The Camargue

TheCamargue
JustsouthofArles,Provencesrollinglandscapesyieldtotheflat,marshywildsoftheCamargue,famousforitsteemingbirdlife,roughly500 species.Kingofallisthepinkflamingo,whichenjoystheexpansivewetlandsmildwinters.EquallyfamousaretheCamarguessmallwhite horsestheirmellowdispositionmakeshorseridingtheidealwaytoexploretheregionspatchworkofsaltpansandricefields,andmeadows dottedwithgrazingbulls.Bringbinocularsandmosquitorepellent. EnclosedbythePetitRhneandGrandRhneRivers,mostoftheCamarguewetlandsfallwithinthe850sqkmParcNaturelRgionalde Camargue,establishedin1970topreservetheareasfragileecosystemswhilesustaininglocalagriculture.Ontheperiphery,thetangde VaccarsandnearbypeninsulasandislandsformtheRserveNationaledeCamargue,a135sqkmnaturereserve. TheCamarguestwolargesttownsaretheseasidepilgrimsoutpostStesMariesdelaMerand,tothenorthwest,thewalledtownofAigues Mortes.
Sights&Activities
EastofStesMariesdelaMer,seafrontpathslikeDiguelaMerarereservedforwalkersandcyclists.
MusedelaCamargue MUSEUM
(MuseCamarguais 0490971082www.parccamargue.frMasduPontdeRoustyadult/child4.50/free 9am12.30pm&16pm WedMonFebDec)Insidean1812builtsheepshed10kmsouthwestofArlesontheD570,theCamargueMuseumpaintsanexhaustiveportrait oftraditionallife,itsexhibitionscoveringlocalhistory,ecosystems,farmingtechniques,floraandfauna.A3.5kmtrailleadstoanobservationtower withbirdseyeviewsofthemas(farmhouse)anditsprotectednaturalsurrounds.ThemuseumisthemaininformationpointfortheParcNaturel RgionaldeCamargue.
LeParcOrnithologiqueduPontdeGau NATUREPARK
( 0490978262www.parcornithologique.comPontduGauadult/child7/4 9amsunset)Pinkflamingospirouetteoverheadandstalk thewaterylandscapeatthisbirdpark,hometoeverybirdspeciesknowntosetfootintheCamargue.Watchthemfrom7kmofbeautifultrails meanderingthroughthesite.FindtheparkontheD570inPontduGau,4kmnorthofStesMariesdelaMer.
DomainedelaPalissade NATUREPARK
( 0442868128www.palissade.frrtedelaMeradult/child3/free 9am5pmdailyAprOct,9am5pmWedSunNovFeb)Thisremote naturecentre,southofSalindeGiraud,organisesfantasticforaysintothemarshesonfootandhorsebackcallaheadtobookhorsetreks(1hr adult/child16/14,2hr28/26).Theyrentbinoculars(2)andhavefreemapsoftheestatesthreemarkedwalkingtrails(1kmto8km)through scrubbyglasswort,floweringsealavender(August)andlagoons.
LesSalinsdeGiraud SALTPANS
( 0442867020placePchiney,SalindeGiraudadult/child/family8.20/6/24.20 10am12.30pm&26pmAprOct)Learnhowsel (salt)isproducedbylocalsauniers(saltfarmers)andtourthesaltpansonboardatouristtrain.
LesCabanesdeCacharel HORSERIDING
( 0490978410,0611577475www.cabanesdecacharel.comrtedeCacharel1/2/3hrshorsetrek15/28/40)FarmsalongroutedArles (D570)offerpromenadescheval(horsebackriding)astridewhiteCamarguehorses,butamoreauthenticexperiencecanbehadattheless tackyLesCabanesdeCacharelalongtheparallelrtedeCacharel(D85A).Theyalsohavehorseandcarriagerides(12/20perone/twohours).
Boating WATERSPORTS
ThemarshyCamarguelendsitselftoexplorationbyboat,andpricesareusuallyaround10/5peradult/childper1hourtrip.LeTikiIII( 978168www.tiki3.fr)isabeatupoldpaddleboatatthemouthofthePetitRhne,1.5kmwestofStesMaries. 0490
DIDYOUKNOW?
TheCamarguesanimalschangecolours.Pinkflamingosturnwhiteinwinterbecauseofthelackofcarotenerichbrineshrimp.Andthefamouswhitehorses arebornbrown,turningwhiteonlyatmaturity.
ForcanoeingandkayakingonthePetitRhne,contactKayakVertCamargue( Sylvral),14kmnorthofStesMariesofftheD38.
0466735717www.kayakvertcamargue.frMasde
Sleeping&Eating
LeMasdePeint BOUTIQUEHOTEL
( 0490972062www.masdepeint.comLeSambucd/stefrom260/395 midMarmidNov )Camarguesupmarketmas (farmhouse):thinkchic,gentrifiedcountryquartersrightoutofthepagesofdesignmagCteSud.Thegourmetrestaurant(3coursedinner menuadult/child55/29,lunchfrom39,canteenmains1730 lunchSat&Sun,dinnerFriWed)withseasonalmenusandpoolside canteenareopentononguests.Otherofferingsincludehorsesandbikestoride,jeepsafaris(60)andRomamusicdinnersinsummer. Reservationsessential.
HteldeCacharel FARMSTAY
( 0490979544www.hotelcacharel.comrtedeCacharel,D85As/d/tr/qfrom120/131/142/165 yearround )Thisisolated farmsteadperfectlybalancesmoderndaycomfortswithruralauthenticity.Photographicportraitsofthebullherderwhocreatedthehotelin1947 givethevintagediningroomsoul.Thepriciestroomslookoutoverthesunriseonthewater.Theresafriendlyowner,fansinsummer,andwifiin reception.JustnorthofStesMariesdelaMer.
LaChassagnette GASTRONOMIC
( 0490972696www.chassagnette.frrteduSambucmains35 lunch&dinnerThuMonAprJun,Sep&Oct,dailyJul&Aug,Thu SunNovMar)Inhalingthescentofsunripenedtomatoesisoneofmanypleasuresatthis19thcenturysheepfoldtheultimateCamarguedine. AlainDucasseprodigyArmandArnalcooksupaconstantlychanging100%organicmenu,growsmuchofithimselfandwoosguestswitha mosquitoprotectedoutsideterrace.Lookfortheforkandtrowelsign,12kmsoutheastofArlesonthesouthboundD36,justnorthofLeSambuc.
RestaurantLaTelline CAMARGUAIS
( 0490970175www.restaurantlatelline.frrtedeGageron,Villeneuvemains2025 offerrustichomecookinginthislocalsfavourite.Nocreditcards. lunch&dinnerFriMon)JeanPaulandFlorence
GettingThere&Around
YouwillneedacartovisittheareaitsaneasydaytripfromArles.Alternatively,itsflatterrainmakesCamargueanidealcyclingdestinationhire companiesbasedinStesMariesdelaMer(Clickhere)canusuallydropoffbikesatyourhotelforfree.
StesMariesdelaMer
POP2344
YoucouldbeforgivenforthinkingyoureinSpainatthisremoteseasideoutpost,wherewhitewashedbuildingslinedustystreetsanddancersin brightdressesspinflamenco.DuringitsRomapilgrimages,streetcookedpansofpaellafuelchaoticcrowdsofcarnivalesqueguitarists,dancers andcowboys.
Sights
TicketsforbullfightsatLesStesMariesArnesaresoldatthearena.
glisedesStesMaries CHURCH
(placedelglise)This12thto15thcenturychurch,withitsdark,hushed,candlewaxscentedatmosphere,drawslegionsofpilgrimRomato veneratethestatueofblackSara,theirhighlyreveredpatronsaint,duringthePlerinagedesGitans(Clickhere).TherelicsofSaraandthoseof MarieSalomandMarieJacob,allfoundinthecryptbyKingRenin1448,areenshrinedinapaintedwoodenchest,stashedinthestonewall abovethechoir.Fromthechurchsrooftopterrace(2),apanoramaunfolds.
Beaches BEACH
StesMariesdelaMerisfringedby30kmoffinesandbeaches,easilyreachedbybicycle.NudistbeachessurroundtheGachollelighthouseoff theDiguelaMer.
Activities
CamargueBateaudePromenade BOATING
( 0490978472http://bateaucamargue.com5ruedesLaunes)Tripswiththiscompanygenerallycostaround10/5peradult/childper1 hourtrip.
THESTORYOFTHEMARYS&GITANPILGRIMAGES
CatholicismfirstreachedEuropeanshoresinwhatisnowtinyStesMariesdelaMer.ThestoriessaythatSaintsMarieSalom(MarySalome)andMarie Jacob(MaryofClopas)andsomesayMaryMagdalenefledtheHolyLandinalittleboatandwerecaughtinastorm,driftingatseauntilwashing ashorehere. ProvenalandCatholicloredivergeatthispoint:CatholicismrelatesthatSara,patronsaintofthegitans(RomaGitanopeople,alsoknownasgypsies), travelledwiththetwoMaries(Marys)ontheboat.ProvenallegendsaysSarawasalreadyhereandwasthefirstpersontorecognisetheirholiness.In 1448,skeletalremainssaidtobelongtoSaraandthetwoMaryswerefoundinacryptinStesMariesdelaMer. GitanscontinuetomakepilgrimagestoPlerinagedesGitans(Romapilgrimages)on24and25May(oftenstayingforuptothreeweeks),dancingand playingmusicinthestreets,andparadingastatueofSarathroughtown.TheSundayinOctoberclosesttothe22ndseesasecondpilgrimagededicatedto thetwoSaintMarys(StesMaries)coursescamarguaisesarealsoheldatthistime.
QuatreMaries BOATING
( 0490977010www.bateaux4maries.camargue.fr36avThodoreAubanel)Boattripslasting1hourscostaround10/5peradult/child.
LeVlociste CYCLING
( 0490978326www.levelociste.frplaceMireille,StesMariesdelaMer)Charges15/28/34perone/two/threedaysofbicyclehireand
advisesoncyclingitineraries.Alsoorganisescyclingandhorseback(36)orcyclingandcanoeing(30)packages.
LeVloSaintois CYCLING
( 0490977456www.levelosaintois.camargue.fr19ruedelaRpublique,StesMariesdelaMer)Charges17/34forone/threedaysbike rental,hastandems(30perday)andanEnglishlanguagelistofcyclingroutes,andrentsmountainbikes(15/34perone/threedays).
Sleeping
HtelMditerrane HOTEL
( 0490978209www.hotelmediterranee.camargue.fr4avFrdricMistraldwithout/withbathroom42/55,tr/q75/80 midMarSep )Handilylocatedinthecentreoftown,thisisoneofthecheapestandmostcharmingoptions,festoonedwithflowerpots.Simplerooms secondsfromthesea.
LAubergeCavalire BOUTIQUEHOTEL
( 0490978888www.aubergecavaliere.comD570d140195)Locatedapproximately1.5kmnorthofStesMaries,thissaltoftheearth hotelspreadsoutoveratypicalCamarguelandscapeofwetlandsandmeadows.Rooms340to345lookoverapondteemingwithbirdlifethe thatchedcabinsoffercosyindependentquarters.Therearehorseridingtripsandgreatregionalrestaurant(menus1842).
Eating
LaCabaneauxCoquillages SEAFOOD
(rueThodoreAubanelmenusfrom18.50 lunch&dinnerdailyMarNov)Thispocketsizefishshophascratesofcrustaceanspiledhigh insideandagaggleofseabluechairsoutside.Aglassofdrywhiteandahalfdozenoysterscostsamere8.50.
LouSanten SEAFOOD
( 063017324921rueSadiCarnotmains915 MaymidSep)Rebuilteachsummerforthenewseason,thisbeachrestaurantis shadedbyatypicalreedloupio.Thecatchofthedaycanfeelpriceybutsticktoafingerlickingbowlofmoulesfrtes(musselsandchips)and valueisguaranteed.
Information
TouristOffice( Friday. 0490978255www.saintesmaries.com5avVanGogh 9am7pm)Guidedwalkingtours(7)depart2pmTuesdayand
GettingThere&Away
StesMariesdelaMerhasnobusstationbusesto/fromArles(2.70,45minutes,eightdaily)usetheshelteratthenorthernentrancetotownon avdArles(thecontinuationofrtedArlesandtheD570).
AiguesMortes
POP7705
ActuallylocatedovertheborderfromProvenceintheGarddpartement,thepicturesquetownofAiguesMortessits28kmnorthwestofStes MariesdelaMeratthewesternextremityoftheCamargue.Setinflatmarshlandandencircledbyhighstonewalls,thetownwasestablishedin themid13thcenturybyLouisIXtogivetheFrenchCrownaMediterraneanportunderitsdirectcontrol.Cobbledstreetsinsidethewallsarelined withrestaurants,cafesandbars,givingitafestiveatmosphereandmakingitacharmingspotfromwhichtoexploretheCamargue. Scalingtherampartsrewardsyouwithsweepingviews.Headtothetopofthetower,TourdeConstance(adult/child6.50/free 7pmMayAug,10am5.30pmSepApr)the1.6kmwalltopwalktakesaboutonehour. 10am
LHermitagedeStAntoine( 0603043405www.hermitagesa.com9bdIntrieurNordrinclbreakfast84 ),insidethewalledtown, hasthreeexquisitelyappointedrooms,onewithasmallprivateterrace.HtelLEscale( 0466537114http://hotel.escale.free.fr3avTour deConstanced4068,q7585)catersfantasticallytobudgettravellers. Thetouristoffice( 0466537300www.otaiguesmortes.frplaceStLouis 9amnoon&16pm)isinsidethewalledcity.
LESALPILLES
Thissilverychainoflow,jaggedmountains,strungbetweentheriversDuranceandRhne,delineatesatrschicsideofProvence,notablyaround upmarketStRmydeProvence,knownforfinerestaurantsandsummertimecelebrityspotting.Theentireregionischockablockwith gastronomicdelightsAOColiveoil,vineyards,Michelinstarredrestaurantsandtruffles.Historycomestolifeatmagnificentruinedcastles, remnantsofmedievalfeuds,andatoneofProvencesbestRomansites,theancientcityofGlanum.
StRmydeProvence
POP10,203
SeeandbeseenStRmyhasanunfairshareofgourmetshopsandrestaurantsinthespiritofthetownsmostfamousson,prophecymaker Nostradamus,wepredictyoulladdanotchtoyourbelt.Comesummer,whenyoumayspotPrincessCarolineofMonacoattheWednesday market,thejetsetwanderstheperipheralboulevardandcongregatesatplacedelaRpublique,leavingthequainthistoriccentrestrangelyquiet. ManybusinessescloseMondayswintertimeisdead.
Sights
SiteArchologiquedeGlanum ROMANSITES
( 0490922379http://glanum.monumentsnationaux.frrtedesBauxdeProvenceadult/child7.50/free,parking2.20 9.30am 6.30pmAprSep,10am5pmOctMar,closedMonSepMar)SpectaculararchaeologicalsiteGlanumdatestothe3rdcenturyBC.Walkingthe mainstreet,towardsthesacredspringaroundwhichGlanumgrew,youpassfascinatingremainsofaoncethrivingcity,completewithbaths, forum,marketplace,templesandhouses.TwoancientRomanmonumentsatriumphalarch(AD20)andmausoleum(30to20BC)markthe entrance,2kmsouthofStRmy. Forapanoramaovertheruinedcity,havelunchordrinksattheTabernaRomana( 0490926597www.tabernaromana.comrtedes Bauxmenus1626 10am6.30pmTueSunAprOct),whosecookingrevivesancientRomanrecipes,includinghoneyedredwine.
MonastreStPauldeMausole HISTORICSITE
( 0490927700www.cloitresaintpaulvaletudo.comentryadult/child4/3,guidedtour8 9.30am7pmAprSep,10.15am5pmOct Mar,guidedtour10amTue,Thu,Fri&SatEasterOct)VanGoghadmittedhimselftoMonastreStPauldeMausolein1889.Theasylums securityledtohismostproductiveperiodhecompleted150plusdrawingsandsome150paintingshere,includinghisfamousIrises.A reconstructionofhisroomisopentovisitors,asarethegardensandRomanesquecloisterthatfeatureinseveralofhisworks. Foritstime,the19thcenturyasylumwasquiteenlightened:VanGoghwasallowedtoroamuptoamileawaytopaint,ifaccompaniedbyastaff member.Fromthemonasteryentrance,awalkingtrailismarkedbycolourpanels,showingwheretheartistsetuphiseasel.Thetouristoffice (Clickhere)runsguidedVanGoghtoursinEnglishandFrench.StPaulremainsapsychiatricinstitution:anexhibitionroomsellsartworkcreated bypatients.
OLIVEOILMILLS
TheAlpillessouthernedgecontainssomeofProvencesbestknownmoulinsdhuile(oilmills),wherefourdifferenttypesofolives,freshlyharvestedfrom NovembertoJanuary,arepummelledandpressedintosilkenAOCValledesBauxdeProvenceoil. InMaussanelesAlpilles,thecooperativeMoulinJeanMarieCornille( 0490543237www.moulincornille.comrueCharlounRieu MonSat) dealsdirectlytothepublic,thoughits200,000LselloutbymidAugust.JunethroughSeptember,youcantourthemillat11amTuesdaysandThursdays. AtMouris,6kmsoutheastofMaussane,popinfortastesofexceptionaloils,milledatMoulinCoopratif( 0490475386www.moulincoop.com QuartierMasNeuf closedSunmornings).ThevillagecelebratesaFtedesOlivesVertes(GreenOliveFestival)inmidSeptember,andthearrivalof theyearsnewoilwithFtedesHuilesNouvellesinearlyDecember.
Sleeping
SouslesFiguiers BOUTIQUEHOTEL
( 0432601540www.hotelcharmeprovence.com3avGabrielSaintRenTaillandierd92154,tr168 )Hiddenbehinda wall,thissinglestoreycountrychichotelhas14artfilledroomsfacingaleafygardenlovelyforunwindingafteradaysexplorations.Theowneris apainter(whooffersclassesbyrequest)andhasexquisitetaste,marryingdesigndetailslikevelvetanddistressedwood,Moroccantextiles,and richcolourpalates.
HtelCantoCigalo HOTEL
( 0490921428www.cantocigalo.com8cheminCantoCigalor6989 )Thisexcellentvalue20roomhotelisa10minutestroll fromtown.Simpleandspotlesslyclean,itsfrillyfeminineroomsaredecoratedindustyrose,withwickerandwhitewoodfurniture.Breakfast (8.50)includeshomemadebreadandjam.Southfacingroomshaveaircon.
Eating
LesFillesduPtissier CAFE
( 06506107173placeFavierdishes815 9am11pm,variablelowseasonhours)Tablesfillthefountaincourtyardoutsidethis upbeat,colourfulcafe,withadailychangingmenuofmarketdrivensaladsandtarts.Atnighttime,itsawinebarwithcharcuterieplatesand occasionallivemusic.
LaCuisinedesAnges BISTRO
( 0490921766www.angesetfeesstremy.com4ruedu8Mai1945lunch/dinnermenus14/27 lunchMonSat,dinnerdailyJunAug, lunch&dinnerThuSat,dinnerSunSepMay )Light,simpleProvenaldishesarederivedfromorganiclocalingredientsatthiscosy villagebistrowithwoodflooreddiningroom,texturedpaintingsandzinctoppedtables.Upstairsisthecuteasabuttonchambresdhte,Le SommeildesFes(rinclbreakfast7494),withfiveB&Brooms.
MasdelAmarine MODERNFRENCH
( 0490944782www.masamarine.comanciennevoieAurliamains2836)Fiveminuteseastoftownbycar,thisfashionforward aubergeisfilledwithcontemporaryartworkandimmaculatedetailsthatcomplementthestylizedcooking.Manyingredientscomefromthe magnificentonsitegardenssurroundingtheformerfarmhouse.Idealforafancysplurgewithyoursweetheart.Reservationsessential.Upstairsare fivesnappyrooms(250360).
Information
TouristOffice( 0490920522www.saintremydeprovence.complaceJeanJaurs plus10am12:30pm&35pmSunJul&Aug) 9am12.30pm&26:30pmMonSatyearround,
GettingThere&Away
BICYCLERentalsanddeliveryfromTelecycles( 0490924943www.velopassion.fr). 0490928315www.telecycleslocation.com1/3/7days19/39/72)andVloPassion(
BUSAllCartreize( 0811880113www.pilote.com)servesAvignon(3.10,onehour),LesBauxdeProvence(weekendsMayto September,dailyJulyandAugust2.20,15minutes),Arles(MondaytoSaturday2.20),Cavaillon(1,30minutes).
LesBauxdeProvence
POP381
Clingingprecariouslytoanancientlimestonebaou(Provenalforrockyspur),thisfortifiedhilltopvillageisoneofthemostvisitedinFrance.Its easytounderstandwhy:narrowcobbledstreetswendcarfreepastancienthouses,uptoasplendidcastle.
Sights
ChteaudesBaux CASTLE,RUIN
(www.chateaubauxprovence.comadult/child7.60/5.70 9am6pmSepJun,9am8pmJul&Aug)Thetownshighpoint,thedramaticruins ofChteaudesBaux,crownthevillageanddominatethelandscape.Datingtothe10thcentury,thecastlewaslargelydestroyedin1633,during thereignofLouisXIII.Itsathrillingplacetoexploreparticularlyforrambunctiouskidswithmazelikeruinscovering7hectares. Climbcrumblingtowersforincredibleviews,anddescendintodisuseddungeons.Giantmedievalweaponsdottheopenairsite,and pictogramsofknightsfallingfromledgesdepictcautionarytalesabouthowhighyouareonthecliffs.Thereconstructedtrebuchets,ballistasand batteringramsaredemonstratedseveraltimesdailyduringsummer.
CarriresdeLumires LIGHTSHOW
( 0490545556www.carriereslumieres.comrtedeMaillaneadult/student8/6 10am7pmAprSep,10am6pmOctDec&Mar)A highendsoundandlightspectacular,CarriresdeLumiresisanodd,strangelythrillingattraction.Inchillyhallsofaformerlimestonequarry, giganticprojectionsilluminateroughcavewallsandfloor,accompaniedbyorationandswellingmusicinthatoverlydramaticwaytheFrenchso love.TheshowonGauginandVanGoghatthetimeofwritingshowsfamousimagesinnewways.Dresswarmly.
Sleeping&Eating
LOustaudeBaumanire GASTRONOMIC
( 0490543307www.oustaudebaumaniere.commenus95150 )Alegendarytablebeneathvaultedstoneceilings,LOustauserves rarefiedcuisine,includingatrsgourmetvegetarianmenu,withingredientspluckedfromtheorganicgardenoutside.Upstairsareluxurious rooms(dfrom290).HeadchefandownerJeanAndrCharialskingdomalsoincludestheMichelinstarredrestaurantandfancydigsatLa CabrodOr,alsoinLesBaux.Reservationsimperative.
Information
Touristoffice( 0490543439www.lesbauxdeprovence.com fewaccommodationoptions. 9.30am5pmMonFri,10am5.30pmSat&Sun)Hasinformationonthe
GettingThere&Away
BUSAllCartreize( 0811880113www.pilote.com)operatesweekendsinMay,JuneandSeptemberanddailyJulyandAugusttoStRmy deProvence(2.20,10minutes)andArles(2.20,30minutes). CARDrivingiseasiest,butparkingishellish.Findmeteredspacesfardownthehill,atthevillagesedgetheresfreeparkingoutsideCarrires deLumires.Goodluck.
THEVAUCLUSE
TheVaucluseislikeeveryProvenalclichrolledintoone:lavenderfields,scenichills,rowsuponrowsofvineyards,enchantingvillagesand picturesquemarkets,traditionalstonehouses,beatingsummersunandhowlingwintermistral.AttheheartofVaucluse,whichmeansclosed valley,istheexquisitetownofAvignon. AcaristheidealwaytocovertheVaucluse,butitspossible(ifnotexpedient)togetaroundbybus.
Avignon
POP92,454
Hoopedby4.3kmofsuperblypreservedstoneramparts,thisgracefulcityisthebelleofProvencesball.Itsturnasthepapalseatofpowerhas bestowedAvignonwithatreasuryofmagnificentartandarchitecture,nonegranderthanthemassivemedievalfortressandpapalpalace,the PalaisdesPapes.
Famedforitsannualperformingartsfestival,thesedaysAvignonisalsoananimatedstudentcityandanidealspotfromwhichtostepoutinto thesurroundingregion.Avignonisalsoknownforitsfabledbridge,thePontStBnzet,akathePontdAvignon.
History
Avignonfirstgaineditsrampartsanditsreputationasacityofartandcultureduringthe14thcentury,whenPopeClementVandhiscourtfled politicalturmoilinRomeforAvignon.From1309to1377,thesevenFrenchbornpopesinvestedhugesumsofmoneyinbuildinganddecorating thepapalpalace.Underthepopesrule,Jewsandpoliticaldissidentstookshelterhere.PopeGregoryXIleftAvignonin1376,buthisdeathtwo yearslaterledtotheGreatSchism(13781417),duringwhichrivalpopes(uptothreeatonetime)residedatRomeandAvignon,denouncingand excommunicatingoneanother.Evenaftertheschismwassettledandanimpartialpope,MartinV,establishedhimselfinRome,Avignonremained underpapalrule.ThecityandComtatVenaissin(nowtheVauclusedpartement)wereruledbypapallegatesuntil1791,whentheywere annexedtoFrance.
Sights
Ticketofficesformostsightscloseuptoonehourbeforeoverallclosingtimes.
Avignon
TopSights
MuseCalvet B4 MuseduPetitPalais C1 PalaisdesPapes C2 PlaceduPalais C2 PontStBnzet C1
Sights
1 CollectionLambert B5 2 MuseAngladon C4
Activities,Courses&Tours
3 AutocarsLieutaud C6 4 LesGrandsBateaux A3
Sleeping
