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M A R C H 2 014
VOLUME 15 NO. 166
CULTURAL FUN FACTS, NATURE ACTIVITIES, CULINARY CREATIONS AND SIGHTS THAT TAKE OUR BREATH AWAY
www.baliandbeyond.co.id
TEAMTALK
COVER
By David Metcalf
too long ago, Indonesia was not yet a sovereign nation and the landscape was far different than what you see today. On the lifestyle side of things, weve compiled some of our favorite Bali beaches for you (complete with directions on how to get there), and present to you our review of a luxurious 24 Carat Gold Facial that were sure will have you curious to try out for yourself! We also have a couple choice dining experiences that are stimulating to the senses, and were not just talking about taste here! Turn to DINE & DELIGHTS to see the eye-catching culinary creations at FIRE Restaurant and LITTLE LOVES to learn about how at Sari Organik you can handpick from the ground the ingredients that will go into your next meal. Enjoy the month of March, readers! If youre here during the Day of Silence (Nyepi holiday) at the end of this month, make sure to do some stargazing its truly an amazing experience.
Errata: In our February 2014 edition Lippo Plaza Sunset was mistakenly written as Lippo Sunset Plaza and WakaSailing was mistakenly written as Waka Sailing. We apologize for the errors.
Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial ofce. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590
Endorsed by
A member of
BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313
CONTRIBUTORS
Bayu Rahanatha
is a lecturer at Udayana University and a Marketing Communications specialist. He also has his own business in tourism but still nds time to continue his writing hobby.
Yoppy Pieter
is a photographer and writer documenting social issues and travel. His interests led him to train in photography via the PannaFoto Institute, the Permata Photojournalist Grant and the Angkor Photo Workshop. www.yoppycture.com
David Metcalf
is an avid traveler and photographer who spends most of his time exploring the wonders of Indonesia. He is fascinated by indigenous cultures and runs photography tours in Bali and abroad. www. davidmetcalfphotography.com
Taufan Wijaya
started his career at the Jawa Pos in 2007 and later joined the Tribun from 2009-2013. He currently writes freelance and is a photojournalist contributor for London-based media, while working on his personal documentary projects. 10
Matthew Oldeld
is a freelance editorial and commercial photographer documenting social issues, food, sh and fashion. He loves to explore Indonesia both above and below the waves. www. matthewoldeld. photoshelter.com BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014
Stephanie Brookes
is a freelance writer who lives in Bali. She explores Bali and beyond and writes about culture, travel hotspots and wildlife adventures. Her published work can be found on www. travelwriter.ws
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contents 03.14
MARCH 2014
Volume 15 No. 166
THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
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CRAFT&CULTURE
BALI FUN FACTS
A compilation of intriguing facts about Balinese life and culture
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SIGHTS&SOUNDS
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LIFESTYLE&LEISURE
LIFE'S A BEACH
Our favorite beaches along the southern coast of Bali
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REST&RELAXATION
MODERN FLAIR
A peek into the newly renovated suites and villas at the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan
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DINE&DELIGHTS
LIGHT MY FIRE
A review of the W Balis tantalizing Tasting Menu at FIRE restaurant
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PONDERINGPOINT
SAVING PARADISE
How we can help keep Balis shores clean and beautiful
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16 PRIMEPROMOTION
Hot deals and promotions of the month that shouldnt be missed
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PROFILE&PORTRAIT
MADE IN BALI
Interview with the woman behind the famous Warung Made
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20 NEW&NEWS
This months select news updates from the islands tourism industry and whats new around the island
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GOLDEN GLOW
82 FEAST&FESTIVITIES
Some great deals held in conjunction with Nyepi holiday
84 COMMUNITYCALENDAR
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FOTOFOLIO
DISCOVER INDONESIA
A collection of stunning images from all over Indonesia by photographer David Metcalf
Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events
86 SEE&SEEN
Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month
88 BALIMAPS
Map of Bali showing specic tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the islands main destinations
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LITTLELOVES
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94 INFOINDEX
Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses
FIRST COLUMN PHOTO BY MATTHEW OLDFIELD, SECOND COLUMN BY DAVID METCALF THIRD COLUMN COURTESY OF INTERCONTINENTAL JIMBARAN BALI
INVITE&INDULGE
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contents 03.14
MARCH 2014
Volume 15 No. 166
THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS
78 CAPITALCORNER
EXPLORING KOTA TUA
The history behind Jakartas Old Town and the places there worth visiting
ACTION&ATTRACTION
JOURNEY INTO BALI
We hitch a ride with WakaLandCruise to explore a rarely visited side of Bali
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MYSTICAL LOCKS
A tradition in Central Java that involves cutting childrens dreadlocks
BEYONDBALI
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PRIMEPROMOTION
TOKYO DINING
Enjoy a fabulous selection of bite-sized Japanese delights every Friday night within the sleek and dimly lit interior of the InterContinental Bali Resorts KO Restaurant. Tokyo Night is a unique dining experience that allows each diner to choose eight out of the 15 delicious options such as the Tenderloin Robata, Chimichuri Wagyu Beef Roll and Salmon Tataki with Nori Chip, for Rp. 480,000++/person. Alternatively, pay Rp. 780,000++/person to include free ow sake cocktails or Rp. 930,000++/person to include free ow sake cocktails and hot or cold sake. The avors are absolutely on point here, so do consider it for your next Friday night outing! KO Restaurant at InterContinental Bali Resort Jalan Uluwatu No. 45, Jimbaran (0361) 701-888, www.bali.intercontinental.com
EARTH HOUR
Alila Ubud is joining the Think globally, act locally movement. In celebration of this years Earth Hour (taking place around the globe on March 29 at 8.30 p.m.), they are offering an exclusive tasting menu that features dishes where the ingredients are sourced no more than 15 km from the resort. Created by the resorts Chef Erwan, the special Earth Hour dinner will take place at Plantation Restaurant for Rp. 625,000++/person. Savor the beautiful fare in a candlelight-only atmosphere while being serenaded by acoustic entertainment. Alila Ubud Desa Melinggih Kelod, Gianyar (0361) 975-963 www.alilahotels.com
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PRIMEPROMOTION
THE SCENE TO BE IN
The W Retreat & Spa Bali is turning three this month, and to celebrate they are throwing a month-long bash called A NEW SCENE UNSEEN. It starts on March 1 with a party, fashion shows and a stellar DJ line-up that includes Copyright and Stefano Ritteri from the U.K. If you dont make it to the party no need to fret the celebrations continue with A Mad T-Party where afternoon tea at the W Lounge gets an Alice in Wonderland twist from renowned Australian patissier Adriano Zumbo (will be available every day from March 6). At the end of the month, Fire Restaurant will transform into The Hawker House Street Feast where Peter Lloyd, Executive Chef of W London, will cook up Southeast Asian fare with a Balinese twist for a special brunch experience on March 23 that replicates a bustling Southeast Asian bazaar. W Retreat & Spa Bali Seminyak Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak (0361) 471-8106, www.wretreatbali.com
PRE-SIESTA
Head down to La Finca in the Batu Belig area for their fantastic no-fuss lunch package deals that go for Rp. 85,000 (main course + drink), Rp. 155,000 (appetizer + main + drink) and Rp. 135,000 (appetizer + main + dessert + drink). You can choose what you like from the special lunch menu that includes dishes like their hearty Chicken Burger with chili-garlic-basil marinade, crushed avocado, homemade sun-dried tomatoes, mozzarella cheese and aioli. Round it off with some Catalanstyle Caramelized Foam Pudding or Churros with molten chocolate sauce. Tempted? We bet you are! La Finca Jalan Subak Sari No. 77, Batu Belig (0361) 210-5080 www.lancabali.com
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NEW&NEWS
GYM BUDDIES
Non-resort tness enthusiasts can now enjoy access to the Sheraton Bali Kutas ocean-facing tness center, Sheraton Fitness by Core Performance. The resort has recently launched a daily pass program that allows access to the gym for an entire day, and you can take a gym buddy for free! An introductory rate is available for only Rp. 125,000++ and is inclusive of complementary usage of the resorts innity pool, sauna and locker room as well as a 20% discount on 60-minute treatments (or longer) at Shine Spa, plus a 30% discount at the delicious Bene Italian Kitchen. This offer is valid until May 10, so dont miss out! Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort Jalan Pantai Kuta, Kuta, (0361) 846-5555 www.sheratonbalikuta.com
WINE OBSERVER
In celebration of its 20th anniversary, award-winning Hatten Wines has opened a Welcome Center and Observation Deck at their North Bali vineyards. By opening its biggest vineyard to the public, Hatten Wines wishes to show visitors the beauty of Balis North Coast as well as to provide a peek into one of the areas main industries. Open Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., these new facilities will allow visitors to learn how wine is made, and of course theres also wine tasting! www.hattenwines.com
BALI MARY
Did you know that bartender Fernand Petiot invented the original Bloody Mary at The St. Regis New York? As part of The St. Regis Bali Resorts 5th Anniversary celebration, you can try this cocktail at King Cole Bar along with four other distinctive Bloody Marys from The St. Regis properties around the globe. The ve drinks for ve years include the Original Bloody Mary from The St. Regis New York, the Bora Mary from The St. Regis Bora Bora, the Chili Padi Mary from The St. Regis Singapore, the Agave Maria Bloody Mary from The St. Regis Monach Beach and of course, the Bali Mary from The St. Regis Bali. The St. Regis Bali Resort Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua Lot S-6, Nusa Dua (0361) 847-8111, www.stregisbali.com
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NEW&NEWS
FREE SHIPPING!
