TM

A FEELING THAT LASTS

CORE SPINNING

By
 CORE SPINNING
INTRODUCTION
This brochure ASTM Method D 123 defines a core spun yarn as
describes “a compound structure in which a filament or strands
general serves as an axis around which a cover of either loose
practices for fiber or yarn is wound.” When the axis fiber is
producing core elastomeric, the yarn is considered a soft core yarn.
spun yarns with
DOW XLATM To produce elastic soft core spun yarns, the elastic
elastic fiber. core is drafted or stretched before wrapping with the
companion fiber. When the composite yarn is in a
relaxed state, the elastic core can retract or recover,
imparting stretch in fabrics in which it is incorporated.
In principle, any staple spinning system can be used to
produce soft core yarns. Recommendations in this
brochure are specific to cotton and polyester/cotton
blend yarns spun on short staple ring systems.
Please contact a Dow representative for recom-
mendations with respect to other spinning systems
and yarn blends.
WHAT IS DOW XLATM FIBER?
DOW XLA fiber is an olefin-based elastic fiber from
The Dow Chemical Company. Due to its chemical and
thermal properties, DOW XLA fiber is singularly suited
to deliver a soft hand, comfort stretch, dimensional
stability, and durable elasticity to stretch fabrics.
1 CORE SPINNING
SHIPPING AND STORAGE
DOW XLA elastic fiber is supplied on tubes, approx-
imately 146 mm in diameter with 58 mm wide cores.
These tubes will fit the gauge of most spinning frame
core creels. For those creels with a wider gauge
(e.g., 87 mm), it is recommended that spacers be used
between spools to help keep them in position.
DOW XLA fiber performs best in core spinning when
the storage guidelines outlined below are followed:
1. Apply “first in – first out” stock rotation.
2. Store fiber in sealed boxes below 30°C (86°F).
3. Spools should be used within 12 months of
production date. (See explanation for the sticker inside
the cone outlined in the next section.)
4. Partially used spools should be returned to boxes,
sealed, and stored as noted above.
INFORMATION INSIDE THE CONE
Inside of the cone is a sticker that contains 3 lines of
letters and numbers. Each line contains valuable
information that is explained below:
1. Line one is a 5-character code consisting of 2 letters,
then 2 numbers, followed by 1 letter.
First letter is the year. S = 2004, T = 2005, U = 2006,
V = 2007, W = 2008, etc.
Second letter is the month. A = Jan, B = Feb, C = Mar,
D = Apr … L = Dec
Characters 3 and 4 are numbers that represent the day
of the month, range is 01 to 31.
The last letter is the production site.
S = Tarragona, Spain.
2. Line two is a series of 3 numbers, each separated by
a blank space. This helps us determine the production
line and position used to manufacture that spool of
fiber.
3. Line three identifies the fiber denier of the spool.
SPINNING
Frame parameters
The following spinning frame parameters are recom-
mended for use in the production of core spun yarns
containing DOW XLA elastic fiber. If your equipment
does not meet these recommended parameters, please
contact a Dow representative to discuss procedures for
your equipment.
Gauge
The distance between the spindle center lines is the
gauge of the spin frame. To reduce the occurrence
of sheath damage due to balloon contact with
separators, 75 mm and 82.5 mm gauges are recom-
mended for fine and coarse count core spun yarns,
respectively.
Spin Geometry/Spin Ratios
Proper spin geometry is important to control spinning
