Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
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348
349
Hungary
Hungarys uniqueness extends beyond its incomprehensible tongue. Heres your chance to
strip down to your swimmers in the midwinter minuses and loll around an open-air thermal
spa, while snowy patches glisten around you. Following that, you could go to a smoky bar
where a Romani band yelps while a crazed crowd whacks its boot-heels, as commanded by
Hungarian tradition. Or go clubbing in an ancient bathhouse, where all dance in swimsuits,
waist-deep in healing waters.
Cosmopolitan Budapest is a capital to rival any on the continent with world-class operas, monumental historical buildings, and the Danube River flowing through the middle
of it all. Prices here are somewhere in the middle: not nearly as high as Austria or nearly as
reasonable as Ukraine. Having established itself as a state in the year 1000, Hungary has a
long history, a rich culture and strong folk traditions that are well worth exploring. So go
ahead, dive in.
FAST FACTS
Area 93,000 sq km
Capital Budapest
Currency forint (Ft); 1 = 276Ft; US$1 =
216Ft; UK1 = 410Ft; A$1 = 164Ft; 100 =
185Ft; NZ$1 = 143Ft
Famous for paprika, Bulls Blood and csrda
music
Official Language Hungarian (Magyar)
Phrases jo napot kivanok (good day); szia
(hi/bye); ksznm (thank you)
Population 10 million
Telephone Codes country code %36;
international access code %00; intercity
access code %06
Visa no visa required for most countries if
you stay less than 90 days; see p408
HUNGARY
HUNGARY
If these pursuits dont appeal, check out Roman ruins, ancient castles, Turkish minarets
in baroque cities, or experience the rural pleasures of cowboys riding astride five horses,
storks nesting on streetlamps, and a sea of apricot trees in bloom.
Arad
Sarkad
Nagylak
Mak
Bkscsaba
Subotica
Sombor
Baja
Villny
Harkny
Sikls
Mohcs
PCS
Virovitica
Barcs
Riv
er
Orf
Dr
Szenna
Gyknyes
Nagykanizsa
CR
Varadin
Letenye
IA
N
Szigetvr
Kaposvr
Marcali
Fonyd
Badacsonytomaj
Hvz
Keszthely
SL
S ERB I A
SZEGED
pusztaszer
Kiskunhalas
Kalocsa
Tamsi
Bonyhd
Szekszrd
Csongrd
Bugac
Kisunmajsa
Paks
Srbogrd
Enying
Sifok
La
ke
Ba
Szentgotthrd
riszentpter
Balatonfred
Tapolca
Tihany
Smeg
Vasvr
Srvr
Kiskunsgi
Nemzeti Park
Dunajvros
Kecskemt
Polgardi
on
lat
Veszprm
Jk
Kiskunflegyhza
Oroshza
Timioara
Gyula
Bks
Szarvas
Kunszentmrton
Szolnok
Cegld
M5
Rckeve
Grdony
Lake
M7 Velence
SZKESFEHRVR
Herend
Ppa
River
Kszeg
rottk
(882m)
Kapuvr
Fertd
Sopron
Totkomls
Mezhegyes
Oradea
Szeghalom
Meztr
Trkszentmikls
Karcag
Nagykta
M0
Szzhalombatta
Mr
Tatabnya
M1
Bicske
M2
Szentendre
Pannonhalma
Oroszlny
Tiszafred
Berettyjfalu
Pspkladny
Hajdszoboszl
DEBRECEN
Jszapti
Heves
Hatvan
Jszberny
Gdl
Vcrtt
Visegrd
Esztergom
Komrom
GYR
River
Mosonmagyarvar
Lake
Fert
Hegyeshalom
Rajka
BUDAPEST
Polgr
Gyngys
Vc
trovo
Szob
Nagymaros
Hollk
Szcsny
Balassagyarmat
Nitra
BRATISLAVA
VIENNA
Hortobgy
Hortobgy
Nemzeti Park
Ndudvar
Hajdbszrmny
Hajdnns
Tokaj
Tiszavasvri
MISKOLC
Salgtarjn
Szilvsvrad
Lillafred
Istlls-k
Bkk
(959m) Nemzeti Park
Tiszajvros
Eger
Kkes
(1014m)
Mezkvesd
Fzesabony
M3
sza
Ti
Szerencs
Encs
Edelny
Putnok
Somosk zd
Luenec
Nybtor
Nyregyhza
Kisvrda
er
Riv
Srospatak
Storaljajhely
Aggtelek
Mtszalka
Mriapcs
Fehrgyarmat
IN
Satu
Mare
Tiszabecs
Mukacheve
A
Zhony
Uzhhorod
80 km
50 miles
S LOVA KI A
HUNGARY
0
0
Szombathely
A
R I
HUNGARY
Pre-Hungarian Hungary
LONELY PLANET INDEX
nu
Da
be
HISTORY
Rb
Ipoly
River
ub
Da
n
River
HOW MUCH?
TI
HUNGARY
Tisza
ITINERARIES
H U N G A R Y 351
IA
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AN
HIGHLIGHTS
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R OM
The Conquest
Magyar (Hungarian) tribes are said to have
moved in around 896, when rpd led the
alliance of seven tribes into the region. The
Magyars, a fierce warrior tribe, terrorised
much of Europe with raids reaching as far
as Spain. They were stopped at the Battle of
Augsburg in 955 and subsequently converted
to Christianity. Hungarys first king and its
patron saint, Istvn (Stephen), was crowned
on Christmas Day in 1000, marking the foundation of the Hungarian state.
Medieval Hungary was a powerful kingdom
that included Transylvania (now in Romania), Transcarpathia (now in Ukraine), modern-day Slovakia and Croatia. Under King
Matthias Corvinus (145890), Hungary experienced a brief flowering of Renaissance culture. However, in 1526 the Ottomans defeated
the Hungarian army at Mohcs and by 1541
Buda Castle had been seized and Hungary
sliced in three. The central part, including
Buda, was controlled by the Ottomans, while
Transdanubia, present-day Slovakia, and parts
of Transcarpathia were ruled by Hungarian nobility based in Pozsony (Bratislava)
under the auspices of the Austrian House of
Habsburg. The principality of Transylvania,
east of the Tisza, prospered as a vassal state
of the Ottoman Empire.
Communism
By 1947 the communists assumed complete
control of the government and began nationalising industry and dividing up large estates among
the peasantry. On 23 October 1956, student
demonstrators demanding the withdrawal of
Soviet troops were fired upon. The next day Imre
Nagy, the reformist minister of agriculture, was
named prime minister. On 28 October Nagys
government offered an amnesty to all those
involved in the violence and promised to abolish the hated secret police, the VH (known as
VO until 1949). On 4 November Soviet tanks
moved into Budapest, crushing the uprising. By
the time the fighting ended on 11 November,
some 25,000 people were dead. Then the reprisals began: an estimated 20,000 people were
arrested; 2000 were executed, including Nagy;
another 250,000 fled to Austria.
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H U N G A R Y Pe o p l e 353
The Republic
PEOPLE
SPORT
The Formula One Hungarian Grand Prix,
held in mid-August, is the years biggest
sporting event. The Hungaroring (www.hungaroring
.hu) track is 19km north of Budapest, in
Mogyrod, but hotels in the capital fill up
and prices skyrocket.
HUNGARY
HUNGARY
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RELIGION
Of those Hungarians declaring religious affiliation, about 52% are Roman Catholic, 16%
Reformed (Calvinist) Protestant, 3% Evangelical (Lutheran) Protestant, 2.5% Greek Catholic, 1% Orthodox and 0.1% Jewish (down from
a pre-WWII population of nearly 10 times the
current size).
Budapest is Hungarys artistic heart, but the
provinces resound with the arts too. The country (and the capital in particular) is known for
its traditional culture, with a strong emphasis
on the classical and for good reason. The history of Hungarian arts and literature includes
world-renowned composers such as Bla
Bartk and Franz Liszt, and the Nobel prize
winning writer Imre Krtesz and his innovative contemporary Peter Esterhzy. Hungarys
proximity to classically focused Vienna, as well
as the legacy of the Soviet regard for the proper
arts means that opera, symphony and ballet are
high on the entertainment agenda, and even
provincial towns have decent companies.
For the more contemporary branches of
artistic life, Budapest is the countrys queen
bee, with many art galleries, theatre and dance
companies, as well as folk music and handicrafts that have grown out of village life or
minority culture.
Music
As you will no doubt see from the street names
in every Hungarian town and city, the country celebrates and reveres its most influential
musician, composer and pianist, Franz (or
Ferenc) Liszt (181186). The eccentric Liszt
described himself as part Gypsy, and in his
Hungarian Rhapsodies, as well as in other
works, he does indeed weave Romani motifs
into his compositions.
Ferenc Erkel (181093) is the father of
Hungarian opera, and the stirringly nationalist Bnk Bn is a standard at the Hungarian
State Opera House in Budapest. Bla Bartk
(18811945) and Zoltn Kodly (18821967)
made the first systematic study of Hungarian
folk music; both integrated some of their
findings into their compositions.
Hungarian folk musicians play violins,
zithers, hurdy-gurdies, bagpipes and lutes on
a five-tone diatonic scale. Romani (Gypsy)
music, found in restaurants in its schmaltzy
form (best avoided), has become a fashionable
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H U N G A R Y E n v i r o n m e n t 355
Literature
ENVIRONMENT
Visual Arts
Favourite painters from the 19th century include realist Mihly Munkcsy (18441900),
the so-called painter of the plains, and Tivadar Kosztka Csontvry (18531919). Gyz
Vsrhelyi (190897), who changed his name
to Victor Vasarely when he emigrated to Paris,
is considered the father of op art. In the 19th
and early 20th century, the Zsolnay family created world-renowned decorative art in porcelain. Ceramic artist Margit Kovac (19021977),
a Hungarian national treasure, produced a
large number of statues and ceramic objects
during her career. The traditional embroidery, weavings and ceramics of the nations
npmvszet (folk art) endures and there is at
least one handicraft store in every town.
The Land
Wildlife
There are plenty of common European animals
(deer, wild hare, boar, otter) as well as some
rarer species (wild cat, lake bat, Pannonian
lizard), but three-quarters of the countrys 450
vertebrates are birds, particularly waterfowl.
Hungary is a premier European sight for bird-
National Parks
There are 11 national parks in Hungary. Bkk
Nemzeti Park, north of Eger, is a mountainous
limestone area of forest and caves. Kiskunsgi Nemzeti Park (p397; www.knp.hu) and
Bugac (p397), near Kecskemt, and Hortobgy Nemzeti Park (www.hnp.hu) in the
Hortobgy Puszta (a World Heritage site),
outside Debrecen, protect the unique grassland environment of the plains.
Environmental Issues
Pollution is a large and costly problem. Harmful emissions from low-grade fuels such as
coal and the high numbers of buses and cars,
especially in Budapest, affect the air quality.
The overuse of nitrate fertilisers in agriculture
threatens ground water beneath the plains.
However, there has been a marked improvement in air and water quality in recent years
as Hungary attempts to conform to EU environmental standards.
HUNGARY
HUNGARY
ARTS
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BUDAPEST
%1 / pop 1.8 million
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B U D A P E S T H i s t o r y 357
HISTORY
Strictly speaking, the story of Budapest begins
only in 1873 with the administrative union of
three cities that had grown together: Buda,
west of the Danube; buda (Budas oldest
neighbourhood) to the north; and Pest on the
eastern side of the river. But the area had been
occupied for thousands of years before Budapest as we know it existed. The Romans built
a settlement at Aquincum (buda) during
the first centuries of the Christian Era. In the
ORIENTATION
The citys traditional artery, the Danube, is
spanned by nine bridges that link hilly, residential Buda with bustling, commercial and
very flat Pest. Two ring roads link three of the
bridges across the Danube and essentially define central Pest. Important boulevards such
as Rkczi t and leafy Andrssy t fan out
from these, creating large squares and circles.
