g o u r m e t DECEMB ER2 0 0 7

gourmet travels

SouL stirring
In Israel, theres an immigrant behind almost every stove. The Yemenite Jews of Tel Aviv are parti ularly reative.
byadeenasussman

S
#$%

tir harder!

said IlanaTzanaani, hovering over me in her kitchen in Rosh H aAyin, acity near Tel Aviv thats acenter

of Israels Yemenite- e!ish immigrant comm"nity# $%e havent got the thickness !e !ant yet# I sat on alo! stool rotating a!ooden &addle inside alarge al"min"m stock&ot !edged 'et!een my knees# (y sho"lders h ad 'eg"n to ache, and I co"ld feel the hint of a'lister forming on the inside of my right & alm# Ilanaand her sister-in-la!, )a&hna*aad, lent enco"ragement as the semolin a-and-!ater mi+t"re in the &ot conge aled into asid, athick &orridge meant to accom&any aso"&,this one asim&le &ot of chicken, &otatoes, and vegeta'les !ith Yemenite s&ices,th at !as simmering on the stove# $Yo" remem'er !hat asid means, right- Ilanala"ghed# $.ement# R
In Yemenite!Jewish tradition, hi "en soup be omes a feast.
romulo yanesfood styling: ruth cousineau

In Yemen, !here the e!s,everyone, in f act,lived in &overty for tho"sands of years, flo"r e/"aled food# %hich acco"nts for a&o&"lar 0oke in Israel1 The traditional Yemenitee!ish cook'ook has only t!o &ages,the first and the last# %hile thats a'it of an exaggeration, the re&ertoire is indeed 'rief# .ooks have had to get creative to com&ensate for limited reso"rces# $%e fig"red o"t atho"sand things to do !ith flo"r to fill 'ellies, said )a&hna# In addition to asid theres kubaneh, a'aked yeast 'read that is &o&&ed into the oven on 2rid ay and taken o"t on *at"rday morning to sideste& the &rohi'ition against !orking on the *a''ath3 its served !ith grated tomato and 'aked eggs in the shell# Then theres oily, dense ' atons of rolled-"& jakhnun, another *a''ath s&ecialty,it cooks for 45 ho"rs3 crenellated lakhukh, !ith as"rface akin to that of asoft 6nglish m"ffin3 saluf, the Yemenite version of &ita3 and &anfried, flaky-cris& malawach# (any of these 'reads, along !ith their vario"s condiments and so"&s, are !ellkno!n to most Israelis, !ho have ado&ted them as comfort food# They are served at small, home-style resta"rants, latenight 0oints fre/"ented 'y yo"ng hi&sters, and l"nch co"nters across the co"ntry,!ith an es&ecially large concentration of choices in Tel Aviv# In Israel,!here &ractically every kitchen has an immigrant 'ehind the stove,reci&es connect ane!ly ado&ted homeland to &laces left 'ehind# The cooks of Rosh H aAyin are an im&ortant link to one of the most dr amatic mass immigrations to have occ"rred in the early years of the e!ish state# 7et!een 4898 and 48:;, <&eration (agic .ar&et airlifted some 9=,;;; Yemenite e!s to the >romised ?and, thr"sting them into the s&otlight# Their resc"e from &overty and isolation !as a&o!erf"l sym'ol of the 'i'lic ally ins&ired $ingathering of the e+iles that !as intended to create ahomeland for e!s from all aro"nd the !orld# The e!s of the Ara'ian >enins"lacl"ng to their faith for nearly @,;;; years, thro"gh &overty, dro"ght, and the shifting alliances of ca&ricio"s governments that !ere only intermittently tolerant of !hat the Aoran calls the $&eo&le of the 'ook# Ilana!as 'orn in the ro"gh-and-t"m'le immigrant tent cam&s of Rosh HaAyin# *he married )a&hnas 'rother in 48B4# 7est friends, theyre kno!n for their singing in Rosh HaAyins !ell-regarded Yemenite choir and, like many Yemenite !omen, for their cooking# I met them in @;;9, !hen afriend from the choir introd"ced me# As achild, I s&ent s"mmers in Israel, and after I grad"ated from college, I lived in er"salem for fo"r

gourmet travels

mara& yemenite 'hic"en Soup

serves to ! active time: "0 min Start to finish: " "#2 hr

As in a pot-au-feu, the broth of this soup is served separately from the meat and vegetables. But unlike the French dish, this Yemenite one is given a brilliant turmeric hue from the spice mixture ha$ayi%.

