_On the other hand,

fortified eyries,

were prepared to defend themselvesTl

Their plundering raids extended over the Tripoli tan

frontier,

even as

ftir

as

Rhadames.

They

always plundered thoroughly.

that

Dr. Bertholon states

in

when

he,

as military surgeon, served

tliey

the
all

campaign against them,

the herds,

not only seized

but even the clothes of their victims.

So completely did they strip prisoners, that these

would be

left

with

only a scrap of shirt which

barely covered them.

The people of the adjacent

oases on the plain

and towards the " Shotts," who are more peaceful

and phlegmatic, the circumstances of their
lives

being better, have often sufiered from the attacks

and depredations of the mountaineers, when they

have not chosen to purchase immunity by paying
blackmail to the
latter.

Dr. Bertholon maintains that

monogamy
leads

is

usual
to

amongst them,
different

Ijut

my

ex|)erience

me

conclusion,

since

the

men_ of rank with

generally
several

whom
wives.

came

in

contact had

gS

CAVE DWELLERS
abduction uf
times,

\_ Tlie

women was

nut

uncommon

in

earlier

when

the armed inhabitants of the

their wives Ijy force.^

Ksar used to carry

ofl'

^^[^That they had to guard their

is

women

carefully

not strange, since these have the reputation of

being; lio-ht of morals, -i

One custom
it
is

is

universal amongst these people

that at the weddino; the brideo-room shows his

bride a heavy stick, of which one end that he holds

to

her nose

is

thoroughly and sweetly scented.

Tlie interpretation of this

custom being that so long

Ije

as she conducts herself properly, her life will

mild

and pleasant
should
she

like the scent

but, on the other hand,

misbehave she
I

may

be sure of being
sticks at Tatuin.

well punished.

saw one of these

As
in

wished to form some idea of the manner

which a family lived and worked together in the

I

small troglodyte communities,

took advantage of
to

my

stay

with

the

Khalifa of Hadcij

procure
life

information regarding his family and the

led in

they

common.
I

These inquiries
discretion, for I

had

to

make with the

greatest

would not

for the

world have given

them
that
I

a chance
I

of misjudging me, or of supposing

to spy.
till

had come amongst them

I

By

degrees

put together what

is,

saw and heard

the whole the

picture

may

venture to say, correct in

main, though some of the minor details

may have

MATMATA MOUNTAINS
been misumlerstood
observation.

99

by me, or have escaped

my

Sadi-ben Mansur-Fatush, as Khalifa of the mountains,

exercises authority

over the vilhxges of the

Matmata

range.

He
is

is

born of the tribe of Uled

is

Sliman, of which his son

a tribal sheikh.

The Khalifa
of age, and
Sasia.

between sixty and seventy years

three wives, Mena, Fatima, and

has

By the first he has two sons, Amar and Mansur. By tlie second, one son, Mohammed. He
has probably daughters also
;

if so,

they are married

and

live at a distance,

and no longer interest either

I

their family or tribe.

tion as to
itself.

could not gain any informa-

whether any had married within the tribe

Sheikh
Aisha,

Amar

has two wives

the

first is

named
sons,

the

second

Meriam.

He

has

two

Abderahman (by Aisha) and JMahmud (by Meriam).

Mansur, wdio bears the
title

of " Adel

"

(notary)

of the Uled Sliman, has only one wife,

named Uda,

and no

child.

Mohammed,
is

" Kateb

" (scribe) to

the Uled Sliman,

wife
is

his

father's

secretary.

His

first

called

Meriam, and by her he has a son

Hamed.
is

His

second wife, to wdiom he was married during

stay in Hadeij,
is

my

called

Mena

she

of the Uled

Sliman, and a native of the village that bears the

name

of that tribe.

lOO

CAVE DWELLERS
The age of the
Khalifa's sons

may

be on an

average about twenty-two, none of their wives being

probably over twenty.

Of the children
is

of these

marriages the eldest of the boys

old.

about five years

l^he

Khalifa's himily, therefore, consists of about

a score of souls, who, as will be seen further on, live

MANSUK.

together
bers of

but to these must be added other

memand of

tlie

household, negroes and servants with

their children,

and a number of near

relatives,

men who

attach themselves to the Khalifa's service.

Many
possess

of the latter have

homes of
and

their

own, and

palms, olive trees

cattle,

which they

farm on their own account, but being dependants of

the Khalifa must help

him

to

sow and reap

his corn,

MATMATA MOUNTAINSprune his palms, gather the dates and

the
oil,

,ify<

olives, press

and, in short, do any

work of which they

are

capaUe/1

<^he Khalifa

is

very

ri(;li.

lie

owns many underoil

ground dwellings, barns, stables and

mills,

but

large proportion of the profits of all these

must be
the

exj^ended
infinity

in

providing food and shelter for

of

people

whom
all

he protects^
his

His large
will

landed property and

divided,

possessions
his

be
at

when he

dies,

amongst

sons,

who

present

own only what

l)ut after

the old patriarch chooses to

his

give them,

death each will have his

his

own palm and

cattle
;

olive

trees,

own

house

and
in

unless

they prefer to

continuel__living

fellowships

The

Khalifa's property

is

valued at some two

hundred thousand francs

a pretty penny for^Tmounclifls

taineer livinQ- anion o-st l)arren hills devoid of either

springs or wells, but where the

and valleys are

furrowed with channels to conduct the rain-water to

cisterns,

and where every

it

tree

must have the earth

banked about

that the water

may

lie

at its footj

^e
idea of

will

now examine

the dwelling used by the

Khalifa and his family, and endeavour to form an

how
;

the various married couples are accomascertaining

that,

modated

thus

notwithstanding

patriarchal
life,

house-government
group has
its

and

community
portion,

of

each

little

own

however

'

.Vi.

'

CAVE DWELLERS
own
exclusive

small, of the dwelling set aside for its

use>|
("The
soil

in

tlie

valley of Hadeij

is

composed of

strong clay and marl, which lend themselves admir-.

ably
to

the

excavation

of

regular

well

shaped

chambers.

These have an advantage over dwell-

ings built above ground, in that they are cooler in

summer and warmer

to

in winter, besides being easier to

defend

they are not open

discovery

by

strange, unaccustomed eyes,

tion against thieves

and

afford

good protec-

and robbers,

for cattle can also

find shelter within them?^

uThe formation
extends over low

of the valley
hills

is

undulating, and
level
in

divided

by smooth

ground or by narrow gorges, where streams flow

the
rainy
season.

Seen

from

the

mountain, the
with faint
olive

whole looks
paths,

like a great sand-pit scored

and with depressions where the

and

palm
/

trees

grow amongst the mounds. ]

a dwelling
is

The plan of

as follows

From
the case

the side of a

hill,

and through the

solid

earth, leads an

underground path
be

long
is

or short, as

may

and

quite the height of a man.

This takes one to the ground-level of a large square

excavation, open overhead, which

generally

dug

in

the highest part of the

hill,

and forms the courtyard.

The

walls of this court are perpendicular

and smooth.
enters

From

the

ground

level

of

this

cave one

p,.i(h.
's \
fV~

-^

IS?

J(

If"

C^

^f-'Jtl.

ae

Section

ft-7i.

.
Section
r-;?.

;:^.M:^lSM$i%i^
I

SECTIONS OF PWF.T.TJNf; IN MATMATA WIIEKF,

T.IVFD.

I'LAX.
103

MATMATA MOUNTAINS

105

through an opening, a somewhat long underground

chaml^er with a vaulted roof, like that of
vault.
a-

wine

Tliese

chambers are used either as

stores,

stables, or dweJling-places.

The

courtyards

measure,

as

rule,

between

eleven and twelve feet in depth and breadth.

The

side caves are usually about twenty-seven

feet long, but not

I

even half that in breadth

l^oth larger

though
These

have seen them

and smaller.
doors.

rooms are generally furnished with

passage also
is,

The

as a rule, closed at both the outer

and the inner end by means of a strong door or

gate.

In the court

is

a fireplace intended for

is

common
of
a,

use

in

wet weather the cooking

done

in one
is

the underground rooms.

Further, there

often

tank into which water

earth's surface.

is

conducted by pipes from the

sides of the court stand large

At the
filled

rush

baskets

with corn, and sufficient space

remains for fowls and domestic animals, when, under

special

circumstances,

such

as

threatened

danger,

these are driven within.

Here and there

in the passages are recesses for

stabling horses and donkejs, which stand therefore

in utter darkness.

In a cave chamber
closed, otherwise there

it
is

is

dark when the door

is

sufficient light.

The accompanying sketch shows some of the

io6

CAVE DWELLERS

dwellings inhabited by the Klialifa and his nearest

relatives.

From
olive

the

flat,

smooth, open space grown with

passage to the court-

and palm

trees, leads the

yard. Dwellino-s
I.

and

II.

are united,

and
is

]iave l)ut

one entrance.
to

Through the gate (A)

the entrance
first

a cave passage,

and thereby to the

court:

yard.

Here are

to be found the following

chambers

One

for the horses,

is

one

for the sheep,

one containing

a tank, another

a kitchen, and, lastly, a store.

From

the

first

courtyard

one passes through

II.

another cave passage into courtyard No.

provides dwellings for
their wives
all

This

the Khalifa's sons with

for

and children, and

the mothers of

these sons.

The Khalifa himself

jacent cave in

resides at night in an adhis third wife, but both

company with

spend the day with the rest of the family in courtyard No.
II.,

where they cook and eat

I

in

common.
live

As

far

as

could

ascertain,

no domestics

here.

This courtyard
for corn,

is

furnished with rush

baskets

and with a
has two
his

fireplace.

Amar
wives
;

chambers, one for each

of his

and

mother has another

close by, so they

occupy a whole side of the court.

Two chambers

are used as barley stores.

MATAIATA MOUNTAINS

107

Fatima, Moliammed's mother, has a room, and

beside
it
is

another to which

Mohammed's second

wife was brought.

Exactly opposite lives

siile,

Moham-

med's
his

first wife,

and, on the same

Maiisur and

only wife.

Last of
I

all

comes the kitchen.

;

visited all these caves

each

woman had

her

household pots and pans prettily arranged on the

inner wall of the chamber, as our cooks do their
brass utensils on their kitchen walls.
sides

Ranged on the
the centre of

were various

articles,

while

in

the clay Hoor, adorned, as a rule, with rush matting

or with carpets, stood
table.

what appeared

to be

a low

This

is

the sleeping couch, on which carpets

are

generally

spread

on

this

the

inmates sleep

without undressingT}

Cfhe whitewashed
etc3,
'

walls are bare but for the giins

which are sometimes hung there, as also keys, yarn,

Jn

Mohammed's and Mansur's rooms

saw some

frightful

framed pictures, apparently supposed to

rul)lish

represent the Prophet, and evidently cheap

bought

at

Gabes, corresponding in

all

respects to

the coloured prints of the Christ which

we

find in

every cottage in our country^

VJThe comfortable cave rooms, and even the courtyard, were clean and well kept.

The
it

fowls, indeed,

had the run of yard No.

IT.,

but

was evidently

io8

CAVE DWELLERS
to cattle,

forl)icl(]en

which were restricted to the

first

ynrd.
a long undergroniKl passage, provided with
for horses
;

By
side

recesses
III.

and donkeys, one entered

yard No.
ing
hall,

its

chambers included a large banquetof

the roof of which was composed

vaults,

two

parallel

supported where they met by a

pillars.

central
entire

row of
side

This hall occupied

to
it

one

of the court, and opposite

I

were

two rooms, used when

bers
;

was there as guest-cham-

one of these

occupied.
;

They could
end a shaft

also be
is

utilised as corn

stores

to

tliis

dug

from the surface, through the solid earth to the

dome, so that the corn

may

be poured down
it is

and

when the camels bring the

the

grain,

unloaded near

mouth

of the shaft.
tw^o

Near the entrance to the passage are

also available as stores for grain, but

rooms,

during

my visit

they were used as dwellings for several male servants.

In yard No. IV.
live'd

a negro family,

who were
the

entrusted with the care of

Mohammed's and Amar's

belonejinoj to

two horses, and the two mules

Khalifa
Tliere

and
also

Mansur which were

a corn
store,

stabled

there.

was

where the barley for

the horses and mules was kept, a writing-room, and

a tank.

These four yards were used indiscriminately by

the Khalifa and his household.

MATMATA MOUNTAINS
Now we come
and VI.
to the

109

two other

dwellino-s

V.
;

In one lived a cousin of the Khalifa

the

other was occupied by an old fellow called Uncle

Srair
Feteish,

under the same conditions

as

the

courts already mentioned.

little

farther

off

was the dwelling occupied

wife
;

by the

Khalifti

and

his third

this

was

also
side.

composed of subterranean rooms, two on either

One
and

of these chambers was occupied by the Khalifa

his third wife,

one

l)y

an Aralj servant, another

in, a

was used to keep clothing

fourth as a kitchen,

two others

as stores

for dates,

and the

last

as a

writino'-room.

Owing
a certain

to his ofticial

position, the Khalifa

has

amount

of correspondence, and therefore

requires a proper place in which to preserve docu-

ments.

These are

all

written in Arabic characters

the Berber alphabet being

unknown
the

in Iladeij,

and

but

little,

believe,
in
it

in

whole of
villages

Southern
Berber
it

Tunisia.

Though
is

many
is

the

language
appears

spoken,

not in
in

Hadeij, where
of

to

be

forgotten

spite

the

natives

being Berbers.__J

The above-mentioned dwellings

are

far

from

being the only ones possessed by the Khalifa, for

both in Hadeij proper and in the environs he owns

several houses occupied

by

his retainers.

He

also

owns

caves, reserved for his

occasional

use, in

the

no

CAVE DWELLERS
of palms

vicinity of his distant groves

and

olives,

when,

as

in

harvest

time,

the

trees

have to be

watched.

The caves that

saw

in

the

Matmata mountains

were, with few exceptions, of the same description.

Of these exceptions may be mentioned the caves

found in Sid ben Aissa.
so that one

To these

led uncovered ways,

had a direct view into the courtyards from

Also at Beni Sultan
I

the outside.

observed steps

that sloped from the upper surftice to the courtyard,

rrhe rooms
trical
;

in this

instance were not

so

symmetlie

many
level as
it.

of

them were not excavated on

court,

same

the

but were raised a few

steps above

This very irregularity rendered these

caves more picturesque and interesting! than those of

Hadeij.

In the enclosures were several tanks, and in the

rooms

saw women spinning with wheels.

to

The approach

these houses was

soil
;

by means of

steps cut in the calcareous

where the steps

terminated was a gate by which one passed into a

fine vaulted

underground chamber, and thence into

the courtyard.

The Sheikh
mill, erected in

of Beni

Sultan owned also an

oil
its

an underground cave, that, with

vaults and colonnades, closely resembled the crypt

of a church.

In one of these vaults

l)y

saw the

mill,
is

which

is

worked

donkey or a camel, and

M ATM ATA MOUNTAINS

composed of
;i

iii

large round stone turning on

ii

broad

low stone cylinder,

in a neigldjouring vault close

oil press.

by was erected

a primitive

In Duirat, the most southern vil]ao;e of Tunisia,

I

found caves of

rather

different

description.

pTliese were of the same dimensions as the chaml)ers

already described, and were cut in the sides of
cliffs.

Before

the

door of the

caves

an

enclosure

was

frequently made, and within

this

stood

house,

through the centre of which was a passage leading

into the cave.
!

CThis
in

style of buildino-

has the advantao'e that

summer

the natives can seek the shelter of the

it is

cave,

where

cooler

than

in

the house

and,

again, should
retire

the

house be attacked,
entrance

they could

into the
\

cave, the

being easy to

defend.
L^'

That the dwellings are not

from
the
fact in

all

caves probably
is

arises

that

there

not always
tlie

sufficient

space

the

mountains
to

for

many
the

large

chambers required

accommodate

number
;

of people.

The cave

is

the original dwelling

house followed as an appendage.

The hedged-in

enclosure mentioned can be utilised as a shelter for

cattleTj

Near Tatuin

noticed, in passing, a rock cave

It

that was merely an irregularly dug hole.

inhabited.

was

12

CAVE DWELLERS
In the mountains I discovered several of

the

same description,
in

Ijut

nninlial)ited

being occupied
olives

harvest time,

when the dates and

need

guarding.

At

Tujan

saw,

excavated

in

the

cliffs,

several ancient

caves with

small terraces in front

^^

-ft

MEDININ.

of

them;

they

had

long

heen

abandoned

as

dwcllino;s.

Lastly, I

must touch

briefly on< a

mode

of ])nild-

ing found on the plains,^ in the villages of

Metamer

and Medinin, and"^vidently deriving

the caveTj
[Small, oblong,

its

origin from

domed houses

are built side

by

MATMATA MOUNTAINS
side
ill

115

square, thus formino-

a eomplete

citadel
;

of exactly the same form as a cave dwelling

the

plan of cave construction having been copied above-

ground.^
In Southern Tunisia there
villages, such

are

numerous large

as

Hadeij, Lasheish,
as,

Ben

Aissa,

be-

sides

some

smaller,

for instance, Judlig,

which

are composed exclusively of cave dwellings.

Moreover, caves are found mingled with other

dwellings in Beni Sultan, Smerten, and Sguimi.

LCave dwellings therefore prevail

in the valleys,

and

real houses

on the mountains^

LFinally, the

more primitive caves

are found on

mountain

slopes, as, for instance,

at Duirat.

The

villafi^es

that consist of houses are of stone

or sun-dried blocks of clay.

They

stand, as a rule,

high on the mountains, and

of the
villao:es

much resemble

those

Kabail in

Alo-eria,

or the ancient

French

on the mountains of AuverQ;ne.

CHAPTER

VII

Feom Gabes to the Oasis of El Hamma The Shotts

Just after
I

had changed

my clothes,
l)e

the hotel waiter

announced that a sheikh wished to see me, who,

when ushered
him came
serious that

in,

proved to

Mansur

following
so

Hamed,
I

They both looked

very

feared something had gone

wrong

but

Hamed,

observing

my

puzzled

expression,

wliispered to

me

that Mansur had come to invite

feast.

me
sat

to the

wedding

After

had returned Mansur's greeting, we both

I

down, he on the bed crossdegged,

on a chair,

Hamed showed some tact by placing himself behind me to serve as interpreter, for Mansur
while

understood

little

French.
wliicli

After an interchange of compliments,

were

indubitably sincere on either side, Mansur came to

the point.

His father, the Khalifa, had desired

1

him

to

say, that if

woidd go to Hadeij and be

fifth

present at the last great feast on the

day, he

would regard

it

as

proof of
;

my
I

friendship for

him and

for the

Matmata

that

should be treated

116

FROM GABES TO EL HAMMA

as a l)rotlicr,

117

and

if I

would remain there many,

many

years

should be welcome.
to see

Mansur came again the following day

with him and

me

Hamed
I

visited the villacfes of Jara

and Menzel, where

intended making purchases for

AT GABES.

our National Museum, and therefore required their

help.

In the great Sok (market-place)

cultural implements, hoes

bought

agri-

and spades,

which were
;

made under
and
its

my

eye,

one

of the primitive ploughs

harness of plaited esparto grass

and, lastly,

a collection of garments.

Consequently there was

ii8

CAVE DWELLERS
noise

much
In

und

lively quarrelling,

though

it

did not

reach quite the same pitch as recently in Lasheish.

the

afternoon

took a carriage

with the

British A^ice-Consul Galleja

Galleja,

and

his l)rother, Cesare

two exceedingly obliging men, and drove

I

to

the villaoe of Menzel, as

reliable information

wished to

ol)tain

some

from an Arab there, about the

marriage customs of the country.

On

our return

we met

the Khalifa of Gabes,

who

told us he

was

also invited to the

wedding

at Hadeij,

but had been obliged to refuse as he could not leave

Gabes, General Allegro being absent
;

therefore in

the interim, the government of the whole district

fell

entirely

on

himself.

He

advised

me

to take

with
1

me

a small bridal gift, so the

fine haik.
officers

same evening

bought a

The military
unmarried.

at

Gabes are nearly

ffrade

all

Those of the same

to say, they

mess too'ether

that
for

is

engage a cook who provides

them.

The
Battalion

lieutenants

of

the

4th

African
invited

Lio;ht

and some other

officers

me

to

dine at their mess.

of men,

We

were altogether a score

and

spent a bright and pleasant evening

African friends
;

amongst

my new

and made acquaint-

ances which w^ere to be renewed some days later in

the south, whither several of
proceeding.

them

w^ere

immediatelv

FROM GABES TO EL HAMMA

Tilis

119

was the

first,

but not the

hist,

time that

while

ill

these regions had the pleasure of replying

to the toast of

"To

the Danish soldier," with "

drink long

life

to the French army," with

whom

served eleven years ago

the south.

when they were

fighting in

On

the 22nd October,

Hamed and
dawn
at

again

left

Gabes, starting with the

5.30 a.m., and

proceeding this time in a westerly direction.

The Spahis had supplied me with a small but

powerfully
-

built

brown
six miles to

horse,

capable

of

pacing

between

five
it

and

an hour when so inclined.

I

At

first

wanted

hurry on, but

village

restrained

it,

and we walked past the

of Meiizel,

and

traversed the palm groves, where the birds twittered,

and the smoke from huts and tents

tops.
It

rose to the tree-

was

bitterly cold,
us.

and we wrapped our

burnouses closely about

When we

rode out of

the oasis the sun had risen, and cast our shadows in

long lines on the undulating golden-grey plain.

Far away to our right the rays of the sun were

refiected

from the whitewashed walls of a Marabout's

hillside.
is

tomb, built on a
poste
optiqua,

There also stood

in

the

which

communication

with

another on a mountain near Medinin, the southern

military station.

AVe allowed our horses to break into a hand

gallop that refreshed us in the beautiful morning,

1:20

CAVE DWELLERS
with a keen sense of enjoyment,
with

as,

we

followed

tlie

tracks that,
tlie

countless windings, led towards

west.

There was

little

vegetation

the land lay before

us barren and desolate.

IN

THE MOUNTAINS

ON

THE KOAD TO AIN IIAMMAM.

Before reachinor the summit of a slioht

rise

we

pulled up our horses to a walk, and presently looked

back from

tlie

top of the eminence.

;

A
them

haze hung directly over Gabes

the palms of

the oasis extended as far as the sea, and behind

glittered

the

bright waves.

Away

towards

the south

we could

distinguish the blue peaks of

FROM GABES TO EL HAMMA

the

121

Matmata mountains.
smoke

Here and
air.

tlierc

on the

phiin l)lue-grey

rose into the

The heat of the sun became scorching,

so

we

allowed our horses to go at foot's pace during the

remainder of the way.

paces

In Africa one finds but two

a walk, or rather

an amble, and a gallop

but on a long
is

summer journey
;

the gallop or canter

rarely used

Berber horses, therefore, are trained

It
is

to

walk

fast.
lie

expected

of a

die val

de la
is

plaine that

should be un hon marcheur, that

to say, that he can

five or six miles

be depended on to cover his

this

an hour, and to keep up

pace

the whole day long.

When we
we

had ridden about

;

a third of the

way,

crossed the river

near

it is

an ancient well that

has been used since the time of the Romans.

From

the level of the ground was constructed a

;

walled, paved, and inclined passage

in,

this

was covered

and terminated at the spring, from which were

upright
walls
to

l)uilt

the

surface

of the
-

earth,

forminjT;

the well.

Thus the water can

or carried

either

be

drawn from the top

up the

steps.

During the next couple of hours we met only a

few riders and pedestrians,

mountain plateau of no great height nowus, l)ut a little to

showed before
the north
it

our

left.

Towards

lost itself in the plain in a level slope,

over

wdiicli

wound the

track.

122

CAVE DWELLERS
On
the
hill

the

soil
flat

was washed or blown away,

rocks naked, and the horses

leaving the barren

had

difliculty in

keeping their footing amongst the

In one place the path

large rough stones.

wound

on either side of

a small pile of stones.

This heap
west.

was the length of a man, and lay east and

Hamed
one

informed

me

that

it

covered the remains of

this

who had been murdered on

After a time

spot

many

years ago.

we reached the highest

came upon
a

point of

our day's journey, and

view.

magnificent

The foreground was composed

slope of dull-yellow
a
long,
is

of a level, stony
it

soil.

Where

ended we saw

narrow, grey strip with a tufted border

this

part of the palm grove of El

it,

Hamma

oasis.

Beyond

to the left

therefore

to the south-west

ran a mountain
This
sea
is

ridge,

and farther on the right was

in appearance.

a shining level plain,

somewhat white
It

the "shott" of El Fejej.

resembled the
it

when dead

calm, and seemed as though

ftir

had

flowed thence to lose itself

horizon.

away

in the

western

North of the "shott" the mountains tower up

in successive tiers, the foremost, of
a,

deep

l)lue tint,

contrasting sharply with the white

" shott."

flat

surface of the

Beyond

are

paler

l)lue

peaks,

and

beyond

FROM GABES TO EL HAM MA

them
aoain
the
vao;ue
outlines

123

of

far

distant

mountains.
Shott Fejej
is

the

most easterly of the

" shotts "

that extend in a lono- line from the Sahara south of

Biskra to the Mediterranean, thus covering a track

of between two and three hundred miles.
It is

only separated from the Mediterranean by

Le

Scuil

de Gabes, a small strip of land about

eleven miles wide.

A
cla}^

" shott "

is

low-lying land of which the

;

soil

is
is

saturated with salt

this in the rainy season

rivers,

Hooded by the overflow of the

evaporation.

and

dries

by

Seen from a distance, a shott has the

it

appearance of a lake, but on approaching

disappointed to find that this glittering
is

one

is

flat

surface

only a crust of saltpetre.

Not only
this

is

travelling extremely dangerous on

is

sodden oround, but the shott

in

stiflino'

hot in

summer, and

winter bitterly cold.

told

Drummond Hay

me

that at the beginning of

the year, he, with only one servant and a guide, had

ridden over Shott Jerid on his

Tozer.

way from

Kebelli to

Though warmly
The way

clad, he

was nearly frozen,

and

his lingers could scarcely grasp the reins ii-oni

the cold.

lay along a narrow path,

;

and

on either side was bog

death.
It
is

a single false step

means

asserted that

it

is

only in the centre of

124

CAVE DWELLERS
always water
;

Sliott el Jerid that there is

is

but this
a crust

not apparent, as
salt,

it

is

entirely covered

by

of

on which footsteps resound as they do when

passing over a vault.

the

The water naturally

flows to
it

lowest
the
;

level

l)ut

when
various

the

wind blows,

sweeps
salt

water
this

in

directions

over the

crust
is

breaks under the weight, and the

level

thus altered.

At times

there

may

be as

much water
girths.

in the shott as

would reach

to a horse's

The

crust

is

also

occasionally forced

up from
forms

below by water and certain gases, and,

rising,

small conical mounds, giving the impression of an

impending volcanic eruption.

lie

These

little

mounds

like islands

on the sea

Imt, in consequence of
l)e

the reflection from the surface, appear to

of

hills

some height, and are

visible

for

many

miles

around.

One
Malah
"

of these, the

largest, is
It is

called " Jebel

el

(the salt mountain).

only some twenty

in

paces in diameter, and scarcely a yard

height

above the level of the shott, but looks from the

distance like a fair-sized
hill
hill.

In the centre of this

of salt was formerly an old well,

now

filled

up.

It contained

water of the same

cjuality as that still

found

in several other wells in the shott,

which

is

not more brackish than that found in the oases of

the vicinity and considered drinkable.

FROM GABES TO EL HAMMA

The caravan roads
from
vers^e

125

traverse

tlie

sliotts.

leading

to ver^e anion o-st the oases.

Some

of
l)e

these roads are very unsafe.

The

traveller has to

most careful to avoid being bogged, or plunged

suddenly into a hole
;

as told of a

whole Egyptian
its

army, which, according to tradition, found here

grave.

Step

l)y

step

must the

traveller

work
;

his

way
a

forward, perhaps through clouds of dust

whilst

mirage

may

rise

to

tempt

and

deceive

him.

Should his guide make the

least

mistake, or the
all
is

camel or horse he rides step aside,

over.

According to custom, usage, and agreement betwixt

the
tribes,

the

roads

over the

shotts
felled

are

supposed to be defined by stones, or

trunks,

palm

placed
;

at

distances

of

about

hundred

yards apart

luit

in places these,
;

which are called

" Gmair," are missing

in others they are replaced

by camel bones.

The Arabs
befallen

relate friohtful misfortunes that

tracks.

have

on these

Whole caravans have been

this treacherits

known

to

have been swallowed up by

ous earth crust, which at once closes over

prey.

The land amidst the

shotts

is

2^ar excellence the

home

of the date-palm.

In the oases of Tozer and

quality of dates known.
is

Nafta are found the

l)est

This clear transparent fruit

dredweight.

sold at

the hun-

In El Ilamma, on the other hand, the

Ijest (juality,

dates are not of the

the oasis being too

126

CAVE DWELLERS
sea,

near the

and the

air,

therefore, too

damp.

This

expLains what one hears of the dates of Gabes being

sokl at only twelve shillings the hundredweight, or

one tenth of the price of those from Nafta.

Many

authors and explorers, both ancient and

in

modern, have imagined that

the l)asin

of the

shotts they had discovered the Triton sea of Herodotus, believino; the river bed of

Wad

Malah

to be

the lower course of the Triton river, which connected

that mysterious lagoon witli the sea.

Though

this hypothesis has never

staff,

been proved,
conceived in

Raudaire, captain of the general

1878 the bold project of reconstructing the old

Triton sea, by leading water into the immense basin
of the shotts.

He

thought

it

would be only neces-

sary to dig through the eleven miles of the wide

chalky tract near Gabes to form a large inland

sea.
]e

From
gained.

this

scheme

great

advantages were
frontier

to

The southern French by

a

would be
re
-

protected

natural

1)arrier.

The

created

Triton sea would

soon be traversed

l)y

shipping,

thereby leading to mercantile relations being established with regions

and people hitherto unknown.

mioht
result in the climate
!

And what

a chano;e

The moisture would

create fruitful stretches of land,

flock in

where colonists would

Alas
!

numbers.

the project, vigorously supported at the

outset by the Government, proved untenable after


FROM GABES TO EL HAMMA
further
investigation
in 127

1876.

Raudaire's

survey

had

not
lie

been

accurate.

The western shott did

sea-level,
"

indeed

twenty metres below the

"

but

the imincDse shotts of " Jerid

and " Fejej

it

proved,
so that

on the other hand, to be as much above

the canal would have had to be prolonged nearly

one hundred and

first

fifty miles,

and even then only the

named

of these shotts would be submersed.

This unfortunate revelation did not dishearten

either Raudaire or his celebrated supporter, Lesseps
;

and, until the death of the former, in 1885, he

Raudaire

defended
still

his project

with an energy and

determination worthy of a better cause, and in spite

of the State having wisely

withdrawn

its

support.

Lesseps

visited the

ground on several occasions,

at the cost of a

and positively asserted that

and
fifty millions of francs

hundred

the scheme was feasible.

From
minds

past events

it

is

sad to note that great

like Lesseps's often

have recourse to dubious

expedients when they desire to lancer une affaire.

All

other

learned

authorities

geologists
before,

and

scientific

men, such as Parnel, Letourneux, Doumetothers-

Adamson, and

had,

long

sharply

criticised Raudaire's fimtastic project,

and declared

that the sea had never in ancient times occupied

the

flats

now

filled

by the

shotts.

Indeed, Cosson
inland

further maintained that had this proposed

sea been successfully

dammed,

it

would soon have

128

CAVE DWELLERS
fill

been imperatively necessary to

it

up

again, so

much opposed would

interest.

it

have been to the general

All were, moreover, agreed that

improl)a])le that the climate

it

was highly

would be influenced to
that,

any extraordinary degree

by admitting the

water, millions of date-palms would be destroyed,

and most of the springs which now

oases of the Jerid

fertilise

the

would be tainted and spoiled by

;

the salt water, thus causing the ruin of the country

finally,

the project would cost a thousand (in place

fifty) millions of francs.

of a

hundred and

Lesseps's repeated assurances of the accuracy of

his researches

were received very coldly, though this

affair.

was before the occurrence of the Panama

Now
ing

the (juestion
of

is

closed,

and one hears nothin

more

the

company formed
j^^^'^^''^

1882
cle

by

the great Frenchman,

interieure.

^ct

creation

la

mer

The

old

man's prestige had been on

already.
his

the

wane

for

some years

Yet the day

will
will

come when the memory of

important works

obliterate the recollection of the errors of the even-

ing of his
title

life,

and history
his

will again grant

him the

which

is

due

that

of " the great French-

man."

CHAPTER

VIII

The Oasis of El IIamma

On

the

southernmost border of this oasis

lies

viUaoe built of sunburnt stones, and of which the

narrow lanes were almost deserted when we passed

through
it.

The Khalifa
south,

lived on the outskirts towards the

and when we arrived he was squatting on a

stone bench that ran the whole length of the outer

wall of his house.

The shade was

delicious l)eneatli

the eaves of the broad roof supported by two rows

of felled palm-tree stems.
I

cannot help thinking

pillars

that

these

were

the

origin of the

of

the

ancients,
for the

and suggested to the Egyptians the design

columns of their temples, and, through them,

those of the Greeks and

ficent

Romans

in

their

magni-

temple

halls.

Around the Khalifa were

lying, groups of loud-voiced

sitting,
all

standing, or
talking.

men,

He

was holding a court of

justice,

which was attended

with the wrangling, jostling and thrusting, usual on

such occasions.

Crouched in front of him was a man, near

9

whom

I30

CAVE DWELLERS
woman and
child,

were a

and around tliem

w^as

gathered an interested, excited crowd.

The woman, with outstretched hands, addressed

the
Khalifa,

speaking

in

subdued
peculiar
to

voice

and

with

the

striking

gestures

Orientals.

She was immediately interrupted by the man, who

shouted and gesticulated.

Other men joined

fists

in.

saw arms and clenched

in

constant motion,
rising

and was deafened by the noise

side.

from every

The Khalifa, a man

of about fifty, sat, mild

and

amiable, gazing at the crowd with his deep black

eyes.

