Topofsection

Provence
Includes Marseille AixenProvence Arles TheCamargue Avignon Orange MontVentoux GorgesduVerdon ParcNationalduMercantou

WhyGo?
Provenceconjuresimagesoflavenderfields,gorgeousstonevillages,wonderfulfoodandsuperbwinemostpeoplesideaofaperfectholiday.It certainlydeliversonallthosefronts,butwhatmanyvisitorsdontexpectisProvencesincrediblediversity.TheVaucluseandLuberonregions epitomisetheProvenalclich.But,nearthemouthoftheRhne,craggylimestoneyieldstosaltmarshes,wherepinkflamingosreplacepurple lavender.Inthesouth,thelight,whichcaptivatedVanGoghandCzanne,beginstochange,apreludetotheCamarguesbleachedlandscapes. AmidHauteProvencessoaringpeaksandrawwilderness,halfmilehighgranitewallslordoveraserpentineriverattheGorgesduVerdon.The regionsothersurprisesareitscities,sultryMarseilleandwonderfulArles. Onethingremainsconstanteverywhere:thefoodclean,brightflavours,assimpleassweettomatoesdrizzledwitholiveoilandsprinkledwith fleurdesel(seasalt)fromtheCamargue.

BestPlacestoEat
RestaurantPierreReboul(Clickhere) AubergeLaFenire(Clickhere) CafVranda(Clickhere) LAtelier(Clickhere) SanglierParesseux(Clickhere)

BestPlacestoStay
HtelLaMirande(Clickhere) LeCouvent(Clickhere) RelaisdElle(Clickhere) HtelVertigo(Clickhere) LeMasdePeint(Clickhere)

WhentoGo

EasterKickoffthebullfightingseasonwithFriadArtes.

Jul&AugWadethroughbloominglavenderandseeperformingartistsatFestivaldAvignon. Sep&OctWaitforcooltemperaturesandthegrapeharvesttobiketheLuberonsbackroads.

ProvencesBestMarkets
Whateverthedayoftheweek,thereisamarketsomewhereinProvence.Moochingaroundthestalls,tastinglocalspecialitiesandbuyingpicnic treatsandsouvenirsisaquintessentialpartofProvenallife.Hereisourlistoffavouritesandtheirflagshipwares: Forcalquier(MondayClickhere)Lavenderproducts,honey,Banoncheese VaisonlaRomaine(TuesdayClickhere)Deliciousfruitandveg,charcuterie(pts,saucissonsandmore) StRmydeProvence(WednesdayClickhere)Olives,oliveoilandasprinklingofcelebrities Carpentras(FridayClickhere)Berlingots(colourfulsweets),trufflesinwinter Arles(SaturdayClickhere)Camarguesalt,saucissondArles(bullmeatsausage) AixenProvence(SundayClickhere)Flowermarketandaverychiccrowd

GETTINGAWAYFROMITALL
ItsnottoodifficulttogetoffthebeatenpathinProvence.Inthegreatoutdoors,hikealongMarseillesrockycoastlineatLesCalanques(Clickhere)or picnicinthepeacefulJardinsdelAbbaye(Clickhere)inVilleneuvelsAvignon,aworldawayfromAvignonscrowds,butonlyatinyhopacrosstheriver. ExplorethepeninsulasandislandsoftheParcNaturelRgionaldeCamargue(Clickhere)orthesublimewildernessofParcNationalduMercantour(Click here). Forafewdaysofpeaceandquiet,checkinatLeMasPerral(Clickhere)orLaBouquire(Clickhere)intheLuberonorRelaisdElle(Clickhere)in PaysdeForcalquier,wheregoodfood,selectcompanyandbigviewswillensureyouwinddown.Andwhenyoufeellikegettingout,trackdownartists workshopsinOppdeleVieux(Clickhere)andSaignon(Clickhere),orgoforascenicdriveacrossthelavenderfieldsofPlateaudeValensole(Clickhere ). Finally,dropintoPrieurdeGanagobie(Clickhere),wherethemonksstickbytwomaintenets,oneofwhichislisten:sharetheirserenity.

TheFinerThingsinProvence
TherearesomanywaystotreatyourselfinProvence.Yourbudgetmaynotstretchtothemall,butafewofourfavouritesinclude:spendingthe nightanddiningatLaBastidedeMoustiers(Clickhere)takingawinetastingcourse(Clickhere)inChteauneufduPape(andshippinga caseofwinehome!)learningtocookinthesumptuouskitchenofHtelLaMirande(Clickhere)andenjoyinganightofoperainOranges grandioseThtreAntique(Clickhere).

ProvenceHighlights
Soakupseething,headyMarseille(Clickhere) TrailVanGogharoundArles(Clickhere),visitingspotswherehepaintedsomeofhisbestknowncanvases SpotpinkflamingoswhileridingwhitehorsesintheCamargue(Clickhere) Canoe,canyonorhikealongthevertigoinducingGorgesduVerdon(Clickhere) Takeawalkonthewildsideinthestunning,remotevalleysoftheParcNationalduMercantour(Clickhere) StandinaweatthesheersizeandmagnificenceofOrangesexceptionalThtreAntique(Clickhere) ExplorewindingroadsandstonevillageslikeRoussillon(Clickhere)amidLuberonscherryorchardsandsunflowerfields

History
SettledoverthecenturiesbytheLigurians,theCeltsandtheGreeks,theareabetweentheAlps,theseaandtheRhneRiverflourishedfollowing JuliusCaesarsconquestinthemid1stcenturyBC.TheRomanscalledtheareaProvinciaRomana,whichevolvedintothenameProvence.After thecollapseoftheRomanEmpireinthelate5thcentury,Provencewasinvadedseveraltimes,bytheVisigoths,BurgundiansandOstrogoths.

MAXOUTMARSEILLE
BuyacentsavingMarseilleCityPass(one/twodaypass22/29)atthetouristoffice(Clickhere).Itcoversadmissionto15museums,acitytour, unlimitedpublictransporttravel,boattripsandmore.

Duringthe14thcentury,theCatholicChurch,underaseriesofFrenchbornpopes,moveditsheadquartersfromfeudrivenRometoAvignon, thusbeginningthemostresplendentperiodinthecitys(andregions)history.ProvencebecamepartofFrancein1481,butAvignonand CarpentrasremainedunderpapalcontroluntiltheRevolution.

EUROPEANCAPITALOFCULTURE
Marseille,AixenProvenceandArlesareEuropeanCapitalofCulture(Clickhere)in2013.Hundredsofconcerts,exhibitionsandeventsarescheduled makesureyoucheckoutwhatson.

GettingThere&Away
TheTGVzipsfromParistoAixenProvence(threehours),Arles(fourhours),Avignon(2hours)andMarseille(threehours).OnSaturdaysinJuly andAugust,theresadirectEurostarservicefromLondontoAvignon(from135return,sixhours). LignesExpressRgional(LERwww.infoler.fr)runsregionalbuses.ForbusestotheAlpsofHauteProvence,seewww.cg04.fr(inFrench), andnavigatetoTransport. AsmorgasbordofairlinesserveAroportMarseilleProvence,linkedtoMarseilleandothercitiesacrossProvencefromtheVitrollesAroport station.FerriessailfromMarseilletoSardinia,TunisiaandCorsica.

MARSEILLEREGION Marseille
POP858,902

MarseillewasformanyyearsthebuttofFrenchjokes.Nomore.Thecitphocenne(inreferencetoPhocaea,theancientGreekcitylocatedin moderndayTurkey,fromwhichMarseillessettlers,theMassiliots,camefrom)hasmadeanunprecedentedcomeback,undergoingavast makeover.Theresultslookratherfabulous:witnessthePanierquarter,thenewRpubliqueneighbourhoodwithitsswankyboutiquesand Haussmannianbuildings,thecitysshinytramline,andthebrandnewdocksandmarinaaroundthefamousstripedCathdraledelaMajor. Marseillaiswilltellyouthatthecitysroughandtumbleedginessispartofitscharmandthat,forallitsflaws,itisaveryendearingplace.Theyre right:Marseillegrowsonyouwithitshistory,fusionofcultures,souklikemarkets,millenniaoldportandcorniches(coastalroads)alongrocky inletsandsunbakedbeaches.TheirultimatevindicationcamewithMarseillesselectionasEuropeanCapitalofCulturefor2013.

Marseille
TopSights
BasiliqueNotreDamedelaGarde E7

Sights
1 FondsRgionald'ArtContemporain D1 2 JardinduPharo C5

Sleeping
3 4 5 6 HtelEdmondRostand G6 HtelLeRichelieu B6 LeRyad G3 SofitelMarseilleVieuxPort C5

Eating
7 CafPopulaire G6 8 LaCantinetta G4 9 L'Epuisette A7 10 LesPiedsdanslePlat H5 11 RestaurantMichel B6

Drinking
12 AuPetitNice H4 13 LongchampPalace H2

Entertainment
14 EspaceJulien G4 15 L'Intermdiaire H4

History
Around600BC,GreekmarinersfoundedMassilia,atradingpost,atwhatisnowMarseillesVieuxPort(OldPort).Inthe1stcenturyBC,thecity

lostoutbybackingPompeytheGreatratherthanJuliusCaesar:CaesarsforcescapturedMassiliain49BCanddirectedRomantrade elsewhere. MarseillebecamepartofFranceinthe1480s,butretaineditsrebelliousstreak.ItscitizensembracedtheRevolution,sending500volunteersto defendParisin1792.Headingnorth,theysangarousingmarch,everafterdubbedLaMarseillaisenowthenationalanthem.TradewithNorth AfricaescalatedafterFranceoccupiedAlgeriain1830andtheSuezCanalopenedin1869. Aftertheworldwars,asteadyflowofmigrationfromNorthAfricabeganand,withit,therapidexpansionofMarseillesperiphery.

Sights
CENTRALMARSEILLE
Marseilleisdividedinto16arrondissements(districts).SightsconcentratearoundtheVieuxPortandLePanierdistricts.Dynamicdockland redevelopmentistransformingLaJoliettetothenorth. Thecitysmainthoroughfare,LaCanebire(fromtheProvenalwordcanebe,meaninghemp,afterthecitystraditionalropeindustry), stretcheseastwardsfromtheVieuxPorttowardsthetrainstation. VariousmorningmarketsfillcoursJulien,anelongatedsquarewithaforestofpalmtrees:freshflowersonWednesdayandSaturday,antique booksonalternateSaturdays,andstampsandantiquebooksonSunday.Cafesonitswesternsidecookupworldcuisine.