The most central square in Pest is Dek tr,
where the three metro lines meet. Buda is
dominated by Castle and Gellrt Hills; the
main square is Moszkva tr.
Budapest is divided into 23 kerlet (districts). The Roman numeral appearing before
each street address signifies the district. Central Buda is district I, central Pest is district V,
and fans out to zones VI and VII. You can also
tell the district by reading its postal code: the
HUNGARY
HUNGARY
356 R U N A PN G T E A D R u n n i n g s u b h e a d
B DNI ESH
358 R U N A PN G T E A D R u n n i n g s u b h e a d
B DNI ESH
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B U D A P E S T 359
BUDAPEST
0
0
River
Rmai
Frd
1
15
buda
BKV Passenger
Ferry Rmaifrd
To Szentendre
(19km)
Rmaifrd
Rkospalotajpest
HV Line
Bc
jpestVroskapu
si
jpestKzpont
ube
jpest
Train Line,
Train Station &
Station Name
Kelenfld
Kles utca
buda
Filatorigt
III
budai haj
gyri-sziget
(buda
Shipbuilding
Island)
rpd
hd
XV
Dan
Dek tr
INFORMATION
Australian Embassy.............................1
Canadian Embassy.............................2
Centre for Rural Tourism.................... 3
Dutch Embassy...................................4
French Embassy.................................5
Hungarian Disabled Association..........6
Hungarian Youth Hostel Association..7
Mellow Mood Ltd Stand.................... 8
9
Romanian Embassy.............................
Serbia & Montenegro Embassy........ 10
Slovakian Embassy............................11
Slovenian Embassy............................12
South African Embassy.....................13
14
Ukrainian Embassy............................
IV
Aquincum
M2
Istvntelek
Angyalfld
B5
A4
D4
B4
D4
C3
D4
D4
E4
D4
E4
B3
B3
E4
Gyngysi
utca
42
Forgch
utca
a
rs
ln
da
la
kB
art
Ba
lat
on
Kelenfld
To Szobor Park
(5km)
Feneketlen-t
32
Kosztolnyi
Dezs tr
23
Bu
34
Borros tr
Terminus
40
Borros tr
28
tca
fu
zse 35
J
Etele t
Bk
Th
Fo
Stadionok
ras
ga
43
Kerepesi
Kb
ny
Nagyvrad
tr
M3
Jszbernyi t
Kbnya
als
36
Npliget
41
Ferencvros
Ecseri t
Pttys utca
IX
Rkosfalva
Hatr t
t
Ha
li
Rkos
j kztemet
(Municipal Cemetery)
Npliget
rin
D3
D3
D6
E6
C2
E4
Racetrack
Pillang
utca
ai
Angyal
D4
D4
C6
D4
Nagyicce
rs vezr tre
TRANSPORT
Americana Rent-a-Car..................... 38
rpd hd Bus Station...................... 39
BKV Passenger Ferry........................ 40
Npliget Bus Station..........................
41
Recent Car.......................................42
Stadion Bus Station...........................43
Kbnya fels
Klinikk
XI
14
kr
Vil
VIII
To Gdll
(27km)
Ferenc krt
ja
lm
FarkasrtiTemet
Klvin tr
ga
Fo
11
sK
utca
Gellrt Hill
Citadella
s
ra
29
yve
y)
Alkots
XIV
Castle Hill
ly
na
Dli
Train
Station
ir
Dli plyaudvar
sk
t
i
XII
F utca
Zugl
Batthyny
tr
Moszkva tr
(cog r a i l
La
jo
ria
it
arg
wa
gy
erek
un
Na
or
as
tf
C3
C4
C3
C6
E4
SHOPPING
Jozsefvrosi piac...............................36 E5
Vrosligeti Bolhapiac........................ 37 D4
Mexiki t
ik
be
Margit hd
ex
rz
ri
t
iE
sk
Mexiki
t
gy
DRINKING
Kisrabl............................................34 C5
Zld Prdon..................................... 35 C6
ca
ut
19
City Zoo
30
Le Hsk
Lehel
Szchenyi
tere 31
26
tr
frd
18
37
20
16
See Central Pest Map
17
21
5
Bajza
Nyugati
Vrosliget
10
utca
Nyugati
plyaudvar
(City Park)
Train Station
33
Kodly krnd
Kossuth
VI
Vrsmarty utca
Lajos tr Arany
Jnos
Oktogon
VII
utca
M1
Keleti
3
Train Station
M3
Opera
V
7
8
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t
22
Keleti
plyaudvar
Dek tr
Blaha
Kerepesi
M2
Vrsmarty tr
Lujza tr
Temet
Astoria
M1
Ferenciek tere
Jzsefvros
D5
B6
C3
XVI
Kn
il
a
fog
38
l
he
Sz
di
t
Rkosrendez
Margitsziget
Dzsa
(Margaret Island) Gyrgy t
27
II
13
ge
ly
12
XIII
Sze
Szpvlgyi t
39
25
Th
To Zugligeti Niche
Camping (2.5km);
Ecseri Market
Fehrv
HUNGARY
rpd hd
SLEEPING
Aquarium Youth Hostel................... 22
Back Pack Guesthouse......................23
Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget..24
Danubius Thermal Hotel
Margitsziget.................................25
Hotel Fortuna...................................26
Hotel Margitsziget............................27
Martos Hostel..................................28
Station Guesthouse...........................29
HUNGARY
24
EATING
Bagolyvr.........................................30
Borvendgl 1894............................31
Hemingway.....................................32
Paprika Vendegl.............................33
e utc
Timr
utca
To Mogyord (19km);
Hungaroring (19km)
Vci t
2 km
1 mile
Gy
ri
KbnyaKispest
To Ferihegy 1 &
2 airports (24km)
Batthyny
tr
utca
tca
utca
Szalag
Jgvere
utca
d u
tca
ca
To Fono Budai
t
Zenehz
a
yalj
(700m)
Heg
i ut
Kere
Hadnagy
ca
19
tca
szt u
ca
ut
nte
rt
Tra
Szarvas
tr
bre
ut
ina
Tabn
J utca
Ybl
Mikls
tr
at Ferdinand
rk Gate
28
zs
is
kpart
ca
At
szt
gr
Csere
al
Kri
Ti
rd ra
ut
Naphegy
tr
De
utc
tca
iu
til
Dzsa
tr
Ke
At
ca
ya
zn
Lis
ut
ca
ut
Rive
chd
ja
gy
rt
Ln
rakpa
rl
he
czai
i als
tin
Belg
Buda
lot
ca
Pa
ut
11
Szent
Gyrgy
tr
isz
ep
Etvs
tr
Ap
di
Kr
F utca
Roosevelt
tr
d
lnch )
enyi
e
Szch ain Bridg
(Ch
Clark
dm
Apor
Pter utca tr
z
Sznh
utca
Krisztina
go
Lo
Dsz
tr
t utca
Vigyz
HUNGARY
rno
tca
Alag
nos utca
Arany J
no
utca
Szchenyi
Danub
i J
Ndor utc
tc
SLEEPING
Art'otel Budapest............................. 17
Burg Hotel........................................18
Bro Panzi......................................19
Citadella Hotel................................. 20
Gold Hotel........................................21
Hotel Kulturinnov.............................22
ad
Zo
ia
Akad m
utca
F utc
tca
iu
ny
ca
ut
ca
ut
Pon
Hu
ku
rakpart
Budai als
part
Bem rak
su
a
ty utc
ltn utca
akpart
Szchenyi r
Szilgyi
Dezs tr
Corvin
17
tr
16
A2
B3
A3
B3
Garibaldi utc
ca
c utca
a
M utc
ca
ut
na
Feren
Iskola ut
Toldy
krt
utca
rtu
Fo
Vzivros
(Watertown)
utca
Vm
va
til
INFORMATION
American Clinics.................................1
German Embassy................................2
Mellow Mood Ltd Stand....................3
Tourinform Castle Hill.........................4
Tram 19
ti u
Hu
nfa
lvy
tya
bs Nemzeti Archvum
njou
A
(National Archives)
Tn
Kapisztrn
csic
tr 9
s
Petermann
br utca
6
Tth rpd
stny O
rsz Hess Andrs
tr
g
h
10
2
z u 25
tc 29
14
a
7
18
Szenthromsg
15
utca
4
22
23
Szenthromsg
tr
di
Batthyny tr
BKV ferry landing
na
Bcsi kapu tr
(Vienna Gate
Square)
Do
Apr
utc
At
it
arg
ez
ny utca
os
rm
Batthy
Jn
utc
go
Lo
4
26
tro
Lo
Dli
plyaudvar
Dli
Train
Station
Travel Agencies
You can get information, book tours and
transport, and arrange accommodation at
travel agencies in Budapest. They also sell
discount cards.
Ibusz (Map p362; %485 2716; www.ibusz.hu; V Feren-
th
Fi
a
tin
isz t
Kr kr
HUNGARY
tca
Vrmez
To Bratislava;
Vienna
y utc
Lovas t
zu
Csalogny utca
Hatt
Vrfok utca
utc
Tourist Information
tca
ny u Os
hy
Batt
ros
tca
The majority of year-round hostels offer internet access (free to 250Ft per half hour).
Among the most accessible internet cafs in
Budapest are the following.