% whole hi "en legs (about )* lb+, drumsti "s and thighs split ) medium russet (ba"ing+ potatoes # large onion, ,uartered - medium arrots # bun h ilantro, tied into a bundle with "it hen string .* tablespoons hawayij (re ipe follows+, or to taste A''&M'A()ME(*S/ hilbeh (optional0 this page+ and zhug (optional0 page #12+
+'ut chic,en and " ta-les.oon salt in a / to !/0uart stoc,.ot and cover $ith $ater -y 2

inches1 Bring to a -oil2 then reduce heat and simmer2 uncovered2 s,imming foam2 "3 minutes1 +Mean$hile2 .eel and halve .otatoes1 +Stir .otatoes into -roth along $ith onion2 carrots2 cilantro2 24 ta-les.oons hawayi 2 and enough $ater to cover if necessary2 then simmer2 covered2 until vegeta-les are very tender -ut not falling a.art2 a-out " hour1 +*ransfer chic,en and vegeta-les to a .latter and ,ee. $arm2 covered1 Discard cilantro and season -roth $ith additional hawayi and salt1 Serve each -o$l of -roth $ith a dollo. of hilbeh and $ith chic,en2 vegeta-les2 and !hug on the side1

3awayi4 yemenite spice mi5ture

Ma,es a-out "#+ cu. active time: 3 min start to finish: 3 min

"here#s a history lesson in this spice blend$ Yemen and %ndia were stops on the ancient trade route, so this turmeric-based mix bears a resemblance to some %ndian masalas.

.6 teaspoons bla " pepper orns 7 teaspoons umin seeds .6 teaspoons ardamom seeds (from green ardamom pods+ .6 teaspoons oriander seeds . tablespoons ground turmeri
8&9I:;8<T/ an ele tri offee=spi e grinder +5inely grind .e..ercorns and seeds in grinder2 then transfer to a -o$l and stir in turmeric1 'oo"s note/ Hawayij "eeps in an airtight ontainer in a ool dry pla e # month.

hilbeh yemenite fenugree" condiment

Ma,es a-out + "#2 cu.s 6ctive time: "0 min start to 5inish: 2 days 7includes soa,ing8

After soaking for days, the fenugreek seeds release gelatinous properties that&when beaten&give the hil-eh a billowy texture as delicate as whipped cream.

. tablespoons plus . teaspoons dried fenugree" seeds (see Shopping List, page .>%+ * up pa "ed ilantro sprigs #6 ups very old water, divided * teaspoon fresh lemon 4ui e #* teaspoons zhug (page #12+
8&9I:;8<T/ a stand mi5er fitted with whis" atta hment +Soa, fenugree, seeds in $ater to cover2 re.lacing $ater every fe$ hours for the first day

and then %ust once or t$ice a day2 at least 2 days total1 +Drain fenugree, and -lend $ith cilantro and 9 cu. cold $ater in a -lender until ground to a foamy .ale/green .aste2 scra.ing do$n side if necessary2 " to 2 minutes 7add more $ater if needed81 +*ransfer .aste to mixer $ith 9 cu. cold $ater and -eat at high s.eed until mixture is dou-led and holds soft .ea,s 7li,e $hi..ed cream82 a-out "0 minutes1 +6dd 9 cu. cold $ater and -eat 3 minutes more1 Re.eat 2 times1 6t lo$ s.eed2 -eat in lemon %uice2 !hug2 and 4 teas.oon salt until %ust incor.orated1 'oo"s notes/ ?enugree" seeds an be soa"ed up to ) days.
@ Hilbeh

an be hilled in an airtight ontainer - days or froAen up to . months. Bhis" or beat a few minutes before serving.
#$$ g o u r m e t DECEM B ER 2 0 0 7

