S U M M E R

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Mud Buddy
Celebrating summer with fall colors.

Hottie Cover
$129
How often did you race to your favorite duck hunting hole, scramble to get set up and then wait for the engine to cool to finish hiding your rig. You didnt dare toss your expensive travel cover over the engine. Wet grass and reeds would do but they create a smoldering mess.

Super Longtail
Hang on to your hat.
Is it practical and economical to add an electric clutch neutral and belt drive to a longtail? Traditional longtail users often asked the question, thinking a larger propeller and more power would make pushing large boats easier. We knew it could be done, but we also thought it would be expensive and the power might be a handful. With that in mind we took the challenge and designed an easy to run longtail that matches the price needs of todays market. Wasnt easy, but its done. Summer 2011

Inside this issue:

Micah Triplett Give your engine some love. P 2. LarryD - Larry Dobbe
I soon learned that I had a skill for running into sand bars and stumps. P 4.

Glenn Foreman Innovation from our garage to yours. P 5. Deadbird Gary Kutak Boat and trailer service.
P 6.

Gun Doc Don Berry Corrosion is your number one enemy. P 7. Rick McCurley Summertime duck scouting tips. P 12.

The Hotti motor cover is lined with silicone impregnated fiberglass cloth that can take the heat as much as 800 degrees claims the manufacturer. But we have found that even a 1000-degree muffler can be covered within seconds after turning the engine off. However, we have learned that it is best to wait 60 to 90 seconds to ensure the trapped heat does not cook your wiring and rubber components. The Hotti cover camo choices are Nat Gear, Max-4 and Duck Blind. Duck blind seems to be the most popular. The grassing straps make it easy to add natural grass and reeds. The weighted cover needs no tie down straps while hunting and the handle is fully covered.

MUD BUDDY NEWS

SUMMER 2011

Give your engine some love.

adjust your valves
By Micah Triplett

Take care of your engine and you can count on your mud motor for many years of hard use. These engines are air-cooled and rely on free flowing air and oil to keep them at proper running temperature. You should always keep an eye on your oil level. When low you will cause premature wear from heat and lack of lubrication. If you over fill the engine you will cause blow by which can cause spark plug fowling and will lead to extensive carbon build up in your combustion chamber and around the valve heads. Change your oil at ten hours when breaking in a new engine. And I recommend other changes at twenty five to forty hours. Change every season prior to storage regardless of time. A by-product of combustion is acid, which deposits in the oil. If left in the oil over long periods of storage, pitting can occur on engine parts. Run a good grade of 10W30. I prefer Valvoline. Your fuel system is very important to your engine. Make sure there no air leaks, an air leak will cause an engine to run in a lean condition, which will cause your engine to run very hot, and you will notice power loss and hard starting. Check the intake connections and seals. Run premium fuel with little or no ethanol. If you run your fuel tank more than six feet from the engine make sure you run a 5/16 in diameter fuel line. You can use a primer bulb but quick disconnects reduce fuel flow and your engine can cut out at high speeds. Your fuel tanks needs to vent - make sure your vent is all the way open when running your engine. Water in the fuel system will cause poor running condition.
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If you live in a high humidity area or in radical changes of weather use a heat product with alcohol to dissipate water in the fuel. When running your engine in 35F or colder run a cold weather fuel treatment, change your fuel filter every fifty hours or once every year. Spark plugs are one of most neglected components of an engine. They can fowl with time so you should always keep a set in your boat toolbox. Change your spark plugs every fifty hours and gap them at .032 for a proper burn. Adjusting your valves is very important. A new engine should be adjusted at ten hours then every fifty hours. You can easily adjust your engine valves. Begin with a cold engine. Facing the engine, remove the right cylinder head spark plug and disconnect the kill switch. Turn the engine on and engage the electric clutch. Rotate the prop (wear gloves since worn props are very sharp) until the piston gets to the top dead center on the compression stroke. Your valves will be ready to set at this point. Remove the valve cover and adjust the valves. When on the compression stroke both rocker arms are in the upward position, valves are closed and there should be a little bit of slack on both of them. If one or both are tight you aren't on the compression stroke. Set valve clearance at .006 to .008. Loosen adjuster nut on rocker arm, slide gauge in between roller and valve stem. Turn screw in until you have tension on the feeler gauge and lock the adjuster nut down. Adjust intake and exhaust the same, once you have that side set your ready to adjust the other cylinder.

