To Volunteer click here: http://www.grpg.org/volunteer/volunteersignup Catalog of trees? Map of the Historic Orchard: http://www.grpg.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/OrchardMap2.

pdf History of the Historic Orchard EventsMonthly Volunteer Day at the Orchard: http://www.grpg.org/volunteer UC ResourcesUC Pest Notes : http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/menu.homegarden.html Garden HelpTips and Techniques: Frost Damaged Plants (http://mastergardeners.org/publications/frost_damaged_plants.html) June Gardening Projects -- http://www.mastergardeners.org/tips/june.html

Mycorrhizal Fungi (http://mastergardeners.org/newsletter/myco.html)

Fruits and Nuts: Fruit Tree and Vine care Calendar (http://mastergardeners.org/pdf/import/picks/treecalendar.pdf) Apples (http://mastergardeners.org/picks/apples.html)

Trees & Shrubs references(http://mastergardeners.org/help/trees)

Insects, Disease, Weeds, and Pests: Birds-- http://mastergardeners.org/resources/animals/birds.html Pocket Gophers-- http://mastergardeners.org/resources/animals/pocket_gophers.html Ground Squirrels-- http://mastergardeners.org/resources/animals/ground_squirrels.html Tree Squirrels-- http://mastergardeners.org/resources/animals/tree_squirrels.html Rabbits-- http://mastergardeners.org/resources/animals/rabbits.html Rats and Mice-- http://mastergardeners.org/resources/animals/rats_and_mice.html Skunks-- http://mastergardeners.org/resources/animals/skunks.html Snakes-- http://mastergardeners.org/resources/animals/snakes.html

Frost-damaged Plants
Frost Damaged Plants May Need Pruning, but Wait until Spring
From Jeannette Warnert, University of California Cooperative Extension January 2007 Recent freezing temperatures in many parts of California have injured some citrus trees and other frost-sensitive subtropical plants. But since the full extent of injury won't be known for several months, UC Cooperative Extension (UCCE) horticulture advisor Ed Perry suggests gardeners wait until spring before pruning and removing damaged trees and plants. The frost injury to plants depends upon a number of factors, including species, age, health, soil moisture and location. Frost injures plants by causing ice crystals to form in plant cells, making water unavailable to plant tissues and disrupting the movement of fluids. Frost-damaged leaves appear water-soaked, wither, and turn dark brown or black. Unprotected, sensitive young trees may be killed, but frost rarely kills mature trees in California. "While you may be tempted to prune out damaged branches right away, it's best to wait until spring when new growth will show you the extent of the injury," said Perry of Stanislaus County. "Always allow plenty of time for new growth to take place, so that the damage is clearly defined. Earlier pruning often results in leaving some limbs which might continue to die back, and the removal of limbs which might recover." If a one- or two-year-old citrus tree has been killed almost to the ground, it's important to determine whether the dead wood extends below the bud union, something best done in April or later. "If only the roots survive and grow back, you may be left with an unproductive rootstock instead of the true-to-type citrus tree you originally planted. In this case, the tree should be replaced," Perry said. "If there is enough live wood above the bud union to grow a strong shoot, a new trunk will develop." The only treatment that should be applied rapidly after a freeze is whitewashing, according to UCCE citrus farm advisor Ben Faber of Ventura County. "Often the most severe damage following a freeze results from sunburn of exposed twigs and branches after defoliation," Faber said. "If a tree has been defoliated, paint or spray on water-diluted white latex paint to protect the bark from the sun." The citrus fruit itself is often damaged by frost. Within a few hours after critically low temperatures, ice crystals form inside the juice vesicles, causing the vesicles to rupture. This results in water loss, causing the fruit to dry out. Frostdamaged fruit must be used quickly, because they break down rapidly and are subject to decay. Deterioration of frost-damaged fruit usually occurs within a few days to a couple of weeks, depending on storage conditions.

"Pick all the frost-damaged fruit as soon as possible," Perry said. "That will remove some of the stress from a weakened tree, and allow you to use the fruit before they break down entirely." Also, decrease or withhold nitrogen fertilizer applications to severely damaged citrus trees and irrigate carefully. "Frozen trees have been thrown out of balance. They have the same amount of roots as before, which are now supplying a much-reduced top," Perry said. "The result is a tremendous amount of new growth breaking out all over the trunk and uninjured branches. It's best that the new shoots grow at a moderate rate." The UC advisors say a quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer may stimulate excessive water sprout and sucker growth, which makes reshaping the tree more difficult. Over-irrigation may induce root damage and encourage growth of root rotting organisms. Irrigation should be less frequent and in smaller amounts until trees have regained their normal foliage.