tension and reduce the occurrence of break backs and
core breaks during spinning. Generally, it is better
to use a large bobbin diameter with a small ring
diameter – specifically a ring diameter to bobbin
diameter ratio of 2:1. A maximum bobbin length to
ring diameter ratio of 5:1 should be used to ensure
that the angle of pull is greater than 30 degrees.
Longer bobbins relative to ring diameter lead to higher
tensions. This rule should be followed for cotton,
synthetic, and blended yarns to help prevent core
breaks, scuffing of the fibers, and dyeing problems.
Figure 1 (page 3).
Top Cot Hardness and Load
Softer front rolls with lower nip pressures are recom-
mended to reduce probability of core damage in the
front nip. Therefore, the lowest Shore A front rool and
load spring feasible without jeopardizing yarn quality
should be installed. Front rolls with Shore A hardness
of 65 to 72 have been used with success, along with
roll loads of around 30 pounds of force (lbf).
2 CORE SPINNING
Drafts
The draft of the core determines the power of the yarn
and also affects the coverage (how uniformly and
tightly the sheath covers the core). Due to the unique
load-elongation response of DOW XLA elastic fiber,
higher drafts are recommended, as compared to
spandex core spun yarns. Figure 2 (below) shows
recommended drafts based on denier. The winding
denier of DOW XLA fiber on the spools is the same
as the stated denier. There is no pre-drafting during
fiber production. Therefore recommended drafts are
machine drafts with no need for pre-draft calculations.
Travelers
Selection of traveler weight is critical to control
spinning tensions and core coverage. Proper traveler
weight selection requires some experimentation
to ensure balloon stability and good bobbin build and
density. The lower retractive force of DOW XLA fiber
dictates lighter traveler weights than those typically
used in spinning soft core yarns. Traveler weights one
to two numbers lighter than those used with spandex
are a good starting point for selecting travelers for core
spinning with DOW XLA fiber. Please see Figure 3
(page 3) for a visual reference depicting optimal
yarn tension in core-spinning with DOW XLA fiber.
For additional assistance in selecting traveler profiles
and weights, please contact a Dow representative.
Spinning Speed
Selecting spindle speeds is a function of frame
geometry, ring diameter, twist multiple, traveler type,
and yarn count. For example, finer yarns spun on
smaller rings using lighter travelers can run at higher
spindle speeds. Conversely, lower spindle speeds are
required for coarser yarns spun on larger rings using
heavier travelers. As a general rule, traveler speeds
below 23 m/sec are recommended for core spun yarns
containing DOW XLA fiber. The corresponding spindle
speeds for different ring diameters are presented in
Figure 4 (page 4). Before spinning at higher than
recommended speeds, please consult a Dow repre-
sentative to discuss spinning parameters.
Filament Centering
As with all core-spun yarns, care must be taken to
maintain the core filament in the center of the sheath
fibers. Alignment should be set accurately at the start of
spinning and checked periodically. The DOW XLA fiber
should be centered to the sliver. The V-guide used to
position the sliver should have little to no side-to-side
movement which may effect the centering of the core
fiber.
Ne 7 10 14 20 24 30 40 50 60 80
Nm 12 17 24 34 40 50 70 85 100 135

