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Daniel Start spent his childhood Wild Swimming provides all the
WILD swimming
river-swimming, dam-making and raft- New from practical information you’ll need to find
building in Herefordshire. He trained the publishers of and enjoy over 150 magical swims in
swimming
as a naturalist and, at the age of 22, some of the least discovered parts of
was taken hostage in the rainforests our stunning freshwater landscape.
of New Guinea. His first book, The Open
Cage, described his time swimming and In this great British tour you’ll be able to
trekking with riverine tribes and freedom swim with otters in Devon, go river-tubing
fighters there and won the 1997 Writer’s in Yorkshire, night-swim under the stars
Guild Award for Non-fiction. He has 150 hidden dips in the rivers, in Oxfordshire and learn how to build a
woodland sauna. In each chapter you’ll
spent the last five years documenting, lakes and waterfalls of Britain discover famous wild-swimmers of the
photographing and exploring the wilds
and wild waters, of Britain. past and read stories of heroes, lovers
and ordinary folk who have long enjoyed
On a hot summer day, what could be bathing under the willows.
Register at www.wildswimming.com
more refreshing than slipping into the cool,
to receive monthly updates on magical Ideas for waterside games and activities
clear waters of a secret lake? And what
new swimming locations across the UK will make sure everyone’s having fun,
could be more exciting than plunging into
and beyond. including younger children and families,
a hidden waterfall?
while there’s also information for those
Britain’s rivers, lakes and waterfalls are cleaner, who like a wilder experience: leave the car
Other titles from Punk Publishing:
safer and more accessible than at any time in living at home and go canoe, mountain or cycle
Cool Camping: England memory and the health benefits of a natural dip swimming! Further sections will help you
Cool Camping: Scotland are increasingly well known. To celebrate, award- identify riverside wildlife, find wild foods,
Cool Camping: Wales winning author, photographer and jungle hostage make a homemade raft and understand
Cool Camping: France Daniel Start set out to find Britain’s 150 favourite how to stay safe.
The Cool Camping Cookbook swimming holes and discovered that the art of
More info at www.coolcamping.co.uk taking a wilderness dip is far from lost. Wild Swimming combines inspirational
photos, engaging writing and practical
information to make this a truly unique
British travel guide.
Daniel Start
WWF works to promote the health and enjoyment
of Britain’s freshwaters. Find out more by visiting
www.wwf.org.uk/freshwater
New from the publishers of Daniel Start £14.95
Wild Swimming 3
Beginnings
When I was young, the rambling old house we shared with
two other families came with lakes, woods, streams and an
overgrown boat house. Situated deep in the heart of the Wye
valley, close to the Welsh border, it was here my brother and
I first learned to make dams, build rafts and explore the river.
Beginnings
When I was young, the rambling old house we shared with
two other families came with lakes, woods, streams and an
overgrown boat house. Situated deep in the heart of the Wye
valley, close to the Welsh border, it was here my brother and
I first learned to make dams, build rafts and explore the river.
Introduction
One branch of evolutionary theory, expounded by Sir Alistair Hardy
in the 1950s, suggests that being by and in water is more than just a
pleasure, it is at the core of our human condition. During the ten million
years of the Pliocene world droughts, while our species was busy
evolving into uprightness, we did not, suggests Hardy, choose the arid
deserts of Africa as our home, as mainstream evolutionists believe,
but the more tempting turquoise shallows of the nearby Indian Ocean.
There we became semi-aquatic coastal waders. Our subsequent life
on dry land is a relatively recent and bereft affair.
Could this explain some of our more peculiar habits and features?
Apart from the proboscis monkey, we are the only primate that regularly
plays in water for the sheer joy of it, and whose offspring take naturally
to water from birth. We are also alone in having subcutaneous fat, like
a whale’s blubber, for buoyancy and warmth. We are almost hairless,
like the dolphin, and what little hair remains is arranged to make us
streamlined for swimming.
Perhaps this is why Greek art and mythology abounds in stories of water
nymphs, naiads and sirens as magical, sexual, mischievous creatures,
inhabiting their wild ‘nymphaea’: natural pools, rivers and swimming
holes, so beautiful they lure unwitting mortals to their watery ends.
Introduction 9
Introduction
One branch of evolutionary theory, expounded by Sir Alistair Hardy
in the 1950s, suggests that being by and in water is more than just a
pleasure, it is at the core of our human condition. During the ten million
years of the Pliocene world droughts, while our species was busy
evolving into uprightness, we did not, suggests Hardy, choose the arid
deserts of Africa as our home, as mainstream evolutionists believe,
but the more tempting turquoise shallows of the nearby Indian Ocean.
There we became semi-aquatic coastal waders. Our subsequent life
on dry land is a relatively recent and bereft affair.
Could this explain some of our more peculiar habits and features?