5 AutourduPetitParadis D4 6 HtelBoquier C5 7 Hteldel'Horloge C3 8 Hteld'Europe B2 9 HtelLaMirande C2 10 HtelMignon B3 11 HtelSplendid C5 12 LeLimas B2 13 Lumani F1 14 VilladeMargot D1
Eating
15 ChristianEtienne C3 16 CuisineduDimanche D3 17 FoudeFafa D4 18 GinetteetMarcel D5 19 L'AtelierdeDamien F4 LeGrandCaf (see26) 20 L'EpiceandLove E4 21 LesHalles D4 22 Numro75 F5
Drinking
23 CafelaScne B2 LeCidCaf (see7) 24 L'Esclave B2 25 RedSky D3 26 UtopiaBar D2
Entertainment
AJMI (see26) CinmaUtopia (see26) 27 OpraThtred'Avignon C3
PalaisdesPapes PALACE
Offlinemap Googlemap
(PapalPalacewww.palaisdespapes.complaceduPalaisadult/child6/3 9am8pmJul,9am9pmAug,shorterhoursSepJun)The immensePalaisdesPapesistheworldslargestGothicpalaceandaUnescoWorldHeritageSite.BuiltwhenPopeClementVabandonedRome in1309tosettleinAvignon,itwastheseatofpapalpowerfor70oddyears.Theimmensescale,cavernousstonehallsandvastcourtyardstestify tothepapacyswealththe3mthickwalls,portcullisesandwatchtowersemphasisetheirinsecurity. Today,ittakesimaginationtopicturetheformerluxuryofthesevast,barerooms,butPDAstyleaudiovideoguidesshow2Dand3Dimagery oftheoncesumptuousfurnishings.Evenwithoutthese,youseesplendourin14thcenturychapelfrescos,paintedbyMatteoGiovannettiinthe intricatewallsofthePopesbedroomandintheChambreduCerf,alivewithmedievalhuntingscenes. Selfguidedtoursdirectyoufromlowerfloorstocrenellations:joingargoylesforsuperbviewsbeforestoppingforcoffeeintheskyhighcafe.Exit viaawinecellar,whereyoucansample55CtesduRhnewines. TheguidedtwohourVisitePalaisSecret(SecretPalaceTour)takesyoutosecrettowers,rooftopwalkwaysandhiddenchambers reservationsessential.TheEnglishlanguageversion(19.50)runsFridaysinspringandfalltheFrenchlanguageversion(34.50)runsSaturday andSunday,SeptembertoMay,andincludesbrunch. Combinationtickets(adult/child13/10)includeadmissiontoPontStBnzet.
PlaceduPalais SQUARE
AgoldenstatueofVirginMary(weighing4.5tons)standsonthedomeofRomanesqueCathdraleNotreDamedesDoms(built167172), outstretchedarmsprotectingthecity.Nexttothecathedral,theRocherdesDomsgardensprovideviewsoftheRhne,MontVentouxandLes Alpilles.Oppositethepalace,themuchphotographedbuildingdrippingwithcarvingsoffruitandheraldicbeastsistheformer17thcenturymint, HteldesMonnaies.
PontStBnzet BRIDGE
(adult/child4.50/3.50 9am8pmJul,9am9pmAug,shorterhoursSepJun)Accordingtolegend,PastorBnzethadthreesaintlyvisions urginghimtobuildabridgeacrosstheRhne.Completed1185,thebridgelinkedAvignonwithVilleneuvelsAvignon,controllingtradeatthis vitalcrossroads.Itwasrebuiltseveraltimesbeforeallbutfourofitsspanswerewashedawayinthemid1600s.Openinghoursarethesameas forPalaisdesPapesfordiscountadmission,purchaseacombinationticketwiththepalace. Dontbesurprisedifyouspotsomeoneattemptingadance.InFrance,PontStBnzetisknownasthePontdAvignon,fromthechirpynursery rhyme:SurlepontdAvignon/Lonydanse,lonydanse(OnAvignonBridge,allaredancing). Ifyoudontwanttopaytovisitthebridge,youcanseeitfreefromtheRocherdesDomspark,PontdouardDaladierorfromacrosstheriveron theledelaBarthelasseschemindesBerges.
MuseCalvet GALLERY
( 049086338465rueJosephVernetadult/child6/3 10am1pm&26pmWedMon)TheelegantHteldeVilleneuveMartignan(built 174154)providesafittingbackdropforAvignonsfineartsmuseum,with16thto20thcenturyoilpaintings,prehistoricpieces,15thcentury wroughtiron,andthelandscapesofAvignonnaisartistJosephVernet.
MuseduPetitPalais ARTMUSEUM
(www.petitpalais.orgplaceduPalaisadult/child6/free 10am1pm&26pmWedMon)Thebishopspalaceduringthe14thand15th centurieshousesoutstandingcollectionsofprimitive,preRennaissance,13thto16thcenturyItalianreligiouspaintingsbyartistsincluding Botticelli,CarpaccioandGiovannidiPaolothemostfamousisBotticellisLaViergeetlEnfant(1470).
MuseAngladon GALLERY
(www.angladon.com5rueLaboureuradult/child6/4 16pmTueSunAprNov,16pmWedSunJanMar)TinyMuseAngladonharbours impressionisttreasures,includingRailwayWagons,theonlyVanGoghinProvence(lookcloselyandnoticetheearthisntpaint,butbare canvas).AlsodisplayedareahandfulofearlyPicassosketchesandartworksbyCzanne,Sisley,ManetandDegasupstairsareantiquesand 17thcenturypaintings.
CollectionLambert GALLERY
(www.collectionlambert.com5rueVioletteadult/student/child7/5.50/2 11am9pmdailyJul&Aug,11am6pmTueSunSepJun) Openedin2000,Avignonscontemporaryartsmuseumshowcasesworksfromthe1960stopresentfromminimalistandconceptual,tovideo andphotographyinstarkcontrastwiththeclassic18thcenturymansionhousingthem.
Activities
OneofAvignonschiefjoysistoaimlesslywanderthephotogenicoldcity.Withinits14thcenturyrampartsliecrookedstreetsandleafysquares, medievalchurchesandhandsomehouseswithornatedoorways.Thetouristoffice(Clickhere)hasafreemap,outliningfourdifferentroutes, includingtheQuartierdesTeinturiers,theformerdyersdistrict,wherefourwaterwheelsstillturn.
GuidedTours WALKINGTOURS
(from15 10amvariousdays,SatonlyNovMar)TwohourtoursofAvignoninEnglishandFrenchdepartfromthetouristoffice.
AutocarsLieutaud BUSTOUR
( 0490863675www.carslieutaud.fr36bdSaintRoch)Themedhalfandfulldaytours,includingwineries,lavender,Romanmonuments, andLuberon(45to55).Foravintageexperience,booktheclassicconvertibleCitron2CV(from145).
LesGrandsBateaux BOATTOUR
( 0490856225www.mireio.netallesdelOulleboattoursadult/child9/5 boattours3pm&4.15pmAprJun&Sep,26pmJulAug) Runs45minuteboattours,ApriltoSeptember,loopingunderthefamousbridge.Foryearrounddaytimecruises(from26),LeMireiosailsto Arles,ChteauneufduPapeandTarascon.Summerevenings,thecompanysdinnercruises(from51)drawoldercrowdswithdancingandlive entertainment.
AvignonWineTour VINEYARDTOUR
( 0628053384www.avignonwinetour.comperperson80)Visittheregionsvineyardswithaknowledgableguide,leavingyoufreeto enjoythewine.
Festivals&Events
FestivaldAvignon PERFORMINGARTS
(www.festivalavignon.com Jul)ThethreeweekannualFestivaldAvignonisoneoftheworldsgreatperformingartsfestivals.Over40 internationalworksofdanceanddramaplayto100,000plusspectatorsatvenuesaroundtown.Ticketsdontgoonsaleuntilspringtime,but hotelsselloutbyFebruary.
FestivalOff PERFORMINGARTS
(www.avignonleoff.com Jul)FestivaldAvignonisparalleledbyasimultaneousfringeevent,FestivalOff,witheclectic(andcheaper) experimentalprogramming.LaCarteOff(16)provides30%discounts.
Sleeping
AvignonisoneofthefewplacesinProvencethatcaterswellforbudgetconscioustravellers.Bookmanymonthsaheadforaroomduringthe festival,whenpricessoar.
HtelLaMirande LUXURYHOTEL
( 0490142020www.lamirande.fr4placedelaMiranded425610 )Avignonstophoteloccupiesaconverted16thcentury palace,withdramaticinteriorsdeckedinorientalrugs,goldthreadedtapestries,marblestaircasesandoverthetopGallicstyle.Lowendrooms aresmall,butstillconjurethefeelingofstayingovernightinsomeonesprivatechteau. OnsiteformalrestaurantLeMarmiton(mainsfrom35)offerscookingclasses(from80)andatwiceweeklychefstable(aninformal eveningakintoadinnerpartywhenthechefcooksinfrontofguests96,reservationsessential)afternoonteaisserved(albeitslowly)inthe glitteringlobbyorgarden.
LeLimas B&B
( 0490146719www.lelimasavignon.com51rueduLimasd/trinclbreakfastfrom120/200 )ThischicB&Binan18thcenturytown house,likesomethingoutofVogueLiving,iseverythingdesignersstriveforwhenmixingoldandnew:stateoftheartkitchenandminimalistwhite decorcomplementingantiquefireplacesand18thcenturyspiralstairs.Breakfastonthesundrenchedterraceisatreatasisbubblyowner Marion.
HteldEurope LUXURYHOTEL
( 0490147676www.heurope.com12placeCrillond190540 )For200years,HteldelEuropehasgreetedluminariesfrom NapolontoJaquelineKennedyOnasis.Serviceremainsexcellent,buttheglamourhasfadedroomsneedbetterlightingandfabrics.Still,itsa grandaddress,paricularlywhenyouscorediscountedrates.
Lumani B&B
( 0490829411www.avignonlumani.com37rueduRempartStLazaredinclbreakfast100170 dhte,awealthofinspirationforpainters.Roomsincludetwosuitesandtheresafountainedgarden.
)Artfillsthisfabulousmaison
HtelBoquier HOTEL
( 0490823443www.hotelboquier.com6rueduPortailBoquierd5070 )Theownersinfectiousenthusiasminformsthischeerful andcolourful,smallcentralhoteltryforthemedroomsMoroccoorLavender.Excellentvalue.
HteldelHorloge HOTEL
( 0490164200www.hotelsocreazur.complacedelHorloger95180 )Mostroomsatthissupercentral19thcenturystonewalled hotel(withelevator)arestraightforward(comfortable,allmodcons),butfiveterraceroomshavetheedgewithknockoutviewsroom505 overlooksthePalaisdesPapes.
VilladeMargot B&B
( 0490826234http://demargot.fr24ruedesTroisColombesrinclbreakfast110190 )Acharming,quietoldcityaddress,this 19thcenturyprivatehome,convertedintoanelegantguesthouse,hasawalledgardenandrooftopviews.Roomsarestyledliketheirnames Oriental,Royal,ArtDecoandRomantic.
AutourduPetitParadis SELFCONTAINED
( 0490810042www.autourdupetitparadis.com5rueNolAntoineBiretaptnightly105180,weekly6501050 )Livelikea localina17thcenturystonehouse,convertedintoasmallapartmenthotel.Scrupulouslymaintained,eachapartmenthasakitchenette,idealfor travellerswholikestyle,butdislikeshellingoutforrestaurants.
HtelMignon HOTEL
( 0490821730www.hotelmignon.com12rueJosephVernetrinclbreakfast6284 )Cuteandcomfy,with16colourfulrooms, thisgoodvaluehotelwithinthewalledcityistopsfornofrillsbudgeters,despitethetinybathsandsteepstairs.
HtelSplendid HOTEL
( 0490861446www.avignonsplendidhotel.com17rueAgricolPerdiguiers48,d6878,apt7898 cyclefriendly,centralhoteloverlooktheneighbouringpark.Thegroundfloorflathasaprivatepatio.
)Someroomsatthissmall,
Eating
PlacedelHorlogestouristycafesonlyhavesosofood.Restaurantsopensevendaysduringthesummerfestivalseason,whenreservations becomeessential.LocaltreatPapalinedAvignonisapinkchocolateballfilledwithpotentMontVentouxherballiqueur.
CuisineduDimanche PROVENAL
( 0490829910www.lacuisinedudimanche.com31rueBonneteriemains1525 dailyJunSep,TueSatOctMay)SpitfirechefMarie shopseverymorningatLesHallestofindthefreshestingredientsforherearthyflavourpackedcooking,andtakesnoculinaryshortcuts.The marketdrivenmenuchangesdaily,butspecialitiesincludescallopsandsimpleroastchickenwithpangravy.Thenarrowstonewalleddiningroom isamishmashoftexturescontemporaryresinchairstoantiquecrystalgobletsbefittingthechefseclecticism.Reserve.
ChristianEtienne PROVENAL
( 0490861650www.christianetienne.fr10ruedeMonslunchmenus31150,dinnermenus75150 lunch&dinnerTueSat)One ofAvignonstoptables,thismuchvauntedrestaurantoccupiesa12thcenturypalace,withaleafyoutdoorterrace,adjacenttoPalaisdesPapes. Interiorsfeelslightlydated,buttherefinedProvenalcuisineremainsexceptional,notablythesummertimeonlystartertodesserttomatomenu. Reserve.
LAtelierdeDamien MODERNFRENCH
( 049082573554rueGuillaumePuylunch/dinnermenus13.50/26 lunchMonSat,dinnerWedSat)Unframedpaintingsandworn tilefloorslendarougharoundtheedgeslooktothisoffthetouristradarrestaurantonAvignonslessglamorousside.ChefDamienDemazure oncecookedunderAlainDucasse,anddrawsinspirationfrommarketfreshingredients,combiningFrenchwithAsianginger,lemongrassand corianderarehisfavourites.Expectexcellentfish,foiegrasandcaramelcandycake.Bookahead.
FoudeFafa BISTRO
( 043276351317ruedesTroisFauconsmenus2226 dinnerWedSun )TheclassicFrenchbistro,FoudeFafasstrengthliesin simplicityfreshingredients,brightflavours,andconvivialsurroundings.Expectawarmwelcome(inEnglish!)andfreshspinsonclassicdishes. Reserveahead.
LEpiceandLove FRENCH
( 049082459630ruedesLicesmains1112 dinnerMonSat)Tablesarecheekbyjowlatthistinybohemianrestaurantour favouriteforbudgetdiningwithnothingfancy,juststraightforwardbistrofare:stews,roastsandotherreliablygood,homestyleFrenchdishes. Cashonly.
AVIGNONPASS
Themusthavediscountcard,AvignonPassion,providesdiscountsonmuseums,tours,andmonumentsinAvignonandVilleneuvelsAvignon.Thefirst attractionvisitedcostsfullprice,buteachsubsequentsitediscountsadmissionby10%to50%.Thefreepasscoversfivesites,andisvalid15days. Availablefromthetouristofficeandtouristsites.
Numro75 MODERNFRENCH
0490271600www.numero75.com75rueGuillaumePuymenus28.5034.50,mains1625 lunch&dinnerMonSat)Thechicdining room,intheformermansionofabsintheinventorJulesPernod,isafittingbackdropforstylizedMediterraneancooking.Menuschangenightlyand onlyincludethreemains,butbrevityguaranteesfreshness.Onbalmynights,bookthecourtyardgarden.
LeGrandCaf MEDITERRANEAN
( 0490868677www.legrandcaferestaurant.frcoursMariaCasarslunch/dinnermenus18/28 lunch&dinnerTueSatSepMay, TueSunJunAug)Hiddenbehindthepalace,thisbohochicbistrobarwithabigterraceadjoinsartyculturalcentreLaManutention.Giantmirrors onroughhewnwallsreflectFrenchactorsportraitsandrowsofvintagetables.GoodvalueProvenalmenusprovideanalternativetomore touristyplacesuphill.
GinetteetMarcel CAFE
(27placedesCorpsSaintsdishes46 11am11pmWedMon)Tartines(openfacedsandwiches),tarts,saladandsoupcomprisethe menuatthishomeycafe,withfarmtables,vintagefloorsandbigwindowsoverlookingahappeningsquare.
LesHalles MARKET
(www.avignonleshalles.complacePie 7am1pmTueSun)Over40foodstallsshowcaseseasonalProvenalingredients.Cooking demonstrationsareheldSaturdaysat11am.
Drinking
UtopiaBar BAR
(4ruedesEscaliersSteAnne noonmidnight)BehindPalaisdesPapes,adjoininganarthousecinemaandjazzmusiccentre,Utopiadraws smartcrowdstoitsverandalinedwithredvelvetbanquettes.Idealfordrinksandlightbitespreorposttheatre.
CafelaScne CAFE
( 049086147019placeCrillon theresadancefloorandcabaret.
9am1am)OnprettyplaceCrillon,LaScnesoutdoortablesaregoodfordrinksandsmallbitesinside
LeCidCaf CAFE
( 0490823038www.lecidcafe.com11placedelHorloge DJbarbynight.OnbustlingplacedelHorloge.
11amlate)Styledwithanodtothediscoera,LeCidisanupbeatcafebyday,
LEsclave GAYBAR
0490851491www.esclavebar.com12rueduLimas
11pmdawnTueSun)Avignonsinnercitygaybargetsbusyafter11:30pm.
RedSky PUB
( 0490859323rueStJeanleVieux sports.
10am1am)AlittlebitofLondoninFrance,thischerryredEnglishpubhasthemenightsandTV
Entertainment
AvignonisthetheatrecapitalofFrance,withdozensoftheatresaroundtown.Thetouristofficehaslists.
AJMI LIVEMUSIC
(AssociationpourleJazz&laMusiqueImprovise 0490860861www.jazzalajmi.com4ruedesEscaliersSteAnnetickets1015) InsideLaManutentionartscentre,AJMIshowcasesimprovisationaljazzatitsintimate2ndfloor(noelevator)blackboxtheatre.Showsare generallyheldThursdayandFridayevenings,andSundayafternoons.
OpraThtredAvignon PERFORMINGARTS
( 0490828140www.operatheatredavignon.frplacedelHorloge boxoffice11am6pmTueSat)Builtin1847,Avignonsmainclassical venuepresentsoperas,plays,chambermusicandballetfromOctobertoJune.
CinmaUtopia CINEMA
( 0490826536www.cinemasutopia.org4ruedesEscaliersSteAnne)Fourscreen,arthousecinemashowsfilmsintheiroriginal language.
Information
HpitalGnralHenriDuffaut( trainstationtakebus3or6. 0432753333305rueRaoulFollereau)MarkedonmapsasHpitalSud,its2.5kmsouthofthecentral
PoliceStation(
043240555514bdStRoch)
TouristOffice( 0432743274www.avignontourisme.com)mainbranch(41coursJeanJaurs 9am6pmMonFri,9am5pmSat, 10amnoonSunNovMar,9am6pmMonSat,10am5pmSunAprOct)annex(LesHalles 10am1pmFriSun)
GettingThere&Away
AIRAvignonCaumontAirport( 0490815151www.avignon.aeroport.fr)About8kmsoutheastofAvignon.FlybeandCityjetflydirectfrom theUK. BUSTheundergroundbusstationisnexttothecentralrailwaystation.Ticketsaresoldonboard.Forschedules,seewww.lepilote.comand www.vaucluse.fr,bothwithgoodmobilesites.LonghaulcompaniesLinebs( 0490853048www.linebus.com)andEurolines( 0490 852760www.eurolines.com)haveofficesatthefarendofthebusplatforms.Services: Arles7,1hours,eightdaily Carpentras2,45minutes,halfhourly Nmes1.50,1hours,eightdaily Orange2,45minutes,every45minutes CAR&MOTORCYCLEFindcarhireagenciesattrainstations(reserveahead,especiallyforJuly).Narrowonewaystreetsandimpossible parkingmakedrivingwithintherampartsdifficult:parkoutsidethewalls.Thecityhas900freespacesatParkingdeLlePiot,and1150at ParkingdesItaliens,bothundersurveillanceandservedbyfreeshuttlebus(hoursatTCRA(Clickhere).Ondirectionalsignsatintersections,P inyellowmeanspayparkinglotsPingreen,freelots. TRAINAvignonhastwotrainstations:GareAvignonTGV,4kmsouthwestinCourtineandGareAvignonCentre(42bdStRoch),with servicestothefollowing: Arles6.50,20minutes,halfhourly MarseilleAirport(VitrollesStation)16,1hours,halfhourly Nmes8.50,30minutes,halfhourly Orange5.50,20minutes,halfhourly SomeTGVstoParis(75,3hours)stopatGareAvignonCentre,butTGVstoMarseille(29,35minutes)andNice(52.50,3hours)onlyuse GareAvignonTGV.InJulyandAugust,adirectEurostar(www.eurostar.com)serviceoperatesonSaturdaysto/fromLondon(from135,six hours). Luggagestorage(consignesdebaggages4.50per24hours)isavailableonlyatGareAvignonCentre.
GettingAround
TO/FROMTHEAIRPORTTCRAbus21(1.50,20minutes,MondaytoSaturdayonly)goestothepostoffice.Taxistothecentrecostabout25. BICYCLE&MOTORCYCLEVlopop( 0810456456www.velopop.fr)Sharedbicycleservice,with17stationsaroundtown.Pickupatone, returnatanother.Thefirsthalfhourisfreeeachadditionalhalfhour,1.Oneday/weekmembershipcosts1/3,plusrefundabledepositof150 onyourcreditcard.Signupbyphone,orusecreditcardmachinesatstations. ProvenceBike( 0490279261www.provencebike.com7avStRufbicyclesfromperday/week9/39)Rentscitybikes(9/39per day/week),mountainbikes(15/75),scooters(from25/75),andmotorcycles(from59/130). BUSTCRA(TransportsenCommundelaRgiondAvignon 0432741832www.tcra.fr)LocalTCRAbustickets,whichyoucanbuyon board,cost1.20.Busesrun7amtoabout7.40pm(lessfrequentlyonSundays,from8amto6pm).MainstransferpointsarePoste(mainpost office)andplacePie.ForVilleneuvelsAvignon,takebus11(bus70onSundays). AgenceCommercialeTCRA(avdeLattredeTassigny tickets(9.50). TAXITaxiRadioAvignon( 0490822020) 8.30am12.30pm&1.306pmMonFri)Formapsanddiscountedcarnetsof10
VilleneuvelsAvignon
POP12,664
ThirteenthcenturyVilleneuvelsAvignongazesacrosstheRhneatAvignonlikeawistfullittlesister.Entrancedbythebiggercityscharm,most visitorsbarelyglanceatVilleneuveyetitsmonumentsrivalAvignons,withnoneofthecrowds.However,thebestoptionsforsleepingandeating areinAvignon.
Sights
TheAvignonPassionpass(Clickhere)isvalidforVilleneuvelsAvignonssights.
JardinsdelAbbaye GARDEN
( 0490255595www.abbayesaintandre.comFortStAndradult/child5/free 10am12.30pm&26pmTueSun)Classedasoneof Francestop100gardens,privatelyownedJardinsdelAbbayeisbuiltatopvaultsofa10thcenturyabbey,withintheFortStAndr.Viewsof AvignonandtheRhnearespectacular.Pathwaysmeanderthroughfragrantroses,irisstuddedolivegroves,wisteriacoveredpergolas,andpast ruinsofthreeancientchurches.
CHTEAUNEUFDUPAPEWINES
CarpetsofvineyardsunfurlaroundthetinymedievalvillageofChteauneufduPape,epicentreofoneoftheworldsgreatwinegrowingregions.Onlya
smallruinremainsofthechteaualonewall,highonahilltoponcethesummerresidenceofAvignonspopes,laterbombedbyGermansinWWII.Nowit belongstopicnickersanddayhikerswhoascendthehilltoscouttheirlineswitha360degreepanorama. Thankgeologyfortheselusciouswines:whenglaciersreceded,theyleftgaletsscatteredatoptheredclaysoiltheselargepebblestraptheProvenal sun,releasingheataftersunsetandhelpinggrapesripenwithsteadywarmth.MostChteauneufduPapewinesareredonly6%arewhite(rosis forbidden).Strictregulations(whichformedthebasisfortheentireAppellationdOrigineProtgesystem)governproduction.Redscomefrom13different grapevarietiesgrenacheisthebiggieandshouldageatleastfiveyears.Thefullbodiedwhitesdrinkwellyoung(exceptforallrousannevarieties)and makeanexcellent,mineralaperitifwine,hardtofindanywhereelse(buttastebeforeyoubuy,assomemaylackacidity). Samplethematovertwodozenwineshopswithfreetastings(dgustationsgratuites),orbookatwohourwinetastingclassatcoledeDgustation (TastingSchool 0490835615www.oenologiemouriesse.com2ruedesPapes2hrcoursesfrom40).Thetouristoffice( 0490837108 www.paysprovence.frplaceduPortail 9.30am6pmMonSat,closedlunch&WedOctMay)hasabrochureofestates,showingwhichonesallowcellar visits,haveEnglishtours,allowdropinvisitorsandofferfreetastings. Perchedbeneaththeruinedchteau,LeVergerdesPapes( 04908350404rueduChteaumenus2030 hoursvary)hasknockoutvistas fromitsleafyterrace.Specialtiesincludesucculentrackoflambfortwo,andbeefentrecteservedwithmacaroniandcheesespikedwithcepmushrooms. Parkatthechteauandwalkdown.Reservationsessential. Makeaweekendofitbystayingina17thcenturyfarmhousesurroundedbyvineyards.EachroomatLeMasJulien( 0490349949www.mas julien.com704chemindeStJeanr/aptwithkitcheninclbreakfast110/130 )artfullyblendscontemporaryandProvenalstyle,andtheresa studioapartmentwithkitchenthatsleepsthree(add30forathirdperson).Afteradayexploring,nothingbeatssprawlingbythebigpool,glassofwinein hand.BetweenOrangeandChteauneufduPape,itsanidealbaseforanextendedstay.
Chartreusedu ValdeBndiction MONASTERY

