Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
SPRING 2014
IN THIS ISSUE:
5 Beauty Industry Gets Greener Chemistry 6 The Science Behind Compulsive Pulling 9 Industry Exclusive: scar Urzola, New President, New Image Labs 10 Bald for a Cause
IN EVERY ISSUE:
12 New Members 30 AHLC Academy 31 Member Spotlight: Keith Zimmerman 34 Product Spotlight
Subscription Information:
Subscriptions to The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are mailed FREE to members of the AHLC within the continental United States. International members are provided digital copies free. Please contact us for additional shipping rates if you are an AHLC member outside the US and wish to receive a printed edition. Non-member subscription price: $60 annually within the continental United States, $85 International. To become a member, renew your membership, or subscribe to The Link as a non-member, please contact the AHLC 855.445.9509 or log on to www.AHLC.org.
Managing Editor: Janine Thornhill Design and Layout: e-zign Design Group, www.e-zign.com Creative Director: Terrell Thornhill
Jeff Pulford, President, Insure Beauty, Salinas, CA Diana Ford, Education Coordinator, Jon Renau, Vista, CA John Rutter, Owner, JR Hair Design, Uniontown, PA Tanisha Foster, Director, Vertical Markets, SalonBooker, New York, NY Elvira Amankwa, CMP, Marketing Manager, New Image Labs, West Palm Beach, FL Jon Fortgang, President, New Hair Technology, New York, NY Leonard Stillman, Director of Professional Services, Lexington International, Boca Raton, FL Myra Irizarry, Director of Government Affairs, Professional Beauty Association, Scottsdale, AZ Mitch Comstock, Owner, Legendary Computers, Franklin, TN Dr. Renae Reinardy, Licensed Psychologist, Lakeside Center for Behavioral Change, Fargo, ND Paul Albee, Creative Director, A.T.Services, Inc., Syracuse, NY
Contributors:
Membership Information:
855.445.9509
...just dont everyone call all-at-once.
The opinions expressed in The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the American Hair Loss Council. The advertisements in The Link do not necessarily reflect the beliefs, opinions or attitudes of the AHLC and does not imply product or service endorsement. The American Hair Loss Council All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Published by e-zign Design Group. www.e-zign.com
alifornias Safer Consumer Products (SCP) Regulations took effect in October, 2013, and are set to be phased in over the next several years to coordinate with various requirements. The new regulations, originally signed into law in 2008 as part of what is commonly known as the California Green Chemistry Initiative, will undoubtedly affect not only manufacturers in California, but any beauty professional distributing, selling and importing products into that state.
prescribed steps, the consequences not only impact them but can potentially impact the distributor that is providing the product to the retailer. If the retailer or salon has products on the shelves that has not been reformulated with the safer alternative chemical then they cannot sell that product. From manufacturer to retailer, this legislation impacts everyone involved with the product. As the nations leading beauty industry trade organization and a member of the Safe Cosmetics Alliance, the Professional Beauty Association supports legislation and regulations based on sound science and policies that enhance consumer safety and confidence. For more resources and information about Californias Safer Consumer Products Regulations, as well as other legislation with potential to affect the beauty industry, visit www.probeauty.org/advocacy.
Crafted by the Department of Toxic Substance Control (DTSC) following extensive public input, the SCP program aims to reduce toxic chemicals in consumer products, create business opportunities in the emerging safer consumer products economy, and reduce the burden on consumers and small businesses concerned about what is being used in the products they buy and sell. To accomplish these goals, the SCP program takes a preventive approach to keeping dangerous chemicals out of everyday products to promote consumer confidence. To be successful, the program relies on reports submitted by responsible entities, such as manufacturers of consumer goods, to inform on and increase the use of safer chemicals in products, homes, schools and workplaces. For industry stakeholders, of which the beauty industry has been identified by the DTSC, the regulatory program provides a more predictable process for ensuring product safety, as well as offers a competitive advantage for innovators who see an opportunity in the growing market for toxic-free and toxic-reduced products.
What It Means
Green Chemistry legislation is unique in regards to its potential consequences. Manufacturers, whether doing business within California or from another state, that make products that will be sold in the state of California are responsible for knowing if their product contains a chemical on the priority list of chemicals. If they have a product with a priority chemical it is their responsibility to find a safe alternative to that chemical and reformulate that specific product. If the manufacturer does not follow the
PBA has partnered with the California Department of Toxic Substance Control to produce a free webinar covering the basics of the Safer Consumer Products Regulations. Safer Consumer Products Program | Are You Ready? featuring Andre Algazi of the Department of Toxic Substance Control covers the Candidate Chemicals list and how it was developed; requirements that will apply to a manufacturer or responsible entity whose product is designated as a Priority Product with a Chemical of Concern; the Alternatives Analysis process; how regulatory responses will be identified and implemented; and, proactive steps a manufacturer can take as the regulations are implemented.
