Direct Dyeing Process

Definition: Such type of dyes which have direct affinity towards the cellulosic fiber and can be directly applied for dyeing without any help of auxiliaries is called direct dyes. It is also known as substantive dyes due to its strong affinity towards cellulose fibers.
NH2 N=N NH2

SO3Na

SO3Na

Figure: Congo red (Direct Dye).

Properties of Direct Dyes: The properties of direct dyes are discussed below: i. Normally Direct dyes have high affinity towards cellulose fibers. Protein fibers can also be dyed with this dye. ii. Direct dyes are Sodium salt of carboxylic acid or Sodium salt of sulphonic acid. iii. Normally direct dyes contain Azo groups as Chromophore groups or coloring groups. iv. Synthetic fibers are not suitable for direct dyeing. v. Usually direct dyes dont need the assistance of other auxiliaries for dyeing except Sodium Chloride (NaCl) which helps the dyes to penetrate into the fabric. vi. The fibers suitable for direct dyeing are given below: All types of cellulosic fibers; Such as: Cotton Linen Viscose Flax, etc. vii. Direct dyes are comparatively cheap in price. viii. Direct dyes have a chemical structure similar to acid dyes, which is the reason for not dyeing protein fibers with this dyes. ix. Direct dyes can be applied from neutral to alkaline medium having pH (7-9). x. Direct dyes normally demonstrate poor wash fastness. xi. Direct Dyes are usually less resistant to light.

Trade Names of Various Direct Dyes: The trade names of various direct dyes used worldwide is given below:

Trade Name
Pergasol Diazol

Company
BASF ProChem

Mechanism of Direct Dyeing: The mechanism of dyeing cellulosic materials with direct dyes is discussed below: When cellulose fiber is immersed in a direct dye solution, dye molecules tend to move towards the fiber surface. This attraction between fiber and dye molecules can be increased by applying heat. As soon as the dye molecules come nearer to the fiber surface, it is attracted by the fibers producing a thin layer over the fiber surface. This phenomenon causes emptiness of dye molecules nearer the fiber surface which is filled up by the more dense area in the dye solution, as it still contains dye molecules. This continual attraction of dyes towards the fiber causes the dyeing of the fabric. As the dye molecules create a layer around the fiber surface, the dye molecules can get through to the inner fiber surface by diffusion. Dye diffusion mainly depends on two factors. Such are: a) Dye molecules and fiber surface. b) Attraction between dyes and fiber. Dyes are fixed to the fiber surface by weak hydrogen bond between the Amino group (-NH2) of dyes and (-OH) group of cellulose.

Alkaline Dye Liquor Cellulose Fabric Direct Dye Molecules Dye Bath Attracted dye molecules are coloring the fabric and producing vacuum space nearer the fabric.

Dye molecules travel from denser space to the vacuum space nearer the fabric surface to color the fabric.

Figure: Direct dye attraction towards fabric. Chemical Mechanism of Direct Dyeing: The chemical mechanism which occurs during dyeing is discussed below: As direct dyes are soluble in water, when dyes are mixed in water these are ionized like NaCl creating a dye anion (D-) and Sodium cation (Na+). Direct dyes are mainly produced from sulphonic acid groups which are converted to sodium salt in presence of Soda Ash (Na2CO3). Na2CO3 H2 O R-SO3- + Na+ R-SO3H R-SO3-Na Water Dye Sodium Sulphonic Soda Ash Sodium Acid Salt Anion Cation The Sulphonic acid is less soluble and has less affinity towards cellulose than that of Na- salt. So, as long as all the Sulphonic acids are converted to NaSalt than dye wastage will occur during dyeing and dye will not be properly fixed on the textile material. Some amount of Soda Ash is added to the direct dye solution for converting the remaining Sulphonic acid into Sodium salt.

Classification Of Direct Dyes: Direct Dyes can be classified into three types, such are; 1) Class-A: The dyes which have good leveling power and can produce even dyeing without the help of other dyeing auxiliaries, is called Class-A direct dyes or Self leveling dyes. It has poor light and wash fastness. Properties of Class-A Dye: 2) Class-B: The dyes which have poor leveling power and full exhaustion of color can only be achieved with the help of salt, is called Class-B direct dyes or Salt controllable direct dyes. Proper ratio of salt should always be maintained during dyeing to produce even dyeing. 3) Class-C: The dyes which show full exhaustion of color and even dyeing by applying temperature are called Class-C dyes or Temperature controllable direct dyes. These type of Direct dyes usually dont have any leveling power and are also highly sensitive to salts.

Stripping of Direct dyed fabrics: For stripping color from direct dyed fabrics it is suitable to treat the fabric at 1000C temperature with Sodium hypochlorite with Sodium hydrosulphite solution till the fabric color has been extracted.

Topping of Direct dyed fabrics: After dyeing the textile material if uneven dyeing or unwanted color has been produced on the fabric surface, then it is suitable to treat the fabric by stripping to lighten the shade and re-dye the fabric to achieve the required color.