One of Balis famous fashion brands, Paul Ropp, has recently launched a new website that boasts the brands newest online wardrobe. The best part is the fact that when you make a purchase online, shipping is now free via courier worldwide! So what are you waiting for? www.paulropp.com
SPICE OF INDONESIA
Savor authentic Indonesian avors in an Indonesian market atmosphere at the Bumbu Nusantara Restaurant. This new restaurant at The Bay in Nusa Dua offers a wide range of traditional Indonesian dishes featuring the freshest ingredients. Lunch options are a la carte while the dinner buffet is served night market style. The restaurant also offers afternoon tea with traditional snacks as well as cooking classes for those who are interested in learning more about Indonesian food. Its truly a great one-stop shop for Indonesian cuisine. Bumbu Nusantara Restaurant The Bay at BTDC, Nusa Dua (0361) 891-48118 www.bumbu-nusantara.com
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CRAFT&CULTURE
life per se, what with the countless ceremonies that we have, and it would take a lifetime to tell you all about what we do here in Bali. But to give you a glimpse into our lives and the meaning behind some of our beliefs and traditions, here are some interesting facts for you!
s a Balinese, Ill be the rst to tell you that life here is really amazing. I wont say that it is an easy
years old. The Balinese celebrate their Balinese birthday twice a year based on astrological calculations repeated every six months. So basically, there are three celebrations for a Balinese each year: their birthday (based on their birth date) and two Balinese birthdays (otonan). Every Balinese must undertake a tooth lling ceremony to welcome
TOP RIGHT PHOTO BY BAYU RAHANATHA ALL OTHERS BY IB DONNY CAHYADI
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adulthood. It is believed that the ceremony helps one to become stronger both physically and mentally, and it is crucial for mitigating ones evil side desire (kama), greed (lobha), anger (krodha), intoxication or being under the inuence of strong emotion (mada), confusion (moha) and jealousy (matsarya). The Balinese have their own version of feng shui called asta kosala kosali. The minimum area of land necessary to apply the asta kosala kosali architectural rules to a house is 200 square meters. In the past it was taboo for a Balinese to have a door at the
entrance gate of their house. The idea of having a bare entrance gate stemmed from the culture of welcoming everyone into their home. The Balinese are known for their advanced irrigation system called subak, which is a reection of the tri hita karana philosophy of maintaining a harmonious relationship with God, other people and nature. On June 29, 2012, the subak system was awarded World Heritage Cultural Landscape status by UNESCO. The Legong Dance of the Virgins was one of the rst international movies that captured the beauty of the island of Bali.
Top: Asta kosala kosali architectural rules applied to a Balinese home Bottom: A Balinese woman smiles at her tooth lling cermony
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Clockwise from top: The subak irrigation system, praying at Pucak Mangu Temple, ogoh-ogoh papier-mch efgies at a Nyepi celebration, a Balih-balihan dance
The lm opened in New York on October 1, 1935. In general there are three types of traditional Balinese dances. Wali dances are sacred dances
that can only be performed during a Balinese traditional ceremony because the dance is part of the ceremony itself (one example is the Sanghyang Dedari dance). Babali dances are also performed during a ceremony, but the purpose is more to entertain the people involved in the ceremony (one example is Gambuh, or traditional Balinese opera). Balihbalihan dances can be performed anytime and anywhere, because the purpose is purely to entertain (an example of this is the Joged dance). The Sanghyang Dedari dance can only be performed by young virgins. It is believed that the girls who perform it are in a trance throughout the dance. Nyepi, or Silent Day, is a Balinese New Year celebration. The day is spent praying and meditating at home with four rules to obey: no
TOP LEFT PHOTO BY ARIKO AHMAD ALL OTHERS BALI & BEYOND STOCK
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light or re (amati geni), no working (amati karya), no traveling (amati lelunganan) and no food for 24 hours (amati lelanguan). In the past, the Balinese celebrated Nyepi with a total blackout throughout the island, but nowadays due to safety reasons and other considerations, certain public places such as hospitals, police stations and hotels are allowed to use electricity and light as long as it cant be seen from outside the building. This year Nyepi falls on
March 31. It will be an amazing experience for you to try! The Balinese believe that the colors red, white and black symbolize the holy spirit of God and also represent the idea of our presence in this world. Red represents creation, black represents preservation, and white represents balance. The combination of these colors is called tri datu. There are nine temples that guard the island based on the
points of a compass. Those temples are: Batur Temple (North), Besakih Temple (Northeast), Lempuyang Temple (East), Andakasa Temple (Southeast), Gua Lawah Temple (South), Uluwatu Temple (Southwest), Batukaru Temple (West) and Pucak Mangu Temple (Northwest). Representing the center is the Pusering Jagat Temple. There are many other interesting things that you can only nd in Bali, and the way for you to learn more is by spending time exploring the island. Dont hesitate to ask the locals about their lives. Have a wonderful holiday! By Bayu Rahanatha
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LIFESTYLE&LEISURE
BEACH!
THERE IS NO SHORTAGE OF BEACHES ON THE ISLAND OF THE GODS. HERE ARE OUR TOP PICKS FROM BALIS SOUTHERN COAST THEIR NAMES MIGHT BE A BIT UNFAMILIAR COMPARED TO THEIR MORE POPULAR COUSINS, BUT YOULL FIND EACH BEACH ALLURING IN ITS OWN WAY.
By Ariko Ahmad
LIFES A
coast from Ayanas Rock Bar, this well-hidden beach would be the best spot for that uber-laidback sunset session. Going to this beach, head towards Ayana Resorts but turn right to the small and winding road just before the entrance
beautiful beach, and surfers and sun worshippers alike come here for the clear blue water. The beach is quite popular with avid surfers for its waves, and as for those who are there just to catch the sun, the gorgeous stretch of light beige sand is lined with quaint and rustic huts offering fresh food and ice-cold drinks. The sand is perfect for building elaborate sandcastles and the water is great for swimming, especially when the tide is at medium height. You can also laze about on the sun loungers that can be rented (for as long as you like) for about Rp. 25,000 each. Some tips: If you decide to venture into the water, we recommend reef shoes because of the sharp rocks that are often covered with slippery green moss. Also, if youre still a surng newbie, you might want to hold off on surng here.
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HOW TO GET THERE: Head towards the AYANA Resort & Spa and turn right onto the winding road just before the entrance to the resort. Dont worry about missing the turn its highly unlikely, as its the only turn there. SOME TIPS: You will have to make your way down a steep and rocky path to get to the beach and the rocks are pretty sharp, so make sure you go down the path slowly. Visit during low tide so you can enjoy the beach without fear of getting dragged into the sea by the waves.
to the resort. You wont be able to miss the turning, as it is the only turning there. Tegalwangi is the smallest of the four and the rockiest one as well. However it has such a stunning view that it has become a popular spot for to-be-married couple to
do their wedding photo shoot. With soft beige sand and the bluest water your eyes will ever laid on and big rocks lining the shore whilst the golden sun is setting on the horizon, this beach will cast a spell on you that will make you want to come back here really soon!
HOW TO GET THERE: Make your way up to the Bukit area via Jalan Uluwatu. Follow the road until the Nirmala Supermarket intersection then turn right onto Jalan Pantai Balangan. Follow the road until you see a surfboard-shaped sign that says Balangan Beach. Follow the winding road until you see an open space where cars are parked. Youll need to pay about Rp. 4,000/car to park there.