Apart from the proboscis monkey, we are the only primate that regularly
plays in water for the sheer joy of it, and whose offspring take naturally
to water from birth. We are also alone in having subcutaneous fat, like
a whale’s blubber, for buoyancy and warmth. We are almost hairless,
like the dolphin, and what little hair remains is arranged to make us
streamlined for swimming.
Perhaps this is why Greek art and mythology abounds in stories of water
nymphs, naiads and sirens as magical, sexual, mischievous creatures,
inhabiting their wild ‘nymphaea’: natural pools, rivers and swimming
holes, so beautiful they lure unwitting mortals to their watery ends.
Introduction 11
As the Romantic era took hold, the water held its place in the artists’
gaze. Ruskin and others moved south to paint the river pools of
Cornwall and Devon. Meanwhile, Charles Kingsley was dreaming of
water babies on the Devon Dart and Henry Scott Tuke was opening his
floating studio in Falmouth, painting scenes of children swimming in the
river. Soon Francis Meadow Sutcliffe gained notoriety for his Water Rats
photograph of naked boys, while across the Atlantic Thomas Eakins
was creating a stir with his homoerotic painting of the Swimming Hole.
Water and nudity were pushing at the boundaries of rigid Victorian
society and creating space for new ideas, freedoms and creativity.
Pools and springs have long been revered by our Celtic and pagan
ancestors. Even the Romans built shrines to the water goddesses,
and several accompany the bathhouses along Hadrian’s Wall. Fresh
water was seen as a sort of interface with the spirit world, a place where
miracles – or curses – could manifest. ‘Mermaid Pools’ dot our Pennine
mountain tops and ancient holy wells and springs are found across the
Welsh and Cornish hills. No wonder, then, when Christianity came the
Britons were quick to embrace river baptism as a doorway to a new god.
As the Romantic era took hold, the water held its place in the artists’
gaze. Ruskin and others moved south to paint the river pools of
Cornwall and Devon. Meanwhile, Charles Kingsley was dreaming of
water babies on the Devon Dart and Henry Scott Tuke was opening his
floating studio in Falmouth, painting scenes of children swimming in the
river. Soon Francis Meadow Sutcliffe gained notoriety for his Water Rats
photograph of naked boys, while across the Atlantic Thomas Eakins
was creating a stir with his homoerotic painting of the Swimming Hole.
Water and nudity were pushing at the boundaries of rigid Victorian
society and creating space for new ideas, freedoms and creativity.
Pools and springs have long been revered by our Celtic and pagan
ancestors. Even the Romans built shrines to the water goddesses,
and several accompany the bathhouses along Hadrian’s Wall. Fresh
water was seen as a sort of interface with the spirit world, a place where
miracles – or curses – could manifest. ‘Mermaid Pools’ dot our Pennine
mountain tops and ancient holy wells and springs are found across the
Welsh and Cornish hills. No wonder, then, when Christianity came the
Britons were quick to embrace river baptism as a doorway to a new god.
Swims at a Glance
Great for Paddling Perfect Picnics
Mainly shallow and popular with families Beautiful places, not far from car parking
and with good picnic areas or grassy banks
18 Sherdon and Landacre 75 The Warren
19 Tarr Steps, Barle 97 Overbeck Br, Wastwater 7 Spitchwick Common 80 Crickhowell, Usk
32 Chilbolton Cow Common 103 Peel Island, Lake Coniston 15 Chapelton Station, Taw 82 Wolf’s Leap, Irfon
33 Houghton, Test 104 Ulpha Bridge, Duddon 24 Pamphill 83 Wash Pool, Irfon
38 Frensham Great Pond 116 Bolton Abbey 25 West Lydford 97 Overbeck Br, Wastwater
39 Tilford, River Wey 118 Stainforth Force 26 Farleigh Hungerford, Frome 104 Ulpha Bridge, Duddon
52 Stonesfield, Evenlode 143 Cambus o’ May 39 Tilford, River Wey 111 Wain Wath waterfall
68 Dovedale and Lathkill 149 Sheriff Muir Paradise Pools 44 Port Meadow 116 Bolton Abbey
48 Cheese Wharf 128 Sillmoor, Coquet
Literary Swims 49 Buscot Weir 130 Higher Glen Etive
Where famous poets, writers or artists once swam 51 Minster Lovell, Windrush 132 The Witch’s Cauldron
8 Holne Pools 72 Chatsworth, Derwent 60 Grantchester Meadows 142 Linn of Dee