June Gardening Topics

Fruit and Chilling Hours
Wonder why fruit trees produce little or no fruit? Lack of cold evening temperatures and warm days at the right time during winter is the reason. Chilling hours are calculated by adding up the hours of below 45F. Chilling hours influence bud break, fruit set and fruit development. Insufficient chilling is probably the most limiting factor for sweet cherry, peach, apricot, nectarine and apple fruit yield here in the Santa Clara Valley. Chilling hour requirements range from four days (<100 hours) for persimmons to six to eight weeks for sweet cherries. For more information, visit theCalifornia Backyard Orchard website.

What's Eating My Fruit?

Is there a hole with teeth marks? It's probably roof rats or squirrels. Does the fruit look stabbed? It's likely birds. Here are some ways to keep the fruit for your family. Summer prune so the tree stays small enough to be covered with bird netting. Erecting a PVC pipe frame first eases net installation. Weigh down the net at ground level. If the tree is large, try pruning the branches so nothing touches any structure or other plant. This reduces rat and squirrel access. Purchase some shiny Mylarb bird scare tape and tie an 18" length to a bamboo pole that's long enough to emerge out the top of the tree. Use several on each tree. Put out right before the fruit is ripe and remove it as soon as you are finished harvesting.

Fire Blight
Fire blight bacteria symptoms appear as blackened dead branches and twigs that have a torched look. It hits ornamentals like pyracantha, cotoneaster, flowering pear and crabapple, mountain ash, hawthorn and fruit trees such as apple, pear, loquat and quince. It overwinters in cankers or wounds and resumes bacterial growth in the spring. There may or may not be oozing from the canker. It is spread by insects, rain, or pruning. The infection can extend

into the trunk or root system and may kill the tree. Prune the infected branch about eight inches below the dead area. Spraying during bloom is the preventative method of control. See the pest note for more information.

Certified Arborists
The Master Gardeners get calls asking about how to trim trees or identify problems with trees. Sometimes we can help over the phone, but problem identification is often difficult without seeing the tree, so we may suggest you bring in a sample or send photos in addition to describing the problem. When you need an expert onsite, you can use theISA website to find arborists using your home's zip code.

Fruit Tree Overload

If you have a fruit tree ready to pick and you just don't have the time or energy or motivation to pick the fruit before it falls and rots, please contact Village Harvest. This terrific organization has volunteers who will come to your garden and remove the fruit. The fruit is then donated to food bank organizations such as Second Harvest. Because of the demand for their services, they are focusing on senior or disabled homeowners, orchards or gardens with several trees. Their website gives hints on how to manage your fruit production reasonably and has many links to fruit tree information. Their telephone number is (888) FRUIT-411.

Irrigation
Check your irrigation system to be sure it's in full working order. If you have drip lines, open the end and turn on the water to clean out the line. Close the end of the line and check that each emitter or sprayer is working properly and isn't clogged. Check popup sprinklers for full spray and for proper placement of water. Plants grow larger during the winter and spring and may be blocking the water from reaching the expected location. Also unneeded spray watering of shrubs and trees can cause disease problems. Make sure the irrigation timer is set correctly as well.

Mulching
Mulching is an effective technique to keep soil temperatures even, to retain moisture and to prevent weeds from germinating. Mulching with organic matter such as chipped tree trimmings, compost or barks not only reduces water usage but also improves the organic content and texture of soil. Apply at least two to three inches of material (three to six inches of larger bark pieces), keeping it several inches away from the trunks of trees and shrubs to prevent crown rots. Renew every few years as it decomposes and enriches the soil.

Aphids in Plum or Other Fruit Trees

Ants in your tree, leaves curled and deformed that look like peach leaf curl, are signs that there is an infestation of aphids. They affect the new leaves as they open. There are several ways of handling this problem. First try getting rid of the ants by using a 4 inch wide band of tanglefoot applied on top of a wrapper around the trunk of the tree. Try spraying the affected area with a soap (liquid dish soap like Ivory) and water spray, making sure you get all the surfaces of the leaves. If the infestation is really bad, cut out the affected areas. A Pest Note on Aphids is free.