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Once a well-hidden
beach behind a limestone hill in the Kutuh area, Pandawa Beach is becoming increasingly popular. This is due in part to a development that has cut through the limestone, but mostly because visitors cant get enough of the long stretch of
This
gorgeous and secluded beach is actually a close neighbor of Pandawa Beach. Located right below the Gunung Payung Temple, youll need to go down exactly 292 steps to access the super soft white sand. Making your way down the steep cliff covered with greenery is totally worth the pain, as it will give you one of the most beautiful sights youll see on this paradise island (as well as one heck of a cardio workout!). Gunung Payung Beach is actually small compared to rst two beaches we mentioned, but youll probably agree that it is the best one. The secluded location is perfect for total relaxation, and unlike most beaches in Bali, this place has only one hut denitely recommend bringing your own beverages and snacks. Do remember to collect your rubbish and throw it in a bin (and not in some dark corner in the parking lot!). Some tips: The water here is really good for surng and calm enough to swim in as well, but there are no lifeguards so make sure you keep a close eye on your little ones. Also, when you are walking up the steps to exit the beach, try climbing the steps in a zig-zag fashion to reduce exhaustion.
PHOTOS BY ARIKO AHMAD
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HOW TO GET THERE: Make your way up to the Bukit area via Jalan Uluwatu. Follow the road until the Nirmala Supermarket intersection, then turn left towards Jalan Pura Batu Pageh. Go straight until you see the yellow Pandawa Beach sign. Turn left and follow the road until you see another sign. Turn right and go down the small and winding road until you see the Nusa Dua Retreat Boutique Villa Resort & Spa on your left. Keep going until you reach a big intersection, then soon you will see a huge banner that says Pandawa Beach. Have some money ready to pay the parking attendant who charges per vehicle and per person to enter the beach.
soft white sand and the calm water that can be found there. The beach still manages to retain its charm despite the growing crowd, and it will blow your mind with the grand view of its sparkling azure waters from the very moment you travel down the hill towards it.
If you want to enjoy the beach with next to no crowd, we recommend visiting during weekdays. If you are there during the low tide, youll get to see the local seaweed farmers at work harvesting. You might even consider renting a kayak to enjoy Pandawas calm water.
HOW TO GET THERE: Make your way as if youre going to Pandawa Beach except go straight at the second yellow sign instead of turning right to Pandawa. Follow the Pura Gunung Payung sign and travel up the road until the fork in the road, and then go right. Keep on that road until you nd the gate to the temple, then turn right. Youll see a small dirt road leading up to a shady area where cars and scooters are parked. Park your vehicle and at the edge of the parking area youll see steps going down to the beach.
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Pandawa Beach
DINE&DELIGHTS
LIGHT MY FIRE
FIRE AT THE W RETREAT & SPA BALI IS RENOWNED FOR ITS EXCELLENT GRILLE, BUT WE DARE YOU TO TRY THEIR TASTING MENU ITS AN ASSAULT ON THE SENSES IN THE BEST POSSIBLE WAY.
course melted before my eyes, breaking open to expose a center full of sweet surprises. Where does one start in describing the experience of dining at FIRE? Lets just start at the beginning
couple of the courses feature smoke, with fumes that for a brief moment obscured the entire plate. One
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THE FIRE TASTING MENU IS A SIX-COURSE MEAL THAT IS BOUND TO WOW YOU WITH EVERY COURSE AND WILL LEAVE YOU FEELING COMFORTABLY FULL BY THE END.
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Clockwise from left: The Wagyu 9+ Carpaccios artistic presentation, a friendly waiter with FIREs signature Cuba Libre and Liquid of Fire cocktail, the amazing presentation of their superb Steamed Foie Gras Chawan Mushi.
in dashi, soy sauce, sake and mirin, and cooked with a blowtorch. The slices were served up with chopped up papaya and decorated with delicate edible owers from the W Balis own garden. The swordsh belly tasted savory, but in a subtle way. This subtlety is characteristic of Japanese cuisine, which Chef Millar has great appreciation for due to his experience cooking in Japan. Next came a Wagyu 9+ Carpaccio with a quail egg, shimeji mushrooms, capers, green caviar, sea grape and little round balsamic pills. It was a delight to look at with
will come out to personally ask about food preferences and dietary restrictions. I visit every single table prior to the start of the meal, explained Director of Cuisine Richard Millar. This way any food allergies or intolerances can be addressed. This
also means that your meal will be a slight variation of whats listed on the tabletop menu a personalized experience, indeed.
its many colorful little details. The Steamed Foie Gras Chawan Mushi is a personal favorite of mine. The Japanese egg custard dish has chicken, shimeji and edamame beans mixed into its creamy body, and you cant help but wish for more at the end. Our chawan mushi
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Clockwise from top: Chef Richard Millar preparing the delicious main course, the tender 48 Hour Oyster Blade Steak, the Pod 64% Chocolate Melting Sphere dessert created by Chef Millar in collaboration with Pod Chocolate
was served in an intriguing shiny sphere surrounded by dry ice; the fog playfully danced about the sphere until it ran out. Next up was the 48 Hour Oyster Blade Steak that comes out covered with a glass lid. Once the lid is lifted theres a beautiful smoky fragrance that hits you, and all youll want to do is continue inhaling the smell of the smoked mango wood. Oyster blade is considered a secondary cut due to the tough nature of the tissue that runs through it, but by vacuum sealing and slow cooking it in water,
the shoulder becomes tender and the tough tissue turns into a buttery texture that practically melts in your mouth. What is this witchcraft? exclaimed my colleague, to which Chef Millar responded with a hearty chuckle. Rounding off our meal was the As our server poured hot chocolate onto the sphere, it slowly broke open to expose a center of white chocolate mousse, blood orange jelly, pandan streusel and lemon popping candy.
PHOTOS BY MATTHEW OLDFIELD
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EVENING GLOW
We recommend visiting FIRE for dinner, with some time to kill before dusk arrives. This way you can enjoy two different ambiences, because the interior feels vastly different depending on whether the room is ooded with natural light or lled with the glow of the impressive hanging light xtures. In the day it feels fresh and modern, with bright splashes of color set against a sleek backdrop. Its the perfect time to enjoy some of FIREs cocktails, like the irty Liquid
of Fire served in a martini glass or the Cuba Libre, which is what we like to call Alec Baldwin in liquid form. As sunset begins to blanket the resort and creep its way into FIREs high-ceiling dining room, the warm glow from the reball chandelier with its countless glass tendrils will illuminate the room. Designed by POOLE Associates, the interior is inspired by the Balinese Kecak Dance, which is reected in everything from the kitchens poleng pattern (black and white Balinese
checkered pattern that represents the struggle between good and evil) to the red Heliconia that represent ames. See all this for yourself while devouring the Tasting Menu, which is Rp. 700,000++/person for six courses or Rp. 1,100,000++/ person to include wine pairings. By Regina Indraswari FIRE at W Retreat & Spa Bali Seminyak Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak (0361) 473-8106 www.wretreatbali.com
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PROFILE&PORTRAIT
MADE IN BALI
WE CAUGHT UP WITH THE WOMAN BEHIND THE WELL-KNOWN MADES WARUNG TO LEARN ABOUT HOW IT HAS EVOLVED FROM ITS HUMBLE BEGINNINGS, BACK WHEN KUTA WAS JUST A SLEEPY BEACHSIDE VILLAGE.