His

fine figure

was

slight

and noble, and

his

features refined, with a slightly hooked nose

full l)eard,

and a

tlirough which his fingers were occasion-

ally passed.

Now

and then a hidden

fire

flashed

from his expressive eyes as he made a remark.

Then the shouts

of the crowd would moderate, 1)ut

only for a moment, and again the storm broke loose.

At

last it really

grew too

l)ad,

and what

had

expected for some time came to pass

Khalifii's

one

of the
stick.

men punished
a
little,

the

crowd with a
remained

Some
seated,

retreated

others

calmly

and the inquisition recommenced,

until again

the demonstrations became too violent.

Our

arrival interrupted this scene for a time.

was kindly received and shown to a dwelling on the

first floor

of a side wino-.

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA

When my
invitation
I

131

baggage had

])eeii

l)rought in, at his

seated myself beside the Khalifa on his

carpeted l)ench, where

we partook we

of the "

welcome

"

of coftee in tiny cups, whilst

discussed
it.

my

jour-

ney and

my

motives in undertaking

The man, woman, and

all

child remained

unmoved
She was

the time, and stared at us from the same spot

where, prol)alily, they had been for hours.

old, ugly,

and wrinkled, and gazed vacantly before

child,

her.

The

a pretty ten-year-old boy, looked

inquisitively at

me
his

with his fine

])lack eyes, whilst

the

man drew

hood over

his

head and hid his

appeared to be

hands under

his ])urnous, so that he

a mere white bundle.

Thus they

sat,

resigned to their fate, the

quiet.

men

around keeping moderately

If

one or another

became noisy, he was silenced by one of the Khalifa's

attendants.
I

begged the Khalifa to continue

his judicial
so,

proceedings, and, after some hesitation, he did

leaving
little

me

seated on his carpet, and going aside a

pillars.

took his place beneath one of the

flies

Whilst the

swarmed

in

myriads about me,

buzzed in

and the
I

liulibub of men's voices

my

ears,

leant asfainst the wall and o-azed liefore me.

From

the subdued liuht l)eneath the shade of the eaves

my

eyes scanned the sunlit plain which extended to

the mountains.

To the

right the

palm tops on the

132

CAVE DWELLERS

southern edge of the great groves of the oasis quivered

in the glittering light.

Below them

perceived the

brown tops of

tents.

Before me, close to a stone

dyke which crossed the foreground, the plain was

covered with
loiio;

low mounds.

On

each of these

stood, facing the east, a small liat stone, or a little

dazzling white cupola.

g;estive of a

This

is

the cemetery, sug-

stone-strewn strand.
the

Among

graves sat in clusters some white

I

peaked bundles.

imagined them to be people

performing their devotions, but soon they moved,

and
air

caught sight of an implement shining in the

above the white points, and was told they were

dio-g-ino;

men

a a;rave.

Only

a few hours earlier, in the tents lielow the

still

palms, a man,

in the

prime of

life,

died of the
to

insidious fever of these regions,

and was shortly

be buried.

When
hushed,
I

the brawling of the crowd around

me was

heard a w^ailing sound as of hounds bay-

ins in the distance.

the women.

No

doubt the lamentations of

The grave was soon ready, and some of the

white
fiirures

strolled

off

to

the

villag-e,

the

rest

returning to the camp.

For about half an hour

sat gasping with the

flies

heat and endeavouring to keep off the

palm-leaf fan.

with a

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA

The man,
Kluilifti,

133

woniciii, uiid cLild

I

were

still

before

tlie

but

lijirdly

noticed any longer the loud

tones of the bystanders.

Not that they had ceased

wrangling, but that

to the sound.

my ears had grown accustomed Now and ai;ain one of the sons came
I

and conversed with me, but

peace.

begged to be

left in

At

last

came the

funeral.

Four men bore on was thrown a

their shoulders a

bier,

over which

burnous.

The

liearers

hurried along, followed by

some

fifty

them

as

men clad in white burnouses, and behind many women in dark dresses. From these

arose sobbing cries in measured time.

The
crowd
funeral,

noise near

me

subsided a
to

little

some of the
to join

wandered down

the

plain

the

and gradually dispersed altogether.

of the

The wailing
ears,

women came

distinctly to
I

my

and

in the centre of their

group

saw a pair

of white

arms stretched to heaven.

the lamentations were
stilled,

Now
like

and a death;

silence reigned

during the midday hour

only

the buzzino- of the

fiies

was

to be heard.
I

Taken aback by the sudden hush,

looked about
child

me

there

still

sat

the

man,

woman, and

gazing over the plain.

The

bier
it

was now deposited on the ground.

Around

crouched the glaring white figures, their

hoods drawn forward and their hands covering their

134

CAVE DWELLERS
while the prayer for the dead was recited.
grief-stricken.
call

faces,

The men appeared

Who
or

could

tell

when Allah might

what
it

away another,

knew but

might be
!

his

own

turn to be

summoned
in

next morning
the
oasis.

For the fever raged distressingly

So sounds of lamentation rose from the

dark group which showed so sadly and so strikingly

against the pale golden-brown of the plain and beside

the gleaming white crowd of men.

"

He was

so good, so proud, so strong, but yesterday.

is

Now
Now

he

dead,

liis

wife

is all

alone,

Oh Oh

woe, oh woe, oh woe.

she grieves,

Ms

children and his friends weep.

etc.

woe, oh woe,"

While

this wail rose

from the sombre crowd,

saw white arms flung repeatedly heavenward.

The
sounded

plaintive song increased in strength,

like a fearful howl,

till

it

and

saw the women

This

tearino; their hair

and
time.

scratchinsx their faces.

lasted

some

little

Meanwhile the body was

the

laid

in

the ground

men

sitting

around

in

silence

and weeping,
louder

whereas the wail of the

women resounded
men
;

and yet louder.

When

the prayers were ended, the

rose

and

returned home, each going to his work

only a few

remaining to

fill

up the grave.

little

later the

women

alone were

left,

but

they had parted into two groups.

In the one they

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA

stood erect, and from these came wailings
;

135

in the

other group the figures S(|uatted

on the ground,

resting while their companions mourned.

The Khalifa returned, and aoain the

noisy

oriainal

mob gathered around him. The women out there had meanwhile exchanged
last, after

places several times to take their turn of wailing.

At

a lapse of half an hour, they started

homewards, going to the encampment where the

dead man's tent was then
beino; struck.

Like a rag

it

lay on the earth, in token of the

up,

home being broken

great grief had

and not

till

later,
it

when

the

first

subsided, would

be raised auain.

During
for

this interval a
I

meal had been prepared

me, so

retired to

my

room where

it

was de-

lightfully cooL

Up
ing
it,

a steep external stair I

climbed from the

yard to a room, and through that to another adjointhis last being very spacious.

The roof was

built of

palm beams,

laid

one against the other,

and supported

in the centre

by a

pillar.

The walls
rusli

were whitewashed and lined below with

ting,

mat-

and the whole

floor

was covered with beautiful

value.

thick, soft carpets of great

In one corner
;

were cushions and pillows

for a

couch

in another

our saddles, bags, and rugs were neatly arranged.

little

window with an

artistic iron grating

;

overlooked

the roof of the pillared verandah

this

window was

136

CAVE DWELLERS
with a sliutter
wliicli

fitted

could be closed at will

to keep out the light and the Hies.

One
whilst
I

of the
ate.

Khalifa's

sons

kept

me company
had
next

After

Hamed and
had
the door
in

the

other

attendants
in the

consumed the remainder of the meal

room,
I

and

the

shutter

closed,

and

lay

down
It

the

half darkness

for a

midon

day nap.

was almost impossible

to

slee|3

account of the noise in

I

the verandah, but at last

dozed

off.

Hamed woke me
was a weddinosee

presently to

tell

me
I

that there

in the oasis,

and that
I

if

wished to

the bride brouoht

home
some

must

hasten.

So

started, together w^ith

of the sons

and dependI

ants of the house.

As we passed the cemetery

ai>ain o;athered there,
I

saw that the women had

and
into

could hear their lamentations, so

hunied on

the street, trying to shake off the mournful impression, before joining in rejoicings.

On

the

way

met an Arab

wdio,

with a good
It

French accent,

said,

"Bon

jour, Monsieur."

was

one of the Khalifa's retainers, who now owned a

little

palm grove and home

in the oasis, l)ut

in

who,

some years ago, had served

leurs,
I

the Algerian tirail-

and therefore spoke good French.

was delighted with
I

this

new

acquaintance, as

through him

should be better able to

make myself

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA

understood than
tlirougli

137

my good Hamed,
me

so

asked

him

to

aceompaiiy me.
the

On

way he
hxter,

told

that he had served in

Mexico and,

in the

war with Germany.

He

had been wounded on three occasions, and showed

me

his

scars

with

pride.

The

hist

time he was

wounded was
many, and

in the battle of Gravelotte.

little

He was
in Ger-

afterwards kept a prisoner in a

since

town

had completed

his long

term of

service in Algjiers.

From
of a

the street w^e espied a

tree

man on
;

the

toj)

palm

behind a high
I

w^all

he was busy

gathering the date crop.

lingered to watch him,

and wdien he discovered

amicably,

my

presence

he smiled
attendants

and

said

something to

my
to

about wishino; to
really

offer

me some
dates,

of the fruit.

He
a

did climb down, and

came

me
I

wdtli

bunch of remarkably good

which

accepted

and sent

to

my

quarters.

When we had
palm grove.
ing in
dren,
;

passed the village

we entered
and

the

From every

side people w^ere streamgirls,

men, veiled women, young

chil-

all

to see the bride taken to the ]ridegroom's

dwelling.

The whole scene

closely resembled

what

wit-

nessed a couple of days later, under l)etter circumstances, in Hadeij.

I

will

therefore restrict myself

in a closely

to mentioning that w^e

saw her arrive

138

CAVE DWELLERS
litter,

shut

borne on

a,

camel, accompanied by some

female

relatives

and a man who led the camel.

procession, which halted

Negro musicians headed the

in

an open space.

Then

began a " fantasia

"

of

horsemen,

who

galloped past us firing their muskets.

richly dressed,

They were
were decked

and the
silken

horses' quarters

with

brilliant

coverings.

But there were

"

not

many

riders,
I

neither did
told,

the " fantasia

last

long.

This,
in

was

was because there was

mourning
deaths.

the oasis

on account of the many

After the "fantasia" the bride was conducted

into

the

town,

through

narrow lanes where the

palanquin scraped between the walls of the houses,

and down into a yard.

to kneel,

Here the camel was made

still

and the

girl,

closely veiled,

was led

into the dwelling

of the

man, who perhaps saw

time
in his
life.

her that evenino; for the

first

Passing by the entrance of a small mosque

peeped

in.

It

was

cool

and shady

in

the

little

room, the roof of which was supported on pillared

arches.

On

the

floor

were rush mats, and in a

corner were raised a few steps, whence the "

Imam "
made
with

speaks to the
of

f^iithful.

This stair was simply

unpainted
is

wood, not

even

ornamented

carving, as

generally the case.

evening'

Towards

we

visited

another villaoe

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA

rather more to
}alu].s,

139

tlic

nortli.

It

was surrounded by
minaret attached

amidst which stood a

little

to a

mosque

close to the market-place.

this

Between
there
is

and the

villaoe first

mentioned

an open piece of land, formerly occupied

by

a town, l)ut

now

only encumbered with build-

ing materials.

In the vicinity, near some hot springs, are also

the ruins of an old Turkish
fort,

now
its

so insecure

that no one ventures to live beneath

walls.
It
is

cruml)ling
a
its

said

that the

inhabitants had, as
all

matter of course, plundered the building of

timljers

and woodwork, and that consequently the

Kusting amongst the

walls hardly held together.

fallen

masonry lay a couple of cannon of anteconstruction.

diluvian
built
is

The
springs,

fort

was

evidently

to

protect

the

the water of which

Ijeing

warm, the

highest

temperature
natives

about

113

Fahrenheit.

The

fetch

the

warm

water in pitchers from the basin of the springs,

and

set

it

to cool for drinking purposes.

F'rom the days

of the

Romans

these

springs

have been known and esteemed as having great

healing
to

powers,

and as such have been resorted

from most ancient times.

When we
village,

arrived in the neighljourhood of the

we were

greeted

by the same

cries

of

lamentation that we had heard the previous day

I40

CAVE DWELLERS
the

ill

cemetery, and were told

that the

women
four
It

were mourning

over a bride,

married

only
fever.

weeks ago, who had just died of the

seemed

as

thouijh

sorrow had

overwhelmed the

oasis, for wails

rose on every side amidst the

palm

groves.
It

was evening, and nearly dark,

as

we

strolled

back to the Khalifa's abode, where we found the

meal ready.
find

When
I

I
I

began to eat

could

not

my

knife,

which

remembered having used

;

at breakfast.

searched everywhere, but in vain

the
saddle-bao;s,

Hamed examined
in his

and then

dis-

covered that some pomegranates he

had gathered

garden and given to

these,

me

were missing, and

of
cigarettes

besides

from
gone.

parcel

two

packets were
at work.

Thieves had evidently been

We

held a consultation as to what was to be

I

done, and

decided to mention the theft to Ali,

one of the sons.

avoid
misflit
tellino-

At

the same time

of
it,

I I

wished to
thouo-ht
o;uest
it

the

Khalifii

as

distress
ro])be(l.
sii])ject

him
But
;

to
I

learn

that

his

had

been

could not be entirely silent

Aral)S a

on

tlie

amongst the
if

man must
he went

uphold his rights

he wishes to be respected.

As soon

as

Ali

heard

of

tlie

theft,

straight to the guard at the gale,

and asked him

who had been up

to the guest-room.

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA

One
person,
it

141

appeared, had carried a buncli of

request.

dates there at

my

This had l)cen one of

the Khalifa's
it

own men,

so the guard

had not thought

necessary to prevent his going up.

AH

had, however, caught this same fellow some

time ago stealing gunpowder, so he readily suspected

him and hurried

near at hand.

off to

the man's dwellino, which was

to confess

Here he advised him

and

at once restore the stolen property,

and thus escape

punishment.
This the fellow would not do, so Ali, assisted
others, searched the house, finding the knife
Ijy

and

packet of cigarettes.

In

the few hours that had

elapsed since his theft, the ruffian had treated himself to

five-and-twenty first-rate cigarettes and the

pomegranates.
into
prison,

The

culprit

was very soon thrown

I

and there he remained when on the following day.

left

El

Hamma

Whether

or not

he was set free after

my

departure, and whether

I

the Khalifa ever learnt the story of the theft,

am
I

io'norant.

It

was

late in the evening,

near ten o'clock, and

noticed that
that I
healino;

was about

to retire to rest,
slight
cold.

when AH

had caught a

He

insisted

should at once waters

of the

2^0

down

to the wonderful

warm
I

spring,

declaring

that

in

quarter of an hour
It

should be perfectly well.

I,

was pitch dark wdien Hamed, AH, and

carry-

142

CAVE DWELLERS
lanterns,
strolled

iiig:

throuo-h

the

villao-e

to

the

spring near the ruined old " Borj."

We

descended

a stone stair which ended in a dark, paved lower

room, from the opening into which steam issued

into the cold outer
I
air.

By

the light of the lantern

saw that the water rose within the room, through

it

which

flowed,

and was discharged through a small

opening into a basin outside.

In the centre of the room stood a clumsy pillar

supporting the roof, and surrounding the fountains

were tanks built of stone.

the black figure of a negro.

Within one of these lay

We

requested him to
it

move.

This he was quite willing to do, but

;

took

him a long time

and we had to

assist

him,

for

he

could scarcely walk, his legs being

crippled with
to

rheumatism.

When we
run
out
for

had taken him up

steps,

chamber near the stone

the

and

after

letting

water

little

while,

we

un-

dressed.

The room was

a

full

of choking hot steam, as in

;

Roman
I

or
sfot

Moorish bath

began to perspire
Countins; one, two,

before I
three,
felt

into the water.

in.

scrambled

Over

my

whole body
I

an icy sensation, just as though

water,

had plunged

into cold

but immediately after followed a

feeling as of being scalded,

and

sprang back on

to the stone verge.

Twice

repeated
tlie

my endeavours

to bear the l)urning heat of

water, but each time

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA

had
to

143

jump out quickly

coukl

so I

remained seated on

the stones, throwing the water over

my
me

body, and

even that
I

hardly bear.

The whole time

were being

felt

as

though everything inside

1

l:)oiled,

and

perspired frightfully.
it

With Hamed
by

was the same, but he

w^as able

to remain lonirer in the water.

But

Ali astonished
in

us

quietly

enjoying

himself
of

sitting

the
least

water,

the

temperature

which

was

at

113 Fahrenheit.

After half an hour of this w^e dressed hastily,

and went to the upper room that was thick with

rising steam, but not nearly so one.

hot as the lower

Here, on the stone flooring,

in

we

sat

closely

wrapped

our burnouses, the hoods well drawn

l)y perspiration.

over our faces, to refresh ourselves

Twice when

drew

my

hood

aside, a
face.

clammy,

cold,

raw

air

seemed

to strike

my

The lantern had

and by
its
I

been placed on the stone

before I hurriedly covered
siolit

floor,

light,

my

face again,

caught

of four other fio;ures lyino; huddled in their

white burnouses.

Thus we

sat

for

another
to

half-hour
negro.

chattinsf

amongst ourselves, and

three

the

The other The negro

men appeared

to

be

sleeping.

told us that on a little donkey, his sole possession,

he had ridden a great distance from l)eyond the

island

of

Jerba,

to

be

cured

by

this

far-famed

144

CAVE DWELLERS

spring.

When

he

arrived
all,

about a fortnight ago

l)ut

he could not stand at

assisted him,

Allah had already-

and now he was so much better that

little.

he could hobble about a

Every day was

wholly spent by him in the bath, or in this upper

room.

His food was dates and bread oiven him

folk,

by

charitable

as

he,

poor fellow,

possessed

nothing.
I

gave him a couple of

francs,

with the wish

that Allah would continue to help

him

so that he

might entirely recover.

side he sought

Throw^ing himself on his

it,

my

hand, and, not finding

kissed

my

burnous, murmuring his thanks

and praying
journey
;

that Allah would protect

as long as I
his

me on my

and,

was within hearing, continued

to repeat

good washes.

We
home
cold.

stepped
at

out into the dark, and returned

a

nearly

run,

so

as

to

avoid

catching
the

Through the lanes we

sped

rapidly,

light after

dancing in Hamed's hand, and beside and

us

the

deep black shadows of our ghostly

figures leapt along the walls, startling a little

boy
of

who

met

us,

and who

darted

like

fiasli

lightning into a narrow side alley.

When
on

reached

my room
I felt

and stretched myself

my

couch, I was conscious of an indescribable

quite refreshed, and

feeling of well-being.
all

symptoms

of indisposition had completely passed

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA

away
the
;

145

so I

fell

asleep,

having had ample proof of

of

healing

properties

the

holy

underground

spring.

My

friend, the old soldier,

in

had said during the

day that

the neighbouring mountain wild boar

were always to be found in numbers, and that at

the

moment they were

also lying

near the river

close to the

of El Ilamma, about a mile

shott, for
it

away and

had been a very dry season, and the

to

boar had

moved

the oasis in search of water,

and taken shelter

I

in the thickets

and brushwood.

had therefore agreed with the Khalifa's sons

that the next morning at sunrise

we would

ride

out and try for a shot at the boar, which at that

hour came down to drink at the water pools.

I

w^as pleased at the prospect of this hunt,

and

intended to try on the occasion an old Hint lock

given

me by

one of the Khalifa's sons.

it

Early next morning, before

was

liglit,

woke me, saying,

to

" There will not be

Hamed many men

hunt with you to-day.

All the people have to

go to the distant plains, some have ah-eady started,

and others are preparing

night
rain
I

to

depart
to

for

in

the
that

an

express

courier

arrived

report

had

fallen in the west."

at once
I

told

Hamed
all

to say to

the Khalifa
as
I

that

gave

up

intention

of

hunting,

would not hinder

10

his

men from

going to their work.

146

CAVE DWELLERS
I

said

this

knowing that
fallen,

it

was a year and a

day since rain had

and that the prospects

;

of the barley crop began to look serious

is

for

it

only when the

;

soil

is

wet that the corn

will

sprout
people

and Allah having had compassion on the and sent

rain,

the

men
first

should

start

at

once to plough the bare earth and sow the grain.

The

rule

is

that

the

arrivals

at

their
for,

destination have the choice

of the best land,

although each tribe possesses large tracts of the

plains which, to

according to ancient custom, belong

them,

the

ground

is

common

property,

and

the first-comer can take what he will and as

as he can manao;e to cultivate.

much
Over

There was joy that morning

in the oasis.

two thousand men and women departed

in

hastily
to

small

caravans

some

going

far

away

the

country south of the western

nearer lying
plains.

sliott,

others to the

Only those who

possessed

neither camels nor horses

remained, with the old

children.

men and some women and

Whilst dressing
I

heard the Arabs quarrelling

as

below

my
the

window, just
as,

they had

done

the

previous day, and

since

probably, they do every day

held
his

Khalifa

first

court

of justice

in this place.

From
steps
T

the

doorway
the

at
fresli

the

top

of

the
air

stone
in
full

inhaled

morning

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA

draughts.

147

Across the yard, where the horses were

fodder,
I

eating
roofs

their

looked

over the

flat

grey
the

to

the

pahn

groves.
risiiio-,

From some

of

dwellino's

smoke was

and the murmur of

manv

voices reached me.

just risen,

The sun had

mountain

and shone on the distant

through the yard and
There,

tops, as T passed

the long dark gateway into the verandah.

on

his stone bench,

was seated the Khalifa, calm,

mild,

and amiable.
pillars

My
the

eyes

wandered amongst
sur-

the

rows of

and over the mob that

courtyard
;

rounded

him

in

quarrelling,

gesticulating,
his
his

noisy
his

crowd.

He
saluted

rose and,

laying

hand on
head.
I

breast,

me by

bending

did

the same, and then

we passed

on together through the square between his house

and the cemetery.

His sons, assisted by the farm

there directing the departure

men and women, were

of the last caravan.

From an open doorway

in the long

white wall
sacks,

came old women dragging heavy corn

and

men with wooden ploughs and rope harness. Other women brought w^ater in great bullock skins, and
all

was

bound

securely

on

grumbling

camels,
;

amidst

much

loud

shouting
wall

and talking

while,
other's

leanino; asfainst the

and holdinoj each

hands, stood a row of half-naked children.

The

Berber

women

are

of

fair

complexion.

148

CAVE DWELLERS

and wear the usual blue garb wrapped round the

body, and fastened
pins,

on the shoulders with

sides legs

silver

leaving

their

and throat

visible.

On
silver,

their bare
lead,

arms and
bone,

they wear rings of

nails

or

and their
of

are

stained

with

henna.
eyes,

Many

them have good

features

and black
graceful.

and their movements are pretty and

There are other women, however, as smartly

dressed, Imt

whose dark colouring, coarse

to
their

features,

and ugly
extraction.

mouths bear witness

In these there
I
is

foreign

negro blood.

Later
so

expressed

my

astonishment at finding
"

many

of the latter here.

They

are

more pro-

lific

than the other women," said Hamed, " there-

fore

many men
They
are

take

them

as

handmaidens

to

have the more children,

for children signify riches."

descendants of

slaves

brought by
Officially

caravan from the Sahara via Rhadams.

there are

now no more
who
are

slaves

but, in fact,

over

the whole of Southern Tunisia, one finds numbers

of negroes

more

or less closely

bound

to

the households of the great proprietors.

They

are

well treated, and therefore remain in their masters'

houses, even thouoh the French have declared that

slavery has ceased to exist.

The
same
black
as

costume worn
that
is

by

the

negresses

is

the

of

the

Berber women, but their

in

wool

plaited

thick

locks,

that

fixU

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA

149

over their foreheads, whereas the Berber women's

hair
is

either

liidden

l)y

a handkerchief or hangs

loose like the front hair of our

own women.
were
laden,

Gradually,

as

the

camels

they

formed into groups, and then began the exodns.

The men and most of the women were on

the

foot,

former

with

muskets on

their

shoulders

or

knotted sticks in their hands.

the

few riders led

way on

horseback.

Their path

wound

across the cemetery,

amongst

the graves, and out into the grey or ochre-yellow

plains,

where group after group disappeared.

Other caravans, small

the town or the
versins: the road
tion.

and

large,

came from
tra-

palm groves, some of them

and
travellina;

in

another direcfall

We

saw the crowd gradually

over
the
plain

into lines,

and,

winding

towards

various

points, vanish out of sight.

The Khalifa returned

to his seat in the shade,

flies

with the shouting mol) about him, whilst the

buzzed in the hot

air.

On

the

plain

the sand seemed to

burn

the

mountains quivered on the horizon, and the shott

lay like a heated furnace far

away
for

to the north.

With
the
oasis
:

my

guide
to

went

a stroll
quarter,

through

first

the Jewish

where

bought an
smiths,

article

of dress, and then to the gold-

who,

in

my

presence,

made

anklets,

ear-

ISO

CAVE DWELLERS
and bracelets of
silver.

rings,

Then we

visited

the Ijlacks,
utensils

who

fashion

large

and small cooking

aid

of clay

without

the

of

potter's

wheel.

Next, a Jewish shop, where we secretly

purchased a couple of hottles of palm wine.

visit

to

the

coftee-house

the

only

one
flies,

saw

followed, where,

amongst myriads of

we drank
in

scalding hot coflee.

On, again, to a

man
the

the
of

market
plaited

place,

who
leaves

made the
;

loveliest
to

fans

palm

and

lastly

1)asket-

maker's shop, and to a weaver in his room.

Everywhere we were followed by an

crowd,

inquisitive

who watched

the interesting bargains.

When we
ments
"

returned

we
"

found the lieutenant

and interpreter from the

in

Bureau de Renseigneridins;

Gabes had arrived,

hold a
court
of

with their

Spahis,

to

inquiry.

They had

taken up their quarters in the guest-room, where

they sat
join

awaiting

my

return,

and invited me to
"

them

at their meal.

This Bureau corresponds to the " Bureau Arabe

of Algeria
;

but whereas the latter has the right of

right.

judging the natives, the former has no such

They have but one means

of control, but through

this they, in point of fact, distribute justice

almost

e(jually well.

The
meal,

otticers,

at

the

conclusion

of the

midday
all

would have to hold a court during

the

THE OASIS OF EL HAMMA

rest

151

of the day, as they

followino-

were

ol)liged

to

return
cheerful
o'clock,

home the

morniiio;.

After

repast, I started

on horsel)ack at about two

intending to spend the night on

a
well.

the plain,

near

The

ivhalifji,

who

naturally

had

few

people at

home, excused himself from sending a

officers

guide with me, but the

declared that alone

we should be unable
on the following day.
the
Khalifa,

to

find

our

way

to Iladeij
this

They represented

to
I

saying he must find a guide, and

sul)ject,

heard a loud discussion on the

and caught
of

an expression
Khalifji,

in
I I

the

usually

mild

eyes

the

which

had never seen

learnt later that
finest

before.

In
in his
soldier,

Gabes

the Khaliftx had

youth been the

horseman, the boldest

but also the most notorious horse-stealer

imaginable.

With
away

his

weapons

in

his

hand he
tribes,

went

oft',

far

to strange

and unfriendly

to rob

and plunder.

In

fact, his

forays sometimes

extended as

far as the reoions

about Tunis.

That

these encounters did not alw^ays take place with-

out a fight,

may

be realised when one learns that

of having

the Khalifa boasts

shot under him.

had sixteen horses

The
after us

officers

having promised to send a guide

to

the well,

we

said adieu

and rode

off".

The mild

Khalifa's sly

glance rested on

me

as

shook him by the hand on taking leave.

CHAPTER IX
Over Aglat Merteba to the Matmata Mountains

Over

a slightly
side,

undulcitiiig

plain with mountains

on either

we rode

for

some distance

in

the

intense heat.

On
to

the

way we met
comrade,

a Spalii from

the Bureau at Gabes, followed by a boy.

Hamed
to

was pleased
talk
to him.

see
It

and

lingered

appeared that the Spahi should

at his post near Aglat Merteba,

by rights have been

where we were
to

stay the night, but our friend

the Khalifa of El

Hamma
at
last

had sent him no pro-

visions for three days,

and, driven by hunger, he

to desert his post to

had been compelled

seek food.
to

He was

then on his way to El

Hamma
though

meet

his officers,

who, he knew, were to be there.

the
cholera,

On

account

of

which,

then decreasing, had recently raged in the south,

especially in the oasis

near

the

sliott,

in

Nafta,

and

in

the

yet more

northerly

Grofsa,

cordon

of 8paliis

had been established to prevent combetween

not
only
the
itself,

munication

infected

and

the healthy regions of Tunisia

but also with

the

frontier of Tripoli.

Meanwhile cholera broke

out amongst the

Spahis,
1D2

who were then mostly

AGLAT MERTEBA TO M ATM ATA MOUNTAINS

recalled
;

153

but on

tlie

particularly

menacing roads
left,

to the oases on the coast,

some posts had been

especially near the wells, to prevent wayfarers from

the stricken districts from penetrating farther.

The
tain

plain extended on every side.

The mounthe
far

to

our

left

rose

higher,

that

to

right

retreated in a westerly direction.

to

But

away

the south

we could
by

perceive the blue outlines

of the

Matmata mountains.
picked
clean

We

passed a dead

camel,
Cjuickly

the

jackals,

and

paced
or

along the track, over

plain,

stony

ground,

on the dry golden-brown

where there was

no vegetation worthy the name.

It

was just sunset when we saw before

us,

in

a hollow

by

river

bed,

two small dark peaks.

These were empty tents belonging to the Khalifa,

and under which the Spahis and herdsmen

lately been

had

encamped.

Now
The

there

was not a living soul to

canvas
of

l)e

seen.

tattered

the

empty

tents

was

supported by weak poles and pegs.

tery,

Broken potwere
scattered

esparto

straw,

and

refuse

untidily about.
well
in

We

drew water out of the paved

the only

water-skin

we

had.

From

this

both ourselves and our horses drank,

for there

was

no water- trous^h, and we had brouQ-ht neither

1>ottles

nor pitchers, expecting to find the camp occupied.

small caravan of some half-score camels came

154

CAVE DWELLERS
The
drivers fetched a
little

by, travelliDg northwards.

water, whilst their beasts continued on their way.

We
off

secured

our horses to pegs, each

little

Ijy

the

foreleg,

and gave them a

it

alfa straw, as

there was no barley, and

guide,

would be

late

ere the

who was

to bring some, could arrive.

Then

we spread our rugs

tents,

in the

open

air

between the
meal
I

and prepared to

enjoy

our evening
it

of dried
lit

meat and bread.

After

was over

a cigarette,

and lay down, whilst Hamed slumrising,

bered.

The moon was

and

listened

to

the

horses

grazing and a cricket chirping.

Thus
tlie

a long time passed.

hollow,
otlierwise
It

Once

a bird

Hew over
stillness
I

no sound broke the

so

of
on,

the

night.

turned very cold,

the

put
as

besides
gift

my
in

burnous,

haik

brought

to

the bridegroom, and, wrapping myself up,

lay
at

down
the

one of the tents, which, though open

protected

side,
for,

me from

the rays

of the

moon,

in the south, sleeping in the

moonlight

causes illness
I

so say the

Arabs at
I

least.

had dozed an hour, when

neighing of our horses.
I

was roused by
out,
Init

the

looked

there was nothing to be seen.

Hamed

also rose,

but could not discover anything.

So we lay down

again, using our saddles as pillows, but soon heard

footsteps,

and a voice speaking.

all

It

was the guide,

a
little

who had trudged

the

way,

carrying


AGLAT MERTEBA TO MATMATA MOUNTAINS
barley
for

155

our horses.

When we
as
tried

had fed them

he had
sleep

we gave
dates

the

guide

some bread,

only
again.
le-

with

him,

and then

to

We

were disturljed once more by the Spain

turning fi-om El Hanima.

From him
officers,

learnt that
repri-

he had complained to the

who had
were

manded the Khalifa

Before
saddles,

the mild, amiable Khalifa.

Hamed and
along
in
in
I

daybreak
pacing

in

our
our

and

the
his

wake

of

guide,

who, closely wrapped

strides.

burnous, led

the

way with long

covered

At dawn we passed
pletely

mound

that was

comlater

with stones, and

knolls,

somewhat
like

we came upon other

and
" Those,"

shaped

tumuli,

also covered with stones.

said

Hamed,

" are

ruins

from

the

time of the Romans."

On
cattle.

the plains

we saw herdsmen driving

their

In one spot, lines in the form of a large

scjuare

had been scratched with a stick on

the

hard surface of the earth.

the
lect

These are drawn by

cattle,

herdsmen about their

wdien they color

them

for

the

night,

that jackals

other

wild

animals

may

not

venture to attack them

at least, this

was Ilamed's explanation.

As the

distance from the mountains to the soutli

and south-east decreased, we passed various tracks

leading to several dry torrent beds
;

these were the

156

CAVE DWELLERS
tlie

paths from Gabes to

mountains.

Far away to

the south appeared a faint blue line at the base of

UEAUINU.

which

knew were

the villages of Tujud, Zaraua,

and Tamezred.

At seven

o'clock

it

bec^an to

ei-ow

hot.

Our
and,

guide threw his burnous over his shoulder,

AGLAT MERTEBA TO MATMATA MOUNTAINS

placing
the
liis

157

statf at the

back of his neck, grasped

two ends with outstretched arms.

l)riskly

Thus he
stony

stepped

forward
tiat

over

the

uiieven

ground, or on the
riddled with holes

hard chiy surface, that was

jerboas.

by the

In the quivering sunshine

we saw herds

of sheep

and

jxoats o-razino; in

charge of a scuardian.
a

After again
courses

crossing

couple

of

chy water-

we reached once more the

and

vicinity of the

mountains.

Before us lay a valley, in the distance

olives,

were palms and

far aw^ay at the highest

part of the valley a single upright palm.