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MUD BUDDY NEWS

SUMMER 2011

BPS Mufflers
Add style and performance to your machine.
Backwater Performance Systems will offer three great mufflers for 2011. All three mufflers have three things in common quality stainless construction, superior design, and in one squeeze you will be hooked. New Q Muffler Customers are hard to please, and when it comes to mufflers they are even tougher. They want a muffler that is quiet yet offer more power through the power band. New for 2011 is the new BPS Quiet muffler also known as the Q. This stainless high quality muffler delivers exceptional bolt on performance for you large block Vanguard and 27 Kohler motors.

Twin BPS Made exclusively for the Mud Buddy HD models, these twin mufflers double your fun. They are a little louder than the twin mufflers. The tig hand quality welding and style is unmatched. The twins are easy to install and come compete with all mounting hardware. Single Crossover This performance exhaust is designed for maximum horsepower. The Single Crossover has wrap around contoured pipes that help tune your exhaust. The Single Crossover comes with a silencer insert that can be removed when you need a little extra boost.

Any Muffler $419 limited time offer.

Single Mikuni Carb Kit

The single most powerful bolt on power package. No doubt, if you want to bolt on a significant improvement to your mud motors hole shots, mid and top end performance, you will love the BPS Mikuni 42mm carb kit. The kit contains everything you need to quickly convert your motor to a lean, mean 3 smooth running machine. Every part of this kit is high quality, to include a custom cast intake manifold, performance air filter, governor lock, throttle cable, intake flange, and mounting hardware. Step by step photo instruction are included.

From $659

MUD BUDDY NEWS

SUMMER 2011

Regional Roundup - Wisconsin

Larry Dobbe (LarryD)

I have taken my rigs on trips to the Dakotas and down to the marshes in Illinois. Places that I would never have even considered before this quest began.

I moved to the LaCrosse WI area in 2000 and built a home right off the Mississippi River. When duck season opened I quickly ran out and bought a flat bottom boat with a 40 horse Evinrude. I soon learned that I had a skill for running into sand bars and stumps more often than not. In the meantime there were these guys with lawn mower engine contraptions that could motor through skinny water, mud and weeds like there was no tomorrow and I was hooked. A friend from work had a 14-foot boat with a 16 horse long tail, after 1 trip I had to have the biggest model made at the time, a 29 Kawasaki longtail and thus began my own mud motor extravaganza. I would go for hours scouting and learning my way around Pools 7, 8 and 9 of the Upper Mississippi Fish and Wildlife Refuge bordered by WI, MN and Iowa. The very next year Mud Buddy came out with their first Hyperdrive and I had to have one, so I got the biggest model made - a 31 Briggs. I was in heaven and the ease of operation and greater operating speed opened new areas to me until a 35 hp model was released. I was hooked on the need for speed and power began. My addiction was filled by doing demonstrations, surfing the Internet for information on bigger and better models and helping a local dealer. Before I knew it I had three different 45s and serial number three 6000. I have owned an Excel, a Geaux and a Gator Trax boats including a Gator Hyde. During the course of doing the demonstrations and shows I met a lot of likeminded mud motor enthusiasts and have seen many new areas of WI like Horicon Marsh and the backwaters surrounding the Mead Wildlife area. I have taken my rigs on trips to the Dakotas and
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I have seen some of the most beautiful and serene backwater areas that a person cannot even imagine in the Midwest. The curiosity of what was around the next bend. My desire to explore grew more and more. I needed to carry extra fuel for my excursions as my trips got longer and longer. It has not been unusual for some stranger to show up at my house asking me to help with a problem on his rig. I cannot even begin to think what my neighbors must think of me. My family puts up with me using the mud motor to pull the kids tubing and skiing instead of the Lund we leave at grandma and grandpas. My two girls are hooked on hunting and fishing the river bottoms. Our bond is cemented during outdoor activities. There is no doubt that some of the people I have met will be life long friends. And to think, it all started out with my boat bumping off stumps and getting hung up on sandbars in the dark while I asked the Lord for guidance and patience.