Watch the complimentary webinar on-demand at www.probeauty.org/eduonline. The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014 5
by: Dr. Renae Reinardy, Licensed Psychologist, Lakeside Center for Behavioral Change It impacts people of all ages, ethnicities, genders and socio-economic backgrounds. The behavior involves pulling out hair on the scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, pubic area, legs or arms. In men this can also include pulling hair from the beard or chest. The severity of the disorder occurs on a continuum. Some people only pull from one small and specific area, while others will pull wherever they have hair. As hair replacement specialists, it is also important to know that some clients may pull from their hair system, replacement or areas around the system. This can be a challenging experience for the client, and also for you. Pulling can be focused (aware) or unfocused (without awareness). Most people experience both, and will describe going into a trich-trance where long periods of time go by, sometimes hours which are spent pulling. Typically people pull one hair at a time and will often play with the hair or hair root after pulling. While there are many social and emotional consequences of hair pulling and hair loss, trich can become life threatening when people ingest the hair. This can cause a trichobezoar (hair ball), which often requires medical attention to be removed. Some people will also ingest string or other hair-like items. Because most people with trichotillomania are very high functioning, they become secretive about these behaviors. People pull their hair for many different reasons. Trichotillomania is a neuro-biological disorder that is often influenced by emotional stress, hormones, environmental factors, diet and extra sensory needs. Trich often begins in puberty, but can start as early as infancy or develop in late adulthood. It is a female dominant condition in adulthood, but is thought to be about equal in boys and girls. The condition often has a waxing and waning course that tends to be chronic without treatment. For many years trichotillomania was not well understood and was considered to be a behavior of self-mutilation. Researchers and treatment providers have learned much more about hair pulling in recent years and TTM is now considered to be a Body Focused Repetitive Behavior (BFRB). Compulsive hair pulling is grouped with other behaviors such as skin picking, nail biting and teeth grinding. Trichotillomania is treatable. In order to effectively treat TTM, it is important to understand the function behind the hair pulling in order to replace it with other strategies. A cognitive behavioral therapist works with people to develop a comprehensive treatment plan to get trich under control. This includes looking at the triggers just prior to pulling, the details of how people, and what they do post pulling. I encourage my clients to not think of trichotillomania as the enemy, but rather to view pulling urges similar to a growling stomach. Their body is trying to tell them something. It is common for pulling urges to follow some type of emotional trigger (i.e. stress, boredom, frustration). It can also be the result of not enough sensory input. Many children and adults spend hours each day sitting at a desk and then come home to sit and watch television, play video games or surf the Internet. Many people require more sensory input than they are getting. Trichotillomania is efficient in getting maximum sensory input by using the parts of the body that are most sensitive (see
cross all cultures the appearance of hair holds much associated meaning. In many societies long hair is associated with wealth, power, health, fertility, sexuality and youthfulness. Hair has had special significance in social revolution, counterculture and religious devotion. Just mentioning the names of Elvis Presley, The Beatles, Bob Marley, Marilyn Monroe, Jennifer Aniston, Fabio Lanzoni, Halle Berry and Justin Bieber demonstrate the powerful influence of hair. Many believe that the appearance of hair is just as important to us as body shape in how we evaluate ourselves and the self we present to the world. When people are satisfied with their hair, they are more likely to be satisfied with their appearance. However when people experience hair loss, it can rock the views they hold of themselves and how they believe other people perceive them. Hair loss in any of its forms is not easy. People struggling with trichotillomania (TTM) experience a unique form of hair loss where they pull the hair out themselves. This behavior can create much shame, anger toward self and feelings of being out of control. It can be devastating to watch ones hair get thinner and thinner, knowing that they are pulling it out but are unable to stop. Many people with TTM feel very alone and believe that others would view them to be crazy or weird if they shared their secret. These concepts cause people to turn inward and try to do the best they can on their own. For others, they experience depression, suicidal thoughts and addiction as ways to cope with the pain associated with their hair loss. Compulsive hair pulling is a medical condition that affects one in 50 people. That is around 3-9 million Americans. 6 The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014
Homunculus Diagram
A homunculus is a sensory map of your body, so it looks like an oddly proportioned human. It represents each part of the body, but in proportion to its number of sensory neural connections and not its actual size. The layout of the sensory neural connections throughout your body determines the level of sensitivity each area of your body has, so the hands on a sensory homunculus are its largest body parts, exaggerated to an almost comical degree, while the arms are quite skinny. The homunculus, then, gives a vivid picture of where our sensory system gets the most bang for its buck. As people in the hair replacement industry, you likely encounter trichotillomania more than you may know. It is not uncommon for clients with
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Industry exclusive
Meet scar Urzola, newly-appointed President of New Image Labs
n January 2014, scar Urzola was appointed President of New Image Labs Corporation. For those who have known scar for any length of time, this comes as no surprise. Many of his friends in the industry call him hair fanatic due to his vibrant personality and his professional background. Those who know him agree that scar stands for a rare combination of many qualities: He is a great people person, has some of the deepest product knowledge you can find in the global hair replacement industry and is absolutely honest in his dealings. Born to Colombian immigrants, his family settled in Manchester, CT. Eventually his family moved to Jupiter, FL. It was there that scar was introduced to New Image at the age