This the
;

guide indicated, saying

it

was our destination

as

Hadeij, the end of our journey, and where

we were
would

expected for the wedding

I

feast,

was not

far thence.

now

dismissed the guide,

who

said he

return in a direct line across country to El

Hamma.
us, as w^e

His white figure was soon

left far

behind

rode dow^n the valley with the mountains on either

side.

To our right
I

was told there was a

it,

little

cave

village.

did not distinguish

but we passed the

palm and

olive trees belonging to the inhabitants.

On the
At
valley,
last

slope of the hill farther on,

still

to our right,

lay the village of Judlig

that of many women.

The
uneven and furrowed, and

we came

to a torrent racinoc into a broad

and knew that we were nearing Hadeij.

w^is

bottom of the valley

scattered with palms with fan-shaped crowns.

CHAPTER X
Bridal Festivities in Hadeij

Down

the mountains and over the

hills

and valleys

flocked the people in numbers.

Amongst them were

making
their horses

a few riders carrying guns and

curvet along the

path,

marked by

a dust cloud.

Burnous-clad
parties,

men

straojo-led alono; in
first as

small or

laro;e

which showed at
side,

mere white patches

on the mountain
distinct

but grew larger and more

as

they drew near.

Women
donkeys

in

liright

clothing
their

and

mounted

on

came

from

villages,
;

accompanied
other
or

by

their
afoot,
;

husbands

and children
in

women were
blue
draperies

wrapped

red,

yellow,

the

midday

sun lighting up the trinkets on

ankles.

their

arms and

All these groups

made

for the cave in the valley

the

Khalifa's village.

couple of his

men came

riding to receive

me

they closed up the troop with

us swelled our
I

Hamed, and other guests overtaking

train, so that

almost unconsciously
little

found myself
;

at the

head of quite a

cavalcade

the horses

snorted as their hoofs beat the ground and raised

15S

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES
the

IN HADEIJ

159

whirling dust, and the clink of spurs and the

sound of voices reached

There was an
behind me,
as,

my

ear.

air of festivity

about the riders

fiutterino-

with the hoods of their

burnouses flung back, they hurried along to the

feast,

passing the parties on foot,

trotted

who drew
their

aside as
restive

the horsemen

merrily past,
as they

steeds curveting

and snorting

emerged from

the shade of the palms into the sunshine.

When

the dust-clouds had subsided,

trees,

we

halted
surI

under some olive

where the Khalifa sat

rounded by male friends and neighljours.

dismounted,
Fatusli,

Here
old
I

and

saluting

first

amiable
cordially,

Sid

who

received

me most

then

shook other outstretched hands and received their

welcome.

On
raised

the open square which

camel's-hair tents for
guests.

knew

so

w^ell,

were

the

reception of the

numerous

Outside these the horses and

mules were tethered.

No women were

visible

they

remained

in the caves,

but hundreds of

men moved

al)out, or sat in

groups with upraised guns, whilst a

swarm

of

romping boys clustered around them.

;

Guests were continually arriving

Khalifa's hand,

they kissed the

and greeted one another.

Many

of
to

these dark-eyed, fine-featured

men were known

the
is

me,

and

heard

incessantly

salutation

of

" Salam," to which

the reply

"

Salam alikum."

i6o

CAVE DWELLERS
secure and proud of

I felt

my

position as a friend of
that,

these mountaineers, and of

knowing

though the
I

only Christian here amongst the " faithful,"

safe,

was

thanks to the Khalifa's influence and protection.

in the ordinary

Most of the men were clothed

white burnous, or the brown toga-like haik, draped

about them in picturesque folds

cially the riders

but others, espe-

and those who intended performing

"

the " powder

play

on

foot,

had discarded these

garments and assumed silken costumes of golden,

green, or blue embroidered gala burnouses with wide
sleeves.

very few wore the ordinary burnous or

the haik over their silk attire.

My

good friend Belkassim was the only person

present, as far as I could see, in old, worn, or ragged

clothes; his upper

garment resembled a frock

coat.

But he had
guests,

to supervise the horses

I

and mules of the

and

saw him hard

at work, dragging

them

about, scoldina; and dealino- blows rio;ht and left in

his efforts to

make room

for the

numerous animals.

His duties were evidently those of a marshal, and

he did not spare the stick with which he made play
at times his

amongst the

idle lads

who were

heedless of

directions.

Though very busy, he found time

give to o

and a warm o greetino-. o The bridegroom, Mohammed, was not

a look

me

visil)le,

neither was he mentioned.

According to custom, he

kept himself concealed with his closest friends.

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES
Mansur was not
the hriile; so
at

IN HADEIJ
jroiie

i6i

home, havin'

to fetch

sons
I

Amor was the who Imde me welcome.

was shown to

only one of the KhaUfa's

my

quarters in the guest-cave,

in the cave passage, as

and our horses were stabled

on

my
;

tirst visit.

first-rate gala

dinner refreshed

me

the table being laden with dishes and l)owls of

-

well

cooked food, which

relished with the aood

appetite of a hungry man.

The Khalifa himself

came

to look after

an inquisitive

me during my meal, followed by mob who crouched round the cave,

silent while the

darkenino' the entrance.

The onlookers remained

lasted,
I

meal

and when

it

was over were hustled

out,

and

ordered Plamed to post himself at the door and

forbid ing;ress to each

and

all,

as I desired to

change

my

dress and attire myself in

suit.

my

festal

costume

by

white linen

When
the

this

was done,

Hamed

entered, leading
lad,

hand a sprightly eleven - year - old

who

addressed

me

in pure French,

and was introduced

by Hamed

as his little brother Ali,

who was
his

invited

to the festival,

and had arrived with

mother

and

sister

from Gabes, having ridden thence on a

donkey.
Ali attended a French school at Gabes, and, l)eing
a

bright intelligent lad, had

soon

learnt

to

talk

fluent French.
1

He

told

me

that the Khalifa had

i62

CAVE DWELLERS
lie

said

might come and ask

if I

would employ him

as interpreter.
I

was much pleased with

this acquisition,
l)efore

and

durin2' o the
arrival,

hour which remained

the

the bride's
of

and

consequent

commencement
little

festivities,

occupied myself, with

All's

help,

in

gathering information

on

the

subject

of

the

weddino- customs in the

Matmata mountains, which

understand what
I

enabled

me

to

more

fully

wit-

nessed later in the day, and thus add to the knowledge

I

had already acquired from both Mansur and

l^etter class of

Amor, and from several others of the

mountaineers.

And

here

will diverge a little to descril)e the

;

ceremonies that had preceded this last great function

and, in the meantime,

my

readers

may

picture to

themselves the crowd eagerly scanning the mountains

to

espy the expected

l)ring

little

caravan led
the bride
;

by
the

Mansur, who was to

home

guests steadily increasing in numl)ers, and the biide-

grooni in his hiding-place, listening to the sounds of

rejoicing,

and perhaps dreaming of

his bride-elect

whilst muskets were lieing loaded, locks examined, horses

saddled,

women
ready.

adorned,

and

the

bridal

cham])er

made

On
father,

his son

Mohammed's

behalf, the old Khalifa

discussed the necessary arrangements with the bride's

who

is

one of the tribe of Uled Sliman.

The

BRIDAL FESTI\'ITIES
miirriage
contract.
is

IN

HADKIJ
))y

i6 J

then coiifliided,
Before
the

l)ut

merely

a civil
left

bridegroom can he
1)e

in

peace with his second wife, there must

much

J'eu

de joie,
eaten,
bride's

many songs sung, (juantities of kus-kus and many preparations made in hoth the
and the bridef>room's homes.
where
festivities

In the latter
for

especially,

must be kept up

eight days,

men and women

as

vie with each other in

making ready
It

for great rejoicings.

was,
earlier,

my

readers
I7tli

may remember,
I

eight

days

on the

October, that

had witfirst

nessed the festival of the opening day.

At

the

women had been mainly

and barley
mills,

occupied in collecting wheat

to be

ground in their small stone handexpected

;

many

people l)eing
that

so there
l)ut

was

much work
festivity

had to be done,

joy and

would reign

in Iladeij, so the village

women

met
in

in the

evenings and tried to surpass each other

improvising songs.

Whilst the chorus and joyful " Yu, yu

in the still evenings, the
in

"

re-echoed
seen, sat

men,
the

as

we have

groups listening to

songs of the women,

the negro comic singers, and the noisy

clarionets.
flash

drums and

Now

and
and

again
report

there

would be the
report, all

of powder

following

tokens of universal rejoicing.

The two
third,

first fete
is

days are called " Faraja."

so

The

"El Henna,"

named

after the plant, the

i64

CAVE DWELLERS
stuiii

leaves of which
feet of the

red the nails on the hands and

women.

young bride must never be

without this beautifying preparation in her new

home, and every day she must adorn herself to

please

and attract her husljand.

the fourth day, " Nugera," the

On

women

again

assemble and work and sing, busying themselves with preparations for the
festival.

At
beoin.

last

on the

fifth

day, " Mahal," the rejoicings

arrive to devour
food,
in

The tril)esmen and women

enormous quantities of various kinds of

addition to their well-loved " kus-kus."
dance,
sing,

The negroes
as

and earn much money,

l)y

they are

never overlooked

either host or guests.

is,

The next morning, that

called " Follag," the
in

of the sixth day,

men

begin by again revelling

to be

"kus-kus" and meat dishes; they require

well fed

and strengthened,

for in the

evening after

sunset they must sally out to collect

wood

for fuel.

They return

in

the early morning, and then

will

the
their

women's turn comes, when they

last

make

and greatest

effort to

render the bridal banquet

to

worthy of the occasion, and

selves

do credit to them-

and to the
of

Khalifti.

Many oxen and some

for

score

sheep

are

slaughtered,

no

festive

occasion passes without every

is

man

gorging until he

almost unfit to move.

The seventh day,

" El Kesuar,"

is

appointed for

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ

the
presentation
to

165

the

Inutlc

of

lier

dresses

and

ornaments.

In this case this hononral)le commission

son.
his

was entrusted to Amor, the Khalifa's second

Soon after midday he swung liimsclf into

saddle and led the way, followed by some ten horse-

men and

number

of

men on

foot.

The

latter led

mules laden with the

l)ridal gifts.

On

the

way

the

riders galloped in wildest " fantasia," riding gallantly

as they proceeded towards the bride's

home on

the

other

side of the mountains,

whilst muskets were

rose

discharged, and the

smoke of the gunpowder

amongst the

hills.

The negro musicians, who accomtlieir

panied them, played on

flutes

and beat their

drums

to

warn the Uled Sliman of the apjjroach of

the people from Hadeij.

These are expected, and a

pared in the village
;

festal

welcome preduring

for there also,

many
tri])e

days, great preparations have been made, the

being proud that

little

Men a

should go to Hadeij as

bride to the Khalifa's son.

What

crowd there was the other evening,

when, after sunset, she stepped from the cave into

the open court, shy and timid, to allow herself to be

seen by the

men

of her homestead,

who had gathered

on the top of the bank, whence they could see down

into the deep courtyard to

where the light

flickered

from the candle she carried, and where her shadow

wavered on the perpendicular

walls.

For the

last

i66

CAVE DWELLERS
Ijeautifid
little

time they looked on her maiden form and

features,

and coukl not but acknowledoe that

a fitting bride for

Mena was

Mohammed,

son of the

Khalifa of Hadeij.

The previous day the

village

women

of the Uled

Sliman sang the live-long day

morning, noon, and

Ije

night their joyful songs arose from the caves.

There was no more work to

food

done.

Enou<>;h

was provided
strano-ers

for

their

own

tribesmen,

and

for the

who were

to

come and

fetch the

bride.

After

Amor and

his

men have done honour

to

the Uled Sliman by the "fantasia" on horseback,

they are led into a cave, the residence of the bride's

father.

Here they hand over the lovely

and stewed meats.

clothes,

and

are reo;aled with roast

Before leaving,

they pass into another room,

where the women have rano;ed themselves alone the

walls,

each seated on

her

own "senduk" who

(chest).

On

the head of every

woman

they place pieces of

will

money, intended
bride, for she

for the negress

adorn the

must have encouragement and be paid

in ringing coin to eml)ellish the bride, that she

may
to

prove attractive

in the eyes of her future

husband.
return

Not

until

after

sunset

does

Amor

Hadeij, where again the musket shots re-echo and

the negroes dance and play, richly rewarded by the

spectators.

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ

111

167

the
:

villao-e

of

Uled Sliinan there

is

also

feasting

the hist great festival before the

little girl
]:)id

leaves her

home

for ever, for

next day she must

farewell to all those wlio have been so good to her,

to

become the

Vv'ife

of a stranger, a

man

with

whom

she

may

be scarcely acquainted, except by name.

But she probably dreams of her coming prosperity,

and of him who
master.
will shortly be her

husband and
on the

Lucky

for her if she does not dwell

thought that perhaps in seven, eight, or even fewer,

years,

when she
Ijeast of

is

faded, old,

and ugly,

she
for

may

become a

burden, and

make way
she

another

and more youthful woman,

whom

may

gratefully

welcome

as a help in her work.

will

But we
such

not overshadow a hap[)y hour with

forebodings.

Sorrow

may come
day, called

early,

but,

possibly, never

At dawn
canopy),
all

of the

final

" Sjiffa

"

(a

were

eai'ly

afoot in Hadeij.

During the
night,

previous evening, and late into the

guests

kept arriving from distant regions, and more would

arrive that day.

People had l)eon invited from

the
of

all

the villages in

Matmata mountains
Uled Sliman, but
Sultan,

first

and
from
Beiii

foremost,
Ras-el
iVissa.

those

also

Ned,

Beni

Tujan,

Smerten,

Many hundreds would

women, and
cliildreii

assemble, and, with

of Hadeij, between

the men,

one and two thousand would be present.

i68

CAVE DWELLERS
all

In the Khalifa's house, in

the caves, and in

the tents, the guests were fed in the early morning,

Belkassim had his

hands

full,

taking

care

that

everyone had his appointed place.

The meal soon being

to

finished, the people flocked

watch Mansur

start

with

the

canopy

(Sjifi"a)

perched on the bridal camel.

He

rode a donkey,

and was accompanied

foot, the latter firing

l)y
oft'

both horsemen and

men

on

muskets and performing the

" fjintasia,"

most graceful and joyous

whilst

the

negroes played gaily on flutes and tambourines as

they disappeared amongst the mountain paths.

But we must glance

where Mansur
is

at the

home

of the bride,
later.

expected to arrive some hours

The

father of the bride had given a banquet to

the men,

women, and

children,

and even
joie.
l)ride

to

the

negroes, followed

by much feu de
the

Towards

midday, when

has

been
of

adorned, and only waits to be fetched, the

her
All
tril)C enter,
is

men

and each lays

negress

his

mite on her head.

dressed

for the

who

has

her

and

striven faithfully
tively impressive.

that

the result

may
is

be superla-

But hark
distance, the
oh,

The report of guns

heard in the
Haste,

men from

Hadeij are coming.

for the

Uled Sliman, to receive them,

powder

speaks, the clarionets shrill, and the tom-toms

incessantly.

boom

t^

.1

169

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ

The palanquin
is

171

decorated

and enveloped
it
is

in

many
bride,

coloured draperies.

Within

placed

the

completely
it,

veiled,

the hangings are

drawn
l)e

around

so that she can neither see nor

starts

seen,

and the joyous procession

Hadeij,

homewards towards

Mansur

leading.

The

bride's mother, sister,

and father follow

afoot, the negress

with them

all

walking immediately behind the palanquin.

it

Before

go the negro musicians playing.

message was brought

me

that the bridal pro-

cession w^as to be seen comino'

down

the mountain.

We

hastened out and joined the stream of people

hurrying to a great open space, where the " fantasia"

was to be
females,

held.

Thither
in

rushed also a Hock of

enveloped

yellow

and red draperies.

girls.

These were the young and half-grown

They

kept close together, and grouped themselves under

the shade of a palm tree.

The

old Khalifa sat on

his mule, a clubbed stick in his hand.

He, Belkas-

sim.

Amor, and some of the men, directed the crowxl

to stand in long rows on either side of the open s]^ace.

My

j)hice,

on a chair under a palm tree, was

Beside

pointed out to me.

and the Khalifa rode

me were Ali and Hamed up now and again and halted

;

near me, wdien w^e would smile at each other

while

he inquired whether
fortably seated,

was

satisfied,

if

was comat

and expressed

his

gratification

my

presence on this festal day.

172

CAVE DWELLERS
Behind me rose a rampart of earth, banked up

about the pahii trees

it

was tightly packed with

crowd the pahns

rows of

men

and

al)ove this white

air.

towered into the

Farther off the crowns of

other palms and olives were visible, scattered here

and there over the valley of which the horizon

is

bounded

Ijy

blue mountains.

Clinging to the tops

of the neighl)0uring

palm

trees 1

saw boys, who had

climbed there for a better view.

Behind the men stood groujjs of women

the

amongst

former were the negro musicians, and beside

these

were

men

in

silken

apparel

and

carrying

muskets, in readiness to perform the gun dance (or

powder-play).

Far to the

left,

on an open space between two

roads, were gathered a

in flowing

number

of horsemen, clothed
silver-inlaid

garments and with their

guns

held pointing upwards, prepared to spring forward

at a given

moment and
right, the

pass us at Hying speed.

in a gentle incline

To the

ground rose

to the caves in the bank.

It

was hot

at

the midday hour, and the sun

l)ut

burnt scorchingiy in the valley,

all

the attention of

was

strained

watching

for

the

long-expected

procession, so no one noticed the heat.

The

flutes,

clarionets,

and drums Ijegan

across

to play.

The boys started running

followed

the

open space,

and driven back by

Belkassim and his

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ

assistants,

173

and roundly abused even by the Khalifa

himself; for the space had to be kept clear for the

horses to gallop over.

Suddenly the sound

of gun-shots

"

was heard
rose

coming from the opposite groups.

The smoke
I

amongst the palm

))eautifully

leaves,

and then

saw men
full

dressed and wearing red (;aps and

white

trousers,

performing the gun

dance,

either

two or four

at a time.

Two men sprang

first

forward from the group.

his

The
his

rested

his

cheek on

gun,

aimed at
with

companion, and danced round in a

tripping steps,
still

circle

little

steadily sighting the other, who,

circle,

opposite to him, danced in the same

the butt

end of

his

gun held

in

a similar
side,

position.

Thus

they tripped from side to

keeping with their

Then, suddenly,

guns a steady aim at each

a report sounded from the

other.

two guns simultaneously.

to the staccato

The dancers then sprang round

nasal notes of the clarionets,
time.

and

now playing
his

in quicker in the

One

of the

men threw
it fell,

musket up

air to catch it

again as
in

the other wdiirled his

whizzing round
while,

his hand.

So they danced

for a

and then dropped into slower measure, aiming

first,

at each other as at

and ending by abruptly

vanishinoj amono;st the crowd to reload their o-uns,

whilst others
repeated.

danced forward

and the

firins

was

174

CAVE DWELLERS
Two and
two, aiming at each other, four
;

men

danced, in a circle

as they tripped

from one side to

the other, reports re-echoed and guns whirled in the

air.

The sun gleamed on

silver-inlaid

weapons, on

the dust, the dazzling white burnouses of the men,

on the women, the palms and the olive

the
music's

trees, whilst

monotonous nasal clamour resounded

hideously.

Then the

riders to the left stirred into activity.

Two men

started their horses at

at furious speed.

a gallop, forcing

them along

Like lightning they

each other
Their

approached, the

riders leaning towards

so that their heads pressed cheek to cheek.

caps seemed one red spot, their two faces were not
distino;uislialjle

the one from the other.

The

rider

on the

rio'ht

held his ""un in his rioht hand, the other

as they galloped tliey
in

in his left,

and

swung them

to

and

fro

and up and down

the

air.

When

they

were quite in front of

dancers, one of

us, just

outside the group of

them

fired
air,

his

gun

into the

ground

and the other into the

then they parted, gallop-

ing quickly back to join their ranks.

Other horsemen followed

In El
horses

in the

same

fashion.

Hamma

had noticed some

coverings
I

riders

whose
tlieir

had

silken

flowing

over

quarters, but here

saw none.

Some

thirty horsemen

came forward

in turn to

take part in the powder-play.

The dancing group


BRIDAL FESTIVITIES
did

IN

HADEIJ
passed
;

175

not cease firing

when

the riders

the

fintes
it

and ehxrionets wiklly intermingled their din

was deafening.

But the

I'iders'

prowess was a

heantiful sight.

Some
past;

of

them had no guns and

his

only galloped
saddle,

one carried, hanging hy

silver-mounted

splendid long

sword, re1

semblino- our

own

old Vikino- swords.

This

was to

see used later, during the bridal ceremony.

After some time passed in this way,

heard the

sound of other

fintes

and drums.

The dancers and

riders redoubled their exertions, for at last the bridal

procession was on the point of arriving.

Mansur on

his

mule came riding into the square,

" fantasia " riders.

and was nearly trampled on by the

After him follow^ed the camel with the canopy.

It

was led forward by men on

foot, others
it

supporting

the palanquin on either side as

swayed backwards

and forwards.
Behind the camel came some women, and the
procession

was closed

l)y a

mule laden with dresses

and

gifts.

Just as the camel w^as about to halt beneath the

shade of the palm trees in front of me, two horsemen

came tearing

up.

They

fired their

guns quite close

I

to the canopy.

Their horses reared, and

saw their

forelegs right

up

in the air as the

guns whirled over

the men's heads.

At

short

intervals other riders followed,

some

176

CAVE DWELLERS

singly, others in couples, or even three riding side

by

side.

In the last case, the two outside riders

leant towards the central figure.
fired off their

All

guns

close to the palan-

quin, where the bride sat ensconced.

'ij

She must have been unconscious of

'i'

all

save the fiendish noise

made

in

THE BUIDK ESCORTED OVER THE MOUNTAINS.

(From a
sketch hy

Knud Gamborg.)

her

honour,

and the unpleasant rocking motion

produced by a camel's action.

The horsemen returned

to their starting-point

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ

after

177

each

gallo[).

The red and gold canopied

pointed
top

l^ahuiquin

with

its

was now just

in

front of me.

The music continued, and the

hoofs,

chitter

of the

horses'
;

and of shots
spectators
in

fired

into the

ground

wdiilst

the

their

white
the

burnouses stood
beautiful sight.

ahnost motionless,

enjoying

The sun shone

over
rays,

brightly,

and many
to

drew

their

hoods
its

their

heads

protect

themselves from

and the horses were white

with foam from excitement and heat.

Behind a couple of the horsemen,

negro
up.
lad, bestriding a little jennet,

a stark-naked

came galloping

He waved
it

his

arms and gesticulated wildly with

Alas
!

a stick, using

as a gun.

the mule stopped

suddenly, sticking his forefeet into the ground.

The

negro

lad,

with an indescribable grimace, threw his

its

arms about

neck.

The mule reared with

its

bound

the lad clung fast and anxiously to

still

neck as he
the mule

huno; on, but was fated to

fall,

for

finally

plunged to one

side,

pitching the naked l)oy

on to the sand.
tators
smile,

For the

first

time

saw the spec-

some even laughed

hills,

aloud.

The mule

trotted off towards the

followed by the shout-

ing lad, whose unclothed

dust.

form was covered with

Such clowns often appear on the scene during

festival
;

the part always lacing played by a negro.

his mule,

The black boy must soon have caught

12

178

CAVE DWELLERS
a few

for

minutes after his

first

performance he

again rushed by to repeat his uncouth " fantasia."

After the

pahmquin had been present

it

at

the

" powder-pLay " for about half an hour,

was conat

ducted towards the caves.

The "fantasia" being

;

an end,
before,

all

the people followed the bride

some going

some behind the camel, and others alongside

of

it.

The

whole ground

seemed sown with a

crop of burnouses.

The Khalifa rode up and

gave directions to
I

Hamed and

Ali as to where

was to be placed

during the remainder of the function.

We
where
I

took a short cut back to the Khalifa's house,

was stationed on a

chair, over the entrance

gate through which the bride would pass.

From my commanding
the spot where the
first

position
sat

looked
to

down on

women

and sang

me on my

evening.

Gradually more and more

till

men and

boys arrived,

the slopes were crowded.

In front of the gate was

Belkassim, the ubiquitous Belkassim, keeping back the boys with his marshal's stick.
also,

Amor was

there

and a

little

later the Khalifa

arrived on his

mule.

These kept a small space clear near the gate.

it

Pressed together close beside

was a group of

girls,

mostly half-grown
they were very
as they

in

their light-coloured clothes

effective.

They

chaffed one another

bride.

watched

for the

advent of the

By

FANTASIA.
(From a
sketch by

Knud Gamborg.)

179

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES

IN

HADEIJ

i8i

chance one ortheni looked up and caught sight of

in

me

an instant

slie

had imparted her interesting

dis-

covery to the others, and

inquisitive ghuicc

many

a pretty, roguisli, or

was cast on me.

When
girl

nodded

to them, they tittered,,

and the biggest

withdrew

the kerchief from before her face.

The Khalifa on
ing order.

his

mule had enough to do keep-

His angry voice thundered not only at

the boys, but also at the

men who pushed

forward to

have a look.

At

length

the

musicians

and the red-topped

all

palanquin came in sight.

around.

Gun-shots exploded

Four negroes appeared, tripping along with

a swaying motion from their hips, and playing, two

on drums, and two on clarionets

hideously over the
hill.

the music shrieking

Behind them came the

gifts.

palanquin, followed by the mule with the

short distance from the gateway they halted,

to kneel.

and the camel was ordered

beast refused
;

The obstinate

supported by the men, the palanquin

swayed from

left to right.
little

Poor

little

Mena

you

were to be worried vet a

to be allowed to leave

longer before you were

your cage.

At

last the

men

succeeded in makino- the camel

its foreleg, its

kneel and in binding

miuQ-linoj

complaining roar

with the rest of the infernal din.

I

The negress stood beside the palanquin, and

saw that she conversed with the captive

perhaps

i82

CAVE DWELLERS
to reassure
her.

seeking;

She stretched her black

to pass
It

arm beneath the canopy

which

in

a finger-ring a

Amor handed
l)rotlier,

her.

was evidently

wedding present, but whether from Amor

from his
ascertain.

Iiimself or

the Ijridegroom,

was unable to

In the meanwhile, on the small clear space in front

of the gate, a carpet

had been spread, and on

it

mattress, on which was placed a large flat pan filled

with sand.

The men busied themselves stripping the palanquin of

its

canopy of hangings and

kerchiefs,

and

when

this

was done they and

set her

lifted

down

the closely

veiled bride

on the ground.

The negress

took her by the hand and led her within a couple

of paces of the edge of the carpet, where they re-

mained

standino^.

Round

it

some men had stationed

themselves, holding unfolded burnouses spread above

their heads, so that carpet

and mattress were hidden

from view.
I

could not understand what these preparations

could portend, and asked

a whisper, that
cised,

Hamed.
l)oys

He

explained, in

some small

were to be circum-

and pointed out three men each holding a

These children were from two to
little

child in his arms.

four years old

one of them was

first

Hamed, the

bridegroom's son by his

wife

another. Amor's son

Mahmud

and the third

little l)oy

was

also a relative.

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES

IN HADEIJ

183

The children wore red caps with

tassels richly
far

adorned with gold and silver ornaments, and, so

as
I

coidd

make

out, chains

hung about

their ears

and

necks.

They were dressed

The two

in coloured coats,

below

which appeared white shirts and bare legs encircled

by anklets.
as if they

elder chikhen cried incessantly,

knew what awaited them, but

the youngest

smiled and looked about him.

The music

in the

meantime drowned the screams

Belkassim disappeared beneath

of the small boys.

the coverings, and one of the small l)oys was carried

in.

After a time he was brought out, fainting, and

;

was taken to the cave

the other boys followed in the

same manner.
During
this

ceremony,

which lasted

at

least

twenty minutes, the bride stood, closely

the carpet.
o;old

veiled,

by

Extending her right hand, decked with

and

silver rino;s, she took

some leaves from a

basin held by a negress and strewed

them over the

drums

covering, and, whilst the music played and the

boomed,

saw the slender

little

arm continually

moving

to

and

fro sprinkling the

"henna"

leaves

above the boys and men.

At
etc.
first

last the l)oys

were taken away, and the carpet,

fulfilled

removed.

The maiden bride had

the

of her duties

she

had blessed the ceremony.

purified,
in

The children being now

token thereof
I

water-coolers were broken on the ground.

observed

i84

CAVE DWELLERS
chopped eggs and a great quantity of food

also that

were distributed to the assembled children.

The scene

had just witnessed was so

all,

full

of a

charm, and, above

so

impressive,
its

that

for

moment
restlessly

was almost awed by

solemnity.

At the end

of the enclosure the crowd kept

moving

backwards and forwards, endeavouring to

w^as

see

what

going on, for the bride was about to

enter her house.

Mohammed's

first wife,

closelv veiled,

came

for-

ward, and, taking her rival by the hand, led her into
their
dwellino;.

On

the other

side of the bride

walked the negress, who

for the last time, after

little

many
foot-

years of loving care, directed her

steps.

Mena's

On

her head was held a

little

mirror, wdiilst

she herself grasped wdth her right hand the hilt of a

long,
straight,

double

edged

sw^ord,

the

point of
" Be-

which, carried foremost, was borne by a man.

ware

Ill

befall
;

those

who would

injure

tliis

pure

young woman

the sword would avenge her

"
!

Thus, to the screaming of the music, the young

bride entered the gate.

As soon

as the door

had swuno--to on

its creakino^

hinges, guns were discharged in every direction with

a deafening noise, and

in haste

was compelled to al)andon

my

exalted seat, for the

smoke nearly choked

me

as the

men and boys

fired wildly in front of the

gate.


BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ
It

185

was then past noon, and there ensued a pause

musicians requiring
witli rest, beino;

in the festivities, the

cxju^eted

to

phiy

renewed

vij;()ur

in

tlie

evening.

The numerous guests were

and
tents.

fed in the dwellings

Before the meal the people collected in

trees,

groups under the

and friends and acquaintances

sat surrounded

conversed together.

The Khalifa, who

by the sheikhs of the

myself near him.
Several of these

villages, requested

me

to seat

men were known

;

to me,

and

thanked them

for their hospitality

I

others invited

me

to their villages.
I

replied that time

was

short,

and

must hasten over the mountains and on

;

to

Medinin

on the plains
me, for
I

so on this occasion they

must excuse

could not accept their invitation.

visited Judlig,

"But you have

Zaraua, and

Ben

Aissa, Tujud,

many

other villages in our land.

You

accepted the invitations of their sheikhs

then, will 3'ou not also visit
i

wherefore,
?

Ben Sultan
to our
will
'

"

said the

sheikh of that

villao;e.

"

Come

Ksar,'

and

if

you

will
I

remain a long time you

I

be welcome."
all

explained that

had to go

the

way

to

JMedinin,

where

was expected, but the sheikh

and the Khalifa put
in

would take no
word, saying
"
'

refusal,

his

You can
'

ride
;

to-morrow to Beni Sultan, and eat

thence

kus-kus

there

you can go on

to Tujan,

i86

CAVE DWELLERS
there,

sleep

and next day

ride

straight

to

Me-

dmm.
"

But

was informed at Gabes that

coidd not

ride a

horse over the mountain on account of the

road being rough and impractical)le."

"

You
But

shall

have a mule which

will

carry you

anywhere."
"
I

my

horse and
"
?

my

Spain's horse,

what

shall

do with them
"
I

will take

them

to

Gabes with
" I

greetino;;s

from

you," said the Sheikh of Tujan.

am

just about

to travel there to confer with the Khalifii,

and so

must

also the
is

Sheikh of Beni Sultan."

all

"That
" No,

very well, but

shall not see any-

thing of yourselves."

unfortunately w^e

are

compelled
;

to

be

away, as the Khalifa has summoned us

but the

men

in our

villages will receive

you

well,

and be

pleased at your visit."

I

could but consent, and thank

them

for their

invitation.

The Sheikh of Beni Sultan was a proud, generous

man, who was
Tujan
official
is

said to be very wealthy.

under the Khalifa of Gabes.

This

had sent and

his friend, the Khalifo of Hadeij,

five
o^oats

a fine bull

as

an offering towards

the feast.

For an hour

I sat in

conversation with the men,

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ

to

187

whom

offered cioarettes, the ohl Khalifii havino-

a positive weakness for these, to

him

rare, articles

of commerce.

After

sauiiteriiio'

for

some time amonost

I

the

various groups to greet the people,

returned to
a

my
I

cave.

It

was quite dark

lit

couple

of
all

candles,

and occupied myself making notes of

had seen and heard, Mansur, Amor, and several

sitting
I

others

round me, and giving me any exLittle

planations

desired.

Ali and

his

brother

were
often

my
in

faithful

interpreters,

but

my work
to

was
me,

interrupted,

so

many came

salute
;

perhaps

hopes of being offered cigarettes

and

the room

filled

by

degrees.

At
me.

last

meal-time approached,

and

they

left

So

for once I ate all the

good things

in peace.

Soup, ragout of fowl, roast kid, kus-kus, bread and

honey,

and

dates.

Only Mansur remained with

me, and overwhelmed

friendship),

me
I

with

assurances of his

which
I

heartily returned.

When
yard.
lighted,

had eaten,

looked out into the court-

The great vaulted

and was choke

chamber opposite was

full of

men

eating amongst
for
it is

the

pillars.

Deep

silence

reigned,

not

considered correct to be noisy

when

eating.
Ali,

In the room next

my

cave were

Ilamed,

and many

others,
in

busy eating up the remains of

the

my

meal, and

long cavern

passage

stood

i88

CAVE DWELLERS
Under

our horses devouring their plentiful fodder.

the palms, the olive trees, and beneath the tents,

all

were in
I

full

enjoyment of the wedding

u})

feast.

stepped out and went

the

hill,

where the

stars twinkled

above me, and

caves
in

all

was

still.

Out

of

the

the

heart of the earth,

side,

streaming up from the courtyards on every

I

saw rays of

light

coming from the women's dwellalso enjoyed the

ings,

where they and the children

banquet.
It

was nearly seven

o'clock,

and

it

would not

be long ere the rejoicings recommenced in the enclosure

before

the

gate

with

song,

music,

and

dancing.