( 0490152424www.chartreuse.org58ruedelaRpubliqueadult/child7.70/free 9.30am6.30pm)Shadedfromsummersheat,three cloisters,24cells,church,chapelsandnookandcrannygardensoftheChartreuseduValdeBndictionmakeupFrancesbiggestCarthusian monastery,foundedin1352byPopeInnocentVI,whowasburiedhere10yearslaterinanelaboratemausoleum.TodayLaChartreuseisa retreatforplaywrightsonresidencies.
FortStAndr FORT
( 0490254535adult/child5.50/free 10am12.30pm&26pm)KingPhiliptheFair(akaPhilippeleBel)wasntmessingaroundwhen hebuiltdefensive14thcenturyFortStAndronthethenborderbetweenFranceandtheHolyRomanEmpire:wallsare2mthick!Todayyoucan walkasmallsectionoftherampartsandadmire360degreeviewsfromtheTourdesMasques(WizardsTower)andToursJumelles(Twin Towers).
TourPhilippeleBel LANDMARK
( 0432700857adult/child2.20/free 10am12.30pm&2.306.30pmTueSun)KingPhilipcommissionedtheTourPhilippeleBel, 500moutsideVilleneuve,tocontroltrafficoverPontStBnzettoandfromAvignon.Steepstepsspiraltothetop,rewardingclimberswithsome trulymagnificentriverviews.
MusePierredeLuxembourg MUSEUM
( 04902749663ruedelaRpubliqueadult/child3.10/free 10.30am12.30pm&2.306.30pmTueSunMaySep,25pmOctDec, FebApr)Insidea17thcenturymansion,thismuseumsmasterworkisEnguerrandQuartonsTheCrowningoftheVirgin(1453),inwhichangels wrestsoulsfrompurgatory.Roundingoutthecollectionare16thto18thcenturypaintings.
GettingThere&Away
Bus11(70onSunday)linksVilleneuvelsAvignonwithAvignon(itsonly2km,butdullwalking).
Orange
POP30,627
ConsideringhowexceptionalOrangesRomantheatreis(ifyouseeonlyoneRomansiteinFrance,makeitthisone),theultraconservativetownis surprisinglyuntouristy,andeerilyquietinwinter.Accommodationisgoodvalue,comparedwithswankiertownslikeAvignon,butitsnearly impossibletofindanopenrestaurantonSundayorMondaynight. TheHouseofOrange,theprincelydynastythatruledOrangefromthe12thcentury,madeitsmarkonthehistoryoftheNetherlandsthrougha 16thcenturymarriagewiththeGermanHouseofNassau,andthenEnglishhistorythroughWilliamofOrange.OrangewascededtoFrancein 1713bytheTreatyofUtrecht.Tothisday,manymembersoftheroyalhouseoftheNetherlandsareknownastheprincesandprincessesof OrangeNassau.
Sights
ThtreAntique ROMANSITES
(www.theatreantique.comadult/child8.50/6.50,2ndchildfree 9am6pmMarOct,9am4.30pmNovFeb)OrangesRomantheatreis FrancesmostimpressiveRomansite.Itssheersizeandageareaweinspiring:designedfor10,000spectators,itsbelievedtohavebeenbuilt duringAugustusCaesarsrule(27BCtoAD14).The103mwide,37mhighstagewallisoneofthreeintheworldstillstandinginentirety(others areinSyriaandTurkey)minusafewmosaics,plusanewroof. Admissionincludesa10languageaudioguide,andaccesstoMusedOrange( 0490511760museumonlyadult/child5.50/4.50 9am6pmMarOct,9am4.30pmNovFeb),oppositethetheatre,whichhasunassumingtreasures,includingportionsoftheRomansurvey registers(precursortothetaxdepartment)andfriezesthatonceformedpartofthetheatresscenery.
Comeforepictheatricalspectaculars,includingthefabulousChorgiesdOrange(www.choregies.asso.frtickets50240),aninternational operafestivalinJulybalmynightsinthismillenniaoldvenuearemagical.
ArcdeTriomphe ROMANSITES
(www.theatreantique.com)Oranges1stcenturyADmonumentalarch,theArcdeTriomphe,standsontheViaAgrippa,19mhighandwide,and 8mthick.Restoredin2009,itsbrilliantreliefscommemorate49BCRomanvictorieswithcarvingsofchained,nakedGauls.
CollineStEutrope GARDEN
ForbirdseyeviewsofthetheatreandphenomenalvistasofMontVentouxandtheDentellesdeMontmirailfollowmontePhilbertdeChalons ormonteLambertupCollineStEutrope(StEutropeHillelevation97m),oncetheRomanslookoutpoint.Enroute,passruinsofa12thcentury chteau,oncetheresidenceoftheprincesofOrange.
Sleeping
HtelArne HOTEL
( 0490114040www.hotelarene.frplacedeLangesd88132 )WiththebestandbiggestbathroomsinOrange,theArneis theclosestyoullgettobusinessclass.Despitesomegenericfurnishings,thehotelretainssomeindividuality,andhasanentirefloorofhypo allergenicrooms.Kidslovethetwoheatedpools(oneindoors,oneout)parentsappreciatethefamilysizerooms.Requestaremodelledroom butolderonesarealsoverycomfortable.
LeGlacier HOTEL
( 0490340201www.leglacier.com46coursAristideBriandd50110 )All28roomsareindividuallydecoratedandimpeccably maintainedbythecharmingowners,whopayattentiontodetail.Alsorentsbikes(halfday/day12/16)andhassecure,freebikeparking.
HtelSaintJean HOTEL
( 0490511556www.hotelsaintjean.com1coursPourtouless6070,d7085,t80100,q90120 )Simple,spiffyhotelwith comfortableproportionsandcolourfulProvenalfabrics.Nexttothetheatre.Freebikestorage,doublepanewindowsandflatscreenTVsadd value.
HtellHerbierdOrange HOTEL
( 0490340923www.lherbierdorange.com8placeauxHerbess/d/trinclbreakfast59/69/79 )Friendly,enthusiasticownerskeep thissmall,central,basichotellookingspickandspan,withdoublepanewindowsandgleamingbathrooms.Eveningaperitifisincluded.
CampingLeJonquier CAMPGROUND
( 0490344948www.campinglejonquier.com1321rueAlexisCarrel2people2026 EasterSep )Goodforactivetravellers: pool,minigolf,tennis,tabletennis,hottubFromtheArcdeTriomphe,walk100mnorth,turnleftontorueduBourbonnais,thenrightatthesecond roundaboutontorueAlexisCarrel,thenits300maheadontheleft.
Eating
StallsfillthetowncentreeveryThursdayfortheweeklymarket.
laMaison BISTRO
( 04906098834placedesCordelierslunchmenus12.5015,dinnermenus2532,mains1016 lunch&dinnerMonSat) Theresnolovelierspotonawarmnightthantheleafyfountaincourtyardatthissimplebistro,whichservesconsistentlygoodhomestylecooking butitopenssporadically.
AuPetitPatio TRADITIONALFRENCH
( 049029692758coursAristideBriandlunchmenus1825,dinnermenus2535 lunch&dinnerMon,Tue&ThuSat,lunchWed) Agoodspotforalingeringlunch(menusincludewineandcoffee)oranindulgentdinner(foiegrasishomemade)withexcellentservice,AuPetit Patiohasacharmingoutdoorterrace,whichlacksshade:bookatableinsideonhotdays.
LeForum TRADITIONALFRENCH
( 04903401093rueMazeaulunchmenus1519,dinnermenus29 lunchTueFri&Sun,dinnerTueSun)Classicdishes,likebeef filetwithmorelsauce,arewellexecuted,buttheroomfeelscrampedsitoutsideifavailable.Goodforaquietdate.
LeParvis GASTRONOMIC
( 049034820055coursPourtouleslunchmenus1219,dinnermenus2344 lunch&dinnerTueSat,lunchSun)Nobodyspeaks aboveawhisperatOrangestoptable,whichservesexcellentfoodatgoodvaluenevermindthefrostyreception.
LaRoselire BISTRO
(3rueduRenoyermains1215 TueSat)Bricabraccrowdstheceiling,andthechefownershoutsjokesatdinersexpense,butbyyour secondglassofwineyoullbelaughingalong,unlessyoureshy,inwhichcasedontcome.Expectclassicslikelentilsandsausages.Cashonly.
Information
TouristOffice( 0490347088www.otorange.fr5coursAristideBriand 9am6.30pm,closedSunOctMar)Hotelbookings.
GettingThere&Around
BICYCLESportaventure( 0490347508,mobile0610335654www.velolocationaventure.complacedelaRpubliquehalf day/day/week12/18/69)Centralbikeshopdeliverswithin20kmradius. BUSBusStation( 0490341559201coursPourtoules) TransVaucluse(http://vaucluse.fr)BusesoperatedbyAutocarsLieutaud(Clickhere)serveAvignon(2,45minutes)andVaisonlaRomaine (2,45minutes). TRAINOrangestrainstation(www.voyagessncf.comavFrdricMistral)is1.5kmeastofthetowncentre.Services: Avignon5.80,20minutes Lyon29.30,2hours Marseille23,1hours MarseilleAirportVitrollesstation20,1hours
VaisonlaRomaine
POP6392
Tuckedbetweensevenhills,VaisonlaRomainehaslongbeenatraditionalexchangecentre,andstillhasathrivingTuesdaymarket.Thevillages richRomanlegacyisquitevisible20thcenturybuildingsrisealongsideFranceslargestarchaeologicalsite.ARomanbridgecrossestheRiver Ouvze,dividingthecontemporarytownspedestrianisedcentreandthewalled,cobbledstreethilltopCitMdivaleoneofProvencesmost magicalancientvillages,wherethecountsofToulousebuilttheir12thcenturycastle.VaisonisagoodbaseforjauntsintotheDentellesde MontmirailandMontVentoux,buttouriststhronghereinsummer:reserveahead.
Sights
GalloRomanRuins ROMANSITES
(adult/child8/3.50 closedJanearlyFeb)TheruinedremainsofVasioVocontiorum,theRomancitythatflourishedherebetweenthe6thand 2ndcenturiesBC,filltwocentralVaisonsites.Twoneighbourhoodsofthisonceopulentcity,PuyminandLaVillasse,lieoneithersideofthe touristofficeandavduGnraldeGaulle.Admissionincludesafourlanguageaudioguide,coveringtheRomanruins,museum,Cathdrale NotreDameandmedievalcity. InPuymin,seehousesofthenobility,mosaics,workersquarters,temple,andstillfunctioning6000seatThtreAntique(cAD20).Tomake senseoftheremains(andcollectyouraudioguide),headforthearchaeologicalmuseum,whichrevivesVaisonsRomanpastwithincredible swagsuperbmosaics,carvedmasks,andstatuesthatincludea3rdcenturysilverbustandmarblerenderingsofHadrianandwifeSabina. TheRomansshoppedatthecolonnadedboutiquesandbathedatLaVillasse,whereyoullfindMaisonauDauphin,whichhassplendid marblelinedfishponds. Admissionincludesentrytothesoothing12thcenturyRomanesquecloisteratCathdraleNotreDamedeNazareth(cloisteronly1.50 10am12.30pm&26pmMarDec),afiveminutewalkwestofLaVillasseandarefugefromthesummerheat.
CitMdivale HISTORICQUARTER
CrossthePontRomain(Romanbridge)inthefootstepsoffrightenedmedievalpeasants,whoclamberedtothewalledcityduringvalleyconflicts. Steepcobblestonealleywayswendbeneathstonerampartsanda14thcenturybelltowerpastromanticfountainsandmansionswithincredibly carveddoorways.Continueuphilltotheimposing12thcenturychteau(guidedtoursinFrench2),whereyourclimbisrewardedwitheagleeye vistascheckwiththetouristofficeforopeninghours.
Festival&Events
Choralies MUSICFESTIVAL
(www.choralies.fr)EuropeslargestchoralfestivalisheldinAugusteverythreeyears.Upcoming:2013and2016.
FestivaldesChursLaurats MUSICFESTIVAL
(www.festivaldeschoeurslaureats.com lateJul)ThebestchoirsinEurope.
Sleeping
Thetouristofficehaslistsofchambresdhteandselfcontainedaccommodation.
HtelLeBurrhus DESIGNHOTEL
( 0490360011www.burrhus.com1placedeMontfortd5587 )OnVaisonsvibrantcentralsquare,thishotelmaylookquaintandold, butinsideits38roomshaveultramoderndecorwithdesignerfittings,originalartworkandmosaicbathrooms.Noelevator.Parking(7)by reservation.
Lvch B&B
( 0490361346http://eveche.free.frruedelvchd92140)Withgroaningbookshelves,vaultedceilings,higgledypiggledystaircase, intimatesalonsandexquisiteart,thisfiveroomchambredhte,inthemedievalcity,isfabulouslyatmospheric.KnowledgableownersJeanLoup andAudealsolendbikes.
LcoleBuissonire B&B
( 0490289519www.buissonniereprovence.comD75,Buissons4852,d6070,tr7585q9096 )FiveminutesnorthofVaison, inthecountrysidebetweenBuissonandVilledieu,hostsMoniqueandJohnhavetransformedtheirstonefarmhouseintoatastefullydecorated threebedroomB&B,longoncomfort.Breakfastfeatureshomemadejam,andtheresanoutdoorsummerkitchen.
HostellerieLeBeffroi HISTORICHOTEL
( 0490360471www.lebeffroi.comruedelvchd96150,tr180 AprJan )Withinthemedievalcityswalls,thishostellerie, datingfrom1554,fillstwobuildings(theneweronewasbuilt1690).Afairytalehideaway,itsroughhewnstoneandwoodbeamedroomsare small,butromantic,anditsrestaurantopensontoaroseandherbgardenwithkidsswings.Parking10.
CampingduThtreRomain CAMPGROUND
( 0490287866www.campingtheatre.comchemindeBrusquetcampingper2people21 ThtreAntique.Verysunny,buttheresapool. midMarmidNov )Oppositethe
Eating
MoulinHuile GASTRONOMIC
( 0490362067www.moulinhuile.comquaiMarchalFochlunchmenus40,dinnermenus6070 lunch&dinnerTueSat,lunch Sun)MichelinstarredChefRobertBardotshowcasesgastronomicprowessinaformeroliveoilmillbeneaththeCitMdievale.Sampleavariety ofdisheswiththe75tastingmenu.Insummer,dineoutdoorsontheriversideterrace(nevermindtheplasticchairs).Makeanightofitinoneof threehandsomeguestrooms(130150).
LaLyriste PROVENAL
( 049036046745coursTaulignanmenus1836 WedSun)ThecontemporaryProvenalmenuatthischarmingbistroemphasises seasonalandregionalingredientsindishesrangingfrombourride(fishstew)toafoiegrastastingmenu(36).Insummer,bookatableonthe terrace.
TerrassesdeNinou BISTRO
(www.lesterrassesdeninou.fr3placeThodoreAubaneldishes724 lunch&dinnerdailyAprOct,lunchFeb&Mar)Theterraceatthis simplebistrohasstellarviewsovertheriverandmedievalcity.Themenulistssimpleseasonaldishesbetweenmealtimes,therearecrpes, pizzasandtarts.
Information
TouristOffice( 0490360211www.vaisonventouxtourisme.complaceduChanoineSautel round,plus9:30amnoonSunAprmidOct)Helpsbookrooms. 9:30amnoon&25.45pmMonSatyear
GettingThere&Away
AutocarsLieutaud(Clickhere)busesserveOrange(2,onehour)andAvignon(viaOrange4,twohours).TransdevComtadins( 049067 2025www.sudestmobilites.fr)busesserveCarpentras(2,45minutes)andMalaucne(1,30minutes).Forschedules,seewww.vaucluse.fr. ThebusstopisonavenuedesChoralies,400meastofthetouristoffice.
MontVentoux&Around
Visibleformilesaround,MontVentoux(1912m),nicknamedlegantdeProvence(Provencesgiant),standslikeasentinelovernorthern Provence.Fromitssummit,accessiblebyroadbetweenMayandOctober(thewhiteglimmeringstuffyouseeinsummerarelauzes,brokenwhite stones,notsnow),vistasextendtotheAlpsand,onaclearday,theCamargue. Becauseofthemountainsdimensions,everyEuropeanclimatetypeispresentonitsslopes,fromMediterraneanonitslowersouthernreaches toArcticonitsexposednorthernridge.Asyouascendtherelentlessgradients(whichregularlyfeatureintheTourdeFrance),temperaturescan plummetby20C,andtherestwiceasmuchprecipitationasontheplainsbelow.Therelentlessmistralwindblows130daysayear,sometimesat aspeedof250km/h.Sobringwarmclothesandraingear,eveninsummer. Thisclimaticpatchworkisreflectedinthemountainsdiversefaunaandflora,whichisnowactivelyprotectedbyUnescoBiosphereReserve status. PiercingtheskytothewestofMontVentouxarethespectacularlimestonepinnaclesofanotherwalkersparadise,DentellesdeMontmirail. OntheothersideoftheDentellessitsthesnugvillageofBeaumesdeVenise,hometoFrancesfinestmuscat.Thevillagestouristoffice( 0490629439www.otbeaumesdevenise.complaceduMarch 9amnoon&27pmMonSat,to5pmwinter)hasdetailsoflocalvineyards. ThreeprincipalgatewaysBdoin,MalaucneandSaultprovideservicesinsummer,buttheyrefarapart.
Activities
Walking
TheGR4crossestheDentellesdeMontmirailbeforescalingMontVentouxnorthernface,whereitmeetstheGR9.Bothtraversetheridge.The GR4brancheseastwardstoGorgesduVerdontheGR9crossestheVaucluseMountainstotheLuberon.Theessentialmapfortheareais 3140ETMontVentouxbyIGN(www.ign.fr).Bdoinstouristoffice(Clickhere)stocksatopographicmap(7),detailing14walksforalllevels findcorrespondingtrailmarkersenroute. InJulyandAugust,touristofficesinBdoinandMalaucnefacilitatenighttimeexpeditionsupthemountaintoseethesunrise(over15years only).
Cycling
TouristofficesdistributeLesItinrairesVentoux,afreemapdetailing11itinerarieseasytodifficulthighlightingartisanalfarmsenroute.For morecyclingtrails,seewww.lemontventoux.net. AtVentouxBikePark(www.facebook.com/VentouxBikeParkbikeparkaccessbefore2pm14,after2pm10 9:30am4:30pmMar Nov),nearthesummitatChaletReynard,thrillseekingbicyclistsascendviaaropetow,thendescendrampsandjumpsdownthreetrails,from beginnertoadvanced.Bringyourownmountainbikehelmetandfulllengthglovesrequired.BdoinLocation( 0490659453www.bedoin location.frplacePortailOlivier,Bdoin MarNov)deliverstothesummit,andrentsequipment.Otherrentaloutlets: LaRouteduVentoux( 0490670740www.larouteduventoux.comrteduVentoux,Bdoinroadbikes/mountainbikes/tandemsperhalf dayfrom25/15/30 AprNov) VentouxBikes( 0490625819www.ventouxbikes.fr1avdeVerdun,Malaucne AprNov) AlbionCycles( 0490640932www.albioncycles.comrtedeStTrinit,Sault dailyJulAug,TueSunSepJun)
Information
Everyvillageintheareahasatouristoffice,butthefollowingresourcesarealsohandy: DestinationVentoux(www.destinationventoux.com)
VENTOUXLAVENDER
TheisolatedbutcharmingvillageofSault(population1285)hasincrediblesummertimevistasoverlavenderfields.Saultstouristoffice(Clickhere)has listsofartisanallavenderproducers,suchasGAECChampelle( 0490640150www.gaecchampelle.frrtedeVentoux),aroadsidestandnorthwest oftown,sellinglavenderproductsgalore.
ProvenceCycling(www.provencecycling.com) ProvencedesPapes(www.hautvaucluse.com) BdoinTouristOffice( 0490656395www.bedoin.orgEspaceMarieLouisGravier 9am12.30pm&26pmMonSat,9.30am 12.30pmSunmidJunAug)Excellentinformationsourceonallregionalactivitiesalsohelpswithlodging. MalaucneTouristOffice( 0490652259http://villagemalaucene.free.frplacedelaMairie 9.15am12.15pm&2.305.30pmMon Fri,9amnoonSat)StocksinfoonMontVentoux,but(surprisingly)nottheDentelles. SaultTouristOffice( 0490640121www.saultenprovence.comavdelaPromenade 9amnoon&25pmMonSat)Goodresourcefor Ventoux.
GettingThere&Around
ReachMontVentouxbycarfromSaultviatheD164or(summeronly)fromMalaucneorStEstveviatheD974,oftenblockedbysnowuntil April.
Carpentras
POP29,709
TrytovisitCarpentrasonaFridaymorning,whenthestreetsspilloverwithmorethan350stallsladenwithbread,honey,cheese,olives,fruitanda rainbowofberlingots,Carpentrasstriped,pillowshapedhardboiledsweets.Duringwinterthepungenttrufflemarketmurmurswithhushedtone transactions.TheseasoniskickedoffbyCarpentrasbiggestfair,heldduringtheFtedeStSiffreinon27November,whenmorethan1000 stallsspreadacrosstown. Marketsaside,thisslightlyrundownagriculturaltownhasahandfulofarchitecturaltreats.AGreektradingcentreandlateraGalloRomancity,it becamepapalterritoryin1229,andwasalsoshapedbyastrongJewishpresence,asJewswhohadbeenexpelledfromFrenchcrownterritory tookrefugehere.The14thcenturysynagogueistheoldeststillinuseinFrance.
Sights
SynagoguedeCarpentras SYNAGOGUE
( 0490633997placeJuiverie 10amnoon&35pmMonThu,1011.30am&34pmFri)Carpentrasremarkablesynagoguedatesto 1367.Thewoodpanelledprayerhallwasrebuiltin18thcenturyBaroquestyledownstairsareancientbreadbakingovens,useduntil1904. AlthoughJewswereinitiallywelcomedintopapalterritory,bythe17thcenturytheywereforcedtoliveinghettosinAvignon,Carpentras,Cavaillon andLIslesurlaSorgue.Thesynagogueisoppositethetownhallitsdeliberatelyinconspicuousfrontageismarkedbyastoneplaqueinscribedin Hebrew.Foraccess,youmustringthedoorbellonlyonthehalfhour,ornobodywillanswer.Closedreligiousholidays.
CathdraleStSiffrein CATHEDRAL
(placeStSiffrein 8amnoon&26pmMonSat,closedduringservices)Carpentrascathedralwasbuiltbetween1405and1519in meridionalGothicstyle,butiscrownedbyadistinctivecontemporarybelltower.ItsTrsordArtSacr(TreasuryofReligiousArt)holdsprecious 14thto19thcenturyreligiousrelicsthatyoucanonlyseeduringtheFtedeStSiffreinandonguidedwalkswiththetouristoffice.
ArcRomain ROMANSITES
HiddenbehindCathdraleStSiffrein,theArcRomainwasbuiltunderAugustusin1stcenturyADandisdecoratedwithworncarvingsofenslaved Gauls.
Sleeping&Eating
HtelduFiacre HOTEL
( 0490630315www.hoteldufiacre.com153rueVigned72110 reception8am9pm )Thefadedgrandeurofthis18thcentury mansionischarmingfromitsmarblestaircasetothecanopiedbeds.Outsidetheresalovelysunnycourtyard.Goodserviceandvalue.Parking costs7.
HotelleComtadin HOTEL
( 0490677500www.lecomtadin.com65bdAlbinDurands7075,d90125,tr120135 )Formerlyaprivatemansion,nowa freshlookingmidrangesmallhotelundertheBestWesternbanner,LeComtadinsbestroomsfaceaninteriorcourtyardlessexpensiverooms facethestreet,buthavedoublepanewindows.Parkingcosts10.
LaCiboulette PROVENAL
( 049060750030placedelHorlogelunch/dinnermenusfrom18/24 TueSun)UpmarketLaCiboulettehasdramaticwoodbeamed ceilingsandafloweredoutdoorpatio.Theopenkitchenuseslocalingredients,breathingnewlifeintooldclassicssaveroomforthelavender flavouredcrmebrle.
ChezSerge PROVENAL
( 0490632124www.chezserge.com90rueCottierlunch/dinnermenus17/35 lunchSunFri,dinnerMonSat)Thissmartlittle courtyardrestaurantplaysatshabbychicwithdistressedwoodandgranite,lendinganearthinesscomplementingtheterroircooking:thisisthe placetosampletrufflebasedmenus.
Information
TouristOffice(www.carpentrasventoux.com97placedu25Aot1944toursadult/child4/2.50 9.30am12.30pm&26pmMonSatyear round,plus9.30am1pmSunJul&Aug)Excellentwebsitemultilingualguidedtours.ThefreeEnglishlanguageDiscoveryCircuitbrochure detailsaberlingotthemedwalkingcircuit.
GettingThere&Away
BUSThebusstation(placeTerradou)is150msouthwestofthetouristoffice,whichhasschedules(orseehttp://vaucluse.fr).Servicesoperated byTransdevComtadins( 0490672025www.sudestmobilites.fr)andVoyagesArnaud( 0490630182www.voyagesarnaud carpentras.com8avVictorHugo): AixenProvence11,1hours Avignon2,40minutes Cavaillon3,45minutes LIslesurlaSorgue2,35minutes Marseille15,twohours Orange2,55minutes VaisonlaRomaine2,45minutesviaMalaucne2,35minutes CARTheresfreeparkingnortheastofthetouristoffice,alongavJeanJaurs.
FontainedeVaucluse
POP610
FrancesmostpowerfulspringsurgesoutofnowhereabovetheprettylittlevillageofFontainedeVaucluse.Alltherainthatfallswithin1200sqkm gushesouthereastheRiverSorgue.Themiraculousappearanceofthiscrystalclearflooddraws1.5milliontouristseachyearaimtoarriveearly inthemorningbeforethetrickleofvisitorsbecomesadeluge.
Sights
LaFontaine SPRING
Atthefootofcraggycliffs,aneasy1kmwalkfromthevillage,theRiverSorguesurgesfromtheearthsdepths.Thespringismostdazzlingafter heavyrain,whenwaterglowsazureblue,wellingupatanincredible90cumetrespersecond.Indroughttimesthenormallysurgingholelookslike somethingoutofaHarryPotterbook,witheerilycalmemeraldwater.JacquesCousteauwasamongthosewhoattemptedtoplumbthesprings depths,beforeanunmannedsubmarineeventuallytouchedbase(315mdown)in1985butthespringsdepthsremainlargelyuncharted.
MusedHistoire19391945 WWIIMUSEUM
( 0490202400chemindelaFontaineadult/child3.50/1.50 10am6pmWedMonAprOct&JanFeb,Sat&SunMar,Nov&Dec) AnexcellentexaminationoflifeinoccupiedFranceduringWWII.BesuretorequestanEnglishlanguagebrochure.
Activities
TheglassySorgueisabeautyforcanoeingonasummersday.Twocompaniesofferguidedorselfguidedtwohourtrips(adult/child17/12)to LIslesurlaSorgue,8kmdownstream,fromlateApriltoOctober.Afterwards,yourereturnedupstreambyminibustoyourcar.Canalsobe doneinreverse.ContactCanovasion( 0490382622www.canoeevasion.netrtedeFontainedeVaucluse),ontheD24towards Lagnes,orKayakVert( 0490203544www.canoefrance.comQuartierlaBaume),whichis1kmoutoftownontheD25towardLagnes).
Sleeping&Eating
HtelduPote HISTORICHOTEL
( 0490203405www.hoteldupoete.comr95240 midFebDec )Driftasleeptothesoundofrushingwateratthiselegantsmall hotel,situatedinsidearestoredmillontheriversbanks.Byday,liebythepoolsideinthesundappledshadeamongtheparklikegrounds.
GIGONDAS
WinecellarsandcafessurroundthesundappledcentralsquareofGigondas(population598),famousforprestigiousredwine.Thetouristoffice( 04 90658546www.gigondasdm.frrueduPortail 10am12.30pm&2.306.30pmMonSatyearround,plus10am1pmSunJul&Aug)hasalistof wineries.Intown,CaveaudeGigondas( 0490658229placeGabrielAndol 10amnoon&26.30pm)represents100smallproducersandoffers freetastingsmostbottlescostjust12to14.WinetastinghereprovidesanexcellentcounterpointtoChteauneufduPape(Clickhere):bothusethe samegrapes,butthesoilisdifferent.
PtrarqueetLaure BRASSERIE
( 0490203148placeColonnelunch/dinnermenusfrom17/26)FontainedeVauclusesrestaurantstendtowardthetouristiquethisone isnoexception,butmanagestoservereasonablypriced,goodqualityfood(trythelocaltrout).Thecourtyardhasmesmerisingriverviews.
Information
TouristOffice(www.otidelasorgue.frRsidenceGarcin 10am1pm&26pmMaySep,MonSatOctApr)
GettingThere&Around
BICYCLEThetouristofficehasEnglishlanguagebrochuresdetailingthreeeasybackroadbikingroutes.BikeshopsinLIslesurlaSorgue (8kmwest)delivertoFontaine. BUSVoyagesRaoux(www.voyagesraoux.fr)busesserveAvignon(2,onehour)andLIslesurlaSorgue(1,20minutes). CARThenarrowroadtoGordes(14km,20minutes)fromFontainedeVauclusemakesascenic,lesstravelledalternativetoreachtheLuberon. Parkingintowncosts3.50.
THELUBERON
ThepictureperfectareathatmakesuptheLuberonisrectangularonamap,butnavigatingitsbucolicrollinghills,goldenhuedperchedvillages andhiddenvalleysisabitlikefittingtogetherajigsawpuzzle.TheLuberonisnamedafteritsmainmountainrange,whichissplitinthecentreby theCombedeLourmarin,abeautifulnarrowrivervalley.Luberonshues,fragrancesandflavourssubtlytransformintunewiththeseasons. Theregionscapital,Apt,isacentralhubforpracticalities,buttheheartoftheLuberonisinthetinystonevillagesfanningoutacrossthe countryside,whichencompassestheParcNaturelRgionalduLuberon,theAbbayedeSnanqueofpostcardfameandancient,stonebories (drywalledhuts).Luberonisbestseenwithyourownwheels(motorisedorlegpoweredseep)asthereisvirtuallynopublictransport.
Apt
POP11,500
SleepylittleAptcomesaliveduringitsSaturdaymorningmarketbrimmingwithlocalspecialities,otherwiseitsprimarilyahubforshopping.
Sights
MusedelAventureIndustrielle duPaysdApt AGRICULTURALMUSEUM
(IndustrialHistoryMuseum 049074953014placeduPosteladult/child4/free 10amnoon&36.30pmMon&WedSatyearround, plus37pmSunJunSep)GainanappreciationforAptsartisanalandagriculturalrootsatthisconvertedcandiedfruitfactory.Thewellcurated museuminterpretsthefruitandcandyingtrade,aswellasochreminingandearthenwareproductionfromthe18thcentury.
ConfiserieKerry Aptunion SWEETSFACTORY

