Contents

13
The Authors 21
Getting Started 26
Itineraries 31
Snapshots 37
Albania 51
Highlights 52
Itineraries 52
Climate & When To Go 52
History 52
People 56
Religion 56
Arts 56
Environment 57
Food & Drink 58
TIRANA 59
Orientation 59
Information 59
Dangers & Annoyances 61
Sights 61
Walking Tour:
Postcommunist Tirana 62
Sleeping 62
Eating 63
Drinking 64
Entertainment 64
Shopping 64
Getting There & Away 64
Getting Around 65
Around Tirana 65
NORTHERN ALBANIA 65
Shkodra 66
CENTRAL ALBANIA 67
Kruja 67
Durrs 68
Apollonia 70
Berat 70
SOUTHERN ALBANIA 72
Vlora 72
Ionian Coast 73
Saranda 74
Around Saranda 74
ALBANIA DIRECTORY 75
Accommodation 75
Activities 76
Books 76
Business Hours 76
Courses 76
Dangers & Annoyances 76
Disabled Travellers 77
Embassies & Consulates 77
Gay & Lesbian
Travellers 77
Holidays 77
Language 78
Media 78
Money 78
Post 79
Responsible Travel 79
Telephone & Fax 79
Visas 79
Women Travellers 80
TRANSPORT IN
ALBANIA 80
Getting There & Away 80
Getting Around 81
Bosnia &
Hercegovina 83
Highlights 84
Itineraries 84
Climate & When To Go 84
History 85
People 88
Religion 88
Arts 88
Environment 89
Food & Drink 89
SARAJEVO 90
History 90
Orientation 91
Information 91
Sights 93
Activities 95
Tours 95
Festivals & Events 95
Sleeping 95
Eating 96
Drinking 98
Entertainment 98
Shopping 99
Getting There &
Away 99
Getting Around 99
Around Sarajevo 99
Lonely Planet Publications
14 C O N T E N T S
SOUTHERN BOSNIA &
HERCEGOVINA 100
Mostar 100
Around Mostar 105
Meugorje 105
CENTRAL & NORTHERN
BOSNIA & HERCEGOVINA 107
Travnik 107
Jajce 108
Banja Luka 109
Biha 110
BOSNIA & HERCEGOVINA
DIRECTORY 112
Accommodation 112
Activities 112
Books 112
Business Hours 112
Dangers & Annoyances 112
Disabled Travellers 112
Embassies & Consulates 113
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 113
Holidays 113
Internet Resources 113
Language 113
Maps 114
Money 114
Post 114
Telephone 114
Visas 114
TRANSPORT IN BOSNIA &
HERCEGOVINA 114
Getting There & Away 114
Getting Around 115
Croatia 117
Highlights 120
Itineraries 120
Climate & When To Go 120
History 120
People 123
Religion 123
Arts 123
Environment 124
Food & Drink 125
ZAGREB 126
History 126
Orientation 126
Information 127
Sights 130
Tours 131
Festivals & Events 131
Sleeping 131
Eating 132
Drinking 133
Entertainment 133
Shopping 134
Getting There & Away 134
Getting Around 135
ISTRIA 135
Pore 135
Rovinj 137
Pula 139
GULF OF KVARNER 142
Rijeka 142
Opatija 144
Krk Island 145
DALMATIA 146
Zadar 146
Split 150
Solin (Salona) 155
Trogir 156
Hvar Island 156
Korula Island 158
Orebi 160
Mljet Island 160
Dubrovnik 161
CROATIA DIRECTORY 167
Accommodation 167
Activities 168
Books 169
Business Hours 169
Customs 169
Disabled Travellers 169
Embassies & Consulates 169
Festivals & Events 170
Holidays 170
Internet Resources 170
Media 170
Money 171
Post 171
Telephone 171
Tourist Information 171
Tours 172
Visas 172
TRANSPORT IN CROATIA 172
Getting There & Away 172
Getting Around 174