Bearded Iris

They have mostly stopped blooming by now. Young clumps should have their old flower stalks removed so they don't waste energy producing seed. Three or four year old clumps should be divided because they have exhausted the nutrients in the soil and blossom production will decline. The youngest healthiest roots are at the outer edges of the clump. Choose growth with a double fan, 3 - 4 leaves, and a Y shaped root, and plant these.

Bee Swarms
I have seen three swarms, two in my yard, and one at Prusch Farm Park. They clump together hanging from a tree branch. The one in my yard looked like a brown bag hanging on my Bottlebrush shrub. The bees are usually full of honey and docile, especially when it gets cooler. The hive has gotten overcrowded so the queen leaves taking part of the bees with her. They hang there for a few days and then leave. It's a natural occurrence and very interesting to observe. Leave them alone and they won't bother you. If you really can't stand them, there are some bee keepers that will come and get them. Call our hotline for some names.

Earwigs
Earwigs are second only to snails and slugs in causing damage. They do have a good side as they eat insects such as aphids. Unfortunately they also feed on soft plants. They can do quite a lot of damage if there is a high population. Earwigs are nocturnal, feeding at night and hiding in a moist, tight fitting place during the day. You can trap them by putting out moistened, tightly rolled newspaper or corrugated cardboard in the evening. In the morning dispose of the paper and the trapped insects.

English Daisies in the Lawn

The little flowers that grow in the lawn in places like Golden Gate Park are called English daisies. They used to be considered weeds but are now quite popular. Some grass seed mixes include them in their mix now. You can mow and they keep continually blooming. It is a true daisy from which all other daisies take their name. They are 6 to 8 inches tall if allowed to mature. They have single or double white, pink, rose or red flowers from early spring through summer. The seeds are very small but germinate easily. Best sown in the fall but can be sown now. Most seed catalogs have English daisy seeds.

Geraniums are not Flowering

Probably too much water or too much fertilizer or both. Geraniums need a drier area in your yard. If this isn't possible, try growing them in pots.

Peachtree Borer
Small piles of reddish or brown sawdust like frass appear at the base of the tree trunk. After winter rains, sap oozes through damaged areas, usually at ground level. The larva is a one inch white worm with a brown head. If you carefully dig into the bark at a hole, you can see them now. The Peachtree borer attacks mostly young trees of the peach, apricot, cherry, prunes, plums, almonds, many native and ornamental Prunus species. In June or July, use a spray of carbaryl, applied from the crotch down, and puddling at the base to soak into the soil.

Rose Basal Cane or Sucker?

It can be difficult for an novice rose grower to tell the difference between a basal cane and a sucker. They both shoot straight up with vigorous growth. The sucker comes from below the bud union (the bump just below where the rose starts to branch). The foliage, thorns, and growth are entirely different than the rest of the plant. It is usually longer and more willowy than a basal cane. Also it does not terminate in a bud. The sucker should be cut off at the point of origin. The basal cane originates at the bud union and all its characteristics are the same as the plant. This is the best wood on the plant and should be left on. It grows tall with a cluster of blooms at the top. It is best to pinch out the tip when it is about 18 inches long.

Rose Diseases
Several diseases can be common in our area. Blackspot is a fungus with circular black spots that appear on leaves. The leaf then turns yellow and drops off. Powdery Mildew is also a fungus that shows white powdery masses on the leaf, stem and bud, distorting and stunting them. Rust can cause the leaves to wilt and may drop off. The leaf top may have light green mottling with yellow dots. The underside has powdery rust-colored spores. A fungicide that can be made at home by combining 2-1/2 tablespoons of horticultural oil (Sunspray Ultra-Fine, Saf-T-Side, etc.) in a gallon of water and adding 4 teaspoons baking soda. Use a fine spray and apply to affected plants. This also controls foliar vegetable diseases. Some plants may show some sensitivity. More details at the Pest Note on Powdery Mildew.

Armored Scale Control

Armored scale insects are in the crawler stage in early summer. Armored scale has a hard stage that is very resistant to sprays. Control them during the crawler stage when they are soft and vulnerable. Spray with a horticultural (not dormant) oil, once a month for three months. See the Pest Note on Scale for important information about spraying.

