Vous êtes sur la page 1sur 30

VOL 4 NO.

2 ISSUE 20
FROM THE EDITORS OF WOOD
I
\
try
}
T1:I">",wom tutti
Table Saw-e-Joi ' I '
Thickness piiiiiEJr---
Mortising Table ,
Spinale Shsper
The Ideal Woodworking SystemFor the Craftsmen of the '90's
The uCraftsmen of the '90's" (according to the experts)
will fall into one of three categories; Executives looking for
a hobby that will relieve the stress associated with long
hours at a desk, Artist/Entrpreneurs who will seek to
prove that quality furniture and home accessories don't
necessarily come from an assembly line (and that you
really can be your own boss), and Retirees who want to
stay active while creating things of beauty for family and
friends (either for extra income or just for the fun of it).
The K-5 offers every woodworker (even the ones the
experts forgot] a perfect blend of precisian, capacity,
space economy and reasonable price. Our engineers
have avoided gimmicks like electronic readouts and
bulky attachments in favor of dynamically balancr
cutterheads and a simple, straightforward drive Syb-
tern. Whether you're just starting out, or making a
change in your shop, call now to find out why the K-5
is the fastest growing system on the market today.
Dear Reader,
Tying up
loose ends
Man, oh man, we've had lots of busy days around the Weekend
Woodworking Projects office in the last few months. You see, the staff
has been breaking in a new managing editor.
That's right. Jim Harrold, whose words have graced these pages since
the beginning, has switched jobs with Yours Truly and now toils down
the hall at WOOD magazine as managing editor for our sister
publication. We wish him well.
Though I'm the new guy on the Weekend Woodworking Projects staff,
I'm no stranger to this fine magazine. In fact, before joining the WOOD
staff a few years ago, I wrote some of the project articles that appeared
in Issues I and 2. And over the years, I've sat in on a few of Weekend's
planning sessions. Gosh, we've even traded project designs on occasion.
I'm learning that the big challenge in my new job is locating and
approving the projects our staff t h i k ~ you'll want to build. So how do
we pull it off? It requires lots of contacts.
This job requires a fair amount of travel. I've already met some top--
notch designers at huge shows in Dallas; Charlotte, North Carolina;
Greenville, South Carolina; Los Angeles; Washington; and Philadelphia.
You'll see some of their work in upcoming issues.
But many of our best ideas arrive by mail from you, the reader.
Nothing pleases us more than to open an envelope that contains a
reader's prized design. It's great to know that we have proud readers
who want to show off their talent and share it with other woodworkers.
So naturally, we always welcome your project suggestions and ideas.
(And yes, we pay to publish designs, too.)
With that said, let's get on with the show!
A helpful reader from Wichita Falls, Texas, has a great suggestion to
pass along for the turned telephone featured in Issue 18 (November
1990). Richard Reams found that brown cord used for bolo (Western)
ties is an excellent substitute for c1oth-covered electrical cord. For $2.50
ppd., a Wichita Falls store will happily supply you with the cord you
need for one project. Send your orders to: Michael's Inc., 4106 CaUfield
Rd., Wichita Falls, TX 76308.
We have a new source for the parts to build the colonial-style lantern
featured in Issue 13. For a complete kit, send $28 ppd. to The Lamp
Shop, 3215 Forest Ave., Des Moines, IA 5031 t. Phone 515/255-7170.
CHECK OUT THESE TIPS AND JIGS
Spacing a cabinet door for hanging-page 9.
Scoring outlines before painting-page t 5.
A wooden compass to draw large arcs-page 1B.
Plywood sliding table for trimming panels-page 22.
Note: To find these tips, turn to the pages and look for the tinted numbers.
Carl Voss
Managing Editor
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS MARCH 1991 3
WEEKEND
WOODWORKING
MARCH 1991 VOL 4, No.2, ISSUE 20
4
6
Country
clock
If your taste in furnishings leans toward country styling, we
think this charming timepiece will impress you. We've turned
back the clock on a design by antiquing the face and by
treating the wood to a multilayered country finish.
12
Scoop
chair
Even before you have a chance to sink into this
lounger, you'll appreciate the straightforward design
that requires just one tablesaw setup. When you're
finished, listen to friends and relatives rave about
your workmanship: Looks great! More comfortable!
14
puzz,ed
pussycat
The pur-r-r-fect gift for feline fans.
this project will be fun to build.
And with our full-sized pattern
with complete detail lines. you can
paint your pussycat to look every
bit the character ours does.
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECT'S MARCH 1991
18
Organized
baseball
Does your Little Leaguer have a
slump every time equipment gets
misplaced1 You'll be a hit with
yOUT favorite player when you
build this handy organizer.
20
Gateleg
table
When an overflow crowd
arrives for dinner, swing this
table into action and double
its size. But until then, the
narrow version will look
great behind a sofa or
along a wall.
26
Red-hot
fire truck
Extinguishing boredom won't be
a problem with this chubby
ladder truck; It will keep
young children busy for
hours. Alarmingly simple.
,...-- l
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECT'S MARCH 1991
EDITORJAUART STAFF
Editor
lArry ClDyton
Managi"i Editor
OJrl Voss
Projects Editor
Charles E. Sommers
Projects Design Editor
James R. no"''';''8
Gl':Iphlc Designer
Mkhat'/ G. HQrring/()tl
Administnl.rive
Louise Andrnon
Project Build.....
lJoI'I Wipperman
[/1)11
Maguine Group Presldenl
James A. Autry
EdltGrial Dire<:tor
DorisEI>y
Publisller
William R. RNd
OrC'llLatlon DIrector
CkmSnrlr
OrC'\ll.ation
A/on Brwh
Director
Robel1 C Fur.uenau
Associate ProdllCl Manager
B,.,.nda Romano
W....kend Woodworking ProjU@(ISSN 1042.&09<1) is published
bimonthly in Jaooary, Marcil. May, July, """ November by
Meredith Corporation, 11 16 tOCllSt Street, Des Moines. tA 500J6_
Second-dass postage paid al Des MoInes. Iowa. an<! additional 01
!ices. SUSSCRIPTK)N PRICES, One yew $24.97 in Itle I)n;I\!d
an:l Its possessions. Canada and 0_ oounlries !KId $6 PIIf rear.
POSTMASTER, Send address charlQl!S to W....kend Wood......king
Projects, P.O. eo. 10815, Des MQnes, IA 50336. To p/>on(l, callcll-
Iree QOO.678--2666. Vol. 4, No. 2, March 199\.
ill COPYRIGHT MEREDITH CORPORATION, 1991. AU R'GHTS
RESERVl:O. PRINTEO IN USA
_0IAEl
For service on your substription, including
change of address, please write to:
Weekend Woodworking Projects
Customer Service, P.O. Box 10815, Des
Moines, IA 50336-0815. Please enclose
your address label from a recent issue. If
you wish to telephone, you may call toll-
..... 800-678-2666:
OUR PLEDGE TO YOU
Defore publication, we build every project
in Weekend Woodworking Projects step-
by-step in our shop. Then, a seasoned
team of editorS reviews the directions,
iUustrations, and Dill of Materials
of each wood project to make sure
the instructions we provide you are clear,
concise, and complete.
The Weekrnd Woodworking Proj/$ Stoff