15 Chapelton Station, Taw 73 Elan Wye junction pool 61 Santon, Little Ouse 147 Strathmashie
22 Badgworthy Pool 75 The Warren 62 Ulting Church, Chelmer 150 Rob Roy’s Bathtub
23 Colber Bridge 101 Rydal Bower
44 Port Meadow 103 Peel Island, Lake Coniston Leave the Car at Home
45 Clifton Hampden 121 Gormire Lake Within 20 minutes walk of a train station
60 Grantchester Meadows 148 Loch Lomond and Katrine 6 Bodmin Parkway 63 Dedham Vale
63 Dedham Vale 150 Rob Roy’s Bathtub 15 Chapelton Station, Taw 66 Hatchmere
34 Twyford, Itchen 74 Pen-doll Rocks
Skinny-dipping 36 Ensfield Bridge, Medway 86 Fairy Glen
Remote and secluded, perfect for a natural dip 41 Hampstead Ponds 89 Blue Pool, Golwern Quarry
9 Mel Tor Pools 100 Buckstones Jum 60 Grantchester Meadows 122 Thomason Foss
10 Wellsfoot Island 101 Rydal Bower
13 Shilley Pool 119 Catrigg and Malham Go Cycling
70 Mermaid’s Pool 127 Linhope Spout, Breamish On dedicated cycle trails or routes
81 Pen-y-Fan, Nant Sere 131 Lower Glen Etive 16 Great Torrington 54 Sellack Bridge
84 Llyn y Fan Fach 133 Faerie Pools, Glen Brittle 24 Pamphill 66 Hatchmere
90 Cwm Pennant 134 Faerie Pools, Bla Bheinn 28 Claverton Weir, Avon 87 Rhaeadr Mawddach
96 Llyn Du’r Arddu 138 Plodda Falls 43 Hythe End gravel pits 148 Loch Lomond and Katrine
18 Swims at a Glance Swims at a Glance 19
37 Barcombe Mills, Ouse * 63 Dedham Vale * 25 West Lydford 104 Ulpha Bridge, Duddon
44 Port Meadow 64 Outney Common * 47 Lechlade, Thames 107 Blackmoss Pot
46 Hurley Island 75 The Warren * 49 Buscot Weir 110 Kisdon Force
56 Symonds Yat * 103 Peel Island, Lake Coniston 76 Little Canyon 114 Loup Scar
57 Leintwardine, Teme 137 Loch Beinn a Mheadhoin 88 Blue Lagoon, Moel-y-Faen 118 Stainforth Force
60 Grantchester Meadows * 139 Loch Ness 99 Tongue Pot, Eskdale 127 Linhope Spout, Breamish
101 Rydal Bower 133 Faerie Pools, Glen Brittle
Pubs
A cosy pub with great food just a splash away Tubing and Water Fun
Great for playing in surf or current, or using a rubber ring
8 Holne Pools 57 Leintwardine, Teme
9 Mel Tor Pools 79 Llangynidr, Usk
19 Tarr Steps, Barle 80 Crickhowell, Usk
11 Salmon Leaps, Teign 112 Grassington Weir
21 Rockford Pools 97 Overbeck Br, Wastwater
28 Claverton Weir, Avon 113 Ghaistrill’s Strid
37 Barcombe Mills, Ouse 98 Gill Force, Eskdale
29 Figheldean, Avon 115 Appletreewick
39 Tilford, River Wey 106 Galleny Force
74 Pen-doll Rocks 131 Lower Glen Etive
44 Port Meadow 122 Thomason Foss
76 Little Canyon 149 Sheriff Muir Paradise Pools
45 Clifton Hampden 130 Higher Glen Etive
56 Symonds Yat 138 Plodda Falls
Waterfalls and Plunge Pools
Camping Magically situated under waterfalls, big and small
Fantastic river or lakeside camping. 1 St Nectan’s Kieve 118 Stainforth Force
Good for a moonlight swim perhaps? 4 Golitha Falls 119 Catrigg and Malham
21 Rockford Pools 102 Loughrigg Tarn 77 Sgwd Gwladys/ Lady Falls 120 Ingleton Waterfalls
26 Farleigh Hungerford, Frome 103 Peel Island, Lake Coniston 78 Horseshoe Falls 122 Thomason Foss
45 Clifton Hampden 106 Galleny Force 87 Rhaeadr Mawddach 127 Linhope Spout, Breamish
46 Hurley Island 110 Kisdon Force 95 Watkin’s path waterfalls 132 The Witch’s Cauldron
63 Dedham Vale 111 Wain Wath waterfall 101 Rydal Bower 133 Faerie Pools, Glen Brittle
64 Outney Common 115 Appletreewick 106 Galleny Force 135 Rha Burn and Faerie Glen
97 Overbeck Br, Wastwater 124 Low Force, Tees 110 Kisdon Force 138 Plodda Falls
98 Gill Force, Eskdale 131 Lower Glen Etive 111 Wain Wath waterfall 150 Rob Roy’s Bathtub
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popular with families !
tourist area Hillary and some of our most famous
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76–78 The Waterfalls Woods are the most Everest mountaineers and complete the
! 87 Waterfalls plunge through a valley rich
spectacular series of waterfalls in Wales, Snowdon swim tour
in Welsh gold. There are several ruined
with aqua forest lidos fit for the gods
mines and you can still find gold if you
0ENZANCE
81 A series of remote waterfalls on the side pan the pools
of the Brecon Beacons with stunning views
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Highlights "IDEFORD &OLKESTONE
-
! 4AUNTON ! 7INCHESTER !
