ACTA MECHANICA SINICA, Vol.20, No.

6, December 2004
T h e Chinese Society of Theoretical and Applied Mechanics Chinese Journal of Mechanics Press, Beijing, China Allerton Press, INC., New York, U.S.A.

ISSN 0567-7718

A MICRO-MECHANICAL MODEL OF KNITTED FABRIC AND APPLICATION TO THE ANALYSIS OF BUCKLING UNDER TENSION IN WALE DIRECTION: MICRO-MECHANICAL MODEL*
ZHANG Yitong ( ~ X N ) t
LI C u i y u ( ~ N ) X U Jiafu ( ~ , ~ N )

ITS

(Department of Mechanics, Tianjin University, Tianjin 300072, China)

A B S T R A C T : The typical micro-knitting structure of knitted fabric, which makes it very different from woven fabric, is described. The tensile tests of knitted fabric are reported. The deformations of the micro-knitting structures are carefully studied. The study indicates that when a knitted fabric sheet is subjected to a tension along w-direction an extra compressive stress field inside loop in c-direction is induced. The extra stress field is also determined through analysis. Finally, a micro-mechanical model of knitted fabric is proposed. This work paves the way for the simulations of buckling modes of a knitted fabric sheet as are observed in experiments. K E Y W O R D S : constitutive theory, knitted fabric, micro-knitting structure, buckling, tensile tests

1 INTRODUCTION
F o r a long t i m e t h e woven fabric was considered as the s a m e as a t h i n o r t h o t r o p i c p l a t e w i t h very s m a l l elastic m o d u l i . A large n u m b e r of p a p e r s a b o u t t h e s i m u l a t i o n s of t h e d e f o r m a t i o n or d r a p i n g of woven fabric were p u b l i s h e d , see R e f s . [ l ~ 3 ] a n d t h e references q u o t e d there, b u t t h e errors of s i m u l a t i o n s were n o t very small. It is n o t e d t h a t b a s e d on t h e o r t h o t r o p i c c o n s t i t u t i v e m o d e l it is n o t possible to s i m u l a t e some special buckling m o d e s of woven fabric t h a t have b e e n observed in e x p e r i m e n t s [4]. S h o u l d t h e c o n s t i t u t i v e m o d e l of woven fabric be e x a c t l y t h e s a m e as t h a t of a fabric-reinforced c o m p o s i t e p l a t e ? M o t i v a t e d by t h e question, a m i c r o - m e c h a n i c a l m o d e l of woven fabric is p r o p o s e d and, b a s e d on t h e m o d e l , a series of buckling m o d e s of woven fabric have b e e n s i m u l a t e d successfully [5~z] . K n i t t e d fabric consists of m o r e c o m p l i c a t e d mic r o s t r u c t u r e s . T h e s i m u l a t i o n s of d r a p i n g or b u c k l i n g of k n i t t e d fabric, a n d t h e d e t e r m i n a t i o n of its con-

s t i t u t i v e m o d e l have n o t b e e n p a i d a d u e a t t e n t i o n in l i t e r a t u r e . In t h e p r e s e n t p a p e r we d e s c r i b e t h e t y p i c a l m i c r o - k n i t t i n g s t r u c t u r e s of k n i t t e d fabric, rep o r t t h e r e s u l t s of t h e tensile t e s t s of k n i t t e d fabric, a n a l y z e t h e d e f o r m a t i o n of t h e m i c r o - k n i t t i n g structure, a n d , finally, p r o p o s e a m i c r o - m e c h a n i c a l m o d e l for k n i t t e d fabric. T h e m o r e d e t a i l s a b o u t recent a d v a n c e s in fabric m e c h a n i c s c a n be f o u n d in t h e review a r t i c l e [8] a n d t h e b o o k [9].