DECEMB ER2 0 0 7 g o u r m e t

years# Tho"gh I ret"rned to the C#*# in 488B, I visit often# And Ive h ad more than one late-night fried &ancake, or malawach# To eat and to cook are t!o different things, of co"rse, so my introd"ction to the t!o !omen ! as arare o&&ort"nity to enter the ins"lar yet !arm Yemenite comm"nity viathe kitchen# <ne evening, I overheard them &lanning the men" for the !edding of )a&hnas son, !ho lived do!nstairs# 2or !eeks, they !o"ld come home from !ork DIl anaat afactory, assem'ling cell&hone com&onents, )a&hnaas adomesticE to &re&are h"ndreds of &o"nds of salads, 'reads, and so"&s for the *a''ath festivities 'efore the !edding# $%e dont really like to eat anyone elses food, said )a&hna, &oking afinger into the asid. DIlanas h"s'and, Itzik, likes to reco"nt the story of ho!, not content to &"rchase local kosher food in Italy, they !ere nearly evicted from their hotel for cooking on asm"ggled electric '"rner#E Across the room, Itzik &eeled garlic "nder Ilanas !atch as she 'egan making hilbeh, the fen"greek relish considered one of the tr"e tests of aYemenite cooks talents# After along soak that removes their nat"ral 'itterness, the s!ollen, fla+colored fen"greek n"ggets are gro"nd to a&aste, s"'0ected to alashing of ice-cold !ater, and finally &"t thro"gh a&rolonged !hi&&ing in the 'o!l of an electric mi+er# After a'o"t 4: min"tes, Ilanas seeds 'egan amirac"lo"s sha&e-shift, mor&hing into an ethereal, feathery clo"d that seemed soft and solid at the same time# %hen the final &rod"ct emerged in all its &ne"matic glory, it had traveled avery long !ay from its h"m'le 'eginnings# The same co"ld 'e said of the Yemenite e!s, !ho !ent thro"gh m any changes follo!ing their arrival in Israel# 2or the first time ever, the Yemenites c ame in contact !ith nono'servant e!s# A &ro"d &eo&le acc"stomed to self-s"fficiency, they !ere initially com&letely reliant "&on the government for ho"sing# In an effort to hel& them integrate into modern Israeli society, the e!ish Agency iss"ed the Yemenites %estern-style clothing# The Yemenites h ad envisioned aland of milk and honey3 instead they fo"nd themselves in cam&s that !ere more sinks of mos/"itoes and se!age# *till, they ada&ted# In one !ay, they had anat"ral advantage over other immigrants from Ara' co"ntries, in that their rigoro"s religio"s ed"cation in Yemen had 'een cond"cted in He're!# They fo"nd !ork, '"ilt homes, and e+&anded their families# *ome moved to other & arts of the co"ntry, '"t m any stayed in Rosh HaAyin, !hich today looks more like a'"sy s"'"r'# $<"r &arents never regretted coming, said )a&hna# $ "st the o&&osite# This !as !here !e !ere meant to 'e# (any hints of the old Rosh H aAyin remain# The site of the origin al tent cam&s, not far from the commercial center of to!n, 'rings the contrasts 'et!een &ast and &resent into shar& relief# <lder !omen in ho"seco ats and headscarves rest on front &orches !atching as constr"ction cre!s ri& "& the streets# ?"gging 'ack&acks home from school, yo"ng religio"s 'oys !ith side'"rns intersect !ith teen agers in lo!-c"t 0eans and 'elly-'"tton rings# A fe! of the origin al 'o+y, "tilitarian '"ildings Dinto !hich the Yemenites moved once the c am&s had 'een dismantledE stand in the shado! of fo"r ne! &ink-mar'le a&artment '"ildings# At along kitchen ta'le, !e sat do!n, !ashed o"r hands, and 'lessed the 'read# Then !e t"rned to 'o!ls of fragrant chicken so"& laced !ith hawayij, at"rmeric'ased, c"rrylike s&ice mi+ that connects the c"linary dots 'et!een Yemen and India, 'oth of !hich !ere on the ancient s&ice ro"te# The asid acted like ad"m&ling, mello!ing the s&iciness of the 'right-yello! 'roth# A dollo& of airy, foamy hilbeh,shot thro"gh !ith zhug, the "'i/"ito"s &aste of garlic and hot &e&&er,!as agood e+am&le of molec"lar gastronomy 'ro"ght do!n to earth1 2en"greek contains car'ohydrates that, !hen agitated !ith !ater, form agelatino"s s"'stance that hel&s the hilbeh achieve great heights# Cnlike many chicken so"&s that call for cooking the 'ones for along time to e+tract the flavor, here the so"& is only on the stove for a'o"t an ho"r# D(any Yemenite cooks add ahea&ing ta'les&oon of 'o"illon &o!der#E Ilanaserved the chicken se&arately, on a&latter# %e cooled o"r &alates !ith s&ears of romaine lett"ce, sliced 'ell &e&&ers, and c"c"m'er ro"nds, and then finished !ith gl asses of steaming-hot Yemenite coffee made !ith &ale, "nroasted coffee 'eans and laced !ith ginger, cinnamon, and cloves#