Ami Internet Coffee (Map p362; %267 1644; V Vci
utca
nyi Irn
Vars
Moszkva
tr
Internet Access
Moszkva
tr
Post
Szna tr
Bus Station
24 Szna
utca tr
27
kr
19
ina
Emergency
Retek
szt
Mammut II
Shopping Mall
Mammut I
Shopping Mall
Kri
ku
500 m
0.3 miles
To Bambi
Presszo (300m)
rfo
Discount Cards
0
0
CENTRAL BUDA
v
Bookshops
B U D A P E S T C e n t r a l B u d a 361
INFORMATION
Money
www.lonelyplanet.com
Alkots krt
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utca
13
21
C3
B3
A1
D6
B6
B3
EATING
Caf Mir.........................................23 B3
A1
B3
A4
A1
C5
SHOPPING
Magyar Borok Hza (House of
Hungarian Wines)........................ 29 B3
20
12
Gellrt Hill
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0
0
CENTRAL PEST
di
sy
Vc
utca
ca
ut
tca
au
sik
tca
bu
Do
Erz
ca
ut
ca
ly
ut
Ki
ul
au
rsf
51
75
ca
ca
ut
ut
fa
sz
rt
tca
Ke
Ak
utc
Pa
Ed
ay
tk
uz
Kla
Szvetsg utca
be
ln
se
es
74
tca
bu
Do
a
utc
a
r
utc
Ny
fa
Di
gy
Na
Br
Jzsefvros
utca
iczky
Rev
Klvin tr
Da
li
y utca
Krdy Gyula
utca
VIII
48
Baross utc
Markusovszky
tr
tca
iu
izs
Kin
utc
tc
ru
day
tca
ve
Ri
ak
zr
zu
Lnya
be
nu
66
Ferencvros
Mikszth
Klmn tr
rt
26
64 m utca
Mzeu
Jzsef k
ar
G
utcnczy
a
Rkczi
tr
IX
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www.lonelyplanet.com
INFORMATION
American Express........................ 1 B4
Ami Internet Coffee.................... 2 B5
Austrian Embassy....................... 3 D2
CEU Net Point.............................4 B3
Croatian Embassy....................... 5 D1
Debrecen Summer University
Branch.....................................6 A1
District V Police Station...............7 B2
Hungarian Equestrian Tourism
Association............................. 8 C6
Ibusz...........................................9 B5
Irish Embassy.............................10 B3
Irk Boltja................................. 11 C3
K&H Bank.................................12 B5
Libri Stdium.............................13 B5
Main Post Office.......................14 B4
National Association of Village
Tourism................................ 15 D3
OTP Bank................................. 16 A4
Pegazus Tours...........................17 B5
Post Office................................ 18 C2
Red Bus Second-hand
Bookstore...........................(see 50)
S O S Dental Service................. 19 B4
Terz Gygyszertr................... 20 C2
Tourinform Liszt Ferenc
Square....................................21 C3
Tourinform Main Office............ 22 B4
UK Embassy..............................23 B4
US Embassy...............................24 B3
Vista Visitor Centre.................(see 68)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Budapest Eye.............................25 C1
Gellrt Frd (Gellrt Baths)...(see 39)
Holocaust Memorial................(see 29)
Magyar Nemzeti Mzeum
(Hungarian National
Museum).............................. 26 C5
Mahart PassNave sightseeing
cruises.................................. 27 A5
B U D A P E S T S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s 363
A2
C4
A2
B3
C2
B5
B4
SLEEPING
Best Hostel................................35
Best Hotel Service.....................36
Caterina Hostel......................... 37
Corinthia Grand Hotel Royal.... 38
Danubius Hotel Gellrt..............39
Four Seasons Hotel................... 40
Garibaldi Guesthouse................ 41
Hostel Marco Polo.................... 42
Hotel Ibis Centrum................... 43
Hotel Queen Mary....................44
Klvin Hz................................ 45
Leo Panzi................................46
Mellow Mood Central Hostel....47
Museum Guest House.............. 48
Radio Inn.................................. 49
Red Bus Hostel..........................50
Red Bus II................................. 51
To-Ma Travel Agency...............52
Yellow Submarine Hostel..........53
C2
B4
C2
D4
B6
A4
A3
C4
C6
C3
C6
B5
B4
D5
D2
B4
D3
B3
B2
EATING
Al-Amir..................................... 54
Angyalok Konyhja...................55
Fatl..........................................56
Frici Papa..................................57
Kk Rzsa................................. 58
Kaiser's..................................... 59
Kaisers......................................60
Kis Italia....................................61
Kisharang..................................62
Menza...................................... 63
C3
B1
B6
C3
C4
D4
B2
B2
B3
C3
Mzeum................................... 64
Nagycsarnok (Great Market).... 65
Rday tkezde.......................... 66
Taverna Dionysos..................... 67
Vista Caf................................. 68
C5
C6
C6
B6
B4
DRINKING
Centrl Kvehz....................... 69
Eckermann................................70
Gerbeaud..................................71
Lukcs...................................... 72
Sark.......................................... 73
Szimpla/Dupla.......................... 74
C5
C3
B4
D2
C4
D3
ENTERTAINMENT
Angyal...................................... 75
Caf Eklektika........................... 76
Cha Cha Cha............................ 77
Gdr Klub...............................78
Kalamajka Tnchz................... 79
Liszt Ferenc Zeneakadmia....... 80
Magyar llami Operahz
(Hungarian State
Opera House)........................
81
Music Mix.................................82
Traf Br Tang....................... 83
Vigad Jegyiroda...................... 84
SHOPPING
Folkart Centrum........................85
Folkart Kzmveshz................86
Magyar Palinka Hza................ 87
Rzsavlgyi Music Shop............88
Retrock..................................... 89
TRANSPORT
BKV Office............................... 90
Hungarian Bicycle Touring
Association............................91
Kenguru................................... 92
MV Ticket Office.................... 93
Mahart PassNave Ticket Office..94
D3
C4
C6
B4
A3
C3
C3
B5
D6
A4
B5
B4
C5
B4
C5
D4
B3
D5
C3
B5
CASTLE HILL
HUNGARY
362 R U N A PN G T E AD C n tR a ln Pen g s u b h e a d
B DNI ESH
e r u ni st
For a peek into the life of the Budapest bourgeoisie, check out the mansions of the Buda
Hills to the south of the ramparts promenade.
Follow the third alleyway to your left and you
reach Szenthromsg tr and the Szenthromsg
szobor (Holy Trinity Statue; Map p361) at its centre.
Dont miss the gorgeous, neo-Gothic Mtys Templom (Matthias Church; Map p361; %489 0717;
I Szenthromsg tr; adult/student 600/300Ft; h9am-5pm
Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun), with a colourful tiled roof and
I Szenthromsg tr; adult/student 330/160Ft; h8.30am11pm). The fanciful, neo-Gothic arcade built on
%227 7446; www.szoborpark.hu; XXII Szabadkai t; admission 600Ft; h10am-dusk), a kind of historical
views from the little capsule, across the Danube and over to Pest, are glorious. The Sikl
takes you down the hill to Clark dm tr.
The massive Kirlyi Palota (Royal Palace; Map p361)
occupies the far end of Castle Hill; inside are
the Magyar Nemzeti Galria (Hungarian National Gallery;
AQUINCUMI MZEUM
Pest
HSK TERE & AROUND
www.lonelyplanet.com
B U D A P E S T S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s 365
HUNGARY
HUNGARY
www.lonelyplanet.com
B DNI ESH
o s
366 R U N A PN G T E AD T u rR u n n i n g s u b h e a d
SLEEPING
Accommodation prices and standards are
pretty reasonable in Budapest. Many yearround hostels occupy middle floors of old
apartment buildings (with or without a lift)
in central Pest. Come summer (July to late
Buda
BUDGET
B U D A P E S T S l e e p i n g 367
todays luxury standards, staying here guarantees use of big, fluffy bathrobes you can wear
on your way to free access to the Gellrt Baths
(p364). Purr.
Artotel Budapest (Map p361; %487 9487; www.art
otel.hu; I Bem rakpart 16-19; r 198-318; pnai)
Pest
BUDGET
TOP END
HUNGARY
HUNGARY
TOURS
Bookw . l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m www.lonelyplanet.com
w w accommodation online at
B DNI ESH
l R
368 R U N A PN G T E AD S e e p iunngn i n g s u b h e a d
cafs of Kertsz street, this hotel, in a 19thcentury building, has neat rooms with modern
furniture and hanging potted plants. If youre
travelling in a group, ask about the triples (75
to 105) and quads (84 to 112).
Leo Panzi (Map p362; %266 9041; www.leopanzio
.hu; V Kossuth Lajos utca 2/A, 2nd fl; s 45-66, d 69-82;
na) Just steps from Vci utca, the Leo is in
the middle of everything. Rooms have an Art
Deco-ish flair with cherry-stained beds inset
with blonde wood. Some have views of Elizabeth Bridge. The tiny bathrooms sparkle.
Klvin Hz (Map p362; %216 4635; www.kalvin
house.hu; IX Gnczy Pl utca 6; s 55-62, d 65-82; ni)
Bookw . l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m www.lonelyplanet.com
w w accommodation online at
EATING
Its becoming more common to find both Hungarian and international cuisines on the streets
of Budapest. There are restaurants so modern
and trendy that they could sit proudly in the
streets of Manhattan, and others that are oblivious to the concept of change, with traditional
food and old-fashioned dcor. Both types can be
equally good (or bad), and theres no guarantee
that going posh will result in better nosh. In any
case, eating out is affordable in Budapest, and
even on the tightest of budgets you should be
able to squeeze in one upmarket restaurant.
Fast-food restaurants and take-away windows abound on the ring roads and in pedestrian areas. The train and bus stations all
have food stands.
Rday utca and Liszt Ferenc tr are the two
most popular traffic-free streets. The moment
the weather warms up, tables and umbrellas
spring up on the pavements and the people of
Budapest crowd the streets. Both areas have tons
of cafs, restaurants, snack shops and bars.
TOP END
Buda
BUDGET
B U D A P E S T E a t i n g 369
MIDRANGE
Caf Mir (Map p361; %375 5458; I ri utca 30; mains 6902190Ft; h9am-midnight) Most restaurants on Castle
Hill have surly service and are full of tourists.
This arty caf is no exception, but the soups
and Greek salad are good. For dessert there are
plenty of cakes to choose from, and the delicious
erdei gymlcskremleves (forest berry soup) is
topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
Tabni Kakas (Map p361; %375 7165; I Attila t 27;
mains 1900Ft; hnoon-midnight) Everything here is
cooked in goose fat, and delicious it is. The
place is old-fashioned and dimly lit, and the
service friendly. Try the crispy goose leg with
juicy, cooked red cabbage and potato and
onion mash absolutely ravishing.
TOP END
watch as its grilled in front of you. The allyou-can-eat price includes as much house
beer and wine as you can sink, too.
Pest
BUDGET
Frici Papa (Map p362; %351 0197; VII Kirly utca 55; mains
400-700Ft; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat) A popular place
for a basic, hearty, no-frills Hungarian meal
where you sit elbow-to-elbow with workers,
riff-raff, families and tourists. For the price
theres a surprising amount of white-meat
chicken in the soup.
Kisharang (Map p362; %269 3861; V Oktber 6 utca 17;
mains 490-850Ft; h11am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-4.30pm
Sat & Sun) Lantern-like lamps hang low over
Descend into this cellar restaurant for interesting pizza combinations such as bacon,
onion and pickle at low prices. Just ignore
the cheesy synthesizer player in the corner;
hes not too loud.
Rday tkezde (Map p362; %219 5451; IX Rday utca
29; mains 420-650Ft; h6am-4pm Mon-Fri) Of the many
takeaway windows and self-service places
HUNGARY
HUNGARY
www.lonelyplanet.com
Al-Amir (Map p362; %352 1422; VII Kirly utca 17; mains
700-1500Ft;hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat; 1-11pm Sun) Good
Middle Eastern food is hard to come by in
Hungary, but this place is excellent. Pictures of
mysterious eyes behind veils and camels in the
desert decorate the spacious, otherwise plain
space. Order either a meze-type meal, combining the many starters, or try the kebabs and a
nice tabbouleh. No alcohol is served.
Paprika Vendegl (Map pp358-9; %06 70 574 6508;
I Dzsa Gyrgy t 72; mains 950-1600Ft;h11am-11pm)
TOP END
Fatl (Map p362; %266 2607; V Vci utca 67, cnr Pintr utca;
mains 1580-2490Ft; h11.30am-2am) A whimsical
menu prefaces the fun at this cellar restaurant
with medieval adornment. The homy Hungarian dishes are served in gigantic portions.
Weve heard comment that waiters can be
brusque with foreigners, but that wasnt our
experience. Book ahead.
Bagolyvr (Owls Castle; Map pp358-9; %468 3110; XIV
llatkert t 2; mains 1600-3500Ft; hnoon-11pm) Gundels
first sibling, the Owls Castle, is known for
Hungarian classics done impeccably. The hidden courtyard tables are a pleasant surprise.
Borvendgl 1894 (Map pp358-9; %468 4040; XIV
llatkert t 2; mains 1650-2700Ft; h6-11pm Tue-Sat) This
wine cellar is one of the two sister restaurants
to the world-famous (and overpriced) Gundel
restaurant around the corner. The best things
about the place are the choice of wine for tasting and the traditional Hungarian drinking
snacks goose cracklings, steak tartar and
pogacs (salty, buttery biscuits).
Mzeum (Map p362; %267 0375; VIII Mzeum krt 12;
mains 2400-4400Ft; h10.30am-1.30am) Fin-de-sicle
ambience, wide lanterns hanging low from the
high ceilings, the Mzeum is like an old friend
to many of Budapests diners. The Hungarian
food is good and varied, the service is smooth
and the place stays open late.
DRINKING
One of Budapests ceaseless wonders is the
number of bars, cellars, cafs, clubs and general places to drink. The cafs usually serve
cakes, and the bars almost always have live
music, and, if you can see through the smoke
curtains, lovely (or at least interesting) dcor.
Buda
Kisrabl (Map pp358-9; %209 1588; XI Zenta utca 3;
h11am-2am) The eclectic pub dcor here resembles a boats hull, busty masthead and all.
Take tram 19 or 49 one stop past Danubius
Hotel Gellrt.