( 0490763143www.lesfleuronsapt.comD900,QuartierSalignan shop9am12.30pm&1.306.30pmMonSatAprJun&SepNov, 8.30am7pmdailyJul,Aug&Dec,closedJanMar)ThirtytonnesofcherriesarecandieddailyattheConfiserieKerryAptunion,theworlds largestcrystallisedfruitfactory,2.5kmwestoftown.Freetastingsandtours.
LISLESURLASORGUE
AmoatofflowingwaterencirclestheancientandprosperoustownofLIslesurlaSorgue,7kmwestofFontaine.ThisVeniceofProvenceisstuffedto burstingwithantiqueshops:disusedmillsandfactoriesalongthemainroadcontainsevenantiquesvillages( 10am6pmSatMon),whichhouse around300dealers.Forbargains,thegiantfourdayantiquesfairsheldinmidAugustandoverEasterarethebestbet.
Sleeping
LeCouvent B&B
( 0490045536www.loucouvent.com36rueLouisRoussetd95130 )Behindagardenwallinthecobbledtowncentre,this enormousfiveroommaisondhteoccupiesacirca17thcenturyformerconvent,andoffersexceptionalvalueandsenseofplacebreakfastis servedinavaultedstonediningroom.Oneroomhasaircon.
HtelSainteAnne HOTEL
( 0490741804www.apthotel.fr62placeFaubourgduBalletr79109 )Lovelysevenroomhotelina19thcenturydwelling, completelyredonein2010.Spotless,crispattheedgesroomsmixmodernandtraditionalfurnishings,withexceptionalbedsandbigbathtubs (thoughsmalltoilets).Littleextrasincludehomemadejamsandbreads,madebythecharmingowner,servedaspartofthecopiousbreakfasts (10).Parking10.
HtellePalais HOTEL
( 0490048932www.hotellepalais.com24bisplaceGabrielPris/d/ste55/65/95)Friendlynewownersayoungfamilyarebreathing
lifeintothisoldfashionedwalkupbudgethotelitstatteredattheedges,butontheupandcleanthereswifiinthebreakfastroom.
Eating
LeFournilduLuberon BOULANGERIE
( 0490742052placedelaBouquerie grains,calledsimplybl. 7am7pmTueSat,7am1pmSun)Aptsbestbakerymakesrusticbreadusinglocalheritage
Thym,TeVoil BISTRO
( 0490742825http://thymtevoila.free.fr59rueStMartinmains1013 lunch&dinnerTueSat )Theearthy,marketdrivenmenus atthiscoloursplashedcontemporarybistroarefilledwithEurocentricworldcookingthatreflectstheseasons.Tablesoutsidecosyuptoapretty, sunnysquare.
LePlatane MODERNFRENCH
( 049004743629placeJulesFerrylunchmenus1416,dinnermenus29 )Everythingismadefromscratchatthissimple,decent restaurant,whichusesqualityingredientsinitschangingFrenchmenus.Theleafyterraceisgoodonbalmynights.
Information
TouristOffice( 0490740318www.luberonapt.fr20avPhilippedeGirard 9.30amnoon&2.306.30pmMonSat,9.30am12.30pm Sun)Excellentsourceofinformationforactivities,excursionsandwalksmakeshotelbookings. MaisonduParc( 0490044200www.parcduluberon.fr60placeJeanJaurs 8.30amnoon&1.306pmMonFriyearround,plus 9amnoonSatAprSep)InformationandmapsforhikesofthesurroundingParcNaturelRgionalduLuberon.Outstandingpalaeontologyexhibits ontheregionsnaturalhistory.
GettingThere&Around
BICYCLELuberonCycles( MonSat) AixenProvence2,twohours Avignon2,1hours Cavaillon2,45minutes 048669190086quaiGnralLeclercbicyclerentalhalfday/dayfrom12/16 9amnoon&26pm
BUSThebusstation(250avdelaLibration)iseastofcitycentre.TransVaucluse(www.vaucluse.fr)services:
NorthofApt
GORDES&AROUND
ForminganamphitheatreovertheRiversSorgueandCalavon,thetieredvillageofGordes(population2159)sitsspectacularlyonthewhiterock faceoftheVaucluseplateau.Intheearlyevenings,thevillageistheatricallylitbythesettingsun,turningthestonebuildingsashimmeringgold. Gordeshastopbillingonmanytouristsmustseelists(particularlythoseofhighprofileParisians),sohighseasonseesacavalcadeofcoaches.
Sights AbbayeNotreDamedeSnanque CHURCH