of 24. He actually dropped off a friend for an interview for a warehouse/ distribution position and was hired instead of his friend by the late Randy Martin. Many of scars skills are selftaught and he has always relied on his resourcefulness and sound judgment. In the 25 years scar has been with New Image, he has moved up the ranks with hard work and perseverance. He has worked in nearly every department within the company from dispatching to sales. This has afforded him intricate knowledge of internal processes in the hair replacement business. scar has traveled extensively to all parts of the world and cemented his reputation as a global hair replacement educator and design
expert. Whether in the factories in China, the major industry players in South America and the Middle East or the hair replacement icons in Europe scar is no stranger to any of them. For scar, the American dream has come true, but not without hard work, tears and sweat. Those who know scar will agree that he is ready at any time to roll up his sleeves and get down into the trenches to get the job done. He knows what it is to overcome obstacles and understands the challenges of running a business in todays tough environment. scar is uniquely positioned to lead New Image. He has been a mover and shaker and will use his strengths to move New Image into the future. The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014 9
having my head and eliminating its unruly curls is something I have considered since I was a child. I have grown to embrace, even love, my curly hair and wear it in its natural wash-and-go state, but my early school photos were the butt of many classmates jokes. I did not grown up in a beauty parlor. I was a tomboy while growing up, riding horses and playing soccer. I was 16 when I went to my first salon appointment, a gift from my mum as an attempt to calm my curly frizz. So when I entered the beauty industry professionally at the age of 17, my family and friends were surprised. The last 10 years I have been a licensed cosmetologist and have spent a lot of time feeding the vanity of others. I have had clients who would literally sacrifice grocery money in order to pay for their roots to be touched up. I quickly realized how much hair and outer appearances means to so many of us.
About four years ago, I stepped away from working behind the chair and now proudly work with one of the largest and most successful alternative hair manufacturers in the world. As Education Coordinator, I provide studio owners with instruction and training on alternative hair. I feel so lucky to have the opportunity to help our clients help their clients feel better about themselves. I meet many people every day who are dealing with hair loss in some way and it is disheartening to see them struggle. I often leave a mastectomy boutique or hair replacement center with mixed emotions: Great feelings about what I do, tinged with sadness over the fact that these people are wounded by their hair loss. Many of our clients are undergoing medical treatments and have experienced a disease or life trauma that causes their hair loss. Looking and feeling like themselves 10 The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014
again is a powerful tonic for their overall health and well-being. Research has shown that patients who believe their outsides look good tend also to feel better inside. In May of 2013, I got to know Regina Villemure, the founder of Children With Hair Loss (CWHL). This non-profit organization supplies human hair wigs and care kits to children experiencing medical hair loss. They receive one set annually at no cost. During the 2013 American Hair Loss Council conference, I had the opportunity to meet with Regina and her team and learn about their selfless acts of good will. They truly are angels to many children and their families. I can remember being teased in school for my fuzzy, crazy hair, I couldnt imagine being
the only one in the room without any hair. I left the conference knowing that I wanted to help in some way. I spent many months thinking about how I could raise funds for CWHL and create awareness about what they do. I finally decided to offer my hair as a donation and to keep my head shaved until I reach a fundraising goal of $5,000. I initially felt really bold about my decision but as the days went by I started to worry that shaving my hair off would be a disaster! I started to worry about what my family, my boyfriend, friends and the public would think. I worryied my boyfriend wouldnt find me attractive anymore. Maybe people will think Im ill? I kept thinking about how my hair had become my identity, as it is for so many others, and what I would do without it?
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To become a member or renew contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to AHLC.org.
12 The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014
ow do we get traffic to our websites and ultimately more clients through our doors? Social Media and Blogs are an excellent way to create awareness about your company. The benefits of social marketing are numerous. Hair replacement studio owners often rely on intuition to make business decisions. While intuition is important, it probably wont provide you with all the facts you need to achieve social media marketing results. This information helps in defining social marketing goals and to develop a plan to achieve them
Marketing is the process of creating, delivering, communicating and exchanging offers that have value for our potential clients. Content marketing is less about promotion and more about helping potential clients make informed buying decisions. Getting new clients is never easy. Service is invisible; its intangible and immeasurable. How then do we sell something that is invisible? It all begins with content marketing, i.e., Social media, and its everywhere. Whether its Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Pintrest, Flickr, Google+ or any other form of social media, we simply cant escape it. These are all great ways for us to get our business message out into the world without costing a fortune. Our marketing efforts should first create interest, then generate leads and finally turn leads into clients.