But the hour was

also

near
to

when the
his

bridegroom would present

himself

bride,

accompanied only

Ijy

a few friends.

As

stood, lost in
at

thought, Ali came hastily

and pulled

my

burnous,

whispering that the

his

l)ridegroom had sent

friends,

me

message by one of

who was
I

seekino- me.
I

As
"
Sidi.
I

returned to learn particulars,

met the

messenger.

Mohammed
Will you?

asks

if

you

will

accompany him,

And

shall I lead

you?"

consented without hesitation, whereupon we,

I,

the messenger, Ali, and

started at once on our

way

in the

dark, going through

narrow lanes

in

the direction of the mountains.

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ

All aromid
as

189

was

(juiet,

and Lecame even more so

ourselves and
t]ie

wc

})ut

distaiici'

l)ul\veeii

festivities.

Suddenly a
probaljl}'

doi;

Larked in the darkthe

it

ness
a

we were

in

neighbourliood of
ceased

dwelling-place.
its

Soon

after,

barking

we were beyond

domain.

The messenger, who was one of the bridegroom's

intimate friends, took
perceived
that
J

my

hand and

led me, as he
in

had some

difficulty

finding

secure footing, aiid

my

little

Ali

walked on the

other side of me, clinging to a fold of

my

burnous.

When we
I

had proceeded thus some ten minutes,

figures
his

made out some dark

before me.

These

were the bridegroom and

friends.

They were
I

scjuatted on the ground, ]jut rose

when
I

approached.

By

the faint light of the stars

distinguished
red

an average-sized

man

clothed

in

burnous,
it

beneath which showed a wdiitc haik

perchance,
fez

could

be,

my

gift

On

his

head he wore a red

bride-

with a

tassel.

This was evidently the

groom.

Addressing
friend, as

me

he

said,

" If

you

will

])e

my
and

you have become that of

I

my

father

ray brothers,

shall be grateful

to

you, and will

beg of you to accompany

I

me

shortly to

my

house."
I

thanked him

for his

invitation,

which

was

delighted to accept.

The

Ijridegroom's toilet

was evidently only just

I90

CAVE DWELLERS
Jew
wa.s still present,

completed, for a young

father I

whose

had

visited during

my

first visit to

Hadeij.

He was
groom's
valet.

very busy arranging the folds of the bridecostume,

having

doubtless

acted

as

his

We

all

sat

down

together.

pleasant

scent

of attar of rose was w'afted from the bridegroom's

clothing towards me, and he produced a

of this, and passed
it

little

phial

to

me

to use from.

When

he

stretched out his hand, I noticed that rings glittered

on

his

fingers,

and that he held a pocket-handI

kerchief,

luxury

was not accustomed to

see

hereabouts.
"
I

Are you married

"

he asked me.
"
?

answered, "Yes, surely."

"

How many
"
!

wives have you

" I have only one."

" Only one

I

explained that in our country

It

we were

in the

habit of having only one wife.

to us to have several.

was forbidden

Why, he
I

could not comprefit

hend, and at that

explain.
" See,

moment

did not think

to

Mohammed,"
it
is

said,

" I

will

confess to

you that
a

not good to have only one wife, for

man

is

her slave.

Two

wives must doul)tless be

;

worse, for then there can be no peace

but

tell

you

that, in

my

opinion, a

man ought

to

have three

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ

wives, neither

191

more nor

less.

With that number

and take refuge

he can pit two against each

with the third
to vary."
;

otlier,

but

in

such case he must be careful

Mohammed

understood

my

joke,

and invited me

at once to visit Hadeij next time he should marry.

Lighting one of
round.
little

my

cigarettes,

passed them
to the Jew,

When
Ali

was about

to otter

them

hastily pulled
ofier

my

sleeve and wdiispered,

;

"

You must not

low
in

him any

he

is

a Jew."

did so notwithstanding, and probably by this act

fell

All's estimation,

tempt

for the

Jewish race
I

"Those

so innate

is

the con-

dogs!"

Afterwards
stupidity on

found

it

had been a great piece of

my

part to have sliow^n civility to the

it,

Jew.

He misunderstood
him down

and became intrusive

1

and impertinent,
to set

so that later in the evening

had

sharply, causing

little

Ali to laugh

a laugh of superiority.

Although much tempted,

verse

did not try to conlife,

with the Ijridegroom

it

about his home

indelicate.

knowimj that

would be considered

For

an Arab never asks even his best friend after his

wife's health.

The most he may say

"
?

is,

"

How

is

it

with your house

When we
a

had waited there

in

for

about an hour,
it

man came running

rose,

to say that

was time.

We

and

was told that amongst good friends

192

CAVE DWELLERS
was alwcays customary
to

it

cany

the Ijiiilegroom
So, a
lift-

part of the

way

to the bride's apartment.

ing the heavy

paces.
this

Mohammed,
and,

carried

liim

few

He was

evidently pleased at
the

my

doing him

friendly

service,

form having been

and, taking

gone through, sprang quickly down,

me and

one of his other friends each by a hand,

Before us sped a young

began to run.
rest followed.

man

the

We

were breathless when we reached

the caves.
All was in order.
to gather immediately,

A crowd

of spectators began
in

and we slipped

through

the
into

gates

and down the passage, rapidly crossed

first

the

court,

thence

through

the
court.

underThis

ground passage and out into the other

was half-dark, but from one of the caves shone a

lio;ht.

Here we entered.
its

The vaulted

oblong;

room
up.

\Yith

whitewashed walls was

brilliantly

lit

At the

far

end a carpet hung right across the room,

;

concealing something on the ground

in front w^xs

spread

another carpet.

Here

Mohammed

seated

himself, facing the door.

There was no other furni-

ture visible.

On

the bridegroom's left his friend took a seat,

pointing to

me

to

take

my

place

on the right.

There was not the slightest sign on the features of

the former expressive of any emotion, either of gladness
or
gravity.

To the looker-on he appeared

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ

merely phlegmatic, and
staring into
sat,

193

wrapped
friend,

in his cloak,

vacancy.

His

who was

also

clothed in red, sat, like himself, in silence.

In

the open doorway

saw the faces of Bel-

kassim and Mansur, also some children, Jews, and

the

men who had

followed

us.

No women

were

present.

AVhen we had been seated thus

for a while, there

appeared, from the part of the room divided from

us
1)y

the hangings, a large dish of kus-kus and,

a pitcher of water.

soon

after,

These were placed

a

before

Mohammed, who
first

took
for

mouthful of the
his bride.

food

the

meal prepared

him by

We

sat silent a

moment

longer, then Belkassim

I rose,

dismissed the spectators from the door, and

shook hands with

left.

my

friend the bridegroom, and

I

In

the

doorway

looked
stiff,

back.

There sat

the
I

bridegroom,

dumb and
it

but behind him

aside,

saw the carpet being drawn a

little
I

and

in

the
a

dim

light

beyond

fancied
it

caught sight of

woman's

face.

AVhether
not.
I

were pretty, young,

or smiling, I

know

only

know

that

it

must

have been the

bride's.

In the open air the festival was in full swing.

Closely packed in front of the gate, and
all

along

the approach, sat veiled women.

The banks and The negroes

hollows were white with spectators. danced,

13

played, and

drummed.

There a mulatto

194

CAVE DWELLERS
;

sang a droll ballad

dance, and so on.
I

here two

men danced

a stick

had been requested to take

my

place amongst

the bridegroom's friends,

who

held themselves in a
this last day's

group apart, prepared to show him

homage.

About an hour

elapsed, then

from the bridal

;

cave a mufHed gun-shot was heard

noticeable,
as

it

was scarcely

the

shrieking and booming of the

all I

music overpowered

sounds.

Ali hastily

handed

me

a gun,
fired

which

discharged, and

several shots

were

from our group.

this

Every one of those

present

knew what

meant, and rejoiced, but

Ijride.

none more so than the family of the

They,

who had waited

night,
at

anxiously, were reassured, for she

silent

would not now, under cover of the

dark

and wrapped
given
to

in a

grey blanket, be hunted

village,

word out of the

and

and driven
parents

home
The

sorrowing

disgraced

and

relatives.

festival

was not interrupted, but continued

as before.

With the Khalifa by

by
his sons, the sheikhs,
all

my

side,

and surrounded
I

and the principal guests,

remained seated

the evening and far into

the

night, watchin; the

entertainment, that in course

of time became very monotonous.

Now

and

again

some

men

stepped

forward,

BRIDAL FESTIVITIES IN HADEIJ

either singly or

195

two together.

Over

their shoulders

hung red

cloaks,

and they posed

in graceful atti-

tudes, with their heads held high, one foot forward,

and the

left

arm hidden beneath the burnous and

rij>lit

the red cloak, whilst the

hand was extended.

On
the

each side of them crouched a negro, with the

flaps of his

burnous spread out before him to catch

shortly
to

coins

be thrown to him.

Round
drums

these fio;ures danced other neo-roes, whilst the

played.

Now
his

one of the red

fiorures raised

an arm and

threw a coin into the negro's

lap,

then again, slipping

hands into the folds over

his breast, pulled out

all

another coin.

This went on incessantly, that

might witness how much money was distributed.

First
it

was the turn of the representatives from

Beni Sultan, then from Zaraua, Tamezred, or other

villages,

who

in this

way paid

the tribute expected

of

them on such

festive

occasions for the benefit

of the negro musicians.

When

at last the

men

ceased,

and the chink of

coin was no longer heard, one of the negroes ad-

vanced towards the group of women, and,

singing, half-declaiming, told

half-

them that the men

so

of such

and such

villages

had given

much, at

the same time praising not only their generosity,

but also their other virtues.

Now

and then

his

song was interrupted by the "Yu, yu" of the women,

196

CAVE DWELLERS
this evening,
c[uite

which

owing

to the

number

of voices,

sounded

imposing.

When

he concluded, the

applause was deafening.

Now

and then a

solo

was sung, two or three

voices joining in the chorus that followed, the singers

sticking their noses as close together as they could

during the performance.

These songs are always

sung

in a nasal tone,

without any modulation, and

the time never varies.

CHAPTER

XI

Over the Mountains and aceoss the Plain FROM HaDEIJ to MeTAMER
During
morning
the
nio-lit

most of the quests wended

a

their

way homewards, but

;

few

still

remained

next

some of whom desired

to

accompany me

to Beni Sultan.

The bridegroom was expected

his cave at

to

emerge from

any moment,

so I lingered awhile, partly

farewell,

in hopes of bidding
1

him

and

also because
rejoic-

had been told he would be received with

ings,

and would distribute sweetmeats amongst the

children.

village

But
and
I

tlie

time

fixed
off

for

my

departure came,

had to ride

without

witnessing this concluding scene of the festival.

Mansur's mule was brought me.

self

The Khalifa him-

arranged

my
me

saddle and lengthened the stirrups,

tJie

thus showing

final

marks of courtesy.
I

He
took

then orave the euide his instructions, and

my
and

leave with
to his sons,
little

warm
and

expressions of tlianks to him

also to the assemliled

men.

rewarded

Ali for the services he had rendered

off

me, bowed respectfully to the Khalifa, and rode

197

igS

CAVE DWELLERS

with

my

heart

full

of gratitude towards

him and

his people for their great hospitality,

and with the

pleasant impression that

my

stay in the

Matmata

mountains had given

me

the opportunity of seeing

to
in

manners and customs which,

European had yet witnessed
thankfully recognised

my

knowledge, no
I

these regions.

my

good fortune in having

;

had the goodwill and assistance of the authorities

and was, above

all,

grateful for the great hospitality

of the people from

whom

had then just parted,

I

and
I

for

their friendship

which

flattered

myself

had gained.

mule saddle
pack.

is

very broad, and resembles

peculiarity
it.

somewhat a

Its

is

that

the

stirrup-leathers are not secured to

leather

strap with a stirrup

hung

at each

end

is

slung over

the saddle, so that, to mount, one must either vault

into the saddle without setting foot in the stirrup

or be lifted into

it.

To anyone accustomed
it
is

to the

ordinary

English

saddle
it
is

an extremely

un-

comfortable seat, as

necessary to bear equally

on both

stirrups, or
off";

one risks losing one's balance

I

and

falling

but

must say
on the

my

mule proved
mountain

to be altog-ether a success

diflicult

road.

For nearly an hour we rode along the mountain

top,

whence

we

had

lovely

view

then

we

descended into a long valley in which were

many

FROM HADEIJ TO METAMER

hcilf-dead olive trees

199

and green palms.

Just as

we

began the descent, we met a couple of men on their

way

to

Hadeij from Beni

Sultan to complain to

the Khalifa that their sheep had been stolen.

In the valley was a deep, broad river bed, then

dry,

and the mountain

sides were furrowed with deep

watercourses leadinof thereto.

a

In these furrows stood

number

of palms surrounded

by embankments.

We

halted in a lovely grove of olives, amongst

which sprung a few palms.

guides awaited
us.

Here some of our

crossed the mountain

They had

by

a shorter but precipitous path,

whilst

we had

circled

round by a

less steep

and fatiguing

route.

From an eminence some way down

we observed
This was the ancient Beni Sultan,
in ruins, the present village lying

the valley

a villag-e lookino- like an eagle's nest.

now

deserted and

on the incline on

the farther side of the mountain.

few of the

houses in this deserted

villaoje

were excavated in the

ground.

We
a

travelled directly across the valley, and

by

very dangerous and slippery path reached the

lowest point of the mountain ridge.

From

thence

we looked down on the

valley on the other side.

village,

Facing us were the ruins of the old

picturesquely against the sky.

standing
in a

We

rode

down

zigzag line past the farms and houses scattered on

the

mountain

side

the

dwellings

were crowded

200

CAVE DWELLERS
men and women, and
we
halt, close

with domestic animals, with

especially with children.

Not

till

we reached the

valley did

to the descent to a cluster of cave dwellings belong-

ing to the Sheikh, in absence of

cordially received

whom

was most

by one of

his nearest relatives.

The passage

to the cave
it

was not covered, and was

cut into steps where

sloped

down

into the ground

towards the gate.

steps was

On one
a vaulted

side of the wall

by the

dug out

and somewhat decorated

I

cave

this
I

was the guest-room where

dined.

After-

wards
with

visited the nearer of the Sheikh's houses,

permission

to

examine them from

top

to

bottom.
In the main these dwellino;s were on the same
plan as those of Hadeij, but
in
I

found several cisterns

ruins.

both the farms and the

Water flowed

from the mountains into these through canals and

primitive pipes.
\

The caves were not

all

duo;

down and around

courtyard, but were often high up

dicular wall,

on a perpen-

and were reached by

offered

steps.

The women
their looms.
I

me

dates and showed

slept, generally

me
on

saw where they

benches like low tables, called by them "mokera."

In one of the underground vaults, to which the access
mill,

was through a very heavy

in

gate,

was an

oil-

and

another a granary.

FROM HADEIJ TO METAMER

201

After spending a couple of hours in the shelter

of the caves,

we again

started riding through the

valley in a southerly direction,

large

and passing through

palm and
I

olive

groves.

Nowhere

in

the

mountains had
Close to the
in

seen such rich vegetation.

villasje

were some ten

women

clad
few^

dark blue, drawing water from one of the

wells on this mountain.

Two

large columns, formed

of

hewn

j^alm stems, were inserted on either side of

the well, so as to slope inwards.

These supported

another palm stem placed horizontally on the top of

them

this again sustained a

wooden disk by means

This system

of which the

water was hauled up.

is

of drawing water

rather comical, for the

women,
their

instead of hauling up the bucket

by moving

hands on the rope,

seize the latter

and take a quick

run, the distance covered being equal to the depth of the well.
ful of

When

they have thus drawn a pitchcr-

water they return to the well to take another

run.

We

constantly passed spots in the valley planted

less largely

more or

with olive

trees,

l)ut

some of

these were in an unhealthy condition, showing grey

or yellow instead of
a,

deep fresh green.

If rain
it

were not soon to

be

fall

these

would

die,

and

would

many
fruit.

years before others could

be grown and

bear

It cut

me

to the heart to see all this wealth on

202

CAVE DWELLERS
verge of destruction, and the more so when
I

tlie

learnt that the

Khahfa owned many of the

trees.

Rain had
in this.

fallen in

many

other districts, but none

Quitting the valley

we turned

to the right,

and
cliffs

rode in a westerly direction amongst colossal

and into a wild ravine, where we were surrounded

to

the

nortli,

west,

and south by towering rock

this

pinnacles.

Only the very centre of

sun,
in

chasm was
the

reached

by the

which,

hidden

behind

mountain,
a rift in
this
rift,

streamed

glorious
clift'.

radiance

through

the wall of the

On

either side of

with the light playing on their roughly

piled grey masses, were the

two

villages of Tujan,

clinging to the precipitous sides like swallows' nests

to a wall.

On one

side,

high up the mountain,

caught a glimpse of what appeared to be an eagle's

nest as the sunlight glanced on
it.

On

inquiring

what
old,

it

was
tlie

received the reply that in old, very

village

days

people resided there, before

slope.

they moved lower down the

When we
" Erzib
village,

arrived at a difficult pass,

his

my

guide,
in

ben Hamed," who had

asked

home

the

me

to

dismount.
up,

So,

leading

our

animals,

we walked slowly
rattlino-

our feet slipping,

us.

and the stones

down behind
mounted

Beneath

some
entry.

olive

trees

we

aa;ain

to

make our

FROM HADEIJ TO METAMER

203

We
rift

were now near

enouo;li
;

to discern that the

was a deep

ravine

on cither side was an

irregular

mass of dreary, grey houses piled one over

above which the nearly perj)endicular
steeply
to

the
cliffs

other,

rose

almost

the

very

top

of
flat

the mountain, broken only in one place by a

surface.

On

the side nearest to us stood the ruins

of bygone days,

of the

village
castle

perched
cliff.

like

medival
I

on the summit of the

sat in silent
till

contemplation of this imposing

sight,

interrupted

by

Hamed,

the

faithful

Hamed, who came up dragging

him.

his horse

behind
at the

He

told

me

to turn round

and look

view of the Mediterranean.

Great
heavens
!

how

glorious

was

the

sight

when

raised myself

and looked back.

the

It w^as so

beautiful that

even

Hamed and
directly

Arabs

w^ere

awed by

its

splendour.

Looking down
valley,

over

the

slopes,
side,

the

and the mountains on either

we saw
In the

the blue sea far

away beyond the

plains.

evening light
yellow,

all

the tints of blue, violet, brown,

softly

and green were

veil

blended and inter-

mingled as into a

which spread over the whole

landscape, and imagination divined more than was

actually visible,

thus adding to the fascination of

the scene.

By

the

first

house,

the

Sheikh's,

we

halted.

204

CAVE DWELLERS
out,

Some people came

but
in

one of whom,

suppose,

acted as his representative, since he invited

me

in

Hamed was
to

ah-eady off his horse and had gone

the
quarters.

look

at

He

returned

and
I

announced that they were very bad, upon which

inquired

whether notice

had been given of

my
The

coming, and whether the Sheikh had not directed

that I should be given decent accommodation.

spokesman
available.

insisted
I

that there was no other

false,

room

suspected this to be
Erzib to

and ordered

Hamed and

mount

their horses at once,

and we rode up a narrow lane and alighted outside

Erzib's dwelling,

where he had already told

I

me

should be welcome.

heard the

man

following us,

and saw that a number of people had gradually

assembled.
Erzib's dwelling lay high
cliff,

up on the side of the

still,

but there were others that were higher

and yet others below.

In front of these dwellings

ran a narrow path, that, starting from the highest

farms, led in a zigzag course

down

to those below.

The outside of the path was on the edge

declivity,

of a steep

down which
;

all

refuse w^as thrown,

all

and

was therefore dirty

l)anks

looking, as did

the other

when seen from

a distance, as though scored

with black stripes.

On
a

the slope below us was a

it

house with a courtyard between

This yard, in which

and the

cliff wall.

woman was

working, was

FROM HADEIJ TO METAMER

completely open to view.
gradnally

205

Thence the ground

fell

away
;

till

it

ended in palm-grown gorges

hills,

and valleys

beyond these were low

then a

plain, and, last of all, the sea.

Below

us,

and a

little

to

one

side,

was the

principal edifice of the village

little

mosque, or

Marabout's tomb, outside which a crowd of

men
the
dis-

had gathered to perform their evening devotions.

Kneeling almost simultaneously,
earth and rose again.

they kissed

few of them presently

appeared through the open door of the Marabout's

tomb, but the remainder stayed outside.

Looking upwards, the eyrie on the summit was

visible

above Erzib's house, that

is,

one could

dis-

cern

it

by stretching
end to the

one's neck.
left,

On

the opposite

side, at the

lay

tlie

other village.
sallied

In

the evening

the

women

forth

in

num1)ers to fetch water from the cisterns in

valley,

the

and the

village dogs barked, answ^ering each

other from every side.

slope, a

Below

us, at the foot of the

I

crowd of men gathered.

could hear their

shouts and see their gesticulations,

as,

with extended

arms, they pointed to one figure.

Some
us,

of

them

turned and called up the bank to

beins; the

one of them

man who had met me on

I

the Sheikh's behalf.

They shouted that

wherever
I

should come

down and

live
I

pleased with the other men, and

I

when

replied that

was well

installed,

they informed Erzib

2o6
fowls, eggs,

CAVE DWELLERS
and bread would shortly be
sent,

tliat

that the stranger guest might have a really good

meal prepared

for him.

Through
a court.

a very broad

gateway

descended into
its
it
;

Opposite was a long house with

own
and

entrance, to the right another resembling

between the two was a passage leading to a third

dwellino- that
w^as a wall.

was situated at the back.

To the

left

On

the

flat

roof of the nearest of these houses

stood some enormous rush-bins for corn, and in the

courtyard was another.

places,

There also were two

fire-

one on either

side,

screened off with branches.

left sat a

Behind the screen to the

small
fao;o;ots

woman
Some

laying
it

on the

fire

to

warm
set.

her hands, for

was cold since the sun had

children

came out of the

sight of me,

door, but fled

as I

when they caught

wrapped

was

in the folds of Erzib's

burnous.
elderly

From

the door on the left peeped out an

and rather nice-looking woman.

:

These two were Erzib's wives

house
seated
;

each had her

own
saw

the children belonged to the

woman
forward.

by the

hearth.
his

Erzib

told

wives to come

This

they did
again after

quite
I

naturally

and

willingly,

retiring

had shaken hands with them.

saw people arriving with screaming
Erzib at

Soon

after, I

fowls and a basket of eggs and bread.

FROM HADEIJ TO METAMER

once drew his knife and vanished with the hens
intentions were easy to divine.

207

his

In the meanwhile carpets had been spread on

the floor of
I lit

tlie

house, and a couch arrano-ed for me.

a candle which had been placed in a small square

recess in the wall.

The room was very

was of beaten
clay,

irregularly

shaped.

The

floor

and the walls

not whitewashed.

In the background a door led into

another room containing a loom, and where gala

dresses
wall.

hung on

a cord,

and household goods on the

in the wall to the
it

Through yet another door

was a room with a bed
stumps
:

right
slight

in

raised on four

this

was made of

twigs,

and had no

coverings.

This dwelling was inhal)ited by the younger wife

and her children

two

boys and a

little girl.

The

wife was pretty and not old.

In the house in the courtyard the elder wife

resided.

In this the anteroom was larger, and con;

tained household goods and implements

behind

it

was the sleeping apartment.

grown-up married son, then absent, occupied

a house tucked

away

at the back,

and designed on

the same plan as the others.

His wife was at home.

in

Whilst the

pile of

wood burnt and crackled

the yard and the

I sat

women were busy

in

prej)aring food,

on a bank outside the house

company

of

my

host and several other men.


2o8

CAVE DWELLERS
The moon had
risen
I

and

shone clearly over

mountain and

vale.

could see

down
hung

into a courtfire

yard at the foot of the slope, where a

brightly on
a
hearth.

burnt

Over

it

cauldron

watched by the housewife.

pretty,
little

She was young and

to

and

as

she

moved

and

fro a

couple of

children trotted after her.

still,

Now

and then she

stood

shading her eyes with her hand, and

;

gazing up in our direction

possibly in the stillness

it

of the night our voices reached her, for

likely that she could see us.

was not

By

the hearth a white

dog lay and growled, and when the woman paused and looked up he moved
watchino; the stranger.
Erzib's first wife
restlessly, for

he also was

came out and stood leaning

She
did

against

the

doorway.

not

speak,

but

was evidentlv interested

in our conversation.

Her

husband glanced at her and said abruptly

"

She has a great sorrow, and has grieved and

for

wept

many

years.

Ali, her

only son, who was

in service at Gabes,

was sent to prison, accused of

having stolen money from the tradesman he served.

But he was innocent

that we know

he was a good
is

boy, and his mother loved him.

It

now

four

years and four months since

eight

we heard from him, and

months more must pass before we can have

again."

him home
"

Do you

not even

know

if

he lives

"
?

"

"

FROM HADEIJ TO METAMER

" Yes,
is

209

we have

learnt through strangers that he

to

alive,

and supposed

be imprisoned at Bona

in Algeria."

The
she

woman drew herself was close to me when she

old
talkino-.

along; the wall

till

heard of what we

were
"

Are you from Bona

I

"

she asked, whimpering.

a

" No,"

replied,

"

come from
in

much more
with

distant place,

and have never been

Bona."

"

Ah

then you do not

know

Ali," she said,

a sob.

*'No, poor

woman,"

replied; "that

do not

but now you will soon see your son

alive.

You

have waited so
time will
be

lone;

for

him that the

he return
for

remainino^

soon

pass

ere

to

you and
love

happy with
will

you

again,

you

him.

He
will

have thought so often of you, and he

so

be

good to you that both of you

Avill

rejoice."

"

Ah

it

was a great misfortune,

for

he was

innocent

am

sure of that

another must have

been the
"

culprit, for

he was so young."
?

How

old was he
I

"That
" Don't

do not remember."

you know what year he was born

cannot recollect
;

" No,

we never know any"

(

thing of that."
" Don't
14

you know

either, Erzib

2IO
"

CAVE DWELLERS
No, Sidi
;

but
^

it

was before the strangers came

to this country."

The poor woman sobbed

"

audibly,

and

Erzib

pushed her inside the door that her weeping might

not trouble me,
Sidi."

saying,

She

is

very

unhappy,

"

Oh

yes, Erzib.

Would
But

were able to help you

to get back your son sooner, or at least to procure

you tidings of him.

this I can

promise

will
if

speak to the Khalifa of Gabes on the subject, and,

possible, send

you greeting from your

however,
I

son."
I

To

my

regret,
later to

must confess that

for these

was unable

do anything

poor
not,

folk.

Whether the boy

is still

in prison I
I

know
of his

and

whether innocent or no,

know

less.

My

sincere
parents'

hope

is

that

he

may

be worthy

touching

affection.

The repast was now brought and

the

set

out

in
it

house, on the clay floor, wdiere I enjoyed

his

the father, surrounded by

caressed, sat aside
wife.

children

whom

he

with

Hamed and
and

the younger

When
also eaten,

had

finished,

Hamed and
I

Erzib had

we remained

seated.

talked with the

wife about her children.

The

eldest

may have

l)een

about ten years old

^

he was a lively boy,

no account of their
age.

who

The Arabs

in this country keep

is

The most

they can remember

that they were born the year this or that happened.

FROM HADEIJ TO METAMER

nodded
coiitiiuicilly to nic,
all

211

and was

indefiitigablc in

showing me
old

the treasures of his home, from an

musket
I

to his father's agricultural implements.

at a very primitive

When
gave
it

showed surprise

and

curious harrow used to break

to me. in age to the

up the

soil, his

father

Next
girl

boy was a very pretty

little

about six years one eye

;

old.

Unfortunately she had

lost

her father told

me

that

it

was

in con-

sequence of a severe attack of inflammation when

she was quite
little,

and that the eye had

fallen

out of

itself.

Here

in the south one

meets with an

alarming number of people

ing from eye complaints.

who

are blind or suffer-

doctor told
it is

me

that

many

are born thus

with others

the result of

dust, heat,

and uncleanliness.
child

The youngest
two,

was a

])right little fellow of

who clung

to his father,

whose neck he clasped

tightly in his arms.

Feeling disposed to take a stroll before retiring

to rest, I

bade Erzib follow me.

As we crossed the
like to see
first

court, he inquired
all

whether

would not

the

dwellings.

Accordingly we went

to

visit the elder lady.

When we

entered with a light

we found her crouching

in her

in a corner,

her face buried

hands

beside her lay a large

dog which

growled at me.

Thence we went into the

son's house.

Asleep

212

CAVE DWELLERS

on the bed, quite dressed,

undress at night,
clothing
;

for

the natives never

in blue

was

woman wrapped

she was evidently the son's wife.

till

We
we saw

walked on and up amongst other houses

at the top of the village.

we were nearly
the

Beneath,

lig-hts

and

fires in

the courts, and heard

the incessant barking

of dogs.

Shortly

after,

we

climbed a

difficult

ascent just over the village, to a

ledo^e or terrace of
cliff,

some width cut

rose,

in the side of the

which from thence

quite

straight

and

steep, to the old deserted village that lay in dark-

ness on the very summit.

According to Erzib, we
on.

could not reach

I
cliff

it

from the side we were

contented myself with examining some real

caves,

which

lit

up by means of matches.
terrace, and, accord;

They were excavated from the

and not very

ing to tradition, had once been inhabited

irregular in forin,
large.

they were

After an hour's enjoyment of the beautiful evening,

we descended from
Wrapping myself
in

this high point.

my
;

burnous

lay

down on

my

couch on the ground

Erzib.

in the

same room lay both

Hamed and
mother.

In the side chamber, of which

the door remained open, slept the children and their

Just as

was

falling asleep a
;

and spread a covering over me

it

woman came warmed me well,

and

slept

till

daybreak, and was only once diskid coming in through the open

turbed by a

little

FROM HADEIJ TO METAMER

213

door leading from the courtyard and tripping over

me.

heard then

the

cliildren,

who with

their

mother were sleeping

Erzil)

in the

next room,

Hamed and
I

moving on

their beds, and, out of doors, the

distant and continuous barking

ao-ain,

of dogs.

slept
l)een

and when

awoke saw that what had

a brand

spread over
evidently
guest.

me was

new

festal

garment that
for

was considered none too good

the

From

the doorway overlooking the courtyard

saw through the gate and down into the

valley,

where grew a solitary palm, and at the same time

had a view of the
fiat roofs

of several houses, and of

the path where the horses and mules stood ready

saddled.

From

a side

chamber the head of a cow

and above the gateway

came peering
a white
I

in at the gate,

dog lay on the wall watching me.

cliildren, ate a

gave some money to the

couple

of dates with a sup of water, and, having thanked

the

women

for

their

hospitality,

mounted, with

Erzib in front and

the

Hamed

behind me.

As we

left,

women came
From

out to throw refuse

down

the slope,

and vanished

acjain

behind the

wall.

the hearths rose a light blue smoke that

us.

was wafted over the valley beneath

We

had a view over the mountains of the

valley,

the plains, and the Mediterranean Sea, as

we followed

the route along the Avcstern declivity of the Mat-

214

CAVE DWELLERS
wliicli

mata range,

commands
away

the

low-lying land

that extends right

to Tripoli.

For a while we were accompanied by two women

who were on

their

way

to the mountains.

They

tripped along beside our horses, and stared at

me

in

astonishment through carelessly drawn

veils.

The mountain
Shenini

tops,

where
a

lie

the villages of
of

and Sguimi, are

ranofc.

continuation

the

southern
ants
crops,

As

was aware that the inhabitwere

al)sent

of

these

villages

sowing their

and having been told that the dwellings were had already
therefore left
seen, I decided not to

similar to those I
visit

them.

We
hills,

them on one

side

and

rode

down the mountain and

by
behind which
this plain
is

across a small plain

lie

encircled

the great steppes.

hills,

Towards the east

bounded by low

where water springs are found, and where we could

descry herds grazing.
ing through a
little

It

was here

that,

when

pass-

thicket,

we spied

a covey of

partridges running amongst the bushes.

to
fire

Erzib tried
it

at

them from

his horse,

but

would not
was too

stand long enough, and when he got

late

off it

the birds had

llown.
last

Before traversing the

of

these

hills,

we

halted and partook of dates, bread, and water, as

many

hours would elapse before

habitation.

we

could arrive at

any place of The

ride

on the mule

liad tired

me, so

preceded

FROM HADEIJ TO METAMER

215

the others on foot, and reached the farther side of

the acclivity.

There

lies

an interminable

flat

plain

stretching as far as the eye can reach from the east

to

the north-west

whilst

towards the south the

In the
its

mountains fade away in long undulations.

midst of the plain
I

distinguished a

hill,

and on

summit what appeared

to be a tower or fortress.
It corre-

This was the sional station near Metamer.

sponds to the one we saw near Gabes, and also to

another farther south.
I

wandered down

the

gentle

slope,

through

bushes and among stones, and crossed the bed of the

river, that,

coming from the mountains, winds out

There were
I

into the plain.

many

paths, all leading

in an easterly direction.

followed one of these,

crossed yet another stony torrent bed, and continued

steadily towards the east,

making the

signal station
I

my

point of direction

until,

looking round,

dis-

covered the two riders in their white burnouses far

away towards the

south. to

They beckoned

to

me, as

we were compelled
rouo'h

make

a detour to avoid a

and uneven river bed.

Joining once more

my
;

party,

we rode

farther

and farther over the

desolate
hill

plain,

which becomes dismally

with the exception of the

and monotonous
its

and

signal station, nothing breaks the long

line of the horizon.

At

last

we viewed

in the distance a couple of

2i6

CAVE DWELLERS
trees,

palm

and concluded that the Ksar of Metamer

l)iit

was probably near them,

all,

we could not

see

it

at

as

it

lay in a hollow.

For long, naught but these trees showed on the

level horizon. trees

Then

at last the tops of other

little

palm
;

appeared, and a

later

some huts

the

number
outskirts

of these increased, and proved to be the of the

town.

The huts
a rule,

branches
thatch.