5
COUNTRY CLOCK
';', \ :, a', ,0' :
'f,V,"j'l.," . ,
.... I. , ,
,
. ."n.....,.
'. 'c.>..j" 'f' 0
,'\0:,. G
\ .....,...
-,".. '. .'
.... '.'ffi .....,
... v
Ii'-" . 'Iii! '""" .
.. ,,'\, I " ... I
'I .
Jay Wallace, a technical illustrator from
Ashland, Oregon, spends most of his day
sketching outbuildings for his plan service,
Ashland Barns. But on occasion, he dreams
up smaller projects, too, The first time we
saw his country clock, we knew it would
fit right into many readers' homes.
Begin with the case
1
Starting with by 7
wide stock (we chose poplar be-
cause it paints well, but you can use
any type of wood), crosscut a 23!-2
long piece.
2
Cut three -wide dadoes JA"
deep across one face of the piece
where dimensioned on the Side
View drawing on page 8. (We made
these dadoes using our table-mount-
ed router, a :)4" straight bit, and a
miter gauge, but you can use a tab-
lesaw and dado blades to cut them
if you prefer.) After you've cut the
dadoes, rip this board into two
3M -wide pieces for the sides (A).
Now, rout or saw a rabbet
!4 deep along the inside back edge
of the two sides to accept the back
panel. (We formed the rabbets with
our router also.)
3
With double-faced tape, stack
the two side pieces together,
grooved face to grooved face, and
align along the edges and ends.
Next, copy the Side pattern found
on page 10 onto thin cardboard (we
used a manila file folder), and cut it
to shape. Include the heart in the
pattern and cut it out also. Next,
trace the pattern's CUlVe onto both
ends of the top piece of the stack.
(Note you will need to nip the pat-
tern upside down to mark the CUlVe
on the opposite end.) Now, handsaw
both of the marked ends to shape,
and sand the cuts. (We cut just out-
side of the lines, and then sanded to
the lines with a 2" drum sander on
our drill press.)
4
Rout a !4 N round-over along the
front outside edge of both side
pieces. Now, separate the pieces and
remove the double-faced tape. (We
used lacquer thinner to reJr.:JVe the
tape residue.)
5
Place the Side pattern on top of
one of the sides pieces again,
align the edges, and them scribe the
outline of the heart. Mark the sec
ond side piece the same way.
6 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS MARCH 1991

Lower back
Glue@here
r '--- "'"
,,_ \ I\
@Side )
4d finish nails
@Shelf
Bill of Materials
Port
flflidled Six,
T W l
t;
A
"'"
%-
P 2
B
"'"
%-
3'-

P 3
C
top"
.-
9%-
,.-
H
0

.-
9%- H
"ok
E
"""
%- ,-
B%-
P
,
F
glass
.. ..
,.- p
,
lelainer
G
dial
.-
,- 9-
P
,

H
dial

9-
P
,
retainer
Material key: P-poplar; H-haJdboard
Supplies: Vz" brass knob, 4d tinish nails,
%,"x16 brads. m"xlS brads, nails,
2-loop-type hangers, '1l1"-round magnetic
catch, l-ISxY2" flathead wood screw, Va"
plate glass, painllfinish.
Continued
,

Clock dial
G
clock dial
Clock
movement
H
Poplar
ploded View. If necessary, sand the
ends of the shelves to fit the
grooves. The case should measure
9" between the inside faces of the
side<> at the top, center, and bottom.
Finish-sand all pieces.
2
Glue, nail, clamp, and square
the case. (We used yellow wood-
worker's glue and 4d finish nails.)
Wipe off glue squeeze-out with a
damp cloth.
3
From 14 H hardboard, saw a
piece 16" long and wide enough
to fit snugly in the rabbets routed in
the back of the case. (The back
opening on our case measured
X23!h.".) Mark a centerline on
SECTION VIEW
Va" hole centered
'12" knob 5118"-diam. round magnetic
catch in 11/n" hole
V2" deep
Miler comers #8xYz"F.H.
wood screw
Vs" plale glass
Size mortise 10 fit
hinge blade
m
m ,<&

I
I ')

tjj "-' @ @ "-'



3(. x7V. x72"
CUTTING DIAGRAM
6
Drill a N start hole through
the center of the two hearts you
just traced. Cut the insides of the
hearts to shape. (We used our
scrollsaw with a #5 blade, but an
electric portable jigsaw will work,
too.) Sand the inside cut edges of
the hearts. (We wrapped sandpaper
around a 1W dowel to sand the in-
side edges of the bearts.)
7
From your H stock, rip and
crosscut three pieces to
314 X9!h.
H
for the shelves (B).
Now, assemble the case
1
Dry-fit the shelves in the side
grooves where shown on the Ex-
WEEKENDWOODWQRKING PROJECt'S MARCH 1991
Dial relainer
r---------j@0.:',,',-mO_"_oI__
1
lY2"X18 brads
'I Glass

