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Tablesaw ligs
Rippi n gJ i g Thin- S t r ip
F e e ls a f e rs i z i n gt i n y p i e c e s .

TaperingJig Four-Sided
Shape table legs fast.

10 12 16 18

Dead-On90' Crosscut Sled

Squareboards easilyon your tablesaw.

Jig Rais ed- P anel

Createthree styles of doors.

Jig Corner-Rabbeting
Dress up miteredframes with face keys.

Jig S pline- Cut t ing

Giveframe corners a new look.

Router Iigs
20 22 24 26 29 32 33 33 34 35 36 38 Two-PartDado Jig
shelves. Rout dadoes for perfect-fitting

Jig Dow e l i n g M ult i- Hole

Positiondowels for even sPactng.

Two Pushsticks
With these projects,it's all about safety.

y o u ' l ln e e d t h i s j i g , F o r a c c u r a t ec i r c l e s ,


Flus h- T r im m in g F e n c e
on plywoodpanels Put a professronaledge

M or t is ingJ ig
Rout dead-on lz"-wide mortises.

K ey hole- Rout i nJ gi g
f r a m e sj u s t g o t e a s i e r . H a n g i n gp r c t u r e

Jig P anel- Rout ing

p a n e l sf r o m M D F . Cut super-simple

Trammel Circle-Cutting
T h i n k b i g , p e r f e c tc i r c l e sw i t h t h i s j i g .

Push Pad Router-Table

tearout. s u p p o r tt o m t n i m i z e Right-angle

More Iigs
47 51 52 54

Dovetail-Key Jig
Cut dovetailkeys with ease.

Jig Router-Planing
jig tames wild grain. This surfacing

Ba ndsawMul ti -Ji g
Make your 14" bandsaw do more.

Drill-Press Iigs
40 45 Table Drill-Press
Transformyour drill press into a shop star.

AlignableBandsaw Fence
U s e t h i s . a n d r i o c u t s w i l l n e v e rw a n d e r .

Gui de C i r cl e-C utti ng

Make perfect disks at your bandsaw.

D u s t C o l l e c to r S anding- Dr um
Removefine dust at the source.

Ji g Bi s cui t-Joi nter

materialeffortlesslv. Cut slots in 3/+" Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2008

Homemade Tools
57 61 62 64 68 72 74 Hand Plane
This littleshaverfits your hand like a glove.

Set the precise saw blade height every time.

MarkingGauge Rely onthisclassic toolforproject layouts. Dead-BlowMallet

Coax parts togetherwith this tool.

Workcenters & Supports

108 RollingWorkshop Storage
Mobilizeyour storage and organization.

Marking Knife
Scribed lineshave never looked cleaner.

SandingBlock projects Prep with this shopmade beauty. Centerfinder/Trammel

Simplifythe layoutof circlesor arcs.

1O9 Tapes-to-goWall-HungDispensers
Readyto roll when you need them.

11O Rock-SolidWorkbench
Build this basic workbench in a weekend.

Shop Organizers
78 79 80 81 82 85 88 89 92 96 98 Tool-CabinetSystem
Find lots of drawers, shelves,and dividers,

111 WorkbenchUpgrades your Six add-ons increase bench's versatility. 115 Outfeed Table Ina supporting role, this table shines 118 3-in-1Work Support Try these ways safer to machine long stock. 124 Right-Angle Support gOo Clamping glue-ups. squares ensure 126 Portable FinishingCenter Use thisplastic tent fordust-free finishing. 128 Portable Workstation Upgrades Expand clamping workstations theeasy way.

Mitersaw Work Station

Expandyour tool's horizons.

Buildhorizontal storagefor bulky plywood.

Wall Gabinet Tidy upyour shop with this solution. Drill/Driver Organizer
Multitieredbox bdngs order to your bits.

Storage Tray your Tuck tools beneath wall-hung cabinets. ClamshellCabinetDoors your Double space fortools andhardware. Quick Clamp Rack your Corral clamps atthis station. Lumber Storage your Organize wood forgood. Lathe-StandRetrofit your Create storage beneath lathe. Utility Cabinet System your garage Whip orshop into shape.

1O7 RevolvingStorage platform Lazy-Susan expands storage.


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Editor-in-Chief BILL KRIER Managing MARLEN Editor KEMMET Deputy Editor DAVE CAMPBELT Publication WriterCARL V0SS Techniques Editor B0BWILSON Tool & Techniques Editor B0BHUNTER Multimedia Editor LUCAS PETERS Multimedia Editor CRAIG RUEGSEGGER Project Editor LARRY J0HNST0N Design Editor KEVIN B0YLE Senior Design Editor JEFF MERTZ Production/0ffice Manager MARGARET CL0SNER Administrative Assistant SHERYL MUNY0N Photographers MARTY BALDWIN, DONNELLY JASON DEAN SCHOEPPNER, JAY WILDE Contributing lllustrators TIMCAHILL, L0RNA J0HNSON, ROXANNE LeM0lNE Contributing Craftsman JIM HEAVEY Contributing Proofreader JIMSANDERS ArtDirector KARL EHLERS Project ArtDirector 0N-PURPOS, lNC. Associate ArtDirector GREG SELLERS Assistant Art DirectorCHERYL A. CIBULA SUBSCRIB SE EB RVICE o to woodmaqazine.com,,help P.O. Box37439, or writeto WOODmagazine, Boone. lA 50037-0439 PublisherMARK L. HAGEN ADVERTISING ANDMARKETING 1500, CHICAG0: 333N.Michigan Ave., Suite Chicago, lL60601 Marketing Manager AMANDA SALH00T Advertising Manager JACK CHRISTIANSEN Account Executive RYAN INTERTAND Direct Response Advertising Representative LISA GREENWOOD Assistants GAYLE CHEJN, NIAWILIIAMS Navigate Media ATLANTA: DETR0IT RPM Associates Business Manager STILES JEFF Associate Consumer Marketing Director DANHOLLAND Associate Director of Marketing-Newsstand TOMDEERING Production Manager SANDY wlLtlAMS Advertising Operations Manager JIMNELSoN E-Commerce Manager MATT SNYDER Vice PresidenVGrouo Publisher TOMDAVIS MEREDITH PUBLISHING GROUP President JACK GRIFFIN Executive Vice President DOUG OLSON Revenue Chief 0fficerTOMHARDY Finance MIKE RIGGS & Administration Manufacturing HESTON BRUCE Marketing Consumer DAVID BALL Corporate SalesMICHAEL BROWNSTEIN Meredith JACK BAMBERGER 360O Interactive Media LAUREN WIENER Corporate Marketing NANCY WEBER Research BRITTA WARE Technology TINASTEIL Chief 0fficer New Media Marketing Services ANDY WILSON

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President and ChieiExecutive Officer STEPHEN M. LACY

plans Download any0fthese woodworking fortheprices listed, or (S+H). have mailed them directly to youforanadditional $3perplan yourself g0t0 For downloading theplan 0rt0 viewa larger image, paper plans For woodmagadno.comlplans. shipped to you, call your Please have credit l0ll ftw l-888-030.fl[78. card available.

Chairman of the Board WILLIAM T.KERR - E.T. In Memoriam Meredith lll (1933-2003)
Meredith 2006,2008. Allrights reserved. Printed intheu.S.A. @Copyright Corporation Retail Sales Retailers canorder 0f W00D forresale copies jenniferbuser@meredilh.com. bye-mailing


BEruOO8 Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers

sk seasoned woodworkers about the benefitsof stocking a shop with a variety of hardworking jigs. They'll likely tell you that
somejigs get used again and again, while others gather dust. We guarantee that these six jigs will be worth your investment in time and materials.

For example, afteryou takean eveningor two to build the sledon page 10,we predict that you'll constantly use the crosscut sled jig for repetitive Thefour-sided cuts. tapering jig provide andspline-cutting you with more specialized techniques. We constructed mostof these shophelpers from Baltic birch plywood and hard

you can substitute maple. If you pref-er, medium-densityfiberboard (MDF) for plywood and anotherdensehardwoodfor maple.SeeSources on pctgeI I for help in buyingthe inexpensive hardware items you'll needfor thejigs in this chapter. Seepage 6l for a simple height gauge jigs. that complements thesetablesaw





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you needto rip several onretinres thickthin strips of wood to eclr-ral veneer. ness to serve as ed-uin-u. o r b e n c l i n gs t o c k . S l i c i n e o f f t h i n stock on the f'enceside of the blacle.I'urwThat's becartse ever. could prove Lrnsal'e. it beconres awkwarcl to use your blacle guarci and pr-rshstick when yoll cLlt close to the I'ence. Tlie solLrtion: Run the wicle portion ol- yoLrr workpiece between the f'encearrclblacle.cLrttin_s tl'restrips on thc sicleol'the blade opposite the f'ence.YoLr uo r ' c o u l c l a c c o n i p l i s ht h i s b y n r e a s u r i n - f e a c h c u t . b L r tt h a t ' s t e c l i o u sa n c l i t r a c c u r a t e . T h i s t h i n - s t r i p r i p p i n - t. j i - l c l o e st h e job saf-ely. accurately.anclcluickly. Ref'erto Sources or.l/)rr,ga11 lbr harclware firr this prolect. Cut two pieces of rnaple to size fbr the dithe nriter-slot-guidebar (acliust r l e n s i o n s s h c l w ni f n e c e s s a r yt o f i t y o u r s l o t s )a n d t h e s l i c l i n - b s a r .C c t t tablesaw's bar in the bottont ter tl'remiter-skrt-uuicle i t i n p l a c e .D r i l l a p a i r o f c l a d o .a n d g h - r e bar. where shown. /r," holes in tl'resliclin-g scrollsawthe nraterialbetweenthetl. attcl sn.rooth the insicleof the slot with a file. /'s lel.t Set the jig in yor.rr tablesit\ slot. Place the sliclingbar niiter--eau-{e with the in tl-re cladowith its lelt enclfh"rsh base.Slide the ji-s tbrward. and mark the

F:!r':s9.. klaxsEd 9*ts* $rs*

CLrt a piece of 7i" plywoocl to the shown tirl the base on clinrensions yrgc 7. Cut a clitcloon the bottclrn sicleof the base lbr the guicle bar. where sl.town. Now. cut the y'+"clacloon the top side ol' t h e b a s el u r t h e s l i d i n e b a r .


To make a cursor, scribe a line across t h e a c r y l i ci n d i c a t o r w i t h a s h a r pk n i f e a n d a s q u a r e .C o l o r t h e s c r i b e dl i n e w i t h a permanentmarker.Wipe off the excess i n k w i t h a c l o t h , l e a v i n ga f i n e l i n e .


S i z ey o u r t h i n - s t r i pr i p p i n gj i g t o s u i t y o u r tablesaw, so that a 1" screwin the guide b a r c a n c o n t a c tt h e b l a d e .l n s t a l l a z e r o clearancethroat plate to preventthe s a w n s t r i p f r o m f a l l i n gi n t o t h e s a w .

R e m o v et h e j i g b e f o r em a k i n gt h e c u t s o the workpiece doesn't bind betweenthe rip fence and the screw head. Replacethe j i g i n t h e s l o t w i t h o u t m a k i n ga n y a d j u s t ments to set up the next cut.

B e s t - E v e rW o o d w o r k i n gJ i g s , H o m e m a d eT o o l s ,& S h o p O r g a n i z e r s 2 0 0 8

Four-armknob with t/+"insert




G./ -w r

#8 x 1" brassF.H.

#8 x3/q"F.H. wood screw\



t/q"llal washer

5/0" slot

.! Yse" shank hote, I t ii .'"o'o!l"r:tottn



Z 2'-^fi1

Cursorline t/+x 11/z x 2" clear acrylic

s/+" dado 1t/sz"deap

1tl2"sectionof steel rule

1/zx3/q x 9"

/+" hole, countersunk on bottomside

I i


t / + - 2x 0 11/z'F.H.machin er e w- - - - - - - - sc


point wherea left-leaningsawblade tooth - touchesthe bar. Make a secondmark t/2" closer to the base.Removethe bar, and crosscutit at the secondmark. 7/e+" pilot hole in the slid',rl Drill a tfing bar, centeredon the end you just cut. Drive a brass screw halfway into the wood. (We used brass to avoid any chance of damaging a tablesaw blade.) You'll turn this screw in or out to finetune your jig's basic "zero" setting,or to adjustit for a blade of different thickness or with a different tooth set. fiFrom the bottom sideof the assembly, Udrill andcountersink a Vq" holethrough the miter-slotguide bar and basefor the machine screwthatholds theplastic knob. Sandall of the wood parts to 180grit, and apply three coatsof clear finish. ftMake a mark 1" from the left end of uthe sliding bar. Cut the first lr/2" from

an inexpensive steelrule, align its left end with the mark, and attachit with epoxy. a piece of t/q" acrylic to the JCut f dimensions shown for the indicaror. Drill and countersink the two mounting holes, and scribe and mark a cursor line. as shown in Photo A. Attach the indicatorto the base,and add the knob.

Now, cut some strips

To cut a thin strip with the jig, place its guide bar in the left-handmiter gaugeslot on your tablesaw. Loosenthe knob, set the cursorto zero (the bottom end of the rule), and retightenthe knob. Slide thejig so that the brassscrewheadis beside the sawblade. Turn the screwin or out with a screwdriver until the head lightly contactsa leftleaning tooth. Pull the jig toward you, loosen the knob, setthe cursorfor the desiredstrip thickness, and retightenthe knob.

Position your workpiece againstthe rip fence,and move the fenceto bring the left edge of the workpieceagainstthe screw head, as shown in Photo B. Lock the fence,setthejig out of the way, and you're readyto cut a strip, as shownin Photo G. After completingthe cut, clean up the workpieceon the jointer. Replacethe jig in the slot. Then unlock the rip fence, move it to bring the jointed edge against the screwhead,lock the rip fence,remove the jig, and saw anotherstrip. Repeatthe process as many times as necessaryto produceall of the strips that you needfor your project..F
Writtenby Jim Pollock with Jeff Mertz and Kevin Boyle lllustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson

Four-$ided Tapering Jig

Here'sa slick way to taper four sidesof a table leg-all with one simplejig.
ou can taperone sideof a table leg without much head-scratching, but taperingall four sidesequally presents With moreof a challenge. youcancutall four tapers thisjig, however, You simply without changingyour setup. rotateyour workpiecebetweencuts. Locatethehold-downs to suitthelength of your workpiece.(The pivot block can sit at eitherendof thejig.) If your tablesaw youcanhandleworkpieces hasa 10"blade, up to 2" thick. Refer to Sources on page I I for hardware for this project. in the the groove,with eachhole centered grooveandVz" from theend.Cut a 3" piece from each end to make two hold-down Next, glue one guide bar piece in bases. the grooveon eachhold-downbase.After holethrougheach the gluedries,drill a t/q" assembly,using the previously drilled holesas guides. t/qx2xl2" to ;fi Cut a maple blank to afmake the pivot block.(We begin with pieceto assure safetyduring an oversized the cutting process.) Cut a rabbeton one end of the blank, where shownon Drawing la. Now, drill two holesto form the ends of the adjustmentslot, remove the materialbetween the holeswith a coping saw or scrollsaw,and clean up the slot centered on the with a file. Cut aVq"sroove bottom edgeof the blank. Next, drrll a Vq" hole centeredin the groove2Vz"ftom the rabbetedend. Glue in the 3t/2" gurdebar piece, making it flush with the rabbeted end. After the glue dries, drill a t/q"hole through the blank, using the previously drilled hole as a guide.Trim the blank to 3/i' rn length.Sandandfinish the assembly. fiAssemble the hold-downsas shown. t#For the pivot block, file or grind one edge of the washer flat, as shown on the nut, Drawing 1a, and then assemble screw,and washeras shown. Adjustable up or down in the slot, this screw serves as an indexingpin. Once setfor a particthat every ular workpiece, it guarantees is an equal distance cut in the sequence from the centerof the workpiece.

zA" ply@ For the base.cut a piece of & wood to the size shownon Drawing 1, then cut a pieceof t/q"hardboardto the samedimensions. s/s"dadoes3Ao"deepin one face ffiCut &of the plywood, where dimensioned. Glue the hardboard to the dadoed face with yellow glue. Now, clamp the assembly between two scrapsof plywood to ensure even pressure.After the glue dries, removethe clamps,set your dado blade for a t/+"-wide cut, put an auxiliary fenceon your miter gauge,and cut a slot throughthe hardboard, centered overeach plywood dado,as shownin Photo A. r/qx3/8x12", ffiCut a piece of maple to ffi1fen cut two 3" pieces and one 3t/2" piecefrom this blank for the guide bars. For the hold-downbases, cut a piece of 7+"plywood to lv2xl2". Cut a t/q"groove down the center of one face of this plywood,wheredimensioned on thedrawing. Drill two /+" holesnear opposite endsof 8

Buildthe jig

After cutting dadoes in the plywood base, glue the hardboard to the dadoed face. Mount the two outside blades of a dado set in your tablesaw,and cut slots through the hardboard centered over each dado.

Diagonal lines on the end of the workpiece locate the hole that fits onto the indexing pin. Draw the cutline for the final shape, and extend the lines to the edges to help you position the workpiece on the jig.

Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers

IexeloDED vtEW
knob Plastic L/-'t/+" H'LD Dow. tr;,lrilL. ",, s/qx1|/z x'3" plywood
1/z' 7z J*/ 4-

Four-arm knob wilh th" inseft


flal washer



tZ" slots 1/q" deep, centeredover Te"dadoes

1/+ x 3" panhead machine screw

l/qx 12 x 36" hardboard 7e"dadoes s/o"deep



3/+ x 12 x 36" plywood

lE PtvorBLocK Tap into tapering

To taper a leg, cut your workpieceto its finished length,then rip it to the square dimensionsthat you want for the untaperedsectionat the upperend.Draw a line on all four facesto mark wherethe taper will begin. Drill a t/q" centeringhole 3/s" deepat the centerofthe bottom end, and add cut lines to show the final dimensionsof that end, as shownin Photo B. Draw cut lines on the face connecting the leg-bottom marks with the taperstart marks. This helps you visualize the final shape, andserves asa safetyreminder as you pushthejig across the saw. Mount the leg-centering hole on the indexingpin. Slide the pivot block until the plannedoutsideface of the leg aligns with the edgeof the jig. Thrn the knob to lock the pivot block in place. Now, near the upper end of the leg, align the taperstart cutline with the edgeof thejig. Slide the hold-downblocks againstthe leg, and tightenthe nylon nut on eachoneto setthe block's position.Tighten the top knob on eachhold-downto clampthe leg in place. Raise the saw blade t/q" abovethe leg. Butt the jig to the fence,move the fence until the saw blade just clears the left side of the jig, and then make the cut, as shown in Photo C. To make each of the three remaining cuts, loosen the holddown knobs, rotate the leg one-quarter turn clockwise(asviewedfrom the pivoting end),reclamp,and cut.

This jig alsoserves another purpose, as shownin Photo D. When you needto cut a singletaper,mark its start and stoppoints on the end and edge of your workpiece. Remove the indexing pin from the end block, andnestthe endof the workpiecein the notch.Align the marks with the edge of thejig, andclamp.Placeyourhold-downs againstthe workpiece.Tighten the pivot block in place,and make the cut. i


" rabbets/ro" deep


e/sz" slot
th" gloove i 3/a x 31/2" 3/6" deep, IDE BAR centered

' t/+"washer, filedto allow nut to engage the rabbet

Hold the taper jig tightly against the tablesaw rip fence as you cut. Before starting each pass, make certain that your left hand is well away from the line.

The width and adjustability of the taper jig allow you to handle a wide range of angle cuts. Here,with the jig flipped endfor-end, we're shaping a simple leg.


g0o Dead-0n

Sled Crosscut
Whenyou build this sled,Your accuracy and efficiencyat the tablesawwill soar.
ieliable tablesaw miter gauge t handles a lot of crosscutting tl but not all. It rides in just fltutks,. the workrone slot, and suPPorts a pieceon just one sideof the blade,allowing for slop. This problem disappears, however,with an accuratecrosscutsled. and simOur designis both inexpensive ple to build. Plus, it includes reliable, cuts.From stopsfor repeatable adjustable the momentyou put this jig to useat your tablesaw, you'll discover that making right-anglecuts is easierand safer. plywood, and rf Selecta flat pieceof 3/q" I cut the platform to the dimensions shownon Drawing 1. forthe maplepieces f)Cut two 72x3x30" &fence, and cut a s/a"groove%e" deep in the face of one piece, where shown on Drawing 1a. Glue the two blanks keepingthe edgesflush and the together, groove on the interior of the lamination. groovecenAfter the glue dries, cut a Vq" groove.Then, cut a rabbet teredon the s/s" along the front of the bottom edge and a t/2"groovecenteredalong the top edge. flFrom 3/+"maple, cut the blade guard Usides and end.Glue and screwthe end to the sides.Now, screwthe blade guard to the fence,whereshownon Drawing 1. f, Cut the front rail from:/+" maple.Use rfa jigsaw to cut a notch, where shown, for the blade to passthrough. Attach the front rail and the fence to the platform with screws. frCut, sand, and finish two toP blade tfguard supports.Using a fine-toothed tablesawblade, cut a piece of Vq"clear acrylic to size for the blade guard cover. Attach the cover to the supportsand the front rail. 3/q"maple stock, cut two strips ftFrom [Jto serveas miter-slotguide bars. Set your tablesawrip fence 8%" to the right of the blade, and lower the blade below the table'ssurface.(Note: Make sureyour fence is parallel to the miter gauge slot before proceeding.)Apply double-faced tape to the top of each guide bar, and attach the bars to the platform, as shownin Photos A and B. Remove the assemblY from the saw,and permanentlyattachthe bars with screws. JCut a piece for the stopblock,and cut f a dado in the back, where shown.Cut a guide bar, and glue it into the dado. Drill a shankhole through the block and bar, where shown.Now, cut a pieceof Vq" acrylic plasticto sizefor the stopblockindicator.SeeDrawing 1b. Drill, saw,and file smooththe slot, where shown.Make a cursorline, as shownin Photo A. QRemove the top bladeguard, sandthe l0iig, and apply three coats of finish. andinthebladeguard,assemble Reattach sled crosscut place the the stopblock, stall on your tablesaw,and make a cut from the front edge through the fence. Use a rule to setthe stopblock4" from the kerf. Mark the centerof the stopblock on its top

Build a real workhorse

Two pennies shim the miter-slot guide bars slightly above the tablesaw surface. Place a couple of these stacks in each miter-gaugeslot, and set the bars on top.

Keepingthe rightend of the platform against the rip fence, set the sled assembly on the guides. Press down firmly to stick the bars to the platform.

Hold the workpiece firmly against the fence as you make a cut. Keep your hands outside the blade guard, and don't cut through its end.


Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers

vrEW E exploDED
# 8 x s / q "F . H . wood screw



1/qx31/qx223/q" 3/qx3/qx161/q"



7ax1Bx30" plywood


1/qx1 x13/q"

# 8 x 1 1 / z 'F . H . wood screw



# 8 x 1 1 / z 'F . H . wood screw


Self-adhesive measuring rule



1x3x30" stopblock

sAax3/qx18" miter-slot guide bars



# 8 x 1 1 / z 'F . H . wood screw

t/q" dado t/q" deep 7/a"from top edge

#8 x 1/2" F.H.wood screw

end,align the 4" line on the self-adhesive measuring tapewith thatmark,andattach the tapein the fencegroove.Usetin snips to cut off the portion of the tape extending beyondthe left end of the fence.Place the indicatoron the stopblock, align the cursorwith the tape's4" line, and attach the indicatorto the block with a screw.

sEcloN vtEW @ rerucE

1/2"gloove %0" deep (to fit measuring rule)


L\I _t T lttzu" %"Tf-j\#"


li ,

Now, let's go sledding

If a workpiece fits between the fence and the front rail, you can cut it on your crosscut sled,as shownin Photo C. Use the stop block to cut multiple pieces to the same length,providedthatlengthfalls within the stopblock'srange. Remove the stopblockwhencutting piecesthat extend beyond that range. When you install a blade of a different thickness or with a different tooth set than the one used to calibrate your stopblock, check the setting with a rule, and adjustthe cursor.lF


t/s" 76filgl--/y' /e" deep -

I t I u/r"grooue I | | s/o" deep

1 | V,r;.-

| \'

Scorea line on the acrylicwith a knife, and color it with a permanent marker.


jigs For the onpages 5-13, weused these Sources: Stainless steel rule no. 06K20.06, each; $1.95 plastic four-arm knob no. 00M55.30, each. Lee $1.90 Call Valley at800-871-8158, orgotoleevalley.com. (bolt Hold-down no.145831, and knob); self$4.99 adhesive rule, no.08Y42, Woodcraft Call at $9.99. 800-225-1153, orgotowoodcraft.com.





Witlrthis *ne jig, ysili*#n build thr** psputar styles of for your donr pffin:els next *abinet project.

aisedpanelshave long been a sign of fine craftsnranship-perhaps beciluse they appear difficult to make. But as yoLr'llsee here, that rreed not be the case. On puge 14, we'll this show yoLr:.rsimple method for Lrsing jig to cut panelswith a tablesarw. Combine scrap material with a f'ew harclwareitems and yor.r'llhave a jig destined lbr a lif'etime of service. See puge 11. lbr a hardware soLlrcefor the knobs.

Start with the basics

Cr,rt two pieces of iA" MDF to the in the Materials List din-rensions to nrake the upright (A) and base (B). S c r o l l s a w o r b a n d s a wt h e l % " r a d i i o t t outsidethe the two cornel'sof (B). cuttin-u line. Then sanct l o the line.

Using yor.rr dado blade. cut two '/-r" dadoes /-r"deep in the top of the base. whereshownon Drawing 1. to yoLlr Afteradding an auxiliary f-ence saw tablesaw rip f-ence.cut it rabbet %" wide and t/t" deep along the bottom ed-qe of the upright (A). where shown on Drawing 1. Next. drill %r," l'rolesin the upri-eht (A) and at the ends of the slot locathe sidesof the tions in the base.Lay or.rt to shapewith a slots, and scrollsaw ther.r-t # 1 2 b l a d e .C u t t w o b r a c e s( C ) . a s d i m e n s i o n e do r r D r a w i n g 2 . Drill y'::" pilot holes, and then glue and screw the ji-e together using #8xlth" brass screws. where shown. T i p : U s e b r a s ss c l e w s u r t y t i t l e y o u r j i - e ' s screw holes are close to the saw blade.



Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008

Now, add the extras

Cut the guide strip (D) ts fit your I miter-gauge slot in depth and width. Trim the pieceto 28" long, and drill countersunk t/+"holes centeredon the strip 3" from each end. Attach the guide strip to the baseusing the hardware shown. QCut the upright stops (E) to size, and &drlll the hole and counterbore hole, where shown on Drawing 2. Securethe stopsto the ends of upright (A). {

{tCut the clamping bar (F) to size, and tJdrill %0" holes, where shown. Lay out and shapethe clamping bar curve, as shown on Drawing 1, using a bandsaw. Sandsmooth. ;l Next, attach the clamping bar to '?the jig using the hardware shown. Tip: If you havetrouble finding extra-long machine screws, cut two pieces of allthread. Then secure the four-arm knobs to the screwsusing 5-minute epoxy.

fRemove the hardware and the clamptJing bar and guide strip, and sand all parts to 150 grit. Now apply two coats of finish, sanding between coats with 180grit abrasive. a piece of adhesive-backed fiCut Yl2}-grit sandpaper,and apply it to the jig face, as shown on Drawing 1. Then, reassemble the jig. lF



s/q" rabbel V+" deep



1Y4tr /+-2Ox4Y2'F.H. machinescrew Curveon this edge ' 1Va"

#8 x 1tl2"brass F.H. wood screw




/q" dado t/a" deep

4 x 24"aonesivbt-r=--backed 120-grit


*: ffi
/q-2Oknite thread insert
Vq" tabbel't/a" deep

/a" holes,countersunk on bottom face

upright B base C braces D guide strip

/q" 11Y2" 28" {c'
Va" /e"


1 2

r/c-2O x 2" F.H. machinescrew

7Y2" 111h" MDF

{to Vl' 28" 8u

E upright stops
F clamping bar




tilaterlalakey: MDF-m edium-de nsityfibe rboard, M-maple. Sppfbo: #8x1Y2",#8x1" brass flathead wood screws; (21,V+20x4t/t (2); l+-20x2" flathead machine screws (4); Vq-20low-arm (81; knobs /+"flatwashers llzx%| compression (2);V+20 springs (2); knife thread inserts 4"adhesive-backed 120-grit sandpaper. woodmagazine.com

LocatepreviousWOOD magazine projectarticlesat wood m a gazine.com /i ndex


How to Sut

Panels Rai$ed Cu$tom

Cut raisedpanels with a tablesaw
For the woodworker who doesn'thave a router table or the budget for expensive raised-panel bits, cutting raised panels on the tablesawis an effective alternative. This methoddoeshaveonedrawback: You'll needto investtime andelbowgrease the panelbevels. into finish-sanding To solve the challenge of supporting panelssafelywhile cutting bevels,build jig shownon page 12. the panel-cutting


Preparethe panels
Before cutting the door panels to size, the grain matchthe wood tonesand arrange patternsfor best appearance. For example, centerthe cathedral(inverseV) patternon panels. When gluing narrow single-board up wider panels,use piecescut from the grain andcolor. sameboardfor consistent Next, decide which style of panel you want. The drawing at right showsthree popular styles:a plain-bevelpanel, one that'sflush with the frame (calleda backcut panel), or a proud panel (with the panel raised abovethe frame). All will give panelsa custom look. Glue up the stockneeded to make your panelblanks. Then,cut your panelsto finishedsize. Note: To minimize wood movement,we suggestusing boards no wider than 5" when gluing up your panels.
Te"rabbet t/+"deep Shoulder 1vq' )

s/a" raisedpanels

PROS . contemporary look . easy-to-sand bevels . no paneldetailto catch the eye

PROS . shoulder detail catchesthe eye . bevelsare a bit more to sand difficult

PROS . can decorateshoulder with profilerouterbits . bevelsare a bit more difficultto sand




Mark the bevels

Looking at the endof the panelblank,lay out the desired bevelusinga slidingbevel Also, if your panelneeds a tongue square. and rabbetlay them out, at this time. (the To cut a raisedpanelwith shoulders squarelip on the face of the panel),first adjust the tablesaw's fence 1/+" from the blade.Cut a saw kerf t/e"deep(34o"deep from all if making proud panels)and I3/q" four edgesand ends of the panel'sface, as shownin Drawing 3. This kerf will location. determine the shoulder The following set-up procedure assumes that your miter-gaugeslot aligns parallel with your sawblade.If not, make that adjustment. With a steelrule, measure the distance from the saw blade to the jig's upright. Move the jig sideto sideas neededso the distancebetweenthe saw blade and the jig is the sameas the panel'stongue(and When the uprightis the rabbet) thickness. correct distancefrom the blade,and parallel to the blade,tighten down the knobs in the guide strip. Now, adjust the blade bevel,asshownin the photooppositetop. Then cut the bevels on the panel edges. Move through the blade at a consistent speed, slowingdown only if the sawstrains. Note: If your saw bogs down in the cut, you may need to use a thin-kerf blade or passes. deeper mal<e the cut in successively

Sand the panel bevels

Remove any saw marks with 100-grit sandpaperand a hardwood block. Then with 150-and220finish-sand the bevels grit sandpaper. Take care when sanding not to removethe ridge at the intersection of the bevels.Stain the panelsbeforeyou the door.i assemble
Written by Pat Lowry lllustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson

Set up the jig for smooth, accuratecuts

For yourjig to functionwell, it must slide parallelto the saw bladewith its upright With at a right angleto the saw'stabletop. eitherbladeor upright out of alignment, scoringand burning will occur. 14

Let's cut a raised panel

Clamp your panel into the jig, exterior Panels canbe faceout, andcut the bevels. throughthe saw.First, cut in four passes chip-out. cut across the endgrain to reduce

Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008


E pnruelKERFS

To adiust the blade to match your bevel, place the panel into the jig with the exterior face out. To adjust the angle and height of the saw blade,sight down the blade,and align it with the layout marks, as shown above. Clamp a test piece into the jig and run it through. Readjustthe settings until the angle and bevel thickness are accurate.