^were
But
it

of

straw and

round, as

with a pointed

was easy

to infer that the inhabit-

ants

were absent, as the network which usually

encloses the verandah that runs round each hut had

been removed, and only the centre of the huts

mained, their thatched eaves sticking out
so that they resembled thick
stalks.
all

re-

round,

mushrooms on short

As the day advanced, the heat became

so that
I

stifling,

took off

my

gaiters

and bared

my

legs.

But

after a couple of hours they

were so scorched by
I

the sun that, on arrival at Medinin, doctor to dress

sun-scorch,

had

to ask a

them
it

for

me, to ease the pain of the

re-

and

was eight days before they

covered.

CHAPTER

XII

Metamer and Medinin

Arriving
at the

palm grove

in the hollow

we had

seen from the distance,

river
Ijed.

we found
were not

that

it

lay l)y a
well

The

trees
l)e

particularly
;

cared

for, as

could

seen at a o-lance

thov were

far apart,

and there were few ditches

for irrigation.

On
it,

a slope to the east of the valley

is

and above

there

a village of peculiar construction, with

buildinsis that are dazzlino- in the sunis

whitewashed
light.

This

the

"Ksar" Metamer.
is

The ground

plan of the houses

oblong and rectangular, and

their raised roofs are vaulted.

as the houses

They

lie

lengthwise,

do at home in towns datino- from the

o-able

Middle Agres
streets.

the

ends turuin; towards the

In general they are erected round an open

square.

The

fronts of those facing

the plain are

without any aperture, except some loop-holes here

and

tliere.

In

other words,
as a

every
a

quarter,
little

and

also the

town

whole, forms

fortress.

This
plains
in

is
;

the style of building adopted here in the

it is,

in fact, the

same plan
217

as that

employed

cave construction, but in this case carried out

2i8

CAVE DWELLERS
;

abovegroimd

since the

natives have found

it

im-

possible to reach the inaccessible

to dig

mountain peaks, or

down

into the rocky ground.

higli.

The houses

are

very often seven storeys

is

On

every storey there

This
is

a well-barred door to the inner gable.

reached by steps or by stones projecting from the

walls.

The

effect is

most peculiar and picturesque.

Each inhabitant
takes with

carries in his

hand

key that he

him everywhere.

This locks his rooms,

stores.

which are mostly used as corn

Not
little

far

from the "Ksar" are barracks

for the

garrison,

and shops that supply the needs of

the soldiers, not only of the place, but also of those

quartered in the neighbouring town of "Medinin."

I

did not wish to visit the

camp

just then, so dis-

mounted outside an Arab

to enter

dwelling,
kid.

and was invited

and partake of stewed

After a hurried visit to the town, and having

taken leave of Erzib,

who

desired to ride a long

I

way

towards his home that evening,

procured a new

guide and rode eastwards over the plain, so as to

arrive before nightfall at the

Ksar of Medinin.

As

we approached

its

neighbourhood we turned into the

highroad from Gabes.

Before us and to

our

left lay

the

"Ksar"

of

Medinin, illuminated by the evening sun.

The ends

of the houses were turned outwards, producing the

effect of a circular wall scalloped at the top.

Above

A STKEET IN BEN I

J'.AUKA.

219

METAMER AND MEDININ

these

221

vaulted gable

ends

caught a glimpse of

higher buildings, and amongst them, in the centre

of the

town, a large square block.

This was the

in the

Kasba.
houses
I

Through
saw the

narrow opening
inner gable ends

row of

of dwellings,

and doors disposed one above the

calling to

other, the whole

mind the

pictures

one sees of Mexican

"pueblos."
Parts lay in deep shadow, parts blinding white
in

the sunshine.

These lights and shadows were

mingled

in such dazzling contrast that the eye could

scarcely discriminate

what

it

beheld.
till

We

rode along the exterior wall

;

we came

to

some palms

farther on

grew

others.

These plantait

tions are to the south of the

Ksar and between

and the European quarter, which showed up gradually

on the

right,

and consisted of barracks

for the

cavalry and infantry, quarters for the

those occupied by the

officers,

and

"Bureau de Kenseignement."

The

soldiers

w^ork

amongst the palms, and have

In the beds

enclosed a plot of ground as a garden.

I

saw tender young green plants sprouting, which

cress.

proved to be
headquarters,

In the open square in front of

and before the other houses, holes

in

were being dug for plants by soldiers

clothing.

light linen

In the future the whole military quarter will be

surrounded

by

beautiful

palm grove, affording


222

CAVE DWELLERS
now completely exposed
to

shade to the dwellings

the glare of the sun.
I

rode up to headquarters
flag;

large building

where the

was hoisted half-mast hioh on account

of the death of Marshal

MacMahon.

Lieutenant Henry, who was at the Bureau, came

out to welcome me.

He

told

me
I

that I was expected,

officers

and added that

4tli

should meet the

of the
at

Light Brig;ade,

whom

had known well

Gabes, they having arrived to relieve the southern

station.
I

was quickly conducted

to real bachelor's

quarters, consisting of a couple of rooms.

All over

the walls

hung weapons and

The
furniture,

curiosities collected in

these regions.

though camp-like, was

to indulge in

very comfortable.

At

last I

was able

the luxury of a bath and change.

In the meantime

Hamed

arrived to say farewell.

He

wished to ride back to Metamer on his donkey

as far as Tujan,

and accompany Erzib

hoped
to take the

whence he

donkey back to Hadeij, and return

later to Gabes.

When

was dressed

I called

on the CommanderBillet, a

in-Chief of the district,

Commandant

young-

man, who invited me

to be his guest.
I

When

told

him that
if

was most anxious

he replied, to
thirty -two

to

meet some Tuareg

great joy, that
farther

possible,

my
wish

by riding some
I

miles

south

should

probably have

my

METAMER AND MEDININ

gratified,

223

as a telegram

had just arrived from the

signal station that

two of these men had come to

Tatuin, the most southerly station, to purchase corn.

Whether they might not have again

left

he did

not know, but at any rate there was a chance for me.

Relays of horses and an escort should be at

disposal

my
I

whenever

desired

them

but he hoped

would stay over the morrow, that

officers.

might meet the

The garrison

at this military post consists of a

company
small

of infantry, a squadron of cavalry,

artillery.

and

detachment of

The

soldiers
officers

are

lodged in large airy barracks, and the

comfortable quarters in

have

new

buildings.

There are no
all

women
is

within the camp, therefore

soldiers,
officers

domestic service

performed by

who
form

act as cooks

and chambermaids.

The

themselves into committees for the control of supplies,

and

at their table one dines to verify that

remarkably well, as

had occasion

same evening.

Lieutenant Henry introduced

me

to

his mess.

There

met most of the messmates of Gabes, and

to the clink of glasses.
to the military club,

we renewed acquaintance
After dinner

we adjourned

where we met

all

the officers of the o-arrison, both

young and

old.

Next morning Lieutenant Henry accompanied me

to the Ksar.

We

first

ascended the minaret, from

24

CAVE DWELLERS

which we had a beautiful view over the town and

pkin.

Then we

visited the various groups of houses,

with their vaulted gables and remarkable steps to

the upper storeys.
projecting

These steps were merely stones

there

here and
of

from the wall

to

for

the
up.

convenience

those

who wished

climb

MEDININ.

\- Several of the

groups of houses clustered so closely

together, and leant so

much

the one upon the other

in endless confusion, that it

was extremely

difficult

to find one's

way through

the laliyrinth.

By

a narrow opening, so low that

we had

to pass

through with bowed heads, we arrived

yard, emerging thence

in a court-

by

a larger opening like a

METAMER AND MEDININ

gateway, built as a defence.
the
sides,

225

Through

loop-lioles in

a severe fire

might he kept up on an

attacking enemy.

A
but defence
sup-

In a few of the outer walls overlooking the plain

I

noticed the same loop-holes

is

j^osed

to be maintained from the roofs, or rather

from the central building/J

It surprised

me

not to see more

men about

but

f-

my
had

cicerone explained that nearly all the inhabitants

sallied out

on the 20th of this month, and had

gone towards Moktar and the Tripolitan frontier

nearest the sea, to follow their agricultural pursuits.

There they

live in tents

first

to sow, later to

watch their

fields,

and

finally to gather the harvest

folio wino;

not returnino; until the month of June the

year.

Then they bring home the

harvest,

and store
|

the products in the Ksar, which thus becomes what

it is

intended for

a great
of

fortified granary.

At the time

my

visit,

there remained in the

Ksar only about a couple of hundred men, who were

merely
left to

guard the houses.

different in the
five

The place looks quite

July,

month

of

when some one thousand

hundred or two

thousand

men

arrive

and pitch

their tents above the

Ksar

they depart again

in October, after

they have

stored the l^arley, wheat, maize, " sorghum," beans,

and

millet.

The inhabitants
15

])elono;

to

the Berber tribe of

226 " Tuasin," and

CAVE DWELLERS
number some
fifty

thousand

souls,

dwellers in the Ksar and on the plain.

at least the

They

possess

same number of camels, a couple of

thousand asses and twenty thousand sheep, from

which

it

may

be gathered that the greater portion

In

are nomads, rather than dwellers in the oasis.

fact,

they care

little for their

plantations.

In the groves near the Ksar grow palm, olive,

and

fig trees, also

;

a few pomegranates, peaches, and

ill

apricots

but they are

tended, and produce but

poor crops.
r^'

The mode of

life

of the inhabitants

and

their

perpetual

feuds with the tribes

on

their

frontier

have caused them to develop into a brave

warlike people.

and

Every man owns

a firearm, which

he does not hesitate to use on the slightest pretext.

If hardly pushed, he flies to his fortress with all his

possessions
It
is

and

cattle

there he
the

is

in safety. \

natural that the Turks in Trijioli should

regard

with

mistrust

French

occupation

of

Tunisia, which they have never consented to recognise

;

and on that account have never been disposed

to have the frontier defined.

To

this

day

it

remains

undetermined, perpetual frontier conflicts being the

result
;

for the

tribes

on either side

still

look on

the country, as they have always done, as their

to dispose of according to their will

own
;

and pleasure

and, as hitherto, prefer to settle disputes in their

METAMER AND MEDININ

own way.
in bringing

227

But the French occupation of Metamer,

Medinin, and Tatuin has been of no small service

about peace and quiet in these regions.

side of the frontier
is

The northern

especially

desert and barren, consisting only of interminable

sandhills destitute of veoetation.

South of

this are

far-stretching
foot,

steppes,

seldom trodden by human

silence reigns.

and over which a deathlike

are

No

paths

traced

through these deserts to guide

the lonely traveller

who may venture

fear to

to penetrate

them.

Even the natives

enter a territory

where any
as an

man they may meet must

be regarded

enemy.
a junction with

To the south the steppes form

the

Matmata mountains, and

are frequented only

by the Tripolitan

tribe of Nuail

and the Tunisian

Urghamma.

These alone, therefore, would be capable

of defining the Ijoundary of this desert region, as

their

wanderings have made them well acquainted

its limits.

with

The Uro'hamma
apparently takes
ancients
havino-

its

from which continent Aurigha of the name the become Africa numbers some
trille

this

"

"

thirty thousand souls.

At one time they mustered

thousand
soldiers,

some

four

or

five

and
of

w^ere

exempted by
as

the

Bey from payment

themselves
to

taxes,

they

had

])ound

defend

the

frontier.

228

CAVE DWELLERS
The
fact was, that

they would not pay taxes.

of their peculiar position to
;

They took advantage

make armed
and gloried

forays to rob and plunder far and wide

in deeds of bloodshed, engraving a
for each

mark

on their guns

man

they slew.

Guns covered
still

from stock to muzzle with such marks are

be met with.

to

With the advent

altered,

of the French, circumstances

to the supervision of the

and now, thanks

authorities, the

military

Urghamma behave more

Southern Tunisia
I

like peaceful
'

nomads.
in the plains of

Everywhere

found remains of ancient towers

ruins,

now

lying

in

since the need

for

them no longer

exists,

but where formerly the nomads sought refuge when

they were pursued.

The decay

of these

towers

proves that the French have

known how

to establish

quiet and order in the country.

According to inquiries which

south, the

made

in

the

Urghamma

are divided into the following

groups

The Khezur and the Mehaben

Medinin.

in

and around

The Accara on the

The Tuasin on the

coast.

plains.

The Uderma on the mountain

plains.

slopes

and on the

The

Jelidat people the eastern mountains.

METAMER AND MEDININ

The Duiri
are found in the mountains

229

and on

the high tablehmds.

We

visited the

Jews

in their

own

quarter,

and

conversed with a couple of women, who, with their

children,

lived

in

little

hut stuck

away

in

corner of a yard.
sayer,

One

of the

women was

a sooth-

and showed us a book with closely written

leaves, evidently the source of her cunning.

In a large open square on the outskirts of the

Ksar stood a hut, occupied by a family of

only the
entered.

whom

women and
It

children were at home.

We
^

was dirty and comfortless, containing

no furniture, not even the indispensable " senduk."

The hut was

together,

built
in

of

slender

branches

wattled

and

many

places

was covered with old

circular with

rags to keep out rain.

The form was

a high-pointed roof, evidently carrying out the idea

of a tent.

The

fireplace

was

outside.

In the evening, after a jovial dinner with

Comwere

mandant
present.

Billet, at

which most of the

officers

Lieutenants

Adam,

Coturicr,

and

Druot

started southwards with a

retuiii in

company

of Zephyrs, to

two night marches

to Tatuin, a distance of

thirty-two miles.

They

invited

me
we

to breakfast with

them next day

at Bir el

Ahmer.
off as
is

The bugles rang,

said

and the sections tramped

au

revoir.

The

w^ater in

Medinin
1

very unwholesome, and

Clicst.

230

CAVE DWELLERS
it
is
fit

requires to be distilled before

to drink

a
;

huge

distilling apparatus has therefore

been erected

this has a

number

of taps, whence the distilled water

flows drop by drop.

sentinel watches

it,

that the

precious liquor

may

not be wasted.

Not

far

from

this is the post oflice,

which

is

also

the telegraph

office for

private telegrams, the helio-

graph being used

for military purposes.

is

Night and day, watch

mountains and
west,
far out
flash

kept on the tops of the

on the plains to the north-

that the

connection

between

Gabes,

Medinin, and Tatuin

It
is

may
a

be constantly maintained.
strict

expedient that

watch be kept,

for

frequently in the middle of the night a

is

summons

flashed,

and there must be no delay

Billet not being a

in replying to be trifled

Commandant

man

with on matters connected with the service.

He
well

rides long distances

on horseback to inspect
all
is

the various southern posts and to see that

;

and many a night has the startled guard seen

nrrive,

him

ha vino; ridden over the mountains in

pitch darkness to
is

make

a visit of inspection.

He

ubiquitous, and of an

astounding energy, only

rest,

allowing himself four hours for

his horse once more, or goes to
table.

then mounts

work

at his wTiting-

As an example of the Commandant's

one of the doctors told

iron will,

me

that some months ago

METAMER AND MEDININ

231

he was attacked by fever, just at the time that the

General arrived to make an inspection.

Notwith-

standing the fact that his temperature was at 104"

Fahrenheit,

Commandant
liis

Billet

left

his

bed and

accompanied
all

superior officer on horseback round

the outposts.
still 104.

When

he returned his temperature

was

On
tracts

his spirited horse he has covered prodigious

of country in the south,

often under very

trying conditions.

Lately he rode over eighty miles

;

on a mountain track in five-and-twenty hours

not

being met by the persons he expected, he took a

couple of hours rest beside his horse, lying lightly
clad in the cold night
air,

and then resumed

his

journey.

He
ture.

told

me

himself of a rather amusing; adven-

On

a pitch-dark niglit he was riding

el

home

to

Medinin from Bir

Ahnier.

When

he had ridden
his

so long that he believed he

must be near home,

horse became restive and left the path.

After some

time had elapsed, to his great delight he rode against

a telegraph post, for he

knew

that

by keeping along

the telegraph line he

should find his

way home.
to the great

But, alas
at Bir el

when

mornino; Ijroke he was })ack aijain

;

Ahmer, whence he had started

soldiers,

astonishment of the

who

evidently thought
:

he had returned to take them by surprise

rode home.

he then

232

CAVE DWELLERS
As
in Algeria, the

army

in Tunisia lias literally

paved the way

to civilisation

by making roads across

the mountains and over the plains.

But

their

work

is

far

from confined to

this alone

they plant trees and dig wells, and are soon followed
1)y

telegraphic and postal

officials,

but above

all

by

the schoolmaster.

Where
we can

the soldier has cut a way,

If

the schoolmaster can beo;iu his work.

we

call to

mind

my little
called

Ali

best understand and value

his labours.
I

on the postmaster and the schoolmaster

of Medinin at the officers' club.

They were
in

energetic

young men whose work goes hand

of
tlie

hand with that

interpreter,

soldiers.

There also

met the

a perfect gentleman

who spoke

faultless French.

tattooed
origin
;

mark on
he was a

his

forehead alone betrayed his

a married man.
officers
:

Mohammedan and

Besides himself,

only one other of the

in

Medinin, a captain of cavalry, was married

he lived

with his wife within the Ksar.

CHAPTER

XIII

Southwards over the Plain to Tatuin

It was early morning on
tlie

28th October

the sun
I

was just

rising, the horses

were ready, and

swung
and

myself into the saddle to start on a day's march of a

little

over thirty-two miles.

Commandant

Billet

Lieutenant Henry accompanied

then bade
direction
;

me

part of the way,

me

farewell and galloped off in a different

the gallant chief intending to join that

his

morning one of
the north.

companies then on the road to

The sun
tains

rose above the plain,

it

and

lit

up the moun-

which encircle

to the eastward like an outlying-

wall, and,

beginning in the north, stretch along to

In front of

the south as far as the eye can reach.

us rode a Spahi from the Bureau in his light l)lue

burnous, and l)ehind, wrapped in his crimson cloak,

paced the trooper furnished by the Spahi regiment.

Theirs
are

beautiful

uniforms,

but should \m

seen in brilliant sunshine and with Africa's g-olden

sands as a backo;round.

have seen these uniforms

in the streets of Paris in dull weather,

and they were

disappointing.

"

234

CAVE DWELLERS

We

had ridden long at

foot's pace,
I

and

it

was

time to push on.

"Forward, forward"

shouted to

our leader, after taking off

it

my

burnous and laying

before

me

on

my

saddle.

My

handsome brown
in front of

horse broke into a gallop.

The trooper

me
and

rose in his saddle

and stood

in his stirrups, as
tail

his horse "

threw his head and his

dance

to the winds

let his legs

like drumsticks," as

my

friend

the "Jgermester" at

home used

to say.

The red

Spahi followed.

My

horse was eager to join the

others in front of him, but I held

him

in.

After a good long gallop

we slackened again

to

a foot's pace, and I ejaculated, "

He

pulls like the

deuce

"Oh,
"

sir,

he thought a mare was leading."

;

Nonsense

can't he tell the difference

"
?

"No,
stallions,

sir; the

Arabs always ride mares, therefore

see the Inroad back of an
it is

when they

Arab

saddle, conclude that

I I

on a mare."

observed here some of the small round mounds

had seen elsewhere, and which may be either

graves or the remains of vanished dwellings.

couple of hours later

we

descried,

beyond the
This
is

mountains, a white spot on the horizon.

Marabout toml) on the plain

of " Bir
el

not

far

from the well

Ahmer."
hot, but, rain

The sun was very

fallen,

having recently

the earth smelt fresh and pleasant.

OVER THE PLAIN TO TATUIN

At long
iiitervals

235

we saw

here and there people

in every direc-

at work, for the tribes

had scattered

tion

to

sow and plough.

There, where at

other

seasons flocks of antelopes are

wont

to gladden the

sportsman who roves over the barren plains, are now

gathered
little

bands of men and

women

to

till

the

ground rendered moist and

the

fertile

by Allah

and

smoke from
from
all

their

encampments may be seen

rising

points of the compass.

From
ahead,

the Marabout's

tomb the ground

and on the

falls

away

a little towards the south,

level,

not far

we saw

the square- walled enclosure of the

scpiat tower,

well with in one corner an old, low,

against which was propped a house.

Soon we distinofuished the

little

tentes

d'ahri

pitched in straight lines, and, moving amongst them,

the soldiers.

We

reached the well, having covered the twelve

miles in two hours and a half, and I found a fresh

horse and

new

escort awaiting me.

night.

The company had arrived during the

The

men had

slept

and cooked their

food.

Lieutenant
Cultin,

Adam and
so
I

the regimental doctor, M.

had

ridden out to shoot on the neighbouring mountains,

went

in

quest

of Lieutenants Coturier

and

Druot,

who greeted me with "Bon

the
horses

jour, camarade."
fed,

Whilst
watered,

were

unsaddled,

and

and the cook

l)usied

himself

preparing

236

CAVE DWELLERS
fire

breakfast at a

in

an angle of the wall,

was

refreshed with a glass of wine.

The

officers'

camp beds and canteens were

in the house,

con-

veyed into a cool room

and the tables

and

chairs were arranged in the shade outside.

The walls of the

fort, or

rather the caravansarai,

are so low that one can see over

them when seated

is

within the courtyard.

It is

not garrisoned, and

inhabited only by an old Arab,

in

who

strolled about
sell to

an enormous straw hat.

He bad

barley to

those

who
"

required

it,

and presided with much pride

over a large register, in which the " Chefs de Detach-

ments
well.

have to note the numbers encamped at the

it is

Moreover,
is

his

duty to take care that the

]jy

well

not damaged or misused

plain,

the Arabs

who
His
little

wander over the

ditions,

and who, under certain con-

are

allowed access to the enclosure.

straw hat interested

difficulty I

me

greatly,

and with some

it

succeeded in purchasing
I

from him.

Lieutenant Coturier and

plain.

took a walk on the

Just outside the fort were some miserable

1)iiilt

huts

of branches and straw, where

we saw an

ancient crone, probably the wife of the old Arab,

fussing about her hearth.

Near the huts were three

laden

two-wheeled
horses in

carts

all

ready

and with the

the shafts.

In the shade beneath

them

some Europeans and Arabs lay and dozed, whilst

the horses and mules closed their eyes and slept in

OVER THE PLAIN TO TATUIN

their luirness, the Hies

237

huzziiig nbout tliein in the

intense heat.

Farther on, we found on the plain two

women

and a man busy ploughing.

To two of the ploughs

were yoked camels, and to the third a mule.

Both the women were very lightly clad on

count of the heat.

ac-

The younger was

exquisite in

her grace as she paced, goad in hand, behind the

plough, and by the

movements of her arms revealed

figure.

her perfectly formed

see her bracelets

From

afar

we could

and anklets

glittering in the sun.

We
ing "

stood and watched

route,

them awhile

until, say-

En

mon

ami,"

my

friend took

my arm
where

and we sauntered on over the heated

plain,

through refraction, distant objects, even though small,

appeared to be in constant leaping movement.

We
drew

turned towards the blue mountains, in hopes

of catching sight of the sportsmen, for breakfast time

near, but

no one was

in sight

so

we

strolled

back to the

fort,

and lying on the camp beds dozed

the time away.

It

was nearly eleven o'clock before we heard the

arrive.

riders

Lieutenant

Adam had

shot

some

partridges,

and the doctor a hare, which hung from

their saddles.

In the meantime breakfast had been prepared,

and the table

Before

w^as laden

with good
the

thing-s.

we

sat

down,

doctor

examined a

238

CAVE DWELLERS
of sick
;

number

men, of

whom some

hobbled up

unassisted
backs.

others were carried on their comrades'

a few were really unfit to march, but

Not

many were shamming.

The African Light Brigade

the

Zephyrs

is

composed of men who, through

misconduct and

frequent punishment, are removed from their regi-

ments

in

France to serve the remainder of their

time in Africa.

The heterogeneous troops that form the Foreign

Legion can, to a certain extent, be moulded into a
united body, imbued with a strong
esj^rit

de corps

thanks partly to stern discipline, and also to the fact

of the Legion being aware that
l)ut
it

has burnt
is

its

ships

the case of the Light Brigade

quite different.

The men enter

mitted in other
propensities,

it

on account of offences combut they retain their

evil

localities,

and indeed

it

would not be easy

for

them

to improve while forced to associate with so

many bad

characters of every variety

fear alone

keeps them straight.

It is true that a "

Zephyr,"

if

he conduct himself

well for a certain length of time,

may

be sent
Li

home
he

to his division, but this rarely occurs.

fact,

may even
but this
is

be promoted in the Zephyr Brigade

yet more rare.
officer

itself,

French

told

me

that

the

difference

between a soldier of the Legion and a Zephyr was,

OVER THE PLAIN TO TATUIN

that
a

239
thief,

Legionary, even

thougli

lie

were a

would be forced to cease from being one, but a

Zephyr,
if

he were not a

thief,

would certainly

learn to be one.

In old days the Zephyrs fought well in

a close action,

many
war

and

their behaviour in time of

has often been

l)rilliant,

but in time of peace they

are of little worth.

It follows that the

commanding

officers

must be
chiefs.

of the best

for

it

is

sharp work for the

the
officers

For that matter

all

in

Alo^eria

and

Tunisia are especially selected.

Many

lieutenants

have year after year sought

service

in vain to

be sent on
others

with

the

troops

in

Africa,

whilst

speedily obtain this privilege.

there

Every
as

year's service

counts as double, both

regards

pension

and decorations.
I

have seen lieutenants wearin; the Legion of

solely

Honour

because

they

had

had

sufficient
clief

length of service in Africa, whilst a young

cle

hataiUon,

newly

arrived
all

from

France

where
of

he had served during

his career,

the

earlier

portion

had earned no decoration.

it is

Indeed,

really surprising that an officer

who

serves in Algiers or Oran should thereby gain so

many advantages
a
little

over another

who

is

stationed in

provincial
it is

town

in

France.

As regards

Tunisia

intelligible,

many

parts of the country

240

CAVE DWELLERS

being unhealthy, and the heat ruining the nerves

and being the cause of mental

strain

but in

Alejiers

bit of Paris

My new

escort, sent

from Tatuin, was ready, and

past
I

the hot midday hours being

until the morrow.

said farewell

There
miles to

still

remained

between four

and

five

cover,

and we might not

on,

loiter

on the

way

so

we pressed

alternately

walking and

cantering, keeping close to the

light.

mountains on our

Half-way between Tatuin and Bir

passed some soldiers

el

Ah mer we
a well.

who were busy digging

They had pitched

from

a little tent, and provisions and

water were sent them occasionally.

selves
their

Raising themus
as

work

they saluted

we

passed.

Presently mountains appeared in the south and

south-east,

and on the summit of one on our front

we
the

distinguished the signal station of Tatuin.

foot

At

of this

mountain we passed some palm

valley.

trees,
full

and then turned into the

This

is

of palms,

and on the southern

side lay a little

Ksar, similar to those with which

we had already

made acquaintance
At
a

at

Metamer and Medinin.

but nearer the oasis and on

little distance,

the slope, stand the military buildings.

As we rode

towards the

Bureau we met a

OVER THE PLAIN TO TATUIN

couple of natives.
I

241

"

Are the Tuareg

still

here

"
?

asked. " No, they have probably left

;

they came to buy

corn, but there

was none to be had, so they went

away."
Just as the sun set
I

dismounted, and saluted a

group of

officers

who awaited me.

walls of the

The whitewashed
which
I

two rooms into

was shown were hung round with weapons,

implements of the chase, and ethnographical objects

collected from

the Tuareg.
;

It

was a typical

lieu-

tenant's quarter

the owner was in France on leave,

his

and

in

his

absence

comrades had placed his

rooms at

my

disposal.

Captain Beranger,

who was

to be relieved

the

day but one following, invited me

little

to dine at the

mess where the infantry

officers,

the

post-

master of the town

young Cavaignac, a descendant

of the celebrated general

and an
There
I

officer of

engineers

were to dine.
After dinner
officers

we spent our evening with other

met Ben Jad, an
handsome

at the

casino.

old native lieutenant of Spahis, with a

Arab
of

face,

and wearing the Cross of the Legion

his breast.

Honour on
for

He

promised
I

me

good
to
I

horse

the

morrow when

took

my way
Tunisia.

Duirat,

the

southernmost village of

met

also the interpreter 16

and the lieutenant of the

242

CAVE DWELLERS

Bureau and Dr. Renaud, their medical man, who

talked with
to

me
I

about the country, and' promised

do what he could to get hold of some of the

Tuareg,
told

whom

so longed to see
little

but of this he

me

there was

hope.

CHAPTER XIV
DUIRAT

The

route to the south from Tatuin leads through o a

iVt first

valley.

we

traversed the oasis, riding under

the shade of the palm trees, then followed the course

of the dried-up river bed in the bottom of the valley.

On
villages.

the top of a

hill to

our

left

were a couple of

To the

right were other dwellings,

;

some

of which were caves

others were white houses with

vaulted roofs.

An

hour later we saw on a heio-ht to the eastfortress of

ward the

Beni Barka.

This

is

a village

of narrow streets enclosed within a wall.

The houses

are similar to those of other African villao-es.

Yet a

little

farther on
in

we passed another we had

appeared

village,

which was built

a square, and composed of the

buildino"s
;

same

oblono;

vaulted

seen
to

at

Medinin and Metamer

fortified.

it

also

be

We
plain

then

emerged on an open goklcn- yellow

gradually to
the
left,

that

rose

solitary

steep mountain lying to the south.

also
243

To the west

was a large group of magnificent, precipitous

244

CAVE DWELLERS
;

mountains
l)ut

behind these we were to find Duirat,

to reach it

we had

to go

round the mountain

we saw

to the south.
later,

When,
found
tlie

we approached

this

mountain, we

ground completely covered with every

;

kind and shape of rocks and stones

seen elsewhere such a rocky waste.

never have

We
region,
horses'
slope,

wheeled round outside this beautiful rocky

picking our
legs

way very
be
of

carefully

lest

our
steep

should
rocks

injured.

On
very

the

broken

every size were

at

tightly

packed
beetling

together,

and,

the

top,

great

crags

seemed prepared to plunge down

the precipice.

On
tall

the southern side of this stony waste, and

standing away from the rocky range, were a few

cones
I

of truncated

form.

To make a short
itself,

cut

rode between them and the mountain

but had to proceed very cautiously, as the ground

was

terribly rough.

The sun was

stirred as

frightfully hot

not a breath of wind

we plodded

along,

my Spahis

chanting

now

and then a monotonous song.

Beyond

us, the plain

appeared to quiver in the glare of the sun, reflected

from a

Ijright, white,

gleaming surface, which

last

appeared to be a lake, but was only u

" shott,"

where the water that had flowed from

during the rainy season rose in vapour.

tlie

heights

DUIRAT
I

245

could not conceive whence came the sound that

during some few minutes had reached

looked for a cause, but

my

ear.

my

eyes detected nothing.

in the

At

last

saw, far
cliffs

away

shade under the

overhanging

of an isolated peak,

some

dull,

dark spots and dots, and amongst them made out

j^:

DUIEAT.

the indistinct outline of a female figure

a shepherdess with her goats.

evidently
in the

As we approached,
pure

her song rose and

air.

fell

clear

and ringing

We now

entered the valley, and turned in a

Before us lay Duirat, a

north-westerly direction.

grey mountain, shaped like a sugardoaf.

At

first

it

was impossible

to

distinguish

any

246

CAVE DWELLERS
we had
crossed the valley and

dwellings, but after

the bed of a stream, and had reached rising ground,

we made out
Below
it,

clearly an old castle on the summit.

at different heights along the path that

wound upwards, we saw

amongst or behind

houses, and in one place,

these,

we caught

a glimpse of

dark cavities, which proved to be entrances to caves

in the

mountain

side.

These caves consist of several

is

vaulted chambers, access to which

through a small

doorway.

The

actual chambers resemble in every

respect those of the Matmata.

As

a rule, they do
;

not

suffice

for

the

requirements of a family
flat

an

ordinary house with a

in

roof

is

therefore built
cliff.

front of

them on the terraced

Through

the house a passage leads straight into the cave,

so that

anyone outside can see right through the

little

house, over the

courtyard, and into the door-

way
as

of the cave.

There are doors to most of the dwellings, but,

these cannot be constructed of palmwood,

the
;

materials have to be brought from a great distance

costly

undertaking,

and

the

cause

of

many

poor wretches living doorless and exposed to the

elements.
I

went

in

to see the Khalifa, an exceptionally to

clever

and amiable man,

whom

brought greetvisited

ings from

Drummond Hay, who had

him

during; his tour.

DUIRAT
As
was
I

247

had no interpreter with me, our conversation

T

limited.

managed
it
I

to

make out

his replies to

my

questions, but

took time.

The breakfast

had brought with me

ate in

company with the

man.

Khalifii, the Sheikh,

and another

The preserved meats and the

delicate bread

especially delighted them.

In return they offered

me

kus-kus, eggs, and black bread.

The Khalifa and the Sheikh

Arabic in
a

w^rote their
I

names

in

my
of

sketch-book, that

might carry away

I

memento

them

in return

presented them

wdth

my

visiting-card, wdiich

was put aw^ay with

great care to be exhibited to future travellers.

I

inquired

about Hamed-ben-Amar's

relatives,

but at the time none were at home.

On

the wdiole

saw very few people

at Duirat.

The inhabitants
agriculture, as

w^ere

probably away, occupied in

in other villages.

was the case

The Khalifa spoke much of Drummond Hay, who

had evidently made an
him.
ineffticeable

impression on

From him

learnt that the latter had scaled

the mountain, visited a spring in the valley, and

had afterwards galloped

to Shenini, a village

on the

summit
I

of a neiojhbourino- mountain.

am

convinced that the secret of the success of

Representative amongst the southern

the English
tribes

for

it

was not the

first

time

had heard

his

name mentioned

in these parts

originates as much

248

CAVE DWELLERS
father's

from his having inherited his

insight into the
as

remarkable

manner of

thouglit of the Moslem,

like

from the fact that he speaks Arabic

native.

Again, he has inherited his father's strong,

fearless nature,
It

and

lastly

he
I

is

an Englishman.
till

was near noon, but

had not time to wait

later, so in

the intense heat, and guided by a

young

J'^fe

^%?..^^

SHENINI.