73 The Elan Valley was home to Shelley, 82 Wolf’s Leap in the wild Cambrian 3ALISBURY
88–89 Coloured azure blue by faint
-traces
! 3OUTHAMPTON !
who loved to bathe in mountain pools Mountains was home to wolves and is of copper, these fantastic old slate quarries !
and sail toy boats down the stream now famous
! for red%XETER
kites are like Mediterranean
! lagoons "RIGHTON
$ORCHESTER
75 Hay-on-Wye, home of literary festivals 84 This high tarn is haunted by King 91–93 Tarn-swimming is the ultimate
0ORTSMOUTH
0OOLE
and second-hand bookshops, is also the Arthur’s ‘Lady of the Lake’ landscape immersion and "OURNEMOUTH
wilderness trip.
!
site of the famous riverside ‘Warren’ – a These are three of the best
7EYMOUTH )SLE OF
86 Fairy Glen is one of the most beautiful
stretch of Wye-side shingle and shallows 7HITE
4ORQUAY
gorges in the popular Betws-y-Coed 94– 96 Follow in the footsteps of Mallory,
popular with families !
tourist area Hillary and some of our most famous
0LYMOUTH
76–78 The Waterfalls Woods are the most Everest mountaineers and complete the
! 87 Waterfalls plunge through a valley rich
spectacular series of waterfalls in Wales, Snowdon swim tour
in Welsh gold. There are several ruined
with aqua forest lidos fit for the gods
mines and you can still find gold if you
0ENZANCE
81 A series of remote waterfalls on the side pan the pools
of the Brecon Beacons with stunning views
Wales 125
Upper Wye
and Elan
The Elan Valley is sometimes known as the Welsh Lake
District and was the romantic inspiration for Shelley’s
early years. It is also the Welsh Wye’s first major stop on
its journey from its source in the Cambrian Mountains
towards the literary haven of Hay-on-Wye.
The Elan stream in which Shelley used to bathe and both the
valley homes he loved so much – Cwm Elan and the manor house
Nangwyllt – were also drowned by a series of Victorian reservoirs
in the late nineteenth century. These impressive dams and vast
lakes were created to supply water to Birmingham at the height
of its population growth. While swimming is not officially allowed
74 Pen-doll Rocks, River Wye, Builth Wells
Wales 125
Upper Wye
and Elan
The Elan Valley is sometimes known as the Welsh Lake
District and was the romantic inspiration for Shelley’s
early years. It is also the Welsh Wye’s first major stop on
its journey from its source in the Cambrian Mountains
towards the literary haven of Hay-on-Wye.
The Elan stream in which Shelley used to bathe and both the
valley homes he loved so much – Cwm Elan and the manor house
Nangwyllt – were also drowned by a series of Victorian reservoirs
in the late nineteenth century. These impressive dams and vast
lakes were created to supply water to Birmingham at the height
of its population growth. While swimming is not officially allowed
74 Pen-doll Rocks, River Wye, Builth Wells
126 Wales
The Wye continues south from the Elan junction, often shallow but
sometimes pooling where it meets rocky seams. Pen-doll Rocks
75 at Builth Wells is a particularly impressive series of pools and rapids.
Wildlife along this stretch includes ravens, red kite, buzzards, herons,
kingfishers, peregrines and otters.
75
As it reaches the north escarpment of the Brecon Beacons the
Upper Wye and Elan
Wye is forced to turn abruptly north-east and arrives in the charming,
bookshop-filled town of Hay-on-Wye, a place that loves to swim. 73 Elan Wye junction pool 74 Pen-doll Rocks 75 The Warren
The Warren, a twenty-minute walk upstream from the town centre, Town: Rhayader Town: Builth Wells Town: Hay-on-Wye
Grid ref: SN 967656 Grid ref: SO 032521 Grid ref: SO 222426
73 is the place to paddle, skim stones or watch hapless canoeists Postcode: LD1 6NS (1.5km N) Postcode: LD2 3RD (100 S) Postcode: HR3 5YH
negotiate the rapids from the long pebble beach. Further upstream Water quality: A Water quality: A Water quality: A
Depth/size: swim, dive, paddle Depth/size: paddle, swim, current Depth/size: paddle, swim
the river is deeper and a longer swim is possible. During the Hay
Walking: 1 min, easy Walking: 2 mins, difficult Walking: 10 mins, moderate
Festival you’ll find it packed with people from all over the world, Train: Llandrindod Wells, 10km Train: Builth Road, 1km Train: Hereford, 20km
propped up on one elbow reading with their picnics and Pimms. Extras: Elan reservoirs Extras: Royal Welsh Show Ground Extras: Bookshops of Hay-on-Wye
i A wide deep junction of the Elan and i An exciting stretch of the Wye i A popular stretch of commoner’s
These grassy banks had been used to catch rabbits since medieval the Wye. Deepish section to jump into narrowing through rocky cliffs. meadow by the side of the Wye. White
from bank. Shallower paddles upstream. Downstream are safe white sandy bays. shingle beach and shallows below the
times but in the 1970s a scheme was proposed to convert the Open and grassy. Elan is on reservoir Upstream the water deepens through rapids / bend, and deeper section above.