Cyprus 177
Itineraries 178
Climate & When To Go 178
History 178
People 180
Religion 180
Arts 180
Environment 180
Food & Drink 180
THE REPUBLIC OF CYPRUS 181
Lefkosia (Leukwsia, Nicosia) 181
Larnaka 184
Agia Napa (Ayia Napa) 185
Lemesos (Lemesos,
Limassol) 186
Troodos Massif (Troodos) 187
Pafos 188
Polis 189
NORTH CYPRUS 189
LefkoA (Nicosia) 190
Girne (Kyrenia) 191
Gazimausa (Famagusta,
Ammachoustos) 192
Karpas Peninsula 193
Gzelyurt (Morfou) 194
CYPRUS DIRECTORY 194
Accommodation 194
Activities 194
Books 194
Business Hours 194
Children 194
Customs 194
Electricity 194
Embassies & Consulates 194
Festivals & Events 195
Holidays 195
Internet Resources 195
Media 195
Money 196
Telephone 196
Tourist Information 196
Visas 196
TRANSPORT IN CYPRUS 196
Getting There & Away 196
Getting Around 197
France 199
Itineraries 200
Climate & When To Go 200
History 200
People 203
Religion 203
Arts 204
Environment 205
Food & Drink 206
PARIS 207
History 207
Orientation 207
Information 207
Dangers & Annoyances 210
Sights 210
Tours 217
Sleeping 217
Eating 221
Drinking 223
C O N T E N T S 15
Entertainment 223
Shopping 224
Getting There & Away 225
Getting Around 225
AROUND PARIS 228
Disneyland Paris 228
Versailles 228
Chartres 229
CHAMPAGNE 230
Reims 230
pernay 231
Troyes 232
ALSACE & LORRAINE 233
Strasbourg 233
Massif Des Vosges 238
Nancy 238
NORTHERN FRANCE 239
Lille 239
Calais 241
Dunkirk 242
Battle Of The Somme
Memorials 243
NORMANDY 243
Rouen 243
Bayeux 245
D-Day Beaches 247
Mont St-Michel 248
BRITTANY 249
Quimper 249
Carnac 250
St-Malo 251
Around St-Malo 253
THE LOIRE 254
Blois 254
Around Blois 256
Tours 257
Around Tours 259
Amboise 260
SOUTHWESTERN
FRANCE 261
Nantes 261
Poitiers 263
Around Poitiers 264
La Rochelle 264
Bordeaux 266
Arcachon 269
Bayonne 270
Biarritz 271
Lourdes 272
THE DORDOGNE 273
Sarlat-La-Canda 274
Les Eyzies De Tayac 274
Montignac 274
QUERCY 275
Cahors 275
BURGUNDY &
THE RHNE 276
Dijon 276
Cte Dor Vineyards 279
Beaune 280
Lyon 281
THE FRENCH ALPS 285
Chamonix 285
Annecy 288
Grenoble 291
THE JURA 294
Besanon 294
Around Besanon 296
Parc Naturel Rgional
DuHaut-Jura 296
PROVENCE 296
Marseille 296
Aix-En-Provence 300
Avignon 301
Around Avignon 304
CTE DAZUR 304
Nice 305
Cannes 310
St-Tropez 313
Menton 314
MONACO 314
Orientation 315
Information 316
Sights & Activities 316
Festivals & Events 316
Sleeping 316
Eating 316
Getting There & Away 317
LANGUEDOC-
ROUSSILLON 317
Carcassonne 317
Nmes 318
Around Nmes 319
CORSICA 319
Bastia 319
Calvi 321
Les Calanques 322
Ajaccio 322
Bonifacio 324
FRANCE DIRECTORY 325
Accommodation 325
Activities 326
Business Hours 327
Embassies & Consulates 327
Festivals & Events 328
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 328
Holidays 328
Legal Matters 328
Money 328
Post 329
Telephone 329
Visas 329
TRANSPORT IN FRANCE 330
Getting There & Away 330
Getting Around 332
Greece 335
Highlights 336
Itineraries 336
History 336
People 340
Sport 340
Religion 340
Arts 340