10
10
_
_______________ 'I
- 9"..-Top back

wood screw !fa" rabbet
1,4' deep
) --9--

!il- #4xlh"R.H.
Rout 14' wood screw
o---"'roondovers
altel' assembly
the face of the piece. Now, from it
crosscut a 414"-long piece for the
top back (C), and one measuring
10%'" for the lower back (D).
4
Make full patterns of the Top
and Lower Back half-patterns
(include the heart and centerline on
each) shown on page 11.
S
Place the Top Back pattern on
the top back piece, align the top
comers and centerlines, and trace
the curves and heart outline. Trace
the Lower Back pattern and heart
onto the lower back. Scrollsaw the
back parts and hearts to shape.
6
Glue and nail both back pieces
in the back of the case where
shown on the Exploded View. (yVe
used ~ x 17 nails.)
7
Rout a J4" round-over along the
inside edges of the cabinet sides
and corner clamps.) Check the
frame for square. Remove the
clamps after the glue dries.
4
From ~ ~ material, rip and
crosscut four !4 X!4" glass re-
tainer strips (F) to 8" long. Miter-
cut the pieces to fit inside the door's
rabbet. Now, sand a slight round-
over along the outside edge on each
of the pieces.
S
From ~ ~ stock, rip and crosscut
a second I X40" strip. Next,
lower the saw blade. attach an aux-
iliary wood fence to your saw's rip
fence, and set the edge of it just
over the saw blade. Start the saw
and elevate the blade about I" into
the auxiliary wood fence. Stop the
blade and lower it to ~ above the
table. Set the fence to rip a rabbet
equal to the thickness of the clock
dial, along the length of the piece.
Saw the rabbet along one edge of
the strip as shown above left.
Note: See the Buying Guide at the
bottom of the column on page 9 for
our source for the dial, movement,
hands, and door hinges.
6
From this strip, miter-cut four
dial-mount pieces (G) to fit
within the 9"-square opening of the
clock case. Next, dry-fit the pieces
in the case and label them so you
and along the edges of the shelves.
as shown above lOp.
Make the door and
movement mount
1
To make the door frame, first
rip and crosscut a 40" length of
~ stock to 1 wide. Rout a !4~
round-over along one edge of the
piece. Now, rout a !4~ rabbet :}B"-
deep along the opposite edge where
shown on the Section View detail on
page 7.
2
From this 40" strip, miter cut
four 8111" lengths (long point to
long point, with rounded edge on
inside front) for the door frame (E).
Finish-sand the pieces.
3
Dry-fit the door frame. Next,
glue, clamp, and nail the frame
together. (We used I J 2 ~ X 18 brads
d.do
deep
,..--
I
I
I
-4
/
23Yt"
1/
'" ,
"'f
v." d
Q
.'
/
v."
7V."
I
I
I
L_
Country Clock
SIDE VIEW
8 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECT'S MARCH 1991
Dial mount
Note: If you wish to create the an-
tique look as shown on on our clock
case and dial, follow the painting in-
structions outlined on page JQ
3
Have a glass shop cut an
square piece of til" plate glass
for the door. Install the glass in the
rabbet, and then nail the retaining
strips in place with yg" X18 brads.
(We predrilled the nail holes in the
strips to avoid splitting them.)
4
Attach the clock works to the
dial, following the instructions
furnished with the clock. Install the
hands and battery.
5
Lay the clock case face up. Place
the dial face up in the rabbet of
the dial mount. Next, insert the 5/16"
round magnetic catch in the hole
you drilled in the top dial retaining
frame piece. Let the magnet pro-
trude Now, put the four dial-
retaining strips in position (painted
sides visible), and then carefully nail
them to the sides and shelves with
1 X18 brads. Set the brads.
6
Lay the clock case face down on
a firm surface. Attach (we used
screws) a loop-type hanger to each
of the side pieces on the back
from the top.
7
Attach the hinges to the door
and the case. Press the door
against the magnetic catch to mark
its position. Now, drill an 1V64" pi-
lot hole on the mark, and then drive
a 8X!-2. flathead wood screw into
the hole until the head is almost
flush with the surface of the door.
Finally, attach the door knob.
8
To hang the clock, nail two pic-
ture hangers in position on the
wall. Catch the hanger loops in
those hangers. Now, set the correct
time and get ready to enjoy your
handiwork for a long time.
Buying Guide
Clock kit. Clock movement,
dial, two * brass hinges. Cat-
alog no. 71059, $15 ppd. From:
Klockit, P.O. Box 636, Lake Gene-
va, WI 53147. Phone: 800-556-2548.
around them with a crafts knife.
Now, using a wood chisel, carefully
cut the mortises to a depth equal to
the thickness of the hinge leaves.
10
Drill pilot holes, and
then screw the hinges to the
door. Center the door in the open-
ing, and mark the hinge locations
on the case. Drill the pilot holes,
and screw the door to the case.
Mark the centerpoint for the door
knob, and drill a pilot hole !4"
deep for it. Remove the hinges.
Paint and finish assembling
your clock
1
Set all nails, fill the holes (we
used wood putty), let dry, and
then sand the surface flush. Sand all
parts with ISO-grit sandpaper.
2
Paint the case, door, all sides of
the glass-retaining strips (F), and
the two sides of the dial-retaining
strips (H) that will be visible.
-
-- -=
case side
Front of case shell
can mount them in the same place
later. Finish-sand the pieces.
7
Glue the dial mount pieces in-
side the case. (We used our pre-
set combination square as shown
above to uniformly position the
pieces 1 in from the front edge of
the case.) Clamp the pieces in place
until the glue has set.
8
From stock, rip a 40"-long
piece to square. From this
strip, miter-cut four 9"-long pieces
for the dial-retaining frame (H).
Finish-sand the pieces but do not in-
stall them yet. Drill an hole
deep for the mag-
netic catch in the center and Jh" in
from the right end of the top piece.
9
Dry-fit the door in the case. (We
allowed a clearance the thickness
of a dime between the case and the
sides of the door.) Locate the hinge
mortises on the door, starting 1"
from the top and bottom. Score
Project design; Jay Wallace Painter' susan Henry IIluslrations: Kim Downing; Carson Ode Photograph, Wm. Hopkins
Continued
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECT'S MARCH 1991 9
\
\
\
"
\
\
\
\
\
\
\
\
\
\
I
I SIDE PATTERN
\
\
r'
J
(
~ n with Iront edge
I
I
)
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
L _
If you'd like more infonnation about country
finishes, see the August 1990 issue of W o o D ~
magazine. For a copy of the article, send $2 and
a self.addressed, stamped business-sized envelope
to: Country Finishes., WOOD Magazine, P.O.
Box 11454, Des Moines., IA 50336-1454.
To antique the dial
1. Spray the face with clear Krylon matte 1311.
2. Brush on a coat of burnt umber thinned with
odorless turpentine (soft but not runny), then
wipe off most with soft paper towel.
3. While wet, rub with mop brush to blend.
4. Apply the dark specks (see Step 9 above).
5. Seal with a coat of clear Krylon matte 1311.
Try our antiquing process
Spending a little extra time on the flnish makes
a world of difference on a country project These
steps list the products we uSed; you'U find simi
lar product lines and colors in local crafts-supply
and art stores, and from mail-order sources.
To finish the wood
1. Seal surfaces with a water-based varnish.
2. Brush on a coat of walnut acrylic stain (Cer-
amcoat by Delta).
3. Apply a second coat of water-based varnish.
4. Brush on a coat of blue primer. (We used
Country Colors' stoneware blue by Accent.)
5. Apply the finish coat. (We used Delta's Cer-
amcoat acrylic burgandy rose.)
6. Sand lighlly with 32O-grit sandpaper, heavily
where you want the paint to appear worn away.
7. Apply an antiquing coat made up of anist's
oil colors (I part asphaltum by Shiva and 3 parts
Liquitex burnt umber) thinned with blending
and glazing medium (Winsor or Newton). Wipe
on this mixture with a good grade of paper tew-
elling, and then wipe it with a clean one.
8. To darken the comers, apply burnt umber
straight from the tube and feather it out by wip-
ing it with paper toweling.
9. To speckle the wood, mix burnt umber with
turpentine to paste consistency, dip a toothbrush
in the mixture, and then rub the bristles with
your finger to make it spatter the surface.
10. Seal with two coalS ofa Krylon matte 1311.
Count Clock
10 WEEKEND WOClD'o'oORKING PROJECTS MAROf 1991
Align swith corners on piece
@TOPBACK
@LOWERBACK
--l
I
I
I
I
I
Align with edge I
~ :
I
I
I
I
I
I
-;;;AU" od,,, wUh oome" '" ~ e
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I----------.J-_J
First, cut all paris with
one simple set-up
1
From a piece of 1\.7. x7lA X96"
white oak (also called 6<Iuarterl,
rip five B2"-square lengths. From
1~ X ~ X72" stock, rip three
I'hIf-square lengths.
2
Using the dimensions listed in
the Bill of Materials, and follow-
ing the Cutting Diagram opposite,
crosscut two A parts. two B's, two
C's, seven D's, and 10 E's from the
96" lengths. Cut five F parts from
the 72" lengths. (We lettered each
part after cutting it to length.)
Drill the holes, shape the
ends, and apply finish
1
Chuck a 17/64" bit into your drill
press, and then clamp a fence to
the drill-press table 11;32" from the
bit's center. Now. drill the holes
through the face side of all parts
where dimensioned on the Drilling
detail opposite. (To save time and
ensure accuracy, we clamped a stop
block to the drill-press table and
driUed the 38 holes 1JA" from one
end on all pieces [both ends on the
E'5] first. We repositioned the stop
block as needed to drill the remain
ing holes where dimensioned.)
2
Make a cardboard copy of the
End pattern opposite. and cut its
cut'YC to shape. Trace the outline of
the curve onto the top ends of all A,
12
Settle into comfort
SCOOP
CHAIR
When readers stop by our offices in Des
Moines for a tour and conversation, few
can resist relaxing in this folding chair
designed by Dan Gomes of Worcester,
N.Y. We think you will love it, too,
when you see how easy it is to make.
can work from either side. We
found it easier to assemble the chair
parts if a second person helps pull
the wood pieces together while you
align and push the Flexibolt
through the holes. Also, if the
threaded end of the bolt does not
center within the hole of the last E
piece-making it hard to thread on
the cap nut-remove the last few
pieces and bend the end of the bolt
slightly so it will center.)
4
With the back assembly still ly-
ing face up on the floor, layout
your seat parts (C, D) on top of it,
in the same order shown on the Ex-
ploded View. Now, as shown at cen-
ter right, insert the other long
Flexibolt through the pieces. ~ h r e a d
a cap nut about three turns onto the
end of that bolt.
S
Keeping the assembly in the flat,
unopened position, insert the
shortest Flexibolt through the holes
in the top of the chair back, as
shown lower right. Thread the cap
nut on the bolt three turns.
6
Insert the remaining Flexibolt
through the holes in the seat
fronl, pulling these pieces together
as you work. Thread the cap nut
onto the end of the bolt.
7
Stand the chair in the open posi-
tion. Now, one by one, tighten
all cap nuts an additional four to six
turns. Do not over-tighten.
WEEKEND W(X)DW()RKING PROJECTS MARCH 1991
'"!'
Flexibolt