Be Consistent
Stay consistent with your social media message, but not repetitive. 14 The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014
Someone liking a post doesnt always spell success. Remember, we want to target our posts to create motivated buyers. Even if people like our posts and never become a client it doesnt mean our efforts are in vain. Our posts will show followers and friends how we do business, which is a great branding tool. Social media can show your likers and followers that you care about the quality and results of your services. Using social media a great way for your company to hit many different demographics at once while
Buying Decisions
Over 90% of all buying decisions begin with an online search. Having a good website is one thing, but an approachable social media campaign is icing on the cake. Marketing should solve problems, answer questions, and fulfill needs. With the power of social media, you can stir emotion and inspiration as well as educate. Encourage your readers and visitors to engage and share your information and your marketing efforts will reach an even broader audience. Like most people running a small business, its difficult enough to find time in a day to get your work done let alone launch and manage a social media campaign. This information can help you jump start or boost your marketing efforts, increase your exposure and get more people in your studios.
Here are some tools that can help you save precious time with your marketing. Hoot suite: This tool allows the user to
tool, but a great way to track mentions of your name, company name and keeps track of uses of your name in cyberspace. www.google.com/alerts Vocus: This software coordinates email, landing pages, news releases and other activities so you can deliver results with one integrated solution. It also helps to get your prospects information in order to start targeting those prospects. It can also help you discover what people like about your page. Vocus even has a consulting service to help you understand what your results are and what they mean to your company. www.vocus.com The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014 15
Tanisha Foster brings more than a decade of experience in the beauty industry to the SalonBooker team, including an extensive background in salon operations, luxury brand management and customer experience. Prior to joining SalonBooker, Foster spent four years at P&G-Frederic Fekkai training salon managers to run seven of the highest performing salons in the country. She also held executive positions at leading companies including LOreal and Limited Brands.
m not referring to the one attached to your bank account. Instead, I invite you to take a few minutes to evaluate how youre using your attention, time, and money (ATM) when it comes to running your business. Effectively managing your
ATM can increase the overall success and profitability of your salon. This entails checking in on where youre focusing your efforts and implementing the right strategies to always keep your ATM in balance.
THE LAWS OF
ATTENTION
Time is money.
TIME
THE LAWS OF
Every appointment spot on your calendar is equivalent to a dollar amount, so dont settle for slow times with open chairs. Its worth your attention to make sure youre not letting any time go wasted. Its better to be proactive than reactive. Take the time to plan ahead and strategize how to maximize not just the time on your appointment book, but also the time you and your staff spend keeping the salon up and running. Never forget that time wasted is money wasted. Using your staffs time effectively has a direct impact on the money in your bank at the end of the week.
THE LAWS OF
MONEY
Windows XP is dead
Five reasons to upgrade if youre still using it
by: Mitch Comstock, Owner, Legendary Computers, Franklin, TN modern websites. This is only going to get worse after EOS occurs. Afterwards, you may be able to get on the Internet, but you wont be able to do much when you get there. If you use other browsers you will find yourself in similar situations quickly. Google Chrome announced that they would end support for Windows XP in April of 2015. support with a newer operating system, you might not want to change. Unless you are a larger sized company and willing to pay for special circumstance updates, you will never see another update for Windows XP. But if you dont connect it to the Internet, (since you cant barely, with the browser choices available) and you had software that is too expensive to replace that operates mission critical functions. You might stay with XP. If this is the case I think you would benefit greatly from looking at upgrade options now, before its too late.
indows XP was first released in October 2001 and it went on to become the most popular desktop Operating System that weve ever seen. As recently as August 2012 it was still on more than half of the computers in mainstream use. Even today it is on over 30% of the systems in use. So how can I lead with the line XP is dead? Very simple, it is on its very last legs and come April 8th, 2014 it will breathe its very last. That is the date that Microsoft has set as its final end of support (EOS) date. That means there will be no more security patches or updates after this date. This means that 30% of the computers in use today will be upgraded, replaced or become a hackers playground within the next six months. Ive included a list of the top reasons to replace your Windows XP computer very soon.
Hardware Issues
Most systems that are running Windows XP have fairly old hardware and performance wise there would be a significant boost from getting better newer processors, more RAM and a newer hard drive as well as the software issues mentioned above.
If you are unsure of what to do to make sure your transition from Windows XP to your next computer is smooth. Contact a local system provider and start your conversation about upgrading today. You wont be sorry that you didnt wait until after the last minute to do so.
Mitch Comstock is the father of four boys, husband of one wife and an entrepreneur. He is a technologically gifted communicator, meaning he knows stuff and can explain it to normal people. In 2005 he founded Legendary Computers a computer sales and service company in Franklin, Tennessee.
FORT LAUDERDALE
UPGRADE YOUR KNOW HOW
APRIL 26-28
UPGRADE YOUR STAFF UPGRADE YOUR SKILLS UPGRADE YOUR BOTTOM LINE
D I S P L AY I N G
E D U C AT I N G
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few weeks ago, the owner of a highly respected and successful hair replacement studio called me. She was concerned about her website. Although it had been created for her only about three or four years ago, and it looked fine on her computers in the office and at home, a woman who had come in for an initial consultation the previous day had told her that she considered not coming in at all. The issue for this potential new client was that she got lost on her way to her appointment and tried to pull up the studios website on her smart phone to get directions. When the website finally came up, she said, it was so tiny that it was virtually unreadable. Desperate to make her appointment (she was starting chemotherapy in a couple of weeks), she instead called directory assistance, called the studio and got directions from the receptionist. (As it turned out, she was only about seven blocks away).