Add detail to your raised panels

After raisingthe panelon yourtablesaw, use a 7a" round-nose bit in yourrouter tableto detailthe square shoulder on the face of the panel.Set the bit 1%"from the fence,as shown below. Then rout the detail,startingwith the end grainfirst,followed by the edgegrain. f W rcbbet,/t dery

A 7a"round-nose bit creates a distinct panel.




Variations on a Theme
of Experimentwith differentcombinations pins, forframes,keys,and decorative species or try some of the looksshownbelow. Potentialkey combinationsinclude: I Walnutand mahogany keyson mahogany

Dress up miteredpicture frames with face keys, and you'llopen up a world of creativepossibilities.
nce you masterthe precisionneededto make tight miter joints, you're ready to explorewaysto embellishthem with face keys of contrasting frame. of a standard appearance woods that break up the predictable This sophisticatedlook is simple to create.For starters,you can make both the key stock and cornerrabbetson the tablesawwhereyou cut the jig that steadiesa mitered frame at the correct miters. For an easy-to-make angle for cutting corner rabbetson both faces, see the drawing below. The stockcut sampleframe corners,shownat right, usereadily available3/q"-thick 2" wide.

2 Walnutkeysand cherrypinson cherry

cherrypinson cherry



r I

l' f-4 Cherrykeysand maplepinson maple

{ tr

Placelowerscrewsabovemaximum heightof tablesawblade. #8x2" brass F.H.wood screw

45" suppoft bevels

Mahogany keys on maple

Assemble the corner rabbeting jig so the support bevels and the bottom edge of the backing rest flat on your tablesaw. Place the lower pair of screws at least !Vz" above the lower edge of the backing and base to avoid accidental contact with the tablesaw blade.


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Let's make a facekeyed miter joint

In preparation,build a corner rabbeting jig using 3/qxl" supports and a piece of MDF overlay plywood, t/q" Baltic birch plywood, or MDF. You'll also need assembled frames plus scrapwood frame cornersfor practice. To make key stock that works with the 2"-wideframepartsshown,resawa pieceof /+" stockthat's4W'wideby roughly8" long to createtwo 2"-wide piecesof key stock. The blank can be a singlepieceof wood or an edge-glued combination of woods.Raise your saw blade to 2" and set your fenceto

cut a slot the distancefrom the face of the blank slightly thicker than your saw kerf will cut in your frames.Usea featherboard and pushstickfor added control. Flip the piece end for end and cut a secondslot, as shownin Photo A, leavinga Vz"bridge in the middle to connectthe key stock to the blank. Then, by hand or on a bandsaw, cut the key stockfree from the blank.

workpiececorner,as shownoppositetop. By cutting the rabbet on the frame face pressed tight againstthe jig, you'll minimize tear-out.For keys on both sidesof the frame, rotatethe workpieceand make a second cut.

Attach the keys

If necessary after sawing the keys,plane them to just thicker than the depthof your rabbet. Glue and clamp the key stock to the corners on the front, back, or both facesof thq.frame, as shownin Photo B. Bandsawthe excess key stockfrom the edgesof the frame, as shownin Photo C. Flush-sand the edges and facesof the keys with the edgesand facesof the frame.

Gut the corner rabbets

Set your tablesawblade height to 2" for cornerson 2"-widestock.Make test cuts in scrapmiters to fine-tune your cutting depth and position. Secure the mitered frame in the jig, and set the fence so the blade will cut a kerf-deeprabbetinto the

To cut the key stock, leave a bridge about Vz"wide between the saw kerfs. Later, you can remove the bridge with a bandsaw or handsaw.

Before gluing and clamping, plane the face keys to about t/az" thicker than the depth of the key rabbets in the frame stock. Then, glue and clamp.

To saw keys flush with the frame, remove excess key stock with a bandsaw. Then, sand the face and edges flush using a random-orbit sander.

How to further decoratethis joint

Face keys alone offer you dozens of wood combinations, but your imagination needn'tstop there.Adding dowelsor plugsto the keys,as shownat right, gives them evenmore character. Begin by marking the locationsof the plugson the keys,as shownin Photo D. We placedthese:/s" plugsVz" fromthe long edgeof the key, spacingthem 1" apartand equal distances from the shorteredgesof the keys. For your plugs, use either the frame wood speciesor introduce a third species to thejoints. Theseplugsextendthroughthe key and into the frame without emergingthrough the faceon the other side.Orient the grain of theplugswith thatof thekeysto allow for

wood movement. Glue and seatthe plugs, leaving about %" abovethe surface.Remove the excess with a flush-cuttins saw.

as shownin Photo E. Finish by sanding the plugs flush with the frame'sface. t
Writtenby Bob Wilson

Space the plugs an equal distance from the miter joint line. Plug locations can be adjusted to suit your key and frame sizes.

When using a flush-cutting saw to remove plug stock above the key, cut parallel to the direction of the key grain.



SplineJig Gutting
A slighttilt of a saw blade givesyourcornersplines a wholenewlook.




/* L/'t''\
#8 x 2" F.H.wood screws

shank hole,countersunk 7se" on back face 45'bevels

I t doesn'ttake much work to put a new ! spinon traditionalsplinedmiterjoints. atanangle,aswe I Justinstall thesplines letI did above on a maple-and-walnut ter tray, and you get eye-catchingresults. jig First, makethe simplespline-cutting for your tablesaw shown above. Then, mark three evenly spacedspline locations on a piece of scrap the samewidth as the tray side. Install a blade in your tablesaw that producesthe flattestpossiblekerf bottom. (We used an outsideblade from our dado set.)Tilt the blade to 15o,and raise it so it extendsabout halfway into the mitered corner. Set your jig against the tablesaw rip fence, place your marked scrap in the jig, and adjustthe fence to cut a test slot. Now make the other slots,readjustingthe fence betweencuts. When you're satisfied with the design, place clear packing tape around the workpiece corners to reduce chip-out. Hold the workpiece firmly in the jig, and cut as shown in Photo A. Cut the top slot in each corner, adjust the fence, cut all four middle slots, adjust again, and cut the bottom slots. Removethe tape. 18

Rip splinestockfrom theedgeof a board of contrastingstock,asshownin Photo B. Match its thicknessto the kerf-usually %". Then, cut individual splinesfrom the strips, making them slightly longer than yellow glueon thesplines, the slots.Spread slip them into place, and let the glue dry. Trim them off at the surfacewith a flush-

cutting saw or use a dovetail saw followed by a chisel.Sandflush. By varying the number and placement of the corner splines, you can come up with other designs.You might try different sawblade angles,too. al
Photographs:Hetherington Photography Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson lllustration:

Double-check the orientation of your workpiece before cutting. Here we're holding the bottom of the tray to the left, so the slots will point downward.

To cut splinestock,usethe thin-strip rippingjig (seethe how-todetails,beginning on page5) to cut splinestock. cuts. the fencebetween Reposition

Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers

vrEW I exeloDED

Pat Warner's

Two-Part Dado Jig

#8 x 1Y4'F.H.wood screw

We introducethis chapterwith jigs from three router experts. Readon to appreciate why they're sold on these shop helpers.

7/aq" pilol hole t/2" deep

I n addition to writing four router I books, Pat Warner has designedspeI cialty router bits. Additions include I inexpenseivedisposable single-flute mortising bits and pattern bits (straight bits with shankbearings). 'Accuracy in routing requiresattentionto Pat detail-and not much sophistication," notes.This Californian's simplejig helps match dado width to shelf thickness. Using Pat'stwo-part jig, we set up to cut a dadoin lesstime than it takesto equip a tablesawwith a dado set.

Why you need this jig

c 6 o E oo

How to build Pat'sjig

You'll need to assembletwo of the jigs shown above. (We cut two pairs of jigs, one from t/+"-thick plywood and another usingmedium-density fiberboard(MDF). If you plan to make dadoes10" or longer, build additionalpairs with the top pieces at least 12" long or more.

6 o o (L

Put the two-part jig to use

Before you begin cutting dadoes,you'll need a sample of the stock that will

ultimately be placed in the dado. Here's one key to a snugdado: Go through each sandingstepyou plan to follow until your piecereaches its finishedthickness. sample For this example,we're cutting a dado in the side of a cabinet for a shelf. Position the two-part jig where you plan to cut the dado; then snug the sandedshelf scrapbetweenthe parts, as shown in the photo opposite top. Next, clamp both parts firmly in place at the edgesaway from the gap to keep the clampsfrom interfering with the router. After removing the sample (savethis piece for future reference),setyour router cutting depthequalto the thicknessof the jig parts plus the depth of cut you want. Then rout a dado using a pattern-cutting bit (also sold as a shank-bearing guided trimmer). The bearing of this bit rides along the edge of the jig parts and producesa crisp, squaredado, as shown in the drawing opposite far top. "Be surethe cutter isn't larger than the bearing,"Pat cautions,"or elseyou'll tear up the edgesof your jig parts." Q


Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers


jig Two-part

Workpiece Firstpass Secondpass

vlEW l!onoo JtcstDE KIR'F Fr+,n ;*q;' #,t$sxag' '**aas " #Eafl
To avoi d teari ng out the edge of your w orkpi eceas you fi ni s h your cut , as show n bel ow , cl ampa sacr if icialpiece of scrapwoodto the edge of your work. H ereareothertacti csP atr ecom m ends to reducetear-out: . Good material. Routing straight-grained, properl y seasoned har dwood r educes tear-out. grainpatterns, Interesting includingbird's-eye andquilted maple, have visual appeal, butcreate morerouting challenges. . Well-prepared possible, stock.Wherever el i mi nate cups and bows in your st ock beforeyou get to the routing steps. . Sharpen cutters. Well-honed bits producel esstear-out. . Li ght cuts. l f you cut deepert han 7e" w i th one pass,you' reapt t o int r oduce tear-out to yourproject; 7e"is ideal. . Feed rate.You'll worsen tear-out witha fastfeed rate. . Climb-cutting. Youcan reduce tear-out witha climbcut (cutting withthe rotation of the bi t i nsteadof againstit ) . Light cuts and addedsafetyprocedures are a must.See the noteson page24. . C ut end grai nfi rst. B ec ause endgr ain is moreapt to tear out, rout it first.Then rout edgegrainandcleanup anytear-out.

A f t e r l o c a t i n gt h e d a d o p o s i t i o n ,p l a c e a p i e c e o f f i n i s h - s a n d e d scrapbetween t h e j i g ' s t w o p a r t s .T h e n c l a m p t h e p a r t s t o t h e w o r k p i e c e .


I:{-* I


lf the dado is too snug (sometimes c a u s e db y a p a t t e r n - c u t t i n g bit that's s m a l l e rt h a n t h e b e a r i n g ) s , h i m o u t t h e s h e l f s c r a p w i t h a s h e e to r t w o o f p a p e r ,a d j u s t t h e j i g p a r t s ,a n d r o u t a g a i n .


Patrick Spielmanns

Multi-Hole Doweling Jig

Patrick was one of most North Americans prolific woodworking authors,producing severalbooks on routers and router tips. This jig was one of his favorites.

Patrick Spielman's doweling jig makes quick work of doweling tasks, including the face frame joinery (end to edge grainl above. The 7a"guide-bushing hole is compatible with and 7a"dowel pins. The positioning block ensures quick, accurate alignment of T4",s/16", the stock. lllustrations, opposite,show routing dowel-pin holes in the railand stile.

atrick Spielman of Fish Creek, Wisconsin, authored more than 75 woodworking books. His original Router Handbook sold more than a million copies, and his revised New Router Handbook remains one of Sterling Publishing's best-selling titles. Before he died in 2005, Patrick sharedhis popular multi-hole doweling jig

removablestopwill satile.The adjustable, help you precisely position face stock.

Why you need this jig

In addition to positioning dowelsfor most doweling joints (we found the jig particularly useful for face-framejoinery), this is pins. a greatjig for aligning.shelf-support "The dowel joint makes a lot of sense to me," Patrick said.Dowels provide extra mechanical strength when joining end to edge grain. Plus, they're quicker to make than hand-cut dovetails. "The dowel joint is pptty much foolpoof, and with this jig, you can take the joint further and have the dowels come through the other side." The 2" counterbored slots in the sh"-thickplasticjig make Patrick'sjig ver-

Follow Drawing 1 and 1a, opposite top, to build the jig. Lay out and drill the 5/s" holes as accuratelyaspossiblein the plastic. (We used a drill pressfor this step.) For a source for the knob on this project, seeleevalley.com.

How to build Patrickns iig

With a guide bushing in your router, dowel holesalwaysline up regardless of how accurately you spacedthe /s" holes for your doweling jig. For this type of plunge routing, use upcut spiral bits like the one shown at left. To position the jig and router dowel to makeidentically spaced holes in face frame stiles and . rails, see the two illustrations opposite.* Upcutspiralrouterbit

Put the iig to use


Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers

vrEW I exeloDED
7a"counterbored slot s/0"deep with a 't/q" slol centeredinside

llslor DETATL
7a"counterbored slot /10" deep with a t/a"slot centeredinside


Te" hole

e/a"acrylic 1" counterbore e/+" deep with a t/q"hole centeredinside

t/q" T-nul


)4 1,/""

Two-pleceguide bushings easily attach to your router's base.

7+"counterbore t/a"deep with a t/q"hole

centered inside _ab (/'@

1/q"f -nut

/a" slot 1" long

/+" SAE washer



Originallydesigned for doweling,this jig also helps you make evenly spaced holes for shelf pins. To avoid goofs, tape over hofes you won't use, as shown above. (Spacing of 1Vc-2"between holes works well in most applications.)

The plastic world

With more than 35 yearsof routerexperience, Patrickdeplastic. signedmanyjigs incorporating We builthis jig from s/e" polycarbonate becauseit's readilyavailable at hardware stores and home centers. However,Patrick preterredt/2" polycarbonate, a thickness that'stougher to find. "lf you can find 1/2" plastic,"Patricksaid, "you havefewer

problems withguidebushings beingtoo longfor the bits.Plus, plastic thicker makesit easierto routadjustable slots." "l avoidacrylicplasticbecause it's brittle," Patrick added. "l'vehadfewerproblems plastic withpolycarbonate cracking or breaking arounda holeor nearthe edge." We found our local polycarbonate supplierunder"plastics"in the phonedirectory.



Reedns 2 Carol

I taught router and woodworking I technique for more than 20 years. This Phoenix-area resident also her talents at woodworking demonstrates and home and garden shows. Her first book, Router Joinery Workshop, was published in 2003.

3I | ;fi #J,',,:i:;: 3.',T'l:: ffi

Put the pushsticks to use

When paired with a featherboard, Carol's narrow-stockpushstick helps you control small pieces,as shownin Photo A. The the vertical pushstick,Photo B, supports endsof tall pieces. "I usethis handledesign at my tablesaw After you andjointer, too," Carol advises. chew up the soleand heel,sendit through the jointer and attachnew pieces. 'And don't think of just '1A"-thick material. I have safely routed with and a little heel."l 7s"pushsticks
Written by Carl Voss lllustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson

With the aid of a feather board, Garol Reed's pushstick for narrow stock keeps workpieces flat against the router table.

Why you need these iigs

"I like to call these pushsticks my 'success " Carol says."The real reason devices', is that,not only will you to usepushsticks be safer,you'll reduceburn marks and errors.Overall,you'll enjoymore success."

How to build Carol'sjigs

Follow Drawings 1, 2, and 3 to cut the piecesfor Carol'stwo routertable accessories.Createa templateof the handledesign, Carol says,and then "make an armload of thesedarn things.That way, you won't feel bad whenyou chewup oneof yourjigs." We made our handles from easily worked and inexpensive MDF. To assemble the vertical pushstickused for routing the ends of long stock, glue and -clampthe baseto the MDF upright piece. After applying glue to the handle,rub it acrossthe upright and clamp it in place. Glue on the heel last. To makethe pushstick for narrow stock, glue the base to the handle and clamp until dry. For safety,do not usemetal fastenersto hold the piecestogether.

Carol's vertical pushstick, with a replaceable t/+"plywood heel, helps you press tall pieces firmly againstthe router table fence. t/a"round-overs




I-t\+_ -lr,U 1/2"





I ____----l

l ss>=-_._=
l ijill



':ll I il?"

30" bevelon handle I |


PUSHSTTcK @ vemcAL-srocK PUSHSTTcK ll runnnow-srocK

to cut wood narrower than the handheldrouterbase. lf you introduce wood to the backsideof a cutterat a routertable, you essentially And dropyourstockontoa moving sidewalk. if you'retryingto controla smallpiece,wherewill your fingersgo? Rightintothe bit." "For safety, I encourageall my studentsto draw big bit rotationarrowswith a Sharpiemarkeron their routerbases The arrowsprovidea constantand readilyvisand motors." the bit is turning. iblereminder of whichdirection
Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2008

Glimb-cut safely
with to approach climb-cutting Caroladviseswoodworkers this methodof clockwise cutting addedcaution.(Although with a handheldrouterproducesless splintering than the the routertends to traditional counter-clockwise direction, you pull itselfaway from the operator.) With climb-cutting, makingonly a can removeburnmarksor cleanup tear-out, plSS with a handheldrouter. %+" "But I don'tadvocate at a routertable," any climb-cutting Caroladds."Think of it thisway:A router tablewas designed


p nnruolE FULL-stzE PATTERN



Router Trammel
Gut perfect circles from 15"to 48" in with this diameter accessory. shop-made
Build your own trammel
Cut a piece of Vz"Baltic birch plyI wood to 6x9t/+"for the extendedbase (A). Cut a centered /a" groove t/q" deep alongoneend,whereshownon Drawings 1 router with a and4. Use a table-mounted with azero-clearslot cutter or a tablesaw anceinsert to cut the groove. f)Spray-adhere the full-size base patGtern onto the blank, aligning the /s" groove with the groove location marked on the pattern.Bandsawand sandthe extendedbase(A) to shape. flRemove thebaseplate from yourrouter, 9and position the plate on the paperpattern adheredto the extendedbase.Align lineson holes with thecentering thebaseplate centerpoints, Mark thescrew-hole thepattern. as shownin Photo A. Tracethe router-bit base. hole onto the extended clearance and countersink the marked /lDrill ttholes for attachinsthe extended base {

Say goodbye to rough and irregular edges the next time you cut a circle or ring. And, using the trammel's extended base for added stability (rightl, you can detail an edge or rabbet the back of a cabinet without fear of the router tipping.

plrnnunaEL ARM
t/2" hole s/ro"dggp, z on bottom face --l s/ro"hole 11/z'7

/e" groove't/q" deeP

/2" recess 17t/2" long s/re"deep, centered

t/e"round-overon bottom edge,excepton groovedend


s/ro" hole--l 1t/'" 1)


13/. ^tl




to the router. Then drill or scrollsaw the router-bit clearance hole. bottom fiRout a %" round-over along the dedse of the extended base. where shown. Note:-Do not round over the end of the base with the groove.

t/q-20lapered knob long 3zle"
t/q" tlal washer

t/e"groove 't/q" deep, centered

of @ Location
Router-bit hole clearance

t/q-20 x 11h' F.H machinescrew




To markthe base hole centerpoints,transfer the screw-holelocationsfrom your router baseplate onto the extended base, positioning them over the centering lines.

From r/2"Balttc birch plywood, cut a il piece to 3x20" for the trammel arm (B). Cut a centered %" groove t/+" deep along one end of the arm, where shown on Drawing 2. f)On the top face of the arm, mark the 4centerpoints, and drill a pair of s/ta" holes through the arm, where dimensionedon Drawing 2. Connectthe hole perimeters for the slot (to be cut later) and pencil. with a straightedge bottom the On face of the trammel arm tl bit to drill a vz"hole tJ(B), usea Forstner sAa"deep, whereshownon Drawing 2. ATo form the trammel-arm recess, Clinstall at/2" straight bit into your tablemounted router. Raise the bit sAo"above the surfaceof the table.Positionthe fence so the bit centersover the t/2"hole drilled in the previousstep.Mark start and stop lines I t/2"from the centerof the reference straightbit on the router fence. fiBring the trammelarm (B) up to the left dstart line on the routerfence,and slowly lower it onto the bit. as shownin Photo B. {

Form the trammel arm


Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008

-.- 5/te-18 three-armknob

5/ro"flat --- i washer \s


pexeloDED vrEW



l+-20 tapered knob long 3zla" ARM TRAMMEL


#8 x s/e" F.H. wood screw \ shank hole, 7se" countersunk z/oa" pilot hole Ta"deep
t/a" hole

s/'ra" llal washer groundto fit 1

t/2" feCeSS


sAa"tlal washer

s/ro" hexnut to --4

fit /2" ICSS

20" s/ro" slot t/e"round-overon bottom edge, excepton groovedend 1/a" grooves' 1/4" deep,centered l/q"hole, countersunk on bottomface /s" round-over BASE EXTENDED


knob Three-arm


s/ro" hexheadbolt 2" longwith head hacksawedoff


Holes for mounting @ to yourrouter, countersunk on bottom side

recess until the Carefully rout a s/rc"-deep the right stop line on trailing end reaches the fence.Lift the trammel arm off the bit. fiScrollsaw the %0"-wide slot previLfously marked on the top face of the trammel arm (B). Rout a %" round-over along lhe bottom edges of the trammel arm excepr on the grooved end, where indicatedon Drawing 2.

5/ro" hexnut


12"recess 5/6"deep

Join the extended base to the trammel arm

From %" hardboard, cut the spline I tCl to size. Glue the spline into the groovedend of the trammel arm. f)Cut the connectorplate (D) to size &from V4" hardboard. Drill the two countersunk mountingholesand glue and screwthe connectorplate to the trammel {

arm (B), where shown on Drawing 3. Slidethe extended base(A) overthe spline (C) in the trammel arm. Drill and counhole through the baseand tersink the Vq" connector plate for the knob machine screw. where indicated on the extended pattern. base This ensures holealignment and a tight fit betweenthe two pieces.

Add the centerpoint adjustment plale

Cut the guidebars(E) and (F) to size. I Drill the holesshownon Drawing 3. Screwthe three piecestogether. l) Grind opposite edgesoff a2" long s7ru" Atlat washerso it fits into the t/2"-wide trammel-arm recess.Hacksaw the head off a sAe" hexheadbolt, where shown on Drawing 3a. Thread a s/re"hexnut onto the bolt. Assemblethe adjustmentplate to the trammel arm (B) in the configuration shownon Drawing 3b. {

adjustmentplate with attachedpivot pin until the distancefrom the inside cutting edge of the straight bit to the center of the pivot pin equals the desired radius of the circle. Now, drop the pivot pin into the centered hole and begin routing in a counterclockwise direction, as shownoppositetop. For a sourcefor the knobs on this and other projects,seeleevalley.com. I
Projectdesign:Jeff Mertz lllustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson

extended base

1/2" 6"


Ply Ply HB1 HB1

1 1

trammelarm spline D
E guidebars


plate 1/+" 3" connector

1/2" 1/z' 2u

Puttingthe trammelto work

Using trammel pointsor a largecompass, mark the centerpointand requiredradius on your workpiece. Cut the workpiece about %" oversize with a handheldjigsaw.This leaveslessmaterial to rout and improves the quality of the cut. At the previouslymarkedcenterpoint drill a5/ro" hole 3/s"deep. Position the centerpoint,


%" 2" idjulifr-diiidute


HB 1.


%"straight straight bit %" bit

Align the end of the trammel arm (B) with the start line on the router fence and carefully lower it onto the straight bit. Rout the recess until the trailing end reachesthe stop line. woodmagazine.com

HB-hardboard. Materials key:Ply-plywood, wood Spray adhesive, #8x7e" flathead screws Supplies: (2), (4),1h-20x1Vr" #8xt/2" flathead wood flathead screws t/a" t/a-20 flatwasher, tapered knob, machine screw, (2), with nut, flatwashers %0" hexhead bolt2"long %0" three-arm knob. %o-18 t/z' router Forstner Bits:/s"round-over, %"straight bits; bit.




Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers


FlushTrimming Fence
Usethis simpleroutertable setup to put a finishededge on plywoodpanels.
hile buildinga child'sdresser, ing, and clamp the fencedown. Hold the lEsrDEsEcfloNvtEW projectbuilderChuckHedlund edgedplywood firmly againstthe fence had to do a lot of flush as you make each pass,and the edging trimming on the solid-wood comesout perfectlyflush everytime. ? edgingthat dresses up the plywood panWrittenby David Stone els. He neededa foolproof way to get Project d e s i g n :G h u c k H e d l u n d the job done. A handheldrouter with a lllustrations : o x a n n eL e M o i n e : L o r n a J o h n s o n R flush-trimbit would work, but it's easyto accidentally tip the routerand gougethe edging and plywood. Chuck solved the problem with the router-table-mounted IexeloDED vtEW fenceshownin the photo,aboveright. Made of 3/+"plywood, the fence sits perpendicular to the table, as shown in Drawings 1 and 1a.The loweredgeof the fenceis mountedl" above the router-table surface, so it accommodates edgingup to /+" thick. Note: All stockis To build the project, cut its identi3/+" plywood cally sizedfenceand baseto 173/+" wide. 11s/q'i Measure the top of your routertableto determinethe length.Cut matchingnotches ji Inside width in the baseand fence,positioned to align j i matcheslong leg with the bit hole in your table.Two tridrace. F i i of trianqular I il t angular braceshold the base and fence together. The cleatsat eachend helpposition the assembly on your routertable. ?'/"'{ Chuck also added a supportpanel to 4l the bracesthat stiffensthe entire assembly. A hole cut into the supportaccepts a shop-vacuum hoseto collectchips. Widthof To usethe fence,install a flush-trimbit routertable # 8 x 1 1 / z 'F . H . 1 x 1" notches, in your table-mounted router.Align the wood screws centered fenceface flush with the bit's pilot bear-


3/a x 11/z x 16" CLEAT

sits flushwith front edge of base.



Plunge-Routing Basics
Learn the essentials,and then put your knowhow into practice with the jigs on pages 32-34.
lunge routersdate back to 1949, when they were first introduced in Germany by Elu, a company now owned by Black & Decker. It wasn'tuntil the early-S0s, though,that plunge routersbecamewidely available in North America.Today,manufacturers offer more modelsof plungeroutersthan their fixed-base brethren.

What does a plunqe router have going for it?Its forte is making cuts on the interior surface(orfield) of a workpiecefor such tasksas mortising,stopped dadoes, inlay, and sign-routing. To makefield cutswith you needto tilt the a fixed-base machine spinningbit into and out of the cut, a tricky and sometimes dicey maneuver.

With a plungerouter,the motor-and-bit mechanismslides up and down on two postsattached spring-loaded to the base. First, you presetthe cutting depth, then releasea lock that raisesthe motor and bit to a non-cuttingheight. Positionthe router over the cut, switch on the motor, and pushit straightdown until it contacts a depth-stop. Lock the plunge,make the cut, release the lock, and the motor and bit againspringup. You canevenreadjust the depth without turning off the router, which you'll find useful for making multiplepasses on deepcuts.


Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2008

.Enatorny of a Plunge Router

Althoughthey can performmanyof the sameduties,ptungerouterslook distincily different than fixed-base routers. Beyond the motor, collet, and handlesparts common to both styles-a plunge router also has the following:

PLUNGE TOCK Trippinga lever,or squeezing or twistinga handle,locksthe bit'sdepthafterit has penetrated the work-piece. Releaseing the lock lifts the bit at the end of the cut.

MrcRo-ADJUST Thisfeature fine-tunes thecutting depth withmicrometer accuracy.

Plunqe routers have their ups and downs

Plungeroutersmake short work of some tricky cuts, but don't toss out your fixedbasedrouterjust yet. Here'swhy: . A plunge router is safer than a fixedbase model becauseits bit protrudes only when cutting. . Plunge routers typically offer more power-up to 15 amps-and most have variable-speedcontrol, which fixedbasemachinesgenerallydo not. These are major considerations if you plan to table-mountyour router and work with large bits, suchas panel-raisers. . For a table-mountedrouter, the plunge router's depth-adjustment knobs control the bit-height changes more precisely. To take advantageof this feature, you may needto extendyour router'sheightadjustmentknob. Many manufacturers include knob extensions with their plungerouters,or you can buy an extensionfor $20 or so. . Plunge routers cost and weigh more than fixed-baseroutersand offer no advantageon edge cuts. If you anticipate making mostly edge cuts, you may be better off purchasinga lighter and less expensive fixed-basetool. . Not all plunge routers work well suspended upside down under a router table. Falling sawdust can gum up unshieldedplunge-posts, which you'll needto cleanperiodically. . When mounted in a table, adjusting the bit depth of some models is an. awkward, two-handedoperation.With others,removingthe plungemechanism springs,which makesit easierto raise a table-mounted router,requiresdismantling the machine's motor housing-a procedurewe don't recommend.

Plunge pros:

PIJUNGE RODS A pairof springloadedsteel rods attachedto the subbaseguide the motor up and down, perfectly perpendicular to the base.

Plunge cons:


TURRET STOPS For a projectthat requires progressive deepercuts, such as deep mortises, you can presetthe steps on a turret.Rotatingthe turret enablesyou to quicklystep from one depth to the next.

DEPTH ADIUSTMENT ROD AND SCALE: Not all plungeroutersoffera depth-of-cut scale, but all have an adjustablerod that helps you halt the plungeat a precisepresetdepth. With most plungerouters,yotJ"zero"the tool by lockingit at the work surface.Then you set an adjustable cursorto "0" on the scale.The scale tells you the depth of the dado, mortise, or othercut you'llbe making.



Four qreat wavs right in to plu-nge

To put a plungerouterthroughits paces, you'll need the correct bit for the job at hand (manufacturersoffer hundreds for

different shapesand sizes of cuts), and temsome type of guide (straightedge, plate, or jig). In many casesyou'll also which fit into your needguide bushings, to follow the guide. router'sbaseplate,

You can spend good money for acjigs, but you can constructyour cessory own for next to nothing.So we askedour talented staff to come up with jigs for tasks. four popularplunge-routing

Mortising Jig,awnsnu
he trick to cutting mortisesin tapositionthe ble legsis to precisely mortise on each leg and to make each mortise exactly the same length.Build the mortisingjig, as shown in the drawingat right, and you'll be able mortises time to cut identical Vz"-wrde aftertime. To set up a cut, mark the l,engthand centerlineof the mortise on your workpiece. Clamp the workpieceto the jig's in the slot baseso the mortiseis centered on the sliding top plate. Lock the plate into placewith the wing nuts.The threaded rod acts as a stop,and allows you to adjust the length of the mortise-from th."to 2t/+".Once you've locked in these you can quickly transferthe jig settings, from one workpieceto the next. Now, fit your router with a /+" guide bushingand a /:" straightor spiral-flute cuts,use an up-cut bit. (For the cleanest spiral for solid wood; a down-cut spiral Insert the with plywood and veneers.) guidebushingin thejig's slot,turn on the power,plunge,lock, and guide the router from one end of the slot to the other. Deep mortiseswill require two or more passes-no sweat,thanksto your plunge $ router'sturret stops.



t/a"threaded rod A.3/,,lnnn t

1/4" wing nut

1/+" flalwasner-Zf


1/zx 9s/ax 9" plywood

t / 2 x 6 1 / qx 1 1 " p l y w o o d I

1 / z x 1 x6 % "p l y w o o d -


#8 x 1 1/q" F.H. wood screw



,/ .<

sAe"shank hole, countersunk o 1/zx 3s/qx 1 1" plywood

%" plywood



Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2008

KeyholeRouting Jig

sturdy way to hang items, such as picture and mirror frames, shelves, and plaques, keyhole slots can spell trouble if they aren't exactlythe samedistancefrom the top of the project. You can go nuts offsetting the wall hangersto compensate for the misalignment. The keyhole-routing jig below, devised by WOODo magazinereader Don Thomas and modified by reader Luther

Williamson, consistsof a frame that fits your router'sbase.The routerrides on the rabbetson eachrail. With the help of a movable stop, you can bore slots 6%", 7Vq", or 8" from the top of the frame. After setting the stop, center and clamp the jig to one of the vertical frame pieces,place the router at the near end of thejig, plungewith a keyhole bit. slide it to the far end. then back out of the cut. Repeatthe processon the other

Lengthof router base + 3gle"




th" hole, countersunk

11/2" I


MovABLE sroP litgl',i^:?'