CentralMarseille
TopSights
LePanier D2 VieuxPort D5

Sights
1 AbbayeStVictor B7 2 BasFortStNicolas A6 3 CathdraledelaMajor B2 4 CentredelaVieilleCharit C1 5 FortStJean A4 6 MusedesCivilisationsdel'Europe etdelaMditerrane A4 7 MuseduSanton C6

Activities,Courses&Tours
8 CroisiresMarseilleCalanques C4 9 LeGrandTour E4 10 TouristTrain E4

Sleeping
11 12 13 14 15 16 CasaHonor C7 HtelBelleVue E4 HtelEscaleOceania F4 HtelLaRsidenceduVieuxPort E4 HtelSaintFerrol G5 HtelVertigo G1

Eating
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 JardindesVestiges F4 LaCasertane F6 LaPartdesAnges F6 LaPassarelle C6 LeCafdespices D3 LeComptoirDugommier H2 LeGraindeSel E6 LesArcenaulx E6 PizzariaCheztienne D1

Drinking
26 CaffNoir H5 LaCaravelle (see12) 27 LeBardelaMarine D5 28 LesBuvards D3 29 Polikarpov F5

Entertainment
30 AuSondesGuitars F5 31 EspaceCulture G4 Fnac (see37) 32 LaNoche C6 33 LeTrolleybus D6 34 PelleMle D5 35 XYLeClub F6

Shopping
36 72%Ptanque C2 AtelierduSanton (see7) 37 CentreBourseShoppingCentre F3 38 LaMaisonduPastis D4 39 PlaceauxHuiles D3

VieuxPort HISTORICQUARTER
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( VieuxPort)Shipshavedockedformorethan26centuriesatthecitysbirthplace,thecolourfulOldPort.Themaincommercialdockswere transferredtotheJolietteareanorthofhereinthe1840s,buttheoldportremainsathrivingharbourforfishingboats,pleasureyachtsandtourists. ThefreeCrossPortFerry( 8am12.30pm&15pm)infrontofthetownhallisafunwaytogetoutonthewater,howeverbriefly. GuardingtheharbourareBasFortStNicolas Offlinemap Googlemap onthesouthsideand,acrossthewater,FortStJean Offlinemap Googlemap ,foundedinthe13thcenturybytheKnightsHospitallerofStJohnofJerusalem.Here,theMusedesCivilisationsdelEuropeet delaMditerrane Offlinemap Googlemap (MuCEMMuseumofEuropean&MediterraneanCivilisations 0496138090 www.mucem.org 1pm7pmWed,Thu&Sat)willopenabrandnew40,000sqmetrestateoftheartmuseumin2013. Theportssouthernquayhastheatresandbars,andrestaurantsandcafesbuzzuntiltheweehoursablockeastonplaceThiarsandcours HonordEstiennedOrves.

AbbayeStVictor Offlinemap Googlemap (3ruedelAbbaye

9am7pm

VieuxPort)isthebirthplaceofChristianityinMarseille,built 0491136136

ona3rdcenturyBCGreeknecropolis.NearbyMuseduSanton Offlinemap Googlemap (

www.santonsmarcelcarbonel.com49rueNeuveSteCatherineadmissionfree 10am12.30pm&26.30pmTueSat)anditsneighbouring boutiqueAtelierduSanton Offlinemap Googlemap (47rueNeuveSteCatherine)arehometohandcraftedtinykilnfiredfigurescalled santons(fromsantoninProvenal,meaninglittlesaint).ThecustomofcreatinganativityscenewithfigurinesdatesfromtheAvignonpapacyof JohnXII(131934). Perchedatthepeninsulasedge,theJardinduPharo Offlinemap Googlemap isaperfectpicnicspotandisidealforwatchingsunsets.

LePanier HISTORICQUARTER
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( VieuxPort)FromtheVieuxPort,hikenorthuptothishistorywovenquarter,dubbedMarseillesMontmartre,asmuchforitsslopingstreets asitsartsyambience.InGreekMassilia,itwasthesiteoftheagora(marketplace),henceitsname,whichmeansthebasket.DuringWWII,the quarterwasdynamitedandrebuilt.Todayitsamishmashoflaneshidingartisanshops,ateliers(workshops)andterracedhouses. ItscentrepieceisCentredelaVieilleCharit Offlinemap Googlemap (2ruedelaCharit,2e Joliette),andnearbyCathdraledela Major Offlinemap Googlemap standsguardbetweentheoldandnewportswithastripyfaademadeoflocalCassisstoneandgreen Florentinemarble.

BasiliqueNotreDamedelaGarde CHURCH
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(MontedelaBonneMre 7am8pmAprSep,to7pmOctMar)EverywhereyougoinMarseille,youseetheopulent,domed19thcentury RomanoByzantinebasilicaoccupyingMarseilleshighestpoint,LaGarde(162m).Builtbetween1853and1864,itisornamentedwithcoloured marble,muralsdepictingthesafepassageofsailingvesselsandsuperblyrestoredmosaics.Thehilltopgives360degreepanoramasofthecitys seaofterracottaroofsbelow. Thechurchsbelltoweriscrownedbya9.7mtallgildedstatueoftheVirginMaryona12mhighpedestal.Bulletmarksandshrapnelscarson thenorthernfaadeevidencethefiercefightingofMarseillesBattleofLiberation(15to25August1944).Itsa1kmwalkfromtheVieuxPort,or takebus60orthetouristtrain.

MARSEILLEIN
TwoDays StartattheVieuxPortwithbreakfastatLaCaravelleandawatersidestrolltothebrandnewMusedesCivilisationsdelEuropeetdela Mditerrane.LunchatLaPassarellethenhikeuptotheBasiliqueNotreDamedelaGardeorexploreLePanier.Dineatnearby,excellentLeCaf despices. Ondaytwo,catchaboattorevelinMonteCristointriguesatChteaudIf.Oncebackonland,walkorcycletopostcardprettyVallondesAuffesand goforbouillabaissefordinner. FourDays OrganiseadaytriptothewonderfulParcNationaldesCalanques.Ifyourekeentohaveanactiveday,planawalkandarestorativelunchatCalanque deSormiou.Otherwise,bookoneofthesceniccruises. Ondayfour,gotoAixenProvenceforthedaytoretracethestepsofgeniuspainterPaulCzanneandpartakeinaspotofshoppinginthe atmospherictown.StayfordinnerattheoutstandingRestaurantPierreReboul.

PalaisdeLongchamp PALACE,PARK
(LongchampPalacebdPhilippon CinqAvenuesLongchamp Longchamp)ThecolonnadedPalaisdeLongchampandits spectacularfountainswereconstructedinthe1860s,inparttodisguiseawatertowerattheterminusofanaqueductfromtheRiverDurance.The northernwinghousesMarseillesoldestmuseum,theMusedesBeauxArts,undergoingrenovationsatresearchtimeandslatedtoreopenin 2013.Theshadedparkisoneofthecentresfewgreenspaces,popularwithlocalfamilies.

LaFricheLaBelledeMai CULTURALCENTRE
( 0495049504www.lafriche.org41rueJobin 49stopJobin)Thesiteofaformersugarrefiningplantandsubsequenttobaccofactory, thetheatre,artistsworkshops,cinemastudios,radiostations,multimediadisplays,alfrescoinstallationart,skateboardrampsandelectro/world musicpartiesatLaFrichelaBelledeMaiarethevoiceofcontemporaryMarseille.Itunderwentanenormousrenovationin2012. Checkitsprogramonline,viewartintheGaleriedelaFricheBelledeMai(admissionfree 37pmTueSat)orlunchinitscavernous, stylishlyindustrialrestaurantLesGrandesTablesdelaFriche( 0495049585www.lesgrandestables.com12rueFranoisSimonmains 10 8.30am8pmMonFri).

LUnitdHabitation HISTORICBUILDING
(LaCitRadieuse 0491167800280bdMichelet 83or21stopLeCorbusier)VisionaryinternationalstylearchitectLeCorbusier redefinedurbanlivingin1952withthecompletionofhisvertical337apartmentgardencityalsoknownasLaCitRadieuse(TheRadiantCity). Alongitsdarkenedhallways,primarycoloureddownlightscreateaglowingtunnelleadingtoaminisupermarket,anarchitecturalbookshop,Htel LeCorbusier( 0491167800www.hotellecorbusier.com280bdMicheletr70,apt105139 83or21stopLeCorbusier),a restaurantandarooftopterrace. Architecturebuffscanbookaguidedtourofaprivateapartmentatthetouristoffice.

ALONGTHECOAST
MesmerisingviewsofanotherMarseilleunfoldalongcornichePrsidentJohnFKennedy,thecoastalroadthatcruisessouthtosmall,sandy, beachvolleyballbusyPlagedesCatalansandthefishingcoveVallondesAuffes,crammedwithcolourfulfishingboats. Furthersouth,thevastPradobeachesaremarkedbyJulesCantinis1903marblereplicaofMichelangelosDavid.Thebeaches,allgold sand,werecreatedfrombackfillfromtheexcavationsforMarseillesmetro,andhostaworldrenownedskatepark.

ChteaudIf ISLAND,CASTLE
(www.if.monumentsnationaux.fradult/child5/free 9.30am6.30pmMaySep,to4.45pmTueSunOctApr)ImmortalisedinAlexandre Dumasclassic1844novelLeComtedeMonteCristo(TheCountofMonteCristo),16thcenturyfortressturnedprisonChteaudIfsitsonthe30 sqkmislandledIf,3.5kmwestoftheVieuxPort.Politicalprisonerswereincarceratedhere,alongwithhundredsofProtestants,the RevolutionaryheroMirabeauandtheCommunardsof1871. FrioulIfExpress(www.frioulifexpress.com1quaidesBelges)boatsleaveforChteaudIf(10return,20minutes)fromtheVieuxPort. Thereareover15dailydeparturesinsummer,fewerinwinter.

lesduFrioul ISLANDS
AfewhundredmetreswestofledIfarethelesduFrioul,thebarrendykelinkedwhitelimestoneislandsofRatonneauandPomgues.Seabirds andrareplantsthriveonthesetinyislands(eachabout2.5kmlong,totalling200hectares).Ratonneauhasthreebeaches.BoatstoChteaudIf alsoservethelesduFrioul(10return,35minutes).

Tours
LeGrandTour BUSTOUR
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( 0491910582www.marseillelegrandtour.comadult/child18/9 10am7pm)Feelthewindinyourhairasyoutravelbetweenkeysights andmuseumsaboardahoponhopoffopentoppedbus.Ticketsaresoldatthetouristofficeoronboard,andincludeafivelanguage audioguide.

TouristTrain TRAINTOUR
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( 0491252469www.petittrainmarseille.comadult/child7/4 10am12.30pm&26pm VieuxPort)Choosefromtwocircularroutes: toBasiliqueNotreDamedelaGarde(yearround)andLePanier(ApriltomidNovember).Tourslast65minutesanddepartevery30minutes, lessofteninwinter.

GuidedTour WALKINGTOUR
(www.resamarseille.comtour7 2pmSat VieuxPort)Leavesfromthetouristoffice(Clickhere).

MarseilleProvenceGreeters WALKINGTOUR
(www.marseilleprovencegreeters.com)Freewalkingtoursbylocalsadvancewebsiteregistrationrequired.

CroisiresMarseilleCalanques BOATTOUR
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(www.croisieresmarseillecalanques.com74quaiduPort)RunstwohourreturntripsfromtheVieuxPorttakinginsixcalanques (adult/child/familycosts22/7/68)threehourreturntripspast12calanquestoCassis(adult/child/family28/21/85)and1hourtripsaroundthe BaiedeMarseille(adult10).

Festivals&Events
CarnavaldeMarseille STREETCARNIVAL
( Mar)Madstreetcarnivalwithdecoratedfloats.

FiestadesSuds MUSICFESTIVAL
(www.dockdessuds.org Mar)WorldmusicatDockdesSuds.

BeachVolleyballWorld Championships SPORTS

( Jul)HostedbyPlageduPrado.

FestivaldeMarseille PERFORMINGARTS
(www.festivaldemarseille.com Jul)Threeweeksofinternationaldance,theatre,musicandart.

FiveContinentsJazzFestival MUSICFESTIVAL
(www.festivaljazzcinqcontinents.com Jul)Acidjazz,funkandfolkmusic.

FoireauxSantonniers CHRISTMAS

Dec)Since1803traditionalsanton(figurine)makershaveflockedtoMarseilleforthisfair.

Sleeping
ThebestroomsinMarseillegetsnaggedfastreserveahead.TheresalsoahotelinLeCorbusiersLUnitdHabitation(Clickhere).

CasaHonor B&B
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( 0496110162www.casahonore.com123rueSaintedinclbreakfast150200 VieuxPort)LosAngelesmeetsMarseilleat thisfourroommaisondhte,builtaroundacentralcourtyardwithalappoolshadedbybananatrees.Thefashionforwardstylereflectsthe ownersloveforcontemporaryinteriordesign(shehasashopdowntheblock),usingdisparateelementslikeblackwickerandtheoccasionalcow skull,whichcometogetherinonesexypackage.Onecomplaint:somebathroomsarepartitionedbycurtains,notdoors.