Zld Prdon (Map pp358-9; XI rin Jzsef utca at Petfi
hd; Map pp358-9; h9am-6am mid-Aprmid-Sep) College
students on a budget flock to the big, seasonal
beer garden and disco near Petfi Bridge.
Pest
Sark (Map p362; %328 0753; VII Klauzl tr 14; h10am2am Mon-Thu & Sun, 10am-3am Fri & Sat) A small bar on
two levels with an airy ground floor and a large
photo mural decorating the space. Downstairs
is a smoky cellar where a Romani band plays
every Tuesday (see p372) and a mix of foreigners, Hungarians and Roma jump around together. During the day its a quiet place, nice
for a coffee, but come evening time, Sark gets
packed and the atmosphere is fab.
Szimpla/Dupla (Map p362; %342 8991; VII Kertsz
utca 48; hnoon-2am) Perhaps it was the espressos
that inspired the name (szimpla means single
and dupla double) of these two excellent
places. The caf and restaurant are connected
by a long, atmospheric cellar bar and make a
kind of two-in-one experience. The furniture
is distressed, the cutlery and crockery rescued
from flea markets, and the crowd super relaxed. Theres live jazz on Fridays.
Eckermann (Map p362; %374 4076; VI Andrssy t 24;
h9am-11pm Mon-Sat; 10am-10pm Sun) Part of the
Goethe Institut, this airy caf attracts an intellectual crowd that is invariably either reading
the newspapers or discussing what theyve
just read in the newspapers. They are apparently refugees from the now tourist-occupied
Mvsz across the street. Try the plentiful
Viennese coffee, served in bowls, and excellent pastries, perfect for breakfast. In the
evenings Eckermann turns out the lights and
lights up candles, and the clientele sips wine
and discusses tomorrows news.
Centrl Kvehz (Map p362; %266 4572; V Krolyi
Mihly utca 9; h7am-1am) Having been closed for a
B U D A P E S T E n t e r t a i n m e n t 371
ENTERTAINMENT
Budapest has a nightlife that can keep you up
for days on end. And we dont mean you trying to get to sleep in your hotel room while the
club next door pounds its techno against your
walls. There are nightclubs, bars, live concerts
classical and folk Hungarian traditional dancing nights, opera treats, ballet, DJ bars and
random Cinetrip (www.cinetrip.hu) club nights
at the thermal spas. Yes, you heard us right. Its
you, your swimsuit, your mates and a bunch of
strangers, wading waist deep in thermal waters
to thumping beats, and its fantastic.
Ticket prices are quite reasonable by Western
European standards, and the venues are often
stunning. To find out whats on, contact Tourinform (see p360) or ticket offices, or check
out the free, bimonthly Programme Magazine
(available at tourist spots), and the free, weekly
Pesti Est (available at restaurants and clubs).
The weekly Budapest Sun (www.budapestsun
.com) has a 10-day event calendar online, and
Budapest Week Online (www.budapestweek
.com) has events, music and movie listings.
HUNGARY
HUNGARY
MIDRANGE
www.lonelyplanet.com
372 R U N A PN G T E AD S o pRpui n n i n g s u b h e a d
B DNI ESH
h
g
Feel a bit royal and get a box and some binoculars at this amazing, gilt-laden place that
was built in 1884. Every opera performance is
an event with a capital E. The ballet company
performs here as well.
Liszt Ferenc Zeneakadmia (Map p362; %342 0179;
www.musicacademy.hu; VI Liszt Ferenc tr 8; h10am-2pm
Mon-Fri, 2-8pm Sat & Sun for ticket office) You can hear the
Nightclubs
Clubbing in Budapest can mean anything
from a floor-thumping techno club to a hip
place to hang out and listen to jazz. Cover
charges range from 200Ft to 1000Ft.
Cha Cha Cha (Map p362; V Klvin tr metro station;
h11am-5am) Dozens of jeans and corduroy
trousers were sacrificed to upholster the
furniture in metro stationbased Cha Cha
Cha, Budapests hippest bar-club with the
citys best DJs playing records until the first
morning trains start running, so the punters
SHOPPING
Apart from the usual folk arts, wines and spirits, food and music, there are a few interesting
flea markets and some great young-designer
shops. Tons of shops along Vci utca (p365)
and stands on the top floor of the Nagycsarnok (p365) sell Hungarian souvenirs, but the
real souvenir-shoppers paradise is the old
town centre at Szentendre (p374), just 40
minutes away by commuter rail.
Folkart Kzmveshz (Map p362; %318 5143;
V Rgiposta utca 12; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)
clothes shop, where a bunch of young Hungarian and international designers produce
kitschy, stylish and always unique clothes at
affordable prices.
Theres an excellent selection of Hungarian
wines at the Magyar Borok Hza (House of Hungarian Wines; Map p361; %212 1031; www.magyarborokhaza
.hu; I Szenthromsg tr 6; hnoon-8pm) in Buda, and
www.lonelyplanet.com
Boat
In addition to its hydrofoils that travel internationally to Bratislava and Vienna (p409),
Mahart PassNave (Map p362; % 484 4005; www
.mahartpassnave.hu; Vigad tr Pier) ferries depart for
Szentendre, Visegrd and Esztergom in the
Danube Bend daily, April to October.
Bus
Volnbusz (%219 8080; www.volanbusz.hu), the national bus line, has an extensive list of destinations from Budapest. All international buses
and some buses to/from southern Hungary
use Npliget bus station (Map pp358-9; %264 3939;
IX lli t 131). Stadion bus station (Map pp358-9; %252
4498; XIV Hungria krt 48-52) serves most domestic
destinations. Most buses to the northern Danube Bend arrive at and leave from the rpd
hd bus station (Map pp358-9; %329 1450, off XIII Rbert
Kroly krt). All stations are on metro lines, and
all are in Pest. If the ticket office is closed, you
can buy your ticket on the bus.
For details of international bus services
within Eastern Europe, see p408 and p929.
B U D A P E S T G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 373
Train
The Hungarian State Railways, MV (%461 5400
domestic information, 461 5500 international information;
www.elvira.hu) covers the country well and has
its schedule online. The MV Ticket Office (Map
p362; %461 5400; VI Andrssy t 35; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri
Apr-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Oct-Mar) provides informa-
GETTING AROUND
HUNGARY
HUNGARY
.aranytiz.hu, Hungarian only; V Arany Jnos utca 10; h9pm2am Sat) The Kalamajka is an excellent place to
www.lonelyplanet.com
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INFORMATION
Game Planet.......................................1
Main Post Office................................2
OTP Bank...........................................
3
Tourinform.........................................4
Dan
renc utca
13
3
12
Kucsera Fe
ab
rt
prik
pa
Pa
Szentendre
Island
korz
szk
kk
St
re
Pe
fi
am
nd
or
ut
ca
B2
B3
B1
B2
B1
B1
B1
B1
B1
B1
akan
yar
Vasti
14
kr
Train
Station
Duna
korz
SLEEPING
Bkks Hotel....................................11 A2
Dun
Villasor
ilin
300 m
0.2 miles
Duna
yi
ny
utc
a
9
Vrhegy
(Castle Hill)
F tr
gd
Bajcsy
Alkotm
no
HUNGARY
Dont miss the extensive Szabadtri Nprajzi Mzeum (Open-Air Ethnographic Museum; %502 500;
10 5
0
0
Bo
Ptrirka utca
To Szabadtri Nprajzi
Mzeum (Open-Air
Ethnographic
Museum, 3.5km)
kk
SZENTENDRE
Overcharging foreigners (rigged meters, detours) is common. Never get into a taxi that
does not have an official yellow licence plate, the
combined Hungarian folk, religious and modern themes to create her much beloved figures.
Uphill to the northwest, a narrow passageway
leads up from between F tr 8 and 9 to Vrhegy (Castle Hill) and the Szent Janos Plbnia Templom (Parish Church of St John; Vrhegy), rebuilt in 1710,
from where you get great views of the town
krt
Taxi
Dunakanyar
utc
SZENTENDRE
Sights
Public Transport
To Budapest (19km)
EATING
Rab Rby.......................................... B1
12
Rgimdi.......................................... B1
13
TRANSPORT
HV Train & Bus Stations..................14 B3
HUNGARY
Ka
T H E D A N U B E B E N D S z e n t e n d re 375
rtorony utca
Boat
www.lonelyplanet.com
www.lonelyplanet.com
no
374 R H E N IA N U B EA D E ND Ru n n izn g st u b h e a d
T UN D NGHE B
S e n e n d re
376 R H E N IA N U B EA D E ND Ru n n i n e g u d e a d
T UN D NGHE B
V s gsr bh
VISEGRD
%26 / pop 1500
The spectacular views from the ruins of Visegrds (vish-eh-grahd) 13th-century citadel,
high on a hill above a curve in the Danube,
are what pulls visitors to this sleepy town. The
w w accommodation online at
Bookw . l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m www.lonelyplanet.com
T H E D A N U B E B E N D E s z t e r g o m 377
ESZTERGOM
%33 / pop 28,900
HUNGARY
HUNGARY
.hu; camp sites per person 6, caravan sites 15, motel room
with shared bathroom 22, 2-bedroom bungalows 32-40;
hMaymid-Oct; p) The grounds have large
www lonelyplanet.com
Book accommodation online at .www.lonelyplanet.com
378 R H E N IA N U B EA D E ND Ru n n sn ge rugbohm a d
T UN D NGHE B
Ei zt s
e
Primates Palace (1882). The stunning collection of medieval religious art includes a statue
of the Virgin Mary from the 11th century.
Cross the bridge south of Watertown Parish
Church and about 100m further down is Mria
Valria Bridge. Destroyed during WWII, it once
again connects Esztergom with Slovakia and
the city of trovo. St Istvn Frd (%312 249;
ornate vestments and the 13th-century Hungarian coronation cross. Among those buried
in the altemplom (crypt; admission 100Ft; h9am-5pm)
under the cathedral is the controversial Cardinal Mindszenty, who was imprisoned by the
communists for refusing to allow Hungarys
Catholic schools to be secularised.
At the southern end of the hill is the Vr
Mzeum (Castle Museum; %415 986; adult/student 460/240Ft;
h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar), inside the
reconstructed remnants of the medieval royal
palace (1215), which was built upon previous
castles. The earliest excavated sections on the
hill date from the 2nd to 3rd centuries.
Southwest of the cathedral along the banks of
the Little Danube, narrow streets wind through
the Vzivros (Watertown) district, home
to the Vzivros Plbnia Templom (Watertown
Parish Church; 1738) at the start of Bernyi
Zsigmond utca. The Keresztny Mzeum (Christian
Although frequent transportation connections make Esztergom an easy day trip from
Budapest, you might want to stop a night if
you are going on to Slovakia. Contact Gran
Tours (p377) about private rooms, for around
4000Ft per person.