Panel-Routing Jig
routerremovesstock,so how can it raise a panel?Actually, plunging with a bearingless bit into the ield of a flat panel createsthe illusion of frame-and-panel construction. This techniqueis limited to making raisedpanelswith medium-densityfiberboard (MDF), which you plan to paint. The Panel-Routing Guides, shown below, amount to a simple frame with splined corners that let you adjust it to a variety of panel sizes. Cleats on the back of the frame capturethe panel.And to keep the router from tipping toward the field and ruining the cut, we taped a small disc the same thickness as the
t/6'y t5/16X 3/+"

guides to one corner of the router's base with double-faced tape. We madethesecuts with a plunge-ogee bit, but you also could use a bearingless ovolo or plunge bead bit. You also can create bevels and coves up to lVz" wide with bigger,3V2" raised-panel cutters,but theseare bestusedin a router table.|l

#8x 1"F.H. wood screw t/a"slots t/z" deep t/e"slots lz" deep
3/+x 3/qx 24" cleat

hardboard spline
3/qx3/q x 30" cleat 7/a+"pilol hole t/2" deep woodmagazine.com


CircleCutting Trammel
ere we offer two ways to help your plunge router get around. For routing larger circles and arcs,build and outfit your router Trammel,shown with the Circle-Cutting below,that cutscirclesup to aboutJ2" in diameter.The jig's two steel rods slide as shownat right. into the subbase, Set the radius of your arc or circle by measuringfrom the cutting edge of the bit to the centerpin on the jig, and lock knobs. in the radiususing the threaded Insert the pin into a predrilledhole at the center of the workpiece, and use With the trammellike a giant cornpass. thicker or harder stock, you rnay need progressively to make this cut in several passes. deeper Leery aboutdrilling a centerhole that might mar your project?Here'san easy solution:Drill and cut from the back or rF of the workpiece. underside
W r i t t e nb y J i m H u f n a g e l w i t hD a v i d C a m p b e l l T e c h n i c ac l o n s u l t a n tJ : ames R. Downing lllustrations R : o x a n n eL e M o i n e ;L o r n a J o h n s o n 1/a"rod 1s/q" long, g r o u n d to a point



%" plasticknob

ll +


: H i H

LocatepreviousWOADmaqazine router articlesat
\,vri( tifir.}{g r.'i{}ei '


1/q" hole

source, Fora hardware page11. see



Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008

ot only does this simple guide keep stock perfectly squareto the router fence, it also supports the back edgeof the routed stockto minimize tear-out. Plus, it keeps your hands safelyaway from the spinning bit. To build it, cut the pieces to the sizesand shapes noted on the drawing.Cut several extra supports so you can replace them as the inside end gets routed away. For a comfortable grip, rout the edges of the handle with a V4" round-over. Screw,but do not glue, the support to the base. Then, screw the handle to the base. Sufficiently countersink the screws securingthe handleto the base so they don't scratch or catchon the top of your routertable.lF
Project design:Tom Clark

RiiiitHr-Table Push Pad

HANDLE t/+"round-overs



7/aq" pilolholee/+" deep in handle

s/sz" shank hole,countersunk on bottomside,with a

Findmoreshopproiect plans at: woodmagazine.com/freeplans (

#8x11/z"F.H. wood screw



DouetailKey Jig
Perhapsno otherioint has more strength or better looks than a cornerjoined by through dovetails. But here'sa simpler joinery processthat comes pretty close. With just a router table and a homemadeiig, you can crank out terrific box corners like the one aboveright.
{ The jig below mountsto a miter gauge * that slidesin the miter slot of a router table. Built to the length shown,on most router tables it will handle boxes with sidesup to about24" wrde.You can tailor the length to better suit your router table. Note: If your table has a plunge router, it may be impossibleto raise the bit high enough to make a full-depth cut. AIso, the shorter shanks on smaller bits may prevent the bit from cutting high enough. In that case,you may have to make the jig froml/2" plywood. bit spacingon The miter slot-to-router your table may affect the exactplacement Be sureto put them where of the screws. the routerbit will not cut into them. . ;Mark the locationwherethe shankof :..,thedovetail through thejig bit will pass First usea 1"-wide in the following steps. in Drawing 2, to remove asshown dadoset. the stockin this areaof the jig; this will allow the bit to passthroughthejig. Make this cut through only the "V" portion of the jig-do not cut through the vertical piece that mounts to the miter gauge.

IexeloDED vrEW
t/a"sawdust relief rabbetst/a"deep





3/qx 31/qx 24'r plywood

#10 R.H.or P.H.woodscrews #8 x 11/2" F.H.wood screws

3/qx3x24" plywood


Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008


You also could make this cut by sawinga seriesof kerfs with a handsawand chiseling out the waste. Mount a dovetail bit in your tablemounted router. We used an tt/re"diameterbit with an 8ocutter angleand a /2" shank for the dovetails shown opposite top in the t/+"-thickcorner stock.Most dovetailbits will work, and you may want to consider using smallerbits for thinner stock.Raise the bit so it will cur to the correct approximatedepth through your workpiecesitting in the jig. jig throughthe spinningbit, QPass the \Jas shown in Drawing 3. The bit's shankshouldpreventthe bit from passing through the back sideof the jig. ,fi Assemble a mitered corner from *fscrap stock of the same thickness as the wood used in your box. Use this test piece to fine-tune the height of the routerbit. On the inside of the "V," mark the centerof the dovetailcut. as shownin Drawing 4. frOn a piece of paper that's as long as rJyour box corners,lay out the position of the dovetails.You can spacethe dovetails evenly or unevenly, but it usually looks bestto havea symmetricalarrangement.For our box, we put one dovetail in the exact center,with equal spacingbetween the dovetails.The spacebetween the end dovetailsand the endsof the corner equal half of the spacebetweenthe dovetails.Mark the dovetail centers. Position your layout on the inside of the jig's "V," as shown in Drawing 5,

with the centerof the right-mostdovetail aligned with the center mark on the jig. Positionand clamp the block at the end of the paperlayout. jig, butt it against ftPlace your box in the \rthe stop, turn on the router, and pass the V portion of the jig through the bit as shown in Drawing 6.Aftermakingthecut, lift the workpieceoff the jig and pull the jig back through the bit. Do not leavethe box in thejig whenyou pull thejig backdoing so may enlarge the dovetail cut. Make this cut on eachof the box corners (four total cuts). JRotate the box 180o so its bottom f facesin the oppositedirection it faced in the previousstep.Butt the box against the stop, and again cut each of the four cornersas shownin Drawing 7. Rotating the box in this fashionensures symmetrical spacing.Move the clampedstopblock as necessary to make the remaining cuts. QMeasure the depthof the dovetailcuts, \Jas shownin Drawing 8. Your dovetail key stock should be l/ro"thicker than the depth of the dovetail cut. Rip this stock so it's t/ro" wider than the widest part of the dovetail cut. Ousing the samedovetail bit as before, Vadjust it t/td" higher than the thickness of your dovetail-key stock. Adjust the fence on your router table so the bit just barely cuts into the key stock at table height, as shownin Drawing 9. Passthe stock along the bit. At the end of the cut you will get a small amount of snipe.You'll cut this off later.

{ flRotate the key stock end for end, | \Jkeeping the sameface down. Rout the other edge,as shownin Drawing 10. Test the fit of this stock in the dovetail cuts. (Slide the unsniped portion of the stock into the dovetail cut.) The stock should be slightly too wide. Adjust the fencejust a hair and recut the stock. Do this until the stockfits tightly in the dovetail cuts.Cut off the snipedends. { { Cut the key stock into lengths I I about W" longer than the dovetail cuts. Apply glue to the dovetail cuts and slide the keys into them, leaving about Vs" extra key length at both ends of the . dovetailcuts. After the glue sets,saw off the excess. key stock, as shown in Drawing 11. A special flush-cutting handsaw works well, or you can usea typical handsaw if you protect the box with a sheetof card stockas shown.Q
Writtenby Bill Krier with Chuck Hedlund lllustrations: Brian Jensen; Roxanne LeMoine



.,]',,lllx 3J li,J'T' [,T:-l:,i'l'-'

How Craig Bentzley wild grain Gorrals

I with some wild wood." says I craftsman Claig Bentzley of Chalfbnt. Pennsylvania.After more than 30 years of buildin-efurniture and restoring antiques, Craig's amassed a pile of curly. crotch, quilted, and spalted stock. Like -tems in the rough, these boards are destined to become door panels. tableparts in his tops. or other eye-catchin-s mllselrm-quality work. "Fi-uuredstock is tricky." l-resays. "Most production shops will toss theseboards becausethey're to<r much work." Though it takes time. taming wild stock can be rewarding. "Once yoLr see what yor"r'reworking with. you won't mind the extra tirne." he says.

Tametear-outwith jig a router-planing

Typically, wild-,grained boards are cupped. twisted. or bowed. To flatten thenr, Crai,e pref'ers usin-e hand planes, but this piece of crotch walnut, rigltt, tapered from one end to the other, required a dift-erent tact. "l could have hanclplaned one f'acein less time than it took to bLrildthe.iig. But now that it's bLrilt.the router works twice as fast." he says.The hoarcls ii,e's rails can be sized to sr.rrf-ace or lzirninations severalf'eetwide or lon-t. jiSThere are seven parts to Crai-e's two sides. two handles. a base. and two rails. To build it. cr-rt the parts to the dim e n s i o n ss h o w n i n D r a w i n g 1 . a n d t h e n d r i l l a n d c o u n t e r s i n kt h e s c r e w h o l e s i n the t/+"-thickacrylic base so the screw heads won't hit the rails and there's enou-uh thread to attach yoLlrroLlter. Drill 38

o c c


o 6 o o 6


Craig Bentzley'ssuper-simpleplaning jig cuts through all types of tough stock without tear-out. And while most jointers max out at 6 or 8"-wide,this jig can flatten b o a r d su p t o 1 7 " w i d e .
Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008

and countersink the remaining screw holes for attaching the base to the sides and the sides to the handles. Bore the centered hole for routerbit clearance, and the starterholesfor the handle openings. Cut the handle openings,dado the sides where shown, and then glue and screw thejig together. Note that the rails are simply made from 3/q"scrap plywood. Cut them so they standabout Vq"taller and at least6" longer than your workpiece. (The extra length preventsyour router from taking a nosedive at the end of the cut. Also, the inside rail or spacer allows you to rout beyond the edge of the workpiece.) You can use any flat-bottomed bit. but

Craig recommendsa ltA" diameter dishcarving bit that routs a wide path. The bit's radiused edges also help transition into the next pass.

How to put the routerplaningjig to work

Craig begins the planing processby first securing the workpiece to his bench and and attaching his router to the jig's acrylic base. To hold the workpiece in place and to preventit from rocking, he uses a combination of wedges,hot-melt glue (to temporarily weld the rails to the workpiece), and bench dogs (to secure everything to the bench). Next, he sets his router bit to make a light cut, and

with the tool turned on, he runs the jig over the face of the workpiece,as shown opposite. The bit will cut the same regardlessof the way the grain is running, so you can make your passes back and forth or acrossthe board. He makes successively deeperpasses, if needed,to flatten the workpiece. This jig also doublesas a no-tear-out thicknesser. Once Craig surfaces one face, he removes the wedges,flips the board over, and surfacesthe other side. Becausethe bit cuts the wood at a different angle than planer knives, it won't tear the stock.Leavethe board aboutVro" extra thick for sandinsrouter tracks. lF

vtEW ll exploDED




?' DY"

1tla" starter hole


lqx7 x 36" clearacrylic 7se" shank hole,countersunk on bottomface

Router mounting holes

3/a" dado th" deep

# 8 x 1 1 / z 'F . H . wood screws

. Learn to readroughwood.Unusual tear-outfrom the sawmillmight suggestbird's-eye or curlyfigure. . Tamethetwistfirst.Flatten oneface usinga plane,jointer, or a planing jig. At this point,minortearout is okay;you'reonly trying to establish a flat reference surface. . Adjust yourmachines to cut lightly. Set yourjointerand planerto makesuper-light cuts,especially on the first pass.To improvethe cut, feed the board at an angle. You can try misting down the board with a 50/50 mixture of fabric softener and water-a mixture that helps expand and soften fibers so they cut rather thantearout. . When all else fails, scrape or sand. A scraperplane,such as the one shown below, is faster than sanding, and leaves a smoother surface.

4 tips forwildwood

sEcloN vtEW l! eruo





Fitting in somewhere between a smoothing plane and a belt sandern a scraping plane does the best job of cleaning up curly stock. Being the easiest plane to master, it requires no set-up and leaves a smoother finished surface than a router.




Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008

Ithoughindispensable in a woodworking shop,most drill presses come equippedwith a table more suitedto metalworking.This addon table with fence sets things straight, supplying everything the cast-iron table on your drill presslacks.



Start with the table

For the base (A), cut two l4Vzx29vz" plywood.(We usedBaltic I pieces of t/2" birch plywood for its flatnessand absence of voids.You also can use regularbirch plywood or medium-densityfiberboard.) Glue and clamp the piecestogether, keeping their ends and edges flush, where shownon Drawing 1. f)From t/+"temperedhardboard,cut the ltap sides (B), top front (C), and top back(D) to the sizeslistedin the Materials List. Mark thez/s"-radius finger notch on the front edgeof part D, where shown on Drawing 1. Cut and sandit to shape. [The notch makes it easy to remove the insert (E).1Now spreadglue on the backs of the hardboardtop parts, and glue and clampthem to the l"-thick plywoodbase, as shownin Photo A. cutoutat the rear QDraw the 3t/q"-radius \Jof the table,whereshown on Drawing 1. Bandsaw or jigsaw and sandit to shape. cttout in the ATo locate the 3Vzx3Vz" 'Tadd-on table base,install a Ve"bit in the drill-press chuck, center your metal drill-press table under the bit, and lock the table in place. Position the add-on table to centerthe bit in the recess for the insert(E) created by partsB, C, and D. If the metal drill-press table protrudesbeyond the front edge of the add-on table, slide the add-on table forward until the two are flush. Clamp the add-ontable in place. Now drill a %" hole all the way through the base(A). Removethe add-on table, and turn it upsidedown. Mark the 3Vzx3Vz" cutout centeredon the Vs"hole. Then drill 3/s"holes at the corners, and cut the opening with a jigsaw. Now cut the insert (E) to the size listed. f,For a drill press with slots through tJits metal table, cut the groove for the mini-track in the bottom of the add-on tablewhereshownon Drawing 1. For a drill press without slots in its metal table,drill two V+"mountingholes. Locate the holes about halfway between the center of the table and its rear edge and as far apart as possible.Then clamp the add-on table in place as before, and tracethe hole locationson its bottom. Cut the groovefor the mini-track so it passes over the hole locations. {
woodmagazine.com 141/z'


on centerpointof I chuck Centerpointof chuck

g/sz" pilot hole

4Y2' 291/z'

#6x1/2" F.H.woodscrew

7+"mini-track 29t/z"long

With glue applied to their bottom surfaces, position top parts B, C, and D on the 1"-thick base (A). To keep them from shifting, tape the top parts to each other and to the base with masking tape. Then clamp the top and base between 7+"-thickcauls and 2x3 bearers.

ftTurn the table over, and cut dadoes \Jfor the top mini-tracks, where shown on Drawing 2. (The dadoesare centered on thejoint lines betweenthe parts B and the parts C and D.) Note: To add under-table dust collection for the sanding-drum setup shown in the photo, near left, see page 46.

Now, make the fence

{ Cut the base blank (F), face blanlc I (G), lower rear blank (H), and upper rear blank (I) to size. Install a :/a" dado blade in your tablesaw,and position the fenceto cut centered groovesin the thickness of parts H and I, where shown on Drawings 3 and 4. Then cut %0"-deep groovesin theseparts, and mark the face 41

knob FEN.E EXTENST.N .4-arm 74"press-ln insert fs,threaded

t/+"F.H. bolt |t/z" long

/+" SAE washer Ta"steel rod 14/2" long

that was against the saw -'"14r/;,long fence. When cutting the v tU-jJX top and bottom grooves MICRO-ADJUSTABLE in the lower rear blank. STOPBLOCK keep the marked face against the fence for both cuts. Now HOLD-DOWN without changingthe setup,cut a mating ASSEMBLY groovein the baseblank. a)Glue and clamp the face blank (G) to Athe base blank (F), where shown on Drawing 4. Make sure the face blank is squareto the base blank. With the glue dry, glue and clamp the lower rear blank (H) and upper rear blank (I) in place, as 7+"mini-track



%" hexheadbolt |Vz" long


14V2" long

4t/2"(See Step 5 on page 41.)

1/q" hole or existingslot TABLE DRILL-PRESS -: =-.-.: taperedhandleknob

With their marked faces against the back of the face blank (G), glue the lower rear blank (H) and the upper rear blank (l) to each other and to the base blank (F) and face blank (G). Apply clamping pressure in two directions.

shown in Photo B. Before the glue dries, run a length of 7s" steel rod in and out of the glue. squareholesto clear awayany excess minigroove3/e" deep for the a3/q" {!Cut 9track in the fence face (G), where shown on Drawing 4. Then cut a VsxVB" sawdust-relief rabbet along the bottom edge of the fence face.

fence /lTrim one end of the assembled rtblank and then cut it into three square, pieces,where shownon Drawing 3, makfence and two 3Vz"-long ing a 22V2"-long extensions. Cut off the baseportions of the where shown on Drawing 4. extensions,

Tiros on usinct thieaded ins-erts

Shop fixtures and jigs often requirethe installation of variousclampingor adjustment knobs.That'swhen you'll reachfor threadedinserts.Commonlyavailablein sizes from #8-32 (a #8 screw body with (as/a" screw 32 threadsper inch)to 3/a"-16 body with 16 threadsper inch),there are two basic types: thread-inand press-in, shown at near right. Use thread-ininserts in softer woods and plywoodwhere their coarse outside threadscut easily into the surrounding wood. Simply drill a hole sized for the bodyof the insert,and screwit intoplace. ln very hard woods, such as white oak and maple,or whenthe insertis closeto the edge of a part and screwingit in may splitthe wood, drill a hole slightlylarger than the outside thread diameter,and 42

epoxy the insert in place.To protectthe internal threads from epoxy, cover the end of the insert,as shown above right. Press-ininserts,with their barbedexteriors,work well in hard or soft woods and plywood.Drill a hole sized for the body of the insert,and press it into place with a clampor tap it in with a hammerand a

in which blockof wood. For applications the clampingactiontendsto push the insert out of the wood, such as the knobs fence that tightendown on the drill-press rods,drilla hole that engages extension just the tips of the insertbarbsand epoxy the insertin place.

Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers



3/s" grooves s/0"deep,
7e" groove s/0" deep 3Aa"trom front edge

Holesizedto fit ..2 drillchuck key

#6 x 1/2" F.H. wood screw

pilothole 7sz" Te"deep /a" rabbet


Trim basesfrom both extensions.

ffiBending a fairing strip to join their ruFendpoints and centerpoints, mark the centered radius cutouts on the top of the fence and the back of its base (F), where shown on Drawing 3. Bandsaw or jigsaw, and sand them to shape. Then drill /-+"holes for the bolts that hold the fence to the table and a hole for the drill-press chuck key in the f-ence base, where shown in Drawing 3. ftTo install press-inthreaded inserts in Vthe fence portion of part l, drlll1/a" holes to intersect the top square hole in the fence, where shown on Drawings 3 and 4. Spread epoxy in the holes, and press the inserts in place. When the epoxy cures, ream out any excess that may have dripped into the extension rod holes with a 7s" drill bit. For more information on using threaded inserts, see the sidebar,opltosite. I iI:i':;l "-iiii: etS$gf1^6L]5q' t t " i g i . * r 6 ^ - : r;:. r i t r i , F f E ! { ; e { Cover the bottoms of the grooves & and dadoes for the mini-track in the table and fence with masking tape. Now apply a clear finish to all parts. (We used two coats of satin polyurethane, sanding between coats with 220-grit sandpaper.) When the final coat of finish dries. remove the masking tape. QUsing the countersunk holes in the ffimini-track as guides, drill pilot holes into the mating table and fence parts. (The mini-track supplied with the hardware kit listed in Sources on page 44 comes cut to the needed lengths.) Apply epoxy to the bottoms of the grooves and dadoes, and screw and clamp the minitrack in place. woodmagazine.com

Note: The mini-track has a small flange along one outside edge, where shown on Drawing 4. To make certain the track in the fence aligns with the track in the extensions, orient the flange in the same direction in all three parts. *$Cut four l4t/z"-longpiecta#les of 3/s"steel rod with a hacksaw.Using SO-gritsandpaper, rough up 3V2."at one end of each rod, and epoxy these ends into the square holes in the fence extensions. To hold the rods parallel while the epoxy cures, insert their other ends into the square holes in the fence. ^ft To make knobs for lock%ine the fence extensions

sEcTtoN vtEW Ereruce

7/'ra"hole e/6" deep

7e" grooves /io" deep, centered

7a"grooves3/6"deep, centered Mini-track


Trim the fence extensions here.

in place,refer to Drawing 2, and thread 7r/z."-long flathead bolts partway into a pair of four-armknobs.Apply epoxy under the heads,and then seatthe bolts in the knobs. ffi,At shown on Drawing 2, slide the q#heads of two hexheadbolts into the auxiliary table bottom mini-track.Position the auxiliarytableon the drill-press table,droppingthe bolts into the slotsor holes.Add washers and threadon the taperedhandleknobs. Note: The taperedhandle knobsfor this jig accept about t/u" of bolt length. You may need to trim the 2"-long hexhead bolts to accommodatethe thickness of your drill-press table. bolts into the auxiliary ffiSlide hexhead {#table topmini-tracks. Align rheholes in

the fencebasewith the bolts,drop on flat washers, andfasten the fencewith four-arm knobs.Then, slide the extension rods into the fence,andthreadin the lockingknobs.

-edffiffi rTfrLi.i ris [;r$*$**tmpfuf; u*re,

S To form the body (J), cut two pieces F of /+" stockto 2x21/s", and glue them togetherface-to-face, keepingtheir ends and edgesflush. With the glue dry, cut a t/+"dado3/t(," deepcenteredin the back of the body,whereshownon Drawing 5. ffiCut the pad (K) to size, and adhere f it with double-faced tape ro rhe right side of the body (J) in the configurarion shownon Drawing 5. Chuck a t/2"Forstner bit in your drill press, and drill a 3/t"deep counterbore in the left side of the body, where dimensioned and as shown 43

tZ" counterbore7e"deep with a r/+"hole centeredinside r/+"lock nut epoxied

g/+" 7e"deep counterbore

into nartQ

in Photo C. Now, without moving the parts,changeto a t/q"bit, and drill a hole, centeredin the counterbore,all the way throughboth parts. QSeparate the pad (K) from the body trr(J). Using a 3/q" Forstnerbit, drill 3/s"in the body and pad, deep counterbores centered on the /+" holes, where shown on Drawing 5. tto centerthe Forstnerbit, dowel in the holesbeinsert piecesof V+" bit in fore drilling. Now, centeringa t7/oq" the t/q"dado in the back of the body, drill a hole through the body, where shown. lllEpoxy a lock nut in the Vz"counter'tbore in the body (J). Then cut the guide bar (L) to size,and glue and clamp it in the dado in the back of the body, flush with its right edge,where shownon Drawing 5. EApply a clear finish to the parts.With 9the finish dry, slip a /+" SAE washer bolt, and insert it in the onto the roundhead holein the pad (K). (A /+" SAE washerhas an outside diameter of s/t".)Slip another washeronto the bolt. and then thread on a lock nut. Tighten the lock nut so it firmly holds the pad, but still allows the bolt to the pad and the body turn. Now assemble (J), as shownin Photo D, driving the bolt until the pad contactsthe body.

4-arm knobs



'f:.tt?33' \sb@ o/e,, deep 7a" counterbore


th,, dado

t/a" hexhead bolt 2" long


r/a" roundhead
hnlt 4tl2" 41/c" long lono, bolt

/a" SAE washer


t/a"lock nut l"t,?' H


( \



( /a" sAE \--washer

/q" SAE washer

Epoxy a four-arm knob onto the end of the roundheadbolt. Slide a hexheadbolt through the stop body (J) from the back. and add a washerand four-arm knob at the front, as shown on Drawing 5. To use the stopblock,first adjust it to leave Vz" between the pad (K) and the body. Slide the guide bar and the bolt hexheadinto the mini-track, using a ruler to position the stopblock or tape measure from the drill closeto the desireddistance bit. Clamp it in place by tightening the front knob. Now fine-tunethe distanceto the bit by turning the end knob. Because the clamping knob and guide bar (L) are centeredin the stopblockbody, you can use it on either side of the drill-press chuck by simply turning it over.

JAssemble the hold-downclampsin the f configuration shown on Drawing 2. Slide the hexheadsof their bolts into the mini-track. Now yolr woodworking drill pressis ready for action.Q
Written by Jan Svec Projectdesign:Jeff Mertz Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson lllustrations:

base B topsides C topfront D topback


141/z' 29Y2"


1/q" 1O/a' 14Y2" 1/t" 3Y4" 83/4" 83A"

1/+" 5%"

blank base G faceblank

Yz" 3u 32'

rear blank 3A" 1Y2" 32' H lower rear blank s/t" 3/+" upper

body K pad L guide bar




3/+" '1Y2" 27/eu

1/4, 3/s, 11/d'

With the pad (K) down and the dadoed back of the body (J) against the fence, clamp the parts in place, and drill a 72"counterbore3/e"deep in the side of the body.

With the pad (K) mounted on the bolt with washers and a lock nut, slide the bolt into the stop body (J), and drive it into the lock nut epoxied in the body.

plywood, H-tempered key:LP-laminated Materials maple. M-maple, LM-laminated hardboard, t/"dowel, epoxy. tape, tape, double{aced Masking Supplies: bits. /+"Forstner /2" and dado set: Blades andbits:Stack

(12); wood screws flathead kit. #6xlz" Hardware (1), (2), long 22Y2" (1),14y2' long 2912" long mini-track: 7a" t/a" (2); press'in inserts %" (2); threaded long andSlz" (2); long %" (4); 11/2" bolls long %"flathead rod1412" steel t/+" 1/i' long (1); hexhead bolts: long boll4lz" roundhead t/i' lock (2); (5); nuts (3); flatwashers (2), 2"long %"SAE (2);1/q" lDxl1h" (6);tapered handle knobs knobs four-arm (2). (2); Kitno hold-down assemblies washers ODlender Woodplus & Sons Schlabaugh shipping. ADP-1, $64.95 schsons.com. working, 800-346-9663, pieces goodskit. Two ofBaltic Vzxl4Tzx29Vz" Sheet piece plywood oftempered andone1/rx15Vqx31{s" birch plus Telephone shipping. LP-6, Kitno. hardboard, $25.95 listed above. Web address number and

Cutting Diagram
1/2x24 x 30" Baltic birch plywood(2 needed) 1/rx 24 x 48" Hardboard *Resawand plane to the thicknesses listedin the MaterialsList.

g/+x51/zx 96" Maple (4 bd. ft.)


Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers


7i//), ,/,1

hether you acld sancling-clrurl ch-rst collection to the adcl-on clrill-press table. clr to solre 's other table. hele the lowdown on how to do it. Before applying t h e f i n i s h a n c l i n s t a l l i n gt h e t n i n i - t r a c k . Iay orrt t 2t/:"-wiclestoppeclchannel that intersectsthe 3t/:x3t/:" cutout in tl-retable. w,lrere shown in clrawin_9 belrnr. (Ltty out tlie channel to tl'reright or lefi of the centercLltolrt, depenclin-u ctnthe rnostconvenient location for youl shop vactrurl.) Then aclhere scrapwc-rocl -luicles to the t a b l e w i t h c l o L r b l e - l a c et ca l pe. aligning t h e n r w i t h t h e l a y o L r tl i n e s . N o w r o u t a y'ir"-cleep channel. as sho\.1,n in Photo A.

Note: If'vour tuble doe.sn't huve a cutout ('ortter ltole .s, urtcl.jiguntl ittsert, drill -y's" .\ovt'u cutoltt. Tltett rout o-t/t" rubbet t/t" cleeptround it.serlge.s.fbr u t/t"-tltic'k insert. Change to a-%"rabbetin_e bit. and rout a /s"-cleep rabbet along the edges of the centef cLrtoLtt ancl the channel. ils shou,n in Photo B. Stop the rabbet wherc dintensioned beknr. Cr-rt two %" hardboard covers to fit the rabbetecl openin-us, anclglue and c l a r n p t h e r l i n p l a c e .A p p l y a f i n i s h . a n d i n s t a l l t h e n t i n i - t r a c k .U s i n - u the l-roles in the shop-vacLlLlm dust port as _quides. drill screw holes. anclfhsten it in place. IF


l"lust port shop-vacuum dust n0.03J61.10, B*ri"Plastic Lee Valley. Using a pattern bit guided by scrapwood Call800-871-8158 $2.50. orgoto guides,rout a 2t/2"-wide stoppedchannel leevalley.com. %" deep in the bottom of the table.
21/e x 41/q x 41/q" hardboard


Sandradius to matchrabbeted corners. Leavethesecorners souare.

1/a x 31h x 81/2" hardboard

Sandradius to match rabbeted corners.

3t/zx 3t/2"cutoul

Shop-vacuum dustport panhead #6 x 1/2"


%" rabbeta--5 Va' deep \

#6 flatwasher

Stop line

EXPLODED VIEW (Bottomside shown)

-widestoppedchannel 21/2" s/e" deep,centered on the 3t/zx 3t/2" cutout


Rout a 7s"rabbet /a" deep along the edges of the 31/2x31/2" cutout and the edges of the 2t/2"-wide channel,stopping 3" from its end.



ls your bandsaw the versatile precisiontool you want it to be?





"rilHfi,-; *m$i.lj

e'vejust the solutionfor you. Thejig tableincreases the size of your bandsaw table, and the guidessteadythe bladeat

tabletop height to minimize any blade wander and increase accuracy. Next, add the easy-to-alignfence, shown on page 51. Finally, the circle-cuting guide attachment, shown on page 52, allows you to cut disc after disc with amazing accuracy and consistency without ever drilling a hole in your workpiece.



The slotsallow you to adjustthe woodjig table. tableon the metalbandsaw the front table and clamp ftReposition in front table l3/+" Lt(A) to your bandsaw of the centerof the blade. As shown in Photo A, usea centerpunchto mark the onto the metal centerof the slot locations table. Removethe front wood table, and holethroughyour metalbanddrill a t3/r,+" saw table at eachmarkedcenterpoint. ATup the holes in the metal bandsaw tap. f tablewith a r/+-20

Next, add the spacers and bladeguides

Using the front table as a guide, use a center punch to mark the hole locations on the metal bandsaw table.

Note: This jig was designedto fit most 14" bandsawtables.If your metal bandsaw table measuresmore than 10" in front of or behind the blade, you'll need to increase the depth (front to back) of more thejig. If your metal table measures you'll side of the blade, than 9" on either 'need to increasethe width of thejig table. For larger bandsaw tables, the distance betweenthe guides (E) must be 1/t"more than the width of your metal table plus the length of the protrusion of the metal pin. alignment

Start with the two-part plywood table

.l Cut the two tables(A) to the size lisr I ed in the Materials List. (Due to its we used7+"[8mm stabilityand strength, actuall Baltic birch plywood.)Mark and cut a 7+" radius on two cornersof each table,whereshownon Drawing 2. f)Using a /+" spline cutter in a router &table or a dadobladein your tablesaw, grooves/r," deep,centeredalong cut a V+" the insideedgeof eachtable(A). 48

ff Placethe front table(A) on your metal tJbandsaw table, and center the table from the blade. Now, stand side-to-side and move the in front of your bandsaw, tabletowardyou until it is l7+"in front of the centerof the bandsawblade.Clamp the tablein place. /lLook under the metal table on your 'Tbandsaw, and locate any protruding Then, locateand mark websor brackets. holeson for a pair of Vq" the centerpoints the front table,beingcarefulnot to locate the holesdirectly overany websor brackets on the bottom sideof the metal table. twist Hold a drill with a r/q"hrgh-speed bit in it directly over the markedcenterpoints,and make sure the drill can be to positionedso the bit is perpendicular the table.If the top of the bandsawgets in the way, move the hole centerpoints forward,againbeingcarefulnot to locate them over any webs or bracketson the bottom sideof the metaltable. fRemove the front table sectionfrom jig, and form a pair of Uyour bandsaw counterbored slotsin it, where indicated on the FrontTableportionof Drawing 2.