o
B
DIAGRAMI
F
Buying Guide
Flexibolt kit. Set of four Flexi
bolts sized to fit this chair. Price:
$15 ppd. (New York residents
please add state sales tax). Order
from: Heartwood Furniture, P.O.
Box 9-P, Worcester, NY 12197-
CXX>9. Telephone: 607/397-8758.

lYlx7v.. x 96" Qak


,
I
Bill of Materials
.1
.....
Finlshtd sa.
1 T W l t
f,d I .."
A m" lW 45" 0
,
.I,v:"P
B m" m"
33f,,"
0
,
F{-"',,"
/45"
C 3m" 0
,
-;@
0 lW 14"
0 7
E 6W 0 10
F ,," 0 5
Mater1al key: Q.while oak
SUpplies: Frish.

Cutcu,,",

END PATTERN
Note: Dan Gomes holds four us.
patents on his Scoop choir and Flex;
bolts. These plans are preY!nred for
your personal use only. The mass
manufacturing and sale o/Ihis chair
or chair design is not pennilted; da-
ing so will be considered a patem in-
fn"ngement Scoop and Flexibolt are
trademarks of Heartwood Furniture.
.. -
DRILLING DETAIL
Project Design: Dan Gomes, Worcester, N.Y. llIumalions: Kim Downing; Carson Photograph: Wm. Hopkins
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECt'S MARCH 1991 13
PUZZLED
PUSSYCAT


. . .


MARC 1991
Yipes! Stripes!
Cat fanciers and children will be clawing at
you to build this project. Our pattern, with "
its painting guide, will make finiSh_i_ng_as
simple as painting by number. . __
2
While the paint on the cat body
parts dries, paint the CAT let-
ters burgundy. Also, paint the cat's
muzzle, tail tip, and paws antique
white or light tan.
3
Paint the brown stripes. (We
used burnt sienna.) For a three-
dimensional effect, paint stripes
across the edges and back of the cat,
too. While the body stripes dry, add
the brown ears and stripes to all
sides of the cat's face.
4
For the inside of the ears and
the nose, apply a coat of light
magenta. After that dries, accent
the area by diluting red to create a
dark pink. Paint the tongue red.
S
Outline the eye area and inside
the %l n holes with yellow paint.
Add freckles (dots for whiskers) and
toe lines by applying dark brown
paint where indicated.
6
1f you'd like, outline the ears,
eyes, mouth, muzzle, nose, and
paws with a black pennanent mark-
er. (We had excellent results using a
Sanford extra-fine-point Sharpie
marker, available at office-supply
and art-supply stores.)
7
After the paint has dried thor-
oughly, brush or spray on a seal-
ing coat of polyurethane.
8
Press the marbles into the eye
sockets (two on each side). If
young childen will be playing with
this puzzle, epoxy the marbles in
the eye sockets so they can't be re-
moved or fall out accidentally.
eye marbles; they should fit snuggly.
(We found marbles vary in size so
adjust the hole diameter to fit your
marbles.) Now, bore the eye sockets
and the I n hole in the center of let-
ter A. (We used Forstner bits and
backed the piece to prevent chip-out
when drilling these holes.)
S
Cut away the cat's head by fol-
lowing Line 2. (If you're using a
handsaw, switch to a J,in blade for
this and all remaining cuts. For the
inside cuts, we cut on the line.)
Next, starting at the tail, saw along
Line 3, cut around letter C, and re-
move it. Next, cut out letter A and
then T, sawing in the direction indi-
cated by the arrows. Now, make the
last sawcut along Line 6 so you can
separate the upper and lower parts.
6
Hand-sand a slight round-over
on all edges. To help with paint-
ing, score along the stripes and face
details with an X-acto knife. Now,
remove the paper pattern. (We used
lacquer thinner to remove the adhe-
sive residue.)
Here comes the fun:
personalizing your cat
Note: We suggest using acrylic
paints. You'll find brands such as Ac-
cent, Apple Barrel, Folk Art, and Li-
quitex available at most well-stocked
crafts stores. Follow our color scheme
for the cat and the letters, or select
you own colors. We recommend ap-
plying the paints with a number 5
red sable or similar brush.
1
Brush on the first coat of golden
brown over entire eat body and
the head, but do not paint the muz-
zle, paws, or tip of the tail. Allow
this paint to dry thoroughly before
applying a second coat.
Buying Guide
APt1 double skiptoothed saw
blades. Pack of 12, $7.95 ppd. From
Advanced Machinery Imports, Ltd.,
P.O. Box 312, New Castle, DE
19720. Telephone 302/3222226.
I
Continued
Project Design: Earl __ .. .
First, saw the cat to shape
1
Sand both sides of your
1h X8X piece of pine (we
started with a 2 X 10) with 80- and
ISO-grit sandpapers. If you don't
have stock this wide, you can lami
nate two pieces of i It material to
make up the blank.
2
Make a copy of the full-sized cat
pattern found on pages 16-17,
and apply it to one face of the piece.
(We photocopied the pattern and
then adhered it to
the pine with
spray adhesive.)
3
Using a
bandsaw blade
or 2 mm skip-tool
scrollsaw blade
(see the Buying
Guide for a
source), saw
around the pe-
rimeter of the
eat's body (Line
I on the pat-
tern), start at
the outside ear
and then work
around the eat's
back, tail, and
paws. (We cut
just outside of the
pattern line and
then sanded to the line
using our disc and drum
sanders. We also found that
over-tensioning the scrollsaw
blade slightly produced a
smoother cut in this
thicker stock.) Saw the
five paw lines.
4
In scrap, bore a
%l n hole and test
the fit of your cat-

WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS MARCH 1991 15


I
16
Pussycat
CAT PATTERN
\
4
WEEKEND WOObWORKING PROJECTS MARCH 1991

6 Dark pink
7 Red
8 Yellow
9 Dark brown
2 Burnt sienna
5 Magenta
3 Burgandy
COLOR KEY
4 Antique while
1 Golden brown

4 4

4
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS MARCH 1991 17
BIG-LEAGUE
ORGANIZER
Put a mitt, cap, bat, and ball
in their place
When yonr favorite ball player slides in the door, gear
should pop up on this handy-dandy rack. And when the
little slugger connects at home, all of his fans will cheer.
Now, paint and finish
your plaque
1
Make two full-sized copies of the
Diamond half-pattern on page
30. To do this, fold a sheet of trac-
Let's prepare the edge of the plywood piece. and to
diamond first the edging strip. Adhere the edging
1
Cut a 16x 16" piece of \.2" ply- to the board. Trim the excess edging
wood. (We used birch.) With the with a razor blade. Lightly sand the
grain running vertically, draw a line edges and joint.
h It above and parallel to the bot-
tom edge. Mark its centerpoint. Next, make the shelf
From it, scribe a vertical centerline 1Rip and crosscut the 3Y.!: X8y'!:N
the length of the piece. shelf from i" birch stock. Using
2
Using the dimensions on the the dimensions on the Shelf drawing
Plaque drawing opposite, layout on page 19, layout the centerpoints
the sides radiating 45
Q
from the base for the holes. the 14J"-wide slot,
centerpoint, and the pivot point and all rounded comers.
up from the base. 2Bore the and r holes. (We
3
On a piece of !4 x!4 X scrap used Forstner bits. If you don't
wood, mark a centerpoint have bits this size, use a circle cutter
from the end, and a second one, or scrollsaw.) Saw the bat's slot.
7 from that Saw and then sand
point. Next, drive the -%" and
X 17 brads !.11 comer radii.
through both 3Rout a round-
points, and lightly over along the
tap the second one top edge of the
into the pivot front, the ends,
point on the ply- and the two holes
wood. Now, use it and slot. Do not
as a compass as round over the
shown at right, back edge. Finish-
and scribe the arc sand the piece.
for the top of the diamond. 4On the plaque's back, layout
4
Plot the centerpoints for the the centerpoints for the two key-
Shaker peg holes. Drill the holes. hole slots where dimensioned on the
(We purchased the pegs at a local Plaque drawing. Rout the slots with
homecenter store.) Back the board a keyhole slot-cutting bit to
with scrap to prevent chip-out. depth. Mark the centerpoints for the
S
Bandsaw the board to shape. shelf screws. Drill pilot holes
(We cut just outside the line, and countersink them.
and then sanded to the line.)
6
Cut a strip of biroh
plywood edging long enough to
surround the board. (We purchased
the edging at a local homecenter
store.) Apply contact cement to the
ing paper in half and place the fold
along the pattern's centerline. Tape
it in place, and trace half pat-
tern onto the paper. Next, remove
the tracing paper, tum it over, and
duplicate the tracing on that side of
the paper. Now, unfold the paper.
2
Cut one copy for a paint mask,
removing everything except the
baselines, the home plate circle, and
the three pie-shaped bases. Spray
adhesive to the back and place it on
the plywood, using dimensions on
the Plaque drawing for placement.
3
Spray-paint the plaque green.
(We applied three light coats.)
Now, remove the paper mask.
4
TO prepare the base paths for
painting, cut out the area inside
the baselines and the area around
home plate on the second pattern.
Cut out home plate. Adhere it to
the face of the board, aligning the
points with the horizontal reference
line and the vertical centerline. To
form the base paths, place strips of
masking tape 3/16" away and parallel
to the paper mask.
S
Drive a brad through your shop-
made compass 63/16" from the
end. Position the brad on the pivot
JXlint. Now, while holding a pencil
at the end of the compass, lightly
strike an arc for aligning the bot-
toms of the letters.
6
With carbon paper, transfer the
"Little Slugger" letters found on
page 30 onto thin cardboard (we
used a manila folder), and cut out
the letter openings with a razor
blade. Arrange the letters on the ref-
erence line drawn in Step 5, and
outline them lightly with pencil.
18 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS MARCH 1991
PLAQUE
Letters 2
5V.
2
Vt" t*ch
plywood
J
Keyhole slot
on back
"-long
1 Green
2 White
3 Natural
45'
14W
l
3y,'
I Continued Pilge 30
1""
Supplies: Plywood edge tape; two
Shaker pegs; masking tape; spray ad-
hesive; paint and clear finish.
Photograph: Wm. Hopkins
Vary slot width
to fit bat handle
Rout v. round-over
along toP edge
SHELF (TOP VIEW)
\4" birCh
A-liI"
I - - - - - - - - - . . ~ . ======'----,
the wall l ~ apart, and at the
same height. Let the screw heads
extend \4'" from the wall. Now,
hang the plaque on the screws.
Illustrations: Kim Do:1.ning; Carson Ode Proje<:t design: George Myhervold
7
Paint the letters, bases, and base
path white. (We used acrylic art
ist's paint and carefully brushed it
on between the masks with a #6
nat artist's brush.) After the paint
dries. remove the masking pattern
and tape. Erase any pencil lines
from the unpainted areas. Finish the
birch shelf and the two Shaker pegs.
(We applied two coats of clear lac-
quer.) Finally, apply two coats of
clear finish to the painted field.
8
Screw the shelf to the front of
the board. (We used #6X 1\4"
nathead wood screws.) Glue the
Shaker pegs in the holes. Drive two
#8xr flathead wood screws into
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS MARCH 1991 19
VERSATILITY
Gateleg table opens
decorating possibilities
Needmore seating space
for dinner? Count on this
gateleg table to serve you
weD. Use it as a narrow table in a hallway or behind a
couch, but when guests arrive, presto! In a matter of sec-
onds, you can double your tabletop space.
Let's begin with
the legs and rails
1
Sort and select your material for
the top and support parts. (We
chose solid walnut, and reserved
the best pieces for the top.)
Note: We cut most of the parts over-
sized, and then tn'mmed the assem-
blies to final size.
2
To make the legs (A), rip and
crosscut eight pieces to
3* X28%", See the Cutting Dia-
gram opposite, for a suggested cut-
ting layout. Rip and crosscut fOUf
pieces to 3% x 11!4" for the end
rails (B), and two pieces to
3J,2X3S\.2" for the side rails (C).
3
Plane or resaw a piece of walnut
stock approximately 7lh'" wide
by 60" long to Mi" thick. From it,
rip and crosscut 20 leg stretchers
(0) to I X 11!4", and then
40-J,2 X lis X 1W spacers (E).
4
Cut a 45
G
chamfer along
the bottom edges of each
leg where shown on the Leg As-
sembly detail opposite. (We set up
our tablesaw as shown at nght to
cut them.)
5
Using your tablesaw, dado
blades, and a stop block clamped
to the rip fence, cut the %
and groove cen-
tered in the edges of each leg as
shown on the Leg Assembly draw-
ing and Groove and Trim detail.
Square the rounded ends of the
stopped grooves with a sharp chisel.
6
Cut matching
tenons centered on the ends of
each end rail (B). (We elevated our
saw blade to above the saw ta-
ble, set the rip fence from the
outside of the blade, and then sawed
away the waste stock on both faces
of the piece to fonn the tenon. As
with all fitted pieces like this, we
made a test tenon from scrap of the
same material to check its fit in a
leg groove, and then adjusted the
saw settings when necessary.) Now,
finish-sand all parts with 150- and
then 220-grit sandpaper.
20
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS MARCH 1991
---
I CUTTING DIAGRAM
y, X," x60"W",,,,
!f-----*$--I $
0/11" 0/8"
( xy,' ,."",
centered on end
Yt x Yt x 3Vt" groove
LEG ASSEMBLY
Cut groove in four legs
2-0/_ x914 x 96" Walnut
.,,"