2 MICRO-KNITTING KNITTED FABRIC

STRUCTURE

OF

K n i t t e d fabric is m a d e of i n t e r l o c k i n g loops of y a r n or t h r e a d . Its t y p i c a l m i c r o - k n i t t i n g s t r u c t u r e is shown in F i g . l ( a ) , a n d t h e locally e n l a r g e d loops are shown in F i g s . l ( b ) , (c), (d) a n d (e). T h e direct i o n in which t h e loops are i n t e r l o c k e d is called t h e w a l e - d i r e e t i o n , or in s h o r t h a n d form, w - d i r e c t i o n ; t h e d i r e c t i o n a l o n g which t h e loops line u p in a course is

Received 9 October 2003, revised I March 2004 * The project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (10272079) t E-maih ytzhang@tju.edu.cn

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called the course-direction, or c-direction. Both the directions are shown in Fig.l(a).

(a)

Typical micro-knitting structure of knitted fabric

(d)

The locally enlarged two loops subjected a shear along w-direction

(e) A locally enlarged smallest element subjected a shear Fig.1 The structure schematics of the knitted fabric (b) The locally enlarged loops subjected a tension along w-direction The interlocking loops of thread in knitted fabric play two important roles: first, the "interlocking" between the loops connects the loops to form the fabric sheet and transfer loading; and, second, the loopshaped threads in knitted fabric can undergo larger extensive deformation t h a n the straight threads in woven fabric. Some tests show that the tensile rigidity of knitted fabric is much less than t h a t of woven fabric composed of the same threads. To show that, one may stretch a shirt composed of woven fabric along warp/weft direction and a T-shirt composed of knitted fabric along w-/c-direction, respectively. It would be found that the latter deformation is much more t h a n the former one. This is because the loop-shaped knitting structures of knitted fabric can deform very extensively through changing of the geometrical shape of loops. Thus knitted fabric is much "softer" t h a n woven fabric and is well suitable for underwear. We assume that in a typical micro-knitting structure the loops are circles and the adjacent loops

(c) The locally enlarged loops subjected a tension along c-direction

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are tangent to each other on their contact points, for example, at the points A , B , C1,C2, etc, as shown in Fig.l(b). Thus it follows that in the triangle 0 1 0 2 0 3 we have 0lC1 = 03C1 and 03A]-0102, where O1, 02, and 03 are the centers of three adjacent loops. Let D, R denote the diameter of the thread and the mid-radius of the circle loop of the thread, respectively. Evidently, we have O103 = 2R, OaA = R + D / 2 , 0203 = 2 R - D . It is easy to show that the D and R must satisfy the following equation

If the loops in Fig.l(b) are subjected to a tension along w-direction the threads will be stretched in w-direction, the loops will become slender, and the fibers inside loops will be compressed. So there will be a tensile stress field in w-direction in threads. From a macroscopic viewpoint, the knitted fabric sheet will be extended in w-direction and at the same time be contracted in c-direction, i.e. the response of knitted fabric is similar to the response of a knitted-fabricreinforced composite plate when it is subjected to a tension along w-direction. If the loops in Fig.l(c) are subjected a tension along c-direction the threads will be stretched in cdirection, the loops will become flat, and the fibers of threads will be compressed against each other at their contact points such as the points G1, G2, H I , / / 2 , C1 and C2 etc. So there will be a tensile stress field in cdirection in threads. From a macroscopic viewpoint, the knitted fabric sheet will be extended in c-direction and, meanwhile, be contracted in w-direction, i.e. in this case the response of knitted fabric is also similar to the response of a knitted-fabric-reinforced composite plate when it is subjected to a tension along c-direction. A smallest knitting element in knitted fabric is sketched in Fig.l(d) in thick solid line and is plotted as an enlargement in Fig.l(e). There are four smallest knitting elements in Fig.l(d). A piece of knitted fabric consists of a large number of the smallest elements continuously connected with each other. When a knitted fabric sheet is subjected a shear along w-direction the smallest knitting element will be subjected to tension and compression in two directions perpendicular to each other, respectively, as shown in Fig.l(e). In this case the response of knitted fabric is also similar to the response of a knitted-fabric-reinforced composite plate when it is subjected to a shear along wdirection. 4 TENSILE TESTS OF KNITTED FABRIC