(B) and bladeguides Cut the spacers I (C) to size. flUsine your tablesawor router table, hori i tonguealong both edgesof to fit snugbut slidesmoothly eachspacer in the mating groovesin the front and rear tables(A). flForm a t/v,"-notchl3A" long in each tJbfade guide, where shown opposite on Drawing 1a. I Drill the holes,and screw the blade rtguides (C) to the spacers(B). Note that you will have a mirror-imagerighr Sand hand and leflhand spacer/guide. the top and bottom of the blade guides if necessary. flush with the spacers {

Gut and secure the clamp blocks and guides

Cut the clamp blocks (D) to size. holes.where I Mark and drill the sAz" shownon Drawing 2. holesin eachclamp ff Drill a pair of 3/e" 4block throush which the all-thread rod will pass. {lCut two piecesof 7s" all-threadrod \Jto 23r/z"lons. ./f Screw the ilocks to the bottom side tof the front and rear tables(A), where shownon Drawing 2. {

Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2008

IE SPNCER/GUIDE (Right-hand spacer/guide shown)

s/sz" hole, countersunk \ #8 x 11/z' F.H. wood screws f.--t31/z'

ry"J W
1s/q"rabbel t/a" deep

7/a+" pilol holes g/+"deep

tZ" rabbetstA" deeptop and bottom

E To form the guides (E), rip four 7s"stock t lthick stripsfrom the edgeof 3/q" l9t/s" long. Using the Groove detail acDrawing 1 for reference, cut companying groove3/to" a 3/s" deep,centered alongone edgeof eachstrip. ftDry-clamp two of the strips together \lgroove-to-groove. Slide a pieceof 3/s" all-threadrod into the opening created by the mating grooves.The rod should fit snugly yet slide back and forth in the opening. Enlargethe grooveif necessary. Then, glue and clamp the two strips together to make each guide (E). Run the all-threadrod through the squareopening in each laminated guide to remove any glue squeeze-out. Wait l0 minutes, and repeatthe reamingprocess. J Sand each guide (E) smooth.Then, f aritt t/16"pilot holes through each guide 3Az" from the edges,where shown on Drawing 1. Later, you'll drive nails throughtheseholesto securethe guides to the bottom of the rear table (A).

(left-hand SPACER/GUIDE one shown; guideis not shown in drawing) right-handed 1/a-20 x 1" panhead machinesbrew \ (holesin bandsaw tabletappedto fit)
t/q" deep with a t/a" slot 7a" long, centered inside

1/a" groove5/6"deep,centeredalongedge


e/e"SAE flat washer and nut

t/zx1" slot

t/q" groove s/ro"deep, centered along edge


Note: Guides(E) are gluedand nailed to reartable (A). 7a"all-thread rod 23t/z"long
Te" hole

, lf I I

#B x 1 1/q" F.H, wood screw

1 1 / qx " 16 finish nail s/sz"trom outside edge Drill%e"pilot hole first.

78"SAE flat washerand nut




guides 3/a' 4" spacer bladeguides



3/n" s/q" 31/z'

clampblocks 3/+" 11/4' 20"

3/q' 3/qu 197/a'

I\/ LCI'


I tl

F.H.' #8 x 11/q" wood sc rew s/sz"

hole, countersunk on bottomside

f( ".+-ff .)r\/ (t
\ Ta".grOOveJ ) [

E guides

plywood, Materials key:BP-birch B-birch. (8), Supplies: #8x1r/q" flathead wood #8x1t/z' screws (4), flathead wood screws 1/+'x16 finish nails, 7e" (2), all{hread rod231/z" long %'SAE flat washers and 1/q-20x1" (4), panhead (2). nuts machine screws woodmagazine.com

Findmoregreatjigsat w ood magazi ne.com/ji gs


(B, (A) andspacers QPosition thetables fJCl upsidedown on your workbench, with the spacersbetweenthe tables as shownin Photo B. Slide the all-thread rod through the clamp blocks (D) and a t/+" guides(E) to align the pieces.Leave gap at the front end of eachguide (E) and next to one clamp block (D). Glue and nail the guidesto just the rear table (A).


Here's how to set the blade guides

machinescrews, Using a pair of panhead Adjustthe attachthejig to your bandsaw. wood tablesand guides so the blade is positionedbetweenthe blade guides,as shown on Drawing 3 below. The blade guides(C) shouldbejust nextto the blade without touchingit. Note:If youplanto buildthe Circle-Cutting Guide (page52),the trammelpoint must be exactlyperpendicular to the bandsaw blade'stooth tips or the circles attempted won't be perfectly sized. simplyremove For changingtheblade, the nuts and washersfrom thefront end of the front table,and slide the rear table (A) off the metal bandsawtable. Change the rear table.lF and reconnect blades,


With the tables and spacers upside down, slide the all-threadrod through the clamp b l o c k s a n d g u i d e s t o a l i g n t h e p i e c e s .N a i l t h e g u i d e s i n p l a c e .

vrEW @ennrs





| '/4

\ of @ Location

I 101

of @ LocatioH I 71/q" groove 5/6" deep, '


LocATtoN EleLnoe

t/a" slot s/q"long, centered inside

oneose cdn{ereo


1/z x 1" slots /+" deep with a 7a" slot 7a" long, centered inside




4I-l 2I |.of blade Gullet shouldalmosttouch edge of notch. .Dimension as in the determined howto copyto provide clearance necessary through whendrilling the tableintothe metal bandsawtable. i 1/o"gal



--l *2 @t/a" gap

',,r.- Localion of @


i ---z


Location of@ 1

11/q" s/|,


on bottomside holes,countersunk 7ez"

t" l-a ] ]l



Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008


Alignable Bandsaw


andsawblades don't always track straight, especially when you're making long rip cuts. The blade can wander off its intendedpath and ruin your work. The folks at bandsaw blade-manufacturer Lenox gaveus a litany of causes: Toolow blade tension,a difference in sharpness or tooth set on one side of your blade,poorly alignedbladeguides, evena buildupof sawdust between theblade

and the wheel. To make ripping stock on your bandsaw an accurate task, build this alignablefenceto useon your table,or with jig on page48. our precision bandsaw Begin by cuttingthe piecesand assembling themasshownon Drawingl below. The body (A) tapersalong one edge.Cut the body so the widestportion is centered on your bandsaw blade.When gluing and screwingthe fence head (C) to the body,

make surethe headis at a90" angleto the non-tapered edge. Once you haveall the parts assembled, positionthe fenceon your bandsaw table. Tighten the3/s" handleto securethe fence in place. Test-rip on a piece of scrap, and alternately loosen one machine screw and tightenthe other until the fenceis parallel to the cutting track of the blade. For example,if the bladewandersin (towardthe fence),bring the infeed end slightly closer to the body by turning out the outfeed screwand turning in the infeed screw.If it goes out from the fence, do the opposite. Loosen and tighten the screws the sameamount so as not to bow the fence. On shorterripping cuts, suchas when cutting shoulders on a tenon,blade travel usually isn't a problem.For theseoperations, remove the entire assembly and rotateit so the untapered edgeof the body is closest to the blade.|l
ProjectDesign:Chuck Hedlund lllustrations :i m D o w n i n g ; L o r n a J o h n s o n K Photography: Hetherington Photography


panheadsheet-metalscrews #6 x 3/n" -----l--.Note: Do not screw the aluminumplate tight againstthe gApbetr,ieenihe plateand @. beveledend of @. Leaveat/sz"

vtEW I exeloDED
11/zx 11/2"birch

nluHltrrrruM PLATE @ t/e

x 1t/ax 21/q" aluminum


@ aoov


. .11/a"

13/32" 1\l*n., ru , ,

\.,,,' i\-_ t72\

lTse" groove t3/ez" deep (Cut it before laminating Width of bandsaw and tapering.) lable + 1t/2"

Taper stafts at center of bandsawblade.Blockis taperedafterlaminating.


lock nut

#10-32x 11/2" R.H. machinescrew #10-32threadedinsert FENCE 3/qx11/2" birch,lengthequals width of bandsawtable + 1r/2"
7e" hole tA" deep, with a 3/ro" hole centered inside

3/e"hole 1V+" deep

7a"all{hreadrod 263/e" long


/e" shankholes



@ rrrrrceHEAD
s/qx 1Y2"birch


7sz" shank holes,countersunk on bottomside. pilotholes/q" Requires a7/aq" deep drilledinto bottomof fence'boOV @ Locatescrews to avoid groove.

13/sz" hole, centered


over groove





Multi-Jig Bandsaw

Circle-Cutting Guide
t/ax3/a" flat { Crosscut two pieces of I steelto 18" long. Cut two piecesto t/sxlxl7/rc"for the stop. See Drawing 1 Drill and tap the holes in for reference. the stoppieceswhereshown. flCut the arms (A) to sizefrom %" solid Astock (we usedbirch). (B) QCut the arm spacers and sliding Utrammel (C) to sizeplus 12"in length from t/2"stock. t/+" rabbet t/+" deep along the 1/lCut a t?bottom outsideedgeof eacharm (A), where shown below. Tesrfit the newly createdtenon on eacharm into the matpages47-50. ing slotsin the table.See 3/s"deep, centered groove a %" fiCut tJalons the inside edee of each arm (A) and along the extrallong blanks for (B) and sliding trammel the arm spacers (C), whereshownin Drawing 1a. Check that the t/sx3Axl8"flat steel stock slides smoothlywithout slop in the groovesin the parts A, B, and C. Then, crosscut partsB and C to lengthfrom the 12"-long blankswhereshownin Drawing 1. in the slidfrDrill a'ls" hole,centered, Lling trammel(C). Drive at/+"threaded into the insertsquare slidingtrammel. 'f Hacksaw the f heads off two tA" hexhead bolts with smooth upper shanks. Cut to 3/1" long to form the two 7+"-longtrammel pointslike thoseshownin Drawing 1a. (lAssemble (dry-fit)the flat steel into Llthe groove in the arms (A), and position parts B and C betweenthe steel stock.The trammel (C) must slide back and forth on the flat steel. Sand the until grooves in the trammelif necessary it slidesfreely. flEpoxy the steelstockinto the grooves {fin the arms (A). Immediatelvremove any excess epoxy. Later, position the spacers (B) and sliding trammel (C) keepingthe the two assemblies, between flush with the end ends of the spacers in place; of the arms. Epoxy the spacers the trammel must be le.ftfree to slide on the steel stock Rub a bit of paraffin so the trammel on the bars if necessary slidessmoothly. t/q-20machine screw, { flUsing the I usecure the stopto the steelstockso the stopwill slideon the flat steelstock. { { Cut the tranrmeldisc (D) to shape, tr I anddrill a %:" holein its center.For useof thisjig, seeDrawing 2. dP

'lg" B* arm soacers 1/z' 11/z' 11/z'

trammel t/2" 11/z' 11/z' C* slidino

H 3%" diam. D trammeldisc -Cut parts Trim inlength. to marked with an* oversize according totheinstructions. finished size

key:B-birch, H-hardboard. Materials l/axs/t" " flatsteel flalsteel %x1 36"long, Supplies: t/+threaded hexhead bolts inserl:2-th-20x2" long, 3tl2" 1/q-20x1/2" points), (for machine screw flathead trammel (trimmed long). tou/ro'

vrEW I exeloDED
s/0"chamferon inboardbottomend of arms 1/q-20 F.H. machinescrew long trimmedto z/ro" Inboard end of guide ../


offto formpins,.
hexhead Use 1/a-20 boltswith headscut Grindtop half of bbtt

,.n'19 =\$\l-" "';['fr,i1"o Vl

Saw a screw driverslot in bottomends of trammel points.
t/q" rabbel t/q" deep t/e" grooves 7a" deep, centered on edge of stock /a" flat steel 3/q" wide x 18" long t/e" grooves 3/8"deep

\ ziJi rJ\ (" -


t/q" hole. centered and countersunk t/e"flat steel long 1" wide x 1zlro"

7e"hole, centered

r7oq" hole,tappedfor machinescrew

TRAMMEL @ slrorr.rc
1/+"rabbel t/+"deep -


Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008

Plans YardFigure
;# ri'




,*" ,':. ,
::. *,

,:.i', :1i+1

f fii;hi " ..4? i t


Set stop to achieve radiusof circleto be cut. spacerguide,and Remove the right-hand guide. replace it withthe circle-cutting Position the sliding trammel and secure fromthe centerof the pin so the distance of the to the bladeis eoualto the radius circlevou wantto cut.

PlanOFS-I003 513.95

Angels HeavenlyWinds PlanOFS-I080 513.95

Sittin'Pretty Santa PlanOFS-I060 513.95


Sleigh PlanOFS-I011 513.95


s i n g d o u b l e - f a c e dt a p e , a d h e r e t h e

trammeldisc to the bottomcenterof the stock.Position it ontothe oin.

Sleekand StylishReindeer PlanOFS-I068 513.95

Luminaria All-Star PlanOFS-I049 59.95

Startwith the edge of the stockagainst the blade. Turnthe saw on, and slowly rotatethe stock intothe blade.At the sametime,slowlypushthe stock (mounted to the discand sliding trammel) toward the bladeuntilthesliding trammel withthe stop.Bladewill comesin contact perfect beginto cut a circleat this point.

AngelicChorus PlanOFS-I019 513.95

Paper JumboTransfer TS-1010 S9.9s

plans more 1,000 woodworking at: See than other

ne.com woodmagazi /plans

perorder patterns toll-fiee: Add these full-sized mailed to you. Call to have 53(5+H)

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BiscuitJig Joiner
Mountyour biscuit joinerto this handyiig, and step up to a new levelof precisionand when convenience cutting slots in 3/a"-thick material.

Start with the base

.fl From /+" plywood,cut the base(A) to I the finished size of 18x233/+". From t/q"temperedhardboard,cut the top (B) to l8t/+x24". flUsing a dado bladein your tablesaw, &cut a 7s"groovet/s"deepin the top of whereshownon Drawing 1 and the base, dimensioned on Drawing 2. f}Ar shown in Photo A, use scrap Vl/1" plywood for a platen,cauls, and spacers, to adherethe oversize top (B) to the base (A) with yellow woodworking glue. Centerthe top with an equal overhang on all edges.After the glue dries, trim the top flush with the baseusing a flush-trimbit in your router. a{ Refit vour tablesawwith a t/+" dado G*utua..'Then cut a r/+"-deep groovein the top (B) centeredover the 7s" groove in the base (A), where dimensioned on Drawing 2. (This forms a T-slot for the alignment-guide toilet bolt, whereshown on Drawing 1.)Now change to a /g" dado groove in the blade, and cut a 3/a"-deep base/top, where dimensioned on Drawing2. (This grooveholdspartsin position whenplungingslotsin beveled edges.) '/+" plywood, cut the brackets ffiFrom sJ(C), fences(D), and cleats(E) to the sizes listedin theMaterialsList. Position 54

Edge-to-edge joint With the jig clamped to your workbench, position the workpiece against the fixed fences. Align the marks, and cut the slot.

Beveled-edge joint Hold the part against the fixed fences with the beveled edge in the 3/sx3/e" groove. This offsets the slot toward the inside face.

90o corner joint For a 90" joint, place the workpiece against the square edge of the 90'/45' alignment guide. Position the guide to alignthe cut.

45o corner joint To cut a slot in a 45' mitered end, position the workpiece against the angled edge of the guide. Flip the guide to cut the other end.

Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008

the fences against the brackets, where shown,with the ends and bottoms flush. Drill mountingholes,and drive the screws. ftClamp the fence assemblies(C/D) \Jin position on the base/top (A/B), where shown on Drawings 1 and 2, with the front face of the fences flush with the back edge of the r/a"groove. To keep the fences aligned, clamp a scrap piece of 3/q"plywood as a straightedge to the front of the fences. Check that your biscuitjoiner fits in the openingbe-

tween the fences with the biscuit-joiner fence flush against the straightedge. If your joiner has a dust-collectionport, make sure you have sufficient clearance for the hose attachment.If needed,trim the fenceassemblies to fit the joiner, and then remove the joiner. clampedto the Twith the straightedge f fences,glue and clamp the fencesto the top (B). Drill mountingholesrhrough the brackets (C) into the base/top, and drive the screws.Removethe straightedge.
Glue and clamp the top (B), centered, to the base (A), using a plywood platen and cauls to evenly distribute the clamping pressure.


Y g
ia tt


1/.tt 4l^+..,^^1^^.

flat washer -.-- 1/+" #8 x 11/z'F.H. wood screw t/n"grooves s/o"dgep


th-2o x2r/q" loilel bolt ---




7oz" shank hole, countersunk r #8 x 11/z'F.H. wood screw |,.--r/uo" pilot hole s/q"deep


-----------___ /


#8 x 11/z' F.H. wood screws--4

7gz" shank hole,countersunk on bottom face


p"tr @"no r

r" grOOVe " deep fc

--* T"--*:*-** 3{e"





ClPosition the cleats (E) on the bot{Oto- of the base (A), where shown on Drawings I and 2. (The cleatsposition the jig againstthe front edgeof your workbench.)Drill mounting holes, and drive the screws. fiDraw t/2" radii on the corners of the Ybase/top and brackets (C). Cut and sandthe radii smooth. bit, drill l" holes I nUsing a Forstner I llJ(for hanging the jig) through the on Drawwhere dimensioned base/top, ing 2. Use a backerto preventtear-out.

Position your biscuit joiner on the jig, and clamp it to the straightedge.Then mark the centerpoints of the joiner-base mounting holes (shown at right).

Add the alignmentguide

{ From-/+" plywood, cut the guide (F) I to size. Then cut a V+" gtoove 3/ro" deep on both faces of the guide, where on Drawing 2. Now drill dimensioned a t/q"hole through the guide, centeredin the groove,where dimensioned. 6Mark the 45' angle on the guide. lBandsaw or jigsaw to the line, and sandthe edgesmooth. 4lTo form the long and short guide tJbars (G, H), plane or resaw a piece of t/qx2xl6" hardwood (we used maple) to W" thick to glide smoothly in the Vq" strip groovein the top (B). Rip a 7a"-wide from the piece. Then crosscuttwo 5Vz"bars from long bars and two 2V+"-long the piece.Glue the bars in place in the guide (F), leaving a l" spacebetween them,whereshownon Drawing 1. After the glue dries,trim the endsof the short guide bars flush with the angled edge of the guide using a fine-tooth saw.

{ Finish-sandthe base assemblyand guide,andremove the dust. I alignment Apply three coats of satin polyurethane, coats. sandingto 220 grit between fJTo mountyour biscuitjoiner, reclamp Athe straightedgeto the fences.Then positionthe joiner on the jig, and mark centerpointsfor the joiner-base mounting holes on the top (B), as shown in Photos B and C. (Due to the tight space with somejoiners, you may need to use a nail insteadof an awl to mark the centerpoints.)Drill shank holes through the and countersinkthem base/topassembly, on the bottom face. (The screws must not protrude from the base.)Fastenthe joiner to the assembly with suitablehardModel ware. (To mount our Porter-Cable 557 joiner, we drilled 3/ro"shank holes through the base assemblyand secured flathead machine the unit with 3Aex2Vz" and nuts.) flat washers screwsand3/te"

Finishup, and rig the iig

Note: If your biscuitjoiner doesnot have mounting holes, check if it has a removable baseplate attached with machine screws. If so, drill holes in the iig base assembly matching the baseplate hole pattern, and mount the unit using the samesize machinescrewsexceptI" longer to account for the thicknessof the base assembly.If your joiner does not have a removablebaseplate,you'll need to drill holes through the baseplate. r/q-20x2va" toiletbolt, {! Finally,installa l)V4" flat washer.and four-arm knob on the alignment guide, where shown on Drawing 1. Then slide the guide onto the base assembly,engaging the toiletbolt headin the T-groove,and tighten the knob. Now clamp the jig to your workbench,and plungeaway!lF


Gutting Diagram

B* top
C brackets D fences cleats

1/+' 18" 233h" TH

3/c" 3/t' 51/+u 8?/8" 2' 87/a' BP BP

2 2

G* longguidebars





1/+u 3/a' 51/z'

3/e" 21/+" H guide bars H* short -Parts instructions. the initially cut oversize. See

3/qx24x 48" Birchplywood G

1/a x 24 x 24" Temperedhardboard


3/qx31/2x24" (.7 bd.ft.) Hardwood *Planeor resawto the thickness List. listedin the Materials

Writtenby Owen Duvall Projectdesign:Jeff Mertz Roxanne LeMoine lllustrations:

plywood, TH-tempered key:BP-birch Materials hardboard, H-hardwood. (16), wood #8x1%" flathead screws Supplies: t/q" 1A-20x21/q" knob. flat washer, four-arm toilet bolt, router bit, flush{rim set, Blades andbits:Dado-blade bit. 1"Forstner


Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers


Hand Plane
After assembling this little gem,Voumay be temptedto place it in a displaycase.But go aheadand put it to work. This sturdy planewill do wonders in your shop.

First, let's make the parts

.f Cut a maple blank to ItAx2r/zxl4" I (enough material for two block planes,and long enoughto run through a thickness planer). If you don't have lzA"-thickmaple (8/4 stock),laminatethe blank from thinner piecesof maple.Preparean identicalsizedscrapblank. f)Plane both blanks to Itt/ro" thick, lkeepine all sidesof eachblank square to each other. Set aside the scrap blank for now. ff Crosscut the mapleblank to 6Vz"long, \land adherethe FrontCoreBlank, Rear Core Blank, and Wedge Block full-size patterns(Drawing 6) on page 60 to the

top face with spray adhesiveor rubber cement.Cut the core blanks (A and B), and the wedgeblock (C) to shapewith a bandsaw,staying just outside the lines. Sandthe parts to shapeusing a stationary sandingbelt or disc set absolutelysquare to its table. On your tablesaw,trim the wedgeblock (C) to 1/s" thick. Setit aside. /lFromt/q" padauk,cut two plane sides rt(D) to 2t/zx6t/2". Cut the Side fullsize pattern (Drawing 5) found on page 60 along its bottom edge. Next, adhere it to one of the side pieces,being careful to precisely align the bottom edge of the pattern with the bottom edge of the sidepiece. 57

ll eoov ASSEMBLY

Now, shape up the body

UsingDrawing 1 as a guide,position I parts A, B, and D on a flat surface, such as the top of your tablesaw.Place the parts. waxedpaperunderneath the front andrearcore and clamp fiGlue 4blanks (A and B) to the side(D) with the applied pattern.Be careful to align the part bottoms,and leavea t/tr,"space betweenthe front and rear core blanks. After the glue dries, glue and clamp the othersideto the coreblanks. flCut thescrap blankto 5" longandinsert (unglued) intotheopen throat \Jthis piece It shouldfit snugly, of the planeassembly. but loosely enough so you can remove asa chip breaker it later.The scrapserves for the cutting and drilling that follows. ,1| Next, cut the assembly to length, rtusing Drawing 5 as a guide.Cut the Sandthe curvedportionswith a bandsaw. edges,ends, and bottom with 100-grit Take care to keep the bottom abrasive. flat and square to the sides. {

A few final touches and you'llbe planing

Place a t/t" brt in your drill press, and I set its table squareto the bit. Drill the t/,+" hole at the location marked on Draw(SeePhoto A ing 5 through the assembly. holes,where shown atright.) Drill therTo+" on the pattern, through the assembly. Remove the pattern and scrap blank. f)Cut five pieces of /+"-diameterbrass &rod to 2j/rt" long. Near the ends of one of the brass rods, reduce the diarneterjust slightly (by about r,/o+") with light sanding. Insert this rod into the t/+"hole, withdraw it about t/2",apply epoxy to both rod ends, and reinsert. Apply epoxy to the remaining holes and insert the other brass rods. The rods should protrude evenly on both sides of the plane. Afier the epoxy cures, use a stationary sander to flush the ends of the five brass rods with both plane sides. '1/t"core-box bit in a router {lSet up a Vtable, as shown on Drawing 2. Place the bottom of the plane against the router fence with either end against the righr side stopblock. Lower the plane onto the { 58

the spinning bit, holdingit firmly against f-ence andtable, and slidethe planeto the left until it contactsthe other stopblock. Lift the planestraight up and off the bit. Rotatethe plane end for end and repeat to cut a rnatching this routingprocedure recess in the othersideof the plane fin-eer body,as shownon Drawing 3. ,{ Round the edges of the wedge -?block (C) and the plane sides (D) with a %" round-overbit, where indicated on Drawing 4. Sand smooththe youjust routedin the lasttwo steps. areas E F i n i s h-sand the enti re pl ane w i th of 150- and 220-gri t t l a s u ccessi on We appliedtwo coatsof Olyrnabrasives. pic InteriorAntiqueOil Finish.lP

The scrap blank preventsthe side stock from tearing out when you drill lhe'r/q" holes for the brass rods.

Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008


vtEW ElstDE

Fingerrecess,routedwith a 7a"core-boxbit t/e"deep

T"rja -;s'*" I


vrEW 4 exeloDED
A- rearcoreblan( 1i1/1d' 11/2" 37/a" B* frontcoreblank lttAd' 1t/''a" 2Vd' M


C* wedge block D sides

1s/d' 1%d' 31sAd' M

1/;' 2t/e" 6"

170+" holes,drilled REAR CORE BLANK

-Cut parts marked with an* oversized, Trim tofinished size according totheinstructions, Materials key:M-maple, P-padauk, t/a" Supplies: brass rod 12" long, epoxy, oilfinish. round-over BLADE

/+" brass rods 2slo" long

Pfane blade. Hockls/sx4r/2" blade, item 04835, $36.99. Woodcraft, 800-225-1153 toorder orgoto woodcraft.com, t/" padauk, Wood andbrassrod.Enough 1ttl0" maple, plane. /+"brass rod, and KitLP-15, scrap lo make one plus shipping. Schlabaugh and WoodworkSons $9.95 ing, call 800-346-9663, schsons.com.

Written by Bill KrierwithJim Downing Project Design: PaulHamler lllustrations: Kim Downing; LornaJohnson

1/q"hole, drilled after assembly

Fingerrecess No round-over

FRONTCORE BLANK t/a"round-overs, outsideedge only



170+" holes,drilledafterassembly



Waste is shaded.


XiiJ?sSll|:i\ \

t+\ tr
(2 needed)




after assembly



tz/a+" holes, drilled after assembly

/-l-\*-=\ / ^q ,%o"r)1"r, dritted


'irl8 ---+l



Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers



Height Gauge

Raiseyour cutting accuracyto new levels.

et the cutting depth of tablesaw blades easilyusingthis adjustable gauge. To ensure accuracy, we outfitted it with a steel rule. See Source belowfor the parts. Start by cutting the body to size from 34" maple,as shownon Drawing 1. Plow groove,sizedto fit your rule, a t3/tz"-deep in one face of the body, where shown. Next, set your dado blade to V+",and cut the combined rabbetandgroovein the body for the slidingbar.To do this, place the gaugebody on edge (ungroovedface againstthe fence).Cut the rabbet/groove in three passes, with the last one at Is/s", whereshownon Drawing 1a. Drill and countersinkthe screw hole. Then sandand finish the body. Usea copingsawor scrollsaw to shape the t/+"acrylic sliding bar to the dimensions shown.Createthe adjustment slot by drilling a pair of s/re"holes, where shown,and cutting out the material betweenthem.Smooththe edges of the slot and the outeredges of the bar usinga fine file. Buff the outer edgesif you want to make them super smooth. Now, scribe a cursor line on the back face, where shown, using the method describedin Photo A, page 6. Attach the steelrule in the grooveusing double-faced tape. Placethe bottom end of the rule t/+"from the bottom of the body.Then install the slidingbar. To usethe gauge, setthe cursorline to the desiredheight. Hold the sliding bar in its groovewhile adjusting the gaugeto keep the bar squarewith the base.Place the body on the tablesaw top besidethe blade,as shown in the photo, and raise the bladeto setthe height.?
lllustrations : o x a n n eL e M o i n e R

@ roe vrEW -T

1/qx1"F.H. machine screw

vrEW I exeloDED



t/q"hole, countersunk on back side

1/q" tlal washer



wd\ ET\


Four-arm knob wilh t/q"insert

' 5/6"

Hardware. Stainless rule steel no. 06K20.06, $1.95; plastic 1t/2" four-atm (t/+-20 knob threads) no.00M55.30 each. Call Lee Valley at800-871-8158, orgoto $1.90 leevalley.com. woodmagazine.com

Sliding bar


l/q x 21/ax 7" clear acrvlic


but $imple Effective

Marking Gauge
ln a short evenitrg, you can turn a few scraps of wood into an accurate,easy-touse layouttool.
a't tough to beat a marking gaugefor l layoutlines. crisp,repeatable I creating of a beam,a sliding fence I Consisting I held in placeby a small wedge,and a scribingpoint, this time-tested tool sets up quickly. (To learn how to use it, see "Get More From Your Marking Gauge," opposite.) To build one, start by cutting the beam to the size shown on Drawing 1. Then, to create the thumbnail profile on one edge,chuck a Vz"round-overbit in your table-mountedrouter, and rout the parfial round-overusingjust a portion of the bit. Now drill a hole near one end to receivea 6d finish nail. Insert the nail, allowing the point to project t/s".Cut off the head leaving %" exposed on that end, as well. Sharpenboth ends to create the scribingpin. Make the wedgeby tracing the full-size pattern (Drawing 1b) onto a piece of s/ex4x2" stock, running the wood's grain lengthwise. (An oversizepieceis saferto hanBandsawthe dle asyou shape the wedge.) wedgeto shape,and then sand it smooth so it slideseasily againstthe beam and along the inside edgeof the fence. To createthe fence,first cut it to shape using Drawing 1a as a guide.Next, bore a 3/a"hole through the fence where di62 mensioned. Using chisels,a flat file, and a round file, expandthe hole, and shape it into an opening that fits the beam and wedge.Note that one side of the opening tapersto matchthe wedge(Drawing 1b). Be sure to test-fit the beam and wedge periodicallyas you shape the opening. To protectthe marking gauge,top it off with a coupleof coatsof oil finish. ?

vrEW I exeroDED

PATTERN FULL-srzE @ rerucE



./"." t> ...
1/z" parlial rouno-over



\ t\ t

* )



Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2008

More Get From Your

Marking Gauge
hen it comes to marking cutlines and laying out joints, it's hard to beat the simplicity and accuracy of a marking gauge. To uncover the fundamentals of m4rking gauge setup and use, we consulted renowned master craftsman Frank Klausz. Here's how Frank gets the most from his favorite layout tool.

What a marking gauge can do for you

A marking gauge provides a fast and accurateway to mark lines parallel to the edgeof a workpiece, either with the grain or acrossit. A marking gauge'sadvantage over a pencil is that its pin, which Frank sharpens to a knife edge,producesa very fine mark that does not broaden, and it scores the workpiece for chiseling and saw cuts (preventing splintering). Here are a number of ways you can use one: . Mark the centerof boardsfor resawing. . Mark stock edgesfor joining. . Lay out lines for cutting joints, such as dovetail or mortise and tenon.

along the beam to set the required marking distance to the pin. A locking device, such as a thumbscrew or wedge, secures the fence to the beam at the set position. Somegaugeshavea removable marking pin, which makes it easy to sharpen the pin or replaceit. Also. the beams of some gaugesare ruled to allow for direct setting of the marking dimensionwithout the needfor measuring. One type of marking gauge, a mortising gauge (photo above), has a single marking pin for general layout and another pair of pins on the opposite side of the beamfor easymortiselayout.Onepin is fixed and the other slidesin the beam to set the mortise width.

. Proiection: For bestcontrol, adjustthe pin so it projectsVra"from the beam. . Angle: Because a gauge works best when you pull it toward you, angle the point about 5o away from the fence, as shownon Drawing 1b.The angledpin will draw the fence againstthe edge of the stock when marking.


FENCE Knifeedge angled away from fence

Let's get to the point

For a marking gauge to work correctly, Frank notes, you need to focus your attention on its smallest part-the marking pin-and make sureit hasthe correct projection,and angle. shape, . Shape: Most new marking pins havea conical point, which will tear wood fibers rather than slice through them. To prevent this, sharpenthe pin to a knife edge,as shownon Drawing 1a.


l l l gauge ot
Jl I

I lP'tt

Tips for using a gauge

Grindor file tip to a knife edge and buff smooth.