Gran Camping (%411 953; fortanex@alexero.hu;
Nagy-Duna stny 3; camp sites per person 1100Ft, dm/r
1700/6000Ft, bungalows 12,000-16,000Ft; hMay-Sep; p)
ge
tca
su
Lajo
ny
y
n
zm
P Mindszenty
tere
thy
BE
DANU
11
Pter utca
Jzsef Attila
tr
Gesztenye f
9
Ba
jcs
y-
Zs
Primate
Island
er
Riv
Town
Hall
14
Kossuth
le
Dun
Kis-
Litt
tny
a s
Dun
11
Na
gy-
Szchenyi
tr
Rkczi
tr
1
To Train Station
(1.2km)
To Jde Forrs
tterem (200m)
utca
EATING
Food stands...............................12 D2
Olasz Vendegl......................... 13 D2
Piac (market).............................14 D2
a s anube
t
ny
j utca
10
V 2
utc
dor
SLEEPING
Alabrdos Panzi..........................9 C1
Gran Camping............................10 B3
Ria Panzi..................................11 D1
Gzha
C1
C1
ma
s
r
Sn
Mahart
Ferry
Pier
tca
u
rty
13
inc
Belvros
Lr
C1
C1
D2
utca
fi
s Mih ly
Pet
Tncs ic
szk
12 y
Bottyn
Bridge
ca
ut
INFORMATION
Gran Tours...................................1 D2
K&H Bank....................................2 D2
Post Office...................................3 D3
Zsilinszky utca, cnr Szent Istvn frd; snacks 200-600Ft; h8am8pm) sell burgers, gyros, falafel and the like.
ilin
aso
Smor Jnos
utca
lria Brid
Vzivros
7
HUNGARY
Lajos utca
Mria Va
800 m
0.5 miles
To Visegrd
(25km)
SLOVAKIA
To Budapest
Istv
jer
Ma utca
RIVER
ond
Zsigm
Ber nyiutca
0
0
Bat
ESZTERGOM
Malonyai utca
Bus
Station
N O R T H W E S T E R N H U N G A R Y G y r 379
NORTHWESTERN
HUNGARY
The closer you get to the Austrian border, the
more prominent the seductive atmosphere of
the gilded days of the Austro-Hungarian empire becomes. Northwestern Hungary beyond
the Bakony Hills is bounded by the Danube
to the east and the Alps to the west. The old
quarters of Sopron and Gyr are brimming
with what were once the residences of prosperous burghers and clerics. Fertd, outside
Sopron, is a magnificent baroque palace and
Pannonhalma, outside Gyr, is an early Benedictine monastery still in operation.
GYR
%96 / pop 129,500
HUNGARY
HUNGARY
www.lonelyplanet.com
GYR
A
To Istvn Szchenyi
University (200m)
czy t
INFORMATION
1
Ibusz.................................................
Main Post Office.............................. 2
OTP Bank........................................3
Polarnet Internet Caf......................4
Tourinform...................................... 5
1
Mo
Dan soniRiv ube
er
B3
D4
C3
C3
C4
300 m
0.2 miles
To Hullm
Disco Klub (1km)
ca
Nef
a
utc
utca
rG
czo
Czu
Kapta
zg
lando
Ors
mb
elejc
12
ren
i Fe
cz
Rk
16
s
ss
u
ut th L
ca aj
o
or
ly u
tca
bor
G
R
ba
t
d
rp
Budapest (109km)
rge
oss
Ge
Bar
Rive
Ko
il
-Zs
sy
Bajc
zk
ins
ucz
20
Virgpiac
(Flower
Market)
23
Cz
Peterf
y utc
a
tja
Aran
Jn
Sch
18
tca
os u
21
Bajc
t
ai u
Jk
Ze
ru
te
eis
m
ch
szk
ilin
Zs
sy-
ca
ca
rp
Market
nk
Be
utc
lak
utc
22
a
R v
iM
ikl
su
t ca
Esz
t
yi u
Zrn
Train
Station
p er
ant
tca
Bus
Station
ca
Klv
ria
utc
a
ca
i ut
yad
Hun
ca
s ut
uta
Vas
Honvd utca
To Pannonhalma
Abbey (21km)
utca
Hunyadi
(Pannonhalma Abbey; %570 191; www.osb.hu, no English; Vr 1; adult/student Hungarian tour 1200/500Ft, adult/
student foreign-language tour 1900/1200Ft; hclosed Mon Oct-May), now a Unesco World Heritage site.
aly
Uj
Take half a day and make the short trip to the ancient and impressive Pannonhalmi Faptsg
Honvd
liget
Mih
nc
z
r
csy
Sz
hid
Mu
Vroshza
tr
oss
t
n
tv
Is
ent
Bar
City Hall
utc
Petofi
hid
Most buildings in the complex date from the 13th to the 18th centuries; highlights include the
Romanesque basilica (1225), the Gothic cloister (1486) and the impressive collection of ancient
texts in the library. Because its an active monastery, the abbey must be visited with a guide.
From mid-March to mid-November, foreign-language tours in English, Italian, German, French
and Russian are conducted at 11.20am, 1.20pm and 3.20pm.
Pannonhalma is best reached from Gyr by bus as the train station is 2km southwest of the abbey.
A direct bus runs daily from the Gyr bus station to the abbey (Pannonhalma, vr fkapu stop)
at 8am, 10am and noon (289Ft, 40 minutes), returning at 8.50am, 12.50pm and 5.35pm. Buses go
hourly from Gyr to the town of Pannonhalma. The abbey is a 15-minute, uphill walk from there.
HUNGARY
lud
a
utc
ca
l ut
ide
we
fa
Kis
Petfi
tr
utca
ca
y ut
alud
Kisf
szl
a
utc
ki L
tca
cz y
tan
vr
in
Ka z
Tele
la u
17
Isko
utc
Bcs kapu
tr
9
15
6
di
Ara
19
ely
Rba ketts hd
Szchenyi
tr
tca
cu
ren
t Fe
Lisz
10
erg
a
utc
ly
Kir
11
HUNGARY
7
Apor Vilmos
pspk tere
utc
13
utca
s ut
nyo
ca
Ap
D4
arty
Jedli
14
C4
C4
A6
sm
Market
mb
ndo
tala
Kap
B4
C4
A3
Vr
Dunakapu
tr
tca
ya u
Bst
N O R T H W E S T E R N H U N G A R Y G y r 381
0
0
Kl
ut
ca
tca
u
ok
arn
Cs
Market
Sas
tr
ny
utc verem
a
Church of the
Holy Spirit
21
Vrk
erle
Fr
Do
re
st
nt M
Sze
13
Ha
4
ca
ls
Elkapu
11
F tr
tc
iu
zu
tca
ut
K
r
Sc
rm
tca
ly u
ih
15
rfm
utc eiste
a r
Szlmalom utca
a
tc
su
no
J
zi
nc
10
lek
utca
tca
j u
Szent Gy
Szn
Templom utc
rke
rl
et
ca
16
20
Htskapu
Erz
sb
ut
ca
To Esterhzy
Kasthly (28km);
Fertd (28km)
INFORMATION
1
Internet Centrum Sopron....................
Main Post Office................................2
OTP Bank...........................................3
4
Tourinform.........................................
utc
Dek
tr
ty
sk
ir
ly
tv
B2
B3
C2
B1
stayed in 1482 while his armies lay siege to Vienna. Today it houses a local history exhibition.
Upstairs at Fabricius Hz (%311 327; F tr 6; adult/
Tztorony (FireTower)......................11 B2
j Zsinagga (New Synagogue)........12 B2
Zettl-Langer Gyjtemny
13
(Zettl-Langer Collection)............... C1
a
ut
kir
utc
ly
et
utc
ca
Szchenyi
tr
2
17
SLEEPING
Hotel Wollner...................................14 B2
Jgverem Fogad.............................15 C1
EATING
Czr Pince.......................................16 B3
Dmtri..........................................17 A3
Generlis-Corvinus.........................(see 10)
Match..............................................18 C2
DRINKING
Liszt Szalon.......................................19 B2
ENTERTAINMENT
20
Liszt Ferenc Kulturlis Kzpont.......... B3
Swing................................................ B1
21
HUNGARY
Hd
ut
ls
H
tu
ca
Orsolya tr
Ferenc ut
Arpd ut
18
lfi
Petfi
Theatre
12
19
Ba
7
14
trea
To Vkaci
Vendghz (1.5km);
zon Camping
(4.5km)
ca
aS
hz
3
1
Ikv
gabona
tr
rgy utca
te
j
r utca
Magya
La
ck
Bus ner
Kr
Station
i
em
ver
Jg utca
400 m
0.2 miles
0
0
cs
SOPRON
Entertainment
or
SOPRON
N O R T H W E S T E R N H U N G A R Y S o p r o n 383
as
www.lonelyplanet.com
Fe
Ikv
HUNGARY
AUTHORS CHOICE
Hotel Wollner (%524 400; www.wollner.hu;
Templom utca 20; s/d/tr 68/75/100; pn) The
hotel is 300 years old, and the wine cellar
a hundred more, with over 110 varieties of
delicious wine on offer. Each room is decorated with elegant, simple furniture (some
have sleigh beds!), the gleaming white walls
give a pristine feel, with a slice of the ancient, original wall showing for a peek into
the past. Navigate through the multilevel
passageways to a raised garden terrace at
the back of the property.
Drinking
Liszt Szalon (%323 407; Szent Gyrgy utca 12; drinks 190490Ft; h10am-10pm) A wonderful, old-world coffeehouse dedicated to Liszt (of course), with
the composers concert posters from all over
the world. Good coffee and Aztec chocolate,
spiced with chilli.
L A K E B A L AT O N B a l a t o n f re d 385
BALATONFRED
%87 / pop 13,500
Entertainment
LAKE BALATON
The 77km-long Lake Balaton is Hungarys
seaside. This, the largest freshwater lake in
Europe outside Scandinavia, provides the
Hungarians (and foreigners) with fun in both
the summer and winter months. During the
summer, when the place is at its peak, its
all swimming and outdoor activities, and in
winter the locals get their skates on and glide
on the frozen lake.
Shallow water, sandy beaches and condominiums attract visitors to the southeastern
shore, where the commercialised towns are
pretty characterless. More-established towns,
trees and rolling hills, deeper water and less
sand await on the northwestern shore. Towns
on both sides are packed in July and August,
and all but deserted from December to February. Many facilities such as museums, pensions and restaurants close for the winter.
Balatonfred is easily accessed from all
points; Tihany peninsula is a nature reserve
and a village too cute to be true. Keszthely is
really the only town thats a town in its own
Sndor utca 68; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri & to 6pm Sat & Sun
Jun-Sep, to 5pm Mon-Fri & to 1pm Sat Mar-May & Oct, to
5pm Mon-Fri Nov-Feb) The main office is inconveniently located 1km northeast of the centre; a second Tourinform
branch (%580 480; Szchenyi utca 47; h9am-5pm
Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat May-Sep; to 3pm Mon-Fri Oct-Apr) is
annoyingly situated about 1.5km to the southwest.
commemorates the life of the acclaimed novelist in what was once his summer house
(1871). The heart of the old spa town is Gygy
HUNGARY
HUNGARY
www.lonelyplanet.com
INFORMATION
Fred Tourist..............................(see 13)
Main Tourinform............................1 D1
OTP Bank......................................2 C2
Post Office.....................................la D2
B3
Red Market
Church
Arcsi
Szent Istvn
tr
7
Ad
y
utc Endre
a
Cs
i
op
szl r
No sp
G
utc
Jk
ai
ru
Train Station
Bus
Station
tca
11
d
p
r utca
tca
ih
rv
ca
Ho
ut
mo
nd
Cso
kon
Gygy
State Hospital
tr
of Cardiology
utc
tca
iM
Lujz
ha
Bla
tca
u
dy
lu
sfa
ny
Ki
st
10 Tagore agore
Statue T
To Kisfaludy
Strand (800m)
Vitorls
tr
tca
cu
13
en
tca
tca
iS
tca
u
yL
do
tca
au
utc
du
nv
ru
12
iF
ny
tca
ko
er
Mahart
Ferry Pier
Food Stalls
To Tihany
(15km)
tca
u
yi
Sz
n
che
ai u
ka
Ho
dr
TIHANY
Fenyves Park
Zsig
ra u
En
Ga
nd
Tt
y
ra
fi
Pe
u
or
th
tca
utc
D3
C2
C3
D3
ray
tca
u
ly
Hu
rty
ma
rs a
V utc
b
Do
tca
stv
U
g
sa
r
zt
EATING
Balaton....................................10
lmiszer Szupermarket.............11
Halszkert................................12
Stfania Vittorls tterem........13
rto
Ba
500 m
0.3 miles
SLEEPING
Hotel Blaha Lujza.......................8 D2
Sport Panzi...............................9 B3
0
0
BALATONFRED
Szchenyi utca
HUNGARY
Lake Balaton
L A K E B A L AT O N Ti h a n y 387
tourist information.