p(p-x)(p-2R)(p-2r+D)-

x2(R + D/2)2 = 0 (1) 4

where p is a half of the circumference of triangle O10203, and p = ~(4R + x - D); x is the distance between two centers of adjacent loops in w-direction, and x = O102 = ~ff6RD + D2/2, which we refer to as the distance between two adjacent courses. A solution of Eq.(1) is R = kD, where 1.6257... < k < 1.6258.--, We take k = 1.626 in the present paper. The other solutions of Eq.(1) are physically meaningless for this problem. The knitting elements filled with two pieces of threads are called cells and two adjacent cells in cdirection are shown in Fig.l(a) in a thick dashed line. The cells are lined up continuously in c-direction. The cells are symmetric about the wale-axis. The adjacent two cells in w-direction have a common part, e.g., the cell O1 and the cell 02 in Fig.l(b) have a common part between the lines which pass points V and A, respectively. The distance between two points U and V in a cell, denoted by UV, is called the effective length of the cell, and it is easy to obtain

UV = 0102 = X/6RD + D2/2 = 1.970R UB = 0.543R

BM1 = 0.889R BO1 = 0.457R

(2a) (2b) (2c) (2d) (2e)

01N1 = R

For convenience it is assumed that the thickness of knitted fabric is unity. 3 ANALYSIS OF DEFORMATION OF MICRO-KNITTING STRUCTURE

We start with the analysis of the deformation of loops of knitted fabric when they are subjected to a tension along w-direction, c-direction and a shear along w-direction, respectively.

Tensile tests of knitted fabric were carried out in Shimadzu Testing Machine recently. The specimens were cut off from a piece of knitted fabric that is usually used to make vests. The specimens were ironed and then were laid freely on table for more than 24 h before tests. The thickness of specimens is 0.245 mm, the width 90 m m and the length 300 ram. The photographs of specimens under tension along wdirection and along c-direction are shown in Figs.2(a) and (b), respectively. We can see clearly that the specimen under tension along w-direction buckled and

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the specimen under tension along c-direction did not buckle. The direction of the buckling wave trough line in Fig.2(a) deviates slightly from the loading direction. This is because that it is very difficult to fix the knitted fabric specimens to make its w-direction coincide with the loading direction exactly.

As for woven fabric, where a linear constitutive model between the second Piola-Kirchhoff stress tensor T and the Green strain tensor E is usually applied [1~4] , we will also propose a linear incrementM constitutive relations between T and E for knitted fabric in the following section.
5 AN EMBRYONIC MODEL FORM FOR OF CONSTITUFABRIC

TIVE

KNITTED

From above results of tests and analysis for the micro-knitting structure of knitted fabric we conclude that when a knitted fabric is subjected a tension along w-direction/c-direction the loops will be stretched in w-direction/c-direction, and exhibit a contraction in c-direction/w-direction. From the macroscopic viewpoint, the mechanical behavior of knitted fabric is somewhat analogous to that of a knitted-fabricreinforced composite plate. The wale-axis and courseaxis are two principal axes of knitted fabric, but the mechanical property in w-direction is different from that in c-direction. So the orthotropic model of coinposite plate can be treated as an embryonic form of the constitutive model of knitted fabric. We write tentatively for knitted fabric

(a)

(b)

Fig.2 (a) Buckled specimen under tension along w-direction; (b) Not buckled specimen under tension along c-direction The stress-strain curve of Tw against Ew obtained from the tests is shown in Fig.3 in solid line, and the curve of T~ against E~ in dashed line, respectively, where Tw and Tr are the components of the second Piola-Kirchhoff stress tensor, Ew and Er the components of the Green strain tensor. 0.35 0.30 0.25 0.20 0.15 0.10 0.05 0.00 0.00 0.05 0.10 0.15 0.20 0.25 0.30 0.35
...