Environment 341
Food & Drink 342
ATHENS 343
Orientation 343
Information 345
Dangers & Annoyances 346
Sights 346
Festivals & Events 348
Sleeping 348
Eating 349
Drinking 350
Entertainment 351
Shopping 352
Getting There & Away 353
Getting Around 354
Around Athens 354
THE PELOPONNESE 356
Patra 356
DiakoftoKalavryta
Railway 357
Corinth 357
Ancient Corinth &
Acrocorinth 358
Nafplio 358
Epidavros 359
Mycenae 359
Sparta 359
Mystras 360
Gefyra & Monemvasia 360
Gythio 360
The Mani 361
Olympia 362
CENTRAL GREECE 362
Delphi 362
Meteora 363
NORTHERN GREECE 364
Igoumenitsa 364
Ioannina 364
Zagoria Villages &
Vikos Gorge 365
16 C O N T E N T S
Thessaloniki 365
Mt Olympus 367
Halkidiki 368
Alexandroupolis 368
SARONIC GULF ISLANDS 368
Aegina 369
Hydra 369
Spetses 369
CYCLADES 370
Mykonos 370
Delos 372
Paros 372
Naxos 374
Ios 376
Santorini (Thira) 378
CRETE 380
Iraklio 381
Knossos 383
Phaestos &
Other Minoan Sites 383
Rethymno 383
Hania 384
Samaria Gorge 386
Paleohora &
The Southwest Coast 386
Lasithi Plateau 387
Agios Nikolaos 388
Sitia 388
DODECANESE 389
Rhodes 389
Karpathos 392
Symi 393
Kos 393
Patmos 394
NORTHEASTERN
AEGEAN ISLANDS 395
Samos 395
Chios 397
Lesvos (Mytilini) 398
SPORADES 400
Skiathos 401
Skopelos 402
Alonnisos 402
IONIAN ISLANDS 403
Corfu 403
Lefkada 405
Ithaki 406
Kefallonia 406
Zakynthos 407
GREECE DIRECTORY 408
Accommodation 408
Activities 408
Business Hours 409
Children 409
Customs 409
Dangers & Annoyances 409
Embassies & Consulates 409
Festivals & Events 410
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 411
Holidays 411
Internet Access 411
Internet Resources 411
Language 411
Money 411
Post 412
Solo Travellers 412
Telephone 412
Tourist Information 412
Travellers With
Disabilities 413
Visas 413
TRANSPORT IN GREECE 413
Getting There & Away 413
Getting Around 415
Italy 419
Itineraries 420
Climate & When To Go 420
History 420
People 422
Religion 422
Arts 422
Environment 424
Food & Drink 425
ROME 426
History 426
Orientation 426
Information 426
Sights & Activities 427
Eating 442
Drinking 444
Entertainment 445
Shopping 446
Getting There & Away 446
Getting Around 447
Around Rome 448
NORTHERN ITALY 450
Genoa 450
Riviera Di Levante 452
Turin 453
Milan 455
Mantua 459
Verona 460
Padua 461
Venice 462
Ferrara 472
Bologna 473
Ravenna 476
THE DOLOMITES 477
Cortina Dampezzo 478
Canazei 478
Val Gardena 478
San Martino Di Castrozza 479
TUSCANY 479
Florence 479
Pisa 487
Siena 488
San Gimignano 491
UMBRIA & LE MARCHE 491
Perugia 491
Assisi 494
Ancona 494
Urbino 495
SOUTHERN ITALY 495
Naples 496
Around Naples 502
Capri 502
Sorrento 504
Amalfi Coast 505
Matera 507
Brindisi 508
Lecce 509
SICILY 510
Palermo 511
Aeolian Islands 514
Taormina 516
Mt Etna 516
Syracuse 517
Agrigento 518
SARDINIA 519
Cagliari 520
Cala Gonone 522
Alghero 523
ITALY DIRECTORY 524
Accommodation 524
Activities 525
Books 526
Business Hours 526
Dangers & Annoyances 526
Embassies & Consulates 526
Festivals & Events 527
Holidays 527