HUNGARY
Bookw . l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m www.lonelyplanet.com
w w accommodation online at
ef utc
a
Jzs
Be
Helikon
Park
utca
ca
zy
c
zin
Ka
m utca
ut
Balatonpart
Tag
11
Mrtrok tja
12
Hullm
Hotel
Bus
Station
Mzeu
Kossu
th Lajo
s utca
tvn
Csk Is
St
Etvs utca
ore
ENTERTAINMENT
Easy Rider.........................................15 B3
Jancsi Kocsmja................................16 B2
HUNGARY
Train
Station
Mahart Ferry
Pier
Honve utca
t ics t
Rmai utca
Madch utca
st e
HUNGARY
Balaton utca
Hunyadi utc
tca
ucta
lyn
Mikls
ut ca
Szent
ucta
16
2
C2
A3
B1
D3
EATING
tca
cu
Bacchus............................................(see 8)
ren
Fe
Food Stands.....................................12 C3
ca
ra
ut
M
Margarta tterem...........................13 A2
t
Ap
Ozis................................................14 C1
ir
Rzsa
tk
15
Franciscan
Church
be
Sndor
Pannon
Agricultural
University
SLEEPING
Bacchus..............................................8
Jnos Vajda College...........................9
Prizsi Udvar.....................................
10
Phoenix Hotel..................................11
Market
8
Erz
13
utca
Sleeping
Rkczi
s utca
ry Kolo
Vasza
Town Hall
F tr
B2
B3
B2
B2
Park utca
ca
i ut
Szcheny
c utca
The lakefront area centres on the long Mahart ferry pier, which has a small caf near
the ferry landing at the end. From April to
September you can take a one-hour pleasure
cruise (%312 093; www.balatonihajozas.hu; Mahart ferry
pier; adult/student 1100/500Ft) on the lake at 1pm and
3pm daily. Vrosi Strand (City Beach; Vsar tr; adult/
Feren
renc utca
Peth Fe
1
utca
Vroshz
Dek
s utca
Bakac
utca
Bercsnyi Mikls
Georgikon utca
Gagarin utca
KESZTHELY
Rkczi
tr
Szala
INFORMATION
Keszthely Tourist................................1
Main Post Office................................2
OTP Bank...........................................3
Tourinform.........................................4
14
tca
szt u
10
n utca
500 m
0.3 miles
Lehel utca
Vak Botty
utca
To Hvz
(6km)
Bercsnyi Mikls
0
0
KESZTHELY
Lovassy
L A K E B A L AT O N K e s z t h e l y 389
Kastly
utca
Book . l o n e l y p l a n t . c o at
w w waccommodationeonlinem www.lonelyplanet.com
Fe
Pl u
tca
Lake
Balaton
To Zalatour
Camping (1km)
Entertainment
Numerous cultural performances take place
during the Balatonfest in May and the Dance
Festival in September. Tourinform has info
on events throughout the year.
Away from the waterfront, Kossuth Lajos
utca is where to look for pubs: Jancsi Kocsmja
(Kossuth Lajos utca 46; hnoon-midnight Mon-Fri, 6pmmidnight Sat & Sun), with tin advertising signs
AUTHORS CHOICE
Bacchus (% 510 450; www.bacchushotel.hu;
Erzsbet kirlyn utca 18; mains 700-2000Ft; p)
Most people come to Bacchus for the restaurant. Decorated as a hunters lodge, with
heavy wooden planks for seats and traditionally woven cloths, the cellar restaurant
opens to a sunny terrace in the summer. The
dishes consist mainly of meat and fish, and
is a taste-heaven for lovers of good roasts,
like succulent pork and beef surrounded
by crisp potato wedges, served on a wood
board. The bean soup is the best weve
tasted in the whole country!
10pm on weekends.
www.lonelyplanet.com
SOUTH CENTRAL
HUNGARY
If youve had enough of the strait-laced
Habsburg influence and want something a bit
more Mediterranean, head to Southern Hungary. Historically, the area bordering Croatia
and Serbia and Montenegro has often been
shared between Hungary and these countries,
and its here that the remnants of the 150-year
Turkish occupation can be most strongly felt.
In the Danube village of Mohcs, the Hungarian army under King Lajos II was routed by a
vastly superior Ottoman force in 1526.
The region is bounded by the Danube River
to the east, the Drva River to the south and
west, and Lake Balaton to the north. Generally
flat, the Mecsek and Villny Hills rise up in
isolation from the plain. The weather always
seems to be a few degrees warmer here than in
other parts of the country; the sunny clime is
great for grape growing, and oak-aged Villny
reds are well regarded, if highly tannic.
PCS
%72 / pop 158,900
S O U T H C E N T R A L H U N G A R Y P c s 391
HUNGARY
HUNGARY
Eating
www.lonelyplanet.com
0
0
PCS
A
300 m
0.2 miles
A4
B3
C3
A4
SLEEPING
SHOPPING
Hotel Diana....................................17 C4
Cezar Winery.................................27 A3
ut
Hotel Fnix....................................18iaC3 ca Zsolnay Bolt...................................28 B4
Klvr
Kishotel Centrum............................ B3
19
Palatinus........................................ 20 C3
To Manduls
Camping (3km)
utca
elde
nv
Pap
nk tja
Aradi vrta
25
Szenthromsg
ozlop (Holy
Trinity Column)
ca
Jkai Mr utca
ihly
yM
kcs
Mun
utca
utca
Church of the
Good Samaritan
zu
czi
tca
Town
Hall
Kossuth
tr
15
utca
Timr
17
21
czi
Rk
dery
Czin
a
ky utc
Zsilinsz
To Train
Station
(500m)
t
i u
cz
Rk
23
m utca
Citro
Bajcsy-
Szabadsg utca
Mr utca
malo
Ter
utca
10
utca
Vradi Antal
Franciscan
Church
Perczel
Pcs National
Theatre
asok
Krhz
tr
Irgalm
utca
Ferencesek
utca
Kirly
1
26
2
Jkai
tr 22 28
20
24
Fels
a
Gyrgy utc
Klim
27 Szent Istvn
tr
8
Apca utca
a
a utc
Mri
a
Liceum utc
HUNGARY
Szchenyi
tr
utca
13
utca
t M
onius
Janus Pann
11
18
Jnos t
ca
T u
tca
utca
Szen
19
Hunyadi
12 Dm
tr
Anna
Ignc ut
Szepessy
Esze
tala
Kp
utca
y
Dr Majoross
16
14
ENTERTAINMENT
Dante Caf.....................................(see 6)
Los Bongos...................................(see 22)
Mvszetek Hza...........................26 B4
utca
utca
alom
A3
B3
C5
B4
C4
C3
C3
utca
EATING
Aranygaluska Gyorstterem........... 21
Az Elefnthoz.................................22
Co-op Szupermarket......................23
Dm Vendgl...............................24
Ozis.............................................25
To Market
(50m)
Bus
Station
Alsm
C4
B4
B5
B3
Somogyi
Bla utca
To Harkny (26km)
S O U T H C E N T R A L H U N G A R Y P c s 393
Eating
complex ticket adult/student 1000/500Ft; h9am-5pm MonSat, 1-5pm Sun). The oldest part of the building
utca 11; adult/student 600/300Ft; h10am-4pm TueSun Apr-Oct), displaying the dreamy work of
Sleeping
Ibusz (%212 157; Apca utca 1; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri,
to 2pm Sat) arranges private rooms for 2540Ft
per person.
Manduls Camping (%515 655; ngyn Jnos utca 2;
camp sites per person 1200Ft, motel/hotel r 3200/5800Ft;
hMay-Oct) From the centre, take bus 33 or 34
HUNGARY
INFORMATION
ATM................................................ 1
Ibusz................................................2
Main Post Office..............................3
Tourinform.......................................4
tca
bu
lam
utc
Ga
ap
rt
enyi k
sz
Ka
Szch
utc
or
tca
tu
rog
Gspr Andrs
utca
tca
yu
ud
fal
Kis
pk
au
tca
Vrs
mar
utca ty
Cso
ngr
di
Kttemplom kz
utc
a
Erk
el
Fe
ren
cu
tca
tth
Ba
ile
To Kecskemt KK
Train Station (350m);
Kiskunsgi Nemzeti Park (30km);
Bugac (30km)
EATING
Boston Grill......................17
Gody Papa......................18
Jako Cukrszda................19
t Kecskemti Csrda...........
20
r
th k
Nagybani Piac..................21
SLEEPING
su
Kos
Caissa Panzi....................................13 C1
reghz Vendgl...........22
Fbin Pension.................................. B2
14
Hotel Udvarhz................................15 C2
ENTERTAINMENT
Tantkpz Kollgium (Teachers'
Jzsef Katona Theatre.....23
College).......................................16 C2
Rolling Rock Caf.............
24
si t
Hala
Re
ut
ca
Kla
Klvin
Kossuth
tr
tr
11
Katona
Jzsef
tr
ke
ny
za
ut
ut
ca
ca
nd
S
fi
t
Pe
cs
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca
ly
Mih
csy
Mu
krt
enyi
Szch
a
tc
ru
ha
Fe
HUNGARY
HUNGARY
To Auts
Camping
(2km)
Gy
ck
rg
zsa
D
ru
z
rf
Se utca
ut
10
12
ca
Ku
czi
Dek Ferenc
tr
utc
Szabadsg
tr
Ist
Sz
n 15
yi
utc
a
en
tM
kr
Cs
csk
Bo
Ar
18
an
utc y J
a nos
19
ik
en
20
tca
Ju
17
Szchenyi
tr
ca
23
u
ls
Train
Station
Jzsef
Katona
Park
ut
ai
tca
tca
si
iu
utca Piaristk
tere
Hornyik
Jnos 16
krt
au
y
ag
da
an
tca
rgy
Bu
ai u
21
Jk
utc
ffm
tca
Bus
Station
thl
tca
ey
Ho
Be
iu
Gy
Do
22
tca
l u
dk
utca
Gyenes
tr
m 14
ay
ut
ca
M
ria
utc
a
2
Ny
500 m
0.3 miles
13
Zi
KECSKEMT
Mih
oln
Harkny
C
Sz
a
z rvas
u
ut
ca tca
24
Kp
rt
AROUND PCS
C2
D2
C2
C2
C3
INFORMATION
Ibusz..................................1
Main Post Office...............2
OTP Bank..........................3
Piramis Internet Caf.........4
Tourinform........................5
ria
Cezar Winery (%214 490; Szent Istvn tr 12; h9am5.30pm Mon-Fri) This building is where the family
of Janos Pannonius made sparkling wine from
1859 to 1995. You can still buy Pannonia
pezsg (champagne), under new owners, in the
onsite shop and view the production facilities
through glass walls.
Zsolnay Bolt (%310 172; Jkai tr 2; h10am-4pm TueSun) You can buy a set of kooky porcelain here.
lcs
Shopping
SOUTHEASTERN
HUNGARY
0
0
free biweekly Pcsi Est lists whats on at nightclubs and the cinema.
Mvszetek Hza (%315 388; Szchenyi tr 7-8) The
Artists House is a cultural venue that hosts
classical musical performances. A schedule is
posted outside.
Los Bongos (%06 20 468 9491; Jkai tr 6; admission
390-550Ft; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat) Fridays are a Latin
fiesta, but every night sizzles. This nightclub is
on the floor above Az Elefnthoz restaurant.
Dante Caf (%210 361; Janus Pannonius utca 11;
h10am-1am) An intellectual and student
crowd gathers on the ground floor below the
Csontvry Mzeum. Theres live jazz and other
music from Thursday through Saturday.