*ince that night, it has 'een my c"stom to visit Ilanaand )a&hna!henever Im in Israel# ?ast s"mmer, as !ar raged in the north and Hamas forces 'ased in ?e' anon fired Aat"shyarockets across the 'order, are"nion seemed "nlikely, "ntil Ilanacalled1 $%hen are yo" coming- I kne! !e !ere going to make samneh, the clarified '"tter, &rized for its distinctive smoky flavor, that shares many characteristics !ith Indias ghee# Samneh had 'een on my mind ever since my t!o friends &rod"ced as/"at glass 0ar filled !ith o&a/"e, solid fat, heated it gently, s!irled it !ith honey, and served it on to& of cris&airy,

foamyhilbehC shot through with garli and hot pepper Cwasli"e molecular gastronomybrought down to earth.
#$1

edged flo"r-and-!ater &ancakes called zalabya# Its ty&ically made in (ay or "ne, 'efore athick veil of heat and h"midity descends on central Israel, and in time for *hav"ot D>entecostE, the only ma0or e!ish holiday d"ring !hich the cons"m&tion of dairy foods is &rescri'ed# )t !as a"g"st, and they !ere making an e+ce&tion for my 'irthday# $Theres only one &erson in charge of making samneh, they told me# *araFatan, or )oda*araDA"nt *araE as shes kno!n to everyone, is )a&hnas BB-year-old sister and the de facto matriarch of the clan# *hes also the standard'earer of Yemenite cooking in the f amily, and Id !aited along time to meet her# It !as ahot, sticky night, :B years after shed come to Israel, and )oda*aramoved fl"idly, calling o"t orders to Il anaand )a&hna, her tr"sted assistants# *he carried !ood, stones, and 'ranches to!ard the 'onfire she !as '"ilding in 'ack of her home, set on land given to her family fo"r years after they arrived# $I ho&e the neigh'ors sh"t their !indo!s, said *ara, her gold filigree earrings reflecting the moonlight# $Its going to get smoky# Tho"gh shed 'een &erforming &hysic al la'or &ractically since the time she co"ld !alk, *aras hands !ere im&ossi'ly soft !hen she to"ched my cheek !ith her & alm# *oon after arriving in 4898, she fo"nd !ork !ith a!ealthy Ashkenazi family on the other side of Tel Aviv# To this d ay, she rises at fo"r in the morning to 'egin her t!o-ho"r comm"te to !ork for the girl she hel&ed raise, !ho is no! amother herself# *aras h"s'and, !ho never !orked o"tside the home '"t r an the synagog"e they had '"ilt Dits attached to their living roomE, died three years ago# *arais rarely lonely, tho"gh3 the syn agog"e ens"res astream of &eo&le every day, and the ho"se is al!ays &acked !ith relatives# In *aras immac"late kitchen, !hile !e !aited for the fire to heat "& do!nstairs, !e molded 'ar after 'ar of mallea'le '"tter and margarine to the inner !alls of t!o circ"lar al"min"m &ots, !orking the f at like modeling clay# In the 'ackyard, alarge tray of ri&e s"mmer fr"it had materialized ne+t to 'ottles of !ater and lemonade that !ere s!eating 'eads of condensation# Grandchildren, sons-in-la!, and co"sins &o&&ed in and o"t for food and gossi&, acaco&hony of cell&hone rings &"nct"ating the night# *omeone had snaked an e+tension cord from *aras !ork shed and str"ng alight in the 'ackyard, ill"minating clementine trees and '"shes of qat Dan evergreen that men in Yemen che! for amild narcotic effectE she had &lanted decades ago# The flames had 'eg"n to die do!n# It !as nearly midnight, and !e !ere finally ready to 'egin# A red-hot stone made hissing so"nds as *ara&laced it on to& of an inverted al"min"m coffee m"g Dcalled afinjanE that !as set inside the hollo! center of e ach '"tter-lined vessel, then to&&ed !ith flo"r, !hich 'eg an to sizzle immediately# As the flo"r '"rned, gray smoke slithered o"t of the sides in thin ri''ons# %hen the stones cooled, !ed re&lace them !ith &i&ing-hot ones, and !ith fresh flo"r, again and again# %ith each ro"nd, the '"tter changed color and melted, "ntil the o&a/"e mass 'ecame a&ool of caramel-colored li/"id# At aro"nd one-thirty in the morning, !e he aded "&stairs to clarify the samneh# As the '"tter came to a'oil, the c"rds and !hey sank a!ay from the &"rified '"tterfat# *ara/"ickly fried 'atter into thick, do"ghy &ancakes# *he added 'atter layer 'y layer, fli&&ing the cake as soon as the s"rface !as cooked# *he &ressed adee& crater into the do"gh !ith her th"m', and then dri&&ed honey and samneh inside# $This is ho! !e ate it in Yemen, she said, closing her eyes 0"st for amoment# $This is e+actly ho! !e ate it#