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MUD BUDDY NEWS

SUMMER 2011

Innovation you have come to enjoy.

By Glenn Foreman When we built our first longtail mud motor in my garage in 1994, we had one thing in mind create a motor that does what we want to do. Meaning, we have choices, we had good jobs, we worked our tails off 40 hours a week and our biggest vice was running the backwaters hunting waterfowl and we deserved a better motor. We were passionate about our sport and our boats and motors. We could have bought a longtail from our local dealer, but that didnt satisfy the creative urges we hunters get in mid summer that drives us to build a better blind, find the boat that does it all and figure out how we can build a better mud motor. coarse mud. Longtails then got a marine powder coat frame, a uniframe one- piece engine and frame mount, a lighter frame using chrome moly tubing and a host of innovations that would make the longtail easier to run and a drive. In all, these new machines lasted longer, drove easier and were much more fun to own.

Today, the Mud Buddy is evolving and running faster than a hummingbird in mating season. And I wont even try to claim we dream all these things up in a duck blind. Our customers are savvy and with their help, demand for quality, need for power, speed, ease of handling and durability, we as a team, have created innovative mud motors that cause soon-to-be customers lost sleep in anticipation. You have to admit innovations like handle end controls with a seriously powerful Mercury trim, stainless performance exhaust, Mikuni carbs that shoot your boat on step, the Big Blade, and sealed waterproof cast aluminum belt outdrives help us make the transition from Friday rush hour to Saturday blue skies more fun. Our greatest achievement today is that our loyal customers have joined us at our forum and in the field taking the reins helping us think from our garages into the future.

On our short list was that darn long tailshaft that hung off the back of our boat. How did the designer sleep knowing the longest part of the motor was hanging into traffic, in harms way. On our mind, and chances were, we would get rear-ended and ruin a week or two of the hunt. Plus, warming an engine was dangerous and trailering turned into a western rodeo. So we changed the mount and created the first longtail that swung into the boat for trailering. That simple. The first of a long list of firsts. Later we would develop the first bearing drive and a seal system that would last even when run in

MUD BUDDY NEWS

SUMMER 2011

Boat and Trailer Service Tips

Deadbird8 (Gary Kutac)

Give your tool kit a once over and wipe down tools you keep in the boat to keep them from rusting. Tighten down the screws on your seat bases. Clean leaves and debris from your bilge area and ensure your bilge intake is clear. I was told once that a bilge is like a parachuteif its not there when you need it, you may never need it again. Check that your drain plug is in good shape and put a spare in your boat for emergency. Trailer Maintenance: Finally go over the trailer. Its a good time to grease the hubs and or repack the bearings. Inspect the tire condition and inflation including your spare. Check your winch strap and replace if its fraying, the same with your transom straps. Make sure your safety chains are in good shape. Take a wrench to all the bolts and clamps on your trailer and ensure everything is tight. Inspect and replace any burnt lights or cracked lenses and corroded electrical connections. Spray a little WD40 in the hitch mechanism to make it easier to mount on the trailer ball. A few simple steps to protect your safety and investment, be careful out there and wear your kill switch lanyard.