KECSKEMT
da
Bu
S O U T H E A S T E R N H U N G A R Y K e c s k e m t 395
Entertainment
www.lonelyplanet.com
nk
Sights
Walk around the park-like squares, starting at Szabadsg tr, and admire the eclectic
building styles, including the technicolour Art
Nouveau of the 1902 Cifrapalota (Ornamental Palace;
Rkczi t 1), recently refurbished and covered in
multicoloured majolica tiles. Check out the
wonderful interiors of the Kecskemti Kptr
(Kecskemt Gallery; %480 776; Rkczi t 1; adult/child
260/130Ft; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun). Across the street,
B2
C2
B3
B2
C1
B2
C3
B1
Eating
SZEGED
Sleeping
Tourinform (p394) can help you locate the
numerous colleges that offer dormitory accommodation in July and August; one good choice
is the central Tantkpz Kollgium (Teachers College;
(%415 515; Arany Jnos utca 3; pizzas 330-550Ft; h11am11pm). There is an open-air market, Nagybani Piac
(Budai utca; h7am-1pm Mon-Sat) for self-catering.
Entertainment
S O U T H E A S T E R N H U N G A R Y K i s k u n s g N a t i o n a l Pa r k 397
worship in Hungary and is still in use. An ornate, blue- and gold-painted interior graces the
1903 Art Nouveau building. Free organ concerts here are common on summer evenings.
The nearby Zsinagga (Old Synagogue; Hajnczy utca 12;
admission free; hservice times) was built in 1843.
The Szeged Open-Air Festival is held in Dom
tr from mid-July to late August. Running
along three sides of the square is the Nemzeti
Emlkcsarnok (National Pantheon), with statues and reliefs of 80 Hungarian notables.
One block northeast, inside the Szerb Ortodox
Templom (Serbian Orthodox Church; cnr Bla & Somogyi utca;
adult/student 150/100Ft; h8am-8pm), have a look at
HUNGARY
HUNGARY
Jako Cukrszda (%505 949; Petf Sndor utca 7; cakes 110265Ft; h7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun) Cakes,
puddings and strudels tempt from behind a
long, modern glass-and-chrome case.
reghz Vendgl (%496 973; Klcsey utca 3; mains
600-1000Ft; h11am-10pm; n) Get yourself some
proper Hungarian roast: the cigany pecsenye
(literally Gypsys roast) is a mixed grill with
tender cutlets of pork and chicken, a piece
of bacon and a sausage. Join the friends and
families who gather here for Sunday lunches.
Blue-and-white kkfest (indigo-dyed) tablecloths and curtains make the place homy and
its completely nonsmoking a real rarity.
Kecskemti Csrda (%488 686; Klcsey utca 7; mains
1290-1990Ft; h11am-11pm; n) This is what a
stereotypical Hungarian country inn (csrda)
restaurant looks like with a Romani musician and all. It may seem a bit touristy, but
its where residents go to celebrate special
occasions. Theres courtyard dining.
You can get some decent and cheap quick
eats and a beer at Boston Grill (%484 444; Kpolna
utca 2; burgers 320-550Ft; h11am-10pm) or Gody Papa
www.lonelyplanet.
0
0
SZEGED
A
Jzsef
kF
Sem
so
t-Gy
me
lwe
is
rt
ug
ys
zon
ass
dog
Bol
Szen
t sor
Als-kik
Footpath
om
th
en
Sz
so
old photos show traditional methods of salami production. Theres a small gift stand in
ely
B3
A2
C3
Npliget
iu
csi
jszeged
(New Szeged)
B3
B2
B3
B3
B3
faso
an
Cs
Be
Train
Station
INFORMATION
Ibusz...................................................
1
Main Post Office................................2
Matrix Caf........................................3
OTP Bank...........................................4
Tourinform.........................................5
Sz
Tisza R
iver
Osk
ola
Zrnyi utca
13
Votive
7 Church
Dom
tr
Npkert sor
rgy
utc
tca
yu
Told
tca
Aradi
vrtank
tere
L
Hsk kapu ajos
k
(Heroes' Gate)
r
Alb
10
SLEEPING
Illes Panzi.......................................12
13
Istvn Apthy College.......................
Partfrd Camping...........................
14
Tmrhz Panzi...............................15
Tisza Hotel.......................................16
D1
B3
D2
D1
C2
ri
EATING
v t
es r
Halszcsrda....................................17
m k
Te
Numero Uno....................................18
Rgi Hdhoz.....................................19
jszeged
Zodikus...........................................20
C3
C2
C3
B3
D2
ENTERTAINMENT
John Bull Pub....................................21 B3
Sing Sing Disco.................................22 A2
Szegedi Nemzeti Sznhz..................23 C2
C3
A2
SHOPPING
Pick Hsruhz................................24 D2
Sleeping
Plenty of student accommodation is open to
travellers in July and August, including the
central Istvn Apthy College (%545 896; Etvs utca
4; r 5000Ft; n). Ask Tourinform (p397) for more
Eating
Numero Uno (%424 745; Szchenyi tr 5; mains 360-730Ft;
h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-11pm Sun; n) Good pizzas and calzones on the main square. Theres
a garden out back.
Rgi Hdhoz (%420 910; Oskola utca 4; mains 7801200Ft; hnoon-11pm Sun-Thu, 11am-midnight Fri & Sat;
n) This is the cheaper version of Halszcsrda
Entertainment
This being a college town means that there is a
vast array of bars, clubs and other nightspots,
N O R T H E A S T E R N H U N G A R Y 399
Shopping
Pick Hsruhz (%421 879; Maros utca 21; h3-6pm Mon,
7am-6pm Tue-Fri, 6am-noon Sat) You can buy a stick of
Pick salami, Szegeds brand product, as well as
other meats, right from the factory store.
NORTHEASTERN
HUNGARY
The level plains and grasslands give way to a
chain of wooded hills as you head north and
east. These are the foothills of the Carpathian
Mountains (in modern-day Ukraine and Romania), which stretch along the Hungarian
border with Slovakia. Though youll definitely
notice the rise in elevation, Hungarys highest peak of Kkes-tet is still only a proverbial
bump in the road at 1014m. The microclimates
HUNGARY
za
Tis
su
utca
ert
17
Roosevelt Belvrosi hd
19
(Inner Town
tr
Bridge)
20
ik
utc
sz
Kr
Kelemen utca
ca
Jsika ut
14
Vrkert
utc
tca
21
nyi 23
utc
a
p-k
utc
Sas
ete
Fek
London
go
nu
s u
i utc
Etv
Jka
vai kr
Moszk
fi
utc
Hu
zl
ca
tor
os
Rek
5 Palace
Som
ogy
i ut
Dugonics
tr
2
Hd
Vic
Or
Klauzl
tr
3
16
utc
a
tca
Vr
kai u
i krt
tca
Pcs
utc
rpd
tr
Pe
nc
sugr
r
do
Szchenyi
We
tr
sse
l
utc
Jn
s utc
gy
Vedre
Na
Mahart Ferry
Pier
De
gu
sey
tca
12
tca
Ma
24
9 za part
Tis
Fels
ere
Town
Hall
Klc
Klvria
csk
Bo
ca
utc
15
u
ros
Ar
an
yJ
n
Horvth M u os u
tca
18
yu
ut
utc
utc
tca 11
tca
ber
utc
ia u
czy
sm
art
ten
gol
jn
rd
fn
ila
lm
Att
Lo
nd
on
th
ho
Ste
ik
sz
Ha
utc
Mik
Market
sp
Dr
rey
Gu
HUNGARY
tca
ut
il
ca
gy
ug
Osztrovszky utca
Szent
Istvn tr
iu
ss
Me
Go
sugr
ca
ut
sz
Va
ajo
Mars Bus
tr Station
Bar
hL
Sz
a
utc
sef
Jz
oss
ut
ai
Pa
si
ai k
Lengyel utca
Kz
hu
riz
Berli
rt
utc
ad
ss
Rm
Attila
ny
Csongrdi sugrt
tca
cs
irt
au
Ko
Market
22
500 m
0.3 miles
Brsszeli krt
tca
t
ni kr
ca
a
Grdonyi Gz
t
F
M
e
utc c se t
a
kh
ar
ya
ca
tc
ru
12
11
Strea
utc
Cskny
c utca
tn
ly s
Feren
rsekkert
(Archbishop's
Garden)
yi
rn
Szvo
gy utca
Hadna
as well as covered, pools with different temperatures (40C being the hottest) and mineral
contents. The Trk Frd (Turkish Bath; Frd utca 3),
built between 1610 and 1617, is open only to
those with a doctors order.
The prize for the most deceitful name
of any attraction in the world could almost
s Utc
Lajo
utca
Vas
sry
Moc
utc
Endre
Ady
rp
HUNGARY
Mih
Eger
sics
14
Frd
utca
yrg
Petfi
Sndor tr
a
y utc
sz utc
BajcsyZsilinszky
utca
Kert
Frank Tivadar
utca
ut
utca
su
Tnc
Trinitrius
utca
ey
kcs
ag
La
ut
ss
Ko
ka G
utca
Al
tc
er
Felln a
utc
jo
Dek
l utc
Bstya utca
ef
zs
tca
Dzsa
tr
Utca
utca
Jank
o
utca vics
ut
tca
t utc
Szpasszony
vlgy
22
as
Dob Istvn ut ca
Lenyka u
19
Main Train
Station
Alm
si
15
Dob
Istvn tr
Klap
Bartk
Bla
tr
nu
ca
rv
tca
lr
tvn
esy Is
Hatvani
kapu tr
utca
ny v lgy ut
Telek
Ist
pa sszo
16
Eszterhzy
tr
ry
Ko
Sz
17
yu
Za
ly
Kir
ca
tca
SHOPPING hlen G
Bet
Borachivum............................22 A4
s
r
21
13
ut
yu
utc
utc
utc
nd
ls
mo
Mik
Zsig
Trvnyhz utca
ek
Archbishop's
Palace
Pyrker
Jnos tr
ut
bor
Da
rol
utca
l
Fog
Bus
Station
ENTERTAINMENT
Broadway Palace Club............21 C3
Hippolite Klub......................(see 18)
a
V
Egervr
Train
Station
10
on
ricz
ede
yG
ent
dsz
Min
Barkczy
1 or
d
Sn ca
Dr re ut
Im
r
ndo
y S
Brd utca
2
Kroly utca
B3
C3
C2
A4
A4
rn
n utc
18
D3
rc
ch
Istv
lg
yv
se
c
zi
Katona
Istvn tr 9
20
tca
yu
To Szilvsvrad
(28km)
Kn
ea
enyi
Tnderpart utca
C2
D3
Str
Szch
Sertekapu utca
EATING
Elefanto.................................18 C2
Hotel Senatorhz Caf.........(see 15)
Palatscintavr........................19 D2
Piac (market).........................20 C2
er
SLEEPING
Bartk Tr Panzi...................13
rsekkert College...................14
Hotel Senatorhz...................15
Tulipn Camping................... 16
Villa Vlgy............................. 17
Eg
C3
D2
C3
C2
ly
utc
C2
C2
C3
C2
C2
Mi
HUNGARY
Kisassz
Hsk utca
ai
on
ok
ca
INFORMATION
Egri Est Caf.............................1
Ibusz........................................2
OTP Bank................................3
Post Office...............................4
Tourinform..............................5
800 m
0.5 miles
ony
ut
ai
0
0
EGER
kt
EGER
N O R T H E A S T E R N H U N G A R Y E g e r 401
Ba
in several of the hill groupings are quite conducive to wine production. Eger and Tokaj
are known worldwide for their red and sweet
dessert wines, respectively. Not far north of
Eger is Szilvsvrad the Hungarian home
of the snow-white Lipizzaner horse makes a
good day trip.
www.lonelyplanet.com
Vitkovics Mihly
Sleeping
A number of colleges in town offer accommodation in July and August, including the 132bed rsekkert College (%413 661; fax 520 440; Klapka
Gyrgy utca 12; dm 1400-2000Ft). Ibusz (%311 451; www
.ibusz.hu; Szchenyi Istvn utca 9; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am1pm Sat Jun-Sep) can help organise private rooms,
Elefanto (%411 031; Katona Istvn tr 2; mains 13502500Ft, pizzas 490-900Ft; h11am-midnight; n) Dine
alfresco on the large covered terrace. This is a
casual place that sometimes has light music.