HtelVertigo HOSTEL
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( 0491910711www.hotelvertigo.fr42ruedesPetitesMariesdm/d25/60 GareStCharles)Thissnappyboutiquehostelkisses goodbyetododgybunksandhospitallikedecor.Hereitshellotovintageposters,designerchromekitchen,groovycommunalspacesandpolite multilingualstaff.Doubleroomsareparticularlygood,somewithaprivateterrace.Nocurfew(orlift,alas).Asecond,alldormfacilityiscloserto theVieuxPort.

LeRyad BOUTIQUEHOTEL
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( 0491477454www.leryad.fr16rueSnacdeMeilhans80105,d95125,family170 Noailles, CanebireGaribaldi)With highceilings,archedalcoves,warmcoloursandminimalistdecor,superstylishLeRyaddrawssumptuousinfluencefromMorocco.Beautiful bathrooms,gardenviewroomsandgreatservicemakeupforthesometimessketchyneighbourhood.Despitethefourstoreywalkup,itsworth bookingthetopfloorroomforitstinyrooftopterrace.

HtelLaRsidencedu VieuxPort DESIGNHOTEL

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( 0491919122www.hotelmarseille.com18quaiduPortd125200,apt298 VieuxPort)Marseillestopviewhotelgota makeoverin2010invaguelyTheJetsonsmeetsMondrianstyle,withswoopbackedfurnitureandboldprimarycolours.Everyroomlookssharp, andportsideroomshavebalconieswithknockoutviewsoftheoldportandNotreDame.

MamaShelter DESIGNHOTEL
( 0143484848www.mamashelter.com64ruedelaLoubired99139,q159,ste209 NotreDameduMonteCours Julien)ThebrainchildofSergeTrigano,sonofGilbert(ClubMedcreator),thisaffordablechicnewkidontheblockopenedwithabangin2012.It sportsdesignbyPhilippeStarck,niftyextraslikeKiehlsbathroomproductsandfreeinroommovies.Theroomsarewheelchairaccessibleand parkingcosts17perday.

ARISINGCULTURALSTAR
In2013,Marseille,AixenProvenceandArleswillbeEuropeanCapitalofCulture(www.mp2013.fr).Asaresult,therehavebeenanumberofmakeovers oflocalinstitutionsinMarseillesuchasLaFricheLaBelledeMai(Clickhere)andPalaisdeLongchamp(Clickhere)spectacularfacilitieswerealso underconstructionatthetimeofwritingforMusedesCivilisationsdelEuropeetdelaMditerrane(Clickhere)andFondsRgionaldArt Contemporain Offlinemap Googlemap (FRAC 0491912755www.fracpaca.org20bddeDunkerque Joliette),bothscheduledtoopenin 2013.PerformingartsarealsogearingupforayearofextravaganzastheartsorganizationMarseilleExpos(www.marseilleexpos.com)distributesan excellentmapofhotgalleriesandsponsorsthefestivalPrintempsdelArtContemporaineachMay.Itswebsitelistswhatson.

SofitelMarseilleVieuxPort LUXURYHOTEL
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( 0491155955www.sofitelmarseillevieuxport.com36bdCharlesLivondfrom215 83stopFortStNicolas)Marseilles topfullservicehotelcommandsspectacularviewsoftheseaandtheoldport.Roomshaveallrequisitebellsandwhistles,fromiPoddocksto featherbedssomehavedoublesizesoakingtubs.Greatspa.

HtelBelleVue HOTEL
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( 0496170540www.hotelbellevuemarseille.fr34quaiduPortd84135 VieuxPort)Roomsatthisoldfashionedhotelare tastefullydecoratedwithmidbudgetsimplicity,buthavemilliondollarportsideviews.Bathroomshaveoccasionalmildewspotsandtheresnolift, butLaCaravelle(Clickhere),oneofMarseillescoolestcafebars,isinside.

HtelEscaleOceania HOTEL
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0491906161www.oceaniahotels.com5LaCanebired91157

VieuxPort)Thoughroomsrunsmall(yourebuyingthe

excellentVieuxPortlocation),theyrefreshandclean.Spotlessbathroomshavebigwalkinshowers.RoomsontheCanebiresidesportwrought ironportviewbalconies.

HtelSaintFerrol HOTEL
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( 0491331221www.hotelsaintferreol.com19ruePisanond99120 VieuxPort)Onthecornerofthecitysbustling pedestrianisedstreet,thissimplehotelhasindividuallydecoratedrooms,manyinspiredbyartistslikeVanGoghandCzanne,withspotless bathroomsandexceptionalservice.

VillaMonticelli B&B
( 0491221520www.villamonticelli.com96rueduCommandantRollanddinclbreakfast105 83or19stopPradoStGiniez, RondPointduPrado)ColetteandJeanarepassionateabouttheircityandthefiveexquisitechambredhteroomsintheirstunningvillaare worththeslightlyoutercitylocation.Breakfastofhomemadeeverythingisservedonthepanoramicviewterrace.

HtelLeRichelieu HOTEL
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( 0491310192www.lerichelieumarseille.com52cornichePrsidentJohnFKennedyd5388,tr91110 83)An economicalseasidechoicewithoddshapedrooms,buttheownerskeepthemlookingfresh.Thebestfacethesea,lendingabeachhousefeel. Theresanadjacentbeachandsharedwaterviewterrace,butnolift.

HtelEdmondRostand BOUTIQUEHOTEL
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( 0491377495www.hoteledmondrostand.com31rueDragons&d86,tr127 EstranginPrfecture)Antiqueshops surroundthisgoodvaluehotelintheelegantQuartierdesAntiquaires.Thoughits16stylishroomsareabitworn,someoverlookatinyprivate garden,othersrooftopsandBasiliqueNotreDamedelaGarde.

Eating
TheVieuxPortispackedwithrestaurants,butchoosecarefullytoavoidtouristtraps.ThecoursJulienandsurroundingstreetshaveworldcuisine.

LeCafdespices MODERNFRENCH
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( 0491912269www.cafedesepices.com4rueduLacydon3courselunch/dinnermenu25/40 lunchTueSat,dinnerThuFri VieuxPort)OneofMarseillesbestyoungchefs,ArnauddeGrammont,infuseshiscookingwithapanoplyofflavoursthinksquidinkspaghetti withsesameandperfectlycookedscallops,ortenderroastedpotatoeswithhintsofcorianderandcitrus,toppedbythecatchoftheday.The presentationisimpeccable,thedecorisplayful,thestaffarefriendly,andtheplacefillsupreliably.Dontunderestimatethedessertseither. Saturdaylunchisparticularlyfamilyfriendlyonthesunnyterraceleadingontoanolivetreelinedpedestrianisedsquare.Reservationsessential.

LaCantinetta ITALIAN
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 049148104824coursJulienmains919 lunch&dinnerTueSat NotreDameduMontCoursJulien)Thetoptableatcours Julienservesperfectlyaldentehousemadepasta,paperthinprosciutto,marinatedvegetables,bresaola(airdriedbeef)andrisotto.Tablesin theconvivialdiningroomarecheekbyjowl,andeveryoneseemstoknoweachother,orescapetothesundappled,tiledpatiogarden.Ifyoure lucky,thegregariouschefowner,PierreAntoineDenis,willregaleyouwiththedaysspecials.Reservationsessential.

BOUILLABAISSE
Originallycookedbyfishersfromthescrapsoftheircatch,bouillabaisseisMarseillesclassicsignaturedish.Truebouillabaisseincludesatleastfour differentkindsoffish,sometimesshellfish,whichiswhyitsservedtoaminimumoftwopeople.Donttrusttouristtraprestaurantsthatpromisecheap bouillabaisse.TherealMcCoycostsabout55perpersonandshouldbereserved48hoursahead,enoughtimetoprocurethecorrectingredients.Its servedintwoparts:thebroth(soupedepoisson),richwithtomato,saffronandfennelandthecookedfish,debonedtablesideandpresentedonaplatter. Onthesidearecroutonsandrouille(abreadthickenedgarlic,chilliandpeppermayonnaise)andgratedcheese,usuallyGruyre.Spreadrouilleonthe crouton,topwithcheese,andfloatitinthesoup.Bepreparedforahugemealandtonsofgarlic. Themostreliablyconsistentspotsforrealbouillabaisseincludethefollowing: LeRhul( 0491520177www.lerhul.fr269cornichePrsidentJohnFKennedy50 kitschy):a1940sseasidehotelwithMediterraneanviews. LEpuisette Offlinemap Googlemap ( 83)Thislongstandingclassichasatmosphere(however TueSat 83)Theswankest(byfar)

0491521782www.lepuisette.comVallondesAuffes60

hasaMichelinstarandknockoutwaterlevelviewsfromanelegantlyausterediningroom.Firstcoursescost34to45anddesserts20,thoughyoull likelynothaveroom. RestaurantMichel Offlinemap Googlemap (ChezMichel 0491523063http://restaurantmichel13.fr6ruedesCatalans60 dinner

nightly)Topssince1946.Alas,theoverlybrightdiningroomlacksromance.

LaPartdesAnges BISTRO
Offlinemap Googlemap

(33rueSaintemains15

lunchMonSat,dinnerdaily)NoaddressbuzzeswithMarseilleship,buoyantcrowdmorethanthisfabulousall

rounderwinebistro,namedaftertheamountofalcoholthatevaporatesthroughabarrelduringwineorwhiskyfermentation:theangelsshare. Tablescantbereservedtellthebartendersyouwanttoeatandtakeyourpickofdozensofwinestotrybytheglass.

CafPopulaire NEOBISTRO
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 049102539610rueParadismains1416 lunch&dinnerTueSat EstranginPrfecture)Vintagetablesandchairs,oldbooks ontheshelvesandafinecollectionofglasssodabottlesalladdtotheretroairofthis1950sstyledjazzcomptoir(counter).Plumpforastoolatthe zincbarorloungeatatablewithaviewofthefabulousopenkitchen,wheresimpledailyspecialslikegambaslaplancha(friedprawnsserved onahotplate)orbeetrootandcoriandersaladarecookedup.

LeComptoirDugommier BISTRO
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 0491622121www.comptoirdugommier.fr14bdDugommiermains1112,3coursemenuwithdrink20 7.30am3.30pmMon Wed,7.30am1amThu&Fri Noailles, CanebireGaribaldi)Tinmoulding,woodenfloorsandvintagesignsmakeacosyescapefromthe busystreetoutside.TheplacegetspackedforitsdownhomeFrenchfare,likeandouillettesausagestewedwithartichokes.

LesPiedsdanslePlat MODERNFRENCH
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 04914874152ruePastoretlunch/dinnermenus18/35 lunch&dinnerTueSat NotreDameduMontCoursJulien)Slipinto thisintimate,cheeryrestaurantthroughasmalldoorsurroundedbygraffiti.ThechefincorporatesFrenchBasqueandMoroccaninfluencesinhis creative,marketfreshcuisine.Reservationsessential.

LeGraindeSel MODERNFRENCH
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 049154473039ruedelaPaixMarcelPaullunchmenu16,mains1722 lunchTueSat,dinnerFri&Sat VieuxPort)Locals packthisslenderbistroforinventivetreatslikegnocchiwithshellfishandfennelordecadentdessertslikecrmebrlewithrum,chestnutsand orange.Reservationsessential.