Summer is a great time to get out and service your boat. Whether pulling it out of storage or transforming it from duck hunting to fishing platform spend a little time to care for your investment. Safety Equipment: Inspect your fire extinguisher, personal floatation devices, and other required safety equipment to ensure its in working order. If you have children in the boat, be sure to check the fit of their PFDs as they grow from season to season. Boat Electrical: Test all of your lights, switches, and electrical connections. Clean your battery terminals, check your fuses, replace any burnt out running or bow lights (pack a couple of spare fuses and bulbs in your boat), Clean any corrosion from connections and add a little anti-corrosive grease or spray. Clean and Replace: Go through the stored gear you have in your boxes and remove anything thats not functioning or needed.

MUD BUDDY NEWS Boat Wiring Tips

By Don Berry, Ph.D. (Gun Doc)

SUMMER 2011 Dow Corning 4 Electrical Insulating Compound Find a local source and get a tube or two.
(http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/DistributorFinder/Default .aspx?prod_id=01903128&prod_ids=PROD&country=USA&language =E)

Glenn asked me for half a page. I cant tell you much in half a page. I gave this some thought, but I didnt plan it for weeks, so please dont consider this to be all you need to know. Rule #1 - I spend time in salt water. I have a saying about boat wiring, You can do it right, or you can do it again . . . and again . . . and Not only that, but the best place to have wiring troubles on your rig is when it is in the garage. Maybe you are born lucky, but this seldom happens to me. If wiring messes up on you at the wrong time, much worse can happen. Think sunk boat.

(or Google Dow #4). This stuff keeps the environment away from joints and connections. It does not cure like RTV, but is like thick grease that gets all into the wire and around the connection. It is silicone based, so it lasts, but it never hardens. See Syringes and needles below under TOOLS. The syringe saves you a lot of Dow 4 and puts it where you want it. This stuff goes on every solder joint, under every piece of heat shrink (unless it is the expensive heat shrink that already has glue inside it), and inside every connector. Slide the needle in along the side of each wire that goes into the back of factory connectors (such as the ones on the B&S engines) to inject Dow 4 into the backs of the connectors. Most of the wires in factory wire harnesses are not marine wire, so the Dow 4 really helps here. Try to put some in the front of the connectors, where the terminals slide together, as well. Put some in you nose, ears, and under your fingernails (j/k on that last part.) Anderson connectors Anderson connectors, sometime called fork lift connectors, are wonderful (Google them, and shop around for price!) They are the best ever to quick connect a trolling motor, MUCH better than conventional trolling motor connectors. I use them many other places as well, anywhere I need a high amperage quick disconnect, like the big front spotlights when they had high wattage incandescent bulbs. These connectors are made of polycarbonate, stainless steel, and silver plated copper, all good materials for a marine environment. This is hard to explain, but there are no male and female halves, yet they are impossible to hook up backwards. When you have one in front of you this will make sense. They self clean, meaning they wipe the contacts as the connections are made and broken, and they connect with a satisfying snap. They come in colors, and the colors will not connect to each other. This prevents you from connecting a 12v device to a 24v source and vice/versa. Cont. next page.
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MATERIALS (and how to use some of them) Wire If you are doing some new wiring, use marine or salt water wire. It is tinned copper and withstands harsh environments much better. (When you strip a piece of old regular wire and the copper is all black, then you will understand.) Unless money is no object, try to find a source other than West Marine. Boaters World may be a bit better, but not much. You can probably get by with two (three at most) sizes other than the big cable you need for battery, trolling motor, winch, etc. me.

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MUD BUDDY NEWS

Boat Wiring Tips - Don Berry

SUMMER 2011 heat shrink spade type disconnects. I use the ones that have a cover over both the male and female part. Thus, the covers overlap as the connection is made. I use these when I think I may have to undo the connection more often than when I use the bullet connectors. You cannot use bullet connectors on wire larger than #14, so for big wire I use these connectors. You can sometimes use these connectors where the wire changes sizes. For example, I run BIG bilge pumps, a 1500 and a 2000. The wire to these is #10, because there is no reason to run a big pump then starve it for power. But the wire on the pump is much smaller than #10. So, a #12-10 yellow colored connector will mate up fine with #16-14 blue colored connector. (Check this for the ones you use before taking this tip as always true.) Another place I use these connectors is to connect to switches that have spade terminals.