Warren into a caravan park. Local businesses and residents were release and can be very cold. a small gorge with rock formations. Tree shade. Good for paddlers. Beautiful
Dangerous in high water. setting. Rough track with parking.
‘Rocks piled on each other so horrified they decided to club together to purchase the field. 18km N of Builth Wells on A470
(or 5km S of Rhayader) turn L (R) over From central Builth Wells follow Approaching Hay-on-Wye from the
to tremendous heights, rivers A ‘20 Club’, set up to find twenty supporters, quickly mushroomed bridge and into Llanwrthwl. Go through A470 N (dir Rhayader) over bridge to west on B4530 turn L just after 30mph
formed into cataracts by into the ‘300 Club’ that continues to run to this day. The outpouring village and up hill (600m), then turn R at the roundabout in front of Royal Show speed sign, into business park. Continue
T-junction. Follow narrow lane 1.8km to Ground (junction A483 / A470). Follow 200m through residential housing and,
their projections, and valleys of community spirit that was catalysed by this swimming hole led to find bridleway on R, signed ‘Wye Valley A470 exactly 1km, past garage and large after road bends to R with speed bump,
clothed with woods, present an other community initiatives and restoration projects. Anyone can join Walk’, which leads to junction pool (50m) lay-by to park in small second lay-by on L, look for narrow rough track on L. Follow
by bench and near footbridge. Follow lane opposite wide entrance to ‘Penmaenau’. down for 400m to find parking. River is
appearance of enchantment…’ the Warren Club and membership is still £13, as it has been since on to reach Elan village and beginning Find informal path L, over crash barrier below, to L. From town follow the river
Percy Shelley, on his walk 1973, though non members are free to use the area of spectacular drive around famous and down steep wooded bank to river upstream for 500m.
flooded valleys. and Pen-doll Rocks.
to Rhayader, 1811 (www.wayonhigh.org.uk).
126 Wales
The Wye continues south from the Elan junction, often shallow but
sometimes pooling where it meets rocky seams. Pen-doll Rocks
75 at Builth Wells is a particularly impressive series of pools and rapids.
Wildlife along this stretch includes ravens, red kite, buzzards, herons,
kingfishers, peregrines and otters.
75
As it reaches the north escarpment of the Brecon Beacons the
Upper Wye and Elan
Wye is forced to turn abruptly north-east and arrives in the charming,
bookshop-filled town of Hay-on-Wye, a place that loves to swim. 73 Elan Wye junction pool 74 Pen-doll Rocks 75 The Warren
The Warren, a twenty-minute walk upstream from the town centre, Town: Rhayader Town: Builth Wells Town: Hay-on-Wye
Grid ref: SN 967656 Grid ref: SO 032521 Grid ref: SO 222426
73 is the place to paddle, skim stones or watch hapless canoeists Postcode: LD1 6NS (1.5km N) Postcode: LD2 3RD (100 S) Postcode: HR3 5YH
negotiate the rapids from the long pebble beach. Further upstream Water quality: A Water quality: A Water quality: A
Depth/size: swim, dive, paddle Depth/size: paddle, swim, current Depth/size: paddle, swim
the river is deeper and a longer swim is possible. During the Hay
Walking: 1 min, easy Walking: 2 mins, difficult Walking: 10 mins, moderate
Festival you’ll find it packed with people from all over the world, Train: Llandrindod Wells, 10km Train: Builth Road, 1km Train: Hereford, 20km
propped up on one elbow reading with their picnics and Pimms. Extras: Elan reservoirs Extras: Royal Welsh Show Ground Extras: Bookshops of Hay-on-Wye
i A wide deep junction of the Elan and i An exciting stretch of the Wye i A popular stretch of commoner’s
These grassy banks had been used to catch rabbits since medieval the Wye. Deepish section to jump into narrowing through rocky cliffs. meadow by the side of the Wye. White
from bank. Shallower paddles upstream. Downstream are safe white sandy bays. shingle beach and shallows below the
times but in the 1970s a scheme was proposed to convert the Open and grassy. Elan is on reservoir Upstream the water deepens through rapids / bend, and deeper section above.
Warren into a caravan park. Local businesses and residents were release and can be very cold. a small gorge with rock formations. Tree shade. Good for paddlers. Beautiful
Dangerous in high water. setting. Rough track with parking.