/}
% = Tcw

D~l
0

D~2
0

0]/w/
0 E~
Ecw

(3)

2D66

where T~w is the shear component of the second PiolaKirchhoff stress tensor, E~w is the shear components of the Green strain tensor, and

D11 m _

i - t/~y~
Yw/2w

gw

Di2 -- - -

(a)
D21
..... (b)
-

1 -- Yc~w

Y~y~
1 - Pc~w

Y~ D22 -- 1 - pc~'w D66 = Gwc/2

where Yw and Yc are the Young moduli in w-direction and in c-direction, uc and ~w the Poisson ratios in cdirection and in w-direction, and Gwc the shear modulus, respectively. Gwc can be approximately determined by KES (Kawabata evaluation system for fabric) shear test [1~

Fig.3 (a) The test curve of Tw against Ew in solid line; (b) The test curve of Tc against Ec in dashed line

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However, the knitted fabric is very much different from the orthotropic composite plate, e.g. the knitted-fabric-reinforced composite plate. The obvious differences between them are as follows. First, the former possesses a micro-knitting structure whereas the latter does not (the micro-knitting structure of the latter is bonded to the matrix); secondly, the stresses in the former are acted on the micro-knitting structures alone whereas the stresses in the latter are acted both on the micro-knitting structures and the matrix. We should carefully consider the deformations of the micro-knitting structure and decide if and how Eq. (3) might be modified in order to describe correctly the mechanical property of knitted fabric. Another important reason for constitutive Eq.(3) to be modified is that based on Eq.(3), the buckling of the knitted fabric sheet shown in Fig.2(a) cannot be predicted. In fact, it has been proved that when a sheet composed of orthotropic materials is subjected a uniaxial tension along any direction, the out-of-plane buckling like that shown in Fig.2(a) will definitely not occur[ 51. Careful observation of the deformation of a cell shows that when the knitted fabric sheet is subjected to a tension in w-direction the fibers inside the cell are subjected to a compression due to the contraction of the cell in c-direction. Therefore, there is an extra compressive stress field inside the cell that does not exist in orthotropic materials. This extra stress field is induced in knitted fabric by the micro-knitting structures and should be added to the stress field determined by Eq.(3) in order to describe correctly the stresses acted on the fibers in knitted fabric. From Fig.l(c) we also see that when the knitted fabric is subjected to a tension in c-direction, there are compressive stresses only at the contact points of loops, such as the points Gx, G2, H1,/-/2, C1 and C2 in Fig.l(b). These compressive stresses exist only at some points and are not continuous in knitted fabric. Thus there is no extra stress field to be added to Eq.(3) when the knitted fabric is subjected to a tension in c-direction. In the following section we will carefully analyze the deformation of a cell when it is subjected to a tension in w-direction in order to determine the extra compressive stress field. Since it is not possible to measure the extra stress field by tests, it is very important to determine the extra stress field through analysis. 6 ANALYSIS OF DEFORMATION OF

w-DIRECTION

For convenience we first introduce some terms. We call the boundary curve of a cell the shell of the cell as shown in thick line in Fig.4; the points J1 and J2 the end points of the cell, the points I1 and 12 the inner points of the cell; and the approximately circleshaped area inside the shell, with length and width of UV and N2N1, respectively, the effective inner space of the cell. From Fig.l(b) it is evident that the end points of cell O1 is also the inner points of cell O2. The fibers in a cell, i.e. the shadow part in a cell shown in Fig.4 or in Fig.l(a), occupy almost all the effective inner space of the cell. To facilitate analysis we assume that the effective inner space of the cell is filled n with the fibers of the threads and the arcs N1 J1 and
N