The 50-amp size is about the size of a Zippo lighter, and can use up to #6 wire. I have never used anything other than this size. You connect the wire to the contacts and then snap the contacts into the body of the connector. Be sure to buy the right contacts for the wire size (#6 or #10 for the 50 amp connectors.) A good supply source will sell you extra contacts, and I suggest you get a few for when you mess one up. In other words, messing up a contact doesnt ruin the whole connector. Connectors and terminals Use terminal ends! Twisting bare wire around a screw wont do! (see Rule #1.) If you are forced to do this at least form a loop or hook and make it solid with solder. For ring terminals, I use bare connectors or take the insulating sleeve off. A bare connector soldered, treated with Dow 4, and the connection covered in heat shrink is as good if not better connection, is trim, and is MUCH cheaper than the expensive crimp and heat shrink ring terminal. I do use those expensive terminals and connectors, but only where I have to. I seldom hard wire anything in (see Plan to replace devices under PHILOSOPHY below.) For connections I may need to break, but not often, if the wire is small enough I often use what are called bullet connectors, but I strip off the plastic covers. Solder the wires to the connectors, put the connector together, then use Dow 4 and heat shrink tubing on the connection. This is a connection you can trust but it is reasonably easy to replace the device assuming you can get to the connection in situ to heat new shrink tubing. Getting the plastic off the female bullet connectors can be tricky. I file the insulation from the side until the metal part you crimp is exposed, then the part you want comes out easily. This seems a pain, but doesnt take long once you are practiced, and it is MUCH cheaper than the expensive crimp and heat shrink connectors. (I have never been able to find bare bullet connectors.) Now, I sometimes do use the expensive crimp and

PHILOSOPHY Craftsmanship - Every joint I make gets three things: 1) It is soldered, 2) coated in Dow 4, and 3) covered in heat shrink tubing. Terminal ends such as rings or eyes get the same treatment where the wire connects. You might get by with Dow 4 and crimping the regular insulated connectors, but see Rule #1. The only exception is the expensive crimp on terminals or connectors with heat shrink tubing. You cannot solder these. Cont. next page.

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MUD BUDDY NEWS

Boat Wiring Tips - Don Berry

SUMMER 2011 TOOLS Nail clippers The ends of wire ties cut with diagonals are sharp. Use common nail clippers, big ones, to cut the ends off flush and as slick as expensive tools. Syringes and needles Farm supply stores (Tractor Supply is a good one for me) will sell you syringes and needles without looking at you like you are a druggie. For most things, like Dow 4, you need a short big bore needle (1 16g.) They are SHARP!, so file off the point but leave some of the angle cut that made the point. This helps you slide the needle in where you need to. If you dont need to inject the material, you can use a syringe with no needle to make a nice easy to use dispenser. (I keep Dow 4 in both kinds, without a needle to just smear it on a connection, and with a needle to inject into connectors.) Crimpers When you do crimp, dont use pliers! The crimper/stripper/screw cutter, all in one electrical tools are cheap. Get a couple of different styles. Some where the crimpers are on the ends of the jaws, as opposed to back behind the hinge, are nice. Soldering gun Get a good pistol style (Weller is good.) For big wire, like lugs on #6 and larger, you need a big high wattage gun, so you really need two. (I once had a big Sears Craftsman gun. One time when I was really pushing it, soldering a big connection, the entire end that held the tip fell off. Why? Because the damn end was SOLDERED to the coil! Im a big fan of Craftsman tools, but that one wasnt the reason!)

Ground path - DO NOT use your hull for ground! This can cause all sorts of issues, the worst being that you create a galvanic corrosion situation. Remember that the ground wire must carry as much current as the hot wire, so it needs to be just as big. Plan to replace devices I like to avoid hard wiring in lights, bilge pumps, or any other device because I believe good wiring will outlast most devices. So, I put in connectors from the beginning assuming it will save me time and trouble in the long run when I need to repair or replace the device. (See Connectors and terminals above.)