3 CORE SPINNING
Start Up Procedure for Core Spinning
For quality yarn production, the following start up
procedure is recommended:
1. Verify that all rolls, v-guide, and creels are free of
any fiber, roving or yarn wraps. Any laps that occur
during spinning should be removed prior to piece
up of the broken end.
2. Make sure the roving traverse is disengaged.
3. Set the ring rail movement for a fast up stroke and
slow down stroke. This motion is preferred for
lower ends down rate, better balloon stability,
and longer traveler and ring life.
4. Insert the appropriate gears for the target yarn
count, twist, and core draft.
5. Install the lowest Shore A front roll and load spring
feasible without jeopardizing yarn quality.
6. Install the recommended traveler.
7. Creel in the appropriate roving.
8. Creel in the core. Spools should be handled with
care to avoid scuffing, denting, or bruising. Spools
that have been bumped or dropped should be
checked for damage prior to installation in the creel.
9. Piece up the yarn and verify core position.
The v-guide or roving should be adjusted so that
the core is centered in the middle of the roving
ribbon.
4 CORE SPINNING
10. Run approximately 100 meters of yarn, collecting
4 bobbins to verify that yarn count, twist level,
and core draft are correct.
11. Begin core spinning.
12. After 3 to 4 hours of production, select a minimum
of 5 bobbins from each side of the frame and test
for yarn count, evenness, and physical properties.
13. Doff and discard the start up bobbins to eliminate
inclusion of piece up yarn in cones.
Conditioning/Steaming
For most applications of core-spun yarns with DOW XLA
fiber, yarn steaming is not recommended or required.
If necessary for acceptable weaving performance,
core-spun yarns containing DOW XLA fiber can be
steamed. Steaming will stabilize the core-spun yarn and
temporarily reduce the retractive force of the DOW XLA
fiber.
1) Optimum steaming temperature for greige yarns
with DOW XLA fiber is 50-60°C.
2) Optimum steaming temperature for yarns with
DOW XLA fiber for yarn dyeing is 85-90°C.
Steaming yarns containing DOW XLA fiber does not
lower the shrinkage potential of the yarns, but does
lower the retractive force of the yarn. This means that
steamed yarn may not give the desired stretch result
in tight fabric constructions, coarse yarns, or heavy
fabrics. Fabric construction, denier selection for the
DOW XLA fiber, and finishing processes may need to be
modified to achieve desired stretch if high-temperature
yarn steaming (or yarn dyeing) is required.
 WINDING
Key Parameters
A defect unique to soft core yarns is the short core
void, characterized by small, broken sections of elastic
fiber along the length of the yarn. Appropriate winding
conditions are key to preventing this type of defect.
Specific winding parameters of importance are cradle
pressure, winding speed (and program), and winding
tension.
Cradle Pressure
Typically, cradle pressure is controlled using a counter
balance, where increasing pneumatic pressure lifts the
cradle and reduces drum/cone contact pressure. Cradle
pressure also affects the package density – lower cradle
pressures produce softer, less dense cones. It is
important to find the optimum pneumatic pressure to
produce firm cones without causing core breakage.
This section Some experimentation may be required to identify
covers general this optimum balance. In comparison to spandex-based
comments products, core spun yarns made with DOW XLA elastic
on winding fiber should be wound at lower cradle pressures. As a
parameters. starting point, lower the cradle pressure by setting
For winding the pneumatic pressure in the range of 3.0 - 3.5 bar.
conditions
for a specific
make and Winding Speed
model winder, Depending on yarn count and equipment limitations,
please consult it is feasible to wind core spun yarns made with
a Dow DOW XLA elastic fiber at speeds averaging from
representative. 750 meters/minute to 1000 meters/minute. Critical to
speed selection are yarn count, yarn strength,
and speed program options. Yarns finer than 30/1 Ne
and yarns containing 20 and 40 denier DOW XLA
core yarns may require winding speeds as low as
700 meters/minute. Preferred programs are variable
speed options – those that allow winding speed to
decrease as the bottom portion of the bobbin is
approached (where the tension is highest). By varying
the speed, yarn quality can be improved, production
increased, and piece bobbins due to yarn breaks
reduced. A reasonable program for core spun yarns
containing DOW XLA elastic fiber begins speed
reduction when 70% of the yarn length on the bobbin
has been wound, with a final winding speed 20% less
than the initial winding speed.
5 CORE SPINNING
Winding Tension
Yarn tension during winding affects package density
and yarn quality. As a general rule, tension disks should
be adjusted so that the average tension during winding
is approximately 15% of the yarn’s breaking strength.
Winders with auto-tension programs further reduce
the probability of core breakage by adjusting disk
tension and/or winding speed when yarn tension
exceeds a predetermined level. Check with the
equipment supplier regarding use of this option.
Package Size
Four to 5 pound packages can be wound with core
spun XLA™ yarns that are to be knit or woven in greigh
form and then dyed once in fabric. To ensure uniform
dying of package dyed yarns the core spun XLA™ yarns
should be wound with minimal tension and wound into
much smaller packages, typically 3/4 to 1.5 pounds.
Start Up Procedure for Winding
1. Verify that machine parameters are set to
recommended levels.
2. Make sure all winder surfaces are clear of dust, yarn,
or core fragments.
3. Install specified cone.
4. Bobbins will feed to each position (automatically
or by hand).
5. Start winding operation.
6. Check for core fragments, especially on landing
behind cone.
7. If core fragments are found, stop production and
re-check winder settings.
8. Clean winder surfaces prior to restart.
 For more information about XLA fiber by DOW:
TM
www.dowxla.com
or call:
Europe: +32 3 450 22 40
US and Canada: +1 800 441 43 69
A FEELING THAT LASTS Mexico: +95 800 441 43 69
Asia Pacific: +603 7 958 33 92

NOTICE: No freedom from any patent owned by Dow or others is to be inferred.

Because use conditions and equipment may differ from one location or application to another
and may change with time, Customer is responsible for determining whether products
and the information in this document are appropriate for Customer's use and intended applications.
Dow assumes no obligation or liability for the information in this document.
NO WARRANTIES ARE GIVEN; ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY
OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE ARE EXPRESSLY EXCLUDED.

TMTrademark of The Dow Chemical Company (“DOW”) or an affiliated company of Dow CORE SPINNING Form No. 724-10701-1006 EST