@Legs
B
"[
c
,I ,..
I; !
Spacers
III i ,' L>l-TChisel eod of groove square
, y,"
/--. -
20/_ X914 X7S" Walnut
A
A
GROOVE AND TENON DETAIL
Round-over all
edges after
assembly
A
A
Next, assemble the ends
1
Clamp a leg horizontally in your
vise with the groove facing up.
(We used scraps between the leg
and vise jaws to prevent marring.)
Dry-fit the parts of one end as
shown at right, starting with a
stretcher at the bottom, then alter-
nating spacers and stretchers, and
fitting the end rail last. Adjust
length of the spacers if necessary.
2
Coat the groove surfaces with
glue (we used yellow woodwork-
er's glue), and assemble a table end.
Next, remove this assembly from
Bill of Materials
Po'
"""'" lb.
l T W l
6
A" leg
""

2814" W 8
B end rail ,,"
'W
1114" W 4
C side rail
""

35112" W
,
D stretch
""
'"
1114
W 20
E
...""
""
.."

W 40
F"
""'"
""
,,," 51.!" W 6
"""
G"
""""'.
... 3%' 50" W 4
"""d
W top end ...
'''"
,,.
W 4
,
""".
FAI' ,,," ,W
F 4
Parts marked with are trimmed to final size
after assembty. Please read all instructions be-
fore cutting.
Material key: WwaInut; FRr 2X4
Supplies: 14' plywood, 4-Yz x,' comef brac-
es, 16-16x 1\11" ffathead wood screws, finish.
Continued
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECrS MARCH 1991 21
Bore arcs with 10/.1" Forstner bit
Use w t ~ o.d. router bushing and to straight bit
HINGE TEMPLATE
(HALF PATTERN)
Gateleg Table
the vise and clamp its mating leg in
its place. Apply glue in the groove,
and then insert the stretcher ends
and end rail from the first assembly
into the clamped leg. Square the
comers, and insert the spacers be-
tween the stretchers. Remove the
assembly from the vise, clamp it (we
used bar clamps), and square. Wipe
ofT glue squeeze-out with a damp
cloth. Assemble the other three ends
the same way.
3
Trim the assembled ends to uni
form width and length. (fa trim
the width, we first ripped !4" from
one side of each end, then locked
the rip fence l7!4
w
from the blade,
and ripped the opposite edge. To
trim the length, we made an
18X29" sliding table from ~ w ply-
wood, and nailed t X I" strips
along the back and bottom edges.
We placed this on the saw table,
and set the rip fence 29" from the
inside of the saw blade. Then, we
laid one of the assembled ends on it,
butting the side and feet against the
edge strips, and pushed it through
the saw to trim the top of each end
as shown below.) Sand slight round-
overs along the edges of all parts.
Plywood table
22
Rout the hinge mortises sides between the holes. File or sand
1
Make a full pattern of the Hinge the cuts to smooth the edges.
Template half-pattern shown be- 3Attach a !6~ straight bit in your
low righi, by first folding a piece of rouler and a a ~ 0.0. bushing
paper in half. Place it on the pat- to the base plate. Rout a lest mar.
tem, aligning the fold with the verti- lise in a piece of scrap. Check the fit
cal centerline as indicated. Next, of the hinge in the mortise. (See the
mark the hole centerpoint, the gray Buying Guide at the end for OUf
tinted CUIOUI area, and the center- hinge source.) The hinges should fit
line extending perpendicular from snuggly in the mortises, and be
the fold. With a pin, poke through nush with the surface. Modify the
the hole centerpoint to mark the template, or remake it if necessary,
second half-sheet of paper. Now, to get a good fit.
unfold the paper and extend the 4Arrange a pair of ends so that
centerline and tinted cutout area to the two lay together side by side
the other pattern half. on a nat surface. Make certain you
2
Rip and crosscUl a piece of 34" have the outside face up. Align both
plywood to 6 X7
ff
Scribe per- ends along the top with a straight-
pendiculal' centerlines across the edge. See Exploded View opposite,
face of the plywood. Ad r-----"'----'-----...:..:.---,
here your pattern to the
face of the plywood with
spray adhesive, aligning
the centerlines on it with
the centerlines you
scribed on the plywood.
Next, using a ltff_diam_
eter Forstner bit, bore
out the rounded ends of
the cUlout, and then
carefully scrollsaw the
\
Align this line with
centerline 01 hinge mortise
~ !hi, Ii,. ,,;th joi"
WEEKEND WOODWORKING I'ROJl:crs MI\RCII1991
Hinge recess
Hinge
24"
@
Chisel to accommodate
hinge pins
Spacers
" -'t--"Du) Stretcher
Hinge recess
End rail
-@Leg
\ ,"
"'-center table top over lable base
A


;/
17V."
V
Side rail
Corner
brace
Legs
Note: This end
shown in folded
position
@
V,"

