A&F Method OfInspection

HOW TO INSPECT BOTTOMS
(A Method of Reviewing Garments)

A&F wants you to be passionate about its product. Each garment should be reviewed
for overall appearance, handfeel, color, shade & wash.

Below is the recommended method of reviewing A&F bottom garments:

1. Scan the front of the garment for overall appearance (for denim products, the legs
should be flipped up at the knee to review back shade & wash against the front
panels. (You should check handfeel, color, and shade, against the wash standard
at this point.)
2. Review interior waistband ticketing, CC & COO labeling and marketing
3. Review front exterior waistband, belt loops, pockets & check interior of pocket
bags (use caution when inserting your hand into a pocket bag- always look first)
4. Check fly & fly opening- test zipper functionality, open the fly and check front
rise
5. Review the interior seat area of the garment: waistband, rises, pocket bags- close
fly after completion
6. Turn garment to the back- review belt loops, waistband, pockets & marketing,
back rise and yoke
7. Fold garment side seam to side seam
8. Beginning on wearers left side- scan from the bottom of the waistband to the
hem, using hands to splay side seam along the length
9. Check for panel to panel shading, quality, construction and mill fabric defects (if
side pockets- check all details)
10. Review sewing of interior of hem (you should display 2-4 of the leg interior,
during your inspection)
11. Flip top leg up and out to review inseam & rises of both legs, use hands to splay
the inside seams of both legs
12. Turn full garment over and review the interior of the other hem
13. Working from the hem to the top of the waistband, use hands to splay side seam
along the length
14. Check for panel to panel shading, quality, construction and mill fabric defects
15. Return garment to front side facing up (in all other fabrics than denim,) flip
bottom half of the leg upwards at the knee to review shade and wash- also review
for any fabric torqueing in the legs as they lay flat.
HOW TO INSPECT TOPS

(A Method of Reviewing Garments)

A&F wants you to be passionate about its product. Each garment should be reviewed
for overall appearance, handfeel, color, shade & wash.

Below is the recommended method of reviewing A&F top garments:

1. Scan the front of the garment for overall appearance, (You should check
handfeel, color, and shade, against the wash standard at this point.)
2. Review inside collar ticketing, CC & COO labeling and marketing
3. Open any placket for the neck (zipper, snaps or buttons) and review interior
neckline area
4. Use hands to splay shoulder seams (wearers left then right), also extend seam
slightly to check shoulder seam extension
5. Fold garment side seam to side seam
6. Beginning with the wearers left side- splay armhole seams and check interior
sleeve hem (if garment is long sleeve- check all arm seams and plackets)
7. Using your hands to splay the side seams from armpit area to hem
8. Check for panel to panel shading, quality, construction and mill fabric defects
9. Review sewing of interior of hem- around back to other side seam
10. Turn full garment over and using your hands to splay the side seams from hem
up to armpit area
11. Splay armhole seams and check interior sleeve hem (if garment is long sleeve-
check all arm seams and plackets)
12. Turn garment to back and review for quality, construction and mill fabric
defects
13. Fold sleeves onto back to check for panel to panel shading
14. Return garment to front for final review of any plaid or stripe matching
specifications (pockets, plackets or mitering)
15. During final front review, insure that the fabric lies flat- no torqueing or
skewing
HOLLISTER Co. ABERCROMBIE & FITCH abercrombie

VI- B FINISHING GUIDE

CONFIDENTIAL PAGE 1 OF 9 NOV-03
A&F QUALITY ASSURANCE MANUAL

General

All garments should be free of defects that affect the appearance and or function of the
garment. This list should be used as a guide when assessing workmanship defects.

ANF does not support the application of zones when assessing the severity of quality defects.
However, this approach is recognized as being necessary when determining the disposition of a
shipment that is affected by certain types of quality defects and the location of these defects within the
garment. A zone diagram follows the finishing guide for reference. Any variations to this guide will be
specified on a seasonal basis. When finalizing quality decisions. The Vendor must first refer to the
tech pack, and second the approved fit comments. The finishing guide should only be used as
a supplement during the inspection process.