N2J2 are replaced by straight lines NxJ1 and N2J2, respectively, as shown in Fig.4. Simple calculations give
n N

N~J~

= N2J 2

= 1.716R and

N1J1 = N2J2 = 1.644R,

thus the relative error of the replacement is about 3%. The angle a shown in Fig.4 is the angle made by the lines N1 J1 and I1 J1. U

N1

Fig.4 A simplified cell in initial configuration

The deformed configuration of the cell is sketched in Fig.5(a), with the letters with prime signifying the points in the initial configuration. We now consider a piece of knitted fabric which is subjected to a tension along w-direction. Denote the tension per unit area (measured in the initial configuration) by c]. The tensile load acting on the width of 2R + D of the fabric sheet is equal to q(2R + D) and, from Fig.l(b), the load acts on three pieces of threads. Thus the load acting in w-direction on one thread is P = q(2R + D)/3 = 0.871 7Rq (4)

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termed the end forces of the cell, as shown in Fig.5(a). It follows that F1 = F2 = P / c o s ~ , where o,~ is the angle made by the lines N~J~ and I~J~ as shown in Fig.5(b). The value of c~~ will be determined later. 6.1 E q u i l i b r i u m o f t h e Shell o f t h e Cell Beside the end forces Fz and F.2, acting on the end points I~ and I~ of the shell, the shell is also subjected to inner pressure from the fibers inside the cell as shown in Fig.5(a). The resultant forces of the pressure, denoted by R1 a n d / ~ as shown in Fig.5(b), must pass the inner points J~ and J.~ of the cell, and must be equal in magnitude and opposite in direction to the forces F1 and F2, respectively. This is because the reacting forces of R1 and R2 are just the end forces of another shell. The shell is in equilibrium state under the actions of the forces F1, F2, together with R1 and R2. R1 and R2 can be decomposed into Rlw and Rlc, R2w and R2c, respectively, as shown in Fig.5(c). We have Rlw - R~w = P Rlc = R2c = P tan c~~ (5)

Fig.5(a)

The pressure exerted by the fibers inside cell

R2 U' r

R1 \ r

Irw

/I !:or Ld

6.2 D e f o r m a t i o n

o f t h e Cell

F~

#F1

Fig.5(b) The resultant forces of inner pressure

R w 2 c ~ R ~

R1 c

Due to the principle of acting and reacting forces, there are two pressure fields inside the cell: one is the pressure field in c-direction corresponding to Rlc and R2c, on the area of whole effective inner space of the cell; another is the pressure field in wdirection corresponding to Rlw and R2w, only on the area above the line I[I~ inside the cell. Both pressure fields are induced by the micro-knitting structures and are called extra pressure fields as shown in Fig.6(a) and Fig.6(b), respectively.

1/
F2 ~ ? F1 Pig.5(c) The decomposed Rt and R2 Denote the forces acting on the end points of the cell along the thread directions by F1 and F2, respectively, Fig.6(a) The extra pressure field in w-direction

Vol.20, No.6

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where

"r(q)

0.543Re

+ 0.457Re 'Jvc

(11)

T h e deformed configuration of the cell is sketched in Fig.5(a). We now assume t h a t the curve
n

N f U ' N . ~ is a p p r o x i m a t e l y half of an ellipse.

/_

/
Fig.6(b) The extra pressure field in c-direction From the macroscopic viewpoint, the cells are very small, thus we can assume t h a t b o t h pressure fields inside a cell are homogenous, thus the magnitudes of e x t r a pressures in w-direction and in cdirection corresponding to the initial configuration are, respectively,
P

T h e stretch of the shell of the cell in w-direction due to the change of the shape of the shell (or loop) is much larger t h a n t h a t due to the extension of threads, thus we can assume t h a t the total length of the shell of the cell (or loop) does not vary during deformation. In other words, the extension of t h r e a d is neglected in the micro-mechanicM analysis of the cell, b u t is considered in constitutive Eq.(3). T h u s we have
U N 1 + N 1'J , = U N ,
N I ! N