‘Rocks piled on each other so horrified they decided to club together to purchase the field. 18km N of Builth Wells on A470
(or 5km S of Rhayader) turn L (R) over From central Builth Wells follow Approaching Hay-on-Wye from the
to tremendous heights, rivers A ‘20 Club’, set up to find twenty supporters, quickly mushroomed bridge and into Llanwrthwl. Go through A470 N (dir Rhayader) over bridge to west on B4530 turn L just after 30mph
formed into cataracts by into the ‘300 Club’ that continues to run to this day. The outpouring village and up hill (600m), then turn R at the roundabout in front of Royal Show speed sign, into business park. Continue
T-junction. Follow narrow lane 1.8km to Ground (junction A483 / A470). Follow 200m through residential housing and,
their projections, and valleys of community spirit that was catalysed by this swimming hole led to find bridleway on R, signed ‘Wye Valley A470 exactly 1km, past garage and large after road bends to R with speed bump,
clothed with woods, present an other community initiatives and restoration projects. Anyone can join Walk’, which leads to junction pool (50m) lay-by to park in small second lay-by on L, look for narrow rough track on L. Follow
by bench and near footbridge. Follow lane opposite wide entrance to ‘Penmaenau’. down for 400m to find parking. River is
appearance of enchantment…’ the Warren Club and membership is still £13, as it has been since on to reach Elan village and beginning Find informal path L, over crash barrier below, to L. From town follow the river
Percy Shelley, on his walk 1973, though non members are free to use the area of spectacular drive around famous and down steep wooded bank to river upstream for 500m.
flooded valleys. and Pen-doll Rocks.
to Rhayader, 1811 (www.wayonhigh.org.uk).
Wales 129
Waterfall Woods
Coed-y-Rhaiadr means ‘waterfall woods’ and you’ll not find
a more impressive network of forest lidos and falling water
anywhere in Wales.
Like many wooded waterfalls in Wales this valley has its share
of legends. It was from a cave by the riverside here that Elidorus,
a fourth-century priest, found a passageway to a secret land from
which he tried to steal a golden ball. The next waterfall along,
Sgwd Gwladys, or Lady Falls, is named after the daughter of King
Brychan who ruled here in the tenth century. The falls occupy
a giant amphitheatre rimmed with a lip of dark black gritstone.
The great bowl holds a wide pool of gentle water and shingle
beach. Moss and fern grow in profusion in this misty microclimate
and many say this is the most beautiful waterfall in Wales.
I arrived at midday and the sun was high enough to light up the
sunken woodbine and ragwort-draped glade. A slender chute of
77 Lady Falls in spate at Coed-y-Rhaiadr, South Wales
Wales 129
Waterfall Woods
Coed-y-Rhaiadr means ‘waterfall woods’ and you’ll not find
a more impressive network of forest lidos and falling water
anywhere in Wales.
Like many wooded waterfalls in Wales this valley has its share
of legends. It was from a cave by the riverside here that Elidorus,
a fourth-century priest, found a passageway to a secret land from
which he tried to steal a golden ball. The next waterfall along,
Sgwd Gwladys, or Lady Falls, is named after the daughter of King
Brychan who ruled here in the tenth century. The falls occupy
a giant amphitheatre rimmed with a lip of dark black gritstone.
The great bowl holds a wide pool of gentle water and shingle
beach. Moss and fern grow in profusion in this misty microclimate
and many say this is the most beautiful waterfall in Wales.
I arrived at midday and the sun was high enough to light up the
sunken woodbine and ragwort-draped glade. A slender chute of
77 Lady Falls in spate at Coed-y-Rhaiadr, South Wales
130 Wales
water was falling from a high ledge beneath slopes of oak and
beech. Tiptoeing into the pebble shallows, I dove into the deeper
parts of the plunge pool and swam underwater in the peaty
darkness, hearing the drone of the water hum between my ears
and the movement of the falls vibrate across my skin. Breaking the
surface close to the far wall I clambered out onto a ledge of wet rock
that leads around behind the falls.