Area
Common Workmanship Defects

Armhole
uneven seam allowance

poor shape, inconsistent shape between left and right sides

excessive puckering or pleating

raw edges

weak or exposed seam

Bartacks
missing, wrong placement, not functional

broken inconsistent stitches

WB: bartacks that are not 42 spt. (Unless specified)

Beltloops
missing/extra, poorly sewn onto garment or not balanced.

tails or raw edges appearing from underneath loops. Noticeably shaded belt loops.

wrong belt loop placement.

inconsistent width or length by more than 1/8.

Workmanship defect specific
to a product category:

WB = for Woven Bottoms

KN = for Knit Tops

SW = Sweaters


Area
Body Panels and Parts
sewn together as to cause twisting or distortion by more than 3/8. (Determined laying garment
seam on seam looking at the center of seam.
visibly unfinished edges on outside or inside of garment.
shaded panels, or parts.
poorly designed pattern causing garment inseams, or side seams to shift forward or backward.
Broken yarns in panel, surrounding any pockets or stress points or trim details. (Unless specified
in wash instructions & discussed during wash sign-off)
Hi low / uneven / misaligned
mismatched shapes or garment parts: poorly turned.
substitution or omission of specified parts.
placed in wrong direction.
sewn on panels to cause twisting or distortion.
poor symmetry
Buttons
broken, chipped, discolored, missing where specified, deteriorating finish.
wrong color/ type buttons.
holes or needle chews caused by removal or placement of buttons.
buttons sewn face down.
buttons not sewn threw all eyes or loosely sewn. Metal shanks not secure to body.
substituted or wrong button size or type use without approval.
WB: button placement off by more than 1/8 effecting appearance at the center front.
WB: buttons not shank-wrapped w/ lock stitch. The tech pack will state location of those buttons
that should be wrapped.
Rivets overlapping the waistband seam. Rivets not securely attached to garment.


Area
Button holes
raw edges, uncut tail, reversed, incorrect density, missing gimp.
uncut or partially cut, slanted, too large or too small-making hole non-functional, missing or extra
buttonhole.
wrong placement or buttonhole type.
Darts
severely slanted or curved.
alignment off by more than .
depth not as specified.
uneven length by more than
Hems
uneven, broken stitches or distorted seam.
wide + narrow, poor appearance
unless a frayed hem style, the hem should not have any raw edges at the seam. WB: Abrasion
levels will be determined at wash sign off.
Raw edges on inside hem at the side seam or inseam
KN: Thread breaks when stretched or worn incorrect tension
WB: Holes caused by processing above the hem that are larger than 1/8
Fly
misalignment at center front or left fly causing center front edge to be slanted or curved.
tight zipper set causing distortion of j-stitch or fly.
mis-shaped or wide & narrow j-stitch.
missing tack at bottom of inside fly. Follow tech pack.
Fly facing trimmed off.
Frayed edge caused by processing is acceptable. Vendor must follow approved wash standard



Area
Labels
wrong or missing main, care/content, size or marketing label
inaccurate, abbreviated, misspelled or illegible main, care, content label or marketing.
wrong thread color used to sew label to garment.
labels sewn loosely to garment.
visible needle cuts on label or damaged labels.
labels set on garment, off center , tight tension, or crooked. Poor application.
labels sewn through pocket bags.
Care, content, country of origin that does not comply with standard labeling requirements.
Labels sewn with mono-filament thread
Linings
Sewn with incorrect seam type
Differential shrinkage between shell and lining
Poorly sewn as to cause twisting, distortion of garment
Measurements
All garments must ship within tolerance. Any measurement out of tolerance or beyond the grade is
considered major
Marketing
inaccurate or substitution of marketing without written approval.
wrong placement.
wrong color layout.
incorrect or poor application on garment.
missing hang tags or pocket flashers where specified.