Tomato Blossom End Rot

The brown depression on the bottom of the tomato can be caused by a lack of calcium in the soil or irregular watering. Use a balanced fertilizer according to the label and water consistently. Mulching the plant is also a good idea.

Vegetables Growing in Containers

Container grown vegetables can be decorative as well as good to eat. Almost any vegetable can be grown in a container if given the proper care. Eggplant, peppers, tomatoes, lettuce, onions, carrots, cucumbers and herbs do well. One of the biggest problems is that containers dry out very fast and nutrients wash away. Both are solvable. Do not use clay pots which dry out quickly. Plastic, composite or wooden half-barrels are good. Vegetables like a roomy container. There must be drainage holes in the bottom but it is not recommended that you put pebbles or broken crockery in the bottom. Use a good commercial potting mix, not planter or planting mix. Group the containers together so they will shade one another. The hot summer sun can heat the soil to unhealthy levels. Water whenever the soil is dry. You can test by digging your fingers into the dirt or using an inexpensive moisture meter. You may have to water more than once a day. A simple drip system is easy to install and will make your container garden almost foolproof. Add a timer, a patio chair, relax and enjoy. Fertilize every week with a water-soluble fertilizer.

Mycorrhizal Fungi
Elaine Levine You can't see it. It's hard to pronounce, but mycorrhizal fungi are important to home gardeners because they affect most of the plants we grow. In short, mycorrhizae provide plants with nutrients, particularly nitrogen and phosphorus, and plants in turn give mycorrhizae the sugars produced through photosynthesis. "Basically, 90 percent of the world's vascular plants belong to families that have symbiotic associations with mycorrhizal fungi," says Michael Miller, senior soil scientist at the U.S. Department of Energy's Argonne National Laboratory, Argonne, Illinois. Inoculations of commercially produced mycorrhizal fungi for food crops are on the rise, but there is controversy about its use by the home gardener. So far, say the researchers in the field, if you already have healthy soil, you probably don't need inoculants. Besides farmers, the most likely beneficiaries of inoculants are people who live in new developments where the topsoil was removed. To encourage your own mycorrhizae:

Avoid soil disturbance such as annual tilling.Avoid use of synthetic pesticides, especially fungicides. Avoid soil compaction. Avoid use of leaf blowers which remove organic material. Mulch with partially composted leaves and other organic material. Encourage birds and other beneficial wildlife to visit your garden. When planting native trees and shrubs, add a handful of organic duff from woodland near your home to the planting hole. This likely contains spores of locally occurring mycorrhizae. If you decide to use mycorrhizal inoculants, look for a company that produces the inoculant in your geographic region. The nearest company to us is Bio/Organics in Santa Maria, CA. From The American Gardener, July/Aug, 1998.

Apples for the Home Garden By Nancy Garrison, Former Urban Horticulture and Master Gardener Program Coordinator

Apples, Malus communis D. C., are adaptable to most areas of Santa Clara County; our moderate climate is adequate for coloration in most red varieties and generally adequate to meet winter chilling requirements. There are hundreds of varieties of apples, and some varieties have several strains, each with its own characteristics. There are several available rootstocks for apples, the most profound characteristics of which, are dwarfing and pest resistance. Apples require cross pollination to varying degrees.

VARIETY SELECTION The greatest selection of varieties will be available from local nurseries during the December - February bareroot season. One's choice should be made based on personal taste preference, tree size and harvest season. Early season varieties start to ripen in mid June. Mid season ones ripen August to September and late season varieties finish ripening in November. By choosing varieties with different ripening dates, one can stretch the harvest season to five months. Additionally, one can choose by predominant use, such as juicing versus pies versus fresh eating. Below are descriptions of some of the "tried and true" performers for our area. There are certainly others, so don't take this as an exhaustive list.

Akane - Ripens first 3 weeks of August, one of the top taste test winners at multiple tastings. Arkansas Black - Ripens late September - October, mostly eaten fresh, tart flavor with firm, dry texture Disease-tolerant. Discovered in Arkansas around 1870, Braeburn - October harvest. Very high quality fruit. Susceptible to water core, mildew, bitter pit, and fireblight. Eaten fresh and for juice. Crisp texture and excellent flavor. Commercial variety introduced in New Zealand around 1940. Cox's Orange Pippin - Ripens around September 20. English variety with tender, juicy flesh, with rich flavor. It has long been considered the best fresh eating apple. Also used for applesauce and cooking. Empire - Ripens mid August to mid September. Flesh is cream colored, crisp, juicy, with a sprightly flavor and produces very well in this area. Medium - small fruit great for children's' school lunch box. Beautiful rich red skin that polishes to a high shine. Excellent quality fruit, best for fresh eating, doesn't store long. Excellent sugar acid balance. My personal favorite for fresh eating! Macintosh and Red Delicious cross introduced in 1966 in USA.