(12)

Pw --

BM1

Pc

Ptanc~'
=

UV

(6)

Using the a p p r o x i m a t e equation for the circumference of an ellipse, we write Eq.(12) as

+ +

Substituting Eqs.(4), (2c) and (2a) into Eqs.(6) gives

4 ~ R + 1.664R = 3.235R
7C

0.692 5rc sin c~' (13)

pw = 1.125

0.9so6q
]r]

(7)

Pc = 0.5076tanc~' R

0.442 6tanc~'q

W i t h the aid of Eqs.(10), (7) and (4), be w r i t t e n as f ( R , rh q, c~') = 0

(13) can
(14)

We now consider the deformation of the cell. T h e radial deformation of threads under compression can be described by
d = D e -'Tp

where c~' is the deformed c~ as shown in Fig.5(b). Solving Eq.(14) for cd gives

(8) where 0 < c~' < arcsin R - D / 2 _ 24.590 .

J1 N ,

(15)

where d is the deformed d i a m e t e r of thread, r/ is a constant related to the materials of thread, and p is the pressure with respect to the initial configuration of thread. Thus we have
rw = U ' B ' + B ' O ' I = U B e
t ! rc = O 1 N { = O1Nle

Let Aw and Ac denote the stretches of the cell in w-direction and c-direction, respectively, we have
Awrw + O ' l A ' R + 01A to-rc 01N

(16)

-~qw + B ' O ' I

(9)
~q~

Noting t h a t
O ~ A ' = K ' J ~ = K ' N s cot a ' = 0.692 5rc cot a '

where rw is the radius in w-direction of the deformed cell and rc the radius in c-direction of the deformed cell, as shown in Fig.5(b).
A

we rewrite Eqs.(16) as Ac = --rc R Aw = where /3(@ = 3@t) + 0.692 5 cot c~' 2.513 (19) rw + 0.692 5 cot R + 1.513R (17)

Since SO1 < BtOi < M I N I mately

we take approxi-

B ' O ' , - B 0 1 = 0.457R

o~'rc
=/3(q)Ac (18)

Substituting Eqs.(2b), (2d) and the above equation into Eqs.(9) gives
rw : 7(Ct)rc rc : R e -~p~

(10)

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6.3 T h e E x t r a C o m p r e s s i v e S t r e s s F i e l d s

Corresponding to the extra pressure field inside the cell in c-direction, there is a Cauchy stress field inside the cell P tan a' a~xt_ U'V' (20) This stress field is acted on the whole area of the effective inner space of the cell, so that it is continuous on the whole knitted fabric sheet and should be added to the constitutive Eqs.(3). Since the cell is very small, it is assumed that the stretches Aw and Ac are homogenous inside a cell. Thus it follows that

7 THE MICRO-CONSTITUTIVE EQUATIONS OF KNITTED FABRIC

We rewrite Eq.(3) as

Dii
D~I

Di2
D~2

0 0 Ec (29)

C66

Ecw

Adding the extra compressive stress field T~Xtto the above constitutive equation gives the microconstitutive equations of knitted fabric

U'V' = A,~UV

(21)

Tc Tow

T2 T~

-T: xt=

Substituting Eq.(2a) into Eq.(21) and then into Eq.(20) leads to a~xt _ Ptana' _0.4425qtana' 1.970AwR A~ (22)

Dii
D~I

Di2
D22 0

0 0 2D66 Ec (30)

Corresponding to the extra pressure field inside the cell in w-direction, there is also a Cauchy stress field inside the cell, but it is local inside the cell, or, from the macroscopic viewpoint, it is not continuous on the knitted fabric sheet. We do not add it to the constitutive equations. The Cauchy stress in knitted fabric in wdirection corresponding to the tension is 3P
--

Ecw

where D21 = D~a - ~(q)Dn D22 D~2 - ~(q)D12 (31)