,
""
1v,-
I
#8xlh" pan
A
head screw


TOP DETAIL 1/&0" pilot hole
Y2" deep
Comer brace
HINGE MORTISE PROFILE
(SlOE VIEW)
Rout to thickness
L------------------------------4 01 hinge blade
for additional information. Rip a
VI6--thick shim (we used
... pine scrap). Place the shim be-
tween the legs of adjacent table ends
and clamp. Place a strip of masking
tape over the hinge location and
mark the hinge centerline. Now, us-
ing double-faced tape on the under
side of the template, place it on the
legs as shown at left. aligning one
centerline with the tape centerline
and the other centered on the shim
in the gap between the legs.
5
Rout the hinge mortise. Move
the template and rout the second
hinge mortise on the legs.
6
Separate the ends, and push a
hinge into the mortise to mark
the areas on the forward edge that
must be chiseled out to accommo-
date the hinge pins. See the Hinge
Mortise drawing above dght for de-
Approximately V."
wide, Iij,e' deep
tails. Chisel out those areas, fitting
the hinges as you work. Work care-
fully because this edge will be visible
when you fold the legs. Repeat this
procedure to hinge the other pair of
ends.
7
Clamp the ends together again
as they were when you routed
the mortise. Mark the screwhole
centers and drill l/16
H
pilot holes '/I
H
deep. Attach the hinges. Mark the
paired ends and remove the hinges.
I Continuro
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECI'S MAROII991 2J
CORNER BRACE
Step 3 Tape cutoff back
onto 2X4.
Step 1 Mark centerpoint on
end of 14"4ong 2x4.
Step 2 Rip 45' bevel.
Assemble the top
1
To glue up the first inner panel
(three F parts to each), brush
glue into the slots in the mating
edges of the three pieces, insert
splines in both slots of the center
one, join the three pieces edge to
edge, and clamp. Wipe off glue
squeeze-out with a damp cloth. As-
semble the other inner top panel.
After the glue dries, square the pan-
els at 52Jh". Rout a JA" slot along
both ends of the two panels.
2
Crosscut four 9"-long splines.
Center and glue them in the
slots on the panel ends. Next, glue
the end pieces (H) to the .panels,
aligning one edge of each end piece
about V16" short on one of the pan-
el's edge. Clamp until the glue dries.
3
Set your tablesaw's rip fence
lOJA" from the inside of the
blade. Make certain the fence sits
square to the blade on both the in-
feed and outfeed side. Next, rip one
edge on both top panels. Move the
fence 10" from the blade, tum each
panel end for end, and rip the sec-
ond edge on both. Now, rout a JA"
slot along the long edges of both
panels, stopping the slots I" from
each end.
4
Layout the parts (F, G, H) for
one of the tops as shown on the
Step4 Turn2x4end
for end.
:;;*::::"'_Step 5 Rip second
45' bevel.
Step 6 Crosscut four 3Y."
-long braces.
sets of three boards. Turn the mid-
dle board in both sets to alternate
the grain direction. Mark the tops
to identify the pairs.
2
Chuck a piloted \4" slot cutter
in your router. Adjust it to cut a
slot centered along the edge of your
stock as shown in the Spline
Slot detail opposite. Test the setup
on scrap and adjust the router if
necessary. (See the Buying Guide
for a source for the slot cutter.)
Note: Mark the top or bottom of the
F, G. and H parts so you'Il cut with
the some side against the router table
or base each lime.
3
Rout slots along the fOUf mating
edges of the three-board pairs.
Keep this router setup.
4
Rip and crosscut fOUf pieces to
4x61 long for the top's edge
pieces (G). Next, rout the Y4" slot
along one edge of each piece, start-
ing and stopping the slot 1M" from
the end of each piece.
S
Rip and crosscut fOUf pieces to
4XI0!4 for the panel ends (H).
Rout a !4" slot along one long edge
on each, and continue the slot for
2*" on the ends as shoo.vn on the
Exploded View drawing.
6
Make up 42 linear feet of spline
stock by ripping 15/16"wide
strips of JA plywcxxJ.
Table
You're ready to cut
the tabletop parts
1
From the :)4" stock you set aside
for the top earlier, rip and cross
cut six pieces to 3Y.l: X 54" for the
inner panels (F). Sort them into two
Assemble the base
1
Set up a Y.l:. dado on your table-
saw. Turn the ends inside face-
down, and cut Y.l:. -deep dadoes
lengthwise into the end assemblies
where dimensioned on the Groove
and Tenon detail on page 21. (We
first set the rip fence IY.l:" from the
inside of the dado blades and cut
one dado in both ends. Next, we
placed the rip fence 1514" from the
blades, and then cut the dadoes into
the left side on both ends.) Chisel
the end of these dadoes square.
2
Cut Y.l:" tenons on the ends of
both side rails (C) as dimension-
ed on the same drawing.
3
Glue. assemble, and clamp the
ends and side rails together as
shown above.
4
Make four comer braces (l) fol-
lowing the steps on the Comer
Brace drawing above right. Glue and
screw one in each comer.
24
WEEKE."lO WOOI)WQRKING PROJECTS MARCil 1991
"'.
)",.
<;
'0
TOP ASSEMBLY
Top Assembly drawing abo"e.
Crosscut enough spline to fit the
slots in the two outside boards (G).
Round the ends of the splines to fit
the groove, and then glue one in
each of these slots. Next, glue.-join
these boards to the inner panel, and
clamp. Wipe off glue squeeze-out.
5
Assemble the second top the
same way. After the glue dries,
remove the clamps from both.
Crosscut both panels to fIJ- final
length. (We trimmed equal amounts
from each end.) Next, belt-sand the
surfaces with 150-grit sandpaper,
sanding with the grain to avoid
scratches. Switch to a pad sander,
and finish-sand the top panels with
~ r i t sandpaper.
6
Lay the two tops side by side on
a fiat surface with best sides up.
and align one end. Iru;ert a V16-
spacer between them, and then
clamp to hold both from moving.
Using the dimensions on the Ex
Project design: Jeffrey Hayes, Des Moines
ploded View on page 23, mark the
centerlines for the three hinges.
Now, form the hinge mortises using
the same template and techniques
described to mortise the leg hinges.
Place the hinges in the mortises,
and then drive the screws. Remove
the hinges. Sand a slight round-over
along the outside edges of the top.
You're nearly done: Just
finish and assemble
1
Apply the finish of your choice.
(We applied a light walnut stain.
After two days of drying, we ap-
plied one coat of sanding sealer, fol-
lowed by two coats of polyurethane.
After each application dried, we
sanded with 32O-grit sandpaper.)
2
Place the top that you are going
to mount to the support assem-
bly upside down on a nat surface.
Place the support assembly upside
down on it, and center from side to
side and end to end. Now, attach
Jlustratiol\s; Kim Downing; CaIWll Ode
v. slot cutter
Router table
SPLINE SLOT OETAIL
four ~ XIW L-shaped comer braces
to the inside of the side rails, and
then to the table top. Stand the ta-
ble on its legs. Attach the hinges to
the table ends, and then both tops.
Buying Guide
lA" Slot cutter. Catalog no.
24067 $14.50. Requires !4w shank
arbor with bearing, catalog no.
24068 $7.95. Add S4 per order for
postage. From: Woodcraft, P.O.
Box 1686, Parkersburg, WV 26102-
1686. Credit-card orders: Call sro.
2251153.
Brass table hinge. Eight double-
pin table hinges. Catalog no.
ISBH37. Price: $35 ppd. From:
Constantine's, 2050 Eastchester
Road, Bronx, NY 10461. Credit-
card orders: Call 800-223-8087.
Photograph; John HC1herinaton
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS MARCH 1991
"
RED-HOT
A take-apart ladder truck
for busy hands
It was love at first sight when we spotted Tom
Lewis' fire truck not long ago at a California
crafts show. Tom tells us that because kids can
take apart and then reassemhle this fire truck
easily, they'll play with it day after day.
Let's begin with the chassis
1
Saw two pieces of M" pine to
for the chassis (A).
See our Cutting Diagram opposite.
Stack the two pieces face to face
with double-faced tape. The top
piece becomes a drilling template.
2
Using the dimensions on the
Chassis drawing, layout the six
hole centerpoints on the face of the
top piece. Drill these holes
through the template and deep
into the chassis. (We used our drill
press.) Now, separate the two pieces
and lay aside the template.
3
Round over the comers of the
chassis as shown on the Chassis
drawing. (yIe used our disc sander.)
Finish-sand the piece.
4
Cut six lengths of !4 It dow-
el and chamfer one end on each.
Place a drop of glue (we used yel-
low woodworker's glue) in one of
the holes you just drilled, and insert
a dowel into that hole, chamfered
end up. Now, glue the remaining
dowels in the other five holes.
5
Select toy axle pegs to fit the
hole of your wood wheels. (Our
wheels had a !4 hole requiring
1/32
N
-diameter axle pegs. We found
peg sizes can vary depending on
supplier, so drill a hole in scrap first
to check the fit of your axle pegs:
They should fit snuggly. If they
don't, select a different bit.), When
you're satisfied with the fit, layout,
and then drill the four axle holes
deep in the edges of the chassis
where shown on the Chassis draw-
ing. (We clamped the piece on edge
in a handscrew clamp.)
Now, move on
to the other body parts
1
From %" pine, rip and crosscut
three 2" squares for the hood (B)
block. Resaw one of the pieces to
thick. Next, glue the three
pieces together, sandwiching the
piece in the center as
shown in the Hood detail. (When
clamping, we used scrap-wood pads
26
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS MARCH 1991
Chamfer end............
1a"long
Glue one in each hole
in top of chassis.
HOOODETAIL
---!_Bandsaw hood to
shape fallowing
pattern
I
1
,
,
7hz X Y."
toy axle peg
""'7'-JFA./
Vs"<>:v."
/\>.
/"".

o 1"

hole I" deep


at 30" angle

.x.
A"/Y."ttat washer
J ( i5JaX2" wood wheel
,.
Place part @hefe
Place part here


y,"
'.o x 5% x 48" Pine
,y,.
,Y,"
Place part @ here
7132" hole :v." deep
,,,.
All holes in top
Y." diam. :v," deep
,.