GAY&LESBIANVENUES
Thewebsitewww.gaymapmarseille.comhasgeneralcoverageofMarseillesandAixenProvencesgaylife.Marseillessmallsceneisinconstantflux,and onlyconvergesonweekends.Gaynightsareheldatvariousbars,whicharegenerallystraightormixedonothernights. CaffNoir Offlinemap Googlemap (3rueMoustier dOrves VieuxPort)andPolikarpov Offlinemap Googlemap (24coursHonordEstienne

VieuxPort)arereliableaddressesforayoung,mixed,harddrinkingcrowd.SkipCargo,CaffNoirsadjoiningsauna,forXYLeClub Offlinemap Googlemap (www.xyleclub.com66rueMontgrand EstranginPrfecture),whichonlygetsbusySundayafternoonssometimesit

throwsmixedpartiesfriendlydoorstaffareanexcellentresourceforwhatshappening.CatchascatchcanbarLeTrash(www.trashbar.com28ruedu Berceau FriWed Baille)isasitsnamesuggests.

LaCasertane ITALIAN,DELICATESSEN
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 049154985171rueFrancisDavsopastas1112 lunchMonSat,deli9am3pmMon,9am7.30pmTueSat VieuxPort)Lunch onamindbogglingarrayofItaliandelimeatsandsalads,orchoosefromdailyspecials,oftenwithhomemadepastas.Convivialstaffanda bustlingflowofclientelemakeforlivelymeals.

LaPassarelle PROVENAL
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 0491330327www.restaurantlapassarelle.fr52rueduPlanFourmiguiermains17 lunchTueSat,dinnerThuSat VieuxPort) Retrovintagetablesandchairssitbeneathlimegreenparasolsonaterracebetweenveggieandstrawberrybeds.Everythinggrowinginthe walledgardengoesintosomethingonPhilippeandPatriciaspredominantlyorganicmenu,andotherproductsarestrictlylocal.

LesArcenaulx TRADITIONALFRENCH
Offlinemap Googlemap

0491548538www.lesarcenaulx.com27coursHonordEstiennedOrveslunchmenu20,mains1728 lunch&dinnerMonSat VieuxPort)DineingrandiosestyleinthiscavernousformerLouisXIVwarehousewithantiquarianandcontemporarybookshoporvisitthe neighbouringsalondeth(tearoom)forsavourytarts,cakesandicecream.

PizzariaCheztienne MARSEILLAIS
Offlinemap Googlemap

(43ruedeLorettemains1215 lunch&dinnerMonSat Colbert)ThisoldMarseillaishaunthasthebestpizzaintown,aswellas succulentpavdeboeuf(beefsteak)andscrumptioussupionsfrits(panfriedsquidwithgarlicandparsley).Sinceitsaconvivialmeetingpoint fortheentireneighbourhood,popinbeforehandtoreserve(theresnophone).Nocreditcards.

JardindesVestiges ARMENIAN,MEDITERRANEAN
Offlinemap Googlemap

(15ruedelaReinelisabethmains713

9am6pmMonSat

VieuxPort)AsolidbudgetchoicedrawsonArmenian,Greekand

Lebanesecuisineindisheslikekebabs,stuffedeggplant,moussakaandtabouli.Idealfortogosandwiches(4to6).

Drinking
CafesandbarssurroundtheVieuxPort.StudentsandartistscongregatenearcoursJulienanditssurroundingstreets.Sundaysaredead.

LaCaravelle BAR
Offlinemap Googlemap

(34quaiduPort 7am2am VieuxPort)Lookupormissthisstandoutupstairshideaway,styledwithrichwoodandleather,azincbarand yellowingmurals.Ifitssunny,snagacovetedspotontheportsideterrace.OnFridays,thereslivejazzfrom9pmtomidnight.

LesBuvards WINEBAR
Offlinemap Googlemap

049190699834GrandRue

10am1am

VieuxPort,

SadiCarnot)Grandselectionofnaturalwinesandmunchies.

LongchampPalace CAFE
Offlinemap Googlemap

049150761322bdLongchamp

MonSatSepJul

RformsCanebire)Artsybustlingbistroandlazycoffeeshop.

LeBardelaMarine BAR
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 049154954215quaideRiveNeuve 7am1am institution,whichdrawsfolksfromeverywalkoflife.

VieuxPort)MarcelPagnolfilmedthecardpartyscenesinMariusatthisMarseille

AuPetitNice CAFE,BAR
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 049148430428placeJeanJaurs 10am2am NotreDameduMontCoursJulien)Cheapandcheerful:2beersinahappening courtyardcafewithayouthful,diversecrowd.(NB:thisisnotthehotelofthesamename.)

SHOPPINGLEPANIER
LePanier(Clickhere)ishometomanyofthecitysartisansandcraftspeople,andisbyfarthemostfunplaceinthecityforstockingupongifts.Pickup gorgeousAOC(AppellationdOrigineContrle)Provenaloliveoils,andjarsoftapenadeandaoliatPlaceauxHuiles Offlinemap Googlemap ( www.placeauxhuiles.com2placeDaviel daily SadiCarnot).Brilliantlyscentedolivesoaps,somewithchocolateandtomatoleaf,andlipsmacking preservesfill72%Ptanque Offlinemap Googlemap (10rueduPetitPuits).Nearbyaclutchofceramicateliershaveshopsattachedwanderinand saybonjour.AtthebottomofLePanier,rightontheVieuxPortisLaMaisonduPastis Offlinemap Googlemap (108quaiduPort),whereyoullbe abletosampleover90varietiesofthisaniseedflavouredaperitif.

Entertainment
CulturaleventsarecoveredinLHebdo(1.20),availablearoundtown,orwww.marseillebynight.comandwww.journalventilo.fr.Ticketsaresoldat billetteries(ticketcounters),includingEspaceCulture Offlinemap Googlemap ( 0496110460http://espaceculture.net42LaCanebire VieuxPort),Fnac Offlinemap Googlemap (CentreBourseshoppingcentre VieuxPort)andthetouristoffice.Alternativetheatreand eventsforkidsareheldinatrioofvenuesonPassagedesArts.

Nightclubs&LiveMusic EspaceJulien LIVEMUSIC

Offlinemap Googlemap

( 0491243410www.espacejulien.com39coursJulien NotreDameduMontCoursJulien)Rock,oprock,alternativetheatre,reggae, hiphop,Afrogrooveandothercuttingedgeentertainmentallappearonthebillthewebsitelistsgigs.

PelleMle JAZZ
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 04915485268placeauxHuilesadmission2 jazzatthislivelyportsidebistro.

6pm1am,closedSunOctApr

VieuxPort)A30somethingcrowdjivestogood

LIntermdiaire NIGHTCLUB
Offlinemap Googlemap

(63placeJeanJaurs 7pm2am NotreDameduMontCoursJulien)Thisgrungyvenuewithgraffitiedwallsisoneofthebestforlive bandsorDJs(usuallytechnooralternative).

LaNoche NIGHTCLUB
Offlinemap Googlemap

(40ruePlanFourmiguier

Fri&Sat

VieuxPort)Downstairs,bandsplayupstairs,DJsspineverythingfromelectrotosalsa.

LeTrolleybus NIGHTCLUB
Offlinemap Googlemap

049154304524quaideRiveNeuve

WedSat

VieuxPort)Shakeittotechno,funkandindieatthistunnellikeharboursideclub.

AuSondesGuitars NIGHTCLUB
Offlinemap Googlemap

(18rueCorneille ThuSun VieuxPort)PopularwithCorsicanlocals,thissmallclubhaslimiteddancing,lotsofdrinkingand,occasionally, aCorsicansinger.Looksharptogetin.

DANGERS&ANNOYANCES
Marseilleisntahotbedofviolentcrime,butpettycrimesandmuggingsarecommonplace.Playitcool.Dontgetvisiblydrunkandstumblehomealoneat 4amyoumayaswellwearatarget.Thetouristofficeadviceistotaketaxisatnight. Ifyourenervous,avoidtheBelsuncearea(southwestofthetrainstation,boundedbyLaCanebire,coursBelsunceandruedAix,rueBernardduBois andbddAthnes).WalkingtheCanebireisannoying,butgenerallynotdangerousexpecttoencounterkidspeddlinghash. Solowomentravellersshouldbewarnedthattheywillgetcatcallsfrompassingstrangers.

Sport OlympiquedeMarseille FOOTBALL

MarseillescherishedfootballteamplaysatStadeVlodrome(3bdMichelet1hrguidedstadiumtoursinJul&Aug5 RondPointdu Prado).BuyticketsatOMsBoutiqueOfficielle( 049133200144LaCanebire 10am7pmMonSat Noailles, Canebire Garibaldi)foraslittleas20.

Information
CanebireChange(39LaCanebire HpitaldelaTimone( PrfecturedePolice( TouristOffice( 8am6pmMonFri,8.30amnoon&24.30pmSat 24hr VieuxPort) 0491386000264rueStPierre LaTimone)About1kmsoutheastofplaceJeanJaurs. EstranginPrfecture) 9am7pmMonSat,10am5pmSun VieuxPort)

0491398000placedelaPrfecture

0491138900www.marseilletourisme.com4LaCanebire

GettingThere&Away
AIRAroportMarseilleProvence(www.marseille.aeroport.fr)AlsocalledAroportMarseilleMarignaneitislocated25kmnorthwestof MarseilleinMarignane. BOATThepassengerferryterminal(www.marseilleport.fr Joliette)is250msouthofplacedelaJoliette(1er).SNCM( 0891701801 www.sncm.fr61bddesDames Joliette)hasservicestoCorsica,SardiniaandNorthAfrica. BUSThebusstation(www.lepilote.com3rueHonnorat GareStCharlesSNCF)isatthebackofthetrainstation.Purchaseticketsfromthe informationdeskinsidethetrainstationorfromthedriver.Servicestosomedestinations,includingCassis,usethestoponplaceCastellane, southofthecentre.Eurolines(www.eurolines.com3allesLonGambetta)hasinternationalservices. CARAvis( Europcar( 0820611636www.avis.com)Atthetrainstation. 0825358358www.europcar.com) GareStCharlesSNCF)isservedbybothmetro

TRAINGareStCharles( information9am8pmMonSat,tickets5.15am10pmdaily lines.Theleftluggageoffice(from3.50 7.30am10pm)isnexttoplatformA.

Intown,buyticketsattheSNCFBoutiqueinsidetheCentreBourseshoppingcentre Offlinemap Googlemap . FromMarseille,trains,includingTGVs,gotodestinationsalloverFranceandEurope,includingthefollowing,whichallrunatleasthalfadozen timesaday: Avignon24,35minutes Lyon50,1hours Nice35,2hours ParisGaredeLyon103,threehours

GettingAround
FortransportinformationinEnglish:www.lepilote.com. TO/FROMTHEAIRPORTShuttlebuses( Marseille0491505934,airport0442143127www.lepilote.com)linktheairportwith Marseillestrainstation(8,25minutes,every20minutesfrom4.30amto11.30pm). TherearedirecttrainservicestoMarseille,Arles,AvignonandOrangefromtheAroportMarseilleProvenceVitrollesstation(linkedtothe airportterminalbyafreeshuttle).