Esopus Spitzenburg - Late September - October 1 ripening. Grown in USA for over 200 years. Crisp, tasty rich and juicy; eaten fresh and for baking and juicing. Red and green skin color. Thought to be a parent of Jonathan. Fuji - Ripens mid-September to mid-October, pinkish red blush, crisp, juicy flesh. Very sweet and mild flavor. Eaten fresh. Stores well. Susceptible to fireblight. Tends to be alternate bearing. Japanese variety introduced in 1939. Gala - August ripening. Skin bright scarlet striped over yellow. Dense aromatic flesh with sprightly flavor. Eaten fresh. Fruit tends to be small. Excellent fresh eating and good keeper. Susceptible to fireblight. Developed in New Zealand in 1962. Gravenstein - Late July-August ripening, medium large fruit with a short fat stem. Skin greenish yellow overlaid with red stripes. Excellent flavor when fully ripe, crisp, subacid and aromatic; a good sauce and pie apple. Stores and ships poorly and has a high percentage of windfalls. Must have cross pollinizer. Golden Delicious - Late August-September ripening, conic-shaped apple with a long stem, yellow to green skin, yellow flesh, russet dots, mildly sweet rich flavor, juicy and fine textured. High quality apple for fresh eating, salads, juicing and baking. It stores well but is susceptible to bitter pit, bruising and russeting. Granny Smith - Late October - November ripening, crisp, juicy with sweet-tart green flavor. Uniformly green skin, with medium - large round to slightly conic shaped fruit. Susceptible to powdery mildew, bitter pit and fire blight. Harvest late to increase sweetness. Very long keeper. Excellent pie and fresh eating. Jonagold - September-October ripening, large fruit, red stripes over lively yellow green. Round oblong shape, cream-colored flesh, moderately firm, crisp, juicy, full flavored excellent sugar to acid balance, one of the best tasting in numerous taste tests, good for cooking, juicing and fresh eating, stores well. Developed in U.S.A. in 1968. Jonathan - Mid August-September ripening. A round red apple with pure white flesh, crisp, juicy and slightly subacid. Excellent for eating fresh, sauce and juice. Highly susceptible to mildew, fireblight and Jonathan spot. Mutsu - Mid- September to mid- October ripening. Golden Delicious cross introduced in 1949 in Japan. Crisp with delicately sweet flavor eaten fresh and in baking. Newtown Pippin - Early October ripening. North American apple from mid-18th century. Crisp with complex flavors. Multiple uses, long keeper. Best if left onto to tree until starts to get a yellowish cast. Red Delicious - Late August-September ripening. A conic-shaped apple with a tapered base and five distinct lobes. Skin color varies from solid red to a mixture of red and green stripes. The flesh is yellow, crisp, sweet and mild flavored. There are many strains, fruit is primarily eaten fresh and stores well. Originated in Iowa in the 1870s. This is too mild for my tastes.

Some of these varieties may not be easily found at local nurseries, but may be special ordered. Check with your local chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers for their Annual Scion Exchange in January each year.

GRAFTING If you'd like to have more than one variety of apple, but don't have the room for several trees you can plant up to 4 trees in one hole about 18" apart from one another and treat as a multi-trunk single tree. You can also multi-graft 3-5 varieties onto one tree. The mix of varieties may include; a long keeper such as Granny Smith; a tasty fresh eating variety such as Empire; a good sauce and pie apple such as Gravenstein; and maybe an heirloom which has flavor to die for such as Braeburn and/or Cox's Orange Pippen.

FRUIT THINNING Shortly after "June drop" occurs (usually 3/4" size fruit), thin out to no more than three fruit per cluster, preferably to only 1 fruit if fruit set is heavy. Space clusters 4"- 6" apart on branches. Try to find and thin off those fruit with evidence of codling moth damage (very small black hole near blossom end). Rake up those and all early drops and dispose of fruit to prevent codling moth from pupating in soil.

