Apparel Industy-an overview

An apparel-manufacturing firm is one that buys fabrics, does the designing, pattern making, grading, cutting, sewing, and assembling of garments in factories that it owns. In a broader interpretation, an export oriented garment industry develops garments, controls production, sells to its buyers, and ships and bills for merchandise. Apparel distributors have their merchandise produce abroad due to several reasons like price advantage, exclusivity of product, foreign expertise, and any other factors that may be absent from domestic markets. There on the other hand, back at home, garment export industries generate good business, employment and foreign exchange for the country besides getting expanded markets and greater profit margins. Buyers do their dealings directly with the export house or through their owned or nominated buying houses, the latter case being more common. These overseas buying houses render their services to assist their stores (the buyers) in product development and securing merchandise for the garment industries. APPAREL MANUFACTURING ACTIVITIES The general processes of garment production are similar from one company to another. A great deal of difference exists, however, in how the processes are organized and how they occur within the industry. All the activities of an export house are built around the needs and demands of the buyer and organized in a way that produces a profit.
Executive leadership Merchandising

Marketing

Production

Quick response

Buyer

Finance

Operations

The process starts with the first meeting of the buyer and the company owner. Thereafter the firm goes through a series of steps in developing products from the design state to a finished garment style. Following text and flowchart gives a simplified

overview of the major steps in producing a garment detailed discussion of these steps as executed in Modelama exports pvt ltd (Woven wear division) is presented in this report further. LINE DEVELOPMENT OR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT STAGE The scope of this line starts from the very concept of the design up to the production stage. There are two stages here Predevelopment stage (before the order is placed) Post development stage (after the order is placed) Pre development Concept development- Based on the buyers need and ideas developed, a well targeted product assortment is selected in the first meeting. The design may be completely original, or selected from styles developed in past or simply a result of trial and error. Once the ideas of the buyers have taken birth in the merchandisers mind, an initial cost estimation for the style is made. Now the first patterns are made which may be modified later during the fit process. Initial patterns are normally done manually. Using these patterns prototype garments (first samples) are made and reviewed. The buyer sits together with the merchandiser to finalize the looks, eliminate some styles and order for final development samples with more specific instructions. These samples are then reviewed for cost, production feasibility, styling, sourcing for production, fabric requirements and availability, and profit potential. The decision is made at this point whether the garment will be accepted as a part of the new line and the final order is placed. Post development Once the final selections from the line have been designated for production, the next steps of pre-assembly occur. The styling and the fit are perfected for the final garment. Making the production pattern A highly skilled pattern master makes the production pattern for the garment in one size and a fit sample is developed for the buyers approval for fit. Pattern grading After the basic pattern is perfected and approved by the buyer, grading instructions are received to produce patterns for that garment in all the sizes. This is called size set. It is again sent for buyers approval and the finalized

sealed sample becomes the pre-production sample. No design changes will be incorporated after this. Marker making The next step after grading is marker making. The marker is made according to the ratio of orders. The marker is a long paper diagram that shows the placement of all of the various pattern pieces for all the sizes produced as they should be laid in order to cut the cloth economically and in appropriate grain line.

Ordering of production fabrics and supplies By this time the fabric sourcer would have already been in touch with textile mills and vendors of trims, buttons, zippers, and other components. Up to this point the company had ordered only enough to make the samples. But once the purchase order and the quality approval for the fabric from the buyer are received, the final order is placed with the vendors based on sales orders.

Final arrangements for production are made Production, planning and control and Methods engineering departments are now brought into the picture, who get ready to prepare the production floor for the new style.

Final specifications are developed Specifications are brief written descriptions or guidelines for how the garment should be produced and standards for the finished item. This includes standards for materials used, how assembly should occur, and details for what is expected in the garment.

Final costing Although a quick pre-costing occurred early in the predevelopment stage, a final costing occurs in the post-development stage before production begins. This is detailed costing to provide an accurate picture of what actual costs are going to be and to find ways to minimize costs wherever possible. PRODUCT SOURCING AND PRODUCTION Cutting Markers, production instructions and specifications are developed and sent to the cutting room. Cutting occurs with the marker, which provides the cutting plan. CAD sends a cut order to the cutting room to determine the quantity of garments

to be cut in various sizes. Layers of fabric are rolled out on long tables, marker is fixed on top of the layered fabric and then the cutter uses electrically powered portable knives and follows lines on the marker to cut through fabric layered several inches deep. Production: Garment assembly The cut parts of the garment are then collected, identified, and passed along for the sewing operation. At OC, progressive bundle system is followed i.e. workers sew one part of the garment in an assembly line manner. Workers are paid according to the number of pieces they produce. After the assembly the garments are inspected in a separate inspection department to ensure that the garments meet the quality standards expected. Workers then finish the pieces by trimming the loose threads and prepare it for pressing. Garments are pressed to give a pleasing appearance to customers who will view finished items. Now the garments are ticketed where price tags and other hangtags may be attached.

SHIPPING Once the garments are off the finishing line they are now ready to be packed and dispatched whenever and wherever the buyer demands in the most costeffective manner. Garments are shipped to the buyers warehouses in different countries, usually in cartons.

Thus we see how many steps are involved in getting a garment on the sales floor and how many people have contributed in important ways to produce and deliver the garment. A great many decisions and activities are part of the apparel development and production process. Each step is important in producing the merchandise that will ultimately satisfy the buyers customers and the apparel manufacturer strives to do his best in achieving it.

