History of Fashion II: Civilization in Nile

valley of Egypt

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Civilization in Nile valley of Egypt

Not long after the world's first civilization arose between the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers in Mesopotamia, civilization spread west to the Nile River valley of Egypt, reaching its greatest extent in the second millennium BC

Here, the first multinational state was born, the first writing system using hieroglyphs was invented, the concepts of kingship, religion and bureaucracy were developed. It began with the incipient unification of Nile Valley polities around 3150 BC, and is conventionally thought to have ended in 31 BC when the early Roman Empire conquered
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

 Egypt is located in northeastern Africa. The most important geographic feature is the Nile River itself. It was the lifeblood of ancient Egypt, and still makes life possible in the otherwise barren desert of Egypt. The longest river in the world (over 4,000 miles),

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Egypt is said to be a "gift of the Nile" because the river provided irrigation water, fertile soils due to annual floods, and easy transportation by boat.

Living beside the river Nile meant the Egyptians fared better than many other civilizations. The warm climate plus irrigation methods that utilized the Nile, enabled food to be grown relatively easily.
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Civilization in Nile valley of Egypt

The first inhabitants of this area were the Ethiopians, a black skinned people whose descendants entered the valley through Nubia following the Nile River. Thebes and Moroe were among the first cities established and became the religious centers of Upper Egypt Prior to the invasion of the Greeks in 325 B.C., Egypt was called Chem (kmt) or Ta-Merry. A very high level of civilization existed in Chem, the foundation of all of the arts and sciences of today were perfected at that time: astronomy, music, medicine, chemistry, geometry, calculus, art, rhetoric,

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Administration..
For administrative purposes, Egypt was divided up into provinces, or nomes. A governor, or nomarch, was at the head of each nome and was responsible to the pharaoh. Of special importance to the administration of the state was a vast bureaucracy of scribes who kept records of everything. Armed with the knowledge of writing and reading, they were highly regarded and considered themselves a superior class of men. Their high standard of living reflected their exalted status.
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Egyptian Social Structure

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Growing Flex

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

......Pharaohs were the kings of ancient Egypt who were worshipped as gods. Their wealth came from the bountiful agriculture made possible by the Nile.
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

The best-known pharaoh is Tutankhamen, or King Tut his tomb contained fantastic riches: over 5,000 objects in four rooms including a spectacular life-like mask of solid gold that covered the head and shoulders of his mummy. King Tut's tomb is one of the most impressive archeological discoveries of all time.

PHARAOHS CROWNED WITH SHEPHERDS CROOK AND FLAIL

The Middle Kingdom (2050-1653 B.C.) was characterized by a new concern of the pharaohs for the people. The primary duty of the pharaoh
was to uphold this order by maintaining the law and administering justice.

In the Old Kingdom, the pharaoh had been viewed as an inaccessible god-king. Now he was portrayed as the shepherd of his people.
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Sphinxes of Egypt
The sphinxes of Egypt are mythical creature, seen as guardians in Egyptian sculpture. Sphinxes are depicted in one of these three forms: Androsphinx - body of lion with head of person. Criosphinx - body of lion with head of ram. Hierocosphinx - body of lion with head of hawk.

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

EGYPTIAN BUILDING STYLE: Pyramids Were Pharaohs' Tombs, Their Homes For Eternity One of the SEVEN WONDERS OF THE WORLD, the pyramids defy 21st-century humans to explain their greatest secrets. How could a civilization that lacked bulldozers, forklifts, and trucks build such massive structures

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

The most famous burial tombs of ancient Egypt are the great pyramids at Giza near Cairo. These and other tombs were built to house the bodies of pharaohs for the afterlife.

Standing guard over the pyramids at Giza is the Sphinx, a great rock sculpture with the head of a pharaoh and the body of a lion. The age of pyramid building in Egypt lasted from about 2700 BC to 1000 BC.
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Temple of Egypt

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Religion was a central theme in ancient Egyptian culture and each town had its own deity. Initially, these deities were animals; later, they took on human appearances and behaviors. Seated here is Thoth, the god of learning and wisdom, carrying a scepter symbolizing magical power.

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Beliefs

Osiris

Isis

Set

Anubis

Horus

Hapi

Ptah

Hathor

Ra

Sobek

Thoth

Ma'at

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

 Legend claims that Osiris taught agriculture to the ancient Egyptians. After being murdered by his brother Seth, Osiris became even more influential as ruler over both the dead and the underworld. His his sister and wife, Isis, buried his scattered remains.