( 0490720572www.abbayedesenanque.comguidedtourinFrenchadult/student/child/family7/5/3/20 toursbyreservation) FamouslyframedbylavenderinJuly,theexteriorofthisisolatedCistercianabbey,4kmnorthwestofGordesofftheD177,appearsonevery postcardrackinProvence.Theabbeywasfoundedin1148anditremainsinhabitedbymonks.Reservationsareessentialtovisittheaustere interiorsconservativedressandsilencearerequired. Itsa1hourwalkfromGordesontheGR6trail,oraslow,windingdrivethatistreacherousinrain.
VillagedesBories ARCHITECTURE
( 0490720348adult/child6/4 9amsunset)Youllspotbeehiveshapedbories(stonehuts)whilebuzzingaroundProvence1610have beencountedtodate.AttheVillagedesBories,4kmsouthwestofGordes,exploreawholevillageofthem.Constructedofsliveredlimestone, borieswerebuiltduringtheBronzeAge,inhabitedbyshepherdsuntil1839,thenabandoneduntiltheirrestorationintheearly1970s. Visitearlymorningsorbeforesunsetforinterplayoflightandshadow.Tip:thelowerparkinglotisforbusescontinuetothehilltoplot,lestyou havetohikeuphillintheblazingheat.
MusedelaLavande LAVENDERMUSEUM
( 0490769123www.museedelalavande.comrouteD2,Coustelletadult/child6/free 9am7pmMaySep,9amnoon&26pmOct Apr)MusedelaLavande7kmsouthofGordes,inCoustelletshowcasestopendfinelavender.Anaudioguideandshortvideo(inEnglish) explainthelavenderharvest,andgiantcopperstillsrevealextractionmethods.Theonsiteboutiqueisanexcellent(ifpricey)onestopshopfor qualityfinelavenderproducts,andaneasyalternativetodrivingtodistantfarms.
Sleeping&Eating LeMasdelaBeaume B&B