PREDEVELOPMENT

POSTDEVELOPMENT

PPC department sets production schedule

Buyers QC inspection

-Buyers need -Merchandisers and designer ideas

The Idea

Fabric is sourced and approved by buyer

Logistics decides the line set-up

Ready for shipment

Ideas developed into sketches

Fabrics and other trims for sampling are ordered

Fabrics and other trims are ordered for first sample

Pattern development for sample

Production package is forwarded to production manager

manager5er
PRODUCTION

Cost estimation (Quick-costing)

Sample developed & reviewed

Fabric in-housed and inspected

First pattern is developed

Fit sample is developed & reviewed

First samplePrototype is developed

Fabric sent to cutting roomspread and garments cut out

Production pattern is finalized Cut garments go to sewing operations and assembled

Proto sample reviewed

Grading details sent by the buyer

Additions/changes made as per buyers need

Pattern is graded

Development sample made

Sizeset developed and reviewed

Garments are given final production details and pressed

Additions/changes made as per buyers need

Buyer sends the sealer sample-pre production sample finalized

Final quality checks and finishing

Sample finalized & Buyer places order

Production marker is made

Tagging and packing of the garments

Merchandising
Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and presented to the buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product lines from start to finish. A merchandiser represents its manufacturing unit and works with the buyers for its product development. In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior merchandisers have responsibilities of product development and coordinating with the buyer, the garment styles that meet buyers expectations in regard to delivery, quality, and price point. Junior merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paperwork and follow up, detailing with buyers, overseas communication etc. Once the order is placed it is their duty to complete the necessary paperwork, provide breakdown information to all other departments and get samples approved for fit, color and quality. Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers, approval of production samples, and development of fabrics and yarns are also included in product development, which are co-coordinated with other departments. Merchandisers have to negotiate with the buyers on pricing, work out delivery schedules, and investigate for future buyers. Overall we can say that merchandising is the core department of the entire industry. MERCHANDISING ACTIVITIES First communication with the buyer After the head of the manufacturing firm, merchandiser is the first person who meet the buyer and who remain in their constant touch thereafter. The buyer approaches them with a design concept in his mind and accordingly the merchant offers what he has pertaining to those concepts. Designer with the help of merchandiser works on ranges using these ideas that have been communicated by the buyer. From these ranges the buyer picks up a style assortment and requests for proto development. Co-coordinating pre-development activities The proto development can be done on any base patterns, in any colors or in any styles as liked by the buyer. It is the first stage of giving an outline to the requirements of the buyer. A number of meetings and plenty of communication take place between the buyer and the merchant before he wishes for development of samples selected from the range of protos. Merchant gets these protos made in the sampling department and reviews it with the buyer. Once request for development sample is placed and the first patterns begin taking shape, initial costing is done to estimate the price of the selected garment. Making of development samples if a

further refined process wherein the buyer becomes more specific about his requirements. The required trims and fabric are sourced out as per need and sample is assessed on a continuous basis. The merchant and the buyer work in coordination until design comes up as exactly as intended by the buyer. All these are pre-development steps in the pre-production stage where the decision will be made as to whether the garment will be accepted as a part of the new line or not. Order receiving When the development samples are approved the buyer sends his purchase order. Purchase order gives the firm the authority to seek out raw materials for the production process. Information like order date, authority of the order and order number, delivery date, where and how to ship; any packing instructions, firms name, buyers style, prices and terms etc. is mentioned in a PO. Co-coordinating post-development activities Sampling for the final pre-production sample now begins (post development stage). The buyer along with the purchase order sends all details for his product in form of spec sheets. These are updated whenever the samples are reviewed for changes. Pre assembly occurs for perfecting the styling and fit. The merchant gets the final patterns made from highly skilled pattern master and sample garments are made for layout and fit approval from the buyer. This is the time between a style is accepted for the line and when a style is ready for the sewing floor. If the samples are not approved they are sent for corrections. When the buyer is satisfied with fit and layout (also called GFE- Garment Fit Evaluation), he sends grading instructions. Following the measurements specified in the graded spec sheet, the CAD develops graded patterns and garments are stitched in all sizes. This is called a size set which contains all the assorted sizes of the ordered style. It is sent for buyers appraisal for every size and if his requirements seem to be fulfilled, he sends back a medium sample with an approval seal and a go ahead to start the bulk sample. The sealer sample becomes the final pre-production sample. At every stage it is the responsibility of the merchant to get the fabric and the trims arranged for all sample make-ups as per the need. He keeps in constant touch with the buyer and communicates his instructions to the sampling and other departments. He maintains the style package and updates it every time the buyer makes any changes. A typical style package (or tech or communication pack) contains:

Development details

Folder summary Fabric details (fabric weight, width, count etc.)

Dyeing method Washing and finishing details Packaging details Garment sketches Garment type/category etc. Construction overview General construction Detailed construction Trims details Thread details Fabric details Cutting details (two way etc.) Insertions, seam type etc. Pictures of the trims Design component worksheet Color of trims, embroidery, decorative stitching etc. Multi-sample/Spec worksheet Sample comments Tolerance details Revised spec details etc. Trim research sheet Quality, type, measurement of trims Embroidered samples

Pitch sheet

Embellishment details like color fastness, fabric type & colors, color keys, shade card for the colors etc.