BICYCLELeVlo(www.levelompm.fr)Pickupordropoffabikefrom100plusstationsacrossthecity.Freefirst30minutes,1forthenext30, andthen1perhourthereafter.CreditcardrequiredtoregisterinstructionsinFrench.StationsdotthecentreandthecornichetoPointeRouge. FERRYCrossPortFerry( 8am12.30pm&15pm)Runsbetweenthetownhall(northside)andplaceauxHuiles(southside)oftheport. PUBLICTRANSPORTMarseillehastwometrolines(Mtro1andMtro2),twotramlines(yellowandgreen)andanextensivebusnetwork,run bytheRgiedesTransportsMarseillais(RTM). Bus,metroortramtickets(1.50)canbeusedonallpublictransportationforonehouraftertheyvebeentimestamped.ATranspassfor one/three/sevendayscosts5/10.50/12. Busservicesstoparound9.30pm,whennightbusesoperateuntil12.30am.MoststartinfrontoftheEspaceInfosRTM( 0491919210 www.rtm.fr6ruedesFabres 8.30am6pmMonFri,9am12.30pm&25.30pmSat VieuxPort),whereyoucanobtaininformation,agreat transportmapandtickets.Nightshuttles( 0627067123www.navettelive.blogspot.comannualmembership15,ridesfree 11.45pm 4.30am)operateforpeople18to30yearsold. Themetrorunsfrom5amto10.30pmMondaytoThursday,anduntil12.30amfromFridaytoSunday. Tramsrun5amto1amdaily. TAXITaxiRadioMarseille( 0491022020)

AixenProvence
POP141,895

AixenProvenceistoProvencewhattheLeftBankistoParis:anenclaveofbourgeoisbohemianchic.ItshardtobelieveAix(pronouncedex) isjust25kmfromchaotic,exoticMarseille,anditsnosurprisethetworemainatodds.Some30,000studentsfromtheUniversitdeProvence AixMarseille,manyfromoverseas,setthemoodonthestreet:bars,cafesandaffordablerestaurants.Thecityisrichinculture(twoofAixmost famoussonsarePaulCzanneandmileZola)andohsorespectable,withplanetreeshadedboulevardsandfashionableboutiques.Allthis classcomesataprice:AixismoreexpensivethanotherProvenaltowns.

AIXCELLENT
TheAixCityPass(15),validfivedays,includesaguidedwalkingtour,admissiontotheAtelierPaulCzanne,JasdeBouffanandMuseGranet,anda tripontheminitramtheCzannePass(12)covershisthreemainsights.Buythematthetouristoffice,orthetwoCzannesights.

Sights&Activities
Art,cultureandarchitectureaboundinAix.Astrollersparadise,thehighlightisthemostlypedestrianoldcity,VieilAix Offlinemap Googlemap . SouthofcoursMirabeau,QuartierMazarin Offlinemap Googlemap waslaidoutinthe17thcentury,andishometosomeofAixfinest buildings.PlacedesQuatreDauphins Offlinemap Googlemap ,withitsfishspoutingfountain(1667),isparticularlyenchanting.Furthersouth stillisthepeacefulParcJourdan Offlinemap Googlemap ,hometothetownsBoulodromeMunicipal Offlinemap Googlemap ,where localsgatherbeneathplanetreestoplayptanque.

AixenProvence
TopSights
CoursMirabeau B4 MuseGranet D4 VieilAix C2

Sights
1 CathdraleStSauveur B1 2 Galeried'ArtduConseilGnral desBouchesduRhne B3 3 ParcJourdan C5 4 PlacedesQuatreDauphins C4 5 QuartierMazarin C4

Activities,Courses&Tours
6 BoulodromeMunicipal C5 7 MiniTram B4 8 ThermesSextius A2

Sleeping
9 HtelCardinal D4 10 HtelCzanne B5 11 HteldesAugustins B3 12 HtellesQuatreDauphins C4 13 HtelPaul B1 14 HtelSaintChristophe B4 15 LeManoir A3 16 L'picerie A2

Eating
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 Amphitryon B3 Charlotte A3 ChezFraud C2 JacquouLeCroquant B3 LaMado C3 LeFormal B3 LePetitVerdot A3 LePoivred'ne B2 ProduceMarket B2 RestaurantPierreReboul C3

Drinking
27 LeMedBoy A2 28 LesDeuxGarons C3

Entertainment
29 CinMazarin B4 30 CinmaRenoir C4

31 LeCzanne B4 32 LeMistral C4

Shopping
33 34 35 36 37 BookinBar C4 CaveduFlibrige B2 FleaMarket C3 PlaceauxHuiles D4 RoyRen B2

CoursMirabeau HISTORICQUARTER
Offlinemap Googlemap

NoavenuebetterepitomisesProvencesmostgracefulcitythanfountainstuddedcoursMirabeau,sprinkledwithelegantRenaissancehtels particuliers(privatemansions)andcrownedwithasummertimeroofofleafyplanetrees.NamedaftertherevolutionaryheroComtedeMirabeau, itwaslaidoutinthe1640s.CzanneandZolahungoutatLesDeuxGarons Offlinemap Googlemap (53coursMirabeau 7am2am), oneofaclutchofcafes.Itbuzzeswithpeoplewatchers. AmongthemostimpressivehtelsparticuliersisHteldEspargnet(1647)atNo38,nowhometotheuniversityseconomicsdepartment. PhotographyandcontemporaryartgetanairinginsideHteldeCastillon,nowtheGaleriedArtduConseilGnraldesBouchesdu Rhne Offlinemap Googlemap ( 041331507021biscoursMirabeauadmissionfree 9.30am1pm&26pmMonSat).

MuseGranet ARTMUSEUM
Offlinemap Googlemap

(www.museegranetaixenprovence.frplaceStJeandeMalteadult/child4/free 11am7pmTueSun)Housedina17thcenturyprioryofthe KnightsofMalta,thisexceptionalmuseumisnamedaftertheProvenalpainterFranoisMariusGranet(17751849),whodonatedalarge numberofworks.Itscollectionsinclude16thto20thcenturyItalian,FlemishandFrenchworks.Modernartreadslikeawhoswho:Picasso, Lger,Matisse,Monet,KleeandVanGogh,amongothersincludingthemuseumsprideandjoy:nineCzanneworks.Ticketsaresolduntilone hourbeforeclosing.

CathdraleStSauveur CHURCH
Offlinemap Googlemap

(ruedelaRoque 8amnoon&26pm)Builtbetween1285and1350inapotpourriofstyles,thiscathedralincludesaRomanesque12th centurynaveinitssouthernaisle,chapelsfromthe14thand15thcenturiesanda5thcenturysarcophagusintheapse.Morerecentadditions includethe18thcenturygiltBaroqueorgan.AcousticsmakeGregorianchants(4.30pmSunday)unforgettable.Therearecloistertours.

FondationVictorVasarely GALLERY
(www.fondationvasarely.fr1avMarcelPagnoladult/child9/4 10am1pm&26pmTueSun 4or6stopVasarely)Thisthrillinggallery andnationalhistoricalmonument,4kmwestofthecity,wasdesignedbyHungarianopticalartinnovatorVictorVasarely(190697).Thoughin needofrepairs,thebuildingisamasterpiece:16interconnectingsixwalledgalleries,purposebuilttodisplayandreflectthepatterningofthe artists44acidtripready,floortoceilinggeometricartworks.

ThermesSextius SPRINGS
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 0442238182www.thermessextius.com55avdesThermesdaypass45)ThesemodernthermalspasarebuiltonthesiteofRoman AquaeSextiaessprings,whoseexcavatedremainsaredisplayedbeneathglassinthelobby.

Tours
Thetouristoffice(Clickhere)hasDIYwalkingitinerariesandrunsapackedscheduleofguidedwalking(8)andbustours(from28)in English,suchasatourretracingCzannessteps.BustoursincludeLuberonandAlpilles.

MiniTram TRAMTOUR
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 0611542773www.cpts.frtour6)LeavesfromplaceduGnraldeGaulleandwindsitswaythroughtheQuartierMazarin,alongcours Mirabeau,andaroundVieilAix.Multilingual.

Festivals&Events
Thetouristoffice(Clickhere)hasalistofAixseeminglycontinuousfestivals.

Rencontresdu9meArt ARTFESTIVAL
(www.bdaix.com Mar&Apr)Comicbooks,animationandcartoons.

FestivaldAixenProvence PERFORMINGARTS
( 0434080217www.festivalaix.com Jul)Monthlongfestivalofclassicalmusic,opera,balletandbuskers.

THECALANQUES:FRANCESNEWESTNATIONALPARK
MarseilleabutsthewildandspectacularParcNationaldesCalanques,a20kmstretchofhigh,rockypromontories,risingfrombrilliantturquoise Mediterraneanwaters.Thesheercliffsareoccasionallyinterruptedbysmallidyllicbeaches,someimpossibletoreachwithoutakayak.TheMarseillais cherishtheCalanques,andcometosoakupsunortakealongdayshike.Thepromontorieshavebeenprotectedsince1975,andbecameanationalpark inApril2012(www.parcsnationaux.fr). ThebestwaytoseetheCalanques,fromOctobertoJune,istohikethemanymaquislinedtrails.Duringsummer,trailsclosebecauseoffiredanger:take aboattoureitherfromMarseilleorCassis,butbeforewarned,theydontstoptoletyouswimalternatively,goseakayakingwithRaskasKayak (www.raskaskayak.com),driveortakepublictransport. CalanquedeSormiouisthelargestrockyinlet.Twoseasonalrestaurantsservelunchwithfabulousviews,andrequirereservations.LeChteau( 0491250869mains1824 AprmidOct)hasthebestfoodandLeLunch( 0491250537,0491250539http://wp.resto.fr/lelunchmains 1628 AprmidOct)thebetterview.Bybus,takethe23fromtheRondPointduPradometrostoptoLaCayollestop,fromwhereitsa3kmwalk.(NB: Dinerswithreservationsareallowedtodrivethroughotherwise,theroadisopentocarsweekdaysonly,SeptembertoJune.) AlsopopulararethecalanquesofPortMiou,PortPin,EnVauandMorgiou,bestaccessedfromtheprettycoastaltownofCassis.Acoastalwalkfrom CassistoMorgiou(about15km),takes5to6hoursandisanabsolutestunner.Wearsturdyshoes. Marseillestouristoffice(Clickhere)leadsguidedwalks(nokidsundereight)oftheCalanques,andhasinformationonwalksandtrailclosures,asdoes theCassistouristoffice( 0892390103www.otcassis.comquaidesMoulins 9am6.30pmTueSat,9.3012.30&36pmSun,shorterhourslow season). Walkingaside,thelittleporttownofCassismakesapostcardperfectdaytripifyouhaveacar.Afteragloriousmorningdrivingaboveaquamarinecoves, plantolunchwithanobligatorybottleofcrispCassiswhitewineatoneoftheportsiderestaurants.Thetouristofficesuppliesfreemapsofcellarsopenfor tastings.

Sleeping
Lpicerie B&B
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 0608853868www.unechambreenville.eu12rueduCancelsinclbreakfast80120,dinclbreakfast100130 )ThisintimateB&B isthefabulouscreationofbornandbredAixoisladLuc.Hisbreakfastroomandsalondeth(tearoom)recreatesa1950sgrocerystore,and theflowerygardenoutbackisperfectforeveningdining(bookahead).Morningmealsareveritablefeasts.Tworoomsaccommodatefamiliesof four.

HteldesAugustins HOTEL
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 0442272859www.hotelaugustins.com3ruedelaMasser99250 )AheartbeatfromthehubofAixoislife,thisformer15th centuryconventwithastainedglassfoyerhasvolumesofhistory:forexample,MartinLutherstayedhereafterhisexcommunicationfromRome. Filledwithhandpaintedfurniture,thelargest,mostluxuriousroomshavejacuzzistworoomshaveprivateterracesbeneaththefiligreedbelltower.

HtellesQuatreDauphins BOUTIQUEHOTEL
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 0442381639www.lesquatredauphins.fr54rueRouxAlphrans5560,d7085 )Thissweet13roomhotel,aformerprivate mansion,wasredonein2010andisfreshandclean,withexcellentnewbathrooms.Thetallterracottatiledstaircase(nolift)leadstofourattic rooms,withslopedbeamedceilings.Wificosts5per24hours.

LeManoir HOTEL
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 0442262720www.hotelmanoir.com8ruedEntrecasteuxd7092,tr98106,q124 FebDec )Atmosphericallysetina14th centurycloister,TheManorsitsinaquietwedgeoftheoldtownandhascleanandsimple,spaciousrooms.Friendlystaff,freeparkingand breakfastservedalfrescointhevaultedcloisterroundoutitsofferings.