( 0490720296www.labeaume.comd125180 )Inavisuallystunninghilltoplocaleatthevillagesedge,thisimpeccablefiveroom maisondhteislikeaProvenalpostcardcometolife,withyellowwashedstonewallroomsdecoratedwithbunchesoflavenderhangingfrom woodbeamedceilings.Bedsaredressedinhighthreadcountlinens,andbreakfastisdeliveredtoyourroom.
LeMasRegalade B&B
( 0490769079www.masregaladeluberon.comD2,QuartierdelaSnancoled120150 )Astonefarmhouseonagrassyplain surroundedbyoakwoodlands,LeMasRegaladessexyroomsartfullyblendmodconswithplayfulantiques.Outside,avintageCitronpeeks fromhedgerowsoflavenderandrosemary,beyondthebigpool.Itsoutinthecountryside,3.5kmsouthofGordes.
LeMasTourteron GASTRONOMIC
( 0490720016www.mastourteron.comchemindeStBlaisemenusfrom49 lunch&dinnerWedSat,lunchSun,closedNovMar) Thewelcomeiswarmatthiscountrysideauberge,surroundedbyflourishinggardensanidealdestinationforalazylunch.Thestonewalled diningroomhasavaguelybohochicfeeling,befittingchefElisabethBourgeoisBaiquesstylisedcooking.HusbandPhillipeselectsfromover200 winestopairwithherseasonallychanging,inventivemenus.Dessertsarelegendary.Bookthegardeninniceweather. Its3.5kmsouthofGordes,signpostedofftheD2.Reservationsessential. Information TouristOffice(
0490720275www.gordesvillage.complaceduChteau
9amnoon&26pm)
ROUSSILLON&AROUND
POP1328
Sometwomillenniaago,theRomansusedtheochreouseartharoundthespectacularvillageofRoussillon,setinthevalleybetweenthePlateau deVaucluseandtheLuberonrange,forproducingpotteryglazes.Thesedaysthewholevillage,evengravestonesinthecemetery,isbuiltofthe reddishstone.
Sights&Activities
Attractionsfocusonlearningmoreabouttheregionssignatureochreousearth.Roussillonsvisualcharmsarenosecret,soarriveearlyorlatein theday.
PARCNATURELRGIONALDULUBERON
Egyptianvultures,eagleowls,wildboars,BonelliseaglesandEtruscanhoneysuckleareamongthespeciesthatcallthe1650sqkmParcNaturel RgionalduLuberon(www.parcduluberon.fr)home.Createdin1977andrecognisedasaBiosphereReservebyUnescoin1997,theparkencompasses denseforests,plunginggorgesand67villageswithacombinedpopulationof155,000.TheGR6,GR9,GR92andGR97walkingtrailsallcrossit,asdoesa 236kmlongcyclingroute. Information,maps,workshopsandguidesareavailableinAptattheMaisonduParc.
ConservatoiredesOcres etdelaCouleur OCHREMUSEUM

(Ochre&ColourConservatory 0490056669www.okhra.comrtedAptguidedtoursadult/student6/4.50,combinedticketwithSentier desOcres7 9am7pmJul&Aug,9am6pmSepJun,closedMon&TueJan&Feb )Thisartscentreandhistoricsiteexaminesall thingspigment.Occupyingadisusedochrefactory(ontheD104eastofRoussillon),itexploresthepropertiesofochrethroughindooroutdoor displaysandartwork,funforkidstorunaround.Theresanexcellentartandhomedecorboutique,stockingextensiverangesofpowdered pigment.Workshops(someinEnglish)teachcolour.Tourshappenyearroundat2.30pmand3.30pm,plus11amand4.30pminsummer.
LesMinesdOcredeBruoux HISTORICSITE
( 0490062259www.minesdebruoux.fradmission7.50 10am7pmJul&Aug,to6pmAprJun,Sep&Oct)InGargas,7kmeastof Roussillon,thisformerochreminehasspectacularspirefilledcaves,likeaserenemineralchurch.Visitsareonlybyguidedtour,socheckthe scheduleonthewebsitereservationsrequired(bookonlineorbyphone).
SentierdesOcres WALKING
(OchreTrailadult/child2.50/free 9am6.30pmMaySep,lowseasonclosesearlier,closedJanmidFeb)AttheedgeofRoussillonvillage, grovesofchestnutandpinesurroundsunsetcolouredochreformations,risingonaclifftop.A30to60minutewalktwistsitswaythroughstunning minidesertlandscapesitslikesteppingintoaGeorgiaOKeeffepainting.Avoidwearingwhite!
Sleeping&Eating LesPassiflores B&B

( 0490714308www.passiflores.frLesHuguetsd/qinclbreakfast73/120 )Quietandfriendly,thiscommeilfautchambredhteis hiddeninthetinyhamletLesHuguets,4kmsouthofRoussillon.SpotlessroomsaredecoratedwithprettyflourishesofcountryProvenalprints,not overdone.Thefourpersonsuiteisexcellentvalue.Outside,thepoolisasmallfilteredpond.Thetabledhte(28byreservation)includeswine andcoffee.
LesGrandsCamps TRADITIONALFRENCH
( 0490746733LeChnemenuinclwine&coffee28,childrensmenu14 lunchSun )Thisunpretentiousworkingfarmserves SundaylunchfourcoursefeastsoffarmfreshgameandcharcuterienearGargasochrequarry.Makereservations.Takethesignposteddirt roadnorthfromthehamletofLeChne. Information TouristOffice( 0490056025www.roussillonprovence.complacedelaPoste helpwithtoursandaccommodationbookings.
10amnoon&1.305pmMonSat)Thetouristofficecan
STSATURNINLSAPT&AROUND
POP2479
StSaturninlsAptisrefreshinglyungentrifiedandjustbeyondthetouristradar.Shops(notboutiques),cafesandbakerieslineitscobbledstreets. ThevillagehasmarvellousviewsofthesurroundingVaucluseplateauclimbtotheruinsatopthevillageforknockoutviews.Orfindthe photogenic17thcenturywindmill,LeChteaulesMoulins,1kmnorthoftownofftheD943towardSault.
Sleeping&Eating
TherearesomefineestablishmentsfordecadentcountrydiningaroundStSaturnin,somakesureyoufactorinplentyoftimeforalonglunch.
LeMasPerral B&B
( 0490754631www.masperreal.comQuartierlaFortunes/d/trinclbreakfast125/135/175 )Surroundedbyvineyards,lavender fieldsandcherryorchards,onavast17acrepropertyoutsideStSaturninlsApt,thisfarmhouseB&Bhasfivecharminglysimplerooms,styled withcountryantiquesandProvenalfabrics.Outsidetheresaheavenlypoolandbiggardenwithmountainviews.Elisabeth,alongtimeFrench teacher,offerscookingandFrenchlessons(30perhour).
PROVENCESCOLORADO
LuberonsbiggestochresiteisjustoutsidethetinyvillageofRustrel(10kmnortheastofApt),gatewaytotheotherworldlyformationsoftheColorado Provenal( 0432520975www.coloradoprovencal.com 9amdusk).Remnantsofaquarrywhereochrewasminedfromthe1880suntil1956,the savagelandscapehasextraordinaryrockformations,notablythefieryuprightCheminedeFe(FairyChimney).ItlookslikeasliceofsouthwesternUS plunkeddowninFrance. Colourcodedtrailsleadfromthecarpark,signpostedsouthofRustrelvillageofftheD22toBanon.Parkingcosts4(freeNovembertoMarch).Acafe serveslunchinhighseason.Theredearthgetsblazinglyhotinsummer:comeearly,carrywater,andwearhikingbootsandahat.
LaTabledePablo MODERNFRENCH
( 0490754518www.latabledepablo.comLesPetitsClments,Villarsweekdaylunchmenus1722,dinner&Sunlunchmenus2955 lunchSunTue,Thu&Fri,dinnernightly)GainingtheattentionofMichelin,youngchefThomasGallardowowsdinerswithinventive gastronomiccreationsathistiny,lowkey,middleofnowhererestaurant.Thecleanlinedcontemporarystylediningroomiscomfyenoughits thefoodthatsexceptional.Alsoofferscookingcourses.
LeRestaurantLEstrade BISTRO
( 04907115756avVictorHugomenusfrom15)Wordofmouthkeepsthisvillagerestaurantbuzzing.Theearthymenushowcasesthe seasonsfreshestingredients.ItsagreatdestinationwhentakingaroadtriparoundtheLuberon.Callahead.
SouthofApt
SouthoftheN100,thedeepCombedeLourmarincarvesanorthsouthdividethroughtheLuberonmassif.LePetitLuberon(LittleLuberon)sits onthewesternsideanditsrockylandscapeissprinkledwithcakedecorationlikevillagesperchs(perchedvillages)overlookingthickcedar forestsandCtesduLuberonvineyards.Toitseast,LeGrandLuberontakesindramaticgorges,grandfortressesandlavenderfields.
PETITLUBERON
ThePetitLuberonisfamedforitscompacthilltopvillagesoverlookingforests,valleysandvineyards.
Sights&Activities
OneofthehighlightsoftheareaarethevillagesBonnieux,Lacoste,MnerbesandOppdeleVieux. Bonnieux(population1464)burstontocinemascreensinAGoodYear(2006)asthevillagewhereRussellCrowescharacterMaxSkinner,a Britishfinancier,findsjoiedevivreinthevineyardsofProvence. Lacoste(population436)harboursthe9thcenturyChteaudeLacoste,wherethenotoriousMarquisdeSade(17401814)retreatedwhen hiswritingsbecametooscandalousforParis.Theeroticnovelspennedbythemarquis(whogaverisetothetermsadism)wereonlyfreely publishedafterWWII.The45roompalaceremainedaneerieruinuntiltransformedbycouturierPierreCardinintoa1000seattheatreandopera stagehostingJulysmonthlongFestivaldeLacoste(www.festivaldelacoste.com). ScalingthesteepstreetstoMnerbes(population1159),mooredonahilltop,rewardsyouwithuninterruptedviews.Themazeofstreets concealsa12thcenturyvillagechurchandthefabulousMaisondelaTruffeetduVin(HouseofTruffle&Wine 0490723837www.vin truffeluberon.complacedelHorloge 10am12.30pm&2.306pmdailyAprOct,ThuSatNovMar),wheretheBrotherhoodofTrufflesand WineofLuberonrepresents60domainesandsellstheirwinesatrockbottomprices.ApriltoOctobertheresfreedailywinetastingwinter bringstruffleworkshops. MnerbescapturedtheattentionofmillionswhenitwasmemorablyrenderedbyBritishauthorPeterMayle.ThelavishlydetailedbooksAYear inProvenceandToujoursProvencerecountrenovatingamasjustoutsidethevillageinthelate1980s.MonsieurMaylenowlivesinthenearby villageofLourmarin. OppdeleVieux(population20),amedievalhilltopvillage6kmwestofMnerbes,wasabandonedin1910byvillagerswhomoveddownthe valleytothecultivatedplainstoearntheirliving.Today,ahandfulofartistsliveshereamongthecoolruins.TheSentierVignerondOppde,a 1hourwinegrowerstrail,windsthrougholivegroves,cherryorchardsandvineyards.
LAGARDEDAPT
InLagardedApt(population37),20kmnortheastofApt,beneathsomeofEuropesdarkestnightskies,ObservatoireSirene( 0490750417 www.obssirene.comadultday/night10/15.50,childrenfree )showsyouthestarsandrevealsastronomicalwondersusinghighpoweredtelescopes. Reservationsareessentialforstargazingsessions. Theareasotherhighlightisthe80hectarelavenderfarm,ChteauduBois( 0490769123www.lechateaudubois.com),wherea2kmlong lavendertrailblazesfromlateJuneuntilmidJuly,whenthesweetsmellingflowerisharvested.
Sleeping&Eating LaBouquire B&B