The basic marking gaugeconsistsof four parts: an 8- to l2"-long beam, afence,a fencelocking device,and a marking pin, as shownon Drawing 1. The fenceslides

vtEW ll exeloDED
BEAM 8-12"long





. Because the fencefollows the stock's edges,make sure they are straight and smooth for accuratemarking. . After securing the fence, recheck the settingto be sureit hasn'tchanged. Practice marking on scrap first to verify the setting. . Position the fence againstthe stock's edge,and apply light pressureto keep it flush. Rotatethe beam so the pin is at an angle to the stock (as in the photo above), then lightly drag the gauge to make your mark. i

1 116"

FrankKlausz, of Pluckemin, N.J.,worksout of his unpretentiously named "Frank'sCabinet Shop."



Heirloom Persuader

Dead-Blow Mallet
hether coaxing together the closely fitted dovetails of a drawer,finger joints of a box, joints of or mortise-and-tenon a cabinetdoor, you'll appreciate the concentrated no-rebound striking power of this handsome mallet. Filled with about 5 ouncesof looseleadshotand facedwith pads,it packsa wallop withthick leather out leaving a mark. You can make the mallet from shopscraps, or seeSources for the necessary supplies.

Why you need a dead-blow mallet

impactwithout The head of this malletcontainsloose lead shot for controlled As the malletstrikesthe work surface, the shot movesforwardimbounce-back. mediately and solidlytransmit the force. behindthe blowto dampenthe rebound It'sthe idealtoolfor assembling fittingworkpieces. And because it puts two tightly moreweightbehinda shortswing,a dead-blow malletworksgreatin closequarters. go to w oodmagazi ne.com/han dt ools. T o s e e morehandtool si n thi sseri es,

Make a laminatedhandle
For the handle sides (A), cut two I t/sxIt/qxlg" morado blanks. (For an explanationof our wood choices,seethe sidebarfar right.) Then for the handle core(B),headcapandbase(C),faces(D), andfiller (E) cut oneVzx3x12" ashblank. piece for From this blank, cut a lrAxSs/s" the core and set the rest aside.Glue and ciamp the core betweenthe sides,keeping the edges and one end flush. f)Joint one edge of the handle (A/B) Znusn and sqriareto the face and rip it to lsAz" wide. Then joint /zz" from the sawn edge for a finished width of 1%".Make a copy of the Handle pattern (Drawing 4) on page 67. Adhereit to the handlewith sprayadhesive, where shown on Drawing 1. Install a zA" dado blade in your tablesaw, and cut IVz"rabbets%" deep, where shown on the pattern. Now with the pattern facing up, bandsawand sandthe handleto shape. QChuck a /s" round-overbit into your tJtable-mounted router,attachan auxiliary extensionto the miter gauge,and finish rounding the end of the handle,as shownin Photo A. Then movethe routertable fenceawayfrom the bit and rout the { 64

handle edges,where shown on the pattern, and as shownin Photos B and C in the sidebar, oppositeaboveright.

Retrieve the t/2"-thickash, and cut a I t/qxg" blank for the cap and base(C). Make a copy of the Cap and Base patterns (Drawing 5), adherethem to the blank with spray adhesive, and form the end rabbets,as shown in Photo D. Then flip the blank over and cut the dadoesin the tops of the parts. Now cut the parts from the waste, and bandsawand sand the curved edges. For filling the head with lead shot after the mallet is assembled, drill a s/rc" hole in the cap, centered in the dado,whereshownon Drawing 2. f)For the faces (D) and filler (E), lcut three t/z.xlVs"pieces from the t/2"-thick ash. the cheeks(F), planea3/qxlt/zxl2" QFor thick. Lay out the 9morado blank to s/e" 4"-long cheeksat each end of the blank \tla"dadoes andthecentered W' deep, where {

Form the head parts

shownon Drawing 2. Chuck a Vq"roundrouter and over bit in your table-mounted rout the outsideedgesof the blank. Now cut the dadoes,checkthe fit of the handle, the parts from the blank. and then crosscut

To accommodate the handle offset, place a spacer betweenthe handle and the miter-gaugeextension,and round over the end.

Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers

Safe freehand routing with a starter pin

Whenthe shapeof a part,suchas the mallet prevents you fromsupporting handle, it withthe router-table fencewhilerouting, you depend on the bit pilotbearing to guidethe piece. But you'llhaveto routawaysome material before the partcontacts thebearing, and the graband pullthe partfrom bit can suddenly your grasp.To prevent this, some router-table inserts are equipped withstarterpins,or you can simplyforma pointon a pieceof stockand clamp it to the routertable,as shownat right. Either way,beforeengaging the bit,placethe partfirmlyagainst the pin or point,as shownin PhotoB. Then pivotthe parton the starterpin or pointand easeit intothe bit untilit contacts the pilotbearing, as shownin PhotoC. Now routalongthe part length.

Handfe held / @ away from the bit



lr "/:;-t
,/2 3/a"

I 1t/2" rabbels t/e" deep

vtEW B exeloDED
t/+"round-overs Forma t/ro" dome on the faces afterassembly.

To cut the end rabbets, back the cuts with a miter-gaugeextension. Position the blank for the cap and base (C) with a stopblock, and cut the rabbets.

^rl o \

Choosincr wood for your rnallet


1tle"dado t/q" deep

s/ro"hole, centered


(#7Vz) shot 3Aa x2 x 2" leather trimmedflushwith the mallethead afterassembly

Tropicalhardwoods,because of their stability and density,have beenfavoredby toolmakers for generations.Rosewood,long a favorite,meets requirements with the addedad3/8" round-overs these utilitarian vantage of unsurpassed beauty. But withgenuine rosewoodlogged nearlyto extinction, hardwood dealers substitute otherlook-alike tropical species. For outsidepartsof this malletwe used morado, sometimes calledBolivian rosewood. For the core of the handleand head,we chose ash.Baseball batsand hammer handles traditionally use wood speciessuch as hickoryand ash, knownfor their resilience. A handleas short as this one doesn'trequiremuch resilience, but the ash contrasts nicelywith the moradofor a pleasing appearancethat matchesother tools in the Collector's Series. lf youwish,youcanconstruct your malletfrom any contrasting hardwood scraps. 65


Insert a t/2"-thickspacer between the handle sides (A).Apply glue to the dado in one cheek (F),then glue and clamp it to the handle.

Applyglueto the baseandcap (C)and the faces(D),position them,andseatthe facesin the baseand cap rabbets.

Apply glue to the base and cap (C),faces (D), and side (A). With the base, cap, and faces seated,clamp the cheek (F) in place.

Assembleand applyfinish
Glue and clamp the headparts to the I handle,as shownin Photos E, F, and G. With the glue dry, file and sanda t/re" dome on the faces of the mallet head, whereshownon Drawing 3. t)With the mallet upright, use a funnel Ato fill the head with .095"-diameter (#7Vr)lead shot. While filling the head, tap the side to settle the shot so you can pour in as much as possible. Then glue the filler (E) in place, where shown on Drawing 2. Sandthe filler to match the curve of the cap (C). ffCut two 2x2" pieces of %0"-thick \Jleather for face pads. Sandthe rough {

back of the leather with 80-grit sandpaper, gettingit as smoothaspossible. Then useordinary woodworkingglue to adhere the pads to the slightly domed mallet faces.as describedand shown below in the Shop Tip. ,1t|With the glue dry, use a utility knife rfto trim the leatherflush with the mallet head. Then finish-sand the mallet, smoothingthe edgesof the leatherpads as you sand.Apply a clear finish to the mallet, including the edgesand facesof the leatherpads.(We appliedthree coats of Minwax Antique Oil Finish.) Now show off the newestaddition to your fine tool collectionto your friends.dF




3/tax2x2" leather trimmed

flushwith the mallethead afterassembly

Materials List

Foarn pads ensure a croodbond on sliitrtty curved iurfaces

To applyeven pressure when gluingthe leatherpads to the domed malletfaces,line your benchvise jaws with rigid-foam insulation. Spreadglue on the mallet pads.Position facesand applythe oversize leather the malletand pads betweenthe foam. Then tightenthe vise,slightlycrushing the foam to make it conformto the domedsurfaces.
C* cap and base D* faces E* filler F* cheeks




1/2" 1/2" s/au

1/2" 3/a, 1t/zu

11/a' 11/a'


Gutting Diagram

-Parts initially cutoversize. See theinstructions. Materials key:M-morado, A-ash. Supplies: Spray adhesive. t/a" Blades andbits:Stack round-over dado set,/s" and router bits.

3/qx31/z x 24" Morado(.7 bd. tt.) *Planeor resawto the thicknesses listedin the Materials List. planed Wood andsupplies. Morado ash tothickness and 3Aax2x4" piece fortheparts listed above, ofleather, 5 oz. (#7r/z\lead of.095" shot. Kitno. W165-M, $16.00. Heritage Building Specialties. Call 800-524-4184, or gotoheritagewood.com. (#71/z) Leadshot..095' lead no.9030K23, shot $32.02 plus package. fora 5-lb. S&H McMaster-Carr. Call 609-223-4200, orgotomcmaster.com. You may also gun check local dealers who carry reloading supplies.

Writtenby Jan Svec with Kevin Boyle Projectdesign:Jeff Mertz lllustrations : o x a n n eL e M o i n e :L o r n a J o h n s o n R 3/qx31/z x 12" Ash (.3 bd. ft.)


Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008


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Marking Knife
For accurate layout, nothing beats a crisp scribed line.

ith the flat back of its blade you can againsta straightedge, use this marking knife to lay down cutlines with pinpoint When not in use,a hiddenmagaccuracy. net keepsthe bladesheathsafelyin place. This fine tool is one you'll be pleased to use and proud to show. For the special materialsneededto make this markine knife, seeSource on the next page.

Make a laminatedblank
From a -'1AxIxI2" piece of stock (we I used maple), resaw and plane a 3/te"thick piece for the core (A). Check the thickness against the %o"-thick tool{

steelbar you will use for the blade.Then cut the core to the size listed on the Materials List. Set asidethe remaining piece for the accent strip (C). Make a copy of the Core patternon Drawing 2, and adhereit to the part with sprayadhesive.Use a Forstnerbit to drill a t/q"hole, whereshown,andthenscrollsaw theknife blade cutout. (The V+"semicircle makes room for excessepoxy when mounting the knife blade.)Check the width of the slot with the /a"-wide tool-steelbar. 4)From a t/+xlxl2" piece of stock (we Zused, bubinga),resawand plane a Vq"thick piece for the top and bottom laminations(B). Then cut the laminationsto

Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers


To ensureperfectlymatched grainfrom gluethe knifeup as a handle to sheath, singleblank,andthencut it intotwo pieces.

size.Use a Forstner bit to drill a:/s" hole Vs"deepfor the magnetin the top lamination,wheredimensioned on Drawing 1, below. Make sure the magnet does not protrudebeyondthe surface. fllnstall a zero-clearanceinsert in tJyour tablesaw,and cut a 3/ra"groove I/a" deepcentered in the top lamination (B) for the accentstrip (C), as shownin

Photo A. Checkthe fit of the 3/t o"-thick stock left from making the core (A). Then rip a shz"-wide strip from the edge of the leftovet 3/te" stock, and glue and clamp it in the groove. Sand the strip flush. AF;p*y the magnet the 3/e"hole in Tin the top lamination (B), and let it cure. Remove any excess epoxy with a chisel. To keep track of the magnet end, make a mark over Cut a %e"groove 7e"deep in the top lamination (B) in two passes. the magnet on the top Turn the part end-for-end between passes to center the cut. surfaceof the lamination. Now spreadglue sparingly on both faces of the core (A), keeping the glue away from the edge of A. core Vta" 1u 55/e' M the centercutout.Clamp the core and the top and bottom top and bottom laminations(B) together, -"' D* 1/ 1/4" 1u Ss/au B b' fifriiiiiions keepingthe edgesand endsflush.
C" accent strip
1/8, 3/16,, Ss/a" M

Shapeand finish the knife

Make a copy of the Side View patI tern on Drawing 2, and adhereit to the edge of the laminated blank, orienting the sheathend of the patternwith the magnetend of the blank. Use a s/e"-diameter sandingdrum and stopblockto form the finger recesses, as shownin Photo B. Removethe pattern. {

-Parts initially cutoversize. See theinstructions. Materials key:M-maple, B-bubinga. Supplies: Spray adhesive, epoxy. r/q" Bitsandaccessories'. and %"Forstner bits, t/+" round-over router bit, %"-diameter sandinq drum.

t/e" Hardware kit. %' rare-earth magnet thick, %ox7sx6" plus barofW-1 tool steel. Kitno.300-BLD, S&H. $2.75 Add foreach additional kit.Schlabaugh and Sons, $2.50 72014th St.,Kalona, lA 52247. Call 800-346-9663, orgotoschsons,com. piece Wood kit.One %ox1x12" of t/+x1x12" piece maple andone of plus bubinga, kitno. LP-Z S&H. $3.50 Schlabaugh and Sons, see above.


vtEW I exeloDED



W-1 toolsteel

-3/6" rare-earth magnet t/s"thick

Formorehomemade handtoolsvisit: woodmagazine.com/handtools

Finger recess. !


Prevent chipping in critical cuts

the markingknife When separating sheathfrom the handle,you get only one chance to make a perfect cut. to hide, Chip-outwill be impossible success,installa fineTo guarantee tooth blade and a zero-clearance insert in your tablesaw.Then, to back the cut, attach an extension to the miter gauge. Wrap masking tape around the blank centered2" from the magnetend, and mark the cutline.Then to keep the crosscut perfectlysquare,wrap maskingtape around the blank near both ends. Align the cutlinewith the blade and to to the extension clampa stopblock prevent during the blankfromshifting tape to the cut. Apply double-faced and stickthe blankto it. the extension Now makethe cut, as shownbelow.

fenceso Adjusta notchedscrapwood 1/ta" then sand of the drum protrudes, the fingerrecesses. f)Make a copy of the Top View patZrcrn bn Drawing 2, and adhereit to the laminatedblank with sprayadhesive. Saw and sand the handle edge profiles, and sandthe end arcs.Removethe pattern. {lChuck a W" round-over bit in your tJtable-mounted router,and rout all the edges. Finish-sandthe laminatedblank. the sheathfrom the hanATo separate 'ldle. cut the blank where indicatedon the Top View pattern (Drawing 2). To preventchipping when cutting the blank, seethe shop Tip at right. 3/tox3/ex6" bar of grade W-l fFrom a tJtool steel.make a blade.as instructed on page 71. Clamp the blade in a vise beand cut it tween two piecesof scrapwood, Wrap maskto 3Vz"long with a hacksaw. ing tapearoundthe bladeto mark the lVz" length that will protrudefrom the handle. Install the blade in the handle.as shown in Photos C and D. Removeany excess epoxy with acetone.

Using a thin stick, apply a small amount of epoxy to the inside of the handle opening.

on a scrapblock, Withthe bladepointbearing pushthe handledownto the masking tape. AApply a clear finish. (We wiped on \lthree coats of Watco Natural Danish Oil Finish, following the instructionson the can.) With the finish dry, align the accent strip, and slide the sheath onto the blade..F
Writtenby Jan Svec with Chuck Hedlund Projectdesign:Jeff Mertz Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson lllustration:

E rut-t--sze

s/0" maple



.)1 /^tl



r/+" bubinga


SHEATH Cut hereafterassembly and routinground-overs. , I




Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers


Making A Blade
Withthe ri with right steel,you can makea keen,durablebladein your own shop.
aking a custom blade for a hand tool, such as the marking knife on page 6B, might seem out of reach, until you discover grade W-1 tool steel. (SeeSource below.) You can cut this metal with a hacksaw,shapeit with a grinder, and then harden the cutting edgeby heating it with a propane torch and quenching it in cold water. (First heat the steelto a red glow, and then keep it at a red glow for two minutes for each Vre"of thickness.)That's it! Using a 3/tox3/sx6" bar of W-l tool steel for the marking knife blade, here'show to shapeand sharpenthe blade shown in the drawing, below lrft. S


To grind the point, mark 60' guidelines on your grinder tool rest, and position it perpendicular to a 100-grit grinding wheel. Mark a centerline on the too!-steel bar with an awl. Grind the V point, cooling the bar with water as needed.

To grind the bevels, tilt the tool rest to a 45'angle, and start grinding one bevel. Check the angle with a protractor, and adjust the tool rest as necessary. Then grind bevels on both sides of the point, forming sharp edges.

Usinga propanetorch, hoatebout 1%"ot lho gFund end of the bar, mrylng lhe flame back and forth untll lhe entlre 1/." length glows ld. NovY continuelo heat the stel, keeplng ll glowing rd lor sir minutes,

After leeplng the tlp glowing rd lor the nded tlme, lmmediatsly plunge the bar in cold wrter. Then run the steel under cold uraGr until it is cool enough to handls. The tip is now hardenedand till hold an edge.

Placing220-grtt,then 320-grit,and fina y OO-gdt weftry sampaper on a n* surtace,_ honethe ben eb, and polish th @, botfom; and sld6s ot the bar.Euff to a Uf-gtrtnnistr with a buffrng s'hesl and Tripoli c;mpound.


Iod3h|.Wa|erhad8ninggnadeW.1too|sbg|a/ai|ab|einrds,ialb8rs,andEuaresin3'|engths.PIic8fiom$1.32b$170.Toviswa||sizsandpdc typelv.1bo|gtee|inlheseaIchwind0,'Forthmaddngknifeonpage68,y0ucanodga946,t'{r36'l|atbaIo'gradMbo|slee|no.8895K call McMaslr-Can at609-223-4200.



Sanding Block
lf evera sandingblock was a work of art, this is it. Suppleto the touch and easyon the eyes,it will serveyou well for manyyears to come.
his idea comes from WOODa magazine reader M.C. "Morrie" Patten of Mesa, Arizona, who longenough his laminations makes to yield at leasttwo sandingblocks at a to machine, time. That way,they'reeasier and he hasseveralto presentto his woodworking buddies.We were so impressed with Morrie's idea, we decidedto make a couple of these beautiesfor our own shop,and sharehis ideawith you.

a pieceof 3A"maple Rip and crosscut long, enoughfor two bases I to 2t/+x10" (A). Now,joint, resaw, the or hand-plane mapleto s/s" thickness. f)Rip two strips of walnut t/q" thick Efrom the edge of a piece of 3A"stock. Crosscut eachto 10" for the sides(B). {tGlue and clamp one walnut strip to tJeach edgeof the maplebase,with the bottom edgesflush. Scrapeoff any glue squeeze-out. ;f Crosscut two 4t/2"-longbases from rttne iamrnauon. {

Makingthe sanding block 6ases

to a finthe walnuttop andbottompieces each.Now,joint or of Vq" ishedthickness plane the edgesuntil the palm grip fits snugly between the protruding walnut sidesof the base.(Later, you'll sand the palm grip to finishedwidth.) f Crosscut the palm-grip lamination t.Jinto two 4t/2"lengths.

The palm grips come next

3/+" maple { Startby cuttingonepieceof I (C) and one pieceof t/q"walnut (D) to 2t/+x10"long. Using a bandsawor tablejust saw,resawthe walnutinto two pieces under7s"thick each. the f)Glue andclampthe maplebetween I two piecesof walnut, making sure align exactly. that all edges
Remove the clamps, and scrape off any excess glue. Then, joint or plane

Drillinq the bolt and wing riut holes

Mark diagonalson the top of each and poI palm grip to locateits center, sition the palm grip in the basewith the endsflush.Clamp the palm grip andbase to your drill-presstable, and drill a /rs" guide hole through both pieces,[Photo Al. (For this and the following steps,we machinedboth sandingblock piecesat once.) {
Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008


fSeparate the two pieces,and, using a Eflat-bortomed bit, drill a lVq,'holeVz', deep into the top of the palm grip, centeredover the guide hole. (SeeDrawings 1 and 2 for hole size details.)Then, drill and counterborea 3/q"hole 3/t', deep cen_ tered over the guide hole on the bottom sideof the base. t/+"hole through the baseand {lDrill a Va s/o" hole through the palm grip, centering both holes on the guide hole. Countersink the Vq"hole on the bottom sideof the base. lllPlane or sand Vro" off each side (not '?the ends)of the palm grip for a 2Va, finishedwidth. f,Clamp the base, bottom up, in a t/woodworker's vise. Thread a Vqxlv2,, machine screw through the hole, and tighten the palm grip to the base with a wing nut. Epoxy the screw in the hole in the base.Cut a 3/+" mapleplug, and epoxy it over the headof the screw. ftDetach the base from rhe palm grip, t/and sandthe plug flush with the base. Sandthe basesmooth. router with a TFit your table-mounted I Vz" round-over bit, and rout the top edgesof the palm grip. Finally, sandthe palm grip to fit comfortablyin your hand. flYou may want to cut and glue a piece \Jof felt to the bottom of one or all of the sanding blocks for sanding pieces with slight contours. Trim the edges of the felt flush with the base.

vtEW ll exeloDED
t/+"wing nul

PALMGRIP rA" fenderwasher

1t/q" hole 1/2"deep

t/2"round-overs Sandcorners smooth.


Fit a fender washerin the hole in the I palm grip. Then, apply the finish of your choiceto the baseand palm grip. DTo use,slip rhepalm grip overif,"bolt f.on the base,and just start the wing nut. Quarter a standardsheetof sandpa_ per, and tuck the sides under the palm grip. Now, tighten the wing nut to hold the sandpaper firmly in position.dl {
Writtenby Marlen Kemmet ProjectDesign:M.C.,,Morrie" patten lllustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson Photographs: Bob Calmer woodmagazine.com

sEcloN @ eruo

base B* sides grip C* palm grip D* palm

Y4' Vt" lAu Vc' 2yB" 41/2' 41/2" W M W 2 2

tA1" 9ap

21/e" 41/2'

.Parts initially cutoversize. See instructions. Materials keylM-maple, W-walnut. r/qxlyz" Supplies: tlalhead machine screw with fender washer and wing nut, epoxy, (optional), felt finish.

3/q"hole s/e"deep filled with a 3/q"-diam. maple plug


Centerfinderl Trammel
Here'sone simplejig that does the work of two. Use it to locatethe center of round stock, or use the increment holesto mark differentsizes of circlesand arcs.
utthe trammelbody to the sizeand shapeshown on Drawing 1 from 32"stock.Using a hacksaw, crosscut a piece of %x1" aluminum bar stock to 12" in length for the blade. Mark the screw-hole centerpoints and increment hole centerpointson the blade, where dimensioned on Drawing 1a. Using your drill press,drill three countersunk screw holes through the blade. Then drill the increment holes and the pivothole. Drilling throughthealuminum will create rough surfaces,so sand the aluminum smooth with 220-grit sandpaper. Use a squareto position the blade perpendicular to the end of the body at the -apex of the V-shapednotch. Using the screw holes in the blade as guides, drill pilot holesinto the wood body. Screwthe two piecestogether.

Usingthe tool
To find the centerof round stock,suchas the bowl blank shown above, rotate the body of the tool around the diameter of the stock and mark a pair of roughly perpendicularintersectinglines as shown. The intersectionmarks the centerpoint. To use as a trammel, fit an awl, nail, or other pointed object through the pivot hole in the body and blade.Using one of the previouslydrilled incrementholesin the bar, rotate the tool around the trammel pivot point to mark a circle or arc, as shown at rigfu. tl
Projectdesign:Bob Settich



vrEW I exeloDED
7ez" shankhole, countersunk

aluminum bar t/a"pivot holes pilot Tsz"

3/q" '/16

increment holes


Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2006



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First,an overview of what we did
To best show you the improvementsto Mark's shop, here's a diagram of the floor plan and photosthat say it all. Use the projectdrawingsshownthroughoutto build the key components.


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2: MrrERsAw woRI{ srf,,TroN More rhan 32


l: vunsA-cnB sYsrEM

This customizablecabinet system, dubbed the "Versa-cab" (see page 78lor the plan), works as a wall or base cabinet. The cabinet's 1S%"-deep top serves as a shelf for tool cases.

square feet of countertop, not including the mitersaw platform, were added to Mark's shop. As you can see from the photos, none of the space, either above or below the countertop, is wasted. Most mitersaws benefit when they have a permanent home with plenty of work support on either side. Our mitersaw platform, supported by neighboring Versa-cab base cabinets, is deceptivelysimple to build and effective in function. (See page 79tor the plan.)

Mobile belVdisc sander Versa-cab Mobile


3: snnErcooDsRAcr{

A long but shallow rack allows Mark to store full-sizedand partial sheet goods in spite of the shop's limited ceiling height of 7' 9". (See page 80tor the plan.) lt includes a hinged containment stretcher for easy material removal. We even threw in extra storage for dowel rods that come in the form of two spaced sections of heavy-dutycarpet tubing.

Sheet-goods rack


Mobite tool cabinet

Lumber rack Mobilerouter table under bench

Mobile bandsaw

Mobiletool cabinet underbench Drill press MOBITE BASESThree HTC mobile bases added to the larger power tools significantly improved Mark's workshop mobility. htcproductsinc.com or call 800-624-2027 76 Overhead door

Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008


principles of 5 Ba_sig worksh6p organization

Mobility-This makesa small shop work like a large one. To create mobility,mobile bases were added to Mark'stablesaw, 8" jointer,and 14" bandsaw.(The router,belt/discsander,and planeralready hadwheels.) Whenthe countertops and mitersaw station alongone wallwereadded,resulting recesses servedto house Mark'slargejointerand roll-around cabinets. After two days,his shop had only threewheelless tools (the workbench, mitersaw station, and drillpress).


4 : wALL cr,BrNEr/opEN sHELvEs

Two simple wall cabinets perched above the new countertops make a huge differencein the small shop's available storage space. Becausesurface mounted conduit prevented us from mounting the cabinets together,we used the opportunity to add adjustable shelving between the two. As a final touch, shop brushes find a handy home on the cabinet side. (See page 8l lor construction details.)

Flexibility-Needs changefrom projectto projectand with each new tool purchase.The "Versa-cab"(see the prqviouspage) offersthe maximum in flexibility. Bothshelves and drawers can be quicklyrelocated to meetchanging storageneeds.The Triton lumber rack system (below /eff) has movablearms. The large tool recessin the corneraccommodates either Mark'smobile jointeror his mobile tablesaw. Accessibility-Organization means litile if you can't get to thingseasily. To createaccessibility, we openedup Mark'sfloor spaceby creating sensible homesfor allthe largetools.(Seethe shop diagram oppositebelow.)The open floor space dramatically improves providing workflow, obstruction-free accessto all partsof Mark'sshop. Durability-There'sno pointin doingthe workif it'snot goingto last.Forthe shop'sworksurfaces, birchplywood was usedwith 3/a'MDF hardwood edgestrips;forthe cabinetry, withheavy-duty hardware. Mobile bases, made of welded steel for maximum strengthand durability, made movinglarge,heavytools easy. For protection of the bare wood surfacesof Mark'scountertops and cabinets, he'llneedto applyat leasttwo coatsof oil-based polyurethane to ensurelasting material stability. Affordability-ln additionto makingsure that the shop components last,purchasing them at a low or reasonable pricealso provedimportant. (See"Wherethe moneywent"on page g/.) In Mark'sshop,all the materials for the cabinetry and countertop costlessthan$440for fivecabinets, multiple drawers and shelving, and more than 32 squarefeet of countertop. Lessthan g40 was spenton the plywoodholder.

IT.U,RGE POWER TOOL RECESSLeaving space underneath the countertops allowed us to store and protect Mark's g,' jointer.The space is large enough to alternateas a temporary home for the tablesaw as well.


LUIVIBERR.H,CK Triton's sturdy lumber rack, mounted above the countertop, leaves Mark plenty of room for .,current project" material and those special boards set aside for an heirfoom to come. (rockler.com or call gOO-279-4441) woodmagazine.com


'" I

For a grid and tooltemplates to begin planning your shop, see w o o dm a g a z n i e.com/shoplayout.


I vensA-cAB

t/a"groove7e"deep 3/q" trom back edge

e/q"rabbel s/a"deep

7 Yz"

Proiect I: "Versa-cab" tool cabinet system

This simple cabinetdesign,Drawing 1, offers the ultimate in versatility, hence the name. It accommodates multiple drawers. shelves.or vertical dividersor a mix of all three. Placeit vertically as a base cabinet on the floor or mount it vertically or horizontally on the wall. Becausethe dividers lay loosely in their slots, the layout of each cabinet can be quickly reconfigured to meet changing needs.The cabinetsize makesoptimum use of a sheet of medium-densityfiberboard (MDF), and the spacing between the dividers proves ideal for mediumsize drawersand many smallertools,tool cases, and other items. Overall, the cabinet measures(when vertical) 153/4"deep, 13V4"wide, and 38V4" high. At its most basic,it hasthree of lltAxlllAxl4zA". equal compartments with dividers inThe individual spaces, stalled. are33/q" wide.


41/z' 81/2"

t/+"dadoes 1/4"deep




7+"dadoes Te"deep

s/q" rabbel 7e" deep


t/q" gloove 7e" deep thu.from bottom edge


th" gtoove 7e" deep 3/q"trom back edge

A B C D sides
3/q' 153/q' 381/+" MDF 2

When routing the Vq" wide, 3/e"deep groovesfor the cabinetbacksand drawer bottoms,make certain the Vq"hardboard looselyinto the grooves.If fits somewhat the fit is too tight, the remaining lip may split awayfrom the MDF. As you assemble the cabinet carcaseand the drawer boxes, glue the Vc" hardboard into the groovesfor extra strength. We found that onceall the parts are cut you havea finand routed,and assuming ish nailer, each cabinet, including three in about drawerboxes,can be assembled an hour.

topandbottom 3/q' 153/q"121/z' MDF 2 dividers 3/q' 143A"121/2'MDF 2 center

1/q, 121/2, 371/2' HB 1/q" 123Aa"143/q" HB
3/4tt 311/16tt1178" 3/4tt311/16tt 14' MDF MDF

back E partitions drawer front E* ' andback sides G* drawer

1 6
2 2

H* drawer bottomsth' 107/e" 14' HB 1 - Quantity forone drawer. fiberboard, Materials key; MDF-medium-density HB-hardboard.

Assemble the Versa-cabby gluing and fitting the center dividers (C) and the cabinet back (D) into the sides (A). Glue and nail the dividers and cabinet ends, square the cabinet,and then nailthrough the back into the dividers to stiffen the cabinet. 78

For wall installation,add a horizontalcleat inside the cabinet and to its back securing it to the sides. Then drive screws through the cleat and back and into the wall studs. To increase the versatility of the partitions, add a dowel for storing circular saw blades of 10" or less.
Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2008

woRKsrATtoN @ nltrrensAw

#8 x 11/2" F.H.wood screw


Note: *Depending on the hightof mitersaw lable,3t/+" lo 4".