Bali & Beyond (BB): Mades Warung has become a Balinese institution, meaning most people are familiar with it. We always see it crowded with diners can you tell us how it all began? Made Masih (MM): The rst Mades Warung was a little roadside stall in the 60s run by my grandma and my mother and assisted by the daughters. As the oldest daughter in the family, I helped out at the Balinese warung after school. From there, I slowly changed the warung to make it a more suitable eatery for foreigners. The concept of people eating together in an environment that is casual and friendly is very much part of the Indonesian warung philosophy, so we didnt change that. We just added a bit more variety to the menu. Surfers introduced jafes, an Australian grilled sandwich. Other people asked for fruit salads, and then came pancakes (which are still a best seller to this day) and
Western-style breakfasts. Japanese people asked for and showed me how to make sushi and sashimi. So I adapted the menu to make it truly international, offering everything from gado-gado to sushi. BB: What did Kuta look like back in the 60s? MM: When Mades Warung started around 1969, Kuta was a sleepy little village. The rst Mades Warung was, and still is, in the goldsmith village Banjar Pande Mas. Back then, most people in the area were making jewelry and some were shing to make a living. Then along came the tourists and the surfers. They came to Kuta for the laid-back life, where accommodations were still very basic hostels built with bamboo. BB: Who were your target customers back then? MM: The customers of Mades
Warung were mostly locals. But as travelers came to the area, they would come to have their tubruk coffee x and gado-gado. BB: Have you had to adjust the avors since foreign tourists became patrons? MM: Over the years the menu has expanded but the Indonesian dishes have never been adjusted to the foreign palate. Indonesian food is supposed to be spicy, and sambal, or chili sauce, is very important. To change things would do no justice to the avors of Indonesian food and wouldnt help to showcase
PHOTOS COURTESY OF MADES WARUNG
the enormous variety of local food. BB: What are your thoughts on Bali Belly? MM: Bali Belly is more of a problem for foreign visitors, especially in the early days of Kuta. In the late sixties and seventies, people would visit from Western countries where food
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products and the environment were much cleaner. They had a lower tolerance. It doesnt mean that the local people never got sick, just a lot less. Nowadays, refrigeration and supplies are much cleaner than in the old days. However, it is not only a Bali problem I once had dinner at a famous Japanese restaurant and felt sick as a dog after! BB: Bali has developed rapidly, especially around your two restaurant locations. Could you share your thoughts on this? MM: Bali, in particular the Kuta area, is developing in such a fast and uncoordinated way that the future looks very questionable. Trafc and oversupply of accommodations are rampant. Road systems and public
transport need to be attended to sooner rather than later. But Balinese family life, with all its ceremonies, has not changed much. Just more mobile phones and fancy sunglasses. BB: There are currently only two Mades Warung locations, one in Kuta and one in Seminyak. Do you have any plans to add more in the future? MM: We are always looking for opportunities, but more in the franchising area. Many entrepreneurs have shown interest, but until now we have not made a nal decision to expand. The door is still open. BB: Who have been some of your most memorable guests? MM: We have had many guests
from all over Indonesia and abroad. From the President of Indonesia to rock stars like Mick Jagger, to movie stars and politicians, the list is too long to mention them all. BB: What are your personal all-time favorite dishes? MM: My favorite dishes are our nasi goreng and nasi campur! BB: And lastly, which Indonesian dishes do you think have the potential to become popular internationally, the way sushi has become popular outside of Japan? MM: Satay and nasi goreng are already on some restaurant menus around the world. So I think those will be the ones to catch on.
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INVITE&INDULGE
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Clockwise from top: The reception area of Cocoon Medical Spa, a spiral staircase leading to the second oor, the Salt Room with walls made of Himalayan salt blocks
GOLDEN GLOW
EVERY PERSONS SKIN IS DIFFERENT, AND SOME TAKE TO CERTAIN TREATMENTS BETTER THAN OTHERS. BUT IN MY PERSONAL BOOK, THE 24 CARAT GOLD FACIAL AT COCOON DEFINITELY TAKES THE CAKE.
m going to come clean here for someone who delights in trying out different facial treatments that incorporate all kinds of ingredients, I can be
feel refreshed post-treatment. But if someone were to ask me, Doesnt your skin feel super elastic and look brand-new? I would probably just smile politely, all the while thinking, Yes, if you say so. Deep down, I do believe that my skin is beneting from the treatments. But on the surface I usually dont
rather skeptical when it comes to their supposed benets. Dont get me wrong, theres
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notice too much of difference. That is, until my most recent spa-capade at the Cocoon Medical Spa. With the very rst step of my treatment, I could already feel a noticeable difference in my skin. And when I met up with a couple friends later that night bare faced and a bit sweaty I couldnt believe my ears when one exclaimed, What did you do to your face? while the other commented matter-offactly, Your skin is glowing.
the word Medical in it. Call me crazy, but I had images of Lindsay Lohans misshapen face oating in my head. I simply did not know what to expect. I soon found that there was little to no reason for worry. After politely passing on their recommendation of Colon Hydrotherapy (Its one of our most popular treatments!) and doing a brief consultation with Dr. Jeanny Kusumawati, I settled on a variation of the 24 Carat Gold Facial.
head aluminum instrument is used to deeply exfoliate, all the while improving the texture of the skin. It feels a bit like a strong vacuum being pulled across various parts of your face; I found this neither pleasant nor uncomfortable (but those with sensitive skin might want to double check during consultation). It was after this rst step that my face felt surprisingly baby-soft. comes the LED Red Light Therapy, but I went with the No-Needle Mesotherapy. A special tool was heated up to push nutrients into the skin (in my case, Vitamin C), and then it was cooled down and used again to seal the nutrients in.
SERUM PHOTO BY MUTIA ADISOMA ALL OTHER PHOTOS BY ARIKO AHMAD
NOTHING TO FEAR
Earlier that day I had walked into the Cocoon Medical Spa feeling anxious (read: terried), mostly due to that fact that the name contained
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GO FOR GOLD
It is said that Cleopatra slept in a pure gold mask every night, believing it was the secret to her awless skin. According to Cocoon, gold is revered for its beautifying and healing properties, and its ability to conduct energy makes it a perfect tool for strengthening skin and slowing down the effects of aging. If you had told me this prior to my actual experience I might have been skeptical, but seeing the results made me a believer. My friend only reinforced this belief when she saw me again two days later and said, Really your face looks so good.
Top: The chic second oor lounge area of Cocoon Medical Spa Bottom: Cocoons own Liquid Gold face serum featuring 24 carat gold leaf
How much was that treatment? Cocoons luxurious 24 Carat Gold Facial goes for Rp. 1,000,000++, but each individual step of the facial can also be purchased a la carte. It is advised not to be in direct sunlight for 24 hours after the treatment, so make sure to factor this into your plans. Visit Cocoons website to learn
Rounding out the treatment, a 24 Carat Gold Collagen Serum was applied to my skin, followed by a 24 Carat Gold Moisturizer. This is what I found the most fascinating seeing the container of clear serum with its many sparkling ecks of gold catching the light. It was hard to believe that those gold ecks were
going to disappear into my skin. I also took home a Gold Collagen Mask, which I applied to my face later that night for about 30 minutes. Peeling the mask off my face, my skin looked dewy and radiant so much so that I put the mask back on in hopes of reaping optimum benets from the magical mask.
about their package deals and their various face, body and wellness treatments. By Mutia Adisoma Cocoon Medical Spa Jalan Sunset Road, Legian (0361) 847-5997 www.cocoonmedicalspa.com
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SIGHTS&SOUNDS
Our cork board of photos, quotes and fun facts that we picked up while exploring in January and February...
Heres a snap of Pura Jagad Nata in Denpasar. We were mesmerized by the intricate stone carvings on the gates of this very important temple!
We stumbled upon a dance recital taking place in the outdoor bale near Pura Petitenget. Among the dances that the students were tested on were the Tenun dance and the Legong Keraton dance.
The itty bitty Buzz Cafe sits unassumingly on one side of Jalan Raya Sem inyak and serves this lovely lime, lemon and mint ice-blended drink. Its our new favorite post-sh opping refreshment!
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This great little shop in Ubud sells hand made jams and salts. How cute is that? Its called Kou, and the salted caramel jam BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014 is absolutely to-die-for.
PURA JAGAD NATA, BUZZ CAFE & BALI SAFARI PHOTOS BY MUTIA ADISOMA, MANTRA PHOTO BY AGUNG PARAMESWARA ALL OTHERS BY ARIKO AHMAD
Here is the Bali Safari & Marine Parks new General Manager, Wi lliam Santoso. He looks like hes settling quite well into his new role, righ t?
Check out all the happy fam ilies! So many had little ones animals in tow during our visit in Fe bruary.
Some rather sp ooky advice Pa k Putu, our guid watch your mo e at WakaLandC uth in Bali. Be ruise: Always careful of what people who wi you say becaus ll hear it... if yo e it wont be jus u know what I t mean.
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Wise words to live by, spotted among the shrubs in a corner of Seminyaks Mantra Kitchen & Bar.