Internet Resources 527
Money 528
Post 528
Telephone 528
Travellers With
Disabilities 529
Visas 529
TRANSPORT IN ITALY 529
Getting There & Away 529
Getting Around 531
C O N T E N T S 17
Malta 533
Highlights 534
Itineraries 534
Climate & When To Go 534
History 534
People 536
Religion 536
Arts 536
Environment 536
Food & Drink 536
VALLETTA 537
Orientation 537
Information 537
Sights & Activities 537
Sleeping 539
Eating 539
Drinking & Entertainment 540
Getting There & Away 540
Around Valletta 540
AROUND MALTA 540
Sliema, St Julians & Paceville 540
Mdina & Rabat 543
Southwest Coast 544
Southeast Coast 544
North Coast 544
GOZO 544
Victoria (Rabat) 545
Marsalforn 545
Xagra 546
Xlendi 546
COMINO 546
MALTA DIRECTORY 546
Accommodation 546
Activities 547
Business Hours 547
Customs 547
Electricity 547
Embassies & Consulates 547
Festivals & Events 548
Holidays 548
Internet Access 548
Internet Resources 548
Money 548
Telephone 548
Tourist Information 548
Visas 548
TRANSPORT IN MALTA 549
Getting There & Away 549
Getting Around 550
Montenegro 551
Itineraries 552
Climate & When To Go 552
History 552
People 554
Religion 554
Arts 554
Environment 554
Food & Drink 554
PODGORICA 555
Orientation 555
Information 555
Sleeping & Eating 555
Getting There & Away 555
Getting Around 555
Around Podgorica 555
COASTAL MONTENEGRO 556
Bar 556
Ulcinj 557
Budva 558
Kotor 559
Around Kotor 561
Cetinje 561
Around Cetinje 562
Herceg Novi 562
NORTHERN
MONTENEGRO 562
Ostrog Monastery 562
Durmitor National Park 562
MONTENEGRO
DIRECTORY 564
Accommodation 564
Activities 564
Books 564
Business Hours 564
Dangers & Annoyances 564
Embassies & Consulates 564
Holidays 565
Internet Resources 565
Money 565
Post 565
Telephone 565
Visas 565
Women Travellers 565
TRANSPORT IN
MONTENEGRO 565
Getting There & Away 565
Getting Around 566
Morocco 567
Itineraries 568
Climate & When To Go 568
History 568
People 570
Religion 570
Arts 570
Environment 570
Food & Drink 571
MEDITERRANEAN
COAST & THE RIF 571
Tangier 571
Around Tangier 576
Ceuta (Sebta) 576
Tetouan 577
Chefchaouen 579
ATLANTIC COAST 582
Asilah 582
Rabat 583
Around Rabat 587
Casablanca 587
Essaouira 591
IMPERIAL CITIES 592
Marrakesh 592
Fs 597
Mekns 603
Around Mekns 604
MOROCCO DIRECTORY 604
Accommodation 604
Activities 604
Business Hours 613
Dangers & Annoyances 613
Embassies & Consulates 613
Festivals & Events 613
Holidays 613
Internet Resources 614
Money 614
Post 614
Telephone 614
Visas 614
Volunteering 615
Women Travellers 615
TRANSPORT IN
MOROCCO 615
Getting There & Away 615
Getting Around 616
Portugal 619
Highlights 620
Itineraries 620
History 620
People 622
Religion 622
Arts 622
Environment 622
Food & Drink 623
LISBON 623
Orientation 626
Information 626
Sights 627
Tours 629
Festivals & Events 629
18 C O N T E N T S
Sleeping 629
Eating 630
Drinking 632
Entertainment 632
Shopping 633
Getting There & Away 633
Getting Around 634
Around Lisbon 634
THE ALGARVE 637
Faro 637
Tavira 638
Lagos 639
Monchique 640