Palatscintavr (%413 986; Dob Istvn utca 9; mains
around 1200Ft) This is a pancake-lovers heaven,
and a wonderful vegetarian option. The restaurant seems to have been decorated by an
obsessive collector of old cigarette packs and
other odd and lovely things.
Hotel Senatorhz Caf (%320 466; Dob Istvn tr 11;
mains 1400-3000Ft; h11am-midnight; a) Sitting in the
main square for a meal is delightful. Even better,
stop by in the evening for a candlelit dessert.
Entertainment
The Tourinform office can tell you what concerts and musicals are on at theatres in the
area, the Lceum and at Eger Cathedral. The
free Egri Est magazine has nightlife listings.
Broadway Palace Club (Pyker Jnos tr 3; h10am6am Wed, Fri & Sat) A good atmosphere for dancing
and there are caf tables outside.
Hippolite Klub (%411 031; Katona Istvn tr 2;
h10am-4am) A mild-mannered restaurant by
day, Hippolite turns funky disco with music
starting at 9pm.
Shopping
Eating
At the base of Szpasszony vlgy utca there are
numerous small terrace bf (snack bars) that
resemble food stands, but employ a waiter to
serve you at your picnic table. There are also
numerous restaurants and cafs along pedestrian Szchenyi Istvn utca in town. The area
is known for its pistrang (trout) dishes.
Piac (market; Katona Istvn tr; h6am-6pm Mon-Fri, to
1pm Sat, to 10am Sun) Come to the covered market
to get fruit, vegetables, meat and bread.
SZILVSVRAD
%36 / pop 1850
Book . l o n e l y p l a n t . c o at
w w waccommodationeonlinem www.lonelyplanet.com
TOKAJ
%47 / pop 4650
N O R T H E A S T E R N H U N G A R Y T o k a j 403
HUNGARY
HUNGARY
Shopping
You can buy wine at any of the places mentioned for tasting or stop at the Furmint Vinotka (%353 340; Bethlen Gbor utca 12; h9am-5pm)
wineshop for a large local selection.
HUNGARY DIRECTORY
ACCOMMODATION
Budapest has the widest variety of lodging
prices, but even in provincial towns you can
find camping grounds, hostels and private
rooms in the budget range; panzik (pensions),
guesthouses and small hotels in the midrange;
and multiamenity hotels at the top end. Reviews in this chapter are ordered according
to price. Hungarys more than 400 camping
grounds are listed in Tourinforms Camping
Hungary map/brochure (www.camping.hu).
Facilities are generally open May to October
and difficult to reach without a car.
The Hungarian Youth Hostel Association (Map
pp358-9; Mellow Mood Ltd; %1-413 2065; www.youth
hostels.hu; VII Baross tr 15, 3rd fl, Budapest) keeps a list
www.lonelyplanet.com
ACTIVITIES
Hungary has more than 100 thermal baths
open to the public and many are attached to
hotels with wellbeing packages. Two thermal
baths in Budapest, one at Harkny (p394)
and the large thermal lake at Hvz (p390) are
covered in this chapter. Request the Hungarian National Tourist Office (HNTO) brochure
Water Tours in Hungary from Tourinform;
its a gold mine of information for planning
spa itineraries.
Theres also a helpful HNTO Riding in
Hungary booklet on equestrian tourism, or
you could contact the Hungarian Equestrian
Tourism Association (Map p362; MLTSZ; %1-456 0444;
www.equi.hu; IX Rday utca 8, Budapest). Pegazus Tours
(Map p362; %1-317 1644; www.pegazus.hu; V Ferenciek
tere 5, Budapest) organises horse-riding tours, and
BOOKS
Not to be modest, an excellent overall guidebook is Lonely Planets Hungary, while the
Budapest guide takes an in-depth look at
the capital. For an easy introduction to the
nations past, check out An Illustrated History of Hungary by Istvn Lzr. Read Lszl
Kontlers A History of Hungary for a more
in-depth, but easy-to-read, study.
BUSINESS HOURS
With some rare exceptions, opening hours
(nyitvatarts) are posted on the front door of
establishments; nyitva means open and zrva
is closed. Large, chain grocery stores are usually open from 7am to 6pm Monday through
Friday, and to 1pm on Saturday. Smaller ones,
especially in Budapest, may be open on Sunday or holidays as well. Most towns have a
nonstop convenience store, and many have
hypermarkets, such as Tesco, that are open
24 hours. Main post offices are open 8am to
6pm weekdays, and to noon or 1pm Saturday.
H U N G A R Y D I R E C T O R Y A c t i v i t i e s 405
COURSES
The granddaddy of all Hungarian language
schools, Debreceni Nyri Egyetem (Debrecen Summer
University; %52-489 117; www.nyariegyetem.hu; Egyetem
tr 1, PO Box 35, Debrecen 4010), in eastern Hungary,
CUSTOMS
You can bring and take out the usual personal effects, 200 cigarettes, 1L of wine or
champagne and 1L of spirits. You are not
supposed to export valuable antiques without
a special permit; this should be available from
the place of purchase. You must declare the
import/export of any amount of cash exceeding 1,000,000Ft.
DISABLED TRAVELLERS
Most of Hungary has a long way to go before it becomes accessible to the disabled,
although audible traffic signals are becoming
more common and there are Braille markings
on the higher-denominated forint notes. For
more information, contact the Hungarian Disabled Association (Map pp358-9; MEOSZ; %1-388 5529;
meosz@matavnet.hu; III San Marco utca 76, Budapest).
DISCOUNT CARDS
Those planning extensive travel in Hungary
might consider the Hungary Card (%1-266 3741;
www.hungarycard.hu), which gives 50% discounts
on seven return train fares; three 33%-off
one-way train trips; 50% off some bus and
boat travel; free entry to some museums and
attractions outside Budapest; up to 25% off
selected accommodation; and 20% off the
price of the Budapest Card (p360). Available
at Tourinform and Volnbusz offices, larger
train stations, some newsagents and petrol
stations throughout Hungary, the card costs
7935Ft and is valid for one year.
HUNGARY
HUNGARY
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h8.15am-5pm Mon-Fri)
3334; http://budapest.gayguide.net).
HOLIDAYS
Hungarys 10 public holidays:
New Years Day 1 January
1848 Revolution Day 15 March
Easter Monday March/April
International Labour Day 1 May
Whit Monday May/June
St Stephens Day 20 August
1956 Remembrance Day 23 October
All Saints Day 1 November
Christmas Day 25 December
Boxing Day 26 December
LANGUAGE
Hungarians speak Magyar (Hungarian), and
unlike the vast majority of tongues youll
hear in Europe, it is not an Indo-European
language. It is traditionally categorised as
Finno-Ugric, distantly related only to Finnish
and Estonian. Many older Hungarians, particularly in the western part of the country,
can understand German and many young
people, particularly in Budapest, speak some
English. Any travel-related business will have
at least one staff member who can speak
English.
H U N G A R Y D I R E C T O R Y M e d i a 407
MEDIA
MONEY
The unit of currency is the Hungarian forint
(Ft). Coins come in denominations of one, two,
five, 10, 20, 50 and 100Ft, and notes are denominated 200, 500, 1000, 2000, 5000, 10,000 and
20,000Ft. ATMs are quite common throughout
the country, including train stations, and they
accept most credit and cash cards. Banks usually offer exchange services as well as ATMs.
Branches can be found around the main square
in an Old Town centre, or on the main thoroughfare leading to it. Bank hours are from 8am
to 4pm Monday to Thursday and 8am to 1pm
on Friday. Visa and MasterCard are the most
widely accepted credit cards, but some smaller
lodgings still only accept cash. Some businesses
quote prices in euros; prices in this chapter conform to quotes of individual businesses.
POST
A postcard costs 50Ft within Hungary, 110Ft
within Europe, and 150Ft to the rest of the
world. A lgiposta (airmail) letter costs 190Ft
within Europe, 380Ft to the rest of the world
for up to 20g. Although you can buy stamps
at some youth hostels and hotels, go to a post
office to actually send your letter or card.
If you put it in a post box on the street, it
may languish for weeks. Otherwise, service
is pretty speedy a few days to Europe and
about a week to the US.
Mail addressed to poste restante in any
town or city will go to the main post office
(fposta). When collecting poste-restante
mail, look for the sign postn marad kldemnyek. If you hold an Amex credit card
or are carrying their travellers cheques, you
TOURIST INFORMATION
HUNGARY
There is no openly antigay sentiment in Hungary, but neither is there a large openly gay
population. The organisations and nightclubs
that do exist are generally in Budapest. For
up-to-date information on venues, events,
groups etc, contact GayGuide.Net (%06 30 932
www.lonelyplanet.com
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
Land
Hungary has excellent land transport connections with its neighbours. Most of the departures listed are from Budapest, though other
cities and towns closer to the various borders
can also be used as springboards.
WORK
Working legally in Hungary always involved a
Byzantine paper chase and it looks like it will
get harder given EU membership requirements.
The government has announced it will crack
down on illegal workers. No-one thinks theyre
going to target English teachers, but the work
situation for foreigners is in a state of flux.
TRANSPORT IN HUNGARY
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
Flights to Russia.
Most international buses arrive at the Npliget bus station (p373) in Budapest. Eurolines
(%1-219 8080; www.eurolines.com), in conjunction
with its Hungarian affiliate, Volnbusz (%1-219
8080; www.volanbusz.hu), is the international bus
company of Hungary. Theres a 10% youth
discount for those under 26. Useful inter-
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T R A N S P O R T I N H U N G A R Y G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 409
TRAIN
River
HUNGARY
HUNGARY
VISAS
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410 R R A N S N O R T A N HU NR u n n i n s uG e tetan g A r o u n d
T UNNIP GHE I D GARY g bh i d
GETTING AROUND
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Air
DRIVING LICENCE
Train
Bicycle
Hungary now counts 2500km of dedicated bicycle lanes around the country, with more on
the way. For information and advice, contact
the helpful Hungarian Bicycle Touring Association
(MKTSZ; Map p362; %1-311 2467; mktsz@enternet.hu; VI
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky t 31) in Budapest.
Boat
In summer there are regular passenger ferries
on Lake Balaton and on the Danube from
Budapest to Szentendre, Visegrd and Esztergom. Details of the schedules are given in
the relevant destination sections.
Domestic buses, run by Volnbusz (%1 219 8080;
www.volanbusz.hu) cover an extensive nationwide
network. The buses are generally relatively
new, and everybody and their grandmother
takes them, so they are safe. Bus fares average
1270Ft per 100km.
Timetables are posted at stations and stops.
Some footnotes you could come across include naponta (daily), htkznap (weekdays),
munkanapokon (on work days), munkaszneti
napok kivtelvel naponta (daily except holidays), and szabad s munkaszneti napokon
(on Saturday and holidays). A few large bus
stations have luggage rooms, or a bathroom
attendant who you pay to watch your bags,
but these generally close by 6pm.
The so-called Yellow Angels of the Hungarian Automobile Club do basic breakdown
repairs for free if you belong to an affiliated
organisation such as AAA in the USA or AA
INSURANCE
HUNGARY
HUNGARY
Bus
ROAD RULES
Local Transport
Public transport is efficient and extensive,
with city bus and, in many towns, trolleybus services. Budapest and Szeged also
have trams, and theres an extensive metro
(underground or subway) and a suburban
commuter railway in Budapest. Purchase
tickets at newsstands before travelling and
validate them once aboard. Inspectors do
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