Lab dips

Swatches of lab dips Matching light conditions Comments Shade approval

Pitch sheet (combo) for pattern

Color keys for all patterns

Fabric chart

Details about the vendor, description of fabric, type, finishes, construction, colors, dips etc.

Development sample summary

Style Group Yarn GSM Fabric Pricing Number of units ordered Trims etc.

It is the merchants task to keep a well-managed record every detail sent by the buyer, get the samples made and approved for production and also to send out necessary directives for subsequent processes. Costing The most important activity for the merchant is to estimate correctly and negotiate for the cost of production before the buyer sends out his PO. During the pre-development stage an initial costing occurs to get an idea of the garment cost likely to be incurred per piece. These costs include general raw material cost, manufacturing cost, washing cost, markup cost etc. Once the production sample is approved and grading done a final costing is done accurately using fabric averages from the CAD, cost of trims etc. A garment costing includes:

Manufacturers cost

Materials Fabric Lining Thread Trims like zipper, elastic, buttons etc. Labor Direct expenses Factory burden Warehousing and transporatation Packing costs (tags, labels, hangers, pins, bags, cartons etc.) Overheads Sewing expenses Administrative expenses

Financing and interest Returns and allowances

Trade discounts Taxes Markdowns Shortages

The merchant first calculates the net weight (weight of the area of pattern pieces + wastages + collars, pockets, patches etc.) and then the gross weight (net weight + cost of trims, sewing thread, labels etc.) to reach the cost of raw material. Other costs like that of markup etc. are then added. These are normally standardized by the company itself. Co-ordinating other departments Sampling Sampling and merchandising go hand in hand. The merchant gets the samples made from this department, communicates his comments (like workmanship, fitting, measurement, fabric, accessories, print/embroidery) to the sampling head, pattern masters and QC of the department and finally follows up to get these changes incorporated in the style. He arranges for everything that is required in the style with the help of other departments. Embroidery department The merchant prepares the embroidery program for the embroidery department as per buyers needs. This program includes a graphics-briefing sheet (details about color, threads, type of embroidery etc.), artwork, threads, fabric and placement instructions. Fabrics department Merchandiser gets the fabric requirements from the buyer, instructs the fabrics departments accordingly, gets its pre testing and the lab dips approved and finally orders for the bulk fabric.

Trims store

While ordering trims the merchandiser first calculates average number of trims that will be required per piece. Then he prepares the trim sheet, which has all the trims that will be used in a particular style. This is sent to the store along with a request of the total quantity needed and the store places the order accordingly. Swatch cards of the procured trims are received from the store and approval made if it meets the buyers specification.

Making the production package When the pre-production sample is approved, the merchant contracts out the complete production of garments from cutting to finishing in form of a production package. This is handed out to the PPC department for further action. Following reorders Risk is a great concern in garment industry especially in fashionable apparel. Buyers usually test the market with a limited number of units, which they call as sales samples. According to the orders received by their customers, they reorder for that particular style instead of having them in stock. The merchant must be prepared for an order for the sales samples at any stage so that it can deliver them on time.

Sampling
A sample is a prototype of a product to be manufactured in future course of production. It can also be called Mock-up of a product and is made to check the design effectiveness and fit of the garment. Sampling is set of procedures followed to produce various sample styles. It contains activities like making of patterns for prototypes according to measurements, to produce sample with help of machinery and getting buyers approval for the sample produced. BASIC WORK FLOW: In any export house, the sampling department is one of the most important departments and it plays a vital role in the up liftment of a unit. Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the Merchandising and Production Department. Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when produced in bulk and to check whether there are any discrepancies in the pattern. Patterns are made according to the buyers specification. Merchandiser procures order from the buyer. The buyer sends spec sheet, sketches, fabric details, embellishment details, stitch types etc to the merchandiser. Merchandiser

files this information along with details regarding costing, average, proto, fit, correction, size set and approval in to a Style Package and hands it over to the Sampling department head. Sampling department head will receive the package from the merchant and understand about the requirements of the design. He allocates the style to a particular pattern master for its development. Pattern master co-ordinates with the CAD department in this regard. CAD will be responsible for digitizing the first patterns, fit corrections, gradings, size set correction, costing the marker for fabric order, making production cutting marker, pattern cuttings by CAD cutter and shrinkage addition in the patterns. The pattern master studies the style package thoroughly and makes the pattern on the brown paper pattern sheet, giving all the seam allowances, notches, darts, and style features as specified in the design sheets. The first pattern is made in medium size. This pattern is sent to the head-cutting master of the sampling department who gets the fabric cut accordingly. Three sizes of the same pattern size are cut. The merchandiser himself procures the fabric required for sampling from the store. Before sampling the fabric also undergoes the lab test and gets an approval by the buyer. After the fabric is cut, the components are sent back to the individual pattern masters handling that particular style. Pattern master gets it stitched in his line keeping in mind all the technicalities, design features and different types of stitches. The merchandiser gives the required accessories to the pattern master. Before cutting the fusing and embroidery is done if needed. The cut pieces are then stitched in their respective allotted sampling assembly lines, washed, checked by the sampling QC and finally finished and packed. These activities are personally taken care of the junior merchandisers and the line in charge so that quality samples are delivered within the time limit. The samples so prepared are inspected and checked for fit by the QA and sampling in charge. If they find any discrepancies they send back for correction or remake. Until they are satisfied, the merchant will not be sending them for buyers approval. At this first stage the sampling head also carries out initial costing with the help of the merchandiser for the entire garment. Sampling head is responsible for pattern making targets, setting sample sewing targets, setting responsibilities for concern, getting the work under control process and to make formats for each stage. His approval is must for execution of any next process in the department. Out of the three samples made, two are sent to the buyer for approval and one is kept for own reference. If the samples are according to the buyers specifications one piece is sent back with approval. If the sample is not up to the mark, then the buyer sends a comment sheet in which the further alterations are specified and fresh patterns and samples are made according to the comment sheet.