HtelCzanne BOUTIQUEHOTEL
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( 0442911111http://cezanne.hotelaix.com40avVictorHugod179249 )Aixhippesthotelisastudyincleanlines,withsharp edgedbuiltindesksandlotsoflight.Weactuallypreferthelessexpensiveluxerooms,whichhavethesametopendlinens,butmorecharm. Unfortunately,staffcanbesurly.Reserveaheadforfreeparking.

HtelPaul HOTEL
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( 0442232389http://www.aixenprovence.com/hotelpaul/10avPasteurs/d/trfrom51/52/74 )JustontheedgeofVieilAix,thisbright andcheerylittlebargainhasasweetgardenandaTVlounge.Theresfansforsummerandwificosts1.50per30minutes.Freemotorcycleand bikeparking.Nocreditcards.

HtelSaintChristophe HOTEL
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( 0442260124www.hotelsaintchristophe.com2avVictorHugos/d/tr/stefrom84/92/132/174 )TheSaintChristopheisaproper hotel,withabiglobbyandhelpfulstaff.Roomsarestyledwithanodtoartdeco,andhavethestandardmidbudgetamenities,includinggood bathroomssomehaveterraces,somecansleepfour.Parking(12)byreservation.

HtelCardinal HOTEL
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( 0442383230www.hotelcardinalaix.com24rueCardinales/d60/70)Slightlyrumpledroomsarequaintlyfurnishedwithantiquesand tasselledcurtains.Sixgiganticsuitesintheannexeupthestreet,eachwithakitchenetteanddiningroom,areidealforlongerstays.Wificosts5 per24hours.

Eating
AixexcelsatProvenalcuisineandrestaurantterracesspilloutacrossbackstreetsquares.Reservationsareessentialintherestaurantslisted below.EateriesoncoursMirabeauaregenerallyoverpriced.

RestaurantPierreReboul GASTRONOMIC
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( 0442205826www.restaurantpierrereboul.com11PetiteRueStJean3/7/12coursemenus42/85/142 lunchTueSat,dinner WedSat,closedlateAug)Aixnewestculinarystarinventsplayful,gorgeouscreationsthatarehomagestoeating.Withaminimalistsensibility,in boththerelaxeddiningroomandontheexquisitelypresentedplates,Reboulcraftsoriginaljuxtapositionsusingfreshbuttimelessingredients. Thinkperfectlysearedduckwithasavoury,unexpectedlyAsianinfluencedbroth,seafoamandtenderpasta.Thelunchspecial(50),includes mineralwater,coffeeandaglassofperfectlypairedwine.

LePetitVerdot FRENCH
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( 0442273012www.lepetitverdot.fr7ruedEntrecasteauxmains1525 dinnerMonSat,lunchSat)Deliciousmenusaredesigned aroundwhatsinseasonandpairedwithexcellentwines.Meatsareoftenbraisedallday,vegetablesaretender,stewedindeliciousbroths.Save roomforanincandescentdessert.Livelydiningoccursaroundtabletopsmadeofwinecrates(expecttotalktoyourneighbour),andthegregarious ownerspeaksmultiplelanguages.

Charlotte BISTRO
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( 044226775632ruedesBernardines2/3coursemenus15.50/19 lunch&dinnerTueSat )ItsallverycosyatCharlotte,where everyoneknowseveryone.Frenchclassicslikevealescalopeandbeefsteakfillthehandwrittenmenu,andtherearealwaysacoupleof imaginativeplatsdujour.Insummereverythingmovesintothegarden.

CZANNESIGHTS
ThelifeoflocalladPaulCzanne(18391906)istreasuredinAix.Toseewhereheate,drank,studiedandpainted,followtheCircuitdeCzanne(Czanne Trail),markedbyfootpathembeddedbronzeplaques.TheinformativeEnglishlanguageguidetotheplaques,CzannesFootsteps,isfreeatthetourist office.Amobileapp,CityofCzanneinAixenProvence(2),isavailableonline. Czanneslaststudio,AtelierPaulCzanne(www.ateliercezanne.com9avPaulCzanneadult/child5.50/2 10amnoon&26pm,closedSun winter),1.5kmnorthofthetouristofficeonahilltop,waspainstakinglypreserved(andrecreated:notallthetoolsandstilllifemodelsstrewnaroundthe singleroomwerehis)asitwasatthetimeofhisdeath.Thoughthestudioisinspiring,noneofhisworkshanghere.Takebus1or20totheAtelierCzanne stop,orwalk1.5kmfromthecentre.A10minutewalkuphillfromthebusstopistheTerraindesPeintres(opposite62avPaulCzanne),awonderful terracedgardenperfectforapicnic,fromwhereCzanne,amongothers,paintedtheMontagneSteVictoire. Visitstotheothertwosightsmustbereservedinadvanceatthetouristoffice.In1859CzannesfatherboughtLeJasdeBouffan( 0442161091 adult/child5.50/2 guidedtours10.30am5.30pmdailysummer,lessfrequentothertimes 6stopCorsy),acountrymanorwestofAixcentre,where Czannepaintedfuriously:36oilsand17watercoloursinthedecadesthatfolloweddepictingthehouse,farmandchestnutlinedalley. In1895CzannerentedacabinatLesCarriresdeBibemus(BibmusQuarries 0442161091adult/child6.60/3.10 tours9.45amdaily JunSep,10.30am&5pmMon,Wed,Fri&SunApr,May&Oct,3pmWed&SatJanMar),ontheedgeoftown,wherehepaintedprolificallyandwherehe didmostofhisMontagneSteVictoirepaintings.Atmosphericonehourtoursoftheochrequarrytakevisitorsonfootthroughthedramaticburntorange rocksCzannecapturedsovividly.

LaMado MODERNFRENCH
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(ChezMadeleine 0442382802www.lamadoaix.com4placedesPrcheurslunch/dinnermenus18/32 7am2amdaily)Thissmart daytimecafeandmodernrestaurantisanunbeatablespotforcoffeeandfashionablepeoplewatching,oradelicious,relaxedmeal.Itsbeen aroundforyears,sotheoldguarddinewhilethehipstersshine.Thebuzzingterracespillsoutontothebusyplaza.Italsooffersoystersandsushi.

LeFormal MODERNFRENCH
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( 0442270831www.restaurantleformal.fr32rueEspariatlunchmenu21.50,3/7coursedinnermenus38/47 lunchTueFri, dinnerTueSat)ChefJeanLucLeFormalismakinganameforhimselfinFrancesfoodiecircleswithhisfirstclassestablishment.Impeccably manneredstaffservedelicioustreatsinthevaultedcellardiningrooms.

JacquouLeCroquant BISTRO
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04422737192rueAumneVielle2coursecrpemenu16,mainsfrom10

lunch&dinnerdaily

)Slideintothistiny,lowkey

jointforhomecooked,wholesomeFrenchbasics.

Amphitryon PROVENAL
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( 0442265410www.restaurantamphitryon.fr24ruePaulDoumermenus2540 lunch&dinnerTueSat)Runbyfieryduomatred PatriceLesnandchefBrunoUngaro,AmphitryonenjoysasolidreputationamongAixbourgeoisie,particularlyinsummerforitsmarketdriven creativecookingandcloistergarden.AttachedistheComptoirdelAmphi(mains1218),whichservesequallytastybutmoreinformalmeals.

ChezFraud PROVENAL
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( 04426307278ruePuitsJuiflunch/3coursemenus22/33 lunch&dinnerTueSatSepJul)Thiselegant,familyrunrestaurant tuckeddownasidestreetisasprettyasaFrenchpostcard.ThemenufeaturesProvenalclassics:soupeaupistou(abrothysoupofbeans, vermicelliandbasil),aubergineengratin(eggplantgratin),andredpeppersstuffedwithbrandadedemorue(saltcodemulsion).

SWEETTREAT
AixsweetesttreatsinceKingRensweddingbanquetin1473isthemarzipanlikelocalspeciality,calissondAix,asmall,diamondshaped,chewydelicacy madeonawaferbasewithgroundalmondsandfruitsyrup,andglazedwithicingsugar.Traditionalcalissonniersstillmakethem,includingRoyRen Offlinemap Googlemap (www.calisson.com13rueGastondeSaporta),whichhasatinymuseum.Towatchtheprocessfirsthand,visititsfactory CalissonsduRoyRen( 0442392990tours1 10amTue&Thubyappointment),onthecitysfringe.

LePoivredne MODERNFRENCH
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( 0442213266www.restaurantlepoivredane.com40placedesCardeursmenus2845 dinnerThuTue)Localsflockherefor affordable,creative,contemporarycuisineinastylishsetting.InsummeritsdesignertablesspillacrossoneofAixloveliestpedestriansquares.

Drinking&Entertainment
Thesceneisfun,butfickle.LeMoisAix(freefromthetouristoffice)andlistingsonwww.marseillebynight.com(inFrench)coverAix. Fornightlife,hitruedelaVerrerieandplaceRichelme.Openaircafescrowdthecityssquares,especiallyplacedesCardeurs,placede VerdunandplacedelHteldeVille. Aixstudentpopulationensuresgreatcinemaoptions(www.lescinemasaixois.com):CinMazarin Offlinemap Googlemap (6rueLaroque adult/student7.50/6.50),CinmaRenoir Offlinemap Googlemap ( 089268727024coursMirabeauadult/student7.50/6.50),Le Czanne Offlinemap Googlemap ( 0892687270www.lecezanne.com1rueMarcelGuillaumeadult/student8.50/6.70).

LeMedBoy GAYBAR
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(www.medboy.com6ruedelaPaix

9.30pm2am)Aixonlygaybarpacksinstandanddrink20somethings.

LeMistral NIGHTCLUB
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(3rueFrdricMistral midnight6amTueSat)Ifanyonesawakepastmidnight,chancesaretheyllwindupatthishappeningbasementclub, withthreebarsandadancefloor.DJsspinhouse,R&B,technoandrap.

HotBrass LIVEMUSIC
( 0442210557www.hotbrassaix.comchemindEguilles)Jazzandotherliveacts,6kmnorthwestoftown.

GrandThtredeProvence PERFORMINGARTS
( 0442916970www.legrandtheatre.net380avMaxJuvnal)Stateofthearttheatrepresentingmusicandopera.

LeBalletPreljocaj PERFORMINGARTS
( 0442934800www.preljocaj.org530avMozart)Offersperformancesatthe650seatPavillonNoir.

Shopping
AixmostchicshopsclusteralongpedestrianrueMariusReynaudandcoursMirabeau.LesAllesProvenales(www.lesalleesprovencales.fr avJosephVillevieille 10am7.30pmMonSat)haschainstores.

PlaceauxHuiles FOOD,DRINK
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(59ruedItalie)Provenalgoodies,likeoliveoils,chocolatesandteas.TheresanotherbranchinMarseille(Clickhere).

CaveduFlibrige FOOD,DRINK
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(www.aixenprovence.com/cavefelibrige8ruedesCordeliers)Sellsasplendidarrayofverydrinkablewines.

BookinBar BOOKS
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(4rueCabassol)FabulousEnglishbookshopwithacafe.

Information
CentreHospitalierduPaysdAix( PoliceStation( SOSMdecins( 0442335000www.chaix.fravdesTamaris)Medicalservices. 044293970010avdelEurope) 0442262400)Medicaladvice. 8.30am7pmMonSat,10am1pm&26pmSun

TouristOffice( 0442161161www.aixenprovencetourism.com37avGiuseppiVerdi OctJun,to8pmJulSep)Hastours,sellseventtickets.