# B x 1 1 / z 'F . H . wood screw

6d finishnail

#8x11/q"F.H. wood screw

(6d finishnail


_ 6d finishnail





3/2" \-


I 'tr"F

As base cabinets supporting the mitersaw work station, the flexible Versa-cabs accommodate multiple drawers, shelves, and vertical dividers. The division of space within the cabinets allows for storage of smaller tools and other items. The space behind the cabinets provides room to run the dust collector hose out of the way and to the jointer. BASE

3/qu 27'

72' 72' 1 2 1

front edging s/qu 2Y4' C D E " Ft '' side edging wallcleat mitersaw ;iatfb;ni' PW::Y suppons

PO 3/+' 2Y4" 273/q" PO 3/q" 2Y4" 72' PO

e %u 26" 26y4' Bp

gt/r" 26t/^, ' "/r' G platform edging 3/q" 2y4" 271/z' PO H* topcleats 11/2" 2" 15o/+' P f* J*

bottom cleat 11/z' 1Vq' 15a/+' P front base trim 3/c" 1y2" 14s/q' P
sidebasetrim 3/q' 11/z' 15s/q' 3/q" 3Yz' 26' 41" 30" 4u P

Proiect 2z Mitersaw work station

As with most workshops, the mitersaw serves as one of the busiesttools in Mark's shop, and it needed a permanent home. Mark neededadditional work surfaceand storage capacity.Theseneedswere met by installing a mitersawwork stationalongthe 18'right-hand wall (lookingin from rhegarage doorway).The mitersawwork station was centeredon the wall to allow maximum cutting lengthto the left or right. Two Versa-cabs (see Drawing 1), installed as base cabinets, support the countertopson either side of the mitersaw. Wall cleats (D) were screwedinto

wall studs to support the back of the countertopand the outsideend of the left countertop.If you don't carry the countertop all the way to the corner,build the end supportshownin Drawing 2. Either solutionwill provide firm support. Mark's shop had an unevenand sloped concretefloor that required a little extra effort when setting the base cabinets.To solvethe problem,the position of the base cabinets waslocated,andthenmeasured up from the highestspoton the floor. The top of the wall cleat was positioned41" from this high spot to allow the Versa-cab base cabinetsto fit underneaththe countertop, as shownin Drawing 2. Next, a 48"-long

end support crossrails

N 0

outer legs

3/q' 3Y2' longleg fillers 3/a' 31/z'

. Quantity for one cabinet.

shortlegfillers 3/q" 31/2'

depending onmitersaw table height, I 3y4-4', pO-poprar.. Materials plywood, key: BP-birch P-pine,

level line was drawn from this mark. We lengthenedthe level line acrossthe entire wall with a chalk line andusedthe mark to installthe wall cleats. Because of this floor variation, the height of the end supports wasadjusted until level with the line. 79

With the countertopsinstalled but not attached to the base cabinets, the base cabinets were positioned and leveled to maintain 27W' between the sides of the cabinets.This spacing left a 3/q"gap between the side of the basecabinet and the countertop side edging (C). The gap left spaceto maneuverthe mitersaw platform support (F) into the correct position. We then attachedthe countertopsto the base cabinetsthrough the upper top cleats(H). We placed a long straightedgeacross both countertopsto act as a guide while leveling and plumbing the basecabinets. In this case,one of the bottom cleats(I) was shaved,and we added cedar shims where neededto even up cabinets.Nails were driven through the cabinet bottom to hold the bottom furring strips in place. We securedthe bottom of the cabinetsto the floor by applying concrete-compatible siliconeto the trim parts (J,K) before nailing them in place. The end result: a perfectly level countertop.

To align the top surface otifre mitersaw with the top surface of the adjacent worksurface top, we used a combination square and measured down from Mark's mitersaw table; as shown. We then trimmed the width of the platform supports (F) to that measurement, less /r". This measurementgap provides adjustability for the platform positioning without sacrificing strength.

Set the depth of the front of the mitersaw platform first by sliding the platform supports (F) behind the countertop edging (C).Glamp the platform supports to the neighboring cabinet sides. Setthe depth of the platform's back, and screw it in place at that location. Return to the front, recheck the depth, and finish screwing the platform in place.

p sHeer-cooDs RAcK



#8 x 3" F.H.wood screws centeredover wall studs # 1 2x s / a " F.H.screw

Door hook and eye screw The lower (containment) stretcher (B) of the sheet goods rack is held in place by a 6" strap hinge bolted to the rack's side and a "hook and eye" at the other end.

Proieet 3: Sheet-goodsrack
Shopsneed a place to store sheetgoods, including sheetgood scraps.Mark's shop is no exception.However,the limited ceiling height (7'-9") of Mark's garage shop required some special considerations. To meet that need, we built a rack for horizontal storagewith enoughspaceinside for 97"-longsheets of MDF. (SeeDrawing 3) Because the wall-mounted cabinetry above the holder prevents placing full sheetsin the holder by lifting them over the lower containment stretcher, we designeda "swing-out" containment (B) that improvesthe accessibilstretcher ity of the rack and reducesthe amount of lifting necessary to storesheets. 80

The trough at the bottom of the rack contains the materials in a defined and generousspace.The rear stretcherat the top allows you to firmly mount the rack to wall studs.To add versatility, we also mountedtwo shortsections of heavy-duty cardboard carpet tubing (shown in the photo above left) to the side for containing dowelsand other thin-strip material.


3/q' 3Y2' 99"
P 3/q" 53/q' 97Y2"

B sUetchers
C botbm Materialkey: P-pine.

Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers


Wallstud #B x 3" F.H. wood screws

s/+" rabbel Ta" deep

t/+"groove 7a"deep 3/q" trom back edge

Floller catch strike 12',-..*

A tF\,

l--ot !-o-\.


@ wnu- cABINET
Rollercatch strike t/e"round-overalong outsideedges 291A',

Roller 3 JU catches Shelfpin

o o

ls' 0i"


V Va"hole
7e"deep 111V 6" ---


223/a" 1/q"gfoove s/e"degp 3/+"tfom back edge

'r"l -\

Full-overlay hinge 2314',

sides B C D back doors


30" MDF
231/q' MDF 2 1

topandbottom 3/q' 12"

Proiect 4= Wall cabinet

Most shopsrequire at least some degree of protectedstoragewhere dust can't enter. This basic wall cabinet meets that needsimply, affordably,and quickly. Cut the parts shown in Drawing 4 to size. If making a pair of cabinets that support shelving in between,first determine which cabinetsideswill supportthe shelving. On thesesides, drill the holesfor the shelf pins all the way through, where shown. This way, the holes can house a

Y4' 23Y4' 29Y4' HB

3/4" 1115/16" 30"

E* shelves F* shelf edging G wallcleat

3/+" 10Y4" 223/a' MDF

3/qu 11/2" 223/a' PO
3/q" 4u


22V2' PO

.Optional quantiity, shelf and shelf edging depending onneed. Materials key: MDF-medium-density fiberboard, HB-hardboard, PO-poplar. shelf pin on either side. Next, drrll Vq" holes 3/a"deepon the interior faces of the opposingcabinetsides. Assemblethe cabinetcarcaseand dryfit the Vq"back in place to ensurethat it's not so tight as to risk splitting off the lip behind. Then glue the Vc"backing into the V+" groove,and glue and nail the sides, top, and bottom together.To easeassembly and hanging, align and pre-drill the hinge holesfor the doors,but don't mount the doors until after hanging the cabinet. Install the cleat on the cabinet by using glue and nailing into the endsof the cleat and into the cabinetsides. Using 3" deck screws, we installed the cabinetsto wall studs.where shown. checkingfor level..l
Written by Mike Satterwhite Projectdesign:Kevin Boyle lllustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson Photographs: Richard McNamee

Two wall cabinets were mounted 18" above the countertop beside the mitersaw work station. The 18" space between the cabinets allows them to support adjustable shelving for added storage.

Where the money went

All in all, the workover at Mark's workshop was limited to a budget of 91,000, making the changes affordable. There was even cash left over. Here's what we had to buy to put things in order: Bandsaw mobilebase Jointer mobilebase Tablesaw mobilebase 7+"medium-density fiberboard (MDF)(5 sheets) t/+"hardboard (4 sheets) 3/q" birch plywood(3 sheets) 3/q" poplarand pine Tritonlumberrack Assortedhardware $106 106 80 142 47 108 76 82 84





power o achievc nrilxinrLuh nolcling w h e n u s i n g s c r c w s .c l r i l l i n - g the sizes c o r r e c t p i l o t - a n c ls h a n k - h o l e arc a nrust. Ancl. knowitt.' whitt [rit to Lrsc c o m b i n a t i o np i k r t / c o u n t e r s i n k lirr cach sclcw sizccan be a "bit" conl'Lrsin-9. T h e n t h e r c ' st h e p r o b l e n rw e a l l l l c e o 1 'k e e p i n - u o L r rn r a n v c l r i l l i n g [ r i t s . p l u g c L r t t e r sa . n c l c l r i v i n c b i t s o r s i u r i z c c l .T o s o l v e t h e s e c l i l e nr n a s . b L r i l c l t h i s s u p c r o r g a n i z e c lp r o j e c t . I exeloDED vrEW YoLr'llevertfincl a cokrr-coclccl :/a"round-over chalt to nrakc sclccting thc routedafter ass{,\y,-,-. xtra c o r r e c t b i t a n o - b r a i n e r 'E t i e r sp r o v i r l ep l e n t l ,o l ' r o o t nl i r r a l l t h c b i t s y o u ' l l n c c c lt o c l r i v c a w i c l ea s s o r t n r e n ot l ' s c r e w s . (nrc. LrscDrawing 1 Tir bLrilcl patternsorr ancl the l'Lrll-size Drawing 2 <tt't 1tugt,,lJ to cr-rt size. Use t/i' A F t o lrieces (A) lncl harclboarc fb l r thesicles - y ' +s " o l i c l s t o c k l i r r e v e r y l hi n c e l s e .F u r t h c t i c r s ( F ) . c u t a ) r r " thick pieceol' stock to lxl(r". M : . r r k t h e h o l e c c n t c r l ) o i n t \ See Drawing 2 for hole locations. ancl kcrl' locations lirr crosscutting the piecesto len-gth. D r i l l t h e h o l e s . b e v e l - r i pt h e bottonr ecl-ue with a pair of'-l-5" % solid 45" stock c u t s . t h e n c r o s s c l r t h c 't i e r s t o \.v l ' i n i s h e clle n g t h . W h e r t l r s s e n r round-over b l i n g t h e p n r . j e c t .a l l o w t h e afterassembly routed

#6 x 9'r' F.H.

# B x 7 + "F . H . WOOOSCTEW ,z #10 x s/+" F.H. wood screw

F.H.woodscrew #12 x 3/+"




-\i p i l o th o l e '
1 . / o r 'a i a a n




3/ta" hole,-

# Bx % F . H . woodscrew


Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers



Guideto pilot holes,countersinks, plug cutters, and drivers

For wood screws of this size

Use the following accessories and hole sizes

Hardwood pilot-hole size

5/64" I e/gz"
Softwood pilot-hole size


| 5/a+"

lid to rotate on the two #8xz/+"flathead screws.We sandedthe edge of the lid to rotatesmoothlybetweenthe sides(A). Use model airplane gloss-enamel paint or nail polish to mark portions of the bits to match the color-codedchart. Cut out the color chart above or make a color photocopyof it. Using spray adhesive, adherethe chart to the inside of the

box, where shown in the photo opposite. Then, when you need to drill a hole, note the size of the screwon the chart. If you're not sure, match its head size to the tier of screwspermanently mounted in part E. Match the color on the chart for that particular size to the color codedbit. aF
Projectdesign:Jeff Mertz

@ ruu--srzEPATTERNS




y1" deen4fa1"deep\,i

Vsz" h1le

,/a" hOle

.t ,,




s/ro" hol e 1" deep



rl V\
r|, t];t




r|,@ t]z i:.!3';----Q


Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2008


Tool Tray
ere'sa great way to squeeze a lot of tool-storage spaceinto a small area. The storage tray shown here holds nine measuringand marking tools and quickly folds up into an often-unused space. You couldjust as your tray to hold chisels, easilycustomize screwdrivers, wrenches, or othertools. To build thetray,youmustfirst measure the underside of thecabinet. The lengthof the tray shouldequalthe insidemeasurementbetween the two sides of the cabinet minus t/s"for clearance. The width of the tray mustequalthe measurement from the wall to the insideedgeof the cabinetface frame minus the thicknessof the wall cleatand minus Vs"for clearance. For accuratepositioning,center and screw the wooden latch to the bottom edge of the cabinet face frame after you have installed the tray. Then, hold the tray in the closedposition,and drill the hole for the dowel through the latch and into the front rail of the tray.Finally, cut tool-holdingblocksand glue them to the tray bottom to prevent your tools from sliding around.lF
P r o j e c tD e s i g n : R.B.Himes Photograph: John Hetherington l l l u s t r a t i o:n R o x a n n eL e M o i n e



he news is shockin-g b r " rttr u e : O L t t ' s h o l - ru sr e i n c l L t t t ec r r i s i s .M o s t a r c w i t h t o o l s a n c ls u p p l i e s so stul'l'ed lirr projects. that littlc spacerenrains 'fakc. lirr exanrple.Jerry Mertetts' sliop in F o r s y t h . M i s s o L r r i .H i s p l a c c s l i o w e c la l l o l ' a s i c k s l t o l t . v i s i b l e 'i n the synrptonrs the "be lirrc" photos ancl floilr plan. Durvri s i t . w e c u r e c lh i s s h o p ing our -lt3-hoLr to hat you calt Ltse w i t h s i n r p l es o l r , r t i o nts work over your wilrk space.

--_-. .r:.T...l.


a '


h o o k s a n d h a n g i n gi t e m s . E v e r ys h o p w a l l w a s f i l l e d w i t h a n o v e r l o a do f d i s o r g a n i z e d



A Corner
1 I J Radial-armSAW

D Gorner FTf------l'r
Window Countertop with ooen storage below I -.'1-.--l

A Gorner
. ::t: I F n^lna6d

D Gorner

Storage snerves




I dl t t | l l
I I i l t c J

r -'} L/--\

Spindle sander

lnl c lyl 5 I ll-r

'\" '' Chair 7 Dust!-/ n\ collectorll|trl

u *o\

Mitersaw -t'-)


Radial-arm SAW

Spindle sander GARAGE



Dust collectorr_r.--ll ^{l c \nt


I (-o j )l
BelVdisc sanoer
rr----- 1I r-r} il|


R o u t e rt a b l e| | I H I

IltE ti

ll.-r Ul


t6-ll t.r-__7i
il Portable Planer

ql_- ,1


Rolling toolbox

Y9raPn prns I I
Vacuum under / table

Portable Planer .tl !'

: r---

BelVdisc sanoer
1I|l._rT il|

Tablesaw and extension wino with route-r table

Tablesaw llgs on wal.






HI t"t
t "l Itrfi



Dust collectorTool T-----n^ I _-JL ano parrs I L__jS Foot loct<erlocker l,.ll l\-/l \-

Plywood storage Lumber rack

b CD _oi c!

ol (Jl


B Corner

Clamshell srorage cabinet

Plywood storage Drill press Lumber racK

B Corner

Gorner G

Gorner G

Before the workover began, Jerry's shop was crowded and inefficient.Atterward,the shop is effectivelyartanged and the walls hold cabinets instead ol dust-coveredDackaqesand tools.


Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers


New prefab cabinet

- l



. ...: :,::i...:-j::

,, ,

The Sickness: F;*iterinex i'*l-rs"*h stur.ege

Jerry's storagefbr finishing suppliesconsisted of a set of simple shelves (see Corner A-Be.fore photo). They swallowed stain and finish cans, and gobbled up loads of dust and clutter.

The Sickness: La*k ert enc*e:sed stsrage

Perforated hardboard off-ers versatile storage; but in Jerry's shop, this storage system was hooked on clutter. One wall was packed with hooks that held most anything you could think of, much in its original packaging (see Corner ABeJitre photo).

Like rnost shops, Jerry's evolved over time. As new tools and jigs entered,they were positioned wherever they'd fit.

thg tfie k We relocated Jerry's tools and sr-rpplies where they belong, instead of wherever space allowed. The "after" floor plirn, lefi, shows that tools tbr breaking down boards-radial-arm saw. jointer, and planer-reside on one end of the shop. Tools for machining parts, handwork, and assemblylive on the other end. Jerry now has easy accessto everything.

The Gure: Rearni*r-Beti{'4r* 'rr,r::rc

The Cure: A r";*tuT tne;acle:

{: I tr\,J t{.} t i} r.",-rlJ i r} q} | Two t/2"-plywood doors hinged to a face frame made of scrap stock put this problem under wraps. Secured by wood turn buttons, the doors keep dust out, and cans in (see Corner A-A.fier photo).

The Cure: Fr*fah fr#hia.rt:;xr,, cr*#t'"sfi r{uick s*ir,ltior:r

To provide storage, we hung four readyto-assernble prefab cabinets purchased at a home center(seeCornersA and BTheseunitsinstallquickly lfter photos). and-at $50 and$75apiece depending on size-prove economicalwhen compared to buildingyour own cabinets.



Wall hooks hold oftenused items.




Tfhe bandsaw ihas a home!

The Sickness: A sinqle cabinet gets crammeE-full

Jerry had built one four-doorwall cabinet (seeCorner B-Before photo).It proved suitablefor holding jars of screwsand a few supplies.But at only about 4" deep, it couldn't acceptmuch else.This cabinet location near the benchproved ideal, though, for turning the cabinet into a home for hardwareand hand tools.


Jerry's shop now sports a clean countertop and loads of enclosed cabinet space. Using a combination of shop-built and store-bought units allows easy customization.

Door skin tZ" birch # 1 6 x 1 " w i r eb r a d bitch plywood Door skin 1/z" pine, Door tops 3/q" wide 31/2" # 1 6x 1 " wire brad

The Cure: Deepshop-built doors hold more

cabinet We turned this space-impaired into a storagesuperstarby equipping it with clamshelldoors. (Seethe drawing, right, andCorner B-After photo).Inside one pair, perforatedhardboardoffers efAnother option: fectivehangingstorage. insidethe doors.Jerry plans Add shelves to load this cabinet with more hardware and handtools.

Dooredges g/q"pine 3t/z" wide #6x 1"F.H. wood screw

The Sickness: Toolshave no placeto call home

When we arrived in Jerry's shop, we found the bandsawand drill pressshoved into a corner due to lack of open floor space (see Corner C-Before photo). had to be pulled out into Both machines the room for use. At least those tools could be used. tools that residedon his Jerry'sbenchtop long built-in counter (seeCornersA and B-Before photos) had gotten so buried that they were tough to evenfind.

# 1 6x 1 " wire brad

t/z" plywood

The Gure: Reclaimed areas give tools space

Pushingthe bench and tablesawtogether items,suchas and removingunnecessary 88

7/a+" pilot hole 7a"deep 7se" shank hole.countersunk F.H.wood screw x 11/2"

Door bottom s/q"pine 3/2" wide

/a" perforated hardboard

Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers


You can never have enough clamps, or rack space to hold them. The drill press, which was crammed into a corner, now can be used anytime and is surrounded by plenty of work space.

a foot locker, extra scrapbins, and loads of lumber cut-offs, freed up about 20 percentmore floor spacein Jerry'sshop. This meansthe bandsawand drill oress now get their own cornerswherethey're easy to use but out of the way. (Seethe After floor plan.) We even brought the portableplanerin from the garage. Solvingthe on-wall storage issues over the long counter also made more usable space available for Jerry'sbenchtop tools.

constructed the sameway.The difference lies in the size and spacingof the slots. One rack holds pipe clamps, the other keepsrapid-actionbar clamps.

At least the tablesaw became a convenient tabletopand workbench-meaning it easilygot buried!

The Sickne$s: An unmovable tablesawdoublesas a dumpingground

Jerry's3-hp cabinetsaw with a 52" fence earns its keep at the center of the shop. But positioning it there effectively chops the workspaceinto two separaterooms.

The Gure: Makinq the saw mobile cuts out h5ssle

Mounting a universalmobile baseunder the saw allows Jerry to move this heavy machine by himself if the need arises. That way he can positionit for cutting big boardsor get it out of the way altogether to increasefloor space.
Pipe-clamp slot

The Sickness: Jiqs and woodworkingclarips sit in the wrohg carhps

As shown in the Corner C-Before photo, Jerry built his shop with an 8'-wide doorway leading into his garage. He neverused half of the opening,though, and simply coveredit with clear plastic. jigs on the wall He hung a few tablesaw (in a locationnot handy to the saw),and parkeda rolling toolbox in front of it.


Rapid-action bar clampslots

TOP 1/z plywood x 41/2"

#16x1" wire nails

The Gure: Wall racks cradleclamps

Enclosinghalf of the doorway with a 4'wide wall givesthe shopa finished look and provides the backdrop for a bevy of clamp racks (see Corner C-After photo). The clamps used to hang on the opposite end of the shop,a long way from Jerry'sworkbench. We moved what clamp racks he had, plusbuilt a few more,like the onesshown in the drawing at right. Both styles are

CLEAT s/+x3Yz" pine

7se" shank hole, countersunk

Secureto studswith #8 x2/2" F.H.wood screw.

SUPPORT t/zx 41/z x 8" pine


The Sickness: A router table wastes space

In the Corner D-Before photo, you'll see that clamps consumed one wall on the infeed side of Jerry's tablesaw. Someof the longer clampsforced him to position his router table away from the floor space. wall in the alreadyinadequate

The Gure: An all-in-one station sawingand,routing worKswongers

table and We got rid of the stand-alone replaced it with a router-table-equipped wing for the tablesaw. This fullextension function tableatethe biggestsinglechunk of our budget (detailed in "Where the moneywent" atbottomright),butupgraded both Jerry's tablesawand his routing in additionto openingup space. capabilities Of course, we didn't let the spacewe created go to waste. We parked Jerry's rolling tool box along the newly cleared wall where it interfered least with other the toolshoptools. Then we surrounded jigs. They box with Jerry'smany tablesaw now hang on screwswhere they belong, on the infeed side of the saw whereJerry can reach them easily as he works (see Corner D-After photo).

-: \
Long clamps behind the router table gobbled up valuablefloor space in Jerry's shop. Jerry had only a narrow path between his tablesaw, foreground, and his radial-arm saw.

The final diagnosis

So, did our cures rid Jerry's shop of its sickness? Here's what Jerry had to say: "I knew that I wasn'tvery organized, but I didn't realize what a difference more storage and mobility could make.I find it hard to believehow much better the shop functions, and so does everyone who comesby to seemy workshopworkover."

Jerry has learned that anyone can get his or her workshop organized. It just takes forethought,a few well-spent dollars,and a little help from his woodworking friends.JF
Writtenby David Stone with Kevin Boyle, Chuck Hedlund, and Jeff Mertz Photographs: Gayle Harper, In-SightPhotography

Where the nroney went

We set out to make major improvements without spending more than You can see that had we not $1,000. needed two big-ticket items-the router table and tablesaw mobile base-we could have cut our budget in half.Here's howwe spentour money, dollar. rounded to the nearest mobilebase Tablesaw Routertable extension for tablesaw Cabinets (three24x30",one 24x36") Universal 'mobile base 4" lockingcasters Sheetgoods Lumber Hardware and supplies TOTAL
Adjusting the new mobile base makes Jerry's massive tablesaw moveable.

$ 180

$ s+z
$ 216 $ 28 $ 95 $80 $42 $ 988


Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2008

flsI.t-4'b i


Ditching the freestandingrouter table made space for a tool box. The dust collector tucks tight to the wall and turns on by remote control.

Router-table extension wing

' - . '\

See moreshopproiect plans at \,r/ood rr agazine.{0 m ish r:pi*oi s

An integratedrouter table makes the tablesaw multi-tasf. Senlor Oesign Editor Kevin Boyle makes sure it sits flush with the saw table.



for Storage Lumber, ScraFS, Goods Sheet and

Buildone or all three of these easy-to-makeprojects to keep your shop organized.

Adjustable board bunks
{ To make each rack, start by cutting I two piecesof Vz"plywood to the sizes shown on Drawing 1 to create the side plates for the board bunk. l)From an 8'-long 2x4 cut a piece 40" 6\ong. Rip about Vz" from one edge. Then rip the other edge to achieve the frnal2Vz" width. flFrom the ripped stock, cut the divid\Jers to length, as shown, making sure to miter both ends at 5". (Note that the bottom divider is 4Vs" long.) The workpiece is longer than you'll need, but this allows you to work around knots to make the dividers as strongas possible. from a scrap lllCut a spacer2\3/te"-wide 'Tof 2x4 stock, and use this as a spacer to align the dividers. Now glue and screw the dividers to the plates,where shown.

7a"hole e/e" lag screw 5" long t/+"round-overs DIVIDER



shankhole, 7ez" countersunk

Make as many of these adjustable racks ds you need to store boards flat and out of the way. Wall-mount them over studs.

#8 x 1" F.H.wood screw Tools,& ShopOrganizers 2008 Woodworking Best-Ever Jigs, Homemade


Trt make the arms. rip a secondpiece of 2x4 to 2.3A"wicle. Again, avoid sections with knots to ensure maxinrum strength. (We ntade four arms for each rack assembll,.) Miter one end of each arm at 5o. Then roLlt /+" round-overs on the ed-ues ancl ends where shown. Don't rout

the mitered end. Sandall the parts through 15O-grit, and apply a clear finish if desired. To mount the rack assembly, locate yourwalls studs,andthendrill.%" holes throu-eh fburof the dividers,as shown.Use t h e s e h o l et so m a r k y o u r w a l l ,a n d t h e n d r i l l /+" pilot holes 2" deep into the studs. (lf

the studsareexposed-no drywall-then makethe pilot holes2r/2"-deep.) Screw the rack assemblyonto the studsusing3/sx5" lag screws, spacing them every 16" or 24". Slip in the arms, and add your prized lumberstock.



p scnaPsoRrER

1/qx 3/q x 141/2" edge banding 1/qx3/ax193/q" edge banding


7sz" shankhole, countersunk

Corral your cutoffs with this handy mobile cart. lt lets you organizeyour stock by length so you'll always know exactly what you have at a glance.

/' \

panhead screw

$to rage Solution 2:

; ',;;- . i - r , 'i , $hei6,- -' .:,, :::i,,c Be-sin by cLrttin-u the plywood sides. shelves. and dividers to the sizes shown on Drawing 2. Rip stock (we used poplar) to size to create the edge bandin-e. Then apply the ed-ue banding. where shown. This will dress up the project while protectin-rthe plywood ed-qes from nicks.

Place both side pieces face to face and drill shank holes for the #8x2" screws that will hold the cart rogether.Also drill shank and pilot holes, and then assemble each of the divider cubbies. Sand the parts through 15O-grit,and apply two coats of clear finish to all the cart's pieces. Now assemblethe cart. We used screws only-no glue-to allow tweaking the fit of each piece.

Install four 3" swivel casters to the bottom corners of the cart, where shown. To do this, turn the cabinet upside down, place a caster at each corner, mark and drill the holes. and screw the casters in place.



3/q"boll2" long

s/sz"hole, countersunk

#B x 2" F.H.


wood screw




1/zx3/qx 481/a"

9 6" Sheet goods never store easily,and they take up a lot of shop space.This tall cart allows you to store full sheets, half sheets, and cutoffs in a small area.Though sizeable, it rolls around with little effort. We've even included wall-mountingbracketsyou can add if your shop floor is rough or out of level.lf your ceiling is less than 9', take a pass on this project.




edgebanding edgebanding SHELF





3" swivel caster

s/qx 1 x 26t/q" edge banding



Upstanding sheet storage cart
Note: For structural strength, we used -t/t" plywood; five sheets suffice for the project shown. If you intend to finish or paint the project, you'll find it easier to simply apply it to the full sheets before you begin cutting and assembly. We applied two coats of water-based finish using a paint pad, taking care to not coat the plywood edges. Cut the top, bottom, back, and shelves to the sizes shown on Drawing 3. Next, cut edge banding (we used poplar) to the sizes shown in the drawing. Note that the edge banding on the front edge of the top and bottom extends these plywood parts by 1", whereas the edge banding on the front edges of the top, 94
1/z'F.H. SCTEW 1" hole

Note: 4 needed

extend bottom,sides, divider,and shelves the plywood parts by t/r". This ensures Noq cut the shelfcleats alignment. to size. Apply edging,where shown,and the samefinish or paint usedon the plywood parts.Attach the shelf cleatsusing #8xt/+"screws. Assemble thecart using#8x2" screws, as shown.You may want a friend to help move the configurationand steady

the large pieces. We found it easiestto tnstall the shelvesbetween one side and the divider, and then add the back, top and bottom, and final side. When done, install 3" swivel casters,where shown. t Bunks: Project designs: Board Jeff Mertz Storage Cart:Jerry Scrap Sorter, Sheet Goods
Lenz, Elizabeth, Colo. l l l u s t r a t i o n s :R o x a n n e L e M o i n e

Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008

, \ ' o l c . ' ( ) t t t ' t l t ' tt t i t t 1 4 t st t t t l I n ( ' ( t \ L t t ' ( n t ( n ! \ t t t ' c f l t t ' t t t l r t o t 'l t t u t L ' i( t n ( l l t ' t t n t ( 'l t t t c t l i r , t , r i t l . s i - c t ll t r t l t L ' .I l t t ' : i , t ' ( u t ( ) l ) ( n - . \ l t r r t t ln rrtotl rt ''t,ttt rtl lltc ltit't't's t t t ' t ' t l c , lr l l 1 1r ' r l i ' . f c l l t t n t o t f t ' 1 .l ' l t t t \ ( ' t t t ( ( t : t u ' t '. t r t t u ' l i t l l t L ' . \ l ( t n ( lr t t t t l l t t o l . s . t t t t t l t t t l f t t s l t r tt t t t ' t l i t t g l . t . ( ' r i t t l r c I r r t t t l t t r t o Liil i t t t c i n t ' r t i r r ' l : . , l t o ur ] o n D r a w ( \ . l J ) t o s r z c "r t l t i , t l e 11 . 1o 1t t r ' l l t t l t i i r r g 1 . . t l l l r t i L l g lt ri r e o p g 1 1 i 1 r : t l t t t t i\ \ l l \ t r r t l ) c , / r l i t l r\i\lc r i t t tl l . L I r i t ' . ntilrla I r ' ([ i t t l t t r l t r lti ) l ' r ' i r \ r it ' ) . , , t t \ l lL t \ ' r ; r , l l . I - l t -o r t t t l u t c l t l r i I I t i t c t t l t i i r r r : i i ,i l r ' . -[ircn. glrre " r l o uc l . l r r t t l c l i t t t t l r t l r e l.ittcl" c ( ) l ' n c l ' . j o i n t se "h c e l ' t i r t l o t ' s ( l L r . u ' c tlrill ; " l r , r l c rt h i ' t i t t g l ith c u o o r l c n l t ' r . t t t t . ' l u n t li n c t l r l s l l n t l l i r l b o l t i r r r t l r e l n r t t t c i o thc lathc'.llrnri


Tools, & S h o pO r g a n r z e r s 2 0 0 8 B e s t - E v eW r oodworking J i g s ,H o m e r n a d e

Cut the door panel (C) to size from 3/+" birch plywood. , Miter-cutthe bandingstrips(D, E) to size from 3/q"stock.Rout %0" chamfers along the mating edgesof C, D, and E, whereshownon Drawing 2. *-*Cut or rout %" grooves t/q"deepalong 'z*#the mating edgesof the bandingstrips (D, E) and plywood door panel (C). Cut splinesto the sizeslisted on Drawing 1. Next, glue, spline, and clamp the chamferedbandingstripsto the plywood panel.

On the insideface of the door panel, iadd a solid-wood tool holder(F) to fit your turning tools,as shownon Drawing 1. The holesin the holdershouldbe about t/to"larger than the diameterof the metal ferruleon your turning-toolhandles. Add otherholdersas needed. 'i Finish-sand the pieces. Mask the ply.i wooddoor panel.Now,finish the solidwood banding (D, E) and frame (A, B) with a clearfinish. Later,maskthe sealed wood, and paint the plywood door panel.

hinge QUse a pieceof lVz"continuous Llto securethe bottom of the door panel to the top edge of the bottom frame member (A). Bolt the frame to the stand. Finally, to keep the door from opening too far, usean I l" lengthof chainto connect the door to the frame. i
Writtenby Marlen Kemmet P r o j e c tD e s i g n J : im Boelling lllustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson Photographs: Hopkins Associate

eXeIODED VIEW (Viewedfrom back side of door)

1lax7lrc x 28" spline


Closed door hides tool storage.

$ ffi

1/a"grooves 1/+" deep

#8 x 5/e"R.H. wood screw for mountinqchain

to pari@

[| rnorurvtEW

1/ro" chamfers on parts@, @, anO@. /2"wirepull

1/+" carriaqe bolt 1" lon"g secunno framet6' stand.

Plywood Hinged door (open) viewed from top of lathe woodmagazine.com


AUersatile for Solution your Basement orGarage

Utility Cabinet System

with the Not impressed particleboard utility at cabinetsavailable your local home center?Neitherwere we. So we designeda sturdy,easy-to-build set of cabinets.Build one or more of the to suit your components clutter-controlneeds.
Build the cabinet cornbination


that flts your space and storage needs









Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers

or basement is the final I f your garage I pocket of disorganizedresistancein this SWAT I yout home,then assemble I teamof storage solutions. Made of durable medium-density fiberboard(MDF), thesecabinets featurerigid hardwoodface frames and, for added hanging options, perforated-hardboard backs. Better yet, the systemis chock full of featuresthat'll help you speedthroughthe construction: . Shop-made guides make drilling hardware mountingholesfast and accurate. . Butt-joint construction makes for fast but sturdyjoinery. . Screw-together assembly allows you to prefinish all the parts with a paint roller. . Special drawer side/slide hardware makesbuilding the drawersa breeze. . Self-closing hingeseliminatethe need for door catches. And whenit's setuptime,levelers accessiblefrom insidethe baseand tall cabinets give you perfectno-hassle alignment.