( 0490758717www.labouquiere.comchemindesGardiolesd90120)Surroundedbyorchardsandvineyards,withnaryavisible neighbour,thisruralhideaway2.5kmfromBonnieuxhasfourcountrycharmingroomsdressedwithamishmashofantiquesandMoroccankilims. Allopenontoflowerfilledgardensandshareakitchen,whichwillsaveyoulengthyrestauranttripsatnight.
HtelLaBastideduBoisBrant HOTEL
( 0490058678www.hotelbastideboisbreant.com501cheminduPuitsdeGrandaou,Maubecrinclbreakfast137218 ) Shadedby200yearoldoaks,this2hectareformertruffleplantationsprawlsbehindanirongate.The1825mansionhouses12romanticrooms, doneinupmarketcountryProvenalstyle.Outsidearetwocosycabanesperchesbonafidetreehouses(noelectricity,butshowerandtoilet). TheexpansivegroundshavethatrarestoftreatsinProvence:aheatedpool.Tabledhte(setmenu)costs28.
LeClosduBuis HOTEL
( 0490758848www.leclosdubuis.frrueVictorHugo,Bonnieuxd120138 closedmidNovmidFeb )Smackdabin Bonnieuxvillage,thisstonetownhousespillsontobigterracedgardens,lovelyforwhilingawaytheafternoon.Thediningroomhaspanoramic views,andtheresaselfcateringkitchen.Oneroomiswheelchairaccessible.
CafVranda MODERNFRENCH
( 0490723333www.cafeveranda.com104avMarcellinPoncet,Mnerbeslunchmains1013,dinnermenus38 lunchTueSun, dinnerTueSat)Highinthevillage,Vrandafeelseffortlesslycasual,itscandystripedtableclothsacheerfulcomplementtothesweepingvalley views.Thekitchenekessubtleflavoursfromseasonalandregionalproduce,likeanelegantlysimpletruffleomelettesuperb.Reservations essential.
LeFournil MODERNFRENCH
( 0490758362www.lefournilbonnieux.com5placeCarnot,Bonnieuxlunchmenus2328,dinnermenus4549 closedMon&Sat lunch&NovMar)CasualchicLeFournils,setonaquiet,sunspeckledsquare,sportsacontemporaryglassandsteeldecoroverlookinga carvedrockinterioramoodybackdropforconsistentlyfirstrate,inventivecookingthatvariesseasonally.Itspricey,butisamongBonnieuxtop tablesandyouwontsoonforgetwhatyouate.
CafduProgrs CAFE
( 0490722209placeAlbertRoure,Mnerbesmenus1316 lunch,bar6ammidnight)Mnerbestobacconistnewsagentbar,Caf duProgrs,runbygoodhumouredPatrick,hasntchangedmuchsinceitopenedacenturyago.Greatforalunchtimeplatdujour,butarriveearly. Information BonnieuxIntercommunalTouristOffice( 0490759190www.tourismeenluberon.com7placeCarnot,Bonnieux &26.30pmMonFri,26.30pmSat)Hasinformationabouttheentirearea. GettingThere&Away TheAptCavaillonbusservicestopsinallfourvillagesthreetimesaday.Thebestoptionbyfaristohaveyourowntransport.
9.30am12.30pm
GRANDLUBERON
PurplelavendercarpetsthePlateaudeClapardesareabetweenBuoux(west),Sivergues(south),Auribeau(east)andpicturepostcardSaignon (north).Cycle,walkormotorthroughthelavenderfieldsandalongthenorthernslopesofMourreNgre(1125m)theLuberonshighestpoint. StopforviewsofgorgeousSaignon(population1005)beforeyouwanderitsstreets. AtthebaseoftheCombedeLourmarinand,unlikemanyoftheLuberonsprecarioushilltoptownships,easilyaccessed,thealluringvillageof Lourmarinmakesforalovelystrollwithitscharmingstreets,cafesandalivelyFridaymorningmarket.
Sleeping&Eating AubergeduPresbytre HISTORICHOTEL

( 0970446456www.aubergepresbytere.complacedelaFontaine,Saignond65155menus2838 restaurantclosedTue )Datingtothe12thcentury,thisformerpresbyteryisnowaromantic16roomvillageinn,withhiggledypiggledystaircases,lowwoodbeamed ceilings,andeachroom(somewithaircon)adifferentstyleandshapebookwellaheadforthetopfloorblueroom(130),withitsincredible panoramicterrace.Theonsiterestaurant,overlookingthemosscoveredvillagefountain,servesclassicFrenchfare.
LaCordire B&B
( 0490680332www.cordiere.comrueAlbertCamusr5065,studioperweek395450 )AtLourmarinsvillagecentre,thischaracter richhouse,built1582,surroundsatinyflowerfilledcourtyard,withadjoiningsummerkitchenforguests.Roomsareample,withspacious bathrooms,andarefilledwithatmosphericProvenalantiques.Alsorentsthreegreatvaluestudioswithkitchensonehasaircon.
SanglierParesseux MODERNFRENCH
( 0490751770www.sanglierparesseux.comCaseneuvelunch/dinnermenus23/29 lunch&dinnerMon,Tue&ThuSat,lunchSun midJanmidDec)HighinthehillsaboveApt,withjawdroppingvistas,SanglierParesseuxtopsourlistofLuberonfavourites.Itseasystyleis invitinglycasual,andtheresnobettersunsetviewthanfromitswestfacingterrace(comeforlunchorarrivebeforedark).Thechefsdisciplined techniqueandeasypersonalcharmshinethroughinrefined,unfussycreations,whichplayofftheseasonsandshowcaseregionalingredients. Thedriveiswindy10minutesfromApt,15fromSaignon.
AubergeLaFenire GASTRONOMIC
( 0490681179www.reinesammut.comrtedeLourmarin,Cadenetrestaurantlunch/dinnermenusfrom50/90 )Theexquisitedomain ofMichelinstarredReineSammut,whogrowsakitchengardenforheroutstandingsixandninecourseformalrestaurantmenusandmorecasual bistromenus(35).Classes(75to145)demonstratehowtomakeperfectpuffpastryorsucculentandouillette(porksausage).Foran indulgentsplurge,considerbookingdinnerandanovernightstay(roomsfrom190). Information LourmarinTouristOffice( 0490681077www.lourmarin.comavPhilippedeGirard 1.30pm&36pmFri)Organisesguidedwalksinandaroundthevillage. GettingThere&Away ThereareacoupleofbusesadaytoApt,BonnieuxandAixenProvence.
10am12.30pm&36pmMonThu&Sat,10am
NORTHEASTERNPROVENCE
HauteProvencesheadymountainrangesarcacrossthetopoftheCtedAzurtotheItalianborder,creatingafarflungcrownofsnowypeaksand precipitousvalleys.Tothewest,astringofsweet,untouristyhilltopvillagesandlavenderfieldsdrapetheValledelaDurance.MagicalMoustiers SteMarieisagatewaytotheplungingwhitewatersofEuropeslargestcanyon,theGorgesduVerdon.Intheeast,theValledesMerveilles wowswith36,000BronzeAgerockcarvings.InthefarnortharethewinterskislopesandsummermountainretreatsoftheUbayeandBlanche Valleys.Outsideofskiareas,manyestablishmentscloseinwinter.
PaysdeForcalquier
Beyondmasstourismsradar,PaysdeForcalquiersexpansivelandscapescomprisewildflowertingedcountrysideandisolatedhilltopvillages. Atitsheartliesitsnamesake,Forcalquier.
Sights&Activities
ForcalquiersitsatoparockyperchanditsfantasticMondaymarketdrawslocalsfromthroughouttheregion:thisiswheretostockupon lavender,mountainhoneyanddecadentcuredmeatsandcheesesforpicnics.Steepstepsleadtoitsgoldtoppedcitadelandoctagonalchapel, wherecarillonconcertsareheldmostSundaysfrom11.30amto12.30pm.Onthewayup,perusethelocalartistsworkshopspackedwithpottery andfurniture.
PEDALPOWER
JauntybluesignsmarkthewayfortheAutourduLuberon,a236kmcyclingitinerarythroughtheregionthatleadsfromonepicturesquevillagetothe next.Touristofficeshavemapsforthis,aswellasLesOcresenVlo,anotherroutethroughochrecountry.DecommissionedrailwaylinesnearAptare beingredevelopedintocyclingpathstodate28kmofpathsarefinished.Staytuned.BicycleclubVloLoisirenLuberon( 0492790582 www.veloloisirluberon.com)hasextensiveinfooneverythingfromwheretorentbikesandhowtoarrangetransportofluggage,tothelocationofbathrooms enroute. Ifyoucantbearpedallingupallthosehills,SunEBikes( 0490740996www.locationveloprovence.com1avClovisHugues,Bonnieuxelectric bikeperday35),inBonnieuxandGordes,rentselectricbicyclestheyrenotscootersyouhavetopedalbutthemotorhelpssignificantlywiththe ascents.
InthevillageofStMichellObservatoire,astrolluptothehilltopoverlookpassesalongwindingwalkwaysandtinyateliers.Pastthe12th centurygliseHaute,thereare360degreeviewsfromtheLuberontotheAlps.
PrieurdeSalagon HISTORICSITE
( 0492757050www.museedesalagon.comadult/child7/5 10am7pmdailyJunAug,10am6pmWedMonSeptMay,closedJan )TherearefewmorepeacefulplacesinProvencethanthe13thcenturyPrieurdeSalagon,4kmsouthofForcalquieroutsidethewalledcityof Mane.Tourexcellentgardensorseeconcertsandexhibitionsintherestoredpriory.
ObservatoiredeHauteProvence OBSERVATORY
( 0492706400www.obshp.fradult/child4.50/2.50 guidedvisits25pmTueThuJul&Aug,2:154pmWedSepJun)Visitthis nationalresearchcentre,nearthegliseHauteinStMichellObservatoire.Buyticketsforthe30minuteguidedtourfromtheticketofficeinSt Michelsvillagesquare.
Sleeping&Eating
RelaisdElle B&B
( 0492750687,mobile0675423372http://relaisdelle.comrtedelaBrillane,Niozelless/d/tr/qfrom55/62/83/104 )Thisstately vintage1802,ivycoveredstonefarmhouse,10minuteseastofForcalquier,crownsaridgeinbigviewcountryside.Fiverooms(andonestudio), eachwithprivateentrance,somewithbeamedceilings,aredecoratedinsmartcountryhousestyle.Reserveaheadforthedlicieuxallinclusive tabledhte(28).Hugepool.Limitedwifi.
RestaurantLe9 PROVENAL
( 0492750329www.le9forcalquier.fravJeanGionolunchmenus1318,dinnermenus2026 dailyJul&Aug,ThuMonSeptJun) HighinForcalquierbehindthecitadel,withpanoramicterrace,Le9istownsmostreliableaddressforearthy,marketdrivencooking, incorporatingfreshfromthefarmingredientsinsimple,brightlytonedbistrofare,likehoneybraisedrabbitorgrilledlambwithtomatoandbasil. Fridaystheresagrandaoli(boiledvegetablesandfishservedwithagarlicmayonnaise).Makereservations.
Information
ForcalquierTouristOffice( 0492751002www.forcalquier.com13placeduBourguet 9amnoon&26pmMonSat)Thetouristoffice inForcalquieristhemaininformationpointfortheareaandhasextensiveinformationonwalkingandcycling.Smartphoneusersmaywantto downloadtheappVisit04.
GettingThere&Away
TherearethreedailybusesbetweenForcalquierandAvignon(18.40,2hrs).
ValledelaDurance
AtthewesternedgeofHauteProvence,thewindingwatersofthe324kmlongRiverDurance,atributaryoftheRhne,followtheViaDomitia, theroadfromItalythatallowedtheRomanstoinfiltratethewholeofFrance.Nowitstheautoroutespath,afastconnectorbetweentheAlpsand thecoast. Comesummer,theareashighlightisthePlateaudeValensole,Franceslavendercapital.CruisetheplateaualongtheD6orD8forarresting viewsofunfoldingpurpleripples. Ontheothersideoftheriver,PrieurdeGanagobie( 0492680004Ganagobie 35pmTueSun),a10thcenturyBenedictine monastery,iswonderfulforastrollamongstquiethilltopwoods.Thechapelisthemonasterysonlyenclosedsectionopentovisitors.Its12th centuryfloormosaic(depictingdragons)isthelargestofitskindinFrance.Theshopstocksmonkmadesoaps,honeyandmusic,andhouses artefactsfoundonsite.ThemonasteryissignpostedofftheN96betweenLursandPeyruis. LaMagnanerie( 0492626011www.lamagnanerie.netN85,Aubignosclunchmenus19,dinnermenus2329,r6791 lunch TueSun,dinnerWedSat )isaconvenientroadhouserestauranthotel,10kmsouthofSisteron.Itsagoodstopoverforproperwhite tableclothdinnerandanovernightincontemporaryrooms.
GorgesduVerdon
UndertheprotectionoftheParcNaturelRgionalduVerdonsince1997,Europeslargestcanyon,theplungingGorgesduVerdon,slicesa 25kmswathethroughProvenceslimestoneplateau. ThemaingorgebeginsatRougonneartheconfluenceoftheVerdonandtheJabronRivers,andthenwindswestwardsuntiltheVerdonsgreen watersflowintoLacdeSteCroix.Atadizzying250mto700mdeep,thegorgesfloorsarejust8mto90mwide,anditsoverhangingrimsarefrom 200mto1500mapart. ThetwomainjumpingoffpointsforexploringthegorgesarethevillagesofMoustiersSteMarieinthewestandCastellaneintheeast.The deepfloorsareonlyaccessiblebyfootorraft.Motorists,horseridersandcyclistscantakeinstaggeringpanoramasfromtwovertigoinducing cliffsideroads.
Activities
Cycling&Driving
TheRoutedesCrtes(D952&D23 closed15Nov15Mar)corkscrewsalongthenorthernrim,pastPointSublime,whichoffersafisheye lensviewofserratedrockformationsfallingawaytotheriverbelow.ThebestviewfromthenorthernsideisfromBelvdredelEscals. Alsoheartpalpitating,LaCornicheSublime(theD955totheD71,andthenontotheD19)twistsalongthesouthernrim,takinginlandmarks suchastheBalconsdelaMescla(MesclaTerraces)andPontdelArtuby(ArtubyBridge),thehighestbridgeinEurope. AcompletecircuitoftheGorgesduVerdonviaMoustiersSteMarieinvolvesabout140kmofrelentlesshairpinturndriving.Touristofficeshave drivingitineraries.TheonlyvillageenrouteisLaPaludsurVerdon(930m).Inwinter,roadsgeticyorsnowywatchforfallingrocksyearround andheavenforbidthatyougetstuckbehindacaravaninsummeropportunitiestopassarerare.
Walking
DozensofblazedtrailstraverseuntamedcountrysidearoundCastellaneandMoustiers.Touristofficescarrytheexcellent,Englishlanguage CanyonduVerdon(4.70),detailing28walks,plusamapoffiveprincipalwalks(2.40). YoucanhikemostofthecanyonalongtheoftendifficultGR4,definitivelycoveredbytwoIGNmaps:3442(MoustierstoRougon)and3542OT (RougontoCastellane)each10.50.Thefullroutetakestwodays,butshortercanyondescentsarepossible.Bringatorch(flashlight)and drinkingwater. Campingongravelbeachesisillegal.Dontcrosstheriver,exceptatbridges,andstayonmarkedtrails,lestyougettrappedwhentheupstream damopens,whichhappenstwiceweekly.Checkwithtouristofficesbeforeembarking.
OutdoorSports
Castellaneisthemainwatersportsbase(whitewateractivitiesgenerallyrunApriltoSeptember,andmustbebooked)itstouristofficehas detailedlistsofoperators.
DesGuidespourlAventure OUTDOORACTIVITIES
( 0685944661www.guidesaventure.comMoustiersSteMarie yearround)Guidesexcellentcanyoning(45/70perhalfday/day),rock climbingandrafting(55/75),andfloating(45/90)riverrunningwithonlyabuoyancybagstrappedtoyourback.
AboardRafting WATERSPORTS
( 0492837611www.raftingverdon.com)Whitewaterraftingandcanyoningtrips.
LatitudeChallenge BUNGEEJUMPING
( 0491090410www.latitudechallenge.frjumps105)BungeejumpsfromEuropeshighestbungeesite,182mPontdelArtuby.Alsooffers skydiving.
Information
MoustiersSteMarieTouristOffice( 0492746784www.moustiers.fr 10am12.30pm&26pmdaily )Freewifi.Withexcellent service,itsthebestoverallinformationsource.Openinghoursvarybyhalfanhourorsodependingontheseason. CastellaneTouristOffice( 0492836114www.castellane.org 9am12.30pm&26.45pmMonSatMarOct,plus10am12.30pmSun
Jul&Aug,9amnoon&25pmMonFriNovFeb)BestinfosourceforrivertripsandeasternsideofGorgesduVerdon.
GettingThere&Around
Publictransportislimited.TheresaoncedailyLERbus(LignesExpressRgionales 0821202203www.infoler.fr)servicebetween Moustiers,CastellaneandMarseille.DailyJulyandAugustandweekendsApriltoSeptember,NavettesdesGorgesshuttlebuses(7 www.lapaludsurverdon.com)linkCastellanewithPointSublime,LaPaludandLaMaline(butnotMoustiers),returninghikerstotheirvehicles. Touristofficeshaveschedulesanddetailedinformation.
CASTELLANE&AROUND
POP1539
Castellaneistheareasmainbaseforwatersportcompanies.Itsdeadinwinterbutteeminginsummer.ChapelleNotreDameduRocis spectacularlyperchedabovetownonaneedlelikerock.
Sleeping&Eating
Thenearbyriverislinedwithseasonalcampingareas.Hotelsandrestaurantsclusteraroundthecentralsquares.
GtedeChasteuil B&B
( 0492837245www.gitedechasteuil.comHameaudeChasteuilr5891 MarNov)Some12kmwestofCastellane,thisirresistible chambredhte,insideaformerschoolhousewithgorgeousmountainviews,isidealforhikersalongGR4,whichpassesoutside.Excellenttable dhte(20to24)reservationsessential.
MasduVerdon B&B
( 0492837320www.masduverdon.comQuartierdAnglesr5572,tablesdhte22 AprOct)Hidden1kmsouthoftownonthe Verdonsbanks,thisstonewalled18thcenturyfarmhousehasfiveinvitingroomsandkindlyservice.Tabledhtebyreservation,Mayto September.
AubergeduTeillon PROVENAL,GASTRONOMIC
( 0492836088www.aubergeteillon.comD4805,directionGrasse,LaGardemenus2638,d60 lunchTueSun,dinnerTueSat AprOct,closedlunchTueJul&Aug,closedNovMar)ThisroadsideaubergeservesthebestfoodthissideofMoustiers.Provenalclassics includehousemadepts,tenderroastedpigeonandunusualtartetatinaufoiegras.Reservationsareessential.Alsorentssimplerooms.Its located5kmeastofCastellane.
MOUSTIERSSTEMARIE&AROUND
POP635
DubbedthetoiledeProvence(StarofProvence),thecharminglittlevillageofMoustiersSteMariemakesafairclaimtothetitle.Tucked betweentwolimestonecliffs,itoverlooksopenfieldsandfaroffmountains.A227mlonggoldchainbearingashiningstarissuspendedoverthe town,solegendclaims,bytheKnightofBlacas,gratefultohavereturnedsafelyfromtheCrusades.Beneaththestar,clingingtoacliffledge,14th centuryChapelleNotreDamedeBeauvoirisbuiltonthesiteofanAD470temple.Moustiersisalsoknownforitsdecorativefaience (earthenwarepottery)15ateliers(workshops)displaytheirownstyles.
Sleeping&Eating LePetitSgris FARMSTAY