76
Lady Falls is variable: sometimes it can be a roaring cascade,
at other times a trickle. If you’re well equipped and have time you
may be able to bushwhack your way up a further kilometre through
the forest above Lady Falls to find the falls of Einion Gam, named 78
after Gwladys’ lover. This is twice as tall, and its pool is cut into a Waterfall Woods
sheer-sided ravine. Back at the footbridge and junction pool a rather
76 Little Canyon 77 Sgwd Gwladys / Lady Falls 78 Horseshoe Falls
precipitous path leads on to the Horseshoe Falls and two perfectly
Town: Pontneddfechan Town: Pontneddfechan Town: Pontneddfechan
elliptical pools, like emerald lidos, lying deep in the forest. Grid ref: SN 899087 Grid ref: SN 896093 Grid ref: SN 903097
76 Postcode: SA11 5UD (500m E) Postcode: SA11 5UR (500m S) Postcode: SA11 5UR (500m SE)
In the parallel valley of the Melte, leading up to Ystradfellte, there are Water quality: A Water quality: A Water quality: A
Depth/size: swim, dive Depth/size: paddle, swim Depth/size: swim, dive, current
yet more waterfalls. At one of the most famous, Scwd yr Eira, an
Walking: 15 mins, moderate Walking: 25 mins, moderate Walking: 45 mins, difficult
ancient drover’s road passes behind the flow. In another the entire Train: Aberdare, 12km Train: Aberdare, 12km Train: Aberdare, 12km
river disappears into the caverns of Porth yr Ogof, one of the largest Extras: Scwd yr Eira Extras: Henrhyd Falls, Coelbren Extras: Ystradfellte and Porth yr Ogof cave
cave systems in Europe. i An exciting and relatively safe piece i A graceful column of water falls 10m i A fantastic set of deep forest plunge
of gorge swimming. A pool flows slowly into a deep, large plunge pool set in an pools beneath a horseshoe-shaped
through a deep, narrow channel, 5m amphitheatre in the woods. Swim beneath waterfall.
This extraordinary landscape was laid down in layers of time. wide for about 30m. There’s a large rocky fall. Climb up behind fall and then dive
The oldest limestone was formed from the shells of sea creatures outcrop by path to watch from, or jump back in. Continue on from Little Canyon
77 in from. Dangerous when flooding. 500m and arrive at junction pool with
that inhabited the early tropical seas and these soft layers have Continue on from Little Canyon footbridges. Cross first footbridge, turn
Pontneddfechan is 2km from Glyn 500m and arrive at junction pool with R and bear L (up main river, Neddfechan)
been eroded into the plunge pools. The harder red sandstones and Neath on the A465 from Swansea footbridges. The pool here is deep and for a further 800m along an often muddy
gritstones above were compressed out of the desert sands that (or A470 Merthyr Tydfil from Cardiff). From large and good for swimming. Cross first and steep path. The main pool drains
the roadside Angel Inn turn L and find iron bridge and turn L (up Afron Pyrddin), into a second pool almost as big. In
covered the earth just before the dinosaurs and these form the hard gates just before the old bridge into the past Lime Pool (300m) to reach tall normal flows these pools are flat and
lip at the top of the falls. Finally there are the carboniferous, or coal- woods. Follow the river on good path for waterfall with pool (450m). Flow can vary relatively calm. Above the path leads
1.3km (20 mins). An open field and gate considerably and can dry up altogether, on to Lower Ddwli (150m, SN 904098)
bearing, seams, the remains of the first forests that colonised earth on L marks halfway. If you reach the picnic though pool remains. Access to viewing and Upper Ddwli (400m, SN 906099)
once the seas and deserts receded. Warped, compressed and tables you’ve gone too far. platform on L. Einion Gam Falls 1km for yet more dips.
upstream, no path (SN 890094).
contorted, all these eons of time are visible in the waterfalls.
130 Wales
water was falling from a high ledge beneath slopes of oak and
beech. Tiptoeing into the pebble shallows, I dove into the deeper
parts of the plunge pool and swam underwater in the peaty
darkness, hearing the drone of the water hum between my ears
and the movement of the falls vibrate across my skin. Breaking the
surface close to the far wall I clambered out onto a ledge of wet rock
that leads around behind the falls.
76
Lady Falls is variable: sometimes it can be a roaring cascade,
at other times a trickle. If you’re well equipped and have time you
may be able to bushwhack your way up a further kilometre through
the forest above Lady Falls to find the falls of Einion Gam, named 78
after Gwladys’ lover. This is twice as tall, and its pool is cut into a Waterfall Woods
sheer-sided ravine. Back at the footbridge and junction pool a rather
76 Little Canyon 77 Sgwd Gwladys / Lady Falls 78 Horseshoe Falls
precipitous path leads on to the Horseshoe Falls and two perfectly
Town: Pontneddfechan Town: Pontneddfechan Town: Pontneddfechan
elliptical pools, like emerald lidos, lying deep in the forest. Grid ref: SN 899087 Grid ref: SN 896093 Grid ref: SN 903097
76 Postcode: SA11 5UD (500m E) Postcode: SA11 5UR (500m S) Postcode: SA11 5UR (500m SE)
In the parallel valley of the Melte, leading up to Ystradfellte, there are Water quality: A Water quality: A Water quality: A
Depth/size: swim, dive Depth/size: paddle, swim Depth/size: swim, dive, current
yet more waterfalls. At one of the most famous, Scwd yr Eira, an
Walking: 15 mins, moderate Walking: 25 mins, moderate Walking: 45 mins, difficult
ancient drover’s road passes behind the flow. In another the entire Train: Aberdare, 12km Train: Aberdare, 12km Train: Aberdare, 12km
river disappears into the caverns of Porth yr Ogof, one of the largest Extras: Scwd yr Eira Extras: Henrhyd Falls, Coelbren Extras: Ystradfellte and Porth yr Ogof cave
cave systems in Europe. i An exciting and relatively safe piece i A graceful column of water falls 10m i A fantastic set of deep forest plunge
of gorge swimming. A pool flows slowly into a deep, large plunge pool set in an pools beneath a horseshoe-shaped
through a deep, narrow channel, 5m amphitheatre in the woods. Swim beneath waterfall.