REST&RELAXATION
MODERN FLAIR
the jungle and nestled itself comfortably into Caf, we could not believe our eyes when we found ourselves face-toface with such stylish dcor. We had no idea this had been hiding in the lush forests of Sayan, just minutes away from Ubud! the foliage. Interestingly enough, the two disc-shaped oors of the main building do not look too out of place. Protruding from within the greenery and facing a valley, the structure has been expertly designed to look at one with nature. We have been itching to share this property with you ever since we learned of the room renovations that
PHOTOS COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS RESORT BALI AT SAYAN
THE RECENT ROOM RENOVATIONS AT THE FOUR SEASONS RESORT AT SAYAN ARE THE PERFECT MIX OF MASCULINITY AND FEMININITY, AND THEIR SUITES AND VILLAS WILL MAKE YOU WISH YOU COULD COME HOME TO THEM EVERY DAY.
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rom afar, it looks a bit like the mothership has landed in the middle of
took place last year. Having asked to take a casual peek at the rooms after a lunch meeting at the Riverside
SPIN DOCTORS
Behind the renovation is Tokyos renowned Design Studio SPIN, the same folks behind the sleek and sophisticated Sundara Restaurant
Clockwise from left: Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan seen from above, the bedroom of the Duplex Suite has a balcony view, the living area of the Duplex Suite
of the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay. Making your way through the rooms youll notice the interior strikes a perfect balance between male and female aesthetic. The handsome teak furniture boasts mother of pearl details and in
the bathroom the color palette is dominated by emerald green, crimson and burnt sienna. But the showstopper is denitely the intricately carved wooden headboard above the bed. When we rst saw the bed we desperately wished we could transport it to our own home and wake up in it every single day for the rest of our lives. Once those gushing feelings had subsided a bit, we took a closer look and found that the carvings actually represent the silhouettes of trees and birds in the forest, and the entire headboard is set against a traditional ikat fabric background. On top of that, there is a light that can be switched on so that a warm glow emanates from within the carved out sections of the headboard. For their rst hotel room makeover, it is obvious that SPIN have knocked this project out of the park. You can enjoy their designs in all 18 suites and 42 villas at the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan.
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THE VILLAS FEATURE THE SAME AMENITIES AS THE SUITES AND MORE. THE BEAUTIFUL BEDS COME WITH DREAMY SHEER-WHITE CANOPIES AND THE BEDROOM IS MUCH MORE SPACIOUS.
River, and instead of pedestrians you see coconut trees. The suites are reminiscent of a perfect loft apartment. Upon entering, youll nd the living area decorated with dark teak furnishings
and wooden statues tucked into nooks in the wall. Descend the staircase and youll see the bed with that beautiful headboard tucked into a cozy space facing wood and glass sliding doors that reach
as high as the top oor. Through those sliding doors is a balcony with your own personal daybed, and next to the bedroom is the spacious bathroom with double vanities and an ample sized tub to soak in.
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an outdoor shower option and a sizable garden area. Our one-bedroom villa had such a gorgeous view of the valley that we could not bear to leave it for breakfast. Dining poolside, we opted for the Eastern options on the menu the Japanese breakfast and Korean breakfast and we were as happy as a clam with our choices. The gigantic breakfast of exotic avors is the perfect way to start a full day of activities in the Ubud area. That is, after taking a morning dip in the plunge pool of course. By Mutia Adisoma Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan Banjar Kutuh, Sayan, Ubud (0361) 977-577 www.fourseasons.com/sayan
Clockwise from top left: Their grandest accommodation is the Royal Villa, tasty welcome snacks of mini gado-gado and smoked salmon, the beautiful wood carved headboard, a patio overlooking Ayung River, Ayung Terrace Restaurant
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PONDERINGPOINT
SAVING PARADISE
HUMANS CANT HELP BUT LEAVE A FOOTPRINT, OR IN SOME CASES, A LITTER PRINT. WHAT CAN WE DO TO HELP PRESERVE BALIS BEAUTY?
ali is often in the international spotlight, enjoying media attention when it wins awards and is voted the
Balis beaches each day. Beachfront hotels also regularly put in muscle, enlisting the help of their staff and volunteers to keep their stretch of coastline as beautiful as possible. However, litter can still be found on Balis shores, and it is especially apparent during the rainy season.
best tourist destination in the world. This kind of attention is great for enticing more and more tourists to visit the wonderful and unique island. But the rapid development on the island has been followed by a fair share of environmental concerns. Those who truly care about Bali and its waters are not turning a blind eye large companies such as Coca-Cola Amatil Indonesia, Quiksilver and Garuda Indonesia have responded by staging events to draw worldwide attention to the issues such as the annual Bali Big Eco Weekend, which the Governor of Bali and other tourism dignitaries have endorsed and attended. Those same three companies have even bought tractors, beach cleaning machines, trash cans and trucks, and hire almost 100 staff to clean up
THE SOLUTION?
Like a Band-Aid on a broken leg, these beach cleaning efforts can be thought of as doing very little to effect a long term cure. In fact, some even view the beach cleaning as counterproductive, because it can give the impression that the rubbish is just an anomaly. It is absolutely necessary to have a beginning-to-end trash disposal system put in place. On top of that, childhood and adult education on proper trash disposal should be been educated to understand that there is a difference between banana leaves and plastic bags, so they just use whats readily available. Plastic certainly meets that requirement, and they treat it like a banana leaf as well.
ILLUSTRATION BY INDRASWARI IQBAL
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NO PLASTIC BAGS
Aside from the large companies, private individuals and business enterprises in Bali have also taken on educational and trash recycling initiatives. One such effort is the Bye Bye Plastic Bags project, initiated by two girls named Melati and Isabel. Together with their families and friends, Bye Bye Plastic Bags is working to gain 1 million signatures for their petition to ban plastic bags in Bali. Governor Pastika has promised this group of children that if their petition is a success, he will ban the manufacture, distribution and use of plastic bags in Bali. To sign the petition to ban plastic bags in Bali go to www.facebook.com/ byebyeplasticbags.
TAKING ACTION
At a local Balinese level, a bright and shining example of hope exists in Perenanan, just north of Echo Beach. In 2011, Mr. Putu Winangun and 30 others from Desa Perenanan established their own NGO called Pereranan Gumi Lestari. Their primary focus is to preserve and reclaim the beauty of their village by cleaning up their rivers, villages and beach areas and installing trash cans around their villages. This is followed up with formal and informal education programs, recycling programs, river restocking (sh and shrimp) and above all enforcement of their environmental rules by arresting and reprimanding
those who violate them. Just think of what would happen if every village in Bali formed such a group? From the beaches to the midlands to the mountains Are you thinking what Im thinking? For starters, no more unsightly debris on Balis beaches during the wet season. To nd out more about Pereranan Gumi Lestari go to www.pererenangumilestari.com. By Ben Silver
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FOTOFOLIO
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DISCOVER INDONESIA
David Metcalf is an avid traveler and photographer who spends most of his time exploring the wonders of the Indonesian archipelago. He has a particular fascination with indigenous cultures, and he and his wife (travel writer Stephanie Brookes) have a book that will be released this month called Indonesias Hidden Heritage Cultural Journeys of Discovery, which will be available for purchase at Periplus and Gramedia outlets and via Davids website www.davidmetcalfphotography.com. David runs photography tours in Bali (and abroad) as well as half and full day workshops in the Ubud area, supporting many of the communities that he travels to through education and health initiatives. Learn more about his upcoming Beautiful Bali Photo Tour from April 13 - 19 and Borneo Photography Tour from May 26 - June 3 by emailing davidmetcalf3@mac.com.
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Above: Orangutans from Central Kalimantan Right: The green hills of Sumba island
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LITTLELOVES
GO INTO THE GARDEN, PICK YOUR INGREDIENTS, AND THEN SIT BACK AND ENJOY THE VIEW WHILE YOUR MEAL IS PREPARED FOR YOU AT SARI ORGANIK.
bent down over the masses of green leaves protruding from the raised garden beds and tried to decipher which one was iceberg lettuce and which
garden and set about picking not only strange shaped salad leaves but also young red shoots growing from trees along the pathway. These are all edible and delicious, he explained as he plucked the leaves and added them to the basket. With the help of the lovely Balinese full-time gardener and keeper of this expansive garden, my little basket was soon full with a variety of greens. I was excited to sit down back at my table and have it all presented to me with my main dish of homemade pasta and pesto.
one was romaine, the only two lettuce varieties I am familiar with. I had chosen the Sari Salad from the menu, which said Pick your own salad in our garden. I stood musing over the strange green curly leaves that resembled elephant ears for another moment, and then gave up. I came back to the kitchen with one tiny tomato and said, This is all I could recognize in your garden, can someone help me pick my salad? After great squeals of laughter a friendly young waiter guided me back to the organic
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The fresh fare at Sari Organik. Dont forget to try one of their delicious juices!