STORAGE Fruit should be stored as close to 34 degrees as possible in ventilated plastic bags in produce drawers in bottom of refrigerator. There is a wide difference in storage life from one variety to another, such as Granny Smith or Pippen lasting up to 8 months and Empire only 3 weeks.

ROOTSTOCKS Many trees now come labelled with the type of rootstock onto which they are grafted. The following explains why you may want to select trees on specific stocks.

Seedling: Used for non-irrigated sites, low vigor sites, and for weaker varieties. It is very vigorous, produces large, full-sized trees that come into bearing late (7-10 yrs.). It is susceptible to woolly apple aphid. Trees can fill a 30x30 ft. spacing and grow 20 feet tall.

M111: Semi-Dwarf rootstock that usually produces a tree 80% the size of a tree on seedling. It tolerates varying soil conditions, is somewhat resistant to Phytophthera root rot, fireblight and woolly apple aphid, imparts earlier bearing than seedling, but not as early as more dwarfing stocks. M106: Semi-Dwarf rootstock produces a tree about 65-75% the size of a tree on seedling. It provides good anchorage, imparts early bearing, is easily propagated, and is resistant to woolly apple aphid and somewhat resistant to fireblight. This stock requires irrigation. Tree spacing ranges from 20x18 ft. to 8x14ft.. M7a: Semi-dwarf rootstock produces a tree about 60% the size of a seedling rooted tree. It performs well in irrigated replant situations, but tends to sucker, is resistant to fireblight and is susceptible to woolly apple aphid. Imparts early bearing. M26: Semi-Dwarf to dwarfing rootstock that produces a tree 40 to 50% the size of a tree on seedling. It has performed very poorly in Santa Clara County and may need a support system. It is extremely susceptible to fireblight. M9: Dwarfing rootstock which produces a very small tree 25-33% the size of a seedling rooted tree. It is poorly anchored with a brittle root system which requires support. It has become widely planted commercially because of its early bearing and high yields per acre. M27: Dwarfing rootstock even more dwarfing than M9. PEST PROBLEMS The most common and bothersome problem is wormy apples, which is caused by codling moths. It may suffice to hang two pheromone traps in each apple or pear tree to keep the codling moth damage to a minimum. Additionally hand thin all infested fruit, pick up and throw in garbage the fruit that has fallen early because of infestation, remove boxes and debris under and around trees on which moths have overwintered. If this doesn't reduce the problem sufficiently, an insecticide spray can be applied 10 days after petal fall and again at two week intervals 2-3 times (more for later maturing varieties).

Revised 05/2008

Birds
By Sandra Todd last updated: Sep-2002 Birds include crows, doves, pigeons, starlings, house sparrows, songbirds, vultures, woodpeckers, and all other birds. Most birds causing problems in gardens are classified as migratory non-game birds according to the U.S. Code of Federal Regulations and are protected. Starlings, house sparrows, and pigeons, however, may be controlled without

a permit if they are causing damage to your home or garden. Remind callers that birds have enormous value as insect eaters, and to protect their role in the garden microcosm, we emphasize scaring away or excluding birds from access to home or garden.

What You Can Do

Dont encourage birds by providing feeders and water. Discourage nesting on your property by removing nests or installing sheeting or spikes to make ledges inhospitable. Cover plants such as tomatoes and fruit trees with netting. Use Mylar Scare Tape, hanging CDs, plastic owls or scarecrows. Go out and shoo the birds. Get an automatic water sprinkler scarecrow Call the Audubon Society.

What You Cant Do

All birds except starlings, house sparrows, and pigeons are protected. Starlings, house sparrows and pigeons can be trapped with a permit issued by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service or by authorization from the local County Agricultural Commissioner. However, as the matters of disposing of a live bird or having to kill a live bird next present themselves, we do not recommend trapping. However, if one is trapped it may be taken to the Wildlife Center (3027 Penitencia Road, San Jose 95132) where it will be cared for and then released in another area.

No firearm, pellet gun, B B gun or slingshot may be used in any city or unincorporated residential area of Santa Clara County. Toxic baits and repellents are used to control bird damage in some agricultural situations; however they are not recommended for garden-type problems because of the potential damage to people or pets.

