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Emulsifiers Emulsifiers are used in creams and lotions to mix water with oils.

Since water a nd oil do not mix but stay separated, an additional agent (emulsifier) is necess ary to form a homogenous mixture keeping water and oil together. There are 2 typ es of emulsifiers. Oil-in-water (o/w) emulsifiers keep oil drops packed in water , while water-in-oil (w/o) emulsifiers keep water drops packed in oil. W/O emuls ifiers are used for a fatty feel (e.g night & sun protection creams). O/W emulsi fiers are used more in moisturizing products (e.g. body lotions, day creams). Emulsifying Wax: What is it and how does it work? Emulsifying wax is one of the essential ingredients in making lotions and creams . Think of it as the glue that will hold your recipe together. We ve all seen how oi ly salad dressings separate after sitting for a while. You then shake the bottle until it appears to be mixed, but if you look at it closely, you will see littl e balls of the oil suspended in the liquid. Left to sit, the dressing will again separate into its different properties. Lotions and creams are created from a mixture of water and oils. Without the add ition of emulsifying wax, they too would separate back into water and oils. Adding emulsifying wax to your recipe will keep the oil and water from separatin g by creating an emulsion between the oil and water. An emulsion is a system con sisting of a liquid dispersed in an immiscible liquid. Immiscible means not comp atible: not able to mix together to make a solution. Oil and water are a great e xample of two immiscible liquids. Emulsifying wax will also thicken your creatio n. If it were not included in your recipe, you would end up with a mixture that is similar to the consistency of salad dressing! Everyone knows that oil and wat er don t mix, so how does the wax accomplish this seemingly impossible task? Emulsifiers actually work on a molecular level, by attracting both water and oil to different sites at the same time. Water is a polar material. Things that lik e water are also called polar materials. Polar materials are also called hydroph ilic. Hydrophilic materials are water-loving materials. Non-polar materials like olive oil are hydrophobic. Hydrophobic means water hating. An emulsifier has a hydrophilic portion and a hydrophobic portion. This essentially means that it ca n effective bind both water and oils. It means that some structures of the emuls ifier attract oil, while others soak up water like a sponge. Each part traps the liquid keeping it from breaking free to separate. As an added bonus, because th e oil remains mixed with the water, the wax actually helps the oil penetrate the skin, thereby replacing lost moisture. No, you don t have to be a chemist to enjoy making your own lotions and creams! Bu t you now know why emulsifying waxes are so important to your end product and ho w they work. Not only is the information useful in making soaps and lotions, but also your friends will be impressed with how smart you are! Choosing an emulsifier can be rather confusing, but learning a bit about those t hat are available will help you make a decision. The most common emulsifiers use d by hobbyists include: Emulsifying Wax NF, Cetearyl Alcohol/Ceteareth 20, Cetea ryl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Polysorbate 20, Ceteareth 20. Let's see what the differences are: Emulsifying Wax NF: Use this waxy material to emulsify your water and oils toget her. Usage varies based on the combination of thickeners but normal usage rates

are between 3 and 6% of the total weight of your recipe. This is one of the easi est emulsifiers to use and is used by most home crafters of lotions and creams. Cetearyl Alcohol/Ceteareth 20 - Used as an emulsifying wax in lotions, this is a waxy pastille that is used in concentrations of 2 and 6% of the lotion recipe a nd can be used in combination with emulsifying wax. This product creates a thick er, waxier end product, and is excellent for foot and elbow creams which traditi onally require a thicker, waxier cream. Cetearyl Alcohol - Fatty alcohol derived from natural oils and fats (cetyl and s tearyl alcohol) that can be used to thicken and stabilize formulations. Cetearyl Alcohol imparts an emollient feel to the skin. Recommended usage level: 1-25%. Glyceryl Stearate - Emulsifier and emulsion stabilizer. Typically used with anot her emulsifier, such as polysorbate 20 or ceteareth 20. Typical Usage Rate: .1-3 % Polysorbate 20 - Excellent oil in water emulsifier/solubilizer. For use in body mist, room spray, skin cleansers. Recommended use is 1/1 or 1/2 ratio of fragran ce oil or essential oil to polysorbate 20. Ceteareth 20 - Used in oil-in-water emulsions. Provides exceptionally stable emu lsions when used in combination with another emulsifier such as glyceryl stearat e. The waxes listed here do not reflect a complete list of the emulsifiers that are available, but they are some of the more popular ones used by the soap and loti on enthusiast. There are many recipes for making lotions and soaps, which will m ost likely indicate the type of emulsifier used and how much should be added to attain the desired effect. Knowing more about emulsifiers are used will help to take the mystery out of how and why they are used. You may even want to experime nt with your own concoction to create a product that is uniquely yours! How to Make a Moisturizing Lotion with Only 3 Ingredients September 20th, 2008 Ever wondered which ingredient makes up the largest percentage in lotions? Water ! If you look at the ingredients list on product labels, you will notice that wa ter is almost always listed first, meaning it is the most predominant ingredient in the product. And, it is also free and readily available. So what all are you p aying for? For less than a dollar and using common kitchen equipment, I want to show you ho w you can make a 12 oz batch of moisturizing lotion. That s even cheaper than your Wal-mart petroleum-based generic brand. Best of all, it is easy and fun! Skin care lotion is nothing more than an emulsion of oil and water. As an introd uction to this wonderful and useful craft, let s make a simple lotion with just ol ive oil, water, and emulsifying wax. Here s what you need to make approximately a 12 fl oz batch: Tools 1-cup glass measuring cup 2-cup glass measuring cup saucepan just large enough to fit the 1-cup measurer Ingredients 1/4 cup olive oil 1 1/4 cup water

1/4 cup emulsifying wax, available at some craft stores or online. Directions Fill a small saucepan with water and set it on medium low to use as a water bath . Combine the oil and e. wax into the heatproof 1-cup measurer and melt the mixtur e in the water bath. Fill the 2-cup measurer with water and heat it in the microwave on high for 2 mi nutes or until it boils. Alternatively, boil water on the stove and pour it into the measurer. When the oil/wax mixture has melted, pour it into the water. Your lotion should now have the consistency of skim milk. Let it cool slightly, stir with a spoon or chopstick and pour the lotion into a bottle while it s still warm and pourable. Otherwise, it would be hard to get the lotion into its container. If you re using a wide mouth jar, then this is not an i ssue. Leave the cap off to let it cool completely, but occasionally cap the lotion and give it a quick shake to help blend the mixture. That s IT!!! As is, this plain, scent-free lotion is great for babies and people with sensiti ve skin. But this recipe is very forgiving and you can easily vary it. Here are some suggestions: Substitute 1/4 to 1/2 cup of the water with glycerin to make a hydrating lotion. Substitute or combine the olive oil with other oils such as almond oil or coconu t oil Add essential oils. Use 1 2 drops per fl oz of lotion There is only one truly undisputed natural emulsifier. It is a beeswax/borax com bination and it takes some lab time to figure out the percentages. Too much borax and you get grit in your lotion and/or cream. Too much beeswax an d you get this glob that is only good for your notes on what not to do.

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