My friend from Sydney was also with me that day and it was the rst time she had ever seen rice growing in elds. It turned out to be the highlight of her 3-day trip to Ubud.
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the rice eld views fanning to my left and to my right, I decided on my main course of Pesto Pasta. One of the most popular choices on the menu is the Vegetarian Kebab with tofu, tempeh, zucchini, mushrooms and peppers. However, if vegetarian is not your thing, there are lovely tuna and chicken dishes on the menu as well. I would put this restaurant at the top of your Ubud list of things to do because you not only get to enjoy beautiful and fresh energy-boosting organic food, but from near the center of town you get a taste of rural Balinese life and a sample of
a slower pace of life as you wander through the rice elds to reach your destination. By Stephanie Brookes Sari Organik/ Warung Bodag Maliah Subak Sok Wayah, Ubud (0361) 972-087 www.sari-organik.com
Bookings are advisable. The restaurant is very popular, and somehow, everyone hears about it even though it is way off the beaten tourist path. If you plan a late lunch (after 1:30 p.m.), the walk is a bit cooler. Little artist shops can be found along the way, so plan to take your time along the 800 meter stretch.
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ACTION&ATTRACTION
As he led us to an impressive 1995 Land Rover Defender parked just meters away, a feeling washed over me that we were about to embark on a great journey. So armed with just a camera, a pair of ip-ops, a friend, the big 4x4 and our driver and guide, we began the rst leg of our journey.
he phone rang and it was our guide and driver, Pak Putu, telling us that he had just arrived to pick us up.
were on a busy road lled with trucks and buses heading towards the Gilimanuk Port, and the next minute we were in the middle of a serene Balinese village. It was truly magical. As Pak Putu maneuvered the big Land Rover effortlessly, we entered a shady and narrow road. At the end we came to our rst stop Tegal Jadi Village. Located in this village is an amazing little quarry where time seems to have stood still for centuries. For generations, the villagers have been collecting stone known as paras out of the riverbeds using basic traditional methods. These stones are quite special, as they are used to build temples and shrines all across the island. To get to the quarry you must go down makeshift dirt steps. What is amazing about this is the fact that the villagers can do this while balancing stones on their heads. From the quarry we headed further west towards Malgunung Village to visit a traditional Balinese family house. As soon as we arrived, Pak Made, the owner of the house, took us on a tour of his family compound that had been lived in for generations. This house was a great
VILLAGE VISITS
Heading towards Tabanan, we crisscrossed through the busy main road of Jalan Raya Gilimanuk and then made a left turn down a small village road where the scene abruptly changed. One minute we
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Clockwise from top: A friendly lady waving at us from her ower farm, one of Tegal Jadis villagers cutting paras stone from the riverbed, Ibu Nyoman of Tegal Jadi Village balancing 15 kgs worth of paras stones on her head, the door of a WakaLandCruise Land Rover, delicious traditional Balinese snacks, Pak Made showing us his family compound, the sturdy WakaLandCruise Land Rovers
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Clockwise from left on this page: The view of Jatiluwih in Tabanan, the beautiful Bamboo Forest Restaurant, cute table settings at Bamboo Forest
JATILUWIH IS A SEA OF LUSH RICE TERRACES RECOGNIZED BY UNESCO IN PRESERVATION OF THE TRADITIONAL BALINESE IRRIGATION SYSTEM CALLED SUBAK.
example of the Balinese architectural concept of families living together in a complex of buildings with everything they need (vegetables, fruits, livestock, etc.) right in their backyard. After the short tour we were served coffee and tea with a side of triangular shaped Balinese snacks made of corn our and brown sugar. They were so good that I just had to take some for the road.
UNESCO in preservation of the traditional Balinese irrigation system called subak. Before going on this trip I had done some research and reviewed photos of Jatiluwih, but nothing compares to seeing this jawdropping view with your own eyes. Continuing our journey to our lunch spot, we went off-roading into a forest with giant bamboo and fern trees. At the end of it was WakaLandCruises Bamboo Forest Restaurant. Having a delicious buffet lunch at this quaint open-air restaurant in the middle of a forest is a really unique experience. The atmosphere is so serene and quiet that the only things breaking the silence are the sounds of chirping birds and the mufed clanking of cutlery. The restaurant is perfect for a romantic getaway or a private holiday trip for the family.
PHOTO OF IBU NYOMAN COURTESY OF WAKALANDCRUISE PREVIOUS PAGE PHOTOS BY ARIKO AHMAD
SEA OF GREEN
As I munched on my snack we embarked on the third leg of the journey, and I saw one of the most breathtaking views I have ever seen in Bali. Jatiluwih is a sea of lush rice terraces recognized by
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TRAVEL TESTIMONIES
Some other travelers went on the same journey as us with WakaLandCruise, so we asked them what they thought about the tour.
Clockwise from top: The main area of Batukaru Temple, villagers performing a ritual, ladies carrying offerings after a ritual ceremony
The spot for the restaurant is amazing! It really is more than just a spot! - Christine from The Netherlands
Its such a great tour! Its a good way to see a lot of amazing things in Bali, all
to be a ceremony in progress, where a nearby community collected holy water for a blessing ritual back at their village. Luckily the ceremony was small enough that we were able to witness the ritual in close proximity. It was really beautiful and felt so different compared to other ceremonies Ive seen. Somehow this one felt more special. It was either that, or I was delirious from breathing in the super fresh air all day long (instead of the fumes from driving my scooter around Kuta)!
I must say that this tour was one of the best ones Ive ever had the pleasure of experiencing. Id be willing to go again in a heartbeat, and it seems Im not the only one, as I was told there have been many return visitors on this special journey into the heart of Bali. By Miko Harada WakaLandCruise Jalan Imam Bonjol 467, Denpasar (0361) 484-085 www.wakahotelsandresorts.com
in one go. - Guido & Justine, rst time visitors to Bali from Switzerland
I think its very lovely, especially for a Bali rst-timer like me - Birgit from Denmark
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BEYONDBALI
MYSTICAL LOCKS
LEGEND HAS IT THAT THE CHILDREN WHO GROW DREADLOCKS IN WONOSOBO ARE DESCENDANTS OF FOUNDER KI KOLODETE, AND EXTRA CARE MUST BE TAKEN BEFORE THEY CAN GET THEIR HAIR CUT.
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Above: A group takes dreadlock clippings to the middle of a lake to release into the water Right: A small child gets her dreadlocks cut at a Ruwatan ceremony
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Javanese word wanasaba, meaning a gathering place in a forest. According to the legend, there was once a powerful gure named Ki Kolodete, one of the three founders of Wonosobo who vowed to not shower or cut his hair until he succeeded in bringing prosperity to the town. After his passing, a
his ritual happens once a year in the highlands of Wonosobo, a township in Central Java with its name derived from the
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phenomenon began to occur where some of the children would grow dreadlocks with no explanation. Sometimes a few of the children experience high fevers before their hair strands start to tangle and fuse together. These children are considered special and even believed to possess supernatural powers. For this reason, a specic ritual known as ruwatan must take place in order to cut and return these dreadlocks to the universe.
Before their dreadlocks can be cut, the children put in their requests. It is believed that these requests are being sent from mystic world, so no matter how strange or odd, the requests must be fullled. They as for such things as small bills, umbrellas, a chicken, goats or something as ordinary as traditional snacks. The elders are convinced that if any of the requests are denied there will be a catastrophe, because the ritual will be imperfect or incomplete.
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PEOPLE CAN BE SEEN LINING UP ALONG THE SIDE OF THE STREET FROM AN INTERSECTION IN MARON VILLAGE ALL THE WAY TO THE RITUAL SITE AT TELAGA MENJER.