Silves 640
Sagres 640
CENTRAL PORTUGAL 641
vora 641
Monsaraz 643
Estremoz 643
Castelo De Vide & Marvo 643
bidos 644
Nazar 644
Tomar 645
Coimbra 645
Luso & The Buaco Forest 647
Serra Da Estrela 647
THE NORTH 648
Porto 648
Along The Douro 653
Viana Do Castelo 653
Braga 653
Parque Nacional Da
Peneda-Gers 654
PORTUGAL DIRECTORY 655
Accommodation 655
Activities 656
Business Hours 656
Embassies & Consulates 656
Festivals & Events 657
Holidays 657
Money 657
Post 657
Telephone 657
Visas 657
TRANSPORT IN
PORTUGAL 657
Getting There & Away 657
Getting Around 659
Slovenia 661
Itineraries 662
Climate & When To Go 662
People 664
Arts 664
Environment 665
Food & Drink 665
LJUBLJANA 665
History 665
Orientation 668
Information 669
Sights 669
Tours 671
Sleeping 671
Eating 672
Drinking 673
Entertainment 674
Getting There & Away 675
Getting Around 675
JULIAN ALPS 676
Kranj 676
Bled 676
Bohinj 679
Kranjska Gora 680
Soa Valley 681
KARST & COAST 683
Postojna 683
kocjan Caves 684
Lipica 684
Koper 685
Izola 687
Piran 687
Portoro 690
SLOVENIA DIRECTORY 691
Accommodation 691
Activities 691
Business Hours 692
Embassies & Consulates 692
Festivals & Events 692
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 693
Holidays 693
Internet Access 693
Internet Resources 693
Language 693
Money 693
Post 693
Telephone 693
Toilets 694
Tourist Information 694
Visas 694
Women Travellers 694
TRANSPORT IN SLOVENIA 694
Getting There & Away 694
Getting Around 695
Spain 697
Highlights 698
Itineraries 698
Climate & When To Go 698
History 698
People 701
Religion 701
Arts 701
Environment 702
Food & Drink 702
MADRID 703
History 704
Orientation 704
Information 704
Dangers & Annoyances 705
Sights & Activities 705
Courses 711
Tours 711
Festivals & Events 711
Sleeping 712
Eating 713
Drinking 715
Entertainment 717
Shopping 719
Getting There & Away 719
Getting Around 720
Around Madrid 721
CASTILLA Y LEN 721
vila 721
Salamanca 722
Segovia 724
Len 726
Burgos 728
CASTILLA-LA MANCHA 729
Toledo 729
Cuenca 732
CATALONIA 733
Barcelona 733
Monestir De Montserrat 745
Girona 746
The Costa Brava 747
Tarragona 748
ARAGN, BASQUE
COUNTRY & NAVARRA 750
Zaragoza 750
Aragn 752
San Sebastin 752
Bilbao 756
Pamplona 757
CANTABRIA,
ASTURIAS & GALICIA 758
Santander 758
Around Santander 759
La Corua 759
Santiago De Compostela 760
VALENCIA & MURCIA 762
Valencia 762
Alicante 765
Costa Blanca 768
C O N T E N T S 19
Murcia & The Costa Calda 768
BALEARIC ISLANDS 769
Mallorca 770
Ibiza 773
Menorca 776
ANDALUCA 777
Seville 778
Crdoba 783
Granada 786
Costa De Almera 789
Mlaga 790
Ronda 793
Algeciras 794
Cdiz 794
Tarifa 795
GIBRALTAR 796
EXTREMADURA 797
Trujillo 797
Cceres 798
Mrida 799
SPAIN DIRECTORY 800
Accommodation 800
Activities 800
Business Hours 801
Courses 801
Dangers & Annoyances 801
Embassies & Consulates 802
Festivals & Events 802
Holidays 802
Language 803
Legal Matters 803
Maps 803
Media 803
Money 803
Post 804
Telephone 804
Time 804
Tourist Information 804
Visas 805