Pocket Gophers
Last updated: Jan-2004 Pocket Gophers are among the most frustrating of all pests in the garden. They feed on the roots of plants killing them. Horseshoe shaped mounds of fresh soil are one sign of their presence in the garden. Gophers do not hibernate, live alone (except when breeding) and have 1-3 liters per year.

What you can do

Gophers are nongame mammals and may be killed or trapped anytime or in any legal manner.

Trapping is an effective control method. There are two types of traps: the box trap and the Macabee trap. The box trap is easier to use if one has not used a trap before but requires more excavation. Traps should be set in pairs facing opposite directions

Poison baits require placement in the gophers main tunnel and taking care to be sure that light is eliminated from the run. A probe is useful in placing the bait. Check for fresh mounds each day to determine one s success. Wire baskets may be used to protect individual plants. Remove weeds creating a buffer band of bare soil may help.

Less Effective Methods

Flooding is usually not effective. Fumigation doesnt work because gophers seal off the tunnels. Repellents have not been proven to be effective by research Gophers become accustomed to frightening devices such as vibrating stakes, ultrasonic devices and wind powered pinwheels and then ignore them. Placing chewing gum and laxatives in burrows does not appear to work.

Maintenance
Constant checking for signs of gopher activity is essential to prevent reinvestation.

Resources
UC Pest Note on Pocket Gophers

Ground Squirrels
By Sandra Todd Ground Squirrels are classified as non-game mammals by the California Fish and Game Code. As such, they may be controlled in any legal manner. However, their range overlaps in some areas with other animals classified as threatened by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, such as the Mohave ground squirrel, the San Joaquin antelope squirrel, kit fox, kangaroo rats, the riparian brush rabbit, the riparian wood rat, as well as some endangered amphibians and reptiles. These animals are protected. As their existence could be impacted by some squirrel control techniques, it is important to contact your county agricultural commissioner for additional information before using such methods as fumigation and baiting.

What You Can Do

Fumigation is best used during spring when the soil is moist, which helps seal gasses in the burrow system. * Do not use fumigants where a fire hazard exists, as flames may be produced. Baiting is best done during summer and fall. Baiting is to be done during the daylight hours using an EPA approved bait for Ground Squirrel control. Trapping can be done all year and is practical for control when squirrel numbers are low to moderate. Live-catch traps are not recommended because they present the problem of how to dispose of the live animals. Remove brush piles and debris to make an area less desirable to ground squirrels. Shooting squirrels with a .22 rifle may provide some control in rural areas where ground squirrel population is low. It is not recommended because of the danger to people and non-target species.

What You Cant Do

Jaw traps are illegal to use in Santa Clara County and most of the State. It is illegal to release live ground squirrels without a written permit from the California Fish and Game Code (because they carry disease and are agricultural pests).

Resources
UC Pest Note: California Ground Squirrel

Tree Squirrels
Santa Clara County has several species of tree squirrels: the native Western Grey and Douglas squirrels, and the introduced Eastern Grey and Red Fox squirrels. Most tree squirrels are classified as game mammals by the California Fish and Game Code, and are protected. They can only be taken (killed) during hunting season. However, the most common as well as the most troublesome tree squirrel is the red fox squirrel, and this is not protected. It may be taken at any time and in any manner the land owner or tenant chooses that is legal. It is not legal to discharge any firearms, bee bee guns, pellet guns or slingshots in Santa Clara cities, suburbs or unincorporated suburban area of the county. It is legal to shoot the above mentions arms in unincorporated rural areas with permission of the sheriff.

What You Can Do

The best form of control is habitat modifications and squirrel proofing.

Close openings to attic vents with 1/2 inch hardware cloth. Prevent squirrels from traveling on wires by installing two-foot sections of lightweight 2-to-3 inch diameter plastic pipe. Slit the pipe lengthwise, spread opening and place over wire. The pipe will rotate on the wire and cause traveling squirrels to tumble.

Trim trees appropriately to prevent squirrels from jumping onto roofs. Encircle tree trunks with a two-foot wide collar of metal six feet from the ground to prevent squirrels from climbing trees. Hang bird feeders in an open area, or use squirrel proof feeders. Repellents such as human hair (from a barber shop), perfumed soap chips, rags soaked with baby shampoo, and cayenne pepper. Commercial repellents are also available.