( 0492746883www.gitesegries.frrinclbreakfast6979 )FriendlyhostsSylvieandNolofferfivecolourful,airyroomsintheirrambling farmhousesurroundedbycountryside.Familystyletablesdhte(21withwine),whichmightincludefreshlamb,rabbitandmountainhoney,is servedatamassivechestnuttable.Alsoguidesmountainbiketours(from65).
LaFermeRose HOTEL
( 0492757575www.lafermerose.comchemindeQuinsond80150 )Thisinvitingconvertedfarmhouseisnowathreestarhotel.It containsquirkycollectiblesWurlitzerjukebox,displaycaseofcoffeegrindersbutitsdozenroomsareuncluttered,colourfulandairy.Great bathrooms.
LePetitLac CAMPGROUND
( 0492746711www.lepetitlac.comrteduLacdeSteCroixcampingper2people1523,cabinsfrom47 campingmidJunSep, cabinsAprmidOct )Activityorientedlakesidecampgroundalsocute,woodsyecocabins(twonightminimum).
LaBastidedeMoustiers GASTRONOMIC
( 0492704747www.bastidemoustiers.commenus5575,dfrom240 )ThissplurgeworthyProvenalnest,domainoflegendarychef AlainDucasse,isfamousforfinecuisinehencethehelicopterpadinthegardenandprovidesachancetodressfordinner,ararityin Provence.Roomsaresophisticatedandsmart,andbreakfastisservedonagardenviewterrace,inviewofscamperingbabydeer.
LaFermeSteCcile GASTRONOMIC
( 0492746418D952menus2838 lunchTueSat,dinnerTueSun,closedNovmidMar)Thedeliciousculinarysurprises,servedon theterraceofthisauthenticfermeauberge,mayincludethethinnestsliceofRoquefortandpearwarmedinfilopastry,orfoiegraswrappedin sweetquince.Thisisamealforconnoisseursthefussychefdemandsyoulinger.
Clrissy CRPERIE
( 0633340695,0492746267www.clerissy.frplaceduChevalierdeBlacasdishes812,d/trinclbreakfast48/58 dailyJul&Aug, ThuTueAprJun,Sep&Oct,closedNovMar)Localsgatherontheterraceforpizza,salads,crpesandpastasonhandthrownpottery.Upstairs arefoursimple,greatvaluerooms(reserveahead).Cashonly.
ParcNationalduMercantour
Deeplyisolatedandbreathtakinglybeautiful,theParcNationalduMercantour(www.mercantour.eu)isoneofthelastbastionsoftruewilderness inFrance.Theterrainismountainousbutthesunshine(inexcessof300daysayear)isdefinitelyProvenal.Theparkspreadsacrosssixvalleys (Ubaye,HautVerdon,HautVar,Tine,VsubieandRoyaBrva).
VALLEDELUBAYE
ValledelUbayeisringedbyarollercoasterofruggedmountains.Thevalleysonlytown,Barcelonnette(elevation1135m),hasafascinating Mexicanheritage,resultinginsomeveryunAlpinearchitecture.Fromthe18thcenturyuntilWWII,some5000BarcelonnettaisemigratedtoMexico toseektheirfortunesinthesilkandwoolweavingindustries,buildingmansionsthroughoutthetownupontheirreturn. Theareaisbrilliantforoutdoorsports,includingwhitewaterrafting,cycling,mountainbiking,skiingand,ofcourse,walking.ContactBureau desGuidesdelUbaye( 0686673873www.guidesmontagneubaye.comrueManuel,Barcelonnette)tofindindependentguidesfor mostsports. LeMartinet(15kmwestofBarcelonnette)isagoodbaseformountainbikingandraftingtripsconsideroutfitterRiver( 0492855399 www.river.fr).About10kmsouthofBarcelonnetteistheskiresortofPraLoup( 0492841004www.praloup.com),thesouthernAlpsbiggest andbestsnowdestination.Insummertheliftsareputtogooduseforbrilliantmountainbiking. OutdoorfanaticswillfindkindredspiritsinBabetteandFrdric,thegregariousownersofLesMans( 0492810391www.les means.comD900,MolansRevelr/aptinclbreakfastfrom65/98 ).DatingtotheMiddleAges,this15thcenturyfarmhidesatunnelwhere knightsonceescapedintothemountains.NowitsanincredibleB&Bheavenforhikerssurroundedbymountainsrising1000m,echoingthe cascadingriver.Outsidetheresawoodfiredhottub. PraLoupstouristoffice( 0492841004www.praloup.com 9amnoon&25pmMayNov,9am7pmDecApr)haslistsof accommodation.FreeshuttlesoperatebetweenBarcelonnetteandPraLoup.
VALLEDELAVSUBIE
Adeadendvalleyaccessedfromthesouth,VsubieisoftenreferredtoasNicesSwitzerlandduetoitsproximitytotheCtedAzur.InSt MartinVsubie,EscapadeBureaudesGuides( 0493033132www.guidescapade.complaceduMarch,StMartinVsubie Jul& Aug)organisesclimbs,canyoningandwalksintotheValledesMerveilles.Thetouristoffice( 0493032128www.saintmartinvesubie.fr placeFlixFaure 9am7pmdailyJunSep,9amnoon&26pmMonFriOctMay )andtheMaisonduParcNationalduMercantour (VisitorCentre 0493032315rueSerrurier,StMartinVsubie 9amnoon&26pmmidJunemidSept)haveloadsofinformation aboutexploringthesurroundingarea. Sustainedhuntingover1000yearsledtotheeventualdisappearanceofthewolf(Canislupus)fromFrancein1930.Butin1992twofunny lookingdogswerespottednearUtelle.Sincethen,wolveshavebeenmakinganaturalreturn,lopingacrosstheAlpsfromItaly.Sethighinthe mountainsofLeBoron,Alpha( 0493023369www.alphaloup.comLeBoronadult/child12/10 )allowsvisitorstofindouthowman islearningtolivewiththewolfandwatchwolvesroamwild.Visityearround,butopeninghoursvarycallaheadorvisititswebsitefordetails. MagicalmountainviewsunfoldfromthetimberterraceofsecludedLeBoron( 0493032035www.hotelboreon.comd/tr/qfrom 68/99/126,halfboardperperson64,menusfrom23 closedNovMar ),thequintessentialchalet.Cosyupinoneofitsdozenrooms andwatchthesnowflakesfalloutsidewhilediningonAlpinespecialities. Forsomethingmorestylish,headtoMoonlightChalet( 0689253674www.moonlightchalet.com8rueRumplemeyer,StMartin Vsubierinclbreakfast100130 ),ahiddenboutiquehotelontheedgeofStMartinthatusesmothernatureforinteriordesign. InnearbyLaColmiane,7kmwestofStMartinVsubie,isasmallskistationthatsalsogoodforwalking,mountainbikinginsummerandvia ferrata(amountaincourseofropebridges,laddersetc)contactColmianeSports( 0493028700www.colmianesports.com)andFerrata Sport( 0493028056)tohiremountainbikes,skigearandclimbinggear. ConseilGnraldesAlpesMaritimes(www.cg06.fr)buses(1flatfeewithinthedpartement)connectNicewithStMartinVsubie(60 minutes)andLaColmiane(75minutes).
VALLEDESMERVEILLES
TheValleyofWonderscontainsoneoftheworldsmoststupendouscollectionsofBronzeAgepetroglyphs.Theydatefrombetween1800and 1500BCandarethoughttohavebeenmadebyaLiguriancult.Effectivelyanopenairartgallery,wedgedbetweentheVsubieandRoya Valleys,itsheltersmorethan36,000rockengravingsofhumanfigures,bullsandotheranimalsspreadover30sqkmaroundMontBgo(2870m). ThemainaccessisviawestboundD91fromStDalmasdeTende,inValledelaRoya,toCastrino,wheretheresasummertimenational parkoffice( 0493048979).Alternatively,goviadeadendD171,whichleadsnorthfromRoquebillire,inValledelaVsubie.The engravingsareusuallycoveredinsnowinwinterthebesttimetoseethemisJunetoOctober.Accessismostlyrestricted:visitwithanofficial guide(inquireattheMercantourNationalParkvisitorcentreorEscapadeBureaudesGuides).

The Camargue

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The Camargue

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TheCamargue

YoucouldbeforgivenforthinkingyoureinSpainatthisremoteseasideoutpost,wherewhitewashedbuildingslinedustystreetsanddancersin brightdressesspinflamenco.DuringitsRomapilgrimages,streetcookedpansofpaellafuelchaoticcrowdsofcarnivalesqueguitarists,dancers andcowboys.

BUSAllCartreize( 0811880113www.pilote.com)servesAvignon(3.10,onehour),LesBauxdeProvence(weekendsMayto September,dailyJulyandAugust2.20,15minutes),Arles(MondaytoSaturday2.20),Cavaillon(1,30minutes).

Hoopedby4.3kmofsuperblypreservedstoneramparts,thisgracefulcityisthebelleofProvencesball.Itsturnasthepapalseatofpowerhas bestowedAvignonwithatreasuryofmagnificentartandarchitecture,nonegranderthanthemassivemedievalfortressandpapalpalace,the PalaisdesPapes.

( 049086338465rueJosephVernetadult/child6/3 10am1pm&26pmWedMon)TheelegantHteldeVilleneuveMartignan(built 174154)providesafittingbackdropforAvignonsfineartsmuseum,with16thto20thcenturyoilpaintings,prehistoricpieces,15thcentury wroughtiron,andthelandscapesofAvignonnaisartistJosephVernet.

(www.collectionlambert.com5rueVioletteadult/student/child7/5.50/2 11am9pmdailyJul&Aug,11am6pmTueSunSepJun) Openedin2000,Avignonscontemporaryartsmuseumshowcasesworksfromthe1960stopresentfromminimalistandconceptual,tovideo andphotographyinstarkcontrastwiththeclassic18thcenturymansionhousingthem.

( 0490147676www.heurope.com12placeCrillond190540 )For200years,HteldelEuropehasgreetedluminariesfrom NapolontoJaquelineKennedyOnasis.Serviceremainsexcellent,buttheglamourhasfadedroomsneedbetterlightingandfabrics.Still,itsa grandaddress,paricularlywhenyouscorediscountedrates.

( 0490823443www.hotelboquier.com6rueduPortailBoquierd5070 )Theownersinfectiousenthusiasminformsthischeerful andcolourful,smallcentralhoteltryforthemedroomsMoroccoorLavender.Excellentvalue.

( 0490164200www.hotelsocreazur.complacedelHorloger95180 )Mostroomsatthissupercentral19thcenturystonewalled hotel(withelevator)arestraightforward(comfortable,allmodcons),butfiveterraceroomshavetheedgewithknockoutviewsroom505 overlooksthePalaisdesPapes.

( 0490826234http://demargot.fr24ruedesTroisColombesrinclbreakfast110190 )Acharming,quietoldcityaddress,this 19thcenturyprivatehome,convertedintoanelegantguesthouse,hasawalledgardenandrooftopviews.Roomsarestyledliketheirnames Oriental,Royal,ArtDecoandRomantic.

( 0490810042www.autourdupetitparadis.com5rueNolAntoineBiretaptnightly105180,weekly6501050 )Livelikea localina17thcenturystonehouse,convertedintoasmallapartmenthotel.Scrupulouslymaintained,eachapartmenthasakitchenette,idealfor travellerswholikestyle,butdislikeshellingoutforrestaurants.

( 0490821730www.hotelmignon.com12rueJosephVernetrinclbreakfast6284 )Cuteandcomfy,with16colourfulrooms, thisgoodvaluehotelwithinthewalledcityistopsfornofrillsbudgeters,despitethetinybathsandsteepstairs.

( 043276351317ruedesTroisFauconsmenus2226 dinnerWedSun )TheclassicFrenchbistro,FoudeFafasstrengthliesin simplicityfreshingredients,brightflavours,andconvivialsurroundings.Expectawarmwelcome(inEnglish!)andfreshspinsonclassicdishes. Reserveahead.

( 049082459630ruedesLicesmains1112 dinnerMonSat)Tablesarecheekbyjowlatthistinybohemianrestaurantour favouriteforbudgetdiningwithnothingfancy,juststraightforwardbistrofare:stews,roastsandotherreliablygood,homestyleFrenchdishes. Cashonly.

(27placedesCorpsSaintsdishes46 11am11pmWedMon)Tartines(openfacedsandwiches),tarts,saladandsoupcomprisethe menuatthishomeycafe,withfarmtables,vintagefloorsandbigwindowsoverlookingahappeningsquare.

(www.avignonleshalles.complacePie 7am1pmTueSun)Over40foodstallsshowcaseseasonalProvenalingredients.Cooking demonstrationsareheldSaturdaysat11am.

(4ruedesEscaliersSteAnne noonmidnight)BehindPalaisdesPapes,adjoininganarthousecinemaandjazzmusiccentre,Utopiadraws smartcrowdstoitsverandalinedwithredvelvetbanquettes.Idealfordrinksandlightbitespreorposttheatre.

(AssociationpourleJazz&laMusiqueImprovise 0490860861www.jazzalajmi.com4ruedesEscaliersSteAnnetickets1015) InsideLaManutentionartscentre,AJMIshowcasesimprovisationaljazzatitsintimate2ndfloor(noelevator)blackboxtheatre.Showsare generallyheldThursdayandFridayevenings,andSundayafternoons.

( 0490828140www.operatheatredavignon.frplacedelHorloge boxoffice11am6pmTueSat)Builtin1847,Avignonsmainclassical venuepresentsoperas,plays,chambermusicandballetfromOctobertoJune.

TouristOffice( 0432743274www.avignontourisme.com)mainbranch(41coursJeanJaurs 9am6pmMonFri,9am5pmSat, 10amnoonSunNovMar,9am6pmMonSat,10am5pmSunAprOct)annex(LesHalles 10am1pmFriSun)

ThirteenthcenturyVilleneuvelsAvignongazesacrosstheRhneatAvignonlikeawistfullittlesister.Entrancedbythebiggercityscharm,most visitorsbarelyglanceatVilleneuveyetitsmonumentsrivalAvignons,withnoneofthecrowds.However,thebestoptionsforsleepingandeating areinAvignon.

Chartreusedu ValdeBndiction MONASTERY

TouristOffice(www.carpentrasventoux.com97placedu25Aot1944toursadult/child4/2.50 9.30am12.30pm&26pmMonSatyear round,plus9.30am1pmSunJul&Aug)Excellentwebsitemultilingualguidedtours.ThefreeEnglishlanguageDiscoveryCircuitbrochure detailsaberlingotthemedwalkingcircuit.

ConfiserieKerry Aptunion SWEETSFACTORY

Sights AbbayeNotreDamedeSnanque CHURCH

Sleeping&Eating LeMasdelaBeaume B&B

Sometwomillenniaago,theRomansusedtheochreouseartharoundthespectacularvillageofRoussillon,setinthevalleybetweenthePlateau deVaucluseandtheLuberonrange,forproducingpotteryglazes.Thesedaysthewholevillage,evengravestonesinthecemetery,isbuiltofthe reddishstone.

ConservatoiredesOcres etdelaCouleur OCHREMUSEUM

Sleeping&Eating LesPassiflores B&B

Sleeping&Eating LaBouquire B&B

Sleeping&Eating AubergeduPresbytre HISTORICHOTEL

Sleeping&Eating LePetitSgris FARMSTAY

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