If she hadnt already been on her way to see me, I doubt she would have come in at all, the owner told me. Sales leads are hard enough to come by these days, as it is. How many more potential clients am I loosing? Compounding the issue, this studio has some serious competition in town, including one of those club places about 20 minutes away.
The Takeaway
With the vast number of Smartphones and Tablets in use today, across all age groups, offering your potential and existing customers a great mobile experience is clearly critical to building a positive impression of you and your business, and cultivating strong, lasting customer relationships. If you havent looked at your website on your iPhone recently, you might want to do so. Dont wait to play catch up with your competitors. By creating an effective mobile strategy and offering your
potential clients a great mobile experience, you can leverage your website to engage with your mobile visitors, meet their needs, and help your business to stand out as an innovator within your market area. And when a potential client gets lost on their way to their initial consultation, theyll feel a lot more comfortable and at ease, knowing youre only a finger tap away to help them.
* Google, Sterling Research and SmithGeiger, What Users Want Most From Mobile Sites Today, July 2012. Pew Internet Mobile Research Project, September 2013.
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Hacker insurance
by: Jeff Pulford, President, InsureBeauty.com
he recent Target store cyber thefts woke up the world to the huge problem of digital liability. Well, at least it woke up Jean Luc, the owner of a midsized salon specializing in womens hair replacement. It seemed everyone had a horror story about credit and debit card theft, embezzlement, identity loss, credit card centers and even suits by customers and state attorneys.
He had recently purchased a second salon that brought his client base to almost 1,400. He was in the process of updating the servers and determining how to keep client data confidential. Jean Luc knew profitable expansion was dependent on better business practices and one of his first decisions was to place the salons insurance with a new, energetic and experienced insurance broker, Barb Black. Jean Luc called Barb, mentioned he thought the world was going crazy, and that he needed straight talk and clear information about all this computer theft. He wondered if he was vulnerable like the big companies. Barb answered that Jean Lucs new insurance program included a broad form of Cyber Liability and Data Security Coverage. The limits were $1,000,000, covered both locations and had a low premium of $922. Barb understood how concerned Jean Luc was and thought an actual claim story, shortened dramatically, would help explain many of the cyber problems and solutions of large and small business. Barb said Let me give you the short details of an actual claim regarding Data and Security Breach coverage, the expenses incurred and clarify how the insurance company paid the losses. An upscale salon, much like yours
Barb gave Jean Luc a listing of all the Cyber Liability Coverages he had in his policy which were needed to protect a business today.
1. Data Breech Liability and Expense 2. Security Breach and Expense 3. Defense of Regulatory Proceeding - Due to violations of federal or state laws regulating the protection of private information. 4. PCI Fines and Penalties - Credit or debit card industry fines and penalties for inadequately securing payment card information 5. Cyber Extortion Threat Expense - Extortion payments expense to hire negotiators and rewards to catch extorters. 6. Website Liability - Covers claims for libel, slander, right of privacy, plagiarism, misappropriation of ideas and infringement of copyright and trademark arising from the organizations website activity. 7. Identity Theft
Jean Luc couldnt comprehend that the insurance company paid $400,000 for such a claim. He thanked Barb for providing this coverage, and determined he would have a safe digital environment. Barb put him in contact with their Loss Control Department.
Jean Luc felt relieved and was so confident he could protect his busines s and clients that he began plans to add a third location. Jeff Pulford is President of www.InsureBeauty.com and writes articles for the beauty industry. The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014 23
Hair Anatomy
Hair Follicle: Located in the dermis, this part of the hair is underneath the skin. When it is pulled from the skin, it is called bulb. It maintains stem cells which are responsible for re-growing the hair. Hair Shaft: The hard, filamentous part above the dermis.
FOLLICLE BULB SHAFT
HAIR CURIOSITIES
Its a myth hair continues to grow after death Hair is the most common forensic evidence The word shampoo comes from the Hindu-Urdu word champna meaning to massage It takes only 13 days for grey hair to appear from stress or signs of aging Trichoptilosis: The scientific term for split ends The average lifespan of an eyelash is 150 days Black hair is the most common hair color Scotland has the highest proportion of redheads living in a country (13%) The anticipation of sex makes hair grow faster Hair absorbs oil out of water and was used in the recent Gulf oil disaster to clean up oil spills A balanced, healthy diet works hair wonders
A cross section of the hair shaft reveals three separate layers: 1. Almost like roof shingles, the cuticle consists of flat, tightly overlapping cells. 2. The cortex makes up the majority of the hair shaft. 3. The medulla is the center or the heart of the fiber.
COLOR FASTNESS
TEXTURE
TANGLING
When tangling occurs, gently comb through from ends to roots until all tangles are loose.