This extraordinary landscape was laid down in layers of time. wide for about 30m. There’s a large rocky fall. Climb up behind fall and then dive
The oldest limestone was formed from the shells of sea creatures outcrop by path to watch from, or jump back in. Continue on from Little Canyon
77 in from. Dangerous when flooding. 500m and arrive at junction pool with
that inhabited the early tropical seas and these soft layers have Continue on from Little Canyon footbridges. Cross first footbridge, turn
Pontneddfechan is 2km from Glyn 500m and arrive at junction pool with R and bear L (up main river, Neddfechan)
been eroded into the plunge pools. The harder red sandstones and Neath on the A465 from Swansea footbridges. The pool here is deep and for a further 800m along an often muddy
gritstones above were compressed out of the desert sands that (or A470 Merthyr Tydfil from Cardiff). From large and good for swimming. Cross first and steep path. The main pool drains
the roadside Angel Inn turn L and find iron bridge and turn L (up Afron Pyrddin), into a second pool almost as big. In
covered the earth just before the dinosaurs and these form the hard gates just before the old bridge into the past Lime Pool (300m) to reach tall normal flows these pools are flat and
lip at the top of the falls. Finally there are the carboniferous, or coal- woods. Follow the river on good path for waterfall with pool (450m). Flow can vary relatively calm. Above the path leads
1.3km (20 mins). An open field and gate considerably and can dry up altogether, on to Lower Ddwli (150m, SN 904098)
bearing, seams, the remains of the first forests that colonised earth on L marks halfway. If you reach the picnic though pool remains. Access to viewing and Upper Ddwli (400m, SN 906099)
once the seas and deserts receded. Warped, compressed and tables you’ve gone too far. platform on L. Einion Gam Falls 1km for yet more dips.
upstream, no path (SN 890094).
contorted, all these eons of time are visible in the waterfalls.
WILD
Daniel Start spent his childhood Wild Swimming provides all the
WILD swimming
river-swimming, dam-making and raft- New from practical information you’ll need to find
building in Herefordshire. He trained the publishers of and enjoy over 150 magical swims in
swimming
as a naturalist and, at the age of 22, some of the least discovered parts of
was taken hostage in the rainforests our stunning freshwater landscape.
of New Guinea. His first book, The Open
Cage, described his time swimming and In this great British tour you’ll be able to
trekking with riverine tribes and freedom swim with otters in Devon, go river-tubing
fighters there and won the 1997 Writer’s in Yorkshire, night-swim under the stars
Guild Award for Non-fiction. He has 150 hidden dips in the rivers, in Oxfordshire and learn how to build a
woodland sauna. In each chapter you’ll
spent the last five years documenting, lakes and waterfalls of Britain discover famous wild-swimmers of the
photographing and exploring the wilds
and wild waters, of Britain. past and read stories of heroes, lovers
and ordinary folk who have long enjoyed
On a hot summer day, what could be bathing under the willows.
Register at www.wildswimming.com
more refreshing than slipping into the cool,
to receive monthly updates on magical Ideas for waterside games and activities
clear waters of a secret lake? And what
new swimming locations across the UK will make sure everyone’s having fun,
could be more exciting than plunging into
and beyond. including younger children and families,
a hidden waterfall?
while there’s also information for those
Britain’s rivers, lakes and waterfalls are cleaner, who like a wilder experience: leave the car
Other titles from Punk Publishing:
safer and more accessible than at any time in living at home and go canoe, mountain or cycle
Cool Camping: England memory and the health benefits of a natural dip swimming! Further sections will help you
Cool Camping: Scotland are increasingly well known. To celebrate, award- identify riverside wildlife, find wild foods,
Cool Camping: Wales winning author, photographer and jungle hostage make a homemade raft and understand
Cool Camping: France Daniel Start set out to find Britain’s 150 favourite how to stay safe.
The Cool Camping Cookbook swimming holes and discovered that the art of
More info at www.coolcamping.co.uk taking a wilderness dip is far from lost. Wild Swimming combines inspirational
photos, engaging writing and practical
information to make this a truly unique
British travel guide.
Daniel Start
WWF works to promote the health and enjoyment
of Britain’s freshwaters. Find out more by visiting
www.wwf.org.uk/freshwater
New from the publishers of Daniel Start £14.95