GettingThere&Away
Consultwww.lepilote.comforalltransportinformation,andwww.infoler.frforsomeregionalbuses. AIRAroportMarseilleProvence(Clickhere)is25kmsouthwestandisservedbyregularshuttlebusesfromthebusstation. BUSAixbusstation( 0442912680,0891024025avdelEurope)isa10minutewalksouthwestfromLaRotonde.Sundayserviceis limited.Services: Arles9.20,1hours,sevendaily Avignon17.40,1hours,sixdaily Marseille5,25minutes,everyfiveto20minutes Toulon12,onehour,sevendaily

AIXMARKETS
Foodmarket(placeRichelme morningsdaily):marinatedolives,goatscheese,lavender,honey,peaches,seafoodandabountyofseasonalfoods. FlowermarketsfillplacedesPrcheurs(Sundaymorning)andplacedelHteldeVille(Tuesday,ThursdayandSaturdaymornings). Fleamarket Offlinemap Googlemap (placedeVerdun Tue,Thu&Satmornings)Quirkyvintageitems.

TRAINTinycitycentretrainstation,atthesouthernendofavVictorHugo,servesMarseille(8,45minutes).AixTGVstation,15kmfromthe citycentreandaccessiblebyshuttlebus(3.70fromthebusstation),servesmostofFrancetoMarseilleits12minutes(8,20daily).

GettingAround
TO/FROMTHEAIRPORTHalfhourlyshuttleslinkAixbusstationwiththeairport(8)from4.40amto10.30pm. BICYCLEElectriccycles.fr( 0442399037www.electriccycles.fr17bisrueFrdricMistralper1hr/day/week4/20/90 closedMon morning&Sun)Rentsbikeswithelectricalmotors. BUSAixenBus( 0970809013www.aixenbus.fr1/10tickets1/7,3daypass5)runslocalbuses.Mostrununtil8pm.LaRotondeisthe mainhub.Thetouristofficealsohasschedules.Minibus2servesthetrainstation,LaRotondeandcoursMirabeau.Diabline(www.ladiabline.fr) electricshuttlescircletheoldtown(0.50,every10minutesMondaytoSaturday). Theresanightshuttle( 0626627833www.navettelive.blogspot.comannualmembership15,ridesfree Fri),butyoumustbebetween18and30yearstoride. TAXIOutsidethebusstation. TaxiMirabeau( 0442216161) 0442277111) TaxiRadioAixois( 11.30pm4.15amTue

ARLES&THECAMARGUE Arles
POP54,088

ArlesposterboyisthecelebratedimpressionistpainterVincentvanGogh.Ifyourefamiliarwithhiswork,youllbefamiliarwithArles:thelight,the colours,thelandmarksandtheatmosphere,allfaithfullycaptured. ButlongbeforeVanGoghrenderedthisgrandRhneRiverlocaleoncanvas,theRomansvalueditsworth.In49BCArlesprosperityand politicalstandingrosemeteoricallywhenitbackedawinnerinJuliusCaesar(whowouldnevermeetdefeatinhisentirecareer).AfterCaesar plunderedMarseille,whichhadsupportedhisrivalPompeytheGreat,ArleseclipsedMarseilleastheregionsmajorport.Withinacenturyanda half,itboasteda12,000seattheatreanda20,000seatamphitheatretoentertainitscitizenswithgruesomegladiatorialspectaclesandchariot races. Stillimpressivelyintact,thetwostructuresnowstageeventsincludingArlesfamousfrias(bullrunningfestivals),withtheircontroversiallethal bullfights,thelessbloodycoursescamarguaisesandthreedaysofstreetparties.

Sights&Activities
Thoughhepainted200oddcanvasesinArles,therearenoVanGoghartworksheretoday,andVanGoghslittleyellowhouseonplace Lamartine,whichhepaintedin1888,wasdestroyedduringWWII.Nevertheless,thereareseveralwaystopayhomagetothemaster.Mappedout inabrochure(1ordownloadableforfreeonline)fromthetouristoffice(Clickhere),theevocativeVanGoghwalkingcircuitofthecitytakesin scenespaintedbytheartist. ArleswillsoonbegracedwithaculturalcentredesignedbyworldrenownedarchitectFrankGehry.TheMuseonArlaten Offlinemap
Googlemap isclosedforrenovationsuntil2014.

Unlessotherwisenoted,thelastentrytosightsis30minutespriortoclosing.Winterhoursareshorterthanthoselistedbelowplacesthatclose at7pminsummerusuallycloseat5pminwinter.MuseumsarefreethefirstSundayofthemonth.

Arles
TopSights
FondationVincentVanGogh C2 LesArnes D2 MuseRattu B1 ThtreAntique C3

Sights
1 ClotreStTrophime C3 2 Cryptoportiques B2 3 gliseStTrophime C3 4 EspaceVanGogh A4 5 HteldeVille B3 6 MuseonArlaten B3 PlaceduForum (see2) 7 ThermesdeConstantin B1

Sleeping
8 HtelArlatan B2 9 Hteldel'Amphithtre C3 10 HtelduMuse B1 11 LeBelvdreHtel D1 12 L'HtelParticulier A3

Eating
13 14 15 16 17 18 19 AuJardinduCalendal D3 ComptoirduSud B3 L'Atelier B3 L'Autruche A3 LeCilantro D3 LeGibolin A3 L'Entrevue A2

Entertainment
20 TicketOffice D2

Shopping
21 LaBotteCamarguaise A3 22 LaBoutiquedesPassionns B2

LesArnes ROMANSITES
Offlinemap Googlemap

(Amphithtreadult/childinclThtreAntique6.50/free 9am7pm)Slaves,criminalsandwildanimals(includinggiraffes)mettheir dramaticdemisebeforeajubilant20,000strongcrowdduringRomangladiatorialdisplaysatLesArnes,builtaroundthelate1storearly2nd centuryAD.DuringtheearlymedievalArabinvasionsthearchlacedcircularstructure,whichis136mlong,107mwideand21mtall,wastopped withfourdefensivetowerstobecomeafortress.Indeed,bythe1820s,whentheamphitheatrewasreturnedtoitsoriginaluse,therewere212 housesandtwochurchesthathadtoberazedonthesite. Buyticketsforbloodybullfights,bloodlesscoursescamarguaises,theatreandconcertsattheBureaudeLocation(BureaudeLocation 0891700370www.arenesarles.com 9.30amnoon&26pmMonFri,10am1pmSat)neartheentrance.

MuseRattu ARTMUSEUM
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( 0490493758www.museereattu.arles.fr10rueduGrandPrieuradult/child7/free 10am12.30pm&26.30pmTueSun)This splendidmodernartmuseumishousedintheexquisitelyrenovated15thcenturyGrandPrioryoftheKnightsofMalta.Amongitscollectionsare worksby18thand19thcenturyProvenalartistsandtwopaintingsand57sketchesbyPicasso.Ithostswonderfullycuratedcuttingedge exhibitions.

FondationVincentVanGogh GALLERY
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( 0490499404www.fondationvincentvangogharles.org5placeHonorClairadult/child6/free 10am7pm)Thisnewlyrenovated galleryhousesrotatingexhibitsandacollectionofimportantmoderndayartists,includingDavidHockney,FrancisBaconandFernandoBotero, payinghomagetotheartistsdistinctivestyle.

CULINARYDETOUR:VENTABREN
Alesserknownhilltopvillage,Ventabren(population5000),16kmwestofAix,providestheperfectlazydaydetour.Meandersundappledcobbledlanes, peepinsidea17thcenturychurch,andtakeinpanoramicviewsofProvencefromtheruinsofChteaudelaReineJeannebeforeasuperblunchor dinneratLaTabledeVentabren( 0442287933www.latabledeventabren.com1rueCzannemenus4150 lunchWedSun,dinnerTueSun) ,reasonenoughtovisit.Theterracelooksouttodistantmountains,magicalonstarrysummerevenings.ChefDanBessoudo,whorecentlyreceiveda covetedMichelinstar,createsinventive,whollymodernFrenchdishesandknockoutdesserts.Reservationsessential.

MuseDpartemental ArlesAntique ANTIQUITIESMUSEUM

( 0413315103www.arlesantique.cg13.fravdelaPremireDivisionFranaiseLibreadult/child6/free 10am6pmWedMon)This striking,stateoftheartcobaltbluemuseumperchesontheedgeofwhatusedtobetheRomanchariotracingtrack(circus),1.5kmsouthwestof thetouristoffice.TherichcollectionofpaganandChristianartincludesstunningmosaics.Housesaleadingmosaicrestorationcentrewatchwork inprogress.

ThtreAntique ROMANSITES
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 0490969330bddesLices4.50,orfreewithLesArnesadmission 9am7pm)Stillregularlyusedforalfrescoconcertsandplays, theThtreAntiquedatesfromtheendofthe1stcenturyBC.Forhundredsofyearsitwasasourceofconstructionmaterials,withworkers chippingawayatthe102mdiameterstructure(thecolumnontherighthandsideneartheentranceindicatestheheightoftheoriginalarcade). EnteronruedelaCalade.

gliseStTrophime CHURCH
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(placedelaRpublique)Arleswasanarchbishopricfromthe4thcenturyuntil1790,andthisRomanesquestylechurchwasonceacathedral. Builtinthelate11thand12thcenturiesonthesiteofseveralearlierchurches,itsnamedafterStTrophime,abishopofArlesduringthelate2ndor early3rdcenturyAD.Onthewesternportal,theintricatelysculptedtympanum(morespectacularthantheinterior)depictsStTrophimeholdinga spiralstaff.Insidetheausterechurch,thetreasurycontainsbonefragmentsofArlesbishopswhowerelatercanonised.Manyofthestatues insideweredecapitatedduringtheFrenchRevolution. Nextdoor,theevocative12thto14thcenturyClotreStTrophime Offlinemap Googlemap (StTrophimeCloister adult/child3.50/free 9am7pm)wasbuilttoaccommodatethemonksdailylives.Ithostsoccasionalexhibitions. 0490493636

LesAlyscamps CEMETERY
(avdesAlyscampsadult/child3.50/free 9am7pm)VanGoghandGauguinbothpaintedthisnecropolis1kmsouthwestoftown.Founded bytheRomansandtakenoverbyChristiansinthe4thcentury,thecemeterybecameacovetedrestingplacebecauseofthetombsofmartyrSt GenestandArlesfirstbishops.

EspaceVanGogh GALLERY
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( 0490493939placeFlixRey 9am5pm)HousedintheformerhospitalwhereVanGoghhadhisearstitchedandwaslaterlockedup nottobeconfusedwiththeasylumMonastreStPauldeMausole(Clickhere)thisgalleryhousestemporaryartexhibitions.

ThermesdeConstantin ROMANSITES
Offlinemap Googlemap

(rueduGrandPrieuradult/child3/free inthe4thcentury.

9amnoon&27pm)PartlypreservedRomanbathswerebuiltforEmperorConstantinsprivateuse

PlaceduForum ROMANSITES
Offlinemap Googlemap

Justassocial,politicalandreligiousliferevolvedaroundtheforuminRomanArles(spottheremainsofa2ndcenturyADtempleembeddedin HtelPinusNordsfacade),sothisbusyplanetreeshadedsquarebuzzeswithcafelifetoday. BeneathyourfeetareCryptoportiques Offlinemap Googlemap (adult/child3.50/free 9amnoon&27pm),subterraneanfoundations fortheforumandburiedarcades(theplazawaslowerinRomantimes)carvedoutinthe1stcenturyBC.Accesstheundergroundgalleries,89m longand59mwide,attheHteldeVille Offlinemap Googlemap (TownHallplacedelaRpublique).

Festivals&Events
FriadArles BULLFIGHTING
(FriadePqueswww.feriaarles.com inMayandJune. Easter)Festivalheraldingthestartofbullfightingseason,withbullfightinginLesArnesmostSundays

FtedesGardians CULTURALFESTIVAL
( 1May)MountedCamarguecowboysparadeandholdgames.

LesSuds MUSICFESTIVAL
(www.sudsarles.com Jul)Vibrantmusicfestival,heldoveroneweekinearlyJuly.

