Project 17901EZ:

Veneered End Table

A curly birch veneer adds an especially distinctive look to this trestle style end
table. Adding further to its visual appeal is a border of veneer inlay and a mitered
birch frame. All other parts are made of birch solid stock, although as usual, just
about any kind of hardwood is also suitable.

Veneered End Table Materials List

Part Description Size No. Req’d
A Leg 3/4" x 9-3/8" x 19" 2
B Foot 1-5/8" x 1-5/8" x 11" 2
C Support 1-3/8" x 1-3/8" x 9-3/4" 2
D Cleat 3/4" x 3/4" x 8" 2
E Stretcher 1/2" x 2 x 19-3/4" 1
F Peg 3/4" x 3/4" x 2-1/2" 2
G Top 1/2" x 10-5/8" x 19-5/9" 1
H Veneer As required.
I Inlay As required
J Short Top Frame 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 15" 2
K Long Top Frame 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 24" 2
Veneered End Table Complete
Schematic
Veneered End Table Step-by-Step
Instructions
1. Cut the top (G) from 1/2" fir plywood to overall length and width.
2. Make sure the corners are square.
3. Choose a finer veneer for the top of part G.
4. Choose an inexpensive type of veneer such a poplar for the bottom of part
G. NOTE: Both the top and bottom of the plywood will require veneer in
order to equalize stresses.
5. Apply the veneer to both sides of the top so that it runs at right angles to the
grain direction of the face veneer on the plywood. NOTE: The grain of fir
plywood will eventually telegraph through.
6. Use a dado head cutter and, working carefully to avoid splintering the ve-
neer, cut the 5/ 16" x 5/16" rabbet around the perimeter of the top.
7. Cut the frame parts (J and K) to size.
8. Use a shaper to cut the groove for the veneer inlay.
9. Glue the inlay in place and allow to dry.
10. Cut the miter.
11. Make repeated passes over the table saw blade to cut the 1/4" wide x 3/8"
deep groove.
12. Drill holes at the miters to take 3/8" diameter by 1-1/2" long dowel pins.
13. Glue and clamp parts J and K to the top and allow to dry overnight.
14. Cut the remaining parts to the dimensions shown.
15. Sand, stain, and finish each individual piece prior to assembly and allow to
dry.
16. Place the top face down on a pad to prevent scratching.
17. Locate one cleat on the top.
18. Drill pilot holes for the cleat screws, being sure to use a depth stop so you
do not drill through the top.
19. Attach the cleats with screws as shown.
20. Place one end of the stretcher in the leg slot.
21. Locate the other end of the stretcher so that the ends are square with the top.
22. Fasten the stretcher with screws as indicated.
23. Turn the table upright.
24. Insert the pegs into slots with thumb pressure or a light tap to complete the
project.

These plans were originally published in Volume 6, Issue 5 of The Woodworker’s

Journal (Sept./Oct. 1982, pages 30-31).