When buyers approval is sort, size set grading preparation begins according to the details sent by him to the merchant. At this stage the CAD department gives the second average (costing) as per grading for fabric booking. Grading in different sizes is done by the CAD according to the graded spec sheet sent by the buyer. Size sheet is also received which states the size ratio according to which the graded patterns are cut in that many number. For example the buyer may ask a size set as: S-1, M-3, L-2, XL-1 etc. Garments are made in this ratio and are checked by the QC in a similar manner as discussed earlier. Approved pieces are handed over to the merchant who sorts buyers approval for size set. If any changes are requested in the size set report then the CAD makes the corrections in the patterns and samples are re made afresh. If satisfied, the buyer sends back two pieces of medium size with a seal on it. This becomes the Sealer sample or the pre production sample. Production will be carried out according to this sample. At this stage one final costing is done after incorporating all the changes like shrinkage, tolerances etc. The merchant now integrates the PP sample, order details, sample details, patterns, markers etc. into a production package and hands it over to the PPC department for further development. Types of Samples:

Proto Sample: It is made in three pieces. One kept for own reference and two

sent to buyer for approval. These are the first ones to be made. Fit sample: They are also made three in number, two for buyer and one for own reference. These are accurate in fit and size, and made exactly in the same GSM and fabric as required. They have been perfected after a number of alterations in the measurements. Testing sample: Two of them are made. These samples are made to undergo tests at the testing lab. Size set sample: The buyer specifies the size ratio and sizes. Then the samples are made according to these sizes. This forms the size set. Sales Sample: For a pre-launch the buyer may request any quantity of their samples to be made before time. These are paid samples. Photo shoot: The buyer may ask for these samples for photo shoot or advertising of their product.

Fabric Sourcing

Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its merchandise i.e. fabric will be obtained. It works in co-ordination with the merchandising department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time and cost. A fabric sourcer must have knowledge about all varieties of fabrics in order to execute their functions effectively. Once the Purchase Order is received by the merchandiser, the fabric sourcing in-charge gets to know the delivery schedule of the raw materials needed to meet the requirements of the production schedule. Then before seeking the suppliers for fabric, he studies the specifications of the goods that have to be ordered. These specs include tolerance limits for all the parameters of the raw material, construction, esthetics, durability, utility and processing performance. The merchandiser receives these specs from the buyer and hands-over them to the fabric sourcing department for procurement of the fabric accordingly. Fabric sourcer also sources for trims and other specialty fabrics. Once the fabric sourcer knows what he must get and when it is due, he prepares a list of suppliers (Indian or Foreign) who can furnish the required quality and quantity, when and where needed at the desired price. He presents his requirements and specs to the vendors and finalizes the supplier on basis of the consistency of raw material supplied, on-time delivery and competitive prices. The supplier manufactures the fabric according to the specifications and sends the first lot for approval. Greige Fabric Suppliers Lakra Brothers Super Fine Kapoor Coats Ltd. Oswal Fashion Pvt Ltd. Ruhia Cotex Ltd. Mercury Knits Vallabh Yarn Shakthi Hosiery Saveena Agmotex

Dyed Fabric Suppliers J.L.Knits Attar Filte Dhruv Global

 Shyamtex Gem Knits Woven fabric is also imported from countries like Taiwan, Hong Kong and china. Once the first fabric lot is received, yardages from it are sent to testing lab. The test report is sent to the merchandiser for buyers approval. If the buyer gives the approval the bulk is in-housed, otherwise the fabricators are instructed accordingly. As the bulk fabric is received, it is sent for physical inspection in the store itself. When greige fabric is procured, it needs to be dyed in the same shade as required by the buyer. Here fabric sourcer approaches dyeing units with its dyeing program. First it gets Lab Dips of the fabric in the required color shade from the dyeing unit. These dyed sample swatches are sent for buyers approval for nearest match. Then only the dyeing unit is given a go ahead for dyeing the goods in the approved shade. Yardages from dyed or ready goods (bought directly) are sent for lab testing at nominated labs of the buyer for a number of physical and chemical tests as specified by him. The reports and sample fabric from the lot are sent to the buyer who crosschecks them and gives an approval for bulk cutting if he is satisfied with the results. Correct shade match, GSM, color fastness, washing behavior etc. are some of the most important properties that are looked for in the fabric. If the fabric does not meet the standards, it may have to be sent for washing or re dyeing. Once the fabric is confirmed for bulk production, and all the lots are in-housed, the fabrics department informs the PPC department. Fabric source department has a track of all the information about the goods available in its store. Order Tracking System installed in the store keeps their databases updated with the latest arrival and dispatch of goods from the store. These databases inform them about how much fabric is in-house, how much has been issued, what fabric is available in the store etc. People from the department keep in regular touch with the fabric and trims vendors for their latest offerings. They visit other countries; meet the suppliers and source out most up to date varieties of fabrics and trims, which they can offer to their buyers in future.