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and young. They are waiting for the cultural parade, which the participants have been preparing for since morning. The parade is both celebratory and entertaining, with participants dressed up as giants, evil creatures and Javanese dancers. The parade travels for about one kilometer until the convoy reaches Telaga Menjer, which is 1,300 meters above sea level. Here the participants dance and put on quite a show. At this particular ruwatan
ceremony, eight children had their dreadlocks cut Diana Adinda, Sri Mawarsari, Amanda, Er Setyowati, Ismiatul Khasanah, Dewi Jeniawati, Rasya and Viona Ratna Dwita. Viona cried and ailed around in her seat on the podium until her mother sat Viona on her lap to calm her down enough for her dreadlocks to be cut. The cuttings are placed in shiny brass tempayan bowls. Only the dreadlocks are cut off, while the normal untangled hair is left to continue to grow. Once the cuttings
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Clockwise from right: Wonosobo residents, a parade participant and his prop, a child in the Ruwatan ceremonys request for a goat
are blessed, a shaman, or dukun, leads the procession to the lake and a group takes the bowls to the center of the lake by raft to release the hair cuttings into the water. Once the hair cuttings have sunk into Telaga Menjer, it means they have been returned to the universe and the ritual is complete. It is believed that all 900,000 people
who are part of Wonosobo will then be granted good luck and good health.
INDONESIA
EAST JAVA
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from.
BALI&BEYOND MARCH 2014 79
he afternoon I visited Kota Tua, I decided to rent a sepeda onthel a kind of vintage bicycle. Making my way from the Beos train station, my shadow moved
across the pavement as I navigated through the North Jakarta trafc. It did not take long for me to arrive at one of the oldest ports in Indonesia, Sunda Kelapa. It is the exact spot from which the city of Jakarta grew
CENTURIES OF TRADITION
Along the canal, dozens of Phinisi sailing ships were lined up with their masts reaching towards the sky. Most of the ship workers hovered somewhere in the shadows beneath the ships, others struggling to haul
knows what would happen to our lungs, chuckled Adi, another one of the workers.
bags of cement mix onto trucks. Behind their long sleeves and facemasks, salty sweat dripped from their pores. These products will be sent to Borneo and Sumatra, said Jono, one of the workers who has been in the shipping industry for 15 years. If the weather is bad, sometimes the ship must return to Jakarta. His face was almost completely covered in cement dust. I was curious about this world, so I made my way into the belly of one of the Phinisi ships. I walked carefully atop a wooden plank, doing my best to keep my balance. Through the door at the end of the ship I entered, and inside I could feel the air heavy with a feeling I can only describe as a mix of tradition and glory. Cement dust particles oated throughout the room, visible in the rays of sunlight that entered through crevices in the roof. The stuffy air began to smother me. Thats why we wear masks here. If not, who
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Clockwise from right: In the belly of a Phinisi with sacks of cement mix, a line of Phinisi ships at Sunda Kelapa Port, a classic onthel bicycle, a street artist at the Fatahillah Museum, tourists biking through the Museum square
These days, youll nd people leisurely biking around that same square. Most view Kota Tua as a fun place for recreation, a place with a historical facility that can provide a bit of education. However, there is still great room for improvement to make the area more comfortable and attractive for visitors. There have been talks of a restoration project to help preserve these structures that hold so much historical signicance. Even so, the area is available for you to visit. Pedal an onthel bike around the Kota Tua area, like those who used to do so tempoe doeloe, or in the good old days. Have a glimpse of what Jakarta used to be, and be reminded of how far it has come and how much it has been through in order to become the bustling capital city that it is today. By Yoppy Pieter
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FEAST&FESTIVITIES
SILENCE IS GOLDEN
Bali Niksoma Boutique Beach Resort is offering an exclusive package for the upcoming Nyepi celebration. Priced at Rp. 2,999,000 nett for a Deluxe Room, Rp. 3,299,000 nett for a Junior Suite and Rp. 3,599,000 nett for a full Suite, youll be able to enjoy this chic beachside resort from March 30 to April 1 with access to an array of complimentary services such as a set lunch and buffet dinner on March 31 as well as free use of their health and tness facility and their beachfront split-level swimming pools. www.baliniksoma.com
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COMMUNITYCALENDAR
WEEKEND BAZAAR
Come to the Palloma Hotel in Kuta on April 5 and 6 for an adorable little bazaar called Lapak on the Weekend. This fun event features the creations of Balis local crowd, from Indonesian snacks to fashion to home wares, and all for sale! This is a routine event held for two days every other month. Theres a possibility of a new location in the future, but make sure you dont miss the next one at Palloma. lapakontheweekend@gmail.com
FLOWER POWER
The Bali Floral Club (BFC) is holding their Bali Floral Show 2014 from March 18 to 19 at the Best Western Premier Sunset Road. The show will consist of a huge ower exhibition as well as seminars and workshops on topics such as The Unique Blend of Culture and The Latest Trend. Indonesian oral designer Ineke Turangan will also attend the workshop as one of the guest speakers. Come and join this rare and unique event! Bali Floral Club (0361) 790-0049
GARDEN ART
BIASA+ store in Seminyak is presenting its rst exhibition in 2014 named Garden of Delight, featuring the works of Yogyakarta-based artist Arya Pandjalu. The exhibition has transformed level 2 of this newly launched store into an indoor garden with ample seating, creating a unique environment for visitors. The artwork explores the contradictory nature of the environment and urban ecology, along with how it affects our social, cultural and economic survival today. BIASA+ Jalan Raya Seminyak No. 34, Seminyak (0361) 847-5766 www.biasagroup.com
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SEE&SEEN
V.V.I.P GUEST
Spotted recently at the Patra Jasa Bali Resort & Villas was President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono, along with the First Lady and several members of the Indonesian Cabinet. Here on ofcial business from January 19 to 20, they had chosen this beautiful beachside resort for their brief stay. www.thepatrabali.com
SPREADING LOVE
The Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa celebrated Valentines Day on February 14 with a visit to Yayasan Pembinaan Anak Cacat (YPAC), a non-prot learning facility for mentally and physically challenged children in Bali. Spreading love, a team from the resort came bearing boxes of foodstuffs and cooking supplies and were seen gardening with the children. www.nusaduahotel.com
GIVE LIFE
ALL COURTESY PHOTOS
Swiss-Belhotel International held a blood donation event dubbed ONE LOVE on February 12 at the Swiss-Belhotel Rainforest on Sunset Road. The event was part of the companys global social activities and was attended by the management and staff of all Swiss-Belhotel properties on the island. www.swiss-belhotel.com
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BY THE GLASS
On February 7 the Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort held a Social Hour at The Lounge to introduce their new program offering premium wines by the glass from 30 partners in Asia Pacic. Guests were able to sample a selection of the Sheratons wine list while nibbling on artisanal cheeses and fresh-baked breads. www.sheratonbalikuta.com
RISING ABOVE
On February 14, a total of 50 of Surfer Girls staff were spotted doing a ash mob dance in support of the One Billion Rising international campaign. The campaign aims to end injustices and violence against women while promoting gender equality. www.surfer-girl.com
BIKINI FRIDAY
February 21 saw the grand launching of SOS Supper Clubs Friday Bikini Martini party at Anantara Seminyak. Beautiful bikini-clad guests gathered for this glittering event where martinis owed endlessly for those who adhered to the dress code! www.anantara.com
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Menjangan Island
Singaraja
Gilimanuk
Pemuteran
Lovina
BULELENG
M. Batur Kintamani Bedugul
JEMBRANA
M. Batukaru Medewi
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Negara
Besakih Bangli
M. Agung
KARANGASEM
Tenganan
Amed Amlapura
TABANAN
Ubud
KLUNGKUNG
Semarapura
Candi Dasa
BADUNG
Taman Ayun
GIANYAR
DENPASAR
Sanur
Nusa Lembongan Island Nusa Ceningan Island Nusa Penida Island Tanjung Benoa Nusa Dua
Kerobokan Seminyak Legian NGURAH RAI Kuta Tuban INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Jimbaran Uluwatu
89
Jl. Batubelig
V
Jl. Hang Tuah
CD
M
Le Mayeur
M
Fish Market
Jl. Mertanadi
C
Sanur Paradise Plaza Inna Grand Bali Beach
Jemme Cafe
H H
C
Sector
Ramada Benoa
W Hotel
Jl. Mertasari
NUSA DUA
N W E
Tao Bali SAKALA Medical Center
Jl. Su
nset
Road
Jl. Laksamana
ta n
Jl. Petitenget
Art Market
Jl.