Arab,

clambered up to the old and

now

forsaken

town on the top of the mountain.

The
smaller

walls,

built

of laro-e

slabs

minefled

with

stones,
side,

completely

enclose

the
to

town

on

every
high,

and stand from

it

seven

nine feet
to

rendering

absolutely

inaccessible

an

enemy.

The

interior can only be penetrated

by climbing

DUIRAT
a covered

249

way

which, ascending higher and higher,

leads to a passage so low

and narrow that one must

till,

creep in on

all fours.

Then on

with

many

turn-

ings through bewildering chambers and passages, the

uppermost houses are reached, and thence the

streets,

which are no wider than a man's breadth. 1

Now
roofs

all

lies

in ruins,

and one can climb over

flat

the crumbling walls

and up on to the few

which

still

hold together, but are dangerous

footing.

From
vale
to

the roofs the

could see over mountain and

plain,

and the blue peaks on

the

southern horizon.

Looking
saw%

far

down
the

the precipice at

my

feet,

through

spreading
fires

smoke that
their

floated

upwards

from

the

on

hearths,

the

women

movino- in

the

courts of their dwellinors.

Now

and then the muffled sound of their voices

me.

reached

man's voice shouting,

if

however,
It

sounded almost as

close to

my

ear.

must

have been an echo which was the cause of

hearing
it

my
this

so distinctly.
life

How
little

wearisome
so

must have been

sky.

in

town,

near

the
to

VyTo
water

the

women
from

especially,

who had
it

fetch

daily
hard.

the valley,

must have been very

folk

One

can but admire the

in

who endured
difficulties

existence
of
their

such

a spot.

The very

250

CAVE DWELLERS
of
life

mode

made

their

bodies

supple,

their

minds keen and vigorous.

Sliding

down through
Ijack the

the
cliff.

dark

passages

we

emerged once more on the

By throwing
and
seeking

upper part of

my

body,
I

foothold

with

my
I

legs,

whilst

supported
reaching
buildings.
little

myself by
without

my

arms,

succeeded
tier

in

mishap the uppermost

of

Here stands the mosque,

in

a picturesque

building,

the

courtyard

of

which

is

minaret.
I

began

to

make

a sketch of this.

My

guide

was down on
did
its

me

in a

moment,

two-franc piece

work, and we went within.

arcade.
I

The surrounding; wall formed a low

scanned the view over this down to the slope below

investigated

everything,

and

found a cistern

in

the middle of the courtyard.

Pulling at a cord
that to the

attached to

the cistern,

discovered

end of

it

was fastened a drinking-cup, made of Whilst examining this

1

the horn of a mouflon.

heard a loud yell behind me, and saw an old

man
his

come up out
fist

of a cave, shouting

and shaking

at me.

My

guide went to meet him, evidently

intending to try and pacify him, but the old fellow

persisted in screaming

and threatening.

Again

put

my

hand

in

my

pocket, with as good a result

as before.

DUIRAT
The Khalifa and the Sheikh awaited me
dwelling, and after a
little

251

in tlieir

conversation with them,

througli
I

and a and

stroll

in

their

company

the lanes,

to visit

some of the dwellings,

ordered the

horses to be saddled.

As

set foot in

the stirrup, the Khalifa came

A HALT IX THE DESEIIT

TENT

OF A TRIIJAL CHIEF.

forward with a

mouHon
It

horn,

which

he
I

begged

me
in

to accept.

was the same that

had seen
told

the

mosque.

My
had

guide

had

evidently

tales out of school.

AVhen

we

descended

into

the

valley

turned and looked up.

Near the Khalifa's house

figures.
I

stood some white burnous-clad

waved

252

CAVE DWELLERS

a farewell, and saw a couple of arms Hourisbed in

reply. So,

by the same path, we rode back

on
the

to Tatuin.

The

goats

mountains were now grazing

amono-st the rocks.

My
careless,

horse was fidgety, and

toss

the
his

Hies

worrying
I

him made him constantly

head.

was
ris^ht

and he struck me a blow on the

it

hand, causing
carry
it

to
;

swell,

and compelling me to
I

in

a sling

and thus

had to

ride

for

several days.

After riding hard for

full five hours,

we reached

Tatuin a

little

before

sunset.
his

Lieutenant

Adam

had arrived there with

company, and a great

surprise also awaited me.

CHAPTER XV
The Tuareg
I

DISMOUNTED

at

the

office

of

the

Intelligence

Department.
clad

In the archway a
to

number

of burnousoffice,

men waited
the

be admitted into the

where

interpreter,

M.

Grosset

Grange,

and

Lieutenant Donau were at work.

My
who

eyes roved over the crowd of waiting men,

hailed

from

far
in

and

near.

They were

fine

types, all
I

wrapped
for

white or grey cloaks.

Then
by

started,
!

on the stone bench sat

yes,

Jove

two

stalwart figures, with

black

kerchiefs

wound round about

fine
little

their faces, so that only their

eyes

were

visible,

most of the nose and a

Their
lio-ht

of the forehead being covered.

brown complexions surprised me.

Below
their white
feet,

garments appeared bare legs

if I

and sandalled
wore light
1)1

and,

am

not mistaken, they

tuft
-

ue

trousers.

of black

hair

protruded above the dark head

covering.

They

were evidently Tuareg.

Lieutenant

Donau

came
I
253

out

to

receive

me.

Pointing to the two men,

ejaculated,

"Tuareg?"

254

CAVE DWELLERS
"Yes, certainly," he said
I

witli a smile.

seated myself on a bench opposite to them,

while

Donau

fetched the

interpreter,

so

that be-

TUAltF.G.

tween them they might interrogate

the
I

Tuareg.
sat

At

first

could
face to

not realise
face

that

indeed

peacefully

with the dreaded sons of

THE TUAREG
the
desert,

255
ha,ve

and that

shoidd

the
their

luck

to

take

home

for our National

It

Museum

costume
true.

and equipment.
"

seemed too good to be

I

Do you
?

think

shall

be able to buy their

clothes
" It
plied.

"

asked the interpreter.

be very
difficult

will

to

manage," he

re-

"The Tuareg
that

are suspicious,

and

will

not
their

understand
old

anyone would
fine

sooner
as

buy

rags

than

clothes,

such

you wear.

Besides, similar costumes are not to be had here,

and they

will not like to return

home

in ordinary

iVrab dress."

" Very a
distant

well,

tell

them

am

a stranger from

country,

who has come

here

to

see

whether
as

my

people

may
I

not be of the same origin

should be glad
if
I

theirs.

Tell

them

could

take their costume with

me

to

show

to

my

country-

men.
or, if

will

pay

for

them more than

their value,
I

they will not take money for them,

to
I

will

undertake
Gabes, for

send

them corn by caravan from

that they have been unable to

know

buy any The

here."

interpreter

then began the lengthy

and

tough transaction.
It

then transpired that one of the two, Akhemed-

uld-Bai, spoke Arabic, but not so his compatriot,

Mohammed

ben

Mohammed.

The

conversation

therefore took time.

256

CAVE DWELLERS
First I addressed the interpreter in French, he

then translated what

had said into Arabic

it

for

Akhemed, who again repeated

lan2:uao;e to

in

the Berber

Mohammed.
the reply was returned in the same way.
to the

After the matter had been thoroughly discussed

by the

pair,

They informed us that they belonged

"Foghass"
section

of the

Azgu

tribe of Tuareg.

the name of Akhemed - uld - Bai had But thouo-h o

the

true

Tuareg

ring,

as

much

could hardly

be

said for his companion's patronymic.

Their proper

home was on the

farther side of Rhadames.

I

When
at

they learnt that

was anxious to become

the possessor of their property, both of

them

stared

me

long and fixedly, after which they consulted

while.

together for a
divest

Then Akhemed began

white " Tuat
"

to

himself of his

burnous, for

which we bargained.
asked, his

As

gave him what

he

other garments soon followed, and bit

by

l)it

he stripped himself, until he was actually

a

clothed in nothing but

tunic,

scanty
of

shirt,

or under-

and the black

veil,

which the lower part

concealed his mouth.

Tuareg never exposes

his

mouth
it

before others

so lono- as he can avoid doiniij so;

would be a

breach of propriety.

But

in

the

presence of foreigners they

had

evidently less regard for decorum than they would


THE TUAREG
have hud before their own people.

257

Now
I

and then

Akhemed,

as he talked,

dragged the kerchief away

from the lower part of

his face,

and

saw the handteeth.

is

some well-formed beardless mouth and white

Whether he were shaved

know not

but

it

said

that the Tuareg do not care for beards, and therefore shave.

When

he rose to take

off his clothes, his

all

fine
;

muscular form towered above

truly herculean specimen, he

those present

was some

six feet high,

sparely but splendidly built.

His costume was as follows

shirt-like under-tunic

(akhebail),

above

it

grey patterned tunic with short white sleeves that

came from the Sudan

Trousers,

(taiden).

which
;

were

wide

at

the

top

and

narrow below
(kortebba).

they reached half-way

down

the calf

Sandals

(ghetimn)

of

tooled

leather,

with

crossed latchets that passed between the toes and

fastened round the ankle.

A
head.

long,

narrow black
is

veil,

used to enwrap the

This veil
;

furnished in two places with a

broad flap

one serves to cover the forehead, the

other the lower part of the face.

The crown of the

veil a black

head

is left

bare,

and shows above the

tuft of

hair (tadilmus).
is

Outside the veil a long

rolled turban-wise, but so

piece of white material

17

258

CAVE DWELLERS

arranged that the veil shows both above and beneath

it

(ash shash).

Over
a "haik
"

this dress

is

worn an ordinary

light wrap,

from Tuat (kheiki).

The costume was completed by three square

amulet cases
(tira)

made

of tin,

and apparently

fashioned out of old sardine boxes.

They hung by

leathern strings on the man's breast and outside his

clothes.

Supposing that these cases contained inscriptions

in the Berber language, I

was very anxious to get

all

possession of them.
respect

But

my

endeavours in this
not

were unsuccessful.

Akhemed would
that
to

part with them.

He

declared

him they

were worth more than the value of a camel.

He

had bought them from a Marabout, they protected

him from
possessed
"

dano;er

and misfortune, and since he had

ill

them no
sell

had befallen him.

Then

me

the cord and the cases and keep

your amulet."

For a high price he agreed to

this,

but

could

not get permission to see the contents.

ing he brought and handed over to
case.

Next mornan unsoldered

me

When
this

there was no more to be

I

bouQ-ht

from

man,

turned to his companion.

little

His costume differed

did

from the other, so

not trouble about

it,

but on the wrist of his

THE TUAREG
left hciiid

259

was an embroidered

leatlier ring,

and the

same hand grasped the

hilt of a

dagger

(tilek).

The Tuareg always carry one of these

left sleeve, so

in

the

disposed that the point

lies

is

turned up

the sleeve, whilst the sheath

forearm, and
is

along under the

is

secured by a sewn band which

w^rist.

slipped over the

is

The handle

of the dagger
wire.

cross-shaped and
is

bound with brass

very

The

dagger
handy.
I

therefore,

evidently and literally,

bouo-ht

it

and a
of

laro;e

leather bag; (aoherid),

or
gazelle
hide.

made

apparently

antelope

Throuoii holes on the edo-es of the basf were drawn

leather thongs, which again were

made

fast

with a

very peculiar iron

receptacle

lock.

This

is

the only lockfast

for

owned by the Tuareg,

they rarely

possess even a chest (senduk), as do the Arabs.

Of other weapons they had none, though the

Tuareg generally carry spears, but rarely swords,

bows and arrows,

Next
I

or shields.

bouoht one of their lioht smart saddles

for riding the

dromedary (mehari).

The saddle has

a broad cantle at the back, and that in front, though

narrower,

is

also high
is

and terminates

in a cross.

The
and, as
I

cross

often found in Tuareg ornaments,

illustration in
is

show by an

my

book called
relic of

Algiers and the Sahara,

the

supposed to be a

time when

this

people

were

Christians

and

26o

CAVE DWELLERS
regions whence they

inhabited the more northern

were driven by the Arabs.

All the wearing apparel that
I

purchased was,

according to the vendors' account, manufactured by

Tuareg or brought from the Sudan.

The

price of each article

was named

in piastres,
total, I

and the interpreter having added up the

in
francs,

paid
the
so

without
trust

the
in

Tuareg
the

overlooking

account,
entire.

their

interpreter

being

sig;n

of their confidence in the French.

-

M.

Grosset

Grange told
all

me

that

these

two
just

Tuareg examined
like

that was novel to

them
his

children.
first

That when they entered

room

they at

stood dumfoundered, then touched and

examined everything.

The system by which the

in-

window was
vestigated,

closed

and bolted was carefully

and pleased them much.

The handle of

the bolt chanced to be decorated w4th the representation of a man's head,

" Is that

and the Tuareg naively asked,

"
?

your father

Commandant

Billet

told

me many
life,

amusingare so

anecdotes of these children of nature,

sober and abstemious in their daily

who

and who

can subsist for days in the desert almost without

food.

Once

" Targui
to
"

"

(the

singular

of

Tuareg)

happened to come
"

him

at one of the stations.

Are you hungry

asked the commandant.

THE TUAREG
Yes,
it

261

was long since he

liad tasted food

so an
to
lie

enormous quantity was

have
satisfied six or
all

set before liim,

folk.

enough

seven ordinary

When

had consumed

this

he went to see a captain,

treated.

l)y

whom
no,

he was as generously

One might
satisfied
;

have supposed that he would then be

half an

l)ut

hour later the insatiable son of the

official,

desert called on a third

bitterly of hunger,

and again complained

and

Avas

fed with a couple of

dishes of " kus-kus."

It
is

inconceivable

how any one

it

man

could

swallow so

much

food, but probably

had never

before fallen to his lot to fully satisfy his appetite.

Apparently the Tuareg are at present anxious to

keep on friendly terms with the French.

On

several

occasions small caravans have travelled as far as the

southern stations of Tunisia, most of them certainly

with a view to trade, mats enjin,

it is

always a move

in the right direction, wdiich, prudently encouraged,

may

lead farther.

It

would be

to

the

signal

advantage of the
to

French that the old caravan road

should be reopened, so that
traffic

the Sahara

from Rhadames
other

could proceed direct to Gabes

Tunisia, instead
of,

or

towns of

as

now, via
lies

Tripoli.

The
that

chief

impediment

at

present

in

the

fact

the

caravans, not being permitted to carry slaves, are

not profitable.

The

baskets, leather goods, weapons,


CAVE DWELLERS
which the
ill

262

etc.,

last

caravans brought with them

though

small quantities

were

disposed of with
will

difficulty in

Tatuin and Medinin, which

not

tend to induce them to make another

trial.

No

that

traffic

through the

Sahara
In

may

be

remunerative, slavery. is essential

fact, so

long

A TUAIIEG.

as slavery continues to Hourish in Tripoli, so

will the

long

stream of trade flow that way.

Neither does slavery appear so terrible at close

quarters as
it

does

when read

of in heartrending

romances in the style of Uncle

truth
is,

Toms

Cabin.

The

that slaves are well treated everywhere in

if

the East, so well that even

oiven their freedom,

THE TUAREG
as tliey were

263

by decree

in Tunisia, tliey, as a rule,

remain in their master's house.

The transport
horrors, Ijut

across the desert

is,

indeed,

full

of

when once

arrived at their destination

the slaves do not suffer from want

quite otherwise.
in

Anion ost the caravans that came to Tatuin

1893 was one

the Tuareg

in

charge of two nephews of Aissa,

rules

Sheikh who
^

over the tribe of

" Imauo'hasat."

The
letter

elder of these,

named Uan

Titi,

brought a

to

the

officer

in

command

of the military

station

at Tatuin,

in

which he reclaimed several

camels and a negress robbed from the Tuareg by

the tribe of Uderma.

As

it

was

politic to

show

a friendly disposition,

the camels w^ere forthcoming at once, though they

were probably bought

regard to the negress,
perplexity.

but

it

was otherwise with

a

who was

cause of great

According to law, every slave

foot on territory under

is

free

who

sets

French control, consequently

nothing could be done.

That the Tuareg

to blow^s with the

w^ere

afraid of again

coming

tril)e

of

Uderma,

is

evident from

the fact that the Tuareg Sheikh had written to the

Khalifa of Duirat to
'

1)eo;

him

to take care that the

Correspondence in the Paris newspaper, the Journal des Debats of 5th

September 1893.

264

CAVE DWELLERS
went no farther north than
Tatiiin,

emissaries

and

had

also taken the precaution of ascertaining

whether

absolute peace prevailed in Uderma.

Uan
Sahara.

Titi

spoke of the latest French explorers,

last
first

Foureau and Mry, who travelled

winter in the

He had

conducted the

named, who,

however, had not reached Rhadames.

Mry had

spent some time with the Azgu tribe from

the

whom
united

Imaughasat

had

then separated themselves.

are
fairly
still

They now camp together and

" duars " near " E,hat."

under their Sheikh Aissa, but they

have some

According to
in

Uan

Titi's

account, the highroads

the Sahara pass Fezzan,

Rhadames, and Tuat.

the

That by Rhadams
important.

may

be considered

most

The Tuareg, amongst

at

whom

perfect peace reigns

present,

come

to

Rhadames from the southern

regions to escort the caravans and to supply camels

for hire.
It is rare,

however, for them to go farther than

Tripoli or than Southern Tunisia.

The Turks

in Tripoli refuse, of course, to

;

acknow-

ledge French rule in Tunisia

and

as the people of

Rhadames

are mainly Berbers

all in

under Turkish ad-

ministration, these do

their

power

to destroy

the

little

trade there

is

with the French territories of

Duirat, Tatuin, Medinin, and beyond

them

to Gabes.


THE TUAREG
For the moment the
in
Tiuii-eg place

265

no obstacles from

the

way

of persons

who venture

to travel

the Duirat mountains throu2;h the desert to Rha-

dames; so the route

is

open, but no one

who

is

supposed to have the slightest relations with the

French

is

allowed to enter the

oasis.

Tlie traveller

who desires

to visit this town,

which

in the time of the

Romans had

constant intercourse
;

with the coast, must start from Tripoli

letters of

if

he has
there,

recommendation from the authorities

;

he

is

sure to be admitted
is

the journey on

camel

back

wearisome and even distressing through the

is

heat and lack of water, but of danger there

for the present

none

the

Tuareg not being camped by

the roads in any appreciable numbers.

The French

authorities have done ail they could

to establish peaceful relations with

to

Rhadams and
Officers

explore

the

southern

frontier.

have

reconnoitered the country from the southern mountains to far into the desert.

Commandant

Billet in

person has ridden through the mountains as far as

the Tunisian frontier.

On one

of these expeditions
in the

he visited the ruins of a very ancient village

mountains, known as " Ksar Uni," which
miles south of Tatuin.
lies

eighty

An

interpreter

who spoke Arabic

like a native,

and who was,

further, a

Mohammedan, was

sent to

the desert not long since to endeavour to penetiate

266

CAVE DWELLERS
far as

as

Rhadams.

His mission

failed

entirely.

He was

robbed, imprisoned in Rhadams, and sent

to Tripoli,

from whence,

after

much

difficult negotia-

tion, his release

was obtained.

West
the belt

of the

Matmata mountains and south

is

of

of shotts

a steppe

where are found a

number

of small wells, but south again of this and

as far as

Rhadams

is

an almost waterless desert,

cross.

barren and waste and very dangerous to

few

earlier
it,

travellers

may

possibly

have

passed

through

but in March and February of this year

w\as

the desert

traversed

by two French
I

officers,

under such marvellous conditions that

refrain

cannot

from giving an account of their journey,

I

exactly as

heard

it

related

by Major Gausset

in

Gabes.

Lieutenant
the
6tli

Dumas

of the Spahis (now captain of

Chasseurs at Oran), and Lieutenant Cazeof

majou

the

Engineers,

both

courageous

and

determined men, who feared neither exposure to the

elements nor the sufferings of hunger and
thirst,

determined on trying to make their way secretly

from Nafta, by the shott and through the

desert, to

Rhadams.

Well aware that a request

for permis-

sion to travel during the difficulties in connection

with the frontier would be refused by their superiors,

they only asked

for leave to take a trip to Algiers.

This was granted without suspicion being aroused,

THE TUAREG
and, accompanied
desert, both in
])y

267

a guide, they disappeared in the

Arab dress and mounted on camels.

After a dangerous and fatiguing ride they (h'ew

near to Rhadames, and were already rejoicing over

the happy termination of their journey
;

l)ut

no

sooner had they reached the gates than they were driven
oft'

like dogs, their lives

were menaced, and

they were compelled to retreat.

Their

coming

had

been

announced by some
shortly

Marabout whose kubba they had passed

before arriving at the town.

There was nothing to be done but to return as

quickly as possible, which

they did

l)ut as

they

thought

it

possible

that

they might be pursued

and attacked on

their

homeward way, they took

another route, where water was very scarce, and with

which none of them were acquainted.

After incredi])le exertions and

having suftered
reduced at

much from hunger and

the last to a
little

thirst

they were

chocolate with which to allay the

in reaching

pangs of hunger

they succeeded

home.

Their journey was, of course, to a great extent a

failure,

but they had reconnoitered an

unknown

country and proved themselves to be a couple of

exceptionally energetic, l)rave men.
their

They resumed
their exploit

duty

in silence, but a

rumour of

leaked out and reached the ear of the General.

He
that

demanded

an

explanation,

with

the

result

268

CAVE DWELLERS
received
off.

they

slight

official

reprimand

soon

shaken

Since

Duveyrier

undertook

his

memorable

journey, of which the brilliant results are related in

his book,

Les Touaregs

dtt

Nord, no one probably

life

has dedicated himself so entirely to a desert

Cornitz, a

as

young

Swiss, of

whom
to

the officers in the

south spoke in the highest terms.

This

man, who appears

be

thinker and
for

philosopher of no

mean

order,

came

the

first

time to Southern Tunisia some years ago, in order

to

study the mode of

life

and opinions of the

their
for

Bedouins.
existence
years.

He was
that

so

charmed with

nomad
three

he returned every year

He
in

dressed as they did, and lived amongst equal

conditions,
life,

them

the desert, and, under

shared in the joys and sorrows of their tent

their hunts

and

their boundless horizon.

But the

time came when even this did not satisfy him, so he

purchased palm
settled

trees,

house and a herd,

and

down

in the

town of Duz to the west of the

of the shotts.

Matmata and south

To enable him

to take long journeys to the south,

"

he bought two " mehari

(chameaux coureurs) and

After

practised the difficult art of riding them.

eight days' hard exertion he could ride as well as any

"Targui."

He

then travelled with his

flocks, or alone, in the

THE TUAREG
south as far as Rliadams, but neither was he
to gain admittance to that town.

269

al)le

While on

this

journey he completed the Frencli map.

Each year,
last time, in

after a visit

home, he returned.

The

May

1893, that he travelled

home he

passed through Gabes, where he was struck

down
officers

with fever and was very

ill.

The French

begged him to go into the military

declined
their
ofters

hospital, but he
for

and started
I

the

north.

During

my

stay in the south

was told that he had

written to one of the Khalifas that he would soon

return to visit his herds,

left in

charge of an Arab,

and

to again
" II
est

resume

his life in the desert.

original,

un pen

mais tres intelligent,"

the officers at Gabes said of him. In truth, there are the free
life

many who

are attracted

by

that

is

led under tents,

his

where no one
is

need fear troubling

unlimited.
If

neighbour, since space

one place

is

unpleasing, you

move

to another

^laying your tents on camels and

saddle,

vaulting into the

you drive your

flocks

and herds onwards,

ever onwards, for the horizon has no limit.

Whilst dwelling on the

alluring, mysterious
desert,

men who

rove in the

which has engulfed so

many
south

in its

deadly embrace,

evening at Gabes, when,

I

my thoughts turn to an after my return from the

sat

in

the

guest-room of the "Hotel de

270

CAVE DWELLERS
"

rOasis
ride.

and refreshed myself

after

my

exhausting

The hxndlord, M.

Saissy, a

man
I

of al)Out fifty,

was setting in order the

were mostly
officers,

tables, after the guests,

left.

who

had

was the only one

who remained and

of beer to pass
I

trifled

with a cigar and a glass

before retiring to bed.

away the time

in

was absorbed

thought and long remained so

it

so long, indeed, that

M. Saissy probably concluded

he approached

was time to turn

in, for

began a conversation by way of rousing

me and me from

my
Sir
(

reverie, with, "

Have you had

a pleasant journey.

replied

in

the

affirmative,

and gave him a

sketch of

my
"

travels

and described the Matmata

vain,
I

mountains
expedition.

not

little

confess,
I

of

my

Have you ever been there?"

asked

in conclusion.
''

No,

have not," he replied. "

came here some

I

years ago with the regiment which

sutler,

followed as

and, as the officers could not find a place

I

where they could dine, they proposed that

cater for them.

should

This

my

wife and

agreed to do.

By

degrees

we organised

this hotel, but to

make

it it

pay we have

to be careful,

and we cannot leave

I

since our arrival at

Gabes

have positively only

been twice absent."

Good heavens

thouoht

1,

how

dull

never to

"

THE TUAREG
have a change and look about one a
"
bit
it
;

271

but

I said,

You ought some day

to

go south

woukl

interest

you, for instance, to meet the Tuareg of the west at

Tatuin.
arrived,
I

had the luck

to be there just
I

when two

whose equipments
l)e

bought."
I

"Ah, those may

" Indeed, "

the same that

"
?

once saw."

and when

Ah, yes
then,

it

was a long time ago

was quite

young

and the love of travel drew me away

do not remember how
I
it

from home.

came about,

but eventually

started

with two companions to

those days
it

shoot ostriches in the

Sahara in

was

not so

difficult to

penetrate there.

We

hunted with

the Tuareo^."
"

Did you venture

I

far

" Yes,

do not

exactly

know how

far,

but

certainly to the other side of Tuat.

The natives

were a peaceful people, and we were never at enmity

with them.

Our hunting was

for our employer.

successful,

and we

made money
"

Once

was on the point of going there again

with Dr. Nachtigall, but something intervened, and

to

my

bitter regret I could not leave

liad a

for I

have

always

longing for that sort of

life.

It

was
wife

very different from slaving as we do now,

my

and

for it
!

is

not easy to please everyone

no,
see, I

indeed

But

to return to those days.

You

have been acquainted with many of the well-known


CAVE DWELLERS
Most of them
])eliave

272

travellers.

badly for

tliey

do not respect the natives. which

is

Some

rely on force

a mistake

it is

always best to be unarmed.

If ever I should venture there again, I

stick in

would take a

my

hand and naught

else.

" Miss Tinne I to o;ood advice

knew

well.

She would not

listen
!

and was murdered.

Good heavens

she needed only to ask the chief of the Tuareg for a

safe

conduct and

all
till

would have been

well,

but she

would not wait

the matter could be arranged,

believing that she could safely penetrate farther with

the protection she had.

"
one's

No believe
way

me

it

is

eas}'

enough to push

forward, but one must avoid ofieuding the

natives.
"

There was another traveller who deserved to

slain also

have been
cattle

but escaped.
I

He

simply stole

when he

required them."

We

conversed long, and

gathered

much
as

in-

formation with
recollections

many

interesting

details,

old

were recounted by him as they came

back to his mind.

Saissy's wife joined us,

and we

sat together

and
then

discussed a glass of wine.

to

Saissy promised

me

note

down

his

recollections,
I

which are to be

forwarded to me, and

hope to be able to publish

myself to what

them
1

later

for the present I confine

have already mentioned.

THE TUAREG
On my
referring to the great desire I

273
to visit

Rhadams some

future year
"
I

" Take me with

in earnest;

liatl

you,"

hurst from M. Saissy.

sufficient to enahle

am

pay me only

my

wife to hve in comfort in

my

ahsence, and

will

accompany you.

You may he

assured that
"

should he of use to you."

?

From
Nous

Tripoli

"

asked.

" "

Of course from
verrons,

Tripoli."

M. Saissy."

And

so

we went
came

to hed.

to

When me and
"

I left,

a couple of days later, Saissy

gave
will

You

me his portrait, saying let me know when you have come

to

a decision."

18

CHAPTER XVI
Back to Tunis
In the course of the night a telegram arrived, orderino-

Dr.

Cultin

to

return

with

me

next day to

Medinin, as his colleague had been suddenly seized

with fever and was very

ill.

We were

little late in starting,

and the sun was

scorching hot.

Followed by our two Spahis and a

led horse, which bore

my purchases
el

from the Tuareg,

we hurried homewards.
After a halt near Bir
fasted,

Ahmer, where we break-

and where a fresh horse awaited me, our prorapid.

it

gress

was

But
Medinin.

was

after

nightfall

when we reached
the lieutenant

Outside the camp

we met

of the Spahis,

who

said that the doctor

was worse,

and was about to be sent

Dr. Cultin hurried
I

in a carriage to Gabes.

away

to his sick comrade,

and

dismounted at the quarters of the commandant,

galloping in to receive me, and invited

who came

me

to a splendid dinner with

I

some of the
I

officers.

need scarcely mention that

274

expressed

my

thanks in the warmest terms for the brilliant recep-

BACK TO TUNIS
tion
I

275
trip to

had received, and

for

my

memorable

the southernmost military stations.

I

was offered a horse

for

an expedition to Zarsis
to decline with

and the island of Jerba, but had

many

thanks, as iny time was limited.

After a comfortable breakfast with the infantry

othcers, I

bade

my

friends farewell before the com-

mandant's house, and, waving

salute, rode off to Gabes.

my

hat

in

a final

Commandant
far as

Billet

accompanied

me

nearly as

Metamer, where we parted.

" Should
Tripoli

you ever go

to

Ehadames by way of
route,

and return by and

this

you would be

heartily welcome,

this

would certainly be your

best
I

way home,"

said the

commandant.

replied that

should the journey ever be atattrachis

tempted by me, Medinin would have a great

tion for me,

and thanked him heartily

for all

kindness.

Then

rode with

my

Spahi towards the camp at

Metamer, where the lieutenant on guard came out

and invited

me

in.
I

After a short halt,

direction along the
signal station,

continued in a north-westerly
of the

foot

mountain of the
country north
;

and thence by a

hilly

the

Matmata mountains lying

to the west of us,

and

the plain to the east.

On

both the plain and the

hills

saw ruined

276

CAVE DWELLERS
remains.

Roman
soldiers
well,

We also

passed a spot where a few

were encamped
as

for the
hill

purpose of digging a

and

we ascended a
us.

saw a vehicle come

it

swinging towards

Before

rode a red Spahi,

behind

it

another.

The

carriage

was a heavy box

it
;

on four wheels, and had an awning over

it

was
as
It

drawn by four mules, and two

postillions.

soldiers

acted
face.

From

within peeped a woman's

was a captain's wife who had taken advantage of

the opportunity of going via Medinin to visit her

husband at Zarsis

the

carriage being on its

way

to fetch the sick doctor.

It

was nearly sunset, and

urged on

my

horse to

avoid arriving late at the

little

caravansarai where

we were
Soon

to
it

spend the night.

became

so dark that the horses stumbled

on the rough road, and we had to slacken to a

walk.
other's
horses.

For a

lono-

time we saw nothino; but each

dim

figures

and heard only the tramp of our

At
and

last,

at

the village of Aram, lights

as

shone
its

dogs

barked

we

passed

amongst

palms.

After riding in
longer,

the

still

night about an hour

lights.

we again heard dogs barking and saw

We

were then near the oasis of Marath, where,

w^e

having ridden fully twenty miles,

were to rest

some hours and

start again at sunrise for Gabes.

BACK TO TUNIS
111

277

the caravansarai

wliicli resenil^lcd

that of Bir

el

Alimer

Spalii

from (labs awaited

me with

fresh horse.

The

liohts in the house streamed

from the rooms

soldiers,

into the courtyard.

Within were some

who
and
;

had bivouacked round about a candle placed on the

floor.

They came

out,

received

our

horses

conducted
raised on

me

to an officer's room.

Four bare walls

masonry was a sloping plank-bed which

;

extended alono; the inner wall

besides this there

was a table and a bench.

native,

who was

in charge of the place, I sent

to the oasis to

buy me some

candles.

The

soldiers

eagerly offered to lend me,

till

his return, their little

taper stuck in a bottle.

The Spahis then

first

laid the table,

and

dined, after

dividing with
I

them and the

soldiers the eataljles

for

with which

had been so sumptuously provided,

I

no one knows better than

do how a small extra

I

ration tends to put a soldier into good-humour.

have not forgotten the old days

i

in

South Oi-an when

was myself a mere private.

The 8pahis and the

line at the table,

four soldiers

drew up

in

and

began the distribution

bread
to

and dates
soldiers,

to

the
1

Mohammedans, and wine

poured into the
tin

the

which

mugs they

held out to me, and to

whom

gave also bread and

meat.

278

CAVE DWELLERS
" Right about face,

marcli

"

gave the order

through

involuntarily,

and the troop

at once vanished

the door.

Soon the sound of gay voices singing reached

ear from the adjoining room.

my

When
and took

had finished

my

repast I

lit

a cigarette

a turn

through the courtyard to have a look

still

at the horses,

which

stood saddled and had not

yet been either fed or watered, they were so over-

heated from their journey.

Having given orders that they were

saddled, fed, and watered,
I

to be un-

returned, and, lying on

the bed, listened to the

I

sino;ino;.

had rested but a short while when a smart

liis

soldier entered, and, with

if

hand

to his cap, asked

he and his comrades mi^ht enliven the eveninome, as

I

for

if so,

they would come

;

in.

agreed willingly
sat

so they

came

in,

each carrying

his

mug, and
After
I

on the ground facing me.

had questioned them, asking each where

he hailed from, and had talked with them about a

soldier's life in the desert

life

I
;

also

knew some-

thing of

asked them to sing

then the usual

still

barrack Ijallads with comic choruses woke the

night.

Afterwards
refilled their

chatted again

little

with
wish-

them,
ing

mugs which they emptied,

me
I

happy journey, and then withdrew.

in

wrapped myself

my

burnous and

slept,

but

BACK TO TUNIS
was disturbed,
first

279
horses,

by the stamping of the

carts being

and

later

by the noise of some

yoked

in

the yard.