Receive PO from merchandiser

Receive shade approval

Prepare a fabric requisition

Send goods for dyeing

Raise the requisition to vendors

Receive dyed goods

Testing Laboratory

Garments are made from fabric with the help of sewing threads and a number of accessories like buttons, laces, ribbons, labels etc are sewn on them. All these things used to construct a garment have uncertain characteristics i.e. we do not know how they will behave in conditions like washing, sunlight, heat etc. when used by the consumer. Any undesirable changes in the fabric, thread or the trims would detract the aesthetic value of the garment and decrease its utility before time. Thus it becomes necessary to check or test the characteristics of all these components under the conditions to which they are susceptible to change or get damaged. Fabric and trims are tested for their quality, durability, color fastness, dimensional stability and physical know-how. Goods are procured from the suppliers only when the lab tests results confirm that they comply with the standards or requirements of the buyers. The buyers are also specific about the test method that has to be followed. AATCC and ASTM are two American standards that are used in the lab. AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) standards are given primarily for all the colorfastness and dimensional stability. ASTM (American Standard for Testing Materials) covers all the physical tests. ISO (International Standard Organization) is a European standard, which covers the colorfastness tests and the dimensional stability tests. Modelama has its own in-house fabric-testing laboratory equipped with all sophisticated instruments as per AATCC and ISO standards, where tests on fabric, garments, and trims are conducted. There are separate dry, wet and chemical testing areas in the lab along with a dark room for color matching. BASIC WORK FLOW:

Testing lab receives the fabric to be tested along with a test request form either from the fabric sourcing department or the fabric store (or garment from Quality Assurance/Merchandising departments). This form contains all the details like buyer name, style, sample description, and vendor. A swatch of the fabric to be tested is pasted on the form and tests to be conducted are specified. Depending on the number and type of tests to be carried, fabric yardages are sent to the lab (almost meter to 2 meter) Testing is done on behest of buyer and it is the buyer who specifies the tests to be conducted. Fabric sourcing department coordinates the communication and testing activities. Each buyer has its standard acceptance levels in testing. He may require testing to be done at a specified testing laboratory or one nominated by the buyer himself. Standard testing conditions (temperature and humidity) are maintained in the laboratory by precision temperature and humidity controller. Set temperature of the lab is 21C +/- 1C while set relative humidity is 65% +/- 2% Once the fabric is received for testing, it is allowed to relax, condition and acclimatize to the standard temperature and humidity maintained in the laboratory for at least 2 to 4 hours. A variety of tests are conducted on the conditioned samples but some of the tests like that of washing, crocking, rubbing, dimensional stability, count, fabric construction, GSM, content etc. are necessarily carried out for every fabric/garment. Following is a list of tests carried out in the lab: Color fastness to

Washing (30, 40, 49) Crocking/rubbing Water Perspiration Dry-clean Non chlorine/chlorine bleach Actual laundering Light

Physical tests for Count Construction Fabric weight

Twist/inch Spirality Button pull test

Dimensional stability after Washing Dry-clean

General Garment appearance Pilling test

Chemical tests for Fibre content pH of water extract/surface pH

Concept of gray scales:

Color fastness and pilling tests require grading of the results to draw objective inference of the behavior of the fabric or garment. Grading means comparing the tested and the standard fabric. This is done with the help of gray scales. Gray scale standards are of two types: one, that is used for testing the variation in color and the other that is used for the purpose of measuring the variation in the stain before and after wash or dry-cleaning. The stained or the tested fabric is matched with the shades on the gray scale in the light box kept in dark room. Matching is done on a slab that is tilted at an angle of 45 degrees in artificial light equivalent to sunlight. The gray scales show values ranging from 0 to 5 each indicating a different level of shade variation. For e.g. a value of 5 on gray scale used for stains indicates perfect white i.e. no variation found, 4 indicates slightly stained and this way the variation keeps increasing as we move towards the value of zero. Similarly a value of 5 in a gray scale used to test the color variation indicates no color variation, a value of 4 indicates slight color variation and this way the variation keeps increasing as we move towards the value of zero. A value on gray scale below 4 is not acceptable unless otherwise specified by the buyer.

After conducting all the required tests, a test report is made which contains the results of testing. It also includes comments and inferences pertaining to the results by the testing department. This report is sent back to the fabric-sourcing department, where it will be decided the fabric has passed the test or not and whether the fabric is acceptable according to the set standards.

EQUIPMENT USED IN THE TESTING LAB

Testing Equipment Equipment Dry area Pick glass/counting glass GSM Cutter Electric Balance Pilling Tester Crock Meter (Manual & computerized) Bursting strength tester Snap Tester Light Fastness Tester Data Color Spectra flash (Spectrophotometer) Wet area Front Loading Washing Machine Top loading washing machine Laundrometer Tumble Dryer Hot air oven Chemical area Spiro meter pH Meter Purpose Constructional parameters like CPI, WPI To cut a standard size sample fabric for GSM For weighing and determining count, GSM etc. Predict pilling behavior Color fastness to rubbing Measure bursting strength of the knit fabric Measures snap button and pulling strength Color fastness to sunlight Color matching and recipe formulation General Wash For shrinkage/spirality test Color fastness to washing and Dry cleaning Drying washed fabric For drying Color fastness to perspiration Measure pH of chemical solutions prepared

*Refer Appendix A for the testing procedures and chemicals used.