There are four major Depending on textures: fine, medium climate, processed hair (does not fly away), coarse & wiry. Determined by will fade quicker measuring the diameter than Remy (denier) of each hair. unprocessed.
9 -12 months.
Up to 180 f
Low to Medium
Minimal to none.
TOUPELON
(Modacrylic)
9 -12 months.
Up to 180 f
Low to Medium
Steamer or curling iron will reduce frizziness. Steamer or curling iron will reduce frizziness. Steamer or curling iron will reduce frizziness.
Minimal to none.
Up to 12 months.
Mimics human hair, smooth, soft, lightweight, heat friendly, strong, resilient & low absorbency.
Up to 400 f
Medium to High
None.
(Modacrylic)
9 -12 months.
Up to 284 f
Medium to High
Minimal to none.
Up to 356 f
Medium to High
Mimics human hair, smooth, soft, lightweight, heat friendly, strong, resilient.
Up to 360 f
Medium to High
Frizzing is possible.
Minimal to none.
CYBERHAIR
Up to 320 f
Colbalt Steel Thinning and Cutting Shears; always use an angle cut
Low to Medium
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DESIGNED BY E-ZIGN DESIGN GROUP FOR THE AMERICAN HAIR LOSS COUNCIL, E-ZIGN.COM, AHLC.ORG
by: Leonard Stillman, Director of Professional Services, Lexington International scientifically prove them. A peer review journal, on the other hand, is one that ONLY publishes articles that are reviewed by third party medical experts to assure that they are written in a totally unbiased manner. These articles provide scientific information only, and in this case, only reflect study results.
he results of four clinical studies on the treatment of male and female pattern hair loss with the HairMax LaserComb, was published January 30, 2014 in a peer-review journal, The American Journal of Clinical Dermatology. The article, Efficacy and Safety of a Low-level Laser Device in the Treatment of Male and Female Pattern Hair Loss: A Multicenter, Randomized, Sham Device-controlled, Double-blind Study was co-authored by renowned experts in the field of hair disorders. The complete study: http://link.springer.com/ article/10.1007/s40257-013-0060-6
: What is the significance of the publication of this article?
Experts in hair loss at major dermatology teaching institutions throughout the country conducted the studies. Some of these institutions include the Cleveland Clinic, University of Minnesota and the University of Miami.
: How does the publication of these studies impact the hair loss industry?
Until now, only the results of one large clinical trial with only male subjects has been published. It showed that low level laser therapy (LLLT) in general, and the HairMax LaserComb in particular, is a safe and effective nondrug treatment for herediatary hair loss. With so many products on the market, it is vital to have hard evidence that a product works based on scientifically designed clinical studies. Therefore, the publication of the results of these studies with both male and female subjects is an unprecendented event, in that the for the second time, a clinical trial with a large number of subjects, treated with the HairMax LaserComb conclusively showed once again, that LLLT is a safe and effective treatment option for hereditary hair loss in both men and women.
Many of the articles published that provide so-called proof that a product works, are published in magazines that have no peer review. Anyone can make claims about their products, but few can 28 The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014
First of all, it is important to know that there are only three treatments with FDA accreditation for treating pattern hair loss in men, Propecia (a prescription only, oral drug), Rogaine (minoxidil an OTC topical drug) andLLLT devices. For females, there are only two options, Rogaine (minoxdil) and LLLT. However, as the clinical paper pointed out, all of the studies to date, either had a small number of subjects, or only tested their device on one gender. The design of these four studies described in the paper, remedied the deficiencies of all of the studies to date, in that a large number of both males and females were included, which yielded irrefutable proof of efficacy and safety. The publication of the results now places LLLT in general, and the HairMax LaserComb in particular as an ideal safe and effective first-line, non-drug treatment they can confidently recommend for all people with appropriate classes of hereditary hair loss. An effective alternative to drugs is needed and one that also has an excellent safety record. The publications of these studies now provide conclusive proof that LLLT is a true treatment option that can be recommended and used with confidence. Many experts have seen a synergistic result from combining LLLT, minoxidil, propecia or a combination of all three in a treatment regimen.
Lexington was the sponsor of the studies and provided the funds for the research sites. Lexington utilized experts in designing the protocol or guidelines for the studies, which had to follow very strict guidelines called Good Clinical Practices (GCP). This guideline assured that the clinical studies were conducted in a manner that allows them to be conducted in a totally unbiased manner, with no input from the sponsor once the studies got under way. The final protocols were reviewed by institutional review boards at each study location to assure compliance to GCP and an independent Clinical Research Organization monitored the studies. Once all this is done, the research took place independently of Lexington. A person considering the HairMax LaserComb can rest assured that the clinical studies were carried out in the highest standards and that the results found are conclusive.
: How were the studies designed so that no biases were built into them?