Dhug yemenite chile garlicsauce

Ma,es a-out " cu. active time: 3 min Start to finish: 3 min

A homemade staple in the Yemenite household, this hot chile and garlic sauce becomes an ingredient itself&and may very well play a recurring role on your table.

% oA fresh 4alapeEo hiles (about % medium+, oarsely hopped #. garli loves 6 up water # teaspoon ground umin #2 bla " pepper orns 6 teaspoon ardamom seeds (from a green ardamom pod+
+'ur:e all ingredients $ith 4 teas.oon salt in a -lender2 scra.ing do$n side2 until smooth1 'oo"s note/ Zhug an be "ept, overed with a thin layer of olive oil and hilled in an

airtight ontainer, . wee"s, or froAen

in i e ube trays, then transferred to a freeAer bag and "ept . months.

la"hu"h
yemenite bread ma,es "2 7 /inch8 -reads active time: " ;RStart to finish: + hr 7includes standing and cooling8

"his is a very versatile bread, similar to 'thiopia#s in%era. %n other words, it#s like a cross between a crumpet and a cr(pe, with lots of tiny holes for absorbing soup or toppings such as butter and am&or the Yemenite favorite, smoked butter.

) ups unblea hed all!purpose flour . teaspoons salt . tablespoons sugar # teaspoon rapid!rise yeast (from a 6!oA pa "age+ )* ups warm water (#2>F##>G?+
8&9I:;8<T/ a large (.!burner+ ast!iron griddle +<his, together flour2 salt2 sugar2 and yeast in a large -o$l1 +6dd $arm $ater to flour mixture and $his, until -atter is smooth1 =et stand2 loosely covered $ith .lastic $ra.2 at room tem.erature

"4 hours1 7Batter $ill rise and -ecome foamy18 +=ightly oil griddle2 then heat2 straddled across 2 small or medium -urners on medium heat2 until hot1 +>ently stir -atter a fe$ times to reduce foam1 +Ma,e 2 -reads at a time -y ladling 4 cu. of -atter onto griddle in area over each -urner2 using ladle to gently s.read each -read to a-out inches in diameter2 then coo, until -u--les have created holes across surface of -read and " to 2 inches of -atter across center remains uncoo,ed2 a-out 2 minutes1 Reduce heat to medium/lo$ and coo, until to.s are dry and -ottoms are dar, -ro$n 7do not turn over? if -ottom dar,ens too 0uic,ly2 ad%ust heat82 @ to 3 minutes more1 +*ransfer -reads as coo,ed to ,itchen to$els 7not terry cloth8 and cool com.letely2 at least +0 minutes1 =ightly oil griddle -et$een -atches1 'oo"s note/ Lakhukh an be made # day ahead and "ept, layered between sheets of par hment paper and in . sta "s, in an airtight ontainer at room temperature.H

gourmet travels
190g o u r m e t DECEM B ER 2 0 0 7

htt.:AA$$$1adeenasussman1comA'D5sA>&BRME*C"2C0!1.df