Receive Fabric Yardage/Garment & Test Request Form

Acclimatize the fabric in standard atmosphere for 3 hrs

DRY/PHYSICAL TESTING

WET/CHEMICAL TESTING

GRADING with Gray Scales

Prepare Test Report

Send back report with comments

WORKFLOW IN TESTING LAB

Fabric Store
Modelama maintains its own in-house centralized fabric store, which caters to the needs of eight-knitwear units spread in Gurgaon and surrounding areas. Fabric storehouse is the actual area where the fabric for production is received or dispatched for processing. Besides storage the fabric store department is also responsible for the inspection of the goods received by it.

FABRIC STORAGE AREA

LOADING AREA UNLOADING AREA

ORDER TRACKING SYSTEM

GREIGE FABRIC STORE

Greige fabric inspection

PROCESSED FABRIC STORE

TRIM STORE

The activities going on in the fabric storehouse are briefly explained ahead. ORDER PROCESSING AND FABRIC IN-HOUSE The merchant receives the Purchase Order from the buyer. On the basis of this purchase order, the fabric sourcer prepares a requisition for the fabric as per the demands of the buyer and raises it to the fabric vendors in the market. The best deal and the vendor are finalized and the order is placed. The factory may send the yarn from the store to the fabricators for fabric production, buy greige goods for dyeing or directly order the processed fabric to the vendors. Once the fabrics department receives the approval for the fabric, the vendor sends it in form of lots within the specified time

Processed fabric inspection table

period and the fabric is made in house in the fabric store. About 5% extra goods are supplied by the vendor. The fabric via transport trucks comes in various packages like rolls, book fold, open width etc. The packages are unloaded on conveyor belts (500 kg capacity), which takes them to the weighing machine. Each consignment comes in with an invoice having details like quantity, color, GSM, and weight. The goods are weighed and other details are reconfirmed before they are stored. Bar code system Modelama uses a unique method for tracking its orders by Bar- coding. This automated system reduces stress on order processing and invoicing which otherwise is highly paperwork-intensive. It also eases management of back orders. The factory prepares its own barcode stickers according to the P.O. and puts it on the goods once they are in housed. Bar code is a series of vertical bars that helps to identify the merchandise category. Using a hand held laser scanner the bar codes are read and an Order tracking System software interprets all the information contained in them like PO no. Supplier no. Roll No. Component Color Size Lot no. OCL unit no. Estimated lot qty. Rolls Individual weight etc. This information is uploaded automatically in all the computer systems of the departments like fabric store, fabric sourcing, production and PPC, merchandising (via networking), thus eliminating the burden of re-entering data. Bar coding allows automatic updating of records, rapid identification of the products and quick sorting whenever they are dispatched from the fabric store to the vendors for processing or to the cutting room. Fabric stores maintains records on a daily, monthly and yearly basis for all the goods received both quality-wise and quantity-wise. The goods are in-housed in the store at least one month prior to production. Besides fabric the storehouse is also responsible for the receiving ordered trims and other fabrics.

FABRIC INSPECTION

The fabric being the main contributor to the development of our final product i.e. the garment, it is very important to control its quality (indicated by the number of faults and variations present in it. Identification of these objectionable variations and faults right at the initial stage helps to reduce the production time. So once the fabric is inhoused it is immediately sent on a pilot and trolley assembly to the inspection area.

Greige fabric inspection

The greige fabric is normally in tubular form and it is checked on the inspection machine inclined at an angle of 45. The machine has two rollers. One is Let off roller and the other is Take up roller. Let - off roller releases the fabric for checking and take up roller winds the fabric back. Special lights mounted at the top of machine and beneath the fabric provide illumination (standard 500 lux) for checking both the surfaces of the tubular fabric simultaneously. The speed of the rollers can be adjusted as required. The checker loads the machine with the fabric roll and analyses the running fabric for faults. Defects in greige fabric broadly occur due to two reasons- yarn defects or knitting defects. Yarn defects show up in the fabric in form of horizontal lines. Uneven yarn, uneven yarn tension, mixed yarn, uneven twist, weak yarn, misaligned and poor wound cones etc. are common yarn defects which give rise to fabric faults. Some of these faults are not seen in dyed fabrics but others remain objectionable even after processing.

Contamination is caused due to contaminated yarn or yarn mixed with dirt. Its

color appears different from the base color. This is common problem in knitting when yarns of two different colours are used simultaneously. They remain even after dyeing. Kitties occur due to the impurities present in the cotton fibre. These are spread all over the fabric as tiny specs and get removed during processing of the fabric. Slubs are formed due to knot and other yarn imperfections.

Knitting defects usually show up as vertical lines in the fabric. Bent or wrong needles, worn out machine parts, dirt accumulation in the machinery parts, poor machine settings are reasons of knitting defects occurring in the fabric. Most knitting defects are not removed during processing.

Holes and cuttings are the portion of the fabric, which has been cut or where no

knitting has taken place. They may vary from very minute in size to very large. Needle break occurs when the machine fails to knit due to a broken needle. This appears as long vertical lines of missing yarn; sometimes extending up to 2 meter. Stain of machine oil and dirt are acquired in the fabric during handling of the fabric. They are removed during washing. Sinker Line is a calendar line that appears in whole roll of fabric, as small streaks due to stiff sinkers. Knit-in faults are missing or overlapped loops and they occur due to wrong machine timings, or when the needle fails to make loop or knock off. Needle marks occur in the fabric due to dirt and oil accumulated in the needle or due to improper needle size. Fly is loose fluff trapped in the yarn during knitting. It is removed during processing. Edge knitting occurs in collars and ribs when the flatbed-knitting machine fails to knit at the edge turning. Knitting tension variations due to improper cam settings, or machine stoppages manifest in the knit fabric in form of uneven elastic behavior.