Work 805
TRANSPORT IN SPAIN 805
Getting There & Away 805
Getting Around 806
Turkey 809
Highlights 810
Itineraries 810
Climate & When To Go 810
History 810
People 813
Religion 814
Arts 814
Sport 814
Environment 814
Food & Drink 815
STANBUL 815
History 815
Orientation 816
Information 816
Dangers & Annoyances 817
Sights & Activities 817
Sleeping 822
Eating 822
Drinking 823
Entertainment 823
Getting There & Away 823
Getting Around 824
AROUND STANBUL 824
Edirne 824
Bursa 825
THE AEGEAN COAST 825
Gallipoli 826
anakkale 826
Troy 827
Behramkale & Assos 827
Bergama (Pergamum) 827
zmir 828
eme 829
Seluk 829
Kuadasi 831
Pamukkale 831
Bodrum 832
THE MEDITERRANEAN
COAST 833
Marmaris 834
Dalyan 835
Fethiye 835
Patara 836
Ka 837
Olympos & Chimaera 838
Antalya 838
Around Antalya 840
Alanya 841
Anamur 841
Silifke 842
Kizkalesi 842
Tarsus 842
Adana 842
Antakya (Hatay) 842
CENTRAL ANATOLIA 843
Ankara 843
Safranbolu 845
Konya 846
CAPPADOCIA 846
Nevehir 847
Greme 847
rgp 848
EASTERN TURKEY 849
Kars 849
Mt Nemrut National Park 849
Van 850
TURKEY DIRECTORY 850
Accommodation 850
Activities 850
Business Hours 851
Courses 851
Customs 851
Dangers & Annoyances 851
Embassies & Consulates 851
Festivals & Events 852
Gay & Lesbian
Travellers 852
Holidays 852
Internet Access 852
Internet Resources 852
Money 852
Post 852
Telephone 852
Tourist Information 853
Tours 853
Travellers With Disabilities 853
Visas 853
Women Travellers 853
Work 853
TRANSPORT IN TURKEY 854
Getting There & Away 854
Getting Around 854
Regional Directory 857
Accommodation 857
Activities 860
Business Hours 862
Children 862
Climate Charts 863
Courses 864
Customs 864
Dangers & Annoyances 864
Discount Cards 866
Electricity 866
Embassies & Consulates 867
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 867
Holidays 867
Insurance 868
Internet Access 868
Legal Matters 868
Maps 869
Money 869
Photography & Dvds 871
Post 871
Solo Travellers 872
Telephone & Fax 872
Time 873
Toilets 873
20 C O N T E N T S
Tourist Information 873
Tours 873
Travelling With Disabilities 874
Visas 874
Women Travellers 875
Work 875
Transport in
Mediterranean
Europe 877
GETTING THERE & AWAY 877
Entry Requirements 877
Air 877
Land 881
Sea 882
GETTING AROUND 883
Air 883
Bicycle 884
Boat 884
Bus 885
Car & Motorcycle 885
Hitching 888
Local Transport 889
Train 889
Health 892
BEFORE YOU GO 892
Insurance 892
Recommended
Vaccinations 892
Internet Resources 892
Further Reading 892
IN TRANSIT 893
Deep Vein Thrombosis
(DVT) 893
IN MEDITERRANEAN
EUROPE 893
Availability Of Health
Care 893
Hercegovina
Bosnia &
p84
p569
Morocco
p621
Portugal
p699
Spain
p201
France
p421
Italy
p535
Malta
p338-9
Greece
p179
Cyprus
p812-3
Turkey
p53
Albania
p553
Montenegro
pp118-9
Croatia p663
Slovenia
Travellers Diarrhoea 893
Environmental Hazards 893
Travelling With
Children 894
Womens Health 894
Sexual Health 894
Language 895
Behind The Scenes 913
Index 919
World Time Zones 930
Map Legend 932
Regional Map Contents