Use enough fuses This is really a luxury, but I like a fuse per device, meaning one fuse for the running lights, one for the GPS, one for the depth finder, one for EACH bilge pump (you should have TWO), etc. This makes finding any problems easier. It also means a device that blows a fuse wont disable other devices. NEVER put both bilge pumps together on the same fuse! That is plain stupid.

I hope this helps some of you. I didnt get into running wires and keeping things neat. But neat, clean wiring not only looks good, it is much easier to diagnose. Following are some pictures of my small console that is on the bench seat in front of where I sit to drive, and what it looks like when the console is hinged up.

MUD BUDDY NEWS

SUMMER 2011

How to choose the right mud motor for your boat.

Clint Hovey Mud Buddy National Sales Manager

A few simple questions and answers are the key in determining the proper mud motor for your boating needs. What size is your boat? Bottom width, length, hull thickness, hull design and transom height? What does the Coast Guard placard in your boat list as Max HP? How far do you run on the water? How much of a load do you have? People and gear? What type of water are you running? What is the elevation where you will be running the boat? Do you have any physical limitations?

Call me with the answers to these questions and I can quickly recommend the best motor for your particular boat and situation. If you dont have a dealer nearby, I will be happy to help you. 801.352.8011

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MUD BUDDY NEWS

SUMMER 2011

Off season scouting what to look for.

By Rick McCurley R&B Outdoors.

Off-season scouting is just as important as scouting during the season. Obviously you wont be looking for birds as hopefully they are back on the breeding grounds cranking out a record fall flight. However, there are several other indicators you can find when looking for your next honey hole. First, and foremost, FOOD! This, by far, should be tops on your list of what to look for. When scouting by water, you want to look for aquatic vegetation that ducks love to grub on. However, you must keep in mind that certain ducks prefer certain foods. For instance, you motor up into an area that is loaded with hydrilla, duck potato and widgeon grass then you can bet that when the season rolls around it will be frequented by gadwall, widgeon, teal and pintail. You then motor over to another area that is loaded up with smartweed and you will most likely find that all puddler ducks want in on this table fare. Go weaving thru some flooded green timber and see acorns/pecans dropping into the water and you can bet the farm that mallards and wood ducks are gonna find it. On the rivers, ducks prefer freshwater shrimp/invertebrates/snails to dine on. Looking for food should not just be done by water though. Drive the backroads around the waters you are looking to hunt and check for crop growth in the area. Speak with local farmers or the guys at the local feed store to glean info as to what is growing that season and where. Remember, mallards and pintails love to feed in dry fields and loaf later on the water of nearby secluded areas. As for deciding which area to start in, satellite imagery on the Internet is your friend. Let your mouse do the clicking before you start out. Many times back roads leading close to backwaters can be seen as well as hidden boat ramps to launch your craft from.

Secluded waters can usually been seen as well in the timber. Make sure though not to cross private property or state owned land unless permission is granted or a state permit is offered and available. Contact the county clerks office for plat maps to gain info for private landowners. At times a phone call can lead to a meeting which could then lead to access to some fine hunting on their property. Finally, pay close attention to water levels while out scouting and as the season approaches. Record levels the day(s) you scout and make notes of the depth and vegetation line. There are a plethora of Internet websites that have lake, river or tidal conditions on a real-time basis. However, keep in mind that what may not have had much water in it in Sept may be full come Oct. And vice versa. Follow these simple guidelines and I guarantee you that you will find and kill more birds. Always keep records of your daily hunts as well noting water depth, vegetation, weather, etc Good luck and good scouting to ya!
Rick & Bart April 2005

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MUD BUDDY NEWS

SUMMER 2011

Upcoming Events
Washington's second annual mud motor festival/roundup and poker run.
Potholes Reservoir in Washington June 17, 18 and 19th

6th Annual Bama Mud Buddy Roundup.

Stevenson, Alabama - August 12, 13 and 14th,

see forum for details

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