There are norms for every fault that appears in the bolt pertaining to its frequency of occurrence and dimensions, which would lead to its rejection. For e.g. a roll having more than 10 holes will be rejected. The checker keeps the number of defects he has come across in his mind and based on his experience and the minimum rejection criterion (4 point AQL system) he approves or rejects a roll. The roll if rejected is pasted with a red sticker and sent back to vendor for replacement. If accepted, it is pasted with green sticker and kept in store until sent for dyeing. An inspection register is maintained to keep track of every roll inspected.

Processed fabric inspection

Dyed and other processed goods are best inspected manually due to the problems in recognition of minute variations. Two checkers do this job on large tables (measuring 96.5 inches 48.5 inches) arranged in a row. Both sides of the tubular fabric are checked one after another. Alteration stickers are placed wherever the fault is found. Besides the faults mentioned before, some dyeing defects also creep in the fabric during uneven processing and poor handling of the fabric.

Streaks of different shade occur due to uneven dyeing. They appears as

horizontal bars in the fabric. Yarn barriness or often-called yarn patta is characterized by a ridge or mark running in the crosswise or lengthwise directions of the fabric. Barriness can be caused by tension variations in the knitting process, poor quality yarns or problems during the finishing process. Shading (Side Selvedge or end to end) is a condition when shade variation is seen from the selvedges towards the center or from one end of the fabric to other. It is caused due to improper windup during dyeing. Bowing and Skewness are very common faults in knits, occurring due to bad material handling during processing. They throw the fabric out of grain i.e. the courses and the wales no longer remain perpendicular to each other.

*Refer to Appendix B for various types of woven fabric faults Every defect encountered is marked with an arrow sticker. A fabric checking report is filled which gives the details about the defects found. After the checking is done the fabric is repacked in large poly-bags and graded according to the standards set by company. The grades are as follows: Ist Class No defects IInds/Mended Class Defects are present but under acceptance level. These defects can be mended to first class by subsequent processing. Rejected Defects are present beyond acceptance level

The fabric under Ist and IInd category are pasted with Green sticker and kept in store while the rejected one is pasted with red sticker and sent back to the vendor. These stickers provide information like Style, Color, Lot no, Tube Size, GSM, remarks and checked by. Yardages from accepted goods are sent for lab testing, which is done on few meters of cloth by the testing department. The report is sent to the merchant for buyers approval. Accordingly the fabric is sent for mending (washing, re dyeing etc.). Unless the buyer is satisfied with the fabric quality, the fabric will not be issued from the store. STORAGE

Racking system of storage is followed i.e. fabric packages are stored in the racks in two areas: (a) Checked Fabric and (b) Unchecked Fabric. They are further segregated on the basis of Style no and Lot wise. The fabric is put in the racks with the help of Fork Lift and pallets. Such a systematic maintenance of the store makes it is easy to locate the fabric whenever needed in future. FABRIC ISSUE The fabric store issues the fabric to for cutting on reproduction of the job card. All fabric is not issued at one go; instead it is issued as required. The job card contains information regarding style no, color, buyers name, and quantity to be issued and issued for which production unit. The fabric department then issues the fabric according to the details as furnished in the job card. Fabric store also keeps the fabric library of the company updated with the new fabrics coming in store. DOCUMENTATION Fabric store has a huge documentation work as well. Bar coding has lent a helping hand in it and eased the task of record keeping. Nevertheless, following records are also manually maintained:

Stock Register for information about the stock present in the store at a given
date

Receiving Register for information like fabric received from where, when and in

how much quantity. Issuing Register for information regarding the fabric issued to the dyeing mills. Checking Register for information about the rolls inspected, GSM, Tube width, faults and number of rolls approved and passed. GSM Record Register for GSM of all the fabric rolls is stored in the house, along with their swatches. Pending Checking Status Report maintained on daily basis for information regarding the rolls that are pending for checking. Fabric Checking Report, which states the type and number of defects and whether the roll is rejected or passed.

Purchase Order Received

Fabric Requirement prepared

Processed fabric inspection

Requirement raised to the vendors

Physical checking

Lab testing

Trim store
Trims store houses all kind of accessories called trims. Trims like sewing thread are used to form stitches in fabric; buttons, laces etc. give the garment a complete look;