Position the stiles (A, B, C) with a stopblock, and drill countersunk screw holes s/a" ltom the ends. Reposition the stopbfock, and drill holes 1s/o" lrom the ends.

Clamp a stile (A, B, C) and rail (D, E) to a flat surface, aligning them with a stopblock. Drill pilot holes into the rail, and drive the screws. Repeat for the other three corners.

Planyour installation
Measure the lengthof wall in the area I whereyou wish to setup your storage system.Make sure there is room for the I7z/+"depthof the tall and basecabinets. Eachwall/basecabinetpair and eachtall cabinet require30" of wall length.To find the total numberof 30" modulesyou can fill with a combination of wall/baseand tall cabinets,divide the total length of available wall in inchesby 30, and round your answerdown to the next whole number. For instance,if your wall measures 103",dividing 103" by 30" equals3.43 modules. Roundingthis down to a whole modulegivesyou three30" modules. The 90" cabinetarrangement, shownopposite page,bottomright, would fit in this space with 13" left over. .*)Make a sketchof the wall area,divid&ing it into the numberof 30" modules {

determined in the previous step. Then sketch in the combination of wall/base and tall cabinets that fits your needs.Now count the number of each type of cabinet and generate a cutting list by filling in the blankson the Materials List on page 104.


FRAMES l-9,/o'

Tsz" shank hotes, countersunk

24t/q" tol 86t/c" tor


19e/a" for tall cabinet 6r/2"tor base cabinet

Vtor tall cabinet part@ . | 9t/e',on I for base cabin-et

L,rrr"on part@

Holesin tall cabinet only


7sz" shankholes. countersunk with mating pilotholes 7o+" 1" deepintorails

Gut the case parts

From t/q" thick poplar, cut the stiles I (A, B, C), top andcenterrails (D), bottom rails (E), edging (F), and back rails (G) to the sizeslisted on the Materials List. Mark the part letter on the end of eachpiece,and stackthe parts in order. flReferring to Drawing1, drill counter6sunk 7:2" shankholescentered in the edgesof the stiles (A, B, C) for fastening the top and bottom rails, as shownin Photo A. Then drill countersunk shank holesin the stiles(B, C) for fastening the centerrails of the tall and basecabinets. Assemblethe stiles and top and bottom rails, as shownin Photo B. Then adb the centerrails. wheredimensioned. {

QMeasure the exact sizes of the asiJsembled face frames. and then from 3/+"medium density fiberboard (MDF), cut the sides(H, I, J); narrow tops and






bottoms (K); and wide tops, bottoms, and fixed shelves(L) to size. Make surethe sidesare the samelength as the mating stiles and the length of the tops, bottoms, and fixed shelvesis equal to the overall width of the face frames. Then cut the adjustable shelves (M, N), doors (O, P), and drawer fronts (T) to size. Mark the part letter on the end of each piece, and stack the parts in order. For the length of the backsplash(X), add up the total width of the base cabinets in your storage system, and cut a piece of 3/q"MDF to the width listed and the length det6rmined. /lCount the number of base and tall Tcabinets in your storagesystem.Des-

ignate this number of parts L as bottoms, and use a Vi' Forstner bit to drill leveler holes,where shown on Drawing 2. access f,Measure the actual thickness of the rJperforated hardboard for the backs (Q, R, S), and cut 3/a"-deep groovesin the sides(H,I, J), whereshownon Drawing 3. fiGlue and clamp the edging (F) to lJthe adjustableshelves(M, N), where shown on Drawings 4, 5, and 6. When the glue dries, sandthe edging flush with the shelves. Then sand any saw marks from the edgesof all the MDF parts. Now rout %" round-oversalong the front edges of the edging, the front edgesof the sides (H, tr,J), and all edgesof the doors (O, P) and drawer fronts (T). r/From V+" perforated hardboard, cut I the backs (Q, R, S) to size. Cut the tool board face (Z) to width and to the samelength as the backsplash(X).

F- 11 lvt
lt" groove 7a"deep 4q" trom back edge on inside face V+"gloove 7a"deep Vq"tfom back edge on insideface

a: ,;;i::i

I t/+"groove

- backedge on insideface

s/sz" shank holes, countersunk








standard Ei
Shelf -Shelf


Shelf standard 20" long t/e"round t/a"round-overs

#8 x 2" F.H. wood screw

,standard #8 x 2 " F.H.wood V /screw


l( I
251/2' 11/2",

Shelfsupport /2" overlayselfclosinghinge z%+" pilot hole lrh" deep

S" chromewire pull

/ s/sz" shank hole, #8 x 2" F.H. 7ee" 111Vt' shank hole, ) countersunk wood screw countersunk *gx 21/2, F.H.woodscrew #8x2" F.H.woodscrew
Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2008




$ rnu cABtNEr

7/aq" pilol hole 1t,/q"deep


x 2" F.H. wood screw


Shelfstandard 20" long



3" chrome wirepulls


g/o" hole


#8 x3/q" panhead screw


Shelfstandards t/z" leveler 60" long s/sz" shank hole, countersunk

access hole



#8x2/2" F.H.woodscrew

3/e-16x 2r/2" leveler

#8 x 2" F.H. wooo screw

t/a"round-overs --15s/+'7

7sz" shank hole, 3/ro" hole,countersunk countersunk 10-24x 11/q" F.H.machine screw

7/aq" pilol hole 1t/q" deep

t/aq" pilol hole 1t/a" deep

EXeLoDED vtEW @ ense cABINET


14" drawerslide

7sz" shank hole. countersunk

t '/4



12"overlayself'closing hinge

t/z" leveler access hole

#8x 2" F.H. wood


-13-flilil,"il1 ,_/'r)8.
ler bracket/ bracket/ fL, , , Levefer s/e-16 -/ / X 2t/2" 17e/+' leveler 10-24 x 1t/q"F.H. 3Aa" hole,countersunk machinescrew



With the back (Q) captured in the side (H) grooves,clamp the top (K) in place,flush with the tops of the sides, and the bottom (K) in pface, 13/q" lrom the bottoms of the sides.

Alignthe top edgesof the rails(D,E)with the top surfacesof the top and bottom(K). Drillcountersunk screwholeswheremarked on the sidesand rails,anddrivethe screws. the back assemble ftFor a wall cabinet, #(Q), sides (H), and top and bottom (K), as shownin Photo C. Now add the face frame (A/D/E), as shown in Photo D. Assemble the basecabinetin the same manner. For the tall cabinet, insert and align the fixed shelf (L), as shown in Photo E. Then drill countersunk screw holes, where marked on the sides, and rails and drive the screws. facedown, andposi,{ Turn the cabinets *Ttion the back rails (G) where shown

the tall Place a 21"-long spacerbetween top andfixedshelf(L)at the back. cabinet of the to alignthetop surface Usea square shelfandtop edgeof the centerrail(D). on Drawings 4, 5, and 6. Drill countersunk screw holes through the sides and Then into the rails. and drive the screws. on all the cabinets, drill countersunk screw holes through the back rails and into the tops and bottoms(K, L). On the tall cabinet,drill and screwthe back rail to the fixed shelf(L). Then turn the cabinet over.and drill and screwthe back (R) to the backrails. ffiTo mount the levelerson the baseand b",,ttall cabinetsand the pulls on all the
Y4 OTOOVeS F--t3/n'

Finishand assemble
.'riTo'seal the edgesof the MDF parts * before painting, see the Shop Tip, below.Now prime and paint all the parts exceptthe backrails (G). (We rolled on an exterior acrylic latex primer followed by two coats of exterior acrylic latex semigloss paint. A short-nap roller gives the surfaces a subtleflaw-hiding texture.) maskingtapeto the outsidefaces :f't.gApply (H,I, J),andmark screw-hole .rtof thesides locations, wheredimensioned on Drawing 3. Make sure the sidesare mirror images. Then apply maskingtape to the faceframe rails (D, E), andmark screw-hole locations, whereshownon Drawing 1.

I ontl curDES

vd"deep _ft--l

Seal MDF edcr - es quicklv and e-ffectively
The rawedgesof MDFpartswillsoak up many coats of primerbeforethey are readyfor a finishcoat of paint.To avoid repeatedprimer applications, mix three parts woodworkingglue with one part waterand seal the edges, as shown below.When dry, sand the edgessmoothwith220-9rit sandpaper.Apply a singlecoat of primer, and you'rereadyfor the finishcoat.
lq x 31/qx 41/2"hardboard





tAx3x53/q" hardboard

guide Hold the levelerdrilling guide cleat against the bottom end of the side and align the guide edge with the side front edge. Drillthe holes. Repeatat the rear and other side. With a plywood scrap underneath the door to prevent chipout, position the drilling guide with the short cleat against the end of the door and the long cleat against the e d g e ,a n d d r i l l t h e h o l e s .


Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2008

Insert1"-wide spacersbetween the shelf standards and the stile (A)and back(Q). Withthe endsof the standards against the bottom(K),nailthestandards in place. doors,makethe drilling guidesshownon Drawing7. Then drill holesin the cabinet sides,as shown in Photo F. Countersink the holeson the outsidefaces.Drill holes in the doors,as shownin PhotoG. (Drill the holesat any corner.They will be properly orientedwhen installing the hinges.) Fasten the levelers to the cases with #1024xlV+" flathead machine screws.lock washers, andnuts.Do not installthe pulls at this time. ' For the wall cabinet, trim the top ends , {#of four 24"-longshelfstandards to 20". Referringto Drawing 4a, fastenthe standards to the sides(H) with special shelf standardnails, as shown in Photo H. For the basecabinet install 24" standards. For thetall cabinet, install60"standards in the lowercompartment and trim24" standards to 20" for the uppercompartment. pPosition the top and bottom hinges f for each door on the stiles (A, B, C) and drill pilot holes,as shownin Photol. Positionthe top and bottom hingeson the doorswith the previously drilled pull holes at the bottomsof the wall cabinetand tall cabinetshortdoors(O) and the topsof the basecabinetshortdoors (O) and tall cabinet long doors(P).Now mountthe hinges, as shown in Photo J. Then on each long door,centera third hinge,drill pilot holes, and screwthem in place.

Tape a 2r/q"-long spacer to the stile with one end against the top, center, or bottom rail. Hold the hinge against the spacer,and drill pilot holes, centered in the hinge slots.

Set your combination square lo23/c". Holding the square againstthe top and bottom edges of the door, and the hinges against the guide, drill pilot holes. Then, drive the screws.

Holdthe bottom/back (V/W)in assembly yourvise.Remove the optional alignment tabsfromthe drawer side/slides, andclamp themin place. Drillpilotholes, and drive the screws. through the back and into the bottom; and drive the screws.Mount the drawer side/slides to the bottom/back assemblv. as shownin Photo K. flSnap the righr and left-handdrawer\Jfront brackets onto the side/slides. Apply masking tape to the front (T) and

Withthe locations of the bottomfront cornersof the drawerbox marked on masking tape,alignthe drawer box assembly with the marks, and markthe bracket-hole locations. mark the bottom front cornerlocationsof the drawerbox on the tape,where shown on Drawing 8. Mark bracket mountingscrew locations,as shown in Photo L. Removethe drawer box, drill pilot holes, and remove the tape. Reposition the drawerbox. and drive the screws.

(viewed from the back) S OnnWER

Left-handdrawer-f ront bracket 3" chrome wire pull
1 / l l



'-* Laminatetwo piecesof t/q-thickstock, f and cut the cleats(U) to size.Placea 71/z t/2"selt2"-wide spacerbetweenthe basecabinet top (L) and the cleat,and clamp the cleat adhesive bumper in place.Drill countersunkscrew holes through the side (J) and into rhe cleat. Then drive the screws. *rpFrom %" plywood, cut the drawerbot&tom (V) and back (W) to size.Clamp the back to the bottom, where shown on \ I Drawing 8;drill countersunk screwholes # 6 x V z "panhead screwI

Make base cabinetdrawers


,r)o"nn""d screw
pilothole /a"deep 7ez"
131/q -{ #8 x 11/q'F.H. wood screw

7sz" shank hole.countersunk 14" metaldrawerside/slide



Add a top and tool board

List. How to complete theMateilals planning count thenumber Step 1Working offyour sketch, Enter the numbers in wall, tall, and base cabinet. ofeach verticalcolumns marked white inthe alltheopen boxes 1under case. Column the appropriate 2 Add thenumbers ineach horizontalrowand enter Step 2. inthe inColumn the sum ooen box 2 bythenumber inColumn Step 3 Multiply thenumber inColumn 4.This isthe inColumn 3 and enter theresult part number oftop number oleach needed. For the total (F); (G); (D); rails wide rails shelf edging back and center (L); (N), wide fixed shelves and shelves tops, bottoms, and 4 and enter inthetworows ofColumn add thenumbers the sum inColumn 4a.

ct o o) e (rt

e o

A B C D E F F G G H I J wallstiles tallstiles base stiles toprails rails bottom shelf edging shelf edging backrails backrails wallsides tallsides
3/t, 3/q,

(D .ct

E z, 11/2, 241h'
11/2" 11/2' 861h', 323/+'




251/2" 251/2" 28"


D center rails

3/q' 2Y2' 3/+u 1Y2'

3/+u 11/z'

3/q" 21/2' 28Yd'

3/q" 21/2' 281/2'


To make the lVz"-thick top (Y), cut two I pieces of 3/q"MDF to the width listed and (X). Glue to match the length of the backsplash and screwthe piecestogetherwith the edgesand ends flush. Sand the front edge smooth.Rout a 3/s" round-over along the top front edge and a Vt" round-overalong the bottom front edge, where shown on Drawing 9. Apply two coatsof semiglosspolyurethane to the front edge,sandingbeThen apply tweencoatswithZ2o-grit sandpaper. two additionalcoatsto the entire top, once again sandingbetweencoats. (X) to the rear edgeof f)Clamp the backsplash Athe top, flush at the bottom and ends. Drill countersunkscrewholesthrough the backsplash and into the top, where shown on Drawing 9. Drive the screws. (AA) for the endsof the QCut vertical spacers Uface (Z), and then enoughto spacethem 30" in between.Cut the horizontal center-to-center (BB) to the samelength as the face. Respacers trieve the face, and keeping the ends and edges flush, glue and clamp the spacersto the face, where shownon Drawing 9. {

3/q' 119/q' 24Y4" MDF 3/+u 17s/q' 86Ya" MDF

3/+, 173/q' 323/+" MDF base sides narrow topsand s/q" gs/4" 2g1/2" MDF 3/qu 153/+' 281/2" MDF

L ylqq
'1 M N N 0 P 0 fi S T U V

wide fixed 3/+, 153/q' 281/2" MDF shelves narrow shelves 3/q' 83/4' 28' MDF wide shelves wide shelves short doors long doors wallbacks tallbacks base backs fronts cleats bottoms
3h' 143/q" 28" 3/4' 149/q' 28' 3/q" 133/ra" 61" 1/q' 29Y4' 24Y4" th" 291A" 84Y2" Y4u 29Y4" 31" MDF MDF

3/q" 133/1a"203/+" MDF MDF PH PH

3/+u 71/2,



t/2" pulls (1); wire bumpers 3"chrome self-adhesive WallCabinet: (4); (2pr,);24" (2)i,/2" hinges shelf standards overlay self-closing (1). (1); kitno. KlT0'1053, standard nails Order shelf supports shelf Hardware. Call 800-383-0130, orgoto Woodworke/s $20.49 wwhardware.com. t/2" pulls (1); wire bumpers 3"chrome self-adhesive Tallcabinet: (4lr;t/2" (4); (4li3/e-16x21/2" |eve|ers |eve|er brackets ouerlay (4); (5pr.);24" 60"shelf stanhinges shelf standards self-closing (1); (2), (4); kitno. nails Order supports shelf standard dards shelf Woodworke/s Hardw are, see above. KlT01 051, $49,51 (1); wire bumpers 3"chrome Base /2"self-adhesive Cabinet: 3/a-16x2t/zi (4);t/2" pulls (3); (4); overlay levelers leveler brackets (4); (2pr.\;24" shelf supports hinges shelf standards self-closing (1pr.); (1); (1); left-hand nails 14" drawer sides/slides shelf standard (1). (1); righlhand front bracket Order drawer front drawer bracket Woodworke/s Hardware, see above. kitno.K1T01052, $46.85 two Enough listed above lo build ofthehardware Totalsystem: kitno.K1T01054, Order ofeach cabinet. $169. Hardware, see above. Woodworker's given willbe forquantities than those above Note: Shipping other inmost will and cases calculated forthetotal cost ofthehardware prices given, thesum oftheindividual cabinet beless than


11/2' 2"



Yd' 131/q" 243/a" 1/2" 45/e' 24a/a'

W backs X backsplash




Y top
Z M tace

11/2' 17'




vertical spacers 3/+u 11/z' 21'

3/qu 1Y2'

Findmore plans at shelving and bookcase woodmagazine.com/shelvi ng

BB lglrgJlal

varies, theinstructions. see f Dimension varies, theinstructions. see ofparts tt Number Materials key:P-poplar, MDF-medium-density fiberboard, PH-perforated hardboard, LP-laminated poplar, plywood, BP-birch LMDF-laminated mediumdensitv fiberboard.

panhead #8x%" Supplies: #6xtl2" and screws; #8x11/2" flathead #8x11/t", and#8x21/2" , #8x2", wood #10-24x11/q" flathead machine screws; #10-24 nuts; #10 lock washers. screws; t/2" Forstner Blades andbits: Stack dado set. bit, 1/s" round-over router bits. and3/a"

f,l wonxBENcH

s/a x 48 x 96" Medium-densitv fiberboard

(4 bd. ft.) 96" Poplar


Poplar(2.7 bd. tt.\

a/,, #8x 2" F.H. "fo,/wood screw 7a"round-over /8" round-over


7 e z "s h a n k h o l e , countersunk on back face

1/2x24 x 48" Birch plywood

deep i7/aq"pilol hole 11/4" 1/a x 48 x 48" Perforated hardboard

#B x 1 1/q" F.H. wood screw



o o
s/a x 48 x 96" Medium-densitv fiberboard 1/qx48x48" Perforated hardboard s/q x 48 x 96" Medium-density fiberboard s/qx48 x 48" Medium-density fiberboard
3/qx51/z x 96" Poplar ( bd. ft.)


Note: The Cutting Diagrams shown represent the materials neededto b u i l de a c hc a b i n e t i n d i v i d u a l lF y. or moreefficient use of material, use thesediagrams as guides a n d m a k ea combined diagram for all the cabinets y o u p l a nt o b u i l d .
1/qx48 x 96" Perforated hardboard

s/q x 48 x 96" Medium-density fiberboard

s/q x 48 x 96" Medium-densitv fiberboard

3/qx51/z x 96" Poplar (4 bd. ft.)

1/+ x 48 x 96" Perforated hardboard

3 / q x 7 l / qx 9 6 " P o p l a r ( 5 . 3 b d . f t . )

3/q x 51/zx 96" Poplar (4 bd. woodmagazine.com


Set up the system

(like the one shownhere) Many garages havea protruding concretecurb at the bottom of one or more walls. Tall and basecabinetssitting directly on the floor cannotbe pushedtightly against

the wall. For a solutionto this problem, seethe Shop Tip, bottom.The six steps, below, show how to setup the storage systemshownon page 98. Usethese instructionsas a guide for settingup your own cabinetconfiguration.Now

straightenout your garage,throw out the junk, and storethe good stuff in your |l new cabinets.
Writtenby Jan Svec with Chuck Hedlund Projectdesign:Jeff Mertz Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson lllustrations:

Tool board

Step 1 Check the floor for levelwhere you will place the cabinets. Position blocking under the front levelers.Start at the high end and level the first tall cabinet. Drill holes, and screw the cabinet to the wall studs.

Step 2 Add the base cabinets, aligning the bottoms and front edges with the tall cabinet. Screw them to the wall. Position the worktop, inserting 7c"shims behind it. Drill holes, and screw the worktop to the base cabinets.
i t

Step 3 Removethe shims, and rest the tool board on the top edge of the backsplash. Drill countersunk screw holes through the tool board and into the wall studs. Screw the tool board to the wall.

| ,:,::

.,:,:, ::::;:

Step 4 Rest the first wall cabinet on the top edge of the toolboard tight against the tall cabinet. Drill holes through the cabinet -back and drive the screws. Position the second cabinet, and screw it to the wall.

Step 5 Add the second tall cabinet, align it, and screw it to the wall. Mark and cut a trim board to fit between the floor and the bottoms of the cabinets. Drill holes through the trim board and screw it to the blocking.

Step 6 Retrievethe hinge spacer,and using it to position each bottom hinge, hang the doors. On the tall doors, flip the center hinge leaf onto the stile, drill pilot holes, and drive the screws.Installtheshelvesand drawers.

Hopping the curb gains inches

In most garages,every squareinch of floor space counts.lf your preventing your garagehas a low curb at the perimeter tightlyagainst the frombeingpushed storage systemcabinets inches,here'sa way to get overit. wall,hoggingup valuable of dimensionlumber thicknesses Select a combination (pressure-treated on the bottom)that comes close to the lengthof heightof the curb.Cut the piecesto the combined rear Withthe cabinet the cabinets, and screwthemtogether. blocking levelers the dimension-lumber on the curb,position where shown at right.When all the underthe front levelers, to decking are in place,screwa pieceof composite cabinets the blocking and the blocking to hide it and the gap between the cabinets. 106

1" composite decking trim board #8 x 2" F.H. wood screw

Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers



Reuoluing Storage
With this three-sided kiosk, you can transform an 18x18" space into the equivalent of 4x6' of tool storage board. The secret? Your tools revolve on a lazySusanbearing.
Here's how Louis Grivetti of Latonia, Kentucky, squeezed a lot of storageinto a small amount of floor spacein his shop:a rotating tool kiosk. Start by ripping the perforated hardboard to width, joining the three pieces with plastic cable ties, as shown at right, then cutting and fitting the triangular plywood top and bottom. Don't attach the ends to the sidesjust yet, though. Drill a 1" hole in the center of each triangle, and attach a 3" lazy-Susanbearing (part no. 28951, Rockler Woodworking -and Hardware, 800-279-4441or rockler. com) to the bottom. Centerar;/ro" holeVz" deep in the plywood floor anchor. Posi' tion the bottom's 1" hole overthe anchor's hole, and attach the other side of the lazySusan bearing to the floor anchor. You'll need to drill an accesshole in the bottom to drive the screwsinto the floor anchor. Using construction adhesive, cement the floor anchor.to the floor at least 18" from the wall, and let it cure. Attach tlte top and bottorn triangles inside the perforated-hardboardsides with screws,run ' a length of 3/q" conduit through the holes, thenslip the conduit into the anchor hole as you standup the kiosk. When the conduit is plumb, secure it to a ceiling joist with a conduit strap.Finally, hang storage hooks in the peg holes, and your tools on the hooks. .l .
woodmagazine.com ' ,



Storage Workshop
"This unit was designedand built to bring order out of the chaosin my workshop,"explainedreaderBernardMonneauof Calgary, Alberta, in his letter to us. We liked his idea so much, of mixing plastictubs and shelves shop we built one for theWOODo magazine and invite you to constructone for your work areaas well. The design centers around plastic storage tubs of the type sold in home centers and large discount stores.Our unit houses Tote 3-galRubbermaidRoughneckStorage Adjust the project lon/I1.3-litercontainers. dimensionsaccordingly if you use a different sizetub. The entire project, minus the optional shelves and cleats.is built out of two sheets birch plywood would also work of MDF (3/+" well). See the Cutting Diagram for optimal usage. sheet-goods To build the project, cut the parts to the sizesnotedon the drawing below.Rout a %" round-over along the one exposededge of eachIVzxlVz"cleatand along the top edgeof cleat where shown.(The roundeach3/qx3/q" over on the interior cleats allows the tubs Then, drill the countersunk to slide easier.) mounting holesthrough all parts where noted. Glue and screwthe two dividersbetween the two sides.Next, attach the top, bottom, centerpartitions,and cleats.Mount the interior support cleats allowing just an inch top to bottom, between or two of clearance, |l Attach the casters. containers.



#8 x2" F.H.wood screw




l G


t/e"round-over #8 x 2" F.H. wood screw


As an option, use 10V2x16" shelves in place of some or all of the tubs.


*Dimension willdepend uponthe size of your tubs.


Gutting Diagram


#8x11/4'F.H. wood screw

#8 x 2" F.H. wood screw

1t/zx1lzx32s/q" cleat

e/tx 49 x 97"Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) (2 needed) creats outside


Pine (4 bd. ft.) 11/2x31/2x72"

/s" round-over

3/+x51/z x 96" Pine (4 bd. ft.) lnside cleats 3 / q x 3 1 / z x9 6 " P i n e ( 2 . 7 b d . f t . )

4" fixedcaster

i i,/-

# 8x 2 " F . H . woodscrews


Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008

Tapes-to-go Wall-hung Dispensers

Hang them at a convenientheight, and lift off only the dispensersyou need.
tart by determining how many rolls of tape you use EXPLODED VIEW Hacksawbladecrosscut #8 x 1" F.H.woodscrew in your shop.Then, create to widthof tape plus s/ro" 1/zu a dispenser for each,as dit) mensioned in the drawingat right. #19xt/2" wirenaiL WALL MOUNT -I -+a Note that the interior width of eachdispenser is %0"wider than #8 x 2" F.H. the roll of tapeit holds.Createthe wood screw discs to be glued to the sidesof centeredover stud r/qx 1s/a"diam. the dispenser by tracingthe inside or 2z/a"diam. opening of each roll of tape onto Vq" hardboard, and cutting them round on a bandsawor scrollsaw or cuttingthemwith a circlecutter. 3q:"1 ,n" n^ritb6lr, In our shop,all of our rolls of tape f I usedeither a l3/s"or 27/s" diameter #8xs/a"F.H.--/ 3aAa,, f ll disc (%" smallerthan the taperoll wood screw I s/'ra x sAa F--^^"^-. I insidediarneter). rabbet Whenassembling eachdispenser, don't _elue one of the sidesin place.To load a new roll of tape, # 8 x e / q "F . H . simply remove the two screws wood screws from one side to gain access. A Removable side,allowing piece of hacksawblade servesas accessto add or replace tape. a cutter. Now,build the wall mountasdimensioned. Attach the wall mount DISPENSER in placeusing fasteners appropriINSERTING ate to your shop wall. To hang a A DISPENSER dispenserfrom the wall mount, SECTION VIEW lift the front end of the dispenser Drywall while insertingthe top edgeof the Rabbeted cleat WALL back into the rabbetedcleat of the STUD, wall mount, where shownat right. The projectis designed so you can pull tape from a dispenser Seemore seated in the wall mount or removethe shopprojectplansat wood magazine.com/shoptools dispenser from the mount and set it on your workbench.cF



Project design: Jeff Mertz




Rock-Solid Workbench
Build this sturdy workhorsein a weekend,and add features as you needthem.
Begin with the base
Start by selectingclean, straight dimensional lumber (2x2s,2x4s and 2x6s) for thebase. You'llneedtwo 2x2s8' long,five 2x4s 8' long, and two 2x6s 8' long. The drier the stock you can select, the less chance of troublesome warpage. If the stock is wet, let it dry as long as possible in your shop before machining. Rip and crosscutall the parts to the sizes listed in the Materials List. When cutting the pieces to width, we ripped both edges to remove the round-overs found on all dimensionallumber. If you plan on using the workbench behind your tablesawas an outfeed table, adjust the overall height dimensions so that the tabletop sits about 1/+" lower than your tablesawtop. Also, we built our workbenchfor someone about5' 10" tall to work comfonably. If you'd like your workbenchshorteror taller, adjust leg parts I and K accordingly. Using the drawing at right for reference, glue and screw the base together.Cut the lower shelf (E) to fit in the opening, drill the mounting holes,and screwit in place.

?9:-Spacerand jaw faces cut per manufacturer's Vise #8 x 3" F.H. wood screw

s/e-16x 4" F.H. machinescrew


%0"shank hole

#8 x 1sla" F.H. wood screw


#8 x 3" F.H. wood screw

Add the sturdy top

You can laminzite stock to form the top, or do as we did and purchasea solid-core door. Slightly damageddoors often can be purchased at a substantial discount from home centersand other outlets. Using the previously drilled shank holes in the cleats(H), securethe top to the base. 110

nrGIr.fr wood screws/

? / 40 ,. /)tr E U ..,^^l #8 x 3" F.H.wood screw #B x 2yz" F.H. wood screw

Project Design: Jeff Mertz Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2008

lower rails B

1Y2' 3u


lower end rails 1Y2' 3" 19" C lo,W long 1yz, 1y2, 57, C shelf 6 shelf short 11/2" O lo,weJ 1/2, 1g,, C E F G H J K lower shelf upper rails cross cleats legs
3/q" 16" 57' SG

2 2

How to Upgrade Your Workbench

Fewworkshopitems hold as much raw potentialas your bench.Here'show to tap into its full usefulness.
holes into the top for bench dogs to increase the vise'sholdingcapacity. That still leftplentyof waysto makeour bench more accommodating, versatile, and solid. After all, workbenches earn their place at the heart of your shop because they'remultipurposetoolsfor everythingfrom grippinga delicate carving to providing a level slab for assembling furniture.With these you'll make add-ons, your benchreadyfor nearlyanything.

1Yz" 5" 1Y2' 3"

57' 19" 16" 6"


2 2 2

upper end rails 1Y2' 5"

1Y2' 3u 321/z' C

lower dividers 1y2' 3"

ike a tablesaw without a dado blade, Materials key:C-choice pine, ofspruce, orfir;SG-choice sliding cutoff table, or other helpful goods (We ofsheet used MDF). add-ons, a bare-bones workbench is a iesr#8x1%" Suppf flathead wood screws, #8x2lz" flathead workshop staple that becomes several wood #8x3" screws, flathead wood screws, #12x21/z times more helpful after you accessorize it. 3/a-16x4" panhead wood screws, flathead machine screws, you So can understand why we couldn't let 3/e" %"flatwashers, lock nuts. our basicworkbench,shownopposite,stay g"jaw. Hardware: G9851 Shop Fox Vise, Quick-Release basicfor long. Call Grizzly Industrial, 800-523-4777, orgoto $69.95, For starters, grizzly.com. we supplemented the base Seemore shop project plans at wtrod ma gazi ne "corn /shoptoo Is

upper dividers 1Yz' 3" 181/2"C

with a hefty, solid-coredoor top and an affordable9" quick-release vise. We drilled

Six-pack of upgrades
1 50 poundsof addedweight p. 112 for stability, 2 Threetooltotes, p. 113 3 Threewidedrawers for toolsand plans,p. 115 4 Paperrollholderfor protecting the top,p. 116 power 5 Surgeprotector slrip,p. 116 6 Glue-up p. 117 clampholder,






Add weight for stability
Maybe you've been there: With a workpiece clamped in your vise, you muscle a plane down a board edge, causingthe benchto go for a little walk. Workbenches, unlike woodworkers, can't be too weighty when push comes to shove.True, the MDF lower shelf and solid-core benchtop add heft, but more weight means more stability. For the price of a 50-pound bag of sand and a second piece of 3/q"MDF cut to 16x57", you can turn a bantambench baseinto a heavyweight. The cleatsinsidethe lowerrail that support the shelf also bracethe secondMDF sheet holding your ballast in place. To removethe benchtop make thejob easier, before you turn the frame upside down. Then pour the sandinto the shallow tray formed by the shelf and lower rail cleats, the sandevenly, as shownat right. Spread keepingit off the tops of the cleats.

Test-fit the shelf bottom to ensure a leak-free fit. Then drill and countersink screw holes. Run a thick bead of glue along the top of the cleats,lay the shelf bottom within the frame, and secure it with #8x1/s" wood screws. Allow the glue to dry beforeturning the benchback on its legs.

The cavity beneath the shelf holds a 50-pound bag of sand to keep the bench from becoming top-heavy.