Before

it

was lioht next mornina;

soldiers

was broad

awake.

The

made and brought me some

relish,

coffee that I

drank with

and

it

was just dayI

break when, wrapped in

saddle,
register.

my

burnous,

got into
in

my
the

after

having

inscribed

my name

The

soldiers stood at attention

and saluted
for the

as I

bade them farewell and thanked them

songs they sang for me, while they, in return, wished

me

happy journey.

Our road was towards the north through the

palm groves of the lowland, where we now and again
crossed the dry beds of torrents that l)egan in
tlie

mountains.
After a couple of hours
oasis,

we

traversed the Ketena

side.

leaving other palm groves on one

Here the
far

level of the country rose a little,

and

away on the northern horizon we could

forests that lie south of Gabes,

see the

palm

and now and

again caught a glimpse in the east of the sunlit

surface of the Mediterranean.

Presently the

temperature became very su^ry,

and a hot wind

eyes.

rose,

which whirled the sand

in our

This was the sirocco.

When we

reached the high ground, where stands

the Marabout's

tomb

of " 8id Ilamed ben-Habib,"

28o

CAVE DWELLERS
liad

and

passed

its

palms,

we

saw,

through dust

clouds and Hying sand, Gabes, looking like a white

riband in the distance, wdiile behind us the palms of

the oasis
west.

waved

in a long

unbroken

line

from east to

Soon
Gabes.

after,

we

arrived, both tired

and

thirsty, at

In the afternoon,
cases all

when

was busy packing into

I

the weapons, ornaments, and costumes

in

had collected
announced.

the country,

Arab

visitors

were

This was no less than the Khalifa of El

" the mild, friendly" Khalifa, accompanied

Hamma,
by three

of the

Matmata mountain
was
in the

sheikhs.

They had heard

to 2;reet me. as a token

that

town and wished

Their visit pleased

me much,
all

of a

friendly feeling on the part of the natives.

I

^
my

found seats for them

to the best of

ability

the Khalifa on the

;

bed, one of the sheikhs

floor,

on a low chest, another on the

a chair served.

and a third on

and then Moorish

coffee

and cigarettes were

The conversation turned on

and
I

my

late experiences,

thanked them

for their hospitality

and received

the reply
"

You

will

always be welcome amongst us."

am now going home," I said, " l)ut perhaps some day I may return, and then, my friends, I
" I

"

"

BACK TO TUNIS
will .seek you,

281

and we may shoot wild boar

El

in

the
so,

mountains towards
Khalifa
"
?

Hamma.

Is

it

not

As you

will, Sidi.

We

have horses and men,

he replied

and nothing you need

shall be wanting,"

with charming courtesy.

When
Captain
office

later in the

day

paid a farewell visit to

1

Simon

at the
full

Bureau Arabe,

found the

crammed

of Arabs,

who had been sumcaught

moned from the mountains.

As
I

pushed

my way
all

through them
I

sight of first one, then other faces that

recognised.

In short, nearly

these brown-skinned chiefs wdtli

dark eyes and black beards were known to me, and

each and
"
all

stretched out their hands in greeting.

this
?

How

is

"

said
?

the

captain.

"

Do you
" they

know

the whole of them

" Yes, indeed," I answered

are

with pride

my
On

friends from the mountains."

the

2nd November

left

for

the

north

by the steamer Isac Perere.

helped

My
cases,

good

Hamed
and
the
figure

me

faithfully

with

my

packing

embarkation of

my
I

numerous

and

liis

w^as the last that

liead.

could distinguish on

the pier-

The Isac Perere crept slowly

Tunis in
four
days.
Life on

north,

and reached

Ijoard
officers

was pleasant
with
us, but,

enough, for there w'ere several

282

CAVE DWELLERS
I

being so long accustomed to ride daily,

exercise.

missed

my

We
call

lay before Sfax for one day.

The cavalry
in a boat to

officers of

the garrison there

came out
us,

on Colonel Gousset and on

with

dined on board,
comrades,
or

and amused themselves

fished for small fry

their

from the deck or the accommoda-

tion ladder of the ship.

To

visit these ships

twice a

week
faces

is

their chief distraction.

The

sight of fresh

and the chance of hearing some news give a

little zest to their dull lives.

At Monastir the same happened, but here the

callers
visit

were

officers

of

the

Tirailleurs,

and their

was evidently intended

for a

newly promoted

captain of their battalion, lately detailed for service

at Gabes,

whence he was now on

his

way

to Tunis

to

meet
It so

his wife.

happened that
in

he, as a

young

lieutenant,

had

served

South

Oran

throuo;h

the

same
as

campaign,
myself, so

but not in the

same detachment,

we had many amusing

recollections in

common, and were soon good

friends.

At Susa he
comrades, but
I

invited

me

to

land and visit his

was prevented doing so by the

quarantine imposed on account of the cholera then

prevalent.

Generally

these

quarantine
officials

regulations

were

utterly senseless.

The

and the functionaries

BACK TO TUNIS
connected
witli

283

shipping

who came on board were

allowed to do so without being disinfected, whereas

the passengers from the ship

who wished

to land

had to undergo that process.

lieutenant of the Tirailleurs,

who had come

from Kairw^an and was on his way to Tunis, came

on board.

He

told

me

of the frightful heat in the

country during the past summer.

Yet he absolutely

preferred residing in the interior rather than on the

coast, the

heat not being so distressing there and

the air purer and fresher, whereas the

the coast was almost unbearable.

damp

heat of

At Kairwan the temperature might

rise as

high

as 120'' Fahrenheit, but one could rub along pretty

tolerably,

though
is,

it

was

difficult to sleep at night.

Want

of sleep

without doul)t, the worst

effect of

this climate, as it

weakens and destroys the nervous

system.
I

had informed the Danish Consul at Goletta,

by

letter,
it

when

should arrive, as he was of opinion

for

that

would be right

me

to call on the

French

JNlinister

Resident, Rouvier,
;

who had

just returned

from France

and

also on the Bey, to

thank them

for the brilliant receptions

and the support afforded

me

in consequence of their orders to the authorities

to assist me.

At Susa

received

telegram to the

effect

that the Minister Resident would receive

me

next

284

CAVE DWELLERS
at

morning
conduct

nine

o'clock,

and

would

afterwards

me

to the Bey. arrive in time at Tunis? " I asked the

for the best.

" Shall
captain.

we

He hoped

Steaming along the beautiful mountainous coast

in the early
left lay

morning hours was enchanting.

To our

the mountains near Hamman-lif; before us

;

were the white walls of Goletta

and

to the right
;

the cathedral on the ruins of Carthage the vilhis

Marsa, and
Goletta,

on the sea-coast.

Beyond

we

could see, across the shining surface of the lake, the

white houses of Tunis and, behind them, the blue

mountains.

At

eight o'clock

we passed through the

to Tunis, but
it

canal

and steamed up the lake

was slow up the

takes

w^ork, for care has to be taken not to stir

water;

so wT)rking
it

ship in

this

harl)Our
to

time

w^as

therefore

twenty minutes

nine

before

landed, after having taken leave of Colonel

ofticers.

Gousset and the other

A
I

carriage took

me

full

speed to the hotel, where

hurriedly

found

my

luggage and

changed

my
the

clothes.
1

kept

my

appointment

punctually

to

moment.

CHAPTER XVII
Tunis

Monsieur Rouvier^ may be described

impeachable gentleman
statesmanship
just returned
I will

as
;

an unof
his

attired

in

black

offer

no opinion.

He had

only

from Paris, and the Press had not

Evidently he had not

received

him favourably.
all

achieved

that had been expected of him, and was

attacked accordingly, but whether with or without

grounds
those

know

not.

In any case,
that he,
to
all,

it

is

said

by

who know him,

in

who had formerly

shown himself friendly

haughty and distant
discovered
friend.

now began

to

l)e

manner.
man's

He had
is

perhaps
one's

that

every

friend

no

After having paid

my

respects to M. Rouvier,

had, according to previous arrangement, to call on

His Highness the Bey.

could not present

Our Consul was

ill,

and

me

therefore drove alone to the

palace near the Kasba, outside which was a crowd of

carriaoes

and

waitino-

Mussulmans.

The General of Division, Valenci, the Bey's

^

M. Rouvier

is

newly appointed

to

Stockholm as French Representative.

2S6

286

CAVE DWELLERS
received me, and with an insinuating

interpreter,

and
his,

affable smile clasped

my

right

hand
it

in

both of

assuring

me
is

of the great pleasure

gave him to

see me.

Valenci
tailor
;

by

birth

Jew,

and was once a

he became a :^ivourite at the Court

how,
until

know not

and

was gradually promoted

he
in

was made a general, though he has never been

command

of a soldier,

much

less of a division.

As a matter them

of fact, the French soldiers regard

;

the Bey's officers with contempt

salute

they do not even

personally

unless they happen to be

acquainted with them.

consists only of a

The Bey's

entire

army now

bodyguard of some two hundred

men, who are paid by the French, and with

the old

whom

man

is

delighted, as they are well drilled

and equipped and regularly paid, so that they no

lono;er

need to knit stockin2:s when on guard, as

in

old days.

Seldom have

seen
;

breast

olitter

with

so

many

orders as Valenci's
front,

his brilliant

uniform was

in

at

least literally covered with large

crosses,

bestowed on him by the

emissaries

many European

Powers, whose

have been received by

"

him

as the Bey's chief interpreter when presented

In the case of the " Legion d'honneur
is

to the Bey.

alone, he has to be content with a low rank, as of

that he

only an

officer.


TUNIS
It

287

must be admitted that

tact

prai,se

is

due to him

for his great

and extraordinary

discretion, on

account of which he has been allowed to remain in

his present position since the

French occupation.

But now the great man appeared on the scene

Rouvier, the real Regent of Tunis, the same time
Affairs
is

who

at one

and

Premier and Minister

Bey,

for Foreig;n

to

the

and

also

Representative

of

France

that

France which has made of the Bey,

the kind, amiable

Bey

shadow

king.

For him the drums beat and the guard presented

arms.

The sound must,

think,

strike

with

jarring note on the Bey's ear.

Whilst M.

Rouvier

stood beside

the

Bey,

entered and thanked him for the great assistance

His Highness's subjects had afforded me.

especially the

named

Khalifas

of Gabes and Hadeij, and

gave a cursory account of

my journey

in the south.

General Valenci translated sentence by sentence.

The Bey

replied,

put questions, and expressed his

pleasure at

my

having been so well pleased.

He
who

shook

me warmly by
now

the hand, the poor old shadow

prince with the white beard and kindly eyes,

is

led out

like a

chained animal on his recep-

tion days.
Officially

speaking,

the

Bey
but,

reigns
in

over his

subjects without

interference,

f\ict,

he

is

bound

to

be guided by his Minister's

will.

288

CAVE DWELLERS
Tlic

Commander-in-Chief
is

in Tunisia, a Brigadier-

General,

at the
all

same time the Bey's Minister

the
political

for
l)y

War

thus

posts

are

filled

Frenchmen.
provinces,

The Bey has

under

Civil

Governors in

his

whom

are

Khalifas,

and under

them again Sheikhs.

one of the
first

General Allegro at Gabes was

of these.
in

These Governors exercise

Bey's name, but they
are

supreme power
watched by the

the

" controleurs civil"

and the

Intelli-

gence Department, so that in reality the administration

is

manao-ed in

accordance with

the

will

of

the

French,

and

the

Governors

are

freed

from

responsiljility in the

conduct of

afi'airs.

But now peace and quiet reign over nearly the

whole country
;

the plundering and fighting which

formerly laid the land waste has ceased, arms are

put

aside,

and trade

flourishes,

roads have
arrive.

been

improved and extended, and colonists

Before
the

French

occupation,

the

tribes

in

Tunisia were divided into two parties ("Sof"), of

which the adherents changed according to circumstances.

One

of

these

parties

termed

itself

the

Bey's,

but only with the intent of being able to

plunder and rob the other with impunity.

At the head
dependent

of

what were known

as

the inin

tribes were, as a rule, the

Beni Zid,

the neighbourhood of the oasis of El

Hamma, who

pretend to be the descendants of a French renegade.

TUNIS
The French
well received
traveller
Pellissier,

289

in

his

time,

was

by them on that

score,

and they called

him

cousin.

Some
was

years ago the Beni Zid seized

the Kasha at Sfax by a coup de main.

Again
offered

it

these

independent
to

triljcs

who

armed

resistance

the

French,

though

certainly not always in great force or with

success.

much

After

the

conquest

of

the
thirty

country, some

thousand
emiorated
frontier

of

them
the

across

into

Tripoli,

whence they have now^

mostly returned.

We
that

have
on

seen
of

the

tribe

Urghamma,
Tripolitan

the

frontier,
moorish avomen ix a stueet in
tuni.s.

adhered ostensibly to
the

Bey, but only that under cover of his name

they might commit the worst excesses.

After taking leave of the Bey
hotel.
I

returned to
letters,

my
an

First a

glanced

through

my
I

and,

after

bath

and

having dressed,
at which
I

enjoyed

excellent Ijrcakfast,

met M. Gauckler,
various purchases,

who promised
19

to help

me make

which promise he

faithfully kept.

On

the whole,

290

CAVE DWELLERS
all

cannot sufficiently thank liim for

his valuable

assistance.

As
I

it

turned

out that

many

of

the

photographs

had taken were

failures,

he handed

me

a collection of views of the whole of Tunisia,

for the " Service des Antiquits,"

photographed

and

which had
in

in great part

been exhibited in Madrid

1892, and presented

that
I

me

with

all

those that

I I

selected,

might make any use of them

to
his

pleased.

Thanks

generosity,

am

able to

adorn

my

book with many of

these

interesting

pictures.

He

also

undertook the troublesome task

of bargaining on

my
to

account with the Jews and

all
I

Moors who were

During

pack

had bought.

my

absence

he had been engaged in

brouo;lit

makino; excavations, and had

fine

back some

mosaics for the

museum

at Bardo.

Under

his

direction the latter will

be enlarged, and will in

time contain some priceless treasures.

law now

prohibits the exportation of antiquities of any kind

to

foreign

countries.

Still,

under certain circumas, for instance,

stances, exceptions are

made,

with
I

regard to some objects found at Carthage, which

had acquired, and which, during

my

absence in the
;

south, were stopped at the custom-house

but, on

our Consul applying to M. Gauckler, he had them passed for me.

The remainder of the day

of the Sok, and
in

spent in the shops

paying

visits,

amongst others

TUNIS
to

291

Drummond Hay, who had

1

long

expected

my
also

return.

foLuul

him

ill

his beautiful ifoveniment

house, near the " Porte de

called

France," where
invited

on

his

wife.
i

They
the

me

to spend a
I

day with them

country, where

had an
for

opportunity of thanking

Drummond Hay

his

valuable assistance and advice, without which

my
and

journey would have been made with no fixed purpose,

and,

notwithstanding

all

the

kindness
it

hospitality so generously

shown me,

might have

had a

ftir

less interesting result.

SUPPLEMENT
The Tribes
of Tunisia
point

A
of

Synopsis
actual
entire

From

geographical

view the

Regency of Tunisia does not comprise an

country
;

in

features

it

does

not

differ

from the

rest of Barbary, since

its

mountains form part of

the same system as those of Algeria and Morocco.

Its chief rivers

have their sources

in Algeria, and,

as in the above-mentioned countries, mountains, high

tablelands,

and the

l:)elts

of the Sahara succeed each

its

other from the north to the south, each with

special aspect, climate, fauna,

and

flora.

But Tunisia
its

is

better situated than Algeria, for

coast trends towards

the south, thus bringing

sea.

every part of the country near the

a
fact

For

it

is

that

the

palm groves of the

ujd

oases

about

Gabes extend right

there,

to the Mediterranean,

and

though virtually
yet
feel

in the heart of the Sahara,

one
sea.

may

the

mild

influence

of

the

\^ The whole of Barbary

is

in a geological
in

sense
reality

sundered from the rest of Africa, being

a continuation

of Southern Europe,
292

of which the

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA

mountain formation
is

293

found again here.

The

climate,
lit-

therefore, resembles that of the Mediterranean

toral.
Ijc

In the interior of Tunisia, indeed,

it

may
only

extremely hot, but the average heat over the

is

whole country

about

76.

The winter

lasts

during the two months of January and February,

but the summer from

Barbary, from Cape

]\Iay to

October.

Bon

to

Cape Nun,
races,

is

everydiffer

where peopled by a mixture of

who

from each other

In
the

in origin, customs,

and

character.

fruitful

valleys

of the

northern

coast

dwells an agricultural race, whilst the high lands

are
finds
chiefly

peopled

hy nomads
in

and one again

the agriculturist
in

the

southern mountains
different races

and

the oases.
in

All these

have
their

settled

those

spots

where,

according to

circumstances

and their temperaments, they were

most

likely to find the

means of

existence.

Pllie Berbers were the aborigines, and, although

they comprise more than two-thirds of the present

numlier of inhabitants, these peaceful agriculturists

who have always

and slow
at

l)een

heavy

in their

movements
to

asseml)ling

invarial)ly
left

succumbed

the warlike Arabs from the high-lying plains.

The Arabs, when they

the east towards the west.

Arabia,

moved from

A
in

great

number

of negroes are also to be found

principally

Tunisia,

brought

from

the

Sudan

294
J

CAVE DWELLERS
They
are everywhere closely intermingled

as slaves.

with the native population.

Lastly, in the towns are found

Jews and Moors.

The

latter

are generally typical of a

mixed race
is

althougli

the type in the different towns

comin

posed of
general
life,

many

races

intermingled,
j

it

assumes

common

resemblance,

Their

mode

of

habits,

hygiene, and
race."^

surroundings have pro-

duced a hybrid
of Moors,

In Tunis there are numbers

and

also in^everal other

Berber towns.
of

In accordance

with

the

results

the latest

researches, I will endeavour to give a short descriptive

sketch

of the

different

peoples

who

at

the

present time inhabit the Regency of Tunisia.

The Berbers.
population

The

indigenous

comprised in

the

faces of Tunisia,

and known generally

as Berbers,

may

be computed at about one million.

They

are

a hybrid people, the descendants of the " LibyansT

of Herodotus and Scylax, of the Mauri or Maurusii, of the Gtulians, of the

Romans, and of the Numihave nothing

in

dians/7 All these

races

common
this,

with the Phoenicians.

Herodotus already knew

and remarks that whereas the Libyans and Ethiopians were the original inhabitants of North Africa,
the Phoenicians and Greeks were immiojrants.
It

was long before any

distinction

was made

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA

between the various
racial

295

groups of Berbers

it

was only observed that there were amongst them

both
lair

aud dark types.

It

was not

until

men

such as the archoh^Liist Tissot and the well-known

Duveyrier had broken the ground, and

in later years

the famous anthropologists, Doctors Collignon and Bertholon, had succeeded in throwing light on the
native languages, that a
to

way was opened which

led

a correct solution

of the origin of the Berber

peoples,
I

and their division into groups,

of Bertholon in Tunis
;

made the acquaintance

at

he

is

present

President
" Institut

of

the

Geographical

Society there, the

de Carthage."

From
his

my
tion

conversations with him, and from the informaI

acquired

from
I

his

works and those of

predecessors, I think
cipal

am

able to indicate the prinare

groups.^

Within

these

again

included

lesser groups, not,

however, needing special mention

here.
1.

The Berbers of the oases

(of the

Neanderthal

type).

These are the Gtuli of the ancients, who at

the

present

day
;

live
is

where they were found

in

in

olden

times

that

the

southern

oases

the
dc la

home

of the date-palm.
l)e

This race, so far as can

^

ascertained, has always

Musulmans ; Les formes
;

A7ithropolof/ic C'rimincUc clcs Tunisicns

les

famille chez

premiers hahitants

cle

I'Afrique dii N'ord

Exploration

anOiropoloffiquc dc la Kliroumirie.

296

CAVE DWELLERS
El Jerid, to
tlie

inlial)ited

west of Gabes, for Sallust

mentions

this people as dwelling there,

and regarded

them

as the oldest inhabitants of this country.

LThey

are a peaceful

and somewhat indolent and tend

their

race,

who

cultivate

their gardens

palm

trees^l

r~From olden times they have been maltreated by

the surrounding warlike
against

nomads and mountaineers,

whom

they were incapable of defending

Indeed,

themselves.

they

have

frequently

been
})ro-

compelled to pay their tormentors largely to

tect

them from other predatory

tribesj

C^They
their

have, therefore, always been in a wretched

dependent position, which has tended to develop

indolence, and

has

been the source of the

deterioration of their moraTsTj

For instance, since olden days, they have

a

liad

regular

marriage law,
for

but this institution has

little

meaning

them,

women

being held in great

contempt, and the

men

not even doing them the

This
state

honour of being jealous of them.

affairs

of

can be accounted for by the tendency of the

illicit

men

to form

connections.

Formerly, deceived
in the oasis of Gofsa
;

husbands were openly ridiculed

and never took serious offence tomary

in fact,

it

was cus-

to select as kaid one of those

in
this

who had been

The nominee

most compromised

respect.

had to undergo a strange ordeal on

his election.

He

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA

had to
facing

297

ride through the oasis on a donkey, seated

tlie
tail,

and wearing a grotesque head-dress.

|)ai'a(h'd

Thus

lie

was

to

the great

amusement

of

the inhabitants, and, perhaps, to his

own

satisfaction.
in Tunisia

These kind of husbands are known

and Algeria
not only he

alike as " Tahan," the

word signifying

who

is

betrayed, but further, he

who

is

betrayed for the sake of gain.

2.

The dark Berbers (Dolichocephalous,

like

or long-

headed type), of short stature,

the Iberians,

the natives of the Mediterranean littoral, the Cro-

Magnon, and the Sordi

types.
this

The Tunisian Berbers of

group closely

re-

semble the natives of the Pyrenees and of Languedoc,

Sea.

and of the great islands

Their chief characteristic
fray.

in the
is

Mediterranean

tendency toward

murder, feud, and

In the three "arrondissements" of Ain

(in the

Drahm
all

Khrumir mountains), Bizerta and Kef,

where
this

in

north-west Tunisia,
less

type prevails,

no

than

forty-one
last

murders

and

assaults

were

committed

year alone, whereas in the whole

of the rest of Tunisia there were only twenty-nine.

This

computation includes only the crimes comThis propensity to shed blood

mitted by natives.
exists also

amongst the kindred race north of the

Mediterranean.
It is startling to observe that this

temperament

298

CAVE DWELLERS
brown doliehocephalous peoples

prevails wherever the

are found.

^v^Other characteristics which they have

are
their

in

common
to

warlike

disposition,

their

devotion

agriculture,

and

their

pronounced clannishnessTj
to Tunisia,

For example, when the French came

the

Khrumirs,

the

most

typical

of

the
into

tribes

belonging to this group, were formed

leagues,

three

composed of

fifteen tribes, wdiich w^ere again

subdivided into forty-three divisions, although the

whole population numbered only

seventy-one persons, of
four

five

thousand and

whom

only one thousand

hundred and seventy

w^ere

men

capable

of

bearing arms.
three

In other words, there were only fortyin each division.

in

armed men
tribe

The

Nefza

the

same

province

had

innumerable chiefs of

clans.

{^A

peculiarity of the people on either coast of the

is

Mediterranean

their strong inclination to fetichism,

religion"]

whatever

may

be the form of their

are

The Khrumirs
Their relioion
is

Mussulmans only
to

in

name.
fast

confined

observino;
all

the

(Ramadan), and to a holy horror of

unbelievers.

They never
ritual.

pray, and are unacquainted with any

They own some Marabout tombs, enshrining

saints to

whom
of these

peculiar influence

is

attri])uted,

and

who

are ^vorshipped like positive idols.

is

One

adored because he takes care that

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA

parents

299

who

ill-treat their children shall

he punished

thronsih his intervention.

Some punish

jx-rj urers.

Sid Ahdalhdi-lien-fJeniet, the lamed JMaiahoiit, at

whose tomb the Khrumirs assembled

French when these arrived
others,
in

to oppose the
is,

1881,
of

like

many
One

celebrated

for

the

cure
is

fevers.

protects the crops, another

fountains.

the special patron of

In short,

all

these Marabouts are wor-

shipped as lesser gods.

Beneath Islamism, idolatry

;

nourishes as in olden days

chanofed their names.

the gods have merely

Amongst
slack,

the

Khrumirs,

family

ties

are

very

woman

being regarded as a mere beast of can

burden.

Marriage
In

be

dissolved

with

the

greatest facility.

many

tribes a

man

can take

to himself a wife without the intervention of

any

sort

of authority.

When

the

price

agreed on

generally a pair of oxen

is

paid, the

man

takes his

bride home, and then invites the elders of his tribe

to a banquet.

Among
his

the

Ushetta
is

peculiar

custom holds.

After their feast

friends

concluded, the brideoToom and

all

plunder

the tents of the

"duar"
they

for edibles for

another meal

continuing

until

can find nothing more to devour.

The woman

is

usually bought without her conit

sent being asked, and

often occurs that, just after

300

CAVE DWELLERS

a daughter's marriage, the father will request the

bridegroom to return the bride, as in the meantime

another

man
is

has offered

for

her a

higher price.
as,

Thus he sometimes gets

a

doul)le

payment,

when

couple
is

compelled

to

separate, the

purchase

money
[

not returned.
is

Xhe

intellectual condition of this people

of the

narrowest.

Scarcely a hundred can be found

who
has
last

can read,

and few can count up to a hundred.

of

Neither have they any knowledge

occurred in their
century.

what

own country even within the

;

Their industrial arts are primitive

is

even

pottery-making

unknown7|
are extremely quarrelsome,

The Khrumirs
are always fighting

and

among

themselves.

No market
is

or feast can pass without blood being shed.

The
common.
the

abduction

of

women

Ijy

armed men

The comparatively unattached existence

facilitates
illcfflxl

of

women

connections.

great

number

of these

nomads have,

therefore, as mistresses

married women, either in their own " duar," or in

the neio'hbourhood.

Khrumir

will rove at times

both

far

and wide,
to

and even

in winter will brave

snow and bad weather

reacli his beloved.

Formerly death was the punish-

ment

inflicted
;

on a

woman whose

oujlt

was

dis-

covered

since the French occupation they do not

kill her,

venture to

but she

is

severely chastised, or

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA

sometimes handed over to her hjver, who
to
is

301

forced

pay

to the betrayed
KStill

husband the sum

for

which

he bought her.

women

continue now, as for-

merly, to be the primary cause of

many

a murder.

For "to die

in

your bed" the Ushetta say "to

die like a donkey."

The vendetta with

all

its

consequences prevails

to a greater extent than in Corsica.

In

some

tribes

it

was

the

custom when a
his

mountaineer had been murdered, and after

death

had

Ijeen

sufficiently

howled over, to slaughter a

friends were invited,

sheep.

Kinsmen and

and

all

those

who partook

of the

meat united

in

an oath to
but

avenge the death.

Blood money

(dia) existed,

was seldom accepted.

When
were
fellowship.

it

suited them,

all

individual differences

laid aside that

they might unite to plunder in

Anyone venturing amongst the Nefza

was immediately despoiled.
1878,

tribe in old days

So

lately

as

when
all

the

Auvergne was
were comIn

wrecked near Tabarka,

pletely
stripped,

on
their

board
shoes.

even to

1885,

when another
its

ship was wrecked at the same place,

cargo was instantly pillaged, though under the

authorities.

guardianship of the French

Needless

to say, rol)beries are of daily occurrence.

Even

in

1888 an

officer's

horse was stolen on the road to

Ain Drahm,

in the

Khrumir mountains.

302

CAVE DWELLERS
The prevalence of
theft has originated a peculiar

mode
gain

of earning a livelihood.
their

Certain individuals

subsistence

entirely

by pursuing

and

finding stolen cattle. J

They follow the

track of the

animals,

mark the road

the

taken, and, as a rule, disis

cover where
ofter
fear,

booty

concealed.
if

They often

terms to the thieves

these

show signs of

and thus extract money both from the man

robbed,

who has been

perty,
up.

when they

recover his proto be given

and from the

thief,

who pays not

The robbers naturally commit murders and

other serious crimes, for to

of their robberies
is

them the concealment

In 1888 two

all-important.

Kabail were thus plundered and murdered by the

Khrumir.

The

latter

had ordered

burn the corpses, but an inquiry

women was made and

their

to
all

was revealed, and subsequently three of the

were hanged at Tunis.

culprits

Until the French in 1881 put a check on them,

the

Khrumir were uncontrolled.

When

the Bey's

soldiers arrived to collect taxes, they

were received

with gun-shots, and were generally compelled to

retreat.

Very often they defeated the Bey's whole army,

as in 1855,
as

when they

cut
;

down Ahmed Bey himself

in a pass nortli of Beja.

he fled from them

and when the Nefza mas-

sacred three hundred

men

Even

since

the

French occupation they have


THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA
broken
out.

303

Wlien, in 1887, the olHcials

who

con-

trolled the tobacco

monopoly went amongst them

and a
Ijotli

to

make

certain in|uiries, they rose in arms,

regular battle was fought in which

killed

men were

and wounded.
this

To

day they frequently revolt against their and very often

kill

own

chiefs,

them.
off

Like practical people they sometimes palm on the authorities a decrepit old man, who
instead of the actual murderer.
is

hung

They do not venture

the

to

make open war

against

French,

but they wreak their vengeance by

setting fire to the grand cork-woods in the

Khrumir

mountains, although aware that

prisoned they are undone.
Finally,
Sallust,

if

caught and im-

we must bear
short

in

mind

that, according to

the mingling of the races

stature
(the

of Gtuli

and

Berbers of

Cro-Magnon type)
In

resulted in the people

known

as the Numidians.

ancient times they had no fixed dwellings.

Thus

Polybius relates that Massinissa's greatest triumph

was that he had induced them

abodes.
3.

to

live in settled

The

fair-haired

Berbers

(Brachycephalous

short-headed, the Grenelle and Celtic type),

(d)

The Grenelle type

is

found

in

Spain and

probably in Morocco, as in Malta and on the coasts

of Tunisia.

304
(h)

CAVE DWELLERS
Brachyceplialous
Beriders

of

the

Ligurian
the ishxnd
again,
;

type.

In

Tunisia
the

these are found on

of Jerba, in

Matmata mountains, and,

throughout
are
to

along the coast, more especially about Susa

l)ut

they

are

also

scattered

the

interior

of the

country.

They
and

akin
old

to the
Celtic

Mozabit
cognate

and the Kabail,

races.

the

The resemblance of these types

to those of the

people on the corresponding northern shores of the

Mediterranean

is

very striking.

The brachycephalous

population of the ancient " Gallia Cisalpina," in the

valley of the Rhone, in Auvergne, and in the Alps,
is

of light complexion,

and peaceful temperament,

nor maffia, nor, generis

for neither vendetta, coltetta,

ally sj)eaking,

any similar description of crime,

this people.
|

known amongst

^
is,

In Eastern Tunisia, aloncj the coast from Susa

as far as the island of Jerba, the soil

compara-

tively speaking, well cultivated.

The Berbers there

wear a peculiar costume (narrow blue trousers and a

woollen coat, but rarely the burnous).
agriculturists are, in
in

The peaceful
and

some

districts, also traders,

others

remarkably good
is

seamen.

The region
civilised

they inhabit

therefore

more highly

than
of

the rest of Tunisia,

and most of the

soldiers

the

4tli

Ijattalion

of Tirailleurs are enrolled from

amongst these

natives, since they lend themselves

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA

better to discipline,

305

and are more

easily

commanded
Tunisia

than the natives of Algeria.

On
alone
are
is

the whole, the

agriculturist

in

is

found only amongst the brachycephalous

a

tribes.
l)ut

This
there

remarkable connecting

link,

many

others which certainly indicate

that on

both sides of the Mediterranean we find a coo-nate o

race.

As

the

Auvergnats,

the

Savoyards,

and

the
a

Piedmontese leave their hearths and homes

while to earn

for

money

in various

ways

in

European

towns
seen

how

many
?

little

Savoyards have we not

their hand-organs
forth, the

formerly in

Denmark with

and marmots

so

do the Berbers journey

Mzaboas, the Kabail, the people of the island of

Jerba,

of

Eastern

Tunisia,

or

of

the

Matmata

mountains, to the towns on the south coast of the

Mediterranean to earn a substantial sum of money,

with which on their return
palms,
a

home they may

and
in

l)uy

few head of

cattle,

wife.
I

For
a

instance, at the

Grand Hotel

Tunis

found

couple of

men from Duirat

serving in the kitchen.

/--"Like their brethren in France, the Berber traders

lare
1

born democrats.

Between

their social organisation

and that of the

pelts one finds

more than one point of resemblance.

is

Thus there
spirit,

a comparatively limited religious

combined
20

with

great superstition,

equally

306

CAVE DWELLERS
Roman
Catholic Auverernats

amonQ;st the

and the

Mohammedan KabaiL \ L On my way to Tunis I passed through Auvergne, where I observed many old villages built on the tops
of
hills.

In the Matmata, and later in the Kal)ail

1

mountains,

was struck with the similarity of the

I

Berber villaoes to those

France.-^
[Finally,
I

had seen

in

Southern

may remark

that in

many

places on

the North African coast one sees stone cairns and

monuments

that are strikingly like those found in

France, and, moreover, at

/

home

in

Denmark

alsoTi

It stands to reason that in a

country like Tunisia,

which since time immemorial has been inhabited by

so

many

different

races,

it

is

not always easy to

trace the various types

when

these are closely intcr-

mingled.^v

Still

there

may

always be found amongst

these mixed peoples a few individuals

who

bear, in

a greater or lesser degree, the impress of a

racial tendency.

marked

In the oases that

finds,

lie

towards the south-east, one

for

instance,

brachycephalous Berbers inter-

mingled with the original Berbers of the oases

descendants of the Gtulians.

the

One

is

soon struck with the consequence, amongst

others, of the high value set

girls

on the chastity of the

;

whom

they desire to marry

in direct contrast

in this respect to the dwellers in other oases.