What You Cant Do

NO POISON BAIT is registered for use against any tree squirrel. Trapping may be done with permits from California Department of Fish and Game, but the matter of disposal remains a problem if live trapping is used; therefore we do not recommend this method of control to our callers. See pamphlet Why Not Let Them Go? for further information.

Resources
UC Pest Note: California Tree Squirrel

Rabbits
Last updated: Feb-2004 Jackrabbits, cottontails, and brush rabbits are classified as game mammals by the California Fish and Game Code: however, there is an important distinction between the three species as to what type of control (i.e., kill or trap) is permitted.

What You Can Do

Jackrabbits may be killed or trapped anytime or in any legal manner by the owner, property tenant, or employees thereof if they are damaging crops or other property, which includes ornamental plants and irrigation lines. Cottontail or brush rabbits may be killed or trapped when the rabbits are damaging crops or forage. Fencing is the most long-term and effective way to protect plants from rabbit damage. Use 48-inch-high wire fencing with 1 inch or smaller mesh. Bury the bottom 6 to 10 inches in the ground. Electric netting (a type of electric fence). Trunk guards. Repellents. Remove hiding cover. Get a guard dog or hunting dog.

What You Cant Do

Trapped rabbits cannot be sold or released. Cottontail or brush rabbits cannot be killed or trapped when the damage they are causing is to ornamental planting or to property. Frightening devices, such as noisemakers and flashing lights, are generally not effective and are annoying to neighbors. Toxic baits, which could easily get into another animal by eating the poisoned rabbits, may not be used.

Resources
UC Pest Note: Rabbits

Rats & Mice

Last updated: Feb-2004 Including:

Roof Rats (alias: Black Rat, Tree Rat) Norwegian Rats (alias: Sewer Rat, Brown Rat, Wharf Rat) Mice

What You Can Do

Thin or remove possible shelter, such as ivy Re-landscape using ground covers that do not encourage rats or mice Keep premises clean - no pet food, bird seed, dropped fruits or nuts, trash Stack firewood off the ground and away from the house Close all access points into the house (rodents have the ability to squeeze through small holes!) Traps Poisons

What Doesnt Work

Although electronic, sound, magnetic, or vibration devices are perfectly legal, they are not effective methods of control.

Resources
The House Mouse: Prevention and Control, Illinois Department of Public Health

Skunks
By: Sandra Todd Last updated: Jan-2004 Remember: skunks have some beneficial habits they eat insects and rodents.

What you Can Do

Make your yard inhospitable to skunks:

Remove outdoor pet food and water bowls. Store pet food in animal proof containers. Gardens should be harvested frequently and windfall fruit picked up. Food should never be intentionally left out for wild mammals. Seal up house from access, including porches. Slotted metal vent covers are preferable to screen wire in keeping skunks from entering houses through foundation vents. Offensive sprays (such as coyote urine). Shooting is permissible to remove skunks from unincorporated rural areas. Use beneficial nematodes in the spring to kill grubs, which are a favorite food of the skunk and the major cause of lawn damage. Call Santa Clara County Vector Control to come out and assess the situation. If Vector Control deems it necessary, they will trap the animal and dispose of it according to their regulations.

What Doesnt Work

We do not recommend trapping because of the difficulty of disposing of the live animal. However, live trapping is permissible in both urban and rural settings. There are no federally registered pesticides for control of skunks in or around buildings.

Resources
Managing Skunk Problems

Snakes
Last updated: Jan-2004 Most of the 33 species of snakes in California are harmless and very useful in keeping the rodent population under control. However, there are six species of rattlesnakes in the state and they are poisonous. Therefore, it is wise to be

careful when outdoors and watch where one is walking or placing ones hands and where one sits. Leave snakes alone. Poisonous snakes have triangular shaped heads and elliptical eyes. Nonpoisonous snakes have rounded heads and round eyes. Poisonous snake bites show two puncture holes made by fangs. Nonpoisonous snake bites look like upside down horseshoes. Rattlesnakes do not always rattle. In fact baby rattlers cant rattle until their first molt but can bite and are poisonous.

What One Can Do

If bitten, remain calm and quiet. Immobilize the bitten area. Draw on puncture mark with syringe or rubber suction kit from snake bit kit. Seek medical attention immediately.

What One Should Never Do

Cut on bite site. Never suck bite with mouth.. Never apply a tourniquet (it could result in amputation).

Resources
Facts about snakes in California (USGS)