The clinical studies were shamdevice controlled, which means that the lasercomb was tested against a non-active device. For the results to be a success, the laser comb had to have results that are statistically significantly better than the inactive device. Many
It was determined from prior experience that men and women began to show measurable results at 16 weeks and it was decided to also see what further changes occurred after 26 weeks. This is important in order to better categorize long-term results. The studies showed that many of the control device subjects lost hair over the course of the study, but those on the lasercomb did not. This means that people who continue to treat their hair loss will see results that sustain themselves for as long as the device is used, just as the subjects in the studies did.
Baseline
26 weeks
To reinforce this, the paper illustrated a poorly designed study that yielded no meaningful conclusions, with this discussion. there have been few peer-reviewed data on efficacy. In one published study, only seven subjects with pattern hair loss (six female subjects and one male subject) were evaluated upon treatment with a laser hood. The study was not sham devicecontrolled and the results did not reach statistical significance.
Success was measured by the increased density (growth) in hair treated with the laser comb compared to the sham (control/inactive device). This is method assures that the results can be quantified and do not solely rely on judgment calls such as hair appears thicker or seems to have grown more, etc. Further, since each study site is following the same protocol, results from each study center had to be the same, or close to the result at all the other sites (and they were), which provides proof that the results were not just happenstance, but were predictable. Studies that measure increases in hair growth are the gold standard in providing proof of efficacy.
The real test of how well a device works, is how the subjects perceived the changes in the appearance of their hair. While change in hair count is conclusive proof, when people see a real difference in their hair that is what treatment is all about. Here is the quote on this aspect from the study, A higher percentage of laser comb treated subjects reported overall improvement of hair loss condition and thickness and fullness of hair in self-assessment, compared with sham-treated subjects.
: Why were 224 subjects in total evaluated in the four clinical trials?
The amount of subjects chosen for each of the four studies was based on a mathematical formula to assure that the results were conclusive and predictable. The final number of subjects
The following direct quotes sum up the results of the study as far as efficacy and safety: In four randomized, double-blind, sham-controlled trials of MPHL [male pattern baldness] and FPHL [female pattern baldness], we detected a statistically significant increase in terminal hair density after 26 weeks of lasercomb treatment compared with sham treatment. Such improvement was independent of the sex and age of the subject and independent of the lasercomb
LLLT may be an effective option to treat pattern hair loss in both men and women. The article also addresses this: LLLT may provide a promising treatment option for patients who do not respond to either finasteride or minoxidil and who do not want to undergo hair transplantation. The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014 29
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Your resource for continuing education and accumulating points towards our Masters Certification. Discounts on class fees may be available to AHLC members. Ask when registering for classes.
AHLC ANNUAL CONFERENCE April 26-28, Hyatt Regency Pier 66, Fort Lauderdale Call Betty Bugden 570.462.1101 for info.
Di Biase Hair USA For a listing of scheduled certification classes throughout the U.S. visit www.dibiasehairusa.com/pages/certification.html or call 248-489-8900. Follea, 4C Workshop 4/29-30, Ft. Lauderdale, FL The FOLLEA 4C Workshops are uniquely designed to allow FOLLEA salon professionals reach the highest level of expertise in handling the supremely natural European hair, Next Generation Wigs and Topette Crown Extensions their clients have chosen. Learn from our experts. The Care, Cut and Color classes were designed by a master stylist in collaboration with a professional scientist/educator to emphasize the specificities of working with top-quality human hair pieces. The final class, Customization, explores all the options available and the details about each unique collection Call (310) 821-2860, log onto www.follea.com/technical-education-4c-workshops or email salon@follea.com. New Image Join us for the NIU LIVE 2014 Business Success Series, an exciting line-up of power-packed and hands-on conferences, hosted in our new, state-of-the art facility in West Palm Beach, Florida. Get to know New Image intimately and learn all there is to ensure the success of your hair replacement business: revolutionary new hair systems, late-breaking application techniques, cutting-edge hair fashion trends from Europe plus the newest business ideas. Choose from dates that work for you. If professional and business growth is your priority The NIU LIVE 2014 Business Success Series is an investment well worth your time and money. Make plans NOW to attend and call 1-800-359-4247 for dates. On Rite Regional Hair Academies 4/13-14, NJ, Two Day Womens HairReplacement Certification Class 6/15 Philadelphia, PA, One Day UltratressCertification Class 6/16 Philadelphia, PA, One Day Medical HairLoss Certification Class 6/29-30 Denver, CO, Two Day Womens HairReplacement Cert. Class Hair Academy, Corporate Offices, Ft. Lauderdale, FL May 5 - Ultratress Certification Class 5/17-20 - Mens and Womens Hair Replacement (3 days) and One DayMedical Hair Loss. Contact 800-327-5555 orwww.onritedirect.com. IHI 3/22-3/24 Cyberworld, Green Valley Ranch, Las Vegas, NV Make plans now to see all the new updates for Cyberhair Micro Point Solutions and Private Issue.