Place part here
CHASSIS
CUTTING DIAGRAM
H
v." round-over
between the clamp and hood pieces Handsaw the hood to shape. (We Bill of Materials
to prevent the clamps from denting sawed just outside of the pattern
FirIIshtd SIz.
i
the soft pine.) line, and then sanded to the line us
p.,
g
2Using the dimensions on the ing our disc sander.)
T w l
Hood detail, mark the center- 4For the front fenders (C), first
A
""""
.,"
,.- ,.- p
,
point for the radiator-cap hole on rip and crosscut two pieces of
B hood
,.
'"

LP
the top of the block. Drill the 7/32
H
stock to I Xr. Using double-
c
''''''''


'''"
p
,
hole I" deep and at an angle 30" faced tape, stack the two pieces to-
from perpendicular. (We placed a gether. Next, adhere the Fender
0 cob
,Y," 3Y," 3"
LP
,
shim under the block to hold it at pattern to the top piece. Handsaw or
E ,."
,Y," 3 ,.-
LP
approximately this angle while drill- scrollsaw the fenders to shape. Now,
F
'00'
3Y,
,.- p
ing the hole on our drill press.) separate the parts, remove the tape,
3Copy of the four patterns found and then glue and clamp them to
G
--
3Y," P
,,,"
on page 29. (We made photo- the hood where shown on the Ex-
copies.) Adhere the hood pattern to ploded View on page 28.
H
--
Y,"
.-
5" P 6
,,-
the side of the hood block. (We used 5From H pine, rip and crosscut
spray adhesive.) Next, using your two pieces to 3h X5". Glue Mlterial key: LP.Jaminated pine, P-pirle
tablesaw, cut the four Ih"-wide kerfs them together face to face, aligning
SUpplies: dowel stock, 4-% x 2" wheels.
deep in the hood front where the edges and ends, and clamp. Re-
4-\'4" flat washers, 9-
7
h2x m" toy axle pegs.
shown on the Hood detail. Tum the move the clamps from this blank af- paint and ftnish.
block SO the pattern side faces up. ter the glue dries.
Conl;m!Cd
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS MARCH 1991
27
I
Fire Truck
LADDER DETAIL
1,4. dowel
W."long
see Ladder Detail
'A" hole 1,4. deep

@
Ladder stringer
2Q':1
Ve

3'
L
1-1----,-"'-.-1"""
CAB DETAIL
Round end of stringer
7132 x 1'.4" toy axle pegs
on both sides
I
Drill the three holes through the
piece where marked on the pattern.
(We backed the part with scrap
when drilling to prevent splintering
the edges.) Bandsaw the piece to
shape, and then remove the pattern.
9
Using double-faced tape, stick
the hood, cab, passenger seat,
and ladder rack in position on the
top face of the chassis template
where indicated by the dashed lines
on the Chassis drawing. Next, care-
fully turn over the assembly, and
drill through the six 1,4 n holes in the
template and I \4n into the fire
truck parts (B, D, E, and G) as
shown at right. Remove the parts
from the template, and enlarge the
holes you just drilled in the pieces
to 9;32"; the larger holes will make it
easier for a child to remove and re-
place the truck parts on the dowels.
Now, check the fit of all parts on
the truck's chassis.
0/." hole :va" deep
centered on E

6
Set the rip fence on your table-
saw I Y8" from the inside of the
saw blade. Angle the blade 20 from
perpendicular, and rip the bevel
along one end of the piece as shown
right cemer. From this blank, cross-
cut a r length (include the beveled
end) for the cab (0). Next, crosscut
a 11h" length from the piece for the
passenger seat (E). Bore a %" hole
deep in the center of the seat.
(We used a Forstner bit.)
7
Rip and crosscut a piece of }4"
pine to 3 X4", and then resaw
and sand this piece to 14" thick.
(We resawed it on our handsaw.)
Adhere the Roof (F) pattern to the
piece, and saw it to shape. Remove
your pattern. Now, glue the roof to
the top of the cab as shown in the
Cab detail on the Exploded View.
B
Ta make the ladder rack (G),
rip and crosscut a piece of
pine to 4X4
n
Adhere the ladder
rack pattern to the side of the piece,
aligning it along two adjacent sides.
7/32 X 1Va" toy
axle peg


Fender
'--L",.
1-
28
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS MARCH 199\
PATTERNS
FENDER
--
---.
I
I
--
-'-
\
\' \ I
\ \ \
\ \ I

/
--

-..

ROOF
_/
./
.- /'
/
/
/
/'
.-
/
/'

./
"
/
--
LADDER RACK
I
\
-'--
$
-C..__
Build the ladders and
you're nearly finished
1
From a" pine, rip and crosscut
six Ih X If.!: X 5" pieces for the
ladder stringers (H). Next, make a
drilling ,template by sawing a piece
of hardboard to the .>arne
length and width. Layout the cen-
terpoints for the rung holes on the
face of the hardboard, using the di-
mensions on the Ladder detail at
left. Now, carefully drill the !4"
holes through the hardboard.
2
Place the hardboard template on
top of a ladder stringer, and us-
ing yOUf drill press, drill through a
template hole and 1,4" deep into the
stringer. (We set the stop on OUf
drill press to control the depth.)
Next, drill all five holes in the
stringer. Drill the other five string-
ers the same way.
3
Cut 15-14" dowels 1J.A" long for
the ladder rungs. Glue and as-
semble two of the ladders.
4
Round one end on the two re-
maining ladder stringers where
shown on the Exploded View. (We
shaped the ends with our disc sand-
er.) Glue the rungs in the holes of
one stringer, insert the bottom rung
through the top hole in the ladder
rack, and then finish assembling
that ladder.
S
Glue four 7/nX toy axle
pegs in the holes drilled in the
ladder rack (two on each side).
6
Slip a %I Xr wheel and !4 nat
washer over a 7/32 X I toy
axle peg. Apply glue in one of the
holes of the chassis, and then insert
the assembled axle peg into the
hole. Now, repeat this procedure for
the other wheels. For the radiator
cap, shorten the shaft on an axle
peg to long, and glue it in the
hole you drilled earlier in the hood.
7
Apply the finish of your choice.
(We brushed on two coats of
acrylic paint. We painted the axle
pegs and ladder holders blue, the
body red, and the ladders yellow.
The wheels were left natural.)
Project Design: Tom Lewis, Vista, Calif. Illustrations: Kim Downing; Carson Ode Photograph: Wm. Hopkins
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS MARCH 1991
29
Big-Lea ue Organizer
Continued from page 19
30
Align this point on
second pattern //
with /
centerline
Cut along these lines
lor first pattern
Cui along this line


Horizontal reference line
Align fold of tracing
" with vertical

Align this point on
second pattern with
horizontal reference
line
DIAMOND
(HALF PATTERN)
WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS MARCH 1991