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Maat (or Maat) was the god of order, justice and truth. A woman wearing a crown surmounted by a huge ostrich feather. Anubis was the ancient Egyptian god associated with mummification and burial rituals;

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

A mural of Narmer depicts conquering Lower Egypt (c.a. 3100 B.C.)

A typical Naqada jar decorated with gazelles. (Predynastic Period)

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

The ancient Egyptians maintained a rich cultural heritage complete with feasts and festivals accompanied by music and dance

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

The ancient Egyptian writing system is known as "hieroglyphic" and is composed of some 500 symbols called hieroglyphs (pictographic writing systems).

This ancient Egyptian system of writing that used pictures to represent words or syllables. Hieroglyphics preserved records of ancient Egyptian culture for thousands of years. Egyptians carved hieroglyphics into stone, and they wrote on papyrus made from a reed plant that was pressed and dried to make a paper-like material. Paper gets its name from papyrus. Papyrus was rolled onto scrolls, which made written records lightweight, compact, and portable.
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

 Under the Old Kingdom free men and women went naked to the navel, and covered themselves from waist to knees with a short, tight skirt of white linen. Only mild clothing was necessary for the mild climate. Originally, all levels of society dressed the same but later it became indicator of social standing and wealth. Preferred material was white linen. Early linens were coarser than later fine linen fabrics.

Clothing

Later linen materials could be spun gossamer fine and made sheer, or semi sheer like fine lawn fabrics. Wool, cotton and leather was also used. Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore `

 In old kingdom men and women wore similar type of clothing. The loin cloth or Shenti The dress of the ancient Egyptians consisted not only of the clothes they wore but also of the elaborate costume jewelry that served to embellish the usually plain garments. Garments were draped around the body rather than tailored, and sewing was kept to a minimum. Colored or patterned cloth was rarely used.
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Womens clothing
Originally women wore simple linen cloth around the lower body and upper body remained uncovered. Members of upper class wore cape The Kalasiris appeared later was worn in many different ways. Was up to calf or ankle length. Close fitting garment leaving breast uncovered was secured by broad bands richly decorated.
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Kalasiris pleated and tight

Prior to the New Kingdom, women wore simple sheath dresses falling from the breast to just above the ankle. New Kingdom dresses became much more elegant. The sheath dress was worn, but only as an undergarment. A heavily pleated fringed robe was worn on top.

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Women costume: kalasiris: Decoration in Egyptian dress was mostly on the collar

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

CLEOPATRA became the most famous of Egypt's female leaders. She was extremely intelligent, and ambitious and spoke several languages she even studied astronomy. At 18, she became queen of Egypt.

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Elaborate gown; jewelry; plaited wig, hair ornaments and scented cone.

Except for a long, braided side lock an integral part of the Egyptian costume was a wig or a hairpiece attached to the natural hair. Because of the intense heat, many Egyptians shaved their heads or cut their hair very short, although some kept their hair very long and elaborately coiffed.
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Men in old kingdom: The basic dress for men was a kilt ( shenti), which fell just above the knee. It was made from a rectangular piece of linen wrapped around the body and tied at the waist with a knot or fastened with a buckle.

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Mens clothing

In the New Kingdom men usually wore a short under kilt over which hung a long, heavily pleated skirt that was knotted at the hips with a fringed sash. Also worn was a short, wide cape covering the upper part of the body and hanging from the shoulders.
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Peasant class
Tomb relief depicts workers plowing the fields, harvesting the crops, and threshing the grain under the direction of an overseer wearing simple linen Shenti Servants and peasants limited their everyday wardrobe to a loin-cloth.

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Rich Egyptian men were able to afford the best quality linen which was very fine and almost see-through. Rich Egyptian men also wore as much jewellery as they could afford and decorated their clothes. They also wore headdresses for special occasions.

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

When wealth increased, clothing increased; the Middle Kingdom added a second and larger skirt over the first, and the Empire added a covering for the breast, with now and then a cape.

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Warrior King Costumes

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Ancient Egyptian King, Egyptian Commoners

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

The pharaoh wore many different headdresses, depending on what occasion it was. The Pharaoh was usually depicted wearing symbols of royalty and power Sphinx head dress -KHAT

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

The pharaoh wore several different headdresses, such as:

Red crown The Red Crown symbolised the pharaoh's control over Lower Egypt, and was worn on occasions involving Lower Egypt only.