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hen I was 13 years old, my first job was at my parents barbershop. I had to clean the shop and shine shoes. I will readily admit that I hated it and would rather have been running around with my friends. To make things worse they always played elevator music in the shop. The only reprieve from listening to this boring music was at 5 oclock each day. I would listen to Ronald Reagans radio show, Thanks for Listening. His message to pursue your hopes, dreams and creative ambitions created a drive in me to start my own business.
lucky that I didnt need to take a check for the first three years in business. We had a cheap apartment, no debt and lived off Kims salary from an insurance company. Every dollar that came into the salon stayed in the salon. As we hired staff it would always cause a major drain on the cash flow. It seemed that I would take one step back in order to take two forward.
and set it on the nightstand every night. I had started running my first TV commercials. I would sell a few new people from these ads, but they were already wearing hair from somewhere else. I had to sell more or quit running the TV ads. Bonding is what changed my business and our industry. My first bonding client came from Chicago and wanted to know if I could re-bond his hair system. I learned how to do it in five minutes while on the phone with my supplier. Using a piece of tape in the front, fusion hooks and super glue I faked my way through it. Even so, that client still comes to me today! This taught me how stepping out of my comfort zone helped me grow. Now that I was getting into bonding, I needed to attract more clients. Hair Club was taking off on the national level and independent centers were seeing rapid growth. What they all had in common was that they were running infomercials. I bought my first infomercial in 1991. I paid $9,500 for a canned infomercial. The first week the infomercial ran we sold 13 clients new hair. For every dollar spent we were getting three dollars back. Now the problem was not getting clients, it was getting enough staff. There were times I backed off the ads because I couldnt handle the traffic. The 90s were a period of great growth for us. Salon Today named Keiths Haircenter one of the Top 200 Salons in America four different years. We opened a second location in Appleton, WI in 1995. As we grew we needed to expand our facilities and bought a 5000 square foot building for our Green Bay location. My staff had grown to 18 employees in a very short period.
At 16 I was my dads hairpiece assistant. Of course in 1978 the hairpieces were much different than what we work with today. I swear we did them all the same. Every client had a hard left hand part and a finger wave in the front. Barbers were not very knowledgeable about hair color so when the hair faded, we sprayed color on with a product called Chrometone. When I graduated from high school I became an apprentice barber under my dad and then finished my apprenticeship at another shop in Watertown, WI. After finishing my apprenticeship and getting married to my wife Kim, I desperately wanted to start my own business. I was 22 and couldnt get a bank loan. Although I couldnt figure out why no one would lend me the money I needed, I can see why a bank would not take a risk on a 22-year-old with no business experience. I had to fund the business with $3,000 from our wedding, a sears credit card and a landlord willing to take a risk on a 22-year-old kid. My first week in business, I only did three haircuts. In the second week I had five haircuts and somebody who wasnt related finally walked in the door. I was
Keith Zimmerman, In the year 2000 huge impact on the future of the business. He brought his hairpiece clientele with him. I was not doing any of this type of work at the time. When he left to live in Phoenix, I had to quickly learn how to service these clients. It was difficult at first to know how to deliver the hair and understand all the aspects of the hair replacement industry. I really had to seek out any education I could get. Selling two or three hairpieces a month seemed like great money. The problem was we werent attracting new clients. The next generation of hair wearers didnt want to wear a toupee
1984
1989
1996
Staying Current
This year Keiths Haircenter will celebrate 30 years in business. We have increased sales 28 of the last 29 years. The goal has always been to always keep improving. In 2012 it was time to improve our facilities. The Green
Bay location underwent a complete makeover. The interior and exterior were totally remodeled. In 2013 we moved our second location in Appleton, WI and matched the dcor to the Green Bay location. When we remodeled we opened a wig store at each location called Voga Wigs. Voga Wigs was opened to take advantage of the upswing in the womens market. It is designed as an upscale boutique with an inventory of 300 ready-to-wear wigs. The response has been incredible and the two businesses refer clients to one another depending on a womans needs. I appreciate everyone who supported me in living my dream. It has been an unbelievable journey. The success of Keiths Haircenter would never have been possible without a supportive family and a loyal dedicated staff. I believe our industry will develop and grow into the future. Nobody knows what our business will look like moving forward. The only thing I know for sure is that it will always be changing.
Keiths Haircenter and VOGA Wigs Today One thing that became apparent early on was that we needed to offer a variety of solutions. If we continued to only do top of the head bonding, we were not closing enough sales to continue our TV marketing. So we started offering laser treatments, clip-ons, wigs and hair extensions. We went from ten to seventy percent of our consultations buying a solution from us. By offering all of these other options, we kept them coming for salon services and many converted to more expensive hair replacement solutions. For the first time, in 2010, we sold to more women than men. Our program clients are now sixty percent men and
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*The HairMax LaserComb is indicated to treat Androgenetic Alopecia, and promote hair growth in males who have Norwood Hamilton Classifications of IIa to V and in females who have Ludwig (Savin) I-4, II-1, II-2, or frontal patterns of hair loss and who both have Fitzpatrick Skin Types I to IV. Laser Light - Avoid Direct Eye Exposure.
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