while labels etc. give important information about the garment. Trim store also keeps stock of the stationary for the company and package material for production. Unlike fabric, trims are very small in dimension so they need a very careful and systematic storage system in order to prevent time and money loss. Non-availability of trims on time may lead to suspension and delay in production. A well-managed trim store must be able to cater to all the needs of the sampling and production departments. BASIC WORKFLOW As per buyers need the merchandiser makes a trims card in which samples o f all the trims that are going to be associated with a particular style are attached. The trims card other than trims contains information like quantity, color, style no, buyer, vendor etc. It also states the size and content of the trims. This trim sheet is handed over to purchase department by the merchandiser. Usually 5% more than required trims are procured as they are subjected to defects, leading to rejection. Wastage of trims is also high. The purchase department orders the trims of required specification and required quantity as specified in the trims card. The order is placed with either a local vendor or specially imported. The buyer may also nominate the suppliers of the trims. The merchandiser must get any locally procured trim approved by the buyer. Only after his approval is the order is placed. Trim store receives the ordered trims and stores it. All the trims are in housed much before the production commences because they do not come in specific lots like the fabric. Depending upon the availability with the vendors, trims are sent. Imported trims mostly come from Hong Kong and Singapore. Checking and approval Once the trims are in housed a random checking is done. Firstly, the sizes and specifications of the trims are matched with the ones on the trims card. Then samples of each type of trims are checked for quality. The quantity of the trims is also checked. Lab testing (like testing button pull strength, snap fastener testing and thread testing etc.) is also done if specified by the buyer. Then a physical checking of the whole lot takes place where each individual piece is physically checked for defects. Trims that do not meet the acceptance level are rejected and separated from the rest. These rejected pieces are sent back to the vendor for replacement. A checking report is also maintained for imported trims, giving details like style no, buyer, vendor, shortage, rejection and approved quantity etc. This report is sent to merchandiser and the purchase department.

After checking a trims swatch card is prepared. The swatch card carries all the trims for a particular style and information like the buyer, vendor, style no. etc. This swatch card is sent to the merchandiser for approval. Merchandiser checks the trims with the one he ordered and if it complies with his buyers requirements, he approves it and sends it back to trims store. The trims are now packed and stored style wise. They are ready to be issued to the production department. Separate racks are allocated to different trims where they are further separated style-wise. People from the sub units of trim store or the production department approach the trim store as and when they require the trims. Trims store too have information that which style will be produced where and which trims are required when and in how much quantity. The trims are issued against a job card produced to them. Sampling Section of Trim Store Trim Store has its own sampling section also where trims are solely stored for sampling department. Merchandiser and designers visits the trim store whenever they are working on a new sample. Anything useful can be issued on an invoice. If the trims required are not available, they file a request with the trim store to procure the required trims of certain specifications in required quantity. Trim store sources the request and makes it available for the merchandiser to help them in sampling process. TYPES OF TRIMS Labels and tags: Main label, size label, wash care label, country of origin label, loop label, content label, time label, carton stickers, Unique Price Code tickets, License Hang tags, logo transfer etc. Buttons and fasteners: Available in different sizes and material, Snap buttons, hooks, rivets, Velcro tape etc. Sequins, dimonties and beads: Embroidery accessory in variety of shapes and colors Threads: Sewing and embroidery threads. Interlining and Fusing material, shoulder pad, paper foam etc Tape, ribbons, laces: Shoulder tape, neck tape, mobilon tape, twill tape, satin laces, elastic ribbons, braids etc. Embroidery patches, Transfer prints

Needles, Zippers Packing Material: Poly bags, hangers, adhesive tape, cartons, tissue paper, kimbles Stationery like Cad Roll paper, alteration stickers, record books etc. *Refer to Appendix F for the different types of Trims

Receive Trims card from merchandiser

Purchase dept orders trims and costing done

Receive from vendor

Check for general quality and quantity

Physical checking of

Fabric Library
Modelama has a huge collection of woven fabrics, which is displayed in its very systematic library of fabrics. Swatches of fabrics are arranged in the library, segregated on the basis of fabric structure, season content and yarn count. These swatches have complete information

about the fabric including name of the fabric, reference number, content, yarn count, GSM, CPI/WPI, tube width and special finishes. The library helps the designers, merchandisers and even the buyers to explore the fabric varieties available with factory. Newly launched fabrics from the vendors are also displayed here. Whenever a new fabric comes in the store, yardages are procured from it and stored in the library. They are sent for lab testing and report are filed for any future reference. Samples are exhibited on hanger cards or simple swatch cards kept in racks. The library also displays mood boards for the current season. .

Production, Planning and Control

The function of PPC department is to produce the required product with minimum total cost and time for the delivery required. It monitors the progress of the production of any and every individual product from the receipt of raw material to the shipment of order.

Once the purchase order is received from the buyer and the pre-production sample finalized, the production procedure starts. The merchant prepares the production package file containing all the details regarding the production and shipment of the order and hands it over to the PPC department. Here the work of a merchandiser ceases and that of the PPC department begins. This package is studied thoroughly for the production delivery of the goods for shipment. According to the target date the PPC department shall schedule the entire production process. Thus PPC has to actually schedule what and where an activity has to be done and when. It prepares a time table for all the activities like: Fabric requisition Fabric status for issue Trims status for issue Fabric issue to cutting Cut order ready for issue on floor Embroidery program Wash program Assembly Finishing Packing Shipment

Correct estimation of the time that each activity would take is very important- this being most crucial in case of garment assembly. For this the PPC department sends the Production package to the logistics and R&D department, which conducts a time study for the style and give their estimated time of production. Accordingly the PPC allocates different styles to different units depending upon the order quantity and delivery date. From the data of the time study conducted by the Production targets are set for the production floor for each month, week, day and hour. This is an important decision because only correct inputs will lead to desired output. Control means not just setting targets but bringing the actual near to the standard. PPC monitors every stage of production and it is responsible for deciding an appropriate action that must be taken to change the plan whenever production is behind the planned schedule. It makes sure that the required product is produced with minimum total cost and time for required delivery. For this PPC has a huge database of records helps the controllers in following up and telling the what, when, and where of an action.