H
n Da au
The Seminyak
Be
ra
H
Jl. kunti II
Jl. Tukad Bilok Jl. Danau Buyan
S
CD
Jl. Segara Ayu
R R +
Jl. kunti I
uk
Jl. Plawa
Jl. Suns
Gado Gado
Jl. Tegeh Agung
Sindu Beach
R
Jl. Sindu
H H
Grand Mirage
ix
le S
et Road
oub
Jl. Arjuna
Jl. Nakula
Jl. D
H
CD
French Consulate
H H
ra
KUTA
H
The Village
ian
Amaris Legian
N
Clinic
H
+
Jl. Pratama
Conrad Bali
ra
Jl. Leg
adm
a Uta
Jl. P
dew
aha
Jl. S
i Kuta
rata
ma
Panta
aya
Telaga Naga
+
gu ra
Medical Center
Jl. P
Jl. R
Kuta
H
Jl. Maj
Mercure
Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai
apahit
Jl. R
aya
rta
C
Bali Galleria
Jl. Danau Poso
C
S
sar
Jl. Srikandi
Me
H
CD
h Ra i
Czech Rep. Consulate
Kuta Square
Jl.
gura
ss N
aP la
za
an
Ka
rtik
Jl.
Kuta Center
l. By pa
LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market H S M Museum Kartika Plaza Shopping S S R Restaurant Discovery Shopping Mall V Villa CD Corps Diplomatique
90
H
Dental Clinic
Jl. Pa
dma
W E
SANUR
N
C
Legian Beach
H
S
Istana Kuta Galleria
S W E S
H
Batu Jimbar
Melia Benoa
Jl. Melasti
Art Market
H H
Jl. p By
H H
as sN
H R
Rosso Vivo
Bali Hyatt
H
hR ai
The Laguna
S
Tragia
Jl. Kurusetra 3
H
Jl. W
Melia Bali
M
iray uda
Village Market
M
Clinic
Jl. P anta i Pem
Museum Pasika
+
inge
Bali Collection
The Bay
Kuta beach
Jl.
H
Pa nta
H H H H
Mercure Sanur Beach Puri Santrian
en gia t
Gabah
H
Ayodya Resort bali
H
Amanusa
H
The St. Regis Bali Resort The Bale
a Se Nusa Du Jl. latan
LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant CD Corps Diplomatique
H H
LEGEND: + Medical C Cafe H Hotel M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant CD Corps Diplomatique
Grand Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
91
yan
CANGGU
To Kerobokan
Pantai Bra
Canggu River
BUMBAK
Bumbak
wa
Nela
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ Canggu Beach
TIBUBENENG
Subaksari
Canggu Surng
Pantai Brawa
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
Perancak Temple
SEMER KUWUM
Raya Semer
Peng uben gan
Brawa Beach
Ke
UMALAS
Batub
Batubelig
elig
Batubelig
Jl.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
lec
un
Ra
Gunung Tangkuban Perah
ya
Ke
ro
BRAWA
bo
Dukun Indah
ka
To Denpasar
Ray aS em er
Batubelig Beach
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
R
Mertanadi
BATUBELIG
KEROBOKAN
Villa Lumbung
KEROBOKAN CANGGU
N W S E
LEGEND: + Medical T Tourism Spot H Hotel/Resort M Market M Museum S Shopping R Restaurant
W Bali
H
Petite nget
T
Petitenget Temple Petiteng
et
Mertasa
ri
Bali Clinic
Jl. R
Laksam ana
aya
Bida
dari
Basang
Ka yu
The Legian
Obero
Su
Ay a
kasa
ns
et
Ro
Drupadi
ad
SEMINYAK
KEDEWATAN
To Payangan
Jl. Campuhan
M
Jl. Sandat
To Kintamani
UBUD
N W S E
Neka Museum
Riv
Ay
Jl. Sand
Painting Museum
Jl. K
CAMPUHAN
Jl. R
M M
Antonio Blanco Museum
aya
ajen
Four Season
Jl. Andong
er
H
g
Jl. Su
weta
UBUD
an
TAMAN
at
Ganding
ANDONG
H
Kayu Manis
Ubu
Ubud Palace
Market
M
man Jl. Hano wah
PENESTANAN
Cok Putra S
Jl. Jemba
Jl. Jero
Medical
+
Medical
nkey
un
Jl. Sugr
iwa
Rai
SAYAN
Forest
Jl. Mo
ede
Lamak
Manik
ok G
Jl. IB
Jl. C
Monkey Forest
T
PELIATAN BEDULU
M
Afchaeological Museum
KATIK LANTANG
Elephant Cave
92
To Denpasar
NYUH KUNING
PANGOSEKAN
To Denpasar
To Kemenuh
TENGKULAK
To Gianyar
93
INFOINDEX
AIRLINES
AIRPORT OPERATOR Tel: (0361) 751-011 CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS
Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888
RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15
FRANCE
Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: (0361) 286-406 E-mail: consul@dps.centrin.net.id
TIMOR LESTE
Jl. Prof. Yamin No. 4, Renon, Denpsar Tel: (0361) 235-093, Fax: (0361) 235-092 E-mail: cgtl@dpsbali.com
MUSEUMS
AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART
(ARMA) Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm
GERMANY
Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Batujimbar, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535, Fax: (0361) 288-826 Email: germanconsul@bali-ntb.com
UNITED STATES
Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 233-605, Fax: (0361) 222-426 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id
CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA
Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: (0361) 768-369
ABIAN KAPAS
Jl. Nusa Indah, East Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-176
ROYAL BRUNEI
Tel: (0361) 757-292
HUNGARY
Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701, Fax: (0361) 287-456 Email: huconbali@telkom.net
HEALTH&MEDICAL
Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For Bali Belly, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace uids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.
ANTONIO BLANCO
Ubud , Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551 open daily 8 am-5 pm
SINGAPORE AIRLINES
Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 936-8388, Fax: (0361) 936-8383
INDIA
Jl. Raya Puputan 163, Renon - Denpasar Tel. (0361) 259-502/259-503 Fax.(0361) 259-505
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
Pejeng, Tel: (0361) 942-352 Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays
ITALY
Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005, Fax: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org
MERPATI
Jl. Gatot Subroto Tengah, 26 Denpasar Tel: (0361) 411-364 Airport Tel: (0361) 9351-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741
JAPAN
Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628, Fax: (0361) 265-066 E-mail: denpasar@dp.mofa.go.jp
MANDALA AIRLINES
Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar, Reservation Call center 08041234567
MALAYSIA
Alam Kulkul Boutique Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta Tel: (0361) 752-520, Fax: (0361) 766-373 E-mail: info@consulmalaysia-bali.com
MUSEUM LE MAYEUR
Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday.
THAI INTERNATIONAL
Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141
MEXICO
PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 223-266, Fax: (0361) 244-568 E-mail: consulmex@astinatravel.com
QATAR AIRWAYS
Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788 Wisti Sabha Building, 2nd Floor, Ngurah Rai International Aiprort, Tel: (0361) 760-274 Fax: (0361) 760-275
MUSEUM NEKA Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm. MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN
NETHERLANDS
KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-502, Fax: (0361) 752-777 E-mail: dutchconsulate@kcb-tours.com
CLINIC&HOSPITAL
INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC
24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: (0361) 710-515
DEPARTURE
Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 40,000. No Fiscal tax-exempt to pay for Indonesian and expatriates holding KITAS for International departure. Ngurah Rai Intl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011
MUSEUM RUDANA
Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud
ROYAL DANISH
Sunset Road No. 89 Ruko Sunset Indah I Kav. 3 Tel: (0361) 821-6979, Fax: (0361) 7666-38 E-mail: danishconsbali@gmail.com
MUSEUM SUBAK Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan
TOURIST INFO.
INTEGRATED TOURISM
INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361; Tel: (0361) 766-188
CONSULATES
AUSTRALIA, CANADA, NEW ZEALAND Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: (0361) 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.bali.indonesia.embassy.gov.au BRITAIN
Jl. Tirta Nadi 20, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 270-601, Fax: (0361) 287-804 E-mail: bcbali@dps.centrin.net.id
SLOVAKIA
Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426-171, Fax: (0361) 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com
BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76 BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387 SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION
OFFICE Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41
BRAZIL
Jl. Raya Legian No. 186, Kuta Tel: (0361) 757-775, Fax: (0361) 751-005 Email: brazilconsul@bali.net
CHILE
Jl. Jl. Pengembak Gg 1 No. 3, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 756-781, Fax: (0361) 756-783 E-mail: chilehonconsulate@bali-villa.com CZECH REPUBLIC Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur.
SILOAM HOSPITALS
24-hour emergency 779-911 Jl. Sunset Road No. 818, Kuta, Badung, Bali Tel: +62-361-779-900 E-mail: info.bali@siloamhospitals.com
94
95
96