(]

(23)

We remark that the extra stress field exists only inside the cell, or from the macroscopic viewpoint, only inside the knitted fabric. The extra stress does not take part in the satisfaction of boundary conditions. Thus the stress boundary conditions take the form, analogous to that for woven fabric in Ref.[4]

Above equation can also be obtained from the boundary condition Sw = q (24)

TOBNB = TA

A, B = 1, 2

(32)

where Sw is a component of the nominM stress tensor. Substituting Sw = Ar (25) into Eq.(24) gives Eq.(23). Making use of Eqs.(23), (22) and (18) leads to cr~xt = 0 442 5 ~ - a w
tan a'

where TA is the traction applied to the boundary with unit outward normM NA; T~ is the second PiolaKirchhoff stress with the extra stress taken out. When the knitted fabric is only subjected a tension in w-direction denoted by q the boundary condition becomes

Tw = q/ w
This is equivalent to Eq.(24).
8 CONCLUSION AND REMARKS

(33)

(26)

Finally, substituting a c

ext
--

"~c Text Aw r '

O- w

~--WTwinto Eq.(26) and using Eq.(18), we are left with

T: = (q)Tw
where
= 0.442 5 tan

(27)

(28)

By both tests of knitted fabric and analysis of micro-knitting structures of knitted fabric, a micro constitutive Eq.(30) for it is proposed. The tests of knitted fabric show that when a knitted fabric sheet is subjected to a tension in wdirection the sheet certMnly buckles. It has been proved that based oi1 the orthotropic constitutive

Vol.20, No.6

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Eq.(3) the buckling cannot occur [51. Based on the micro constitutive Eq.(30) the buckling of knitted fabric as shown in Fig.2(a) is analyzed. It is shown that only a flexural buckling mode can occur for a knitted fabric sheet. The predictions are in good agreement with the experiments. The details are reported in the sequel of this paper (Part 2). The tests also show that when a knitted fabric sheet is subjected to a tension in c-direction the sheet does not buckle. This can also be predicted by a buckling analysis based on the micro constitutive Eq. (30) and following the same procedure as in Ref.[5]. The details are reported in another article.

REFERENCES
1 Kim JH. Fabric mechanics analysis using large deformation orthotropic shell theory. [Ph D Thesis]. Dept of Mechanical and Aerospace Engineering, North Carolina State University, 1991 2 Kang T J, Yu WR. Drape simulation of woven fabric by using the Finite-element method. J of the Textile Institute, 1995, 86(4): 635N648 3 Chen B J, Govindaraj M. A PhisicaIy-based model of

fabric drape using flexible shell theory. Textile Research Journal, 1995, 65(2): 324~330 Zhang YT, Fu YB. A micromechanical model of woven fabric and its application to the analysis of buckling under uniaxial tension. Part 1: the micromechanical model. Inter Y E n 9 Sci, 2000, 38(17): 1895~1906 Zhang YT, Fu YB. A micromechanical model of woven fabric and its application to the analysis of buckling under uniaxial tension. Part 2: Buckling analysis. Inter Y Eng Sci, 2001, 39(1): 1~13 Zhang YT. Xu JF. Buckling analysis of woven fabric under simple shear along any direction. Textile Research Journal, 2002, 72(2): 147~152 Zhang YT, Xu JF. The buckling analysis of woven fabric subjected to uniaxial tension along any direction. Applied Mathematics and Mechanics, 2002,

23(5): 597~605
8 Zhang YT. The recent advances in fabric mechanics. Advances in Mechanics, 2003, 33(2): 217~226 (in Chi-

nese)
9 Zhang YT. Modern Fabric Mechanics and Theory on Stability. Beijing: Peking University Press, 2003 (in Chinese) 10 Hu JL, Zhang YT. The KES shear test for fabrics. Textile Res Journal, 1997, 67(9): 654N664