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA

307

In Central and Western Tunisia one finds not a

few Berbers mingled with the Arabs.\_l Those who

are

nomads

live as

do the aristocratic Arabs

but

those

who have

fixed abodes are, on the contrary,

feeling.

i-epublican in

thought and

They were

originally governed

by a

"

Jemaa,"

or superior assenil)ly, wdiose decrees were

made

in

accordance with local tradition (kanun), which was

regarded as law

the

kanun being held

in

even

greater honour than the Koran.

Since the French occupation, legal jurisdiction

has been established over the whole country, with

kaids, khalifas,
in Tunis,

and sheikhs, and a superior tribunal

[^his curtailment of their former liberties

has placed the Berbers on the same footing as the

Arabs, and has led to the
ancient institutions^

disappearance of their

The Berber language

It has

is

distinct

from the Semitic.

is

now

nearly died out in Tunis, and

it still

sup-

planted by Arabic, but

survives on the island

of Jerba, where at least one document exists written

in

the

ancient
in

characters.

Also

found

it

still

spoken

many

of the villages near DuiratQ^n the

Matmata mountains, but the

absolutely forgotten thereH

written

lanouaoe

is

According to Tissot, this language

similar to
all

is

in the

main

the dialects spoken in the Sahara by

the Tibu and the Tuareg right

away from Senegal

3o8

CAVE DWELLERS
new
dialects

to Nubia, but of course not including the

spoken by the Negroes or Sudanese.

The Tuareg language

is

that which most nearly

;

approaches that of the Berbers

ent peoples,
Shloh,

but those independ-

who

call

themselves Imoshag, Amazigh,

may

be said to be more closely akin to the

Kabail, Zauau of Algeria, and the Berbers of Tunisia.

my scribed my
In

book, Algeria

and

the

Sahara,

de-

travels through the Sahara,

and at the

same time Here

I

o;ave a short sketch of the Tuaresf bands.

will

give from the best works o

of French

travellers,

but adhering as far as possible to Bertlio-

lon's account, a brief

supplementary commentary on
in

the

status

of

woman

these
is

desert

tribe

com-

munities, for their position

quite different from that

countries.

occupied by their sisters in

Mohammedan

Tuareg;

woman

exercises a

decided rioht of
Indeed, without

option in the matter of marriage.

her consent, and

unless

she

herself has chosen a

in

husband, she cannot be given in marriage, and,

spite of the Koran, she has

found the way to prevent

her husband takinor a second wife.

Amongst the Tuareg tribes

in the

Western Sahara,
it

monogamy
rise to

is

so firmly established that

:

has given

the following^ ada2;e

"

The man who takes

two wives
^

invites death to his tent."

du Nord ; Captain
Bissuel, Lcs

Duveyrier, Lcs Touarcg

Largeaii,

Touareg de

V Quest;

Lc Sahara Algerien,

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA

Divorce, so easily obtainable amongst

309

Mohamis,

medans,
besides,

is

almost nnkuown to the Tuareg, and

difficult

very

of accomplishment.

It

can

only take place after the case has been submitted to

a court of arbitration composed of four [)ersons
for each of the

two
;

married

pair.
is

The Tuareg woman

she
is

not her husband's slave

his equal, she sits beside

him
is

at meals,

and can

take long journeys alone, for she

not shut up like

an Arab woman.

Whilst the

man

journeys afar with the caravans,

or on freebooting expeditions, she remains at to direct affairs.

home

But
is

this

is

not

all,

for she studies

old

traditions,

highly
in

enlightened,

and

far

in

advance of the

men

knowledgje of old customs

and manners, and

writino-

also of the art of reading

and
she

the Tuaresi; lang-uag-e.

In short,
is

it

is

who

preserves their traditions and

ac(|uainted with
as the

their literature,

and indeed sometimes ranks

highest authority of the tribe.

Duveyrier relates that amongst the eastern Tuareg

the

women

take part in the councils

when the

tribes

asseml)le, just as did the Iberian

women

in ancient

days.
In the battlefield
it is

often dread of the women's

t(->

scorn

which dii\cs the men

make

the utmost

efforts to return victorious.

" This trait

reminds one of the Iberian maidens,

3IO

CAVE DWELLERS
chose their husbands from amongst the bravest

who

warriors."

Descent on the mother's

side

alone ennobles,

and
wife.

the

children

belong to the

family

of

the

For instance, the son of a nobly born woman and

a slave
is

acknowledged as

free born,

whereas the
But,

son of a slave and a free

man

remains a slave.

in favour of the latter, certain tribes

have created a

particular caste called " Iradjenat," who, though yet

slaves, are
It

exempt from certain heavy

labour.
entire

must be added that the women have

control over their

own

property.

Inheritance in the tribes goes from a

man

to his

brother, and, in default, to the son of a sister, but

never to the direct progeny.

In such communities misconduct on the part of

women
death.

is

not tolerated,

it

is

simply punished with

Captain Bissuel relates that a native of the

l)y

province of Setif killed his sister

father,

order of his

they having learnt that she was leading a

life.

dissolute

Both father and

1)rother

mourned

for

the poor culprit, but were convinced that they had

only done their duty.

On

the other hand, according to Duveyrier, the

le

Tuareg lawfully claim

droit

du seigneur from

their female slaves, before these marry.

The same custom

is

mentioned by Herodotus as

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA

311

obtaining amongst the Adyrmacliid in the neiglibourliood of Egypt.

The western
picable.

Tuareg;

re<>"ard this

custom as des-

The Tuareg have

which varies
in

to give their wives a

dowry,
for

amount.

The western Tuareg,

instance, give at least six camels, a negress,

and a

complete costume.

These are the principal features of Tuareg customs.

They have many points

the mystical

in

common

with those of

Amazons and the

Iberians of antiquity.
a

Even now among the Basques the man plays

subordinate part.
the house.
"

The woman
is

rules

and controls

The husband

her

head servant,"

who

brings to the house only himself and his labour,

together with a stipulation for progeny.

The Arabs.
The Arabs
nearly
all

in Tunisia are, like those in Algeria,

nomads.

They

reside

chiefly

in

the

southern and central portions of the Regency.

They

are recognisa1)le l)y their

tall,

shmder

figures,

their lean,

muscular build, and

l)y

their dignified

nobility of carriage.

The Arab

cast of countenance

is

narrow, the nose

curved, the lips thin and graced by a delicate black

beard, the black eyes are lively, but the expression
crafty.

312

CAVE DWELLERS
The Arab woman
is

endowed with
is

a pretty, well-

formed

figure,

but she

of small stature.

She

is,

on the whole,

attractive, but fades early, being old

l^y

and ugly through hard work

her twentieth year.
is

the time she attains

Unlike the Berber woman, she

usually obliged to go. abroad veiled.

As the Bey was

form

too

weak

to

collect his

own

taxes, he united the various groups of

to
his

nomad Arabs

auxiliary troops.

These tribes were

thence designated " Mahzen," were almost exempt

from taxation, or only paid in kind, such as

dates,
etc.

oil,

In return

they bound themselves to

fight the robber

bands

( Jisli)

who

frequently harassed

the country.
tlicirs.

Were they

victorious, all spoils

were

Their ostensible duty was to assist the Bey's

own

soldiers to recover the taxes.

This collection

resolved itself into sheer plunder.

perquisites

The
diff"a "

least of their

was the right to "

for

and "alfa,"

which means hospitality

horses
;

themselves and their

of

this

they
often

took

advantage

to

the

greatest

extent,

pillaging

wherever

they

appeared.

For instance, the holy city of Kairwan was often

compelled to raise forced contributions under this
pretext.

Their morals, as a rule, are very lax.

duction of married

The

ab-

women and

girls is

common, and

adultery a matter of course.

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA

The upbringing that an Arab woman
a tent
is

313

receives in

not exactly calcuhxted to ensure in any way

a moral tone. of her innocent

young

girl is

from the very outset

life

apt to see and learn

much

that

to us appears offensive.

Whereas the man has every possible right of

control over his wife, she has only the "justice of

God"

(el

hak Allah), meaning that he must

fulfil

his obligations towards her as her husband, failing

which she can demand a divorce, not an infrequent

occurrence.

After the
slaves,

enactment of the law emancipating-

the

men

in

some

tribes

married

their

neQ;resses,

with a view to thus evadin; the law.

that the former

But

it

befell

went into court and

complained that they were defrauded of their rights

as wives.

Although the Arabs, as

aliens,

have always been

they

in a minority in the land of the Ber])ers, yet

were the masters until the arrival of the French.

They had

steadily spread

themselves over

all

tlie

open plains and lower tablelands, moving ever from

east to west.
its
it

Thus each

tribe continually

changed

territory,

one tribe ever pressing another before

farther westward.

Long

l)efore

Mohammed's day
it

this

immigration
after his

had already begun, but

time that
it

was not

until

made any

real

headway, and the con-

314

CAVE DWELLERS
its

quest of the country and

conversion to

Mob am
the

medanisni took place.

Not

until

much

later,

in

tlie

middle of

eleventh century, was the great migration accomplished, in

which

l)oth

Mongols and Egyptians were

included.

Such great waves, however, always cause

a counter wave. of

When
on
tide

the tribes reached the shores

the

Atlantic

the

most distant coasts of

Morocco,

the

turned.
all

Thus the

tribe

that

claims to be the chief of

the tribes, namely, the

is

Shorfa, or " Followers of the Prophet,"

precisely

that which, having been to Morocco, returned eastwards.

Yet another
"

recedino-

wave brouo-ht back the

Spain, and

Arabs

"

who had conquered

who were
most part
tide,

afterwards driven forth again.

These Spanish "Arabs" were

Berbers

for the

who had been

peninsula,

carried

westward by the
long sojourn

and who returned,

Iberian

after

on

the

blended

with

other

races

Ligurians, l])erians, Celts, and Western Goths.

The greater proportion of these

are

refugees,

who

known

in

Barbary as " Andaluz," established

themselves in the towns, where they introduced a

new

strain

into

tlie

already mixed race of Moors.

These Spanish Moors are more especially represented

in Tunis.
It is quite natural that, in a

country so often

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA

invaded and peopled
l)y

315
to this
])e

foreigners

who

day
an

have never really amalgamated, there should

entire lack of patriotism such as
It is as
is

found in Europe.

Mussulmans that these

against the

races have united to

make war

Christian.

Amongst them-

selves they are often at enmity.

Mohammedanism.
Thouoh
it is

an undoulited fact that the various

races of Berbers
their identity,

and Arabs have preserved much of

also noticeable that, to a stranger
first

it is

arriving in the country for the

time, the in-

habitants appear, as
race.

it

were, to be fused into one

This fusion

is

the result of their creed, for

Mohammedanism

has been drawn like a veil over

the whole country.

Mohammed, through
daily labour the

the

Koran, gave to even

in a marvellous

stamp of religion, and

the various races,

way moulded

all

who

thus became
life,

" the faithful," into one

mode

of thought and
all

which gradually shaped them

although

to one pattern,

hereditary inclinations
still

and customs con-

tended, and arc

straint.

contending, against such con-

The

features which appear most strongly

marked

in these various races

who have become Mussulmans,

and

are their individual absorption in their religion

their family organisation.

3i6

CAVE DWELLERS
The stubborn
influence of Islamism on the com-

munity
(it is

is

entirely expressed in the phrase "

Mektub

"

written).

Fatalism has destroyed

all initiative,

all
is

progress.

How men may

act

is

immaterial.

" It

written."

To the Mussulmans, authority

Their
creed

is

of divine origin.
to

ordains

that

everyone must bow

rise to

authority.

This has given

the most complete

is

absolutism, alike from the Bey, whose title

"

The

chosen of
Tunisia,"

God and
down

the owner of the kingdom of

officials.

to the lowest of

But yet the yoke may prove too heavy

then

the oppressed revolt, as has so often happened.

The

influence of relioion o
insane,

is

manifest in the treat-

ment
sacred.
is

of the

whose utterances are held as

of real

The number

and pretended lunatics

Hospitality
is

consequently very great.

not

exactly gladly offered to such afflicted persons, but

they are permitted to take whatever they please

from a house, a liberty often very widely interpreted.

Latterly a
to be

madman

in

Tunis declared several houses

All the inmates at once fled,

under a ban.

and could not be persuaded to return.

This indi-

vidual was also inspired with the sublime idea of

erecting a barricade in
streets,

one of the most populous

lifted

by means of doors which he

from their

hinges.

The Prophet organised the family on the

lines

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA

best adapted to
tlie

317

nomad

tribes,

who were

destined

to be great conquerors.

He

ordained the absorption

;

of the vanquished into the family

while the males

were killed

or, if fortunate,

made

slaves, the

women

were allowed

to enter the family.

This was the foundation of the rapid conquest of

North Africa by Islam.

To ensure unity

in

the family, composed of so

many and

varied elements, the

man
lie

is

invested with

the most absolute authority.

does not marry

his

but he buys his wife,

who becomes
she

property.

He

is

unquestionably her lord and master, he can

kill

maltreat her,

her

if

is

untrue to him, without

risking injury to a hair of his

own
more

head.

All that

he owes her

is

the " hak Allah."

Crimes
fear of the

asjainst

women
;

are

rare

now throuoh
legal census,

French

but as there

is

no

many murders may

broug;ht to lioht.

be committed which are never

Rehgious influence

first

and foremost,

also life in

common under
characteristics

equal conditions of

many

generations
of the

of different extraction, have obliterated of the

many

natives

of

Tunisia.

Many
tribes
tri])es

Berber tribes have been entirely transformed into

Arabs, and, on the other hand,

many Arab
there
it
is

have been Berberised.

Indeed,

are
well

forming a subdivision, of which

known

some

are Berbers,

some Arabs.

3i8

CAVE DWELLERS
Of the
relig;ions l)rotlierlioods, so

numerous

else-

where under Islam, there are comparatively few

Tunisia.

in

We

find the " Tidyanya,"

l)esides

" Medaniya,"

and the " Aissaua," and,

tered " Shorfa."

these,

many

scat-

In the towns there,

the country.

is

more fanaticism than

in

In this respect " those

who can

read

and write are the worst."

Yet many customs and reminiscences may be
found of a former age before Mohammedanism was
forced on the Tunisians.

For instance, the people hang

sacred trees;
Jii'e

l)its

of rag

all

over

many

fear the

" evil eye," or honour

as a peculiarly lucky

number.

For

this reason

they set the mark of their own

houses to protect the
latter.

five fingers

on their
not un-

Indeed,

it

is

common
if

for a

man who

has more than five children,

questioned as to their number, to reply that he

five,

has

rather than be obliged to

name an unlucky

number.
If rain
is

long delayed, they take refuge in exor-

cism,

and

will

on occasion even dip their kaid

his

in a

fountain

so

that

beard

may

be wetted

that

surely brings rain.

The Moors.
Nowhere has
all

origin of race been so entirely

effaced as in the towns.

There have sprung up

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA

Moors

319

(juite

new

race of

town

dwellers,

which

may

be said to have absorbed

all others.

AVhereas the population of the interior of the

country to a great extent escaped intermixture with

the

new

elements, up to the time of the arrival of

it

the Arabs,

has been qidte otlierwise in the towns,

where foreign traders settled nnd intermingled with

the native inhabitants.

Amongst

the Moors in the towns are found, as

has been said, the so-called " Andaluz,"

who were

driven out of Spain.

Several of these distinguished

families have carefully preserved the records of their

genealogy, and some of them

their houses
in

still

possess the keys of

Seville

and Granada.

They have

certainly intermarried with other ftxmilies of different

origin,

but

still

cling to their traditions,

and retain

and exercise to a certain extent the handicrafts and

occupations
of
their

forefathers

in

Spain.

The

gardeners of " Teburka," for instance, are descendants of the gardeners of the Guadalquivir, and the
forefathers of the potters near Nebel were potters at

Malaoa.

The blood
also

of

slaves

of

all

nationalities

has
as

been

introduced

into

the

people

known

Moors.

The complexion of the Moor

rarely,

is

fair,

or,

more

olive

it

resembles that of the

Southern
is

Italian or Spaniard.

The shape of the head

oval

320

CAVE DWELLERS

the nose long, and tlicy have thick eyebrows and

very black beards.

built,

Of medium
is

height, they are well

and

their carriage

easy and graceful.

either

They

are considered
Christians,

more honourable than

Jews or
kind

and were noted formerly

for their

treatment of their slaves.

Thou oh

clever
is

workmen
In

and well educated, their moral tone

old days the

not high.

town of Tunis was the great market

;

frequented by the people of the Sudan

nothing was

considered worth having that had not been

a Tunisian.

made by

The Turkish element,

and

as represented

by the Bey
have

his surroundings, has long since ceased to

any influence on the Moorish race

real

in Tunisia.

No
In

Turks are now to be found

in the country.

the towns, however, are a few descendants of Turkish

soldiers

and

Tunisian

women

they

are

called

" Kurughis,"

and are

lazy, vain,

and ignorant, and

consequently not

much

respected.
dwellers, on the whole,

The Moors, or the town

are,

however, not so vigorous and energetic as the

;

nomads and the mountaineers

more effeminate, and they

their

manners are

are lazier.

Crimes against the person, such as assault or

murder, are rare in the towns, but drunkenness on
the sly
is

common, and immorality

is

prevalent.

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA

The Jews.
The
aiicieiit

321

conquerors of the country, the Car-

thaginians and Romans,

forts,

who covered
left

it

with towns,

and monuments, have

no impress of them-

selves on the appearance of the present inhabitants,

nor do there^ survive amongst the tribes any traditions concern in o- them.

No more
in early

remains to recall the Vandals

and

Goths, yet the latest researches prove the existence

days of other Semitic peoples besides the

Arab.

The

earliest importation to the

country of Semitic

blood was doubtless the Phoenician.

the
fact

To

this

is

due
on

that

many

of the

types

portrayed

Chaldaic and Assyrian ruins are

throuGfhout Tunisia.

now found

scattered

At the same time

mentioned the Jews, the

as

the Phoenicians

may

be

earliest of

whom
as

pro])ably

came

to Barbary at the

same time

the former,
later,

but their number was largely added to

the conquest of Jerusalem by Titus.
is

after
it

Moreover,

known

that

many

Berber tribes were converted to

after the

Judaism and remained Jews, even

conquest.

Arab
is

The

classic

type of European Jew

in Tunisia.

therefore rarely

met with

After the
cally,

Mohammedans

the Jews are, numeriin Barbary.

most strongly represented

21

They

322

CAVE DWELLERS

form somewhat important communities, not only in

the town of Tunis, but also in
in the
all

other towns, even

island

of Jerba.

Possibly with theirs has

mingled the blood of the ancient Carthaoinians.

There are also a great number of Jews whose
ancestors were ejected from

Spain

and Portugal

these are called " Grana," from their former most

important trading city in Spain.

These "Grana" were under the protection of the

foreign consuls, and therefore have had nothing to

complain of; but the old Jews were in a disastrous

condition in former days, and suffered much, so
that some
isolated

much

families
;

abjured

Judaism and
still,

became Mohammedans

such they are

but they

always associate with their former co-religionists.

Other Jews

those
their

of Jerba,

for

instance

have
Jews

modified their religious forms, pray to

saints,

Mohammedan

and hold

Marabouts

in honour.

A
who
tected

peculiar head-dress distinguishes those

are under

no protection, from those who are proconsuls.

It is

by the

an irony of fate that

many Jews have

home
what
in

placed themselves under Spanish

protection, because they

knew

that Spain was their

old

days.

!r^ow

they are protected by

the country that formerly drove them forth.

similar
is

Some-

the case of the Alo^erian Jews in

Tunis who seek French protection.

All the

Jews of Tunis retain the ancient Spanish

THE TRIBES OF TUNISIA

ritual.

323

They

are peaceful and well behaved,

fsxith,

and

not so grasping as others of their

clever at taking advantage

but they are

of a good opportunity

when

there

is

a prospect of

making money,

or
is

when
there-

their trade
fore in great

may

be extended.

Commerce

measure in their hands.

In the whole Regency of Tunisia there are over

fifty

thousand Jews, and their numbers

In the town of Tunis there
is

increase

rapidly.

a " ghetto,"

the quarter formerly devoted to them, and where

they were compelled to dwell.

It

has long since

become too
over
all

small,

and the Jews have now spread

the other quarters, and in the bazaars have

wrested from the Moors

many
is

of their shops.

This Jewish community

an interesting study,

and one
they so

is

astonished to find

how

in

many

respects

little

resemble their co-religionists in other

countries.

COSTUMES
The Dress of the Countrywomen
(Arabs

Berbers)
the

Over

the

wliole

of

Tunisia

countrywomen,

whether

Arab

or Berber,

wear a simihxr costume,

which must be almost identical with that worn

by the Grecian women

in olden

days.

The

dress
of

consisted
(TrevrXo?),

women of what was known as

of

the

ancient

Greece
^

the " peplos "

in

a white wrapper gathered

by a
on

belt

about

the

waist

{^mvt]),

and supported
and
eVexat).

the

shoulders by pins
dress,

{irepovai

As head-

or for ornament, they wore a kind of fore(xpv^e/xvov)

head band

or veil, and, in addition to

etc.

these, earrings, necklets, bracelets, etc.

The

" peplos "

was a large piece of

stuff

without

seam, which was folded round the body from one

side.

The

dress
It

of a

Tunisian

woman

of to-day

is

the same.

consists of a

" m'lhalfa,"

which

re-

sembles the " peplos," being a long narrow piece

of
stuff,
1

wound round

the body in such a manner

324

From

Dr. E. F. Bojeseu's Handbook on Greek Antiquities.

THE DRESS OF THE COUNTRYWOMEN

that
it

O-^v")

entirely
is

covers

the

back and shoulders.

breast,

One end

hrouiiht O
;

over
other
skirt.

the

down

in

front

the

end covers the lower

'O
is

and hancfs

limbs, and

forms a

The

piece

so long-

that
sides.

it

hangs in

folds,

which partly conceal the

"

Whilst the Greek " peplos

was held

to-

gether by

"fibul" on the shoulders, the clasps

that confine the "m'lhalfa" are placed rather forward

over

the

breast.

The

Grecian

woman's neck
the contrary

was bare, her chest covered.

with the Tunisian
" m'lhalfji
"
is

But

it is

woman.

In other words, the

merely a "peplos" which has been

drawn forward.

Many
drapery

Tunisian

women

draw^ the

"m'lhalfa" over the

to

breast,
;

and arrange one end

form a

full

others, as in the

Matmata

villages,

omit

this,

but wear over their bosom a

called

thin

square
l)y

of

stuff

"katfia."

This

is

secured

the clasps already mentioned.

In a few places, such as the Khrumir

tains,

moun-

the

"m'lhalfa"
in

is

composed of two pieces

of stuff

worn one

front

and one behind, held Over the neck and

large
tow^el.

together by the breast clasp.

shoulders
is is

laid

rather

The

"m'lhalfa"
a

always bound in at the waist by

belt,

long woollen

generally

white or

of

some

bright colour.

The
dark

clothes for daily wear are, as a rule, of a

l)lue

woollen

material,

l)ut

for

festivals

or

326

CAVE DWELLERS
red,

weddings they wear

garments of
silk,

yellow, or parti-coloured

cotton, or wool.
is

In most reg;ions a kerchief

(ta(h'hira)
;

worn on the head

a turhan (assaha),

round

this

is

wound

comjjosed of a long piece of

coins
large,
is

stuft'

ornamented with
is

or

trinkets.

Over

this
cloth,

again
in

thrown a

often embroidered,

which the face

enveloped (begnuk).
Generally speaking, the Tunisian

women wear
life

no underclothing, at
the
country.

all

events not in daily

occasions,

in

On
has
rule,

festive

especially

in

the towns of the oases, they assume a white shirt

(suiera).

It

very
wears

short
one.

or

no

sleeves.

A
shirt

bride,

as

a
is

The

bridal

(gomedj)
ing
at

generally embroidered about the open-

the

neck in

silk

or
red.

cotton,

in

stripes

of

black, yellow, blue,

and

In daily
barefoot.

life

they do not wear shoes,

feasts the

lut

go

At the

women put

on yellow

shoes without heels (balglia).

The ornaments worn by the poor

of brass, copper,
or

are

mostly
cir-

horn
;

])y

those in better
rich,

cumstances, of silver
gold.

or

sometimes by the

of

Round the neck

and
in

are

worn

string's of glass beads,

the
;

ears

large

slight

earrings ("khoras,"

from cross)
(addide).

on

the wrists, broad

open

bracelets

Finally, they

wear large heavy anklets

THE DRESS OF THE COUNTRYWOMEN

called
" kralkral,"

327

that are generally

made not

to

meet.

To

fasten the "ni'llialfa" on the shoulders large

brooches are

commonly employed.
circle,

These are

in

the form of an open

a pin (khlel).

through which passes

On

the breast they wear a silver chain (ghomra),

flat

from which depend coins or

plates

of metal.
All

These chains are fastened to the breast-pins.

these ornaments are
or oases,

made by

the Jews of the towns

and are

really artistic productions.

hats,

The women do not usually wear straw

though

some may amongst the Berbers of the island of Jerba.

These hats are precisely similar to those depicted
on some of the Tanag-ra figures found in Greece.
In Jerba are worn crescent-shaped breast orna-

ments, said to come from Tripoli

in filaoree

also

ornaments

work from

Zarsis.

The women often carry

tied

little

looking-glass

to

their

breast-pins,

and

also

the

requisites

for applying

henna and kohol.

When
of
a

they fetch water in their great pitchers

they carry these slung on their backs by means

wide band

round the forehead, or

in

the

end of their turban, loosened

Their hair
is

for the purpose.

is

never plaited, but

covered by

the cloth or turban.

stockings.

A woman

is

rarely seen in

In

few places where the roads are

328
l)ad

CAVE DWELLERS
they wear wooden shoes.

The Khrumirs

are

proficient in

making

these.

Much
dress
in
is

of the material
or

employed

in the

women's

woven
it

made hy themselves
worn, but some
is

in the region

which

is

brought from

Tripoli,

the

Sudan, or from Europe.

As

a rule,

however, the countrywomen wear only their

own

handiwork.
In the
oases
I

Matmata mountains and the neighbouring

to
collect

was able
the

and buy a complete

had been made
in

costume,

whole of

wliicli

that region, and chiefly of native materials.

It

must be mentioned that the Berber women

than
their

have everywhere more freedom

sisters,

Arab

and are therefore often unveiled.

Yet

many
at all

of the tribes have gradually adopted

Arab customs,

and

in

this particular follow their

example

events in the vicinity of a town, for in the country

the

women

all

go unveiled, only hiding their faces

on occasion.

We

will

now examine

the dress of the men, both

Arabs and Berbers.

In contradistinction to the Kabail of iVlgeria, the
Aral)s always cover their heads.

In Tunis, where
all

the

races

are

so

mixed,

nearly

the

men go

covered.

They wear white cotton caps under the

red " shashia," allowing a narrow edge of white to

appear beneath the

latter.

THE DRESS OF THE COUNTRYWOMEN

The Arabs always wear
Berbers, generally.
a liaik or burnous
;

329

the

The burnous,
" haik "

as

is

known, consists of a cape

united at the breast.

The
worn

is

a piece of thinner stuff, which

is

as a drapery, usually under the burnous, but

also alone.

In the southern mountains of Tunisia

that

found

many

of the

mountaineers wore, instead of

burnous or haik, a piece of stuff without hood or

seam.
In this they draped themselves so that the
It
is

head was covered.

wool.
haik.

was usually of brown or grey

as a rule white, as
is

The burnous

also the

Many

of the poorer folk, especially amongst

life
;

the

Berbers, wear nothing else in daily

shirt, waistcoat,
(sjebl)a)

but

they assume a
gala

and

coat, as also a

burnous

on festive occasions.
is

This

last is shorter

than the real burnous, and

made
stuff",

with short wide sleeves, of bright coloured

often embroidered in
silk.

The people on the

the south have a
still

coast

near

Susa

and to
orar-

shorter

brown -hooded
b'n'nous,
is

ment
wear

in

place

of a

haik

or

and they

trousers.

This

costume

convenient for

fishermen.

A
the

large

l)road-brimmed straw hat

j^lains.

is

worn by

denizens of the

Shoes or sandals of
])y

morocco leather or hide are worn

many.

330

CAVE DWELLERS
Red morocco
leather boots,

worn

inside a shoe,

are used

by

riders, also spurs.

is

The purse
bag.

a long, narrow, knitted or

woven

The Berber often wears a

cases, only a haik over
it,

shirt,

and, in such

and no burnous.
is

The usual costume of the Arab

Algeria

that worn in
the
latter

the
P]erber,

burnous and

the
;

haik,

bound on with a camel's-hair cord

shoes (or boots).

Of the

shirt,

haik, burnous, bare legs,

and

uncovered head.

Such variations of these costumes as may exist

in Tunisia

have been brought about by an altered

mode

of

life

and the admixture of

races.

Dr. Bertholon declares that most of the costumes

are of very ancient origin.

That of the Jews,

for

instance, he dates back to the days of the Cartha-

ginians

the burnous, he says, resembles the hooded

Roman

cloak.
is

The Moorish woman's dress

extremely coquettish.
''

very pretty, but

It is

overladen with ornaments.

In the morning she wears a very scanty cosIf

tume.

one has the luck to catch a glimpse of her

at an early hour as she

moves hither and thither

She
is

in

the harem, she

is

not easily forgotten.

short
sleeves,

clad

in a simple shirt, with

which leave
she wears

her [)lump arms

exposed.

Under

this

trousers, so short that they scarcely reach the knees

THE DRESS OF THE COUNTRYWOMEN

a
little

331

shciwl,

of which the ends are knotted in

front at the waist, replaces a skirt,

and enfolds her

pretty form.
bodice,

Her bosoms

are supported Ijy a narrow

is

and about her hair

fall

bound

a silk kerchief,

but her locks

down over

her neck" {Des Godins

de Souhesnes).
AVlien she leaves the house she wears a " gandura,"
a kind of cloak of transparent material, fastened on

the shoulders

l)y

gold or silver pins.

Besides this

she has put on wrinkled white linen trousers reach-

ing to her ankles

over her head she throws a white

kerchief; and, lastly, she conceals her face with a

long embroidered

veil.

The

Moorish

woman

blackens

her

eyebrows,

enhances the beauty of her eyes with antimony

(khol),

and

stains with orange-red

henna the

nails

of her fingers and toes and the palms of her hands.

The dress of the Moor much resembles that of

the Jew.

He

wears a tasselled cap (shashia), surcoat,

rounded by a turban, and a silken vest or

emln'oidered in gold or silver.

The
folds
;

trousers are very wide, and

is

fall

in

heavy

the lower part of the leg

uncovered, and on

his bare feet he

wears broad shoes of red or yellow

morocco leather (babush).

The costume of the Jews,

they were
is

as

worn by them before

free, to distinguish

them from the Arabs,

still

very picturesque, and, fortunately,

universal.

332

CAVE DWELLERS
The men, who
are generally handsome, wear a

tassclled

shashia,

often

surrounded

by a turban.
little

Their wide, pleated Turkish trousers reach a

below the knee, and are secured at the waist by a

belt.

They wear
shoes.

also coat

and waistcoat, stockings,

and

Many

have now adopted European

is

attire,

but

the characteristic Jewish type

easily distinguished.

The Jewish women

shirts,

are not veiled.

silk

They

w^ear

narrow

embroidered

trousers,

cotton

stockings, shoes,

and on

their heads a pointed cap.

These women, when young, are very pretty, but

also

very immoral

They
girls

are generally spoilt

by

being too stout, young

being fed up to make

them

attractive for their weddino^.

is

There

no native industry peculiar to Tunisia,

but there are a few wdiich

notice.

may

be considered worth

The holy town of Kairwan

beautiful carpets.

is

famed

for

its

In Gefsa and Jerba also curious

and

l)eautiful carpets are

woven.

Clay ware
day, pottery
is

is

a speciality of Nebel, where; to this

made

that recalls that found in the

Phoenician and
tery
etc.,
is

Eoman tombs

near Carthao^e.

Pot-

also

made

at Jerba in the

form of

jars, vases,

which are sent to different parts of the country

Tunisia

northern
Nebel
;

obtaining

its

pottery

from

southern, from Jerba.


THE DRESS OF THE COUNTRYWOMEN
Amongst the
tribes,

333

pottery

is

also

made by

the

women and

negresses, but generally without the aid

of the potter's wheel.

The Khrumir

in particular

are noted for their peculiar ornamented pottery.

In the towns, moreover, and especially in Tunis,

there are

numbers of shoemakers, leather workers,

and pouch makers,
etc, etc.

saddlers, harness

There

are also excellent dyers

and makers of perfumes.

fans,
;

In the oases are

made

and baskets of palm

and great

leaves and of alfa straw

crates for corn,

baskets, hats,

which take the place

in these regions

of the clay jars of the Kabail.

Tripoli lies quite close to Tunis, factures attain a high level
fore of stuffs
;

and there manu-

a great quantity there-

-carpets and

worked leather

articles

are imported thence.

The Jews are the goldsmiths,

and, even in the interior and in the southern oases,

possess

the

art

of

making pretty

bracelets

and

ornaments.

The

inha])i tants of Zarsis are

renowned

for their

peculiar filigree work.

POSTSCRIPT
The
information
included

adjoined
in

regarding
of
the

the

number
tribes,

of souls

each

Berber
to

and of
after
press.

their domestic animals,

first

came

hand only

the
I

portion of

my
here.

book had gone to

This information
pains

therefore
collected

add
with

it

has been
the

great

throughout

Government of El Arad by the kindly help

of M. Destailleur, Controleur Civil to that Govern-

ment.

It
I

is

positively

reliable,

the

calculations

which

was able to make

in

person during

my
Only

stay in several of the villages, with the same view,

corresponding exactly to those in the table.

as an outsider

must aver that the number of

quite
correct,

horses

may

not

be

Imt for some

places appears

computed too
it is

low.

As

for instance

in Hadeij, where,

said,

none are to be found,

case.

which was certainly not the

explanation
the inquiry
a
desire
to

Possibly the

may

be that the sheikhs feared that

the

made by

Government

arose from
this

know how many mounted men

tribe could place in the field in time of war.

334

POSTSCRIPT

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