LesRencontres dArlesPhotographie ARTFESTIVAL

(www.rencontresarles.com earlyJulSep)Internationalphotographyfestival.

FriaduRiz BULLFIGHTING
(www.feriaarles.com Sep)Bullfightsduringthisweeklongfestivalmarkthestartofthericeharvest.

Sleeping
Arleshasreasonablypriced,excellentyearroundaccommodation,whichonlyreallyfillsduringfriassomehotelsonlyopenApriltoOctober. Hotelsprivateparkingtendstobepricey.

HteldelAmphithtre HISTORICHOTEL
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 0490961030www.hotelamphitheatre.fr57rueDiderots/d/tr/qfrom57/67/117/137 )Crimson,chocolate,terracottaandother richearthycoloursdresstheexquisite17thcenturystonestructureofthisstylishhotel,withnarrowstaircases,aroaringfireandalfrescocourtyard breakfasts.Theromanticsuite(157)hasadreamylilacwalledterraceoverlookingrooftops.Wheelchairaccess.

HtelArlatan HISTORICHOTEL
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( 0490935666www.hotelarlatan.fr26rueduSauvaged85157,apt177247 midMarmidNov )Theheated swimmingpool,prettygardenandplushroomsdecoratedwithantiquefurniturearejustsomeofthethingsgoingforthishotel.Addtothatasetting steepedinhistory,withRomanfoundationsvisiblethroughaglassfloorinthelobbyand15thcenturypaintingsononeoftheloungesceilings. Wheelchairaccess.

LeBelvdreHtel BOUTIQUEHOTEL
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 0490914594www.hotellebelvederearles.com5placeVoltaires/dfrom65/70 )Thissleek17roomhotelisoneofthebest Arlsianpads.Redglasschandeliers(andfriendlystaff)adornthelobbybreakfastareaandthesupercleanroomsandbathroomsarefittedoutin stylishred,chocolatebrownandgrey.

ROMANCOMBOPASS
Buyapassformultiplesightsatthetouristoffice(Clickhere)oranyRomansite:PasseportAvantage(13.50)coversthemuseums,boththeatres,the baths,crypt,LesAlyscampsandtheClotreStTrophimethePasseportLibert(9)givesyouthechoiceoffivesightsintotalincludingonemuseum.

HtelduMuse BOUTIQUEHOTEL
Offlinemap Googlemap

( 0490938888www.hoteldumusee.com11rueduGrandPrieurs/d/tr/qfrom60/65/90/120 midMarOct )Inafine17thto 18thcenturybuilding,thisimpeccablehotelhascomfortablerooms,acheckerboardtiledbreakfastroomandasugarsweetpatiogarden brimmingwithprettyblossoms.

VINCENT
ItseasytoforgetthatVincentvanGoghwasonly37whenhedied,asheappearsmucholderinhisselfportraits.Bornin1853,theDutchpainterarrivedin Arlesin1888afterlivinginPariswithhisyoungerbrotherTheo,anartdealerwhofinanciallysupportedVincentfromhisownmodestincome.InParishehad becomeacquaintedwithseminalartistsEdgarDegas,CamillePissarro,HenrideToulouseLautrecandPaulGauguin. RevellinginArlesintenselightandbrightcolours,VanGoghpaintedwithaburningfervour,unfazedbyhowlingmistralwinds.Duringamistralhewould kneelonhiscanvasesandpainthorizontally,orlashhiseaseltoironstakesdrivendeepintotheground.HesentpaintingstoTheoforhimtotrytosell,and dreamedoffoundinganartistscolonyhere,butonlyGauguinfolloweduphisinvitation.Theirdifferingartisticapproaches(Gauguinbelievedinpainting fromimagination,VanGoghpaintingwhathesaw)andtheirartistictemperamentscametoaheadwiththeargumentinDecember1888thatledtoVan Goghloppingoffpartofhisownear. InMay1889VanGoghvoluntarilyenteredanasylum,MonastreStPauldeMausole(Clickhere)inStRmydeProvence,25kmnortheastofArlesover theAlpilles.Duringhisoneyear,oneweek,andonedaysconfinement,hepainted150oddcanvases,includingmasterpieceslikeStarryNight(nottobe confusedwithStarryNightovertheRhne,paintedinArles). InFebruary1890,his1888workTheRedVines,paintedinArles,wasboughtbyAnneBoch,sisterofhisfriendEugeneBoch,for400francs(around 50today)theonlypaintinghesoldinhislifetime.ItnowhangsinthePushkinStateMuseumofFineArts. On16May1890VanGoghmovedtoAuverssurOise,justoutsideParis,tobeclosertoTheo.Buton27Julythatyearheshothimself,possiblytoavoid furtherfinancialburdenforhisbrother.Hediedtwodayslater,Theoathisside.Theosubsequentlyhadabreakdown,wascommittedanddied,aged33, justsixmonthsafterVincent.Lessthanadecadelater,VanGoghstalentstartedtoachieverecognition,withmajormuseumsacquiringhiswork.

LHtelParticulier BOUTIQUEHOTEL
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( 0490525140www.hotelparticulier.com4ruedelaMonnaied289309 EasterOct)Thisexclusiveboutiquehotelwithrestaurant, spaandhammam(Turkishsteambath)oozeschiccharm.Fromthebigblackdoorwithheavyknockertothecrispwhitelinensandminimalist decor,everythingaboutthis18thcenturyprivatemansionenchants.

AubergedeJeunesse HOSTEL
( 0490961825www.fuaj.org20avMarchalFochdminclbreakfast&sheets18.50 midFebmidDec,receptionclosed10am 5pm)Thissunlitplace,madeupofeightbeddorms,isjust10minuteswalkfromthecentre.Itsbarclosesat11pm,justlikeitsgates(except duringfrias).

CampingCity CAMPGROUND
( 0490930886www.campingcity.com67rtedeCrausites19 AprSep)Closestcampgroundtotown,1.5kmsoutheastontheroadto Marseille.Theresbikehireandalaundry,withsupermarketsnearby.Takebus2totheHermitestop.

Eating
Arlesanditsenvironsarefoodieheaven.AtArlesenormousSaturdaymorningmarket(bddesLices),Camarguesalt,goatscheeseand saucissondArles(bullmeatsausage)scenttheair.ThesceneshiftstobdmileCombesonWednesdaymorning.

LAtelier GASTRONOMIC
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( 0490910769www.rabanel.com7ruedesCarmeslunch/dinnermenusfrom55/95 lunch&dinnerWedSun)Considerthisnota meal,butanartisticexperience.Everyoneofthesevenor13edibleworksofartisawondrouscompositionofflavours,coloursandtextures,and notwobitesarethesame.SitbackandrevelinJeanLucRabanelssuperblycraftedsymphonyoffreshorganictastes.Nowonderthis charismaticchefwithhisownveggiepatchhastwoMichelinstars.

ABULLISHAFFAIR
Animalloversfearnot:notalltypesofbullfightsendwithblood.ThelocalCamarguevariation,thecoursecamarguaise,seesamateurrazeteurs(fromthe wordforshave),wearingskintightwhiteshirtsandtrousers,getascloseastheydaretothetaureau(bull)totrytosnatchrosettesandribbonstiedtothe bullshorns,usingacrochet(arazorsharpcomb)heldbetweentheirfingers.Theirleapsoverthearenasbarrierasthebullchargesmakespectators heartslurch. Bullsarebredonamanade(bullfarm)bymanadiers,whoarehelpedintheirdailychoresbygardians(Camarguecattleherdingcowboys).These mountedherdsmenparadethroughArlesduringtheFtedesGardians(Clickhere)inMay. ManymanadesalsobreedthecreamywhitechevaldeCamargue(Camarguehorse)andsomewelcomevisitorsaskattouristofficesinArlesandStes MariesdelaMer. AcalendarofcoursescamarguaisesisonlineattheFdrationFranaisedelaCourseCamarguaise(FrenchFederationofCamargueBullfights 0466260535www.ffcc.info),withmanyoccurringatthearenainStesMariesdelaMer.Recortadores(atypeofbullbaitingwithlotsofbulljumping)also happensduringthebullfightingseason(EastertoSeptember).

LAutruche MODERNFRENCH
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( 04904973635rueDulaulunchmenus18,mains29 lunch&dinnerTueSat)Thismodern,invitingrestaurantrunbyhusbandand wifeteamFabienandOuriaassemblesmarketfreshdishestoperfection.Forexample,theirMichelinexperiencedcheflayersthinstripsof greenapplechutneywithasuperblypreparedfoiegras.Extravagantdessertsareatreat.

LeGibolin BISTRO
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( 048865431413ruedesPorceletmenus25 lunch&dinnerTueSatSepJun)Suponpeerlesshomecooking,whilethefriendly patronessbustlesbetweentablesandoffersladiesfreshroses,andherJackRussellterriernipsatherheels.Itsawinebar,really,sothewine pairingsaremagnifique.Nocreditcards.

LEntrevue MOROCCAN
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( 0490933728www.lentrevuerestaurant.com23quaiMarxDormoymains1418 oforganictajinesandcouscousarebrisklyservedquayside.

lunch&dinnerdaily

)Excellent,heapingbowls

LeCilantro PROVENAL
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( 0490182505www.restaurantcilantro.com31ruePortedeLauremains41 lunchTueFri,dinnerTueSat )ChefJrme Laurent,abornandbredlocallad,runsthishotspotandcombineslocalingredientswithworldspicestocreateaccomplisheddishesfromfresh fishtoduckmedallionsorsteak.

AuJardinduCalendal TRADITIONALFRENCH
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( 04909611895ruePortedeLauremains1418 perfectforlunchingongourmetsalads.

noon7pmTueSun

)Theleafycourtyardgardenofthishotel(dfrom120)is

ComptoirduSud CAFE
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( 04909622172rueJeanJaurs 10am5pmTueFri)Gourmetsandwiches(tastychutneys,succulentmeats,foiegras)anddivinelittle salads,allatrockbottomprices,areservedatthecounter.

Drinking&Entertainment
TheplaceduForummakesforgreatcafesitting.Romabandsperformonthecitysstreets,withpastactsincludingLosReyesandtheGypsy Kings(fromArlesnoless,discoveredwhilebuskinginStTropez).Thetouristofficehaslistsofwhatson.

PatiodeCamargue DANCE,MUSIC
( 0490495176http://patio.chico.fr51bischeminBarriolticketincldinner5570)Watchasangriafuelleddinnershow.

Shopping
LaBotteCamarguaise SHOES
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049096208722rueJeanGranaud)BuyapairofhandmadeCamarguestylecowboyboots.

LaBoutiquedesPassionns MUSIC
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0490965993www.passionnes.com14rueRattu)GigflyersandmusicbyRomabands.

Information
PostOffice(5bddesLices) TouristOffice(www.arlestourisme.com)Mainoffice( 9am12.30pm&2.305pmMonFri) 0490184120bddesLices 9am6.45pm)trainstation( 0490433357

GettingThere&Around
BICYCLEEuropbike( 0638144950www.europbikeprovence.net)rentsbikesandhasbiketours. BUSFromthebusstation,thereareservicestoAixenProvence(9,1hours),StesMariesdelaMer(2.50,onehour)andNmes(1.50,one hour). Star( 0810000816 8.30amnoon&25.30pmMonFri)operateslocalbusesfrom6.30amto7.30pmMondaytoSaturday,and 9.30amto5.30pmSunday.Ticketscost0.80.FreeminibusescalledStarletscircletheoldcityevery25minutes(7.10amto7.15pmMondayto Saturday). TAXICall 0490969003. TRAINThereareservicestoNmes(7.50,30minutes),Marseille(13,45minutes)andAvignon(7,20minutes).TheclosestTGVstationsare inAvignonandNmes.