Pick a benchtop that meets your needs

maple Because ot its hardnessand weight,a shop-made butcher-blocktop is the ultimatework surface, but.lt's to make.Hereare some also costly and time-consuming
sturdy, time-saving options: Sofid-core door. The door used atop the bench opposite fiberboard(MDF)core between has a 1t/2" medium-density t/a" lauanskins.With pinetrim stripson the sides,thoughnot the ends,the door is 30" wide by 80" long.Doorssavetime they comecut to sizeand readyto finish.We bought because this one at a homecenterfor $43. Youalsocan find discountand millwork stores. ed returns and secondsat lumberyards two piecesoI e/+' Medium-densityfiberboard. Gluetogether the edges, MDF,and trimthe edgesflush.To avoiddamaging gluemapletrim strips to allfour. By making the trim stripst/+" higherthan the top surfaceof you can the panels, lay a sheet of 1/4" temperedhardboard atopthe MDF to createa durable, easy-to-replace work Drilla1" surface. holeintothe MDF to pushthe hardboardawayfrom the

piece. dropping in a fresh A 3o"-wide topcan't benchtop befors froma single 48x96'sheet, which costusabout be made S23 pieces fromtwosheets to locally, butyoucanusetheleftover

makethe 16x57"lowershelfand a cap for addingsandto anis that it provides of this material chorthe bench.An advantage weight.Howa dead-flat surfaceand plentyof much-needed resistance to breaking, especially ever,it doesn'thaveplywood's if weightis appliedto the overhanging areasof the benchtop. piecestogether, and trim the Plywood. Glue two V+"-thick edgessquarewith the surface.Then add trim stripsand a top, as with the MDF.You'llneedtwo temperedhardboard BC sheetsof plywoodto makethis top. One 4x8' sheetol s/q" pine plywoodcost us $25. Plywoodis a durablechoice,but is not as consistently flat as MDF. Manufactured butcher block. Wantthe butcherblocklookwithout the work? Buy i prefabricated maple top. A 17+x30x96" top, no. G9916, that can be trimmed to fit this benchis plusship$249.95, ping, from Grizzly Industrial, 800-5234777 or grizzly.com.


Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers





\ \'' \\ \'\ \
Temporary support blocks

- \ l


Tooltotes that stow or go
If a project can't come to your tools, take your tools to the project in theseeasy-on, easy-off tool lotes.

From -/-r"MDF, cut the top and bottom (A), sides(B), and back (C) to the dimensionson the Materials List on Trrrge 114.(The tool totes share the same size cases as the drawers on poge 115.)If you plan to build both, savetime now by doubling the number of tops, bottoms, sides, and backs that you cut.) Cut two pieces of lth" square stock to a length of 26t/s,"for the cleats (D) to hang the case from the workbench woodmagazine.com

Buildthe tool tote case

frame. Next, make the dividers (E) and retainers (F) from /-+" hardboard. Use hardboard that's smooth on two sides,or substitute /+" MDF. Cut t/1" grooves 3/8" deep, where shown in the top and bottom (A). From a scrap of 3/t" MDF, cut a strip that's-/-r"wide by 18".Cut a /+" groove 3/s"deep along one f-aceto use as a guide. Place the guide on the top edge of the dividers (E) to serve as a3A" spacer.Now, glue and clarnp on the retainers(F) to the dividers, where shown. Glue the retainers (F) to the cabinet sides(B), aligning rhem flush on each end and flush on the top edges.

Attach the cleats (D) to the top of the tool tote case, where shown on the drawing on page I14. Glue and screw the case together. We finished the case and totes with Watco Danish Oil. When attachingthe caseto the bench, use blocks like those shown above to support the case while driving screws through the bench and into the cleats.


Tool Totes and Gase Materials List

bottomitop B sides
C back D cleats
e/eo 10%0" 18'lla" MDF 3/tu 1o/ra" 26Va" MDF 2 1


#8x2" F.H.wood screw


11/zu26Va" c


E dividers retainers
G tooltoteends H tooltotesides I

18Vq" HB Y4u 1O1Vta"

18Y4" HB


18Y4" C

tool totehandles 1"diam. 173/q' B

17Y4" HB 6V2" C 4'

3 1t

J tmlbte botbms Y4u 7u

K glue divider

tQuantity your glue needs. will vary with storage fiberboard; density tatedals key:MDF-medium pine, orfir. HB-hardboard; B-birch; C-choice ofspruce, fIath wood rews, ie: #8x11 #8x2", #8x2t/2" ead sc /2", Suppf dado set,2Yz" and %"drillbits BhdesA Bils:Stack pu|ls (01A57,65)(3), Haldwalg3t/cx2" catd-trame $S.00 orleevalley.com. each; Lee Valley at800-871-8158,

l-----' #8x2" F.H.wood screw


I )


1" hofe Vz"deep 1Y2' 7+"rabbets Vz" deep





#8 x 2" F.H.

3/ro" hole


F.H.woodscrew #8 x 11/2"

7gz" shank hole.countersunk

t/+"grooves l+" deep th" lrom bottom edge

3/c"-thickpine, cut the tool tote { From I ends (G) and sides(H) to the dimensions in the Materials List above. Cut W' grooves /+" deep and /q" from the' bottom edge of the sidesand ends to hold the drawer bottoms (J) as shown on the drawing above. Cut the bottoms to size. rabbets W' deepon each f)Cut 3/q"-wide knd,of the sides.For the tote to fit the' case, its width should be Ve" narrower

On to the tool totes

than the case opening, and the sides shouldbe Vro"lessthan the openingsbetween the casebottom (A) and the lower edgesof the drawer retainers (F). {lDrill a l"-diameterhole,whereshown, 9for the handle (I) on each of the tote ends. Now, glue and screw the tool totes together,as shown in the drawing. llFor the optional glue dividers (K), cut tttre number desiredto the dimensions shown. and drill holes to fit the bottles.

(The 2W-diameter holes fit the diameter of common 16-ounceglue bottles.) Attach the glue dividers, where shown. fSand all parts to 150 grit, and apply rJtwo coats of Watco Danish Oil. Then drill two %e" holes, where shown, and attachthe pulls, where shownabove.


Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers


Stacking.drawersfor specrarsrorage
These stacking drawers store tools you need to protect but still use every day, measuring instruments and chisels to name a few.

Cut 3/+" MDF to the dimensions given I in the Materials List to makethe top and bottom (A), sides(B), and back (C). ffCut V+"grooves3/s" deep on the sides A(g),where shownon the drawingbelow. t/q"hardboardglides (D) ro {lNow cut \Jsize. Glueandclampthe drawerglides to the sides(B) so that the endsare flush. ,{ Next, glue and screwthe casetogeth-?er, as shownon the drawing. f,Attach the cleats(E) to the top of the Vcase. as shown. {

Build a tool drawer case

Three-Drawer Gase Materials List

bottom/tops B sides C back D glides cleats
3/c,' 1O|Aa" 1g1/q" MDF 2

3/n"10Va" 26Va MDF 1

1/tu 11/a' 18ya" 11/z' 1/z' 26Va' HB C 4

From 3/q"pine, cut the drawer fronts I and backs (F) and sides (G) to size. Cut a V+"gtoove V+"deep,where shown. f)Cut3/q" rabbets/2" deepon both endsof &the dr awer side s.Dr iIl sAz" countersunk pilot holesz/i' fromthe edgeswhereshown. {lCut the drawer bottoms (H) from V+" \Jhardboard. Glue and screwthe drawers together, as shown in the drawing. {

Assemblethe three drawers

Allow the drawer bottom to float loose within the slots. / Sand all parts to 150 grit, and apply 'ftwo coatsof WatcoDanishOil finish. two 3/ro"holes into the fronts fiDrill \r(F), and attachthe drawerpulls. lftAttach the completedcaseto the un\Jderside of the bench rails using 2/2" wood screws,similar to the way the tool tote casewas installed on page 113.

dnawer fronWbacks G drawer sides

#8x2" F.H.woodscrew
31/s' 24y4' C 6

3/c" 31/a" 18Tn"

H drawer bottoms 1/a" 17/c' 23s/c' HB 3 .Parts initially cutoversize. See theinstructions. Materials key:MDF-medium density fiberboard, HB-hardboard, pine, C-choice ofspruce, orfir, Suppf ies:#8x11/2", #8x2", #8x2lz" flalhead wood screws. Blades & Bits:Stack dado set. Hardware: pulls (01A57.65) 3r/qx2" (3), card-frame $S.OO each; call Lee Valley at800-871.8158, orgoto leevalley.com.

\ -l s/sz" shank hole, count"rrunt

t/aq" pilol hole 1th" deep

F= !--

r l-

#8 x 2" F.H.wood screw 26Ve'



Ta"rabbets t/z" deep



7sz" shankhole.

-\ #8 x 2" F.H. wood screw
l #8 x 11/z'F.H. wood screw



241/4' 1s/ta"l ___tt-I


t/+"grooves t/+"deePt/q"lrom bottom edge



4: Upgrade
Add benchtop protection
Seeking a way to protect your bench during finishing work? Add the 30"-wide paper roll holder, shown at right, to the undersideof your overhangingbenchtop. The only part you need to make is a block to mount the metal roll holder (see Sources) to the bench.We cut ours from aZxB with the factory edgesremoved, as shown on the drawing below. After sanding the block to 150 grit, apply two coats of Watco Danish Oil. Now, center the roll holder on the mounting block, and attach it using #&xIW' panhead screws. Drill countersunk pilot holes in the mounting block. Then center and attach the paper roll holder to the bench. Expect the mounting block to extendabout 1" pastthe edge of the workbench on the front and back. Insert the paper roll as directed in the manufacturer's instructions.

Wbrkbench extras
In addition to workbench accessories you make, there's a host of helpful items you can buy. Check these out: Bench dogs. No mortising is required with the 7a"brass bench dogs shown below.Simply drills/+" holesfor them to sit in.A spring clipholdsthemin place, for deliand plasticpadsare available cate work.Adjustable benchdogs,as power shownbelow,provide clamping used with or withoutthe benchvise. Hold-downs, These providevertical clamping pressure to secure workpiecesanywhere on the benchwhere there'sas/+" hole. lYheels. Our bench lacks wheels because we wanted a solid stance morethan mobility. Wheretightspace requires a movable bench, opt for lockingcasterswith a 150-pound capacity (each)and rubber4"-diameter tiresthat grip the floor.

7sz" shank hole.countersunk on bottomface #8x2lz" F.H.woodscrew.mounted to bottomof bench MOUNTING BLOCK

quick Vise. Shop Fox release, #G9851, 9"vise, $69.95 grizzly,com, lndustrial, Call Grizzly 800-523-4777; Bench dogs,holddom acoesfofies,. 4{a" (#05G (#05G04.04, 04. 02,$26.70/pai r) and 2Va" round bench dogs; adjustable bench $21.70/pai0 (#05G10.02, dogs #05G10.03, $31.50; $38,50); pads, (#05G14.01, hold-down, bench dog $69.00); (#05G04.10, Lee Valley at800-871$2.80/pai0, leevalley.com. 8158; Paper roll holdet andpaper,30" Butcher Paper (18100-A500-30, Dispenser and 30"x800' $31,95) paper (190318, roll from of50# butcher $32.95), POSpaper.com, 877-469-7655.

ROLL HOLDER panhead screw #8 x 11/4"

Plug into convenience
When you add a heavy-duty power center to your workbench, you eliminate the inconvenience anddangeroftripping over multiple extensioncords on the floor. Selecta power strip with a metal case for impact resistanceand a cord long enoughto reach a wall outlet in the least traveled part of your shop. Most model's surge-blockingability protects the electronics in today's battery chargers,and numerous outlets accommodatemultiple tools and a rechargeror two. 116

Most power strips have mounting holes in the back panel. Select sheet-metal screwsto fit these holes. We positioned power strip so it could be our metal-cased lifted free for replacement. Carefully route the cord under the bench to avoid the drawers, if added, or possibledamagecausedwhile you work at the bench. Periodicallycheckthe power strip outlets and cord for wear or damage.Always plug three-prong cords into grounded three-prong wall outlets.Follow any local electrical code restrictionsthat may apply.

Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers


Upgrade 6:
Turn vour bench into a glue-up station
Nobody enjoysscrapingglue globs off a workbench. Save time and hassleswith this pipe clamp glue-up table designed specifically to fit our 30x80" door. The hardboardbase catchesthe drips, while the rack steadies up to eight clamps spaced6" apart.Holes in the baseallow you to hangit on a wall betweenglue-ups. We designedthis glue table to lse 3/q" pipe clampslike thoseshownat right.To hold other types of clamps, modify the shapeof the notchesaccordingly.

The glue-up station's sliding railsupports clamps close to the workpiece, allowing you to size clamp lengths to suit the project.

Build the glue-up station

From 2x4s andtA" hardboard,cut the I parts to the sizeslisted in the Materiafs List and drawings below. Rip both edges of the 2x4s to remove the factory edgesand squarethe stock. f)To make the notchesin the fixed rail Zfelshown in the Parts View, first drill a seriesof lVz"holes 3A"fromthe top edge of the workpiece. We set up a fence and drilled them on the drill pressfor greater consistency. Turn the holes into notches, as shown,using a jigsaw or handsaw. {lTo house the dowels, drill a pair of Vy4" holes 3/+"deep in the fixed rail, where shown. Drill t/e" holes through the slidingrail (B). and cut notches in the sliding /lDrill "frail (B) using the dimensionsshown. f,Cut the glides (C) from Vq"hardboard, t/and round over the edges. Glue them to theloweredgeof theslidingclampsupport, centeringthem under the dowel holes. {

Cut out the glide supports (D), as shown. Then cut two pieces of 3/q" dowel to 28W' long for the guide bars (E). JCut a piece of Vq"hardboard to the I dimensions indicated to make the base(F). Drill two 1" holes,whereshown, to hang the rack on the wall. flSand woodenparts to 150 grit. Finish ||Jthem wittr nvo coats ofWatcoDanishOil. the unit as shown, taking QAssemble r/care to avoidgluing the sliding clamp supportto the dowels.al
Written by Bob Wilson Project design: Jeff Mertz lllustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson D=11Aa



s/c"hole e/+" deep on inside face


ik l)
to fit your clamp bars.,

Glue-Up Station Materiils List

1 1/2'


fixed rail B sliding rail C glides

E guide bars
1Y2' 23/au 48' 1Y2' HB 2 V4u 1Y2'

D glide supporb 1Y2" 2'

3/q" diam. Y4u 30"

4', 28y2' 48"

P HB 1

F base ,r.--*-

Location oi@
#8 x 1" F.H.wood screw-l

p-poplar, Materials key:HB-hardboard, C-choice of pine, spruce, orfir. Supplies: #8x1", flathead wood screws. 3/4,, Blades & Bits: t/s" rou nd. ove r bil;1t /2", 1",7/8", and drill bits.


Work 3-in-1 Support


FI PLATTORM TOP El Great as an assemb l y o r f i n i s h i n gs t a n d , this top is alsoa handy place to stack parts while machining.

: L


when you need to support the end of a long workpiece on your drill press or mitersaw.

E 39""'"13;

Eil ROLLER TOP El Adjust this top's height to catch the outfeed from your tablesaw or planer. {rPti:-

: \



Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008

uprights'edges, whereshownin Step 2. Now form the half-laps anddrill the hole, where shownin Step 3. t/qx4t/axI6va"pieces of QCut four LIstock, and glue and clamp them together in pairs to form two lr/2"-thick blanks for the feet (C). Joint and trim them to size. Make four photocopies of the Foot pattern on Drawing First,build a sturdy base 5, page 122, and cut them out along -r Cut four t/qx2vax29" piecesof stock, the lines. Tape the half-patternstogether i and glue and clamp them togetherin to form the whole foot. (Half of eachpatpairs to form two lVz"-thtckblanks for the tern will be facedown.)Adherethe patterns uprights(A). Joint and trim rhem to rhe to the foot blankswith sprayadhesive. size listed in the Materials List. Install ,d Form half-laps, where indicated on t*the a dado blade in your tablesaw, pattern, to mate with the laps at and plow groovesin the uprights,whereshownon the bottoms of the uprights. Now bandDrawing 1, Step 1. Cut the fillers (B) to sawand sandthe feetto the patternlines. size, and glue and clamp them in piace, Removethe patterns.Glue and clamp the where shown. The fillers' and the upfeet to the uprights.When the glue dries, rights' bottomendsare flush. sandthejoints smooth. Setthe leg assem,."iwith the dadobladein your tablesaw, blies (A,B,C) aside. -,L*form the dadoesand rabbetsin the t/qx4v2.x96" ffiPlane two to#boards to t/z"thick. From one, cut the six rails (D) to size. Set the other board aside for the top supports 2" rabbets (G). From l"-thick stock,cut 1/2" deep 5/ro" hole (E) to size.Make the spacers the spacer jig, shown on Drawing 2. Glue and clamp spacers to eachend of three rails, as shownin Photo A. 11s/a' Then glue and clamp a third I spacerat the rails' centers, whereshownon Drawing 4. lftStand the two legs up+*Fright on your workbench. Spread glue in the lower dadoesin one edge of each z', upright,and slip in one rail/ spacers assembly. Spread 1" grooVe glue in the dadoes in the uprights' other edges and on the spacers, and clampa second rail in place, as shown 2" dadoes on Drawing 4. Repeatthis t/2"deep process for the other two 31/z' lap on rail/spacer/rail assemblies. outside I Make surethe rails' endsare face flush with the uprights' outz', sidefacesand that the whole assembly is square. lthetheryou're machining long stock or simply looking for a place to rest your workpiece, you'll find this versatilestand ready to help. With adjustable height and interchangeableglide, roller, and platform tops, it's a perfect match for any numberof tasks.

jig to the railshelps Clamping the spacer you accurately position the endspacers. end on one edgeof the extensions, where shown on Drawing 4a. Chuck a 3/4" straightbit in your table-mounted router, and in %" increments, rout the stopped grooves,as shown in Photo B. Square the endsof the grooves with a chisel. -+\Drill the s/ro"hole, where shown on di*Drawing 4a.Bandsawand sandthe (The bottomshaveonly roundedcorners. one rounded corner.) Cut two pieces of aluminum mini-track (a type of T-track) to length, drill screw pilot holes, and screwthe tracksin place.Seethe Source on page 120 for our mini-track supplier. *pRetrieve your previously planed Vz" q#stock and cut the top supports(G) to size.Drill counterbores near the endsof threesupports, whereshownon Drawing 4b. Tapea second supportto the onesjust counterbored,and, centering the bit in the counterbore,drill s/to"holes through the paired supports. Mark the radius on the corners,as shown,and bandsaw and

I uenrcnr






STEP 1 Insideface

STEP2 Outside face
STEP 2 Outsideface

Add extensions and tops

{ From l" stock,cut the ex(F) to size. E tensions Mark a stop line for the groove's

Mark the bit location on your fence. Stop routing when the stop line on the extension aligns with the mark on the fence.



sandthe corners.To ensureperfecthole alignment,keep the pairs togetheruntil you are ready to glue them to their respective tops. Cut the tops(H) to size.Install a dado ,rg ktFblade in vour tablesaw. and cut the groou"r, as shown in Drawing centered 4c for the glide top and Drawing 4 for the roller top. Cut a strip of %"-thickUHMW plastic to fit the glide top's groove width and length. Adhere it in the groove with double-facedtape. See the Source for our UHMW supplier. bladeto l5o.Clamp ffiTilt your tablesaw qJthe glide top to a tAx5t/qx36"carrier board, and cut the bevels,as shown on Drawing 3 and in Photo C. The glide strip's protruding edges are beveled in this operation. Standthe glide top on end, clampit to the carrierboard,andbevelthe ends,as shownin Photo D. Repeatwith the roller top. Sandthe bevelssmooth. ffiSlide the extensions(F) into the Ubase. and securethem with bolts and T-knobs,as shownon Drawing 4. Select a pair of top supports(G) and install the T-nuts. Fasten the supports to the extensionswith studdedT-knobs.See the Source for our T-knob supplier. Apply glue to the top edgesof the supports,and


A carrier board stabilizesthe glide top for bevel-ripping.

clampthe glide top to them,centered and equally overhangingthe ends. Remove the clamped assembly before the glue glue,and setit dries,cleanup any excess aside.Repeatwith the roller top. (I) to size, and miterffCut the panel f cut the ends (J) and sides(K) to fit aroundit, as shownon Drawing 4. Glue andclampthe endsandsides to the panel. Fastenthe last pair of top supportsto the panel using the sameprocedureas with the glide and roller tops.

A. uprights B fillers C* feet D rails

11/2" 2" 1/+u 1u

283/+' 31/z' M

Time to disassemble, finish,and reassemble


11/z' 4"
1/z' 2'


E spacers
F extensions


11/2" 247/e M

G top supports
H tops I J panel ends

1/z' 2'
1" 53/q'


M BP M M 1

3/+" 141/2" 28' 3/q' 1|/zu 16" 11/z' 291/2"

3/+, K sides -Parts initially cut oversize.

Remove the extensions from the base, I and the mini-track from the extensions.Removeall the T-knobsand bolts. Leavethe T:nutsandUHMW strip in place. dlFinish-sand all the parts and as4semblies to 220 grit. Remove the sandingdust, apply two coats of polyurethane, sanding between coats with (We wipedon General 22}-gritsandpaper. FinishesArmour Seal,following the directions on the can.) {}When the finish dries, reinstall the Vmini-track in the extensions. and slide {

Usethe samecarrierboardto safely bevelthe ends. them into the base, securingthem with bolts, washers, and T:knobs.Drill screw pilot holes, and fasten the ball-bearing rollers in place,as shownon Drawing 4. Mount your choiceof topsto the extensions |l with studded T-knobsand washers.
Writtenby Jan Svec with Kevin Boyle ProjectDesign:Kevin Boyle lllustrations : o x a n n eL e M o i n e ; L o r n a J o h n s o n R

Materials key:LM-laminated maple, M-maple, plywood. BP-birch r1o" ies:t/a' (4), (6), Suppf flatwashers T-nuts yqxle/q" (2), hexhead bolts spray adhesive, double-faced finish. tape,

Gutting Diagram

Hardware. 48" mini{rack aluminun w/tape, no.145825, T-knobs M /r" insert, no. 85J95, $19.99; (2); (2); T-knobs wl t/qx2" stud, no.27R16, $1.19 $1.19 t/sx4x48" s7"' plastic, UHMW no.124225, ball-bear$8.99; (9). ingrollers no. M screws, 07809, $2.99 Available from Woodcraft. Call 800-225-1153. oroo towoodcraft.com. e/qx7t/c x 96" Maple(5.3 bd. ft.) .Plane or resawto the thicknesses listedin the Materials List.

s / q x S t / zx 9 6 " M a p l e ( 4 b d . f t . ) Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2008


1/ax2x 28" UHMWplastic


2" groove t%0" deep

2" groove t/o" deep

1/q" tlal washer

7+" counterbore /e" deep, with a s/ro"hole centered inside

vtEW [| exeloDED

1/q x 2" T-knob

Aluminum mini-track
21t/+" long



t v-)z-lg
r I J f.A\-l Ta" counterbore t/a" deep, with a s/ro"hole centered inside

F.H. woodI

I 35/a' #4 x't/2" I


1 7 / a l,r l 1 " l r l
1/zu' 1/2"

1/q x 2" T-knob

3/q x 41/zx 96" Maple (9.3 bd. ft.)

3/4 x 41/2 x 96" Maple (3.3 bd. ft.)


x71/qx 96" Maple (6.7 bd. tt.)(S/4stock)

3/qx 141/z x

28" Birchplywood



s/q"groove %" deep Aluminum mini-track on insideface 211/4" long





o (E o-* (s(D T'o



Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers


Auxiliary Table Forbig-time

cutting support
aul Anthony, a WOOD@magazine reader from Pigelsville, Pennsylvania, relieson this handy table to help him rip long boards, as shown near right He also usesit to rough-cutlarge sheetsof plywood,far right. To cut sheetgoods,Paul pulls the table away from his saw,attachesa cutting guide to the panel and makes the first cut with his circular saw.Next, he removesthe waste,slidesthe panel over to the tablesaw, and trims it to size.When not usedfor cutting, the table servesas a surfacefor project assembly. Having a big outfeed tableat the far end of yoursawis the bestwayto keepcontrolover longboards or sheetgoodsduringthe cut. and use that as a guide to determinethe total height of the table that includes the melaminetop, legs,and lag screws. (SeeDrawing 1.)You'll want to keepthe table's height just below the saw table so you can adjust up to it with the lag screws.Paul attachedthe aprons to the join2x2" legs using mortise-and-tenon ery (seeDrawing 1a) to combatthe stress encounteredwhen the table is dragged aroundthe shopto fill different needs. Pullingthe tableawayfrom the saw transforms Paul'soutfeedtable into a plywoodcrosscutting station. After cuttingthe partsto size,mill the tenonson the tablesaw. Cut the mortises with your mortiser or drill press.Tesrfit the aprons and legs, and then measure the center rail to fit and cut the biscuit slots,whereshown.Next,drill the pocket screw holes for attaching the top. After cutting and drilling the parts, glue and clamp the apronsto the legs. To make the top, cut the 7+"melaminecoatedparticleboardto size,then cut and attach the edging with glue. Screw the top to the rails; then flip the table over and insert the lag-screwlevelers.Adjust the table height so it's about Vq"below the height of your saw.Finally, mark the location of your saw's miter gaugeslots onto the tabletopand rout thesegrooves so the top doesn'tinterferewith the travel of your miter gaugeor any jigs that use theseslots.al

How to make the sturdv auxiliaryoutfeed table

To constructPaul'sauxiliary table,first measure the height of your tablesaw

TABLE ll auxr-tARY
g/+" melamine-

Miter-gauge slots routedafterassembly

l/q x 3/cx 49t/q" lrim 1/q x3/q x 44" trim



Lengthequals tablesaw height minus17a".




gluing of this nightslanduses L-shapedclampingsquaresto ensure90' angles.Risels hold your assemblyotf the Subassembly workbench,allowingspacetor clamps.

Right-Angle Support
Foryour next glue-up,follow this script for perfectlyaligned, rock-solidassemblies.
hether your next woodworking task is a major production or just a l0-minute skit, every project that gets rave reviews includes successfulglue-ups as part of the script. The clamping squaresshown aboveand detailedin the drawing at right will ensure 90oangles.




Makefrom 3/a" plywood. 1" holefor l . hanging | .... a f t e ru s e , I 45"

r-:a I Tt/r"


z" I


Acclirnation is key to precise glue-ups

yourpartassemblies, firstreadyyourstock.Only Whenyou'regluingand clamping withstraight, alignpartsin a glue-up. by working stablestockcanyou precisely Before cutting and assembly,be sure to properlyacclimateyour stock to the howto proceed. humidity and temperature of yourshop.Here's milling. Aim in yourshopfor 24 hoursbefore Stage 1: Allowroughstockto acclimate Then millpiecesto roughdimensions. for a 6- to 11-percent moisture content. givethe stockanother 24 hoursto acclimate again. milling, Stage 2: Afterthe initial Following this secondrest, inspectyour piecesto see if you'll need to flattenor mark up your stock When satisfied, otherwiseadjustyour stock beforeassembly. to the specification in your plans,set up your tools,and machineyour according workpieces to size.

Planning the production

Preparingto glue up milled stockeliminates unpleasant, last-minutesurprises. Use this scriptto ensuresuccess: Gather the necessaryclamps for the project.(In most edge-to-edge glue-ups, figureabout10"spacing between clamps.) Need more? Borrow or buy clamps as neededto provide full bonding..F


Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers


Portable Finishing Center

Applyfinishes in a dust-freeenclosure that sets up or tears down in just 5 minutes.

eploy this handy tent any time you want to wipe or brush on a finish without having to shut down work in the rest of your shop.The plasticcoveringlets in plenty of light and zips shutovera simpleframe made of polyvinyl-chloride(PVC) pipe and fittings to protectyour projectas the finish dries.Bestof all, you canbuild one in an afternoonwith about$80 worth of materials available from a homecenter.

Cut 34" inside-diameterPVC pipe to the lengthsshownin Drawing 1. Next, dry-assemble the frame using the PVC and fittings as in Drawing 1a. Using a straightedge and utility knife or scissors, cut the one-piece tent top


TOTE THE CENTER WITH EASE Store the center on your lumber rack or stand it in a corner, then carry it to your location.

Best-EverWoodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools,& Shop Organizers 2008

Doorflaps5' x 7'6" 4-milplastic sheeting Clearpackingtape strip goes here

Clearpacking tape strip goes here T o p a n d s i d e s6 ' x 1 9 ' 6 " 4-milplastic sheeting


vtEW E exploDED
,.i*Sr&l}*ir& ,,., Zippers come stitched to a one-piece backer with adhesiveapplied.Just stick the zipper in place, open it, and cut through the backer. and sides to size from a single piece of 1 0 x 2 5 ' 4 - m i l p l a s t i cs h e e t i n g . Drape this piece over the frame, tuck the ends under the stretchers, and temporarily secure it to the fl'arne with masking tape. From a second sheet of 4-mil plastic sheeting,cut the two door flaps to size. Mount a pair of self-adhesive tarp zippers to each door. To do this, lay each door on a flat surface. Peel one side ofthe protective paper off the zipper, as shown in the photo above. Position the zipper so the open end is flush with one end of the door and the zipper aligns with the edge of the door. Rub the backing to ensure that the adhesivemakes full contact with the door. Note that the zippers are shorter than the doors, which leaves a flap about 8" long at the top of each door. Once you have all four zippers adhered to the doors, position them on the PVC frame. Align the lower edge of each door with the lower crossbar and

Tarp zippers

tuck the flap over the upper crossbar. Now adhere eachzipperto the tent sides. Using clearpackingtape,secure the flap at the top of each door to the tent top. Then unzipeachzipperand cut throughthe backerwith a utility knit-e. Remove any tapeyou usedto temporarily hold the tenf assembly to the frame and you'refinished. Note: This finishing center is not designedfor use as a spray booth. Use it only when applying brush-on or wipe-on finishes, and always keepone door open when working inside. Zip the doors shut to keepdust out as thefinish dries.lF


llilrll PVC reducing E adapter F

3/4tt lO 1/ztt -,' i i

Supplies: pipe, %"inside-diameter (10); PVC 10{eet long 3/q'PVC 3/o'to 1/z'PVC (8); side-outlet elbows adapters (8); plastic 10x25'4-mil (1); plastic sheeting 10x12'4-mil (1); (a). (We sheeting tarp zippers found the tarp zippers atThe Home Depot. lf you find don't them locally, contact themanufaclurer at800-531-8573 ortaroline.com.

Putthiscenter to work youneed anywhere to protect a project while thefinishdries.






lil \

.,,a.a r',oi7lr \-,

ERECT THE FRAME IN A FLASH Assemble the frame by sliding the


ROIL OUT THE PLASTIC TENT Lay out the tent and remove the


frame. The corner fittings stay attached to the stretchers.


pipes into the corner assemblies.

Arrange the tent over the frame, and zip down the doors to completethe setup.


for Upgrades Workstation Portable-Glamping

lf you own a Black & DeckerWorkmate, or anotherbrand of portable-clamping workstation,you know how handythey can be. Now, make yours even more useful with these shop-made accessories.
Fixture steps up to lend b hand
Al Finch, a WOODo magazine reader from Baltimore, Maryland, expandedthe workversatilityof his portable-clamping station with a T-shapedfixture to support workpieces.By adjusting the height of the fixture, he can use it to supportlong stock at his tablesaw,radial-arm saw,and router table. To instantly adjust to the proper height for eachtool, Al addedhardboard"steps," where shown above right. Each step sets the correct height for a different tool. Now when Al needsto supporta long or wide workpiece, he simply clamps the fixture between the jaws of the workstation, resting it on the appropriatesteps,and the height is spot-onevery time.

3/qx3x l2" plywood 7a"holes spaced 2" aparl

Extend vour workstalion's reach

Dennis While refinishing an old dresser, Peterson of Lewiston,Idaho,removedthe top to scrape off the paint. The problem he encounteredwas how to hold the top during the scraping process.Clamping it to his workbench meant moving the clampspart way through the job, and his portable-clamping workstation doesn't top. open wide enoughfor the dresser To give the workstation's jaws added capacity,Dennis made a setof four clamp whereshownatright. He made extensions, 128

his own dogsout of hardwoodscrapsand 3/q" dowels, but you could modify the design to use your workstation's own plastic dogs. The extensionsadd 20" of clamping capacityto his workstation.tF
Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2008