White crown The White Crown symbolised the pharaoh's control over Upper Egypt,and was worn on occasions involving Upper Egypt only.

Double crown The Double Crown was a combination of the Red Crown of Lower Egypt and the White Crown of Upper Egypt. It symbolised the joining of the two lands, and the pharaoh's control over the two lands.
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Blue crown The Blue Crown (the Khepresh) was a blue cloth or leather headdress decorated with bronze or gold discs. The Blue Crown was worn in battles, as well as on ceremonial occasions.

Nemes Headdress The Nemes Headdress was a blue and gold striped head cloth Atef crown The Atef Crown was a white headdress decorated with ostrich feathers. It was worn during some religious rituals.

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Noblewoman, Egyptian Queen/Egyptian Court Official, Egyptian King, Fanbearer

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Ancient Egyptian Soldiers, Egyptian King in Battle Attire, Charioteer

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Although garments were mostly white, there was no lack of color. Men and women wore decorative collars-tightly hued bands made of embroidered materials and beads and set around the neck and shoulders on the bare skin or on top of a white cape or gown.

In the New Kingdom, embroidery, influenced by Syrian culture, made its debut. A certain group of decorative motifs show up in embroidery on collars, belts and sashes--the lotus flower, papyrus bundle, birds in flight and many geometric forms. Children and those participating in rigorous exercise frequently wore no clothes at all. Both boys' and girls' heads were usually shaved

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

 Both men and women wore jewelry such as earrings, bracelets, anklets, rings, and beaded necklaces. They incorporated into their jewelry many minerals including amethyst, garnet, jasper, onyx, turquoise, and lapis lazuli, as well as copper, gold, and shells. Because the Egyptians were very superstitious, frequently their jewelry contained amulets.

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Cosmetics were not only an important part of Egyptian dress but also a matter of personal hygiene and health. Many items related to cosmetics have been found in tombs and are illustrated in tomb paintings.

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

To color their cheeks, the Egyptians used red ocher mixed with a base of fat or gum resin; ocher may have also been used as lipstick. Henna, a reddish-brown dye, was certainly used to color hair and perhaps also the palms of the hands, soles of the feet, and nails.

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

 Oils and creams were of vital importance against the hot Egyptian sun and dry winds. Eye paint, both green and black, is probably the most characteristic of the Egyptian cosmetics. The green pigment was malachite, an oxide of copper. The black paint, called kohl, was a sulfate of lead and, in the late Middle and New Kingdoms, was soot. Kohl was usually kept in a small pot that had a flat bottom, wide rim, tiny mouth, and a flat, disk-shaped lid. Many kohl pots have been found in Egyptian tombs.

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

 Although the Egyptians spent much of their time barefoot, both men and women sometimes wore sandals made from papyrus, palm leaves, or leather fastened by leather thongs. The standard sandal had a thong that passed between the first and second toes and attached to a bar that went across the instep. Sandals were always removed in the presence of a superior.
Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

 The civilization of ancient Egypt entered a period of slow, steady decline, during which Egypt was conquered by a succession of foreign adversaries. The days of Egyptian empire were ended, and the New Kingdom expired with the end of the twentieth dynasty in 1085 B.C. For the next thousand years, despite periodic revivals of strength, Egypt was dominated by Libyans, Nubians, Persians, and Macedonians. The power of the pharaohs officially ended in 31 BC when the early Roman Empire conquered Egypt and made it a province.

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Flounces, embroideries and a thousand frills appeared, and fashion entered like a serpent to disturb the paradise of primitive nudity.

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore

Bibliography
Baines, John, and Jaromir Malek. Atlas of Ancient Egypt. New York: Facts on File, 1987. (Adult) James, T.G.H.An Introduction to Ancient Egypt. NewYork: Harper & Row, 1979. (Grade 7-adult) Kristensen, Preben, and Fiona Cameron. We Live in Egypt. New York: Bookwright Press, 1987. (Grades 3-6) Percefull, Aaron W. The Nile. New York: Franklin Watts, 1984. (Grade 6-adult)

Dr. Nidhi L Sharda, Associate Professor, NIFT, Bangalore