Area
Necks
inconsistent shape, distorted
widths smaller or larger than specified tolerance
excessive puckering, pleating
thread breaks at neck tape when extended
minimum next stretch under tolerance preventing wear
Plackets
shorter or longer than specified tolerance
slanted, distorted, poor alignment
KN: Sewn effecting stripe placement
Pleats
present where none specified on outside of garment.
pleats sewn off pleat notch causing pleats to be unequal distance apart.
Pockets
non-functional pocket(s) opening. Curved, slanted or high/low pockets or welts.
pocket alignment or height off by more than 1/8. Overlapping welts.
pocket bags sewn too high, tight, twisted or caught into waistband. Pocket bags caught in seams
or in stitching.
missing, cut out of tolerance, uneven or unequal distance from the specified placement.
Use of incorrect pocket plate by more than 1/8.
poor flap placement i.e., gaps between back pkt flap & welt opening, or flap crowded into welt
opening.
severe pleating at welt or pocket opening.
missing reinforcements where specified.
raw edges at pocket or showing under flap.
run off stitching or bartacks causing unnecessary wear or holes during wet processing.


Area
Pockets continued
No broken stitches in the panel, at the top of the back pockets. Back pockets must be tested for
strength
Pressing
WB: most if not all A & F bottoms should NOT BE HARD PRESSED. VENDOR SHOULD
FOLLOW THE TECH PACK FOR PRESSING SPECIFICATIONS.
KN: Necks and critical body parts should be lightly steamed to shape and measurement, then
packed as specified.
offensive press or crease marks are not acceptable.
Seams
any open seams, excessive puckering on seams beyond standard.
alignment at rises, inseam or crotch seam off by more than a .
variation in seam allowance by more than 1/8.
Substitution due to incorrect machine type.
Uneven margin by more that 1/8
Foreign object sewn into seams or fabric. I.e., hard objects, needles, trimmings.
Sleeves
Poorly shaped
Wrong sleeve size set on body
Over-stretched sleeve openings
Forearm too wide or narrow
Torque over tolerance
Stripes
KN: stripes that do not miter at a single point and high chest and sleeve
alignment off by more than from top to bottom or side to side of seam



Area
Thread & Stitching
substitution of specified thread color, type or size without written approval.
excessive untrimmed threads on the outside and inside of the garment (3 or more)
Unacceptable range: Outside of garment: > 1/8 @ labels or marketing
> anywhere else on garment.
Inside of garment >1/2 (exception @ labels)
No more than 3 untrimmed threads per garment

foreign material or threads loosely found on garments when unfolded or sewn. Loose threads sewn
into seam that can not be removed unless seam is broken.
bobbin thread that is a different color than the topstitch thread (unless specified)
thread quality that is not compatible with the shell goods.
more than one thread shade/color sewn within a single garment.
-SPI count +/- 2 stitches or inconsistent. SPI must be as specified on the tech pack.
messy, crooked or too wide or narrow topstitching where margins are off by 1/16.
any consecutive skipped, broken or cut stitches.
tight stitches (tight tension) that break under normal stress or causes severe roping (roping =
excessive puckering along seams)
Over dyed merchandise using thread that does not take the dye.
Note: For Lock stitch operations the same size thread should be used for the needle and the bobbin.
For chan stitch operations, it is acceptable to down size thread for the looper by one size only.
Waistband (wb)

high/low waistband and any band ends that when closed properly alignment is off by 1/8 or more.
tightly sewn wb facing or interior wb causing excessive tightness or pleating when worn.
interior wb breakdown or roll more than 1/8. (Only where specified.)
broken stitches inside waistband or severely uneven stitches inside waistband.
poorly turned or mis-shaped waistband ends.
Closure placement causing rolled or gapped zipper when front is held taught at the side seam.
not applied evenly on the body. Or wide and narrow band.


Area
Yokes
Severely slanted curved or bowed.
Tight tension, roping at yoke seam
Distorted, oversized or stretched causing the center back waistband to peak upward by more than
1/8
Yoke seams that are not aligned at center back as specified
Zipper
defective zipper
WB: exposed zipper tape when fly is closed.
unevenly set in zipper so operation of zipper is impaired.
substitution zipper or zipper tape (color, size, type) without approval.

Other
fabric related holes, slubs, broken picks (unless characteristic of the fabric.
stains, soils, cleaning residue, garments should not have any dirt, lint etc.
fabric stitch pattern, nap direction within the garment not cut in the same direction.
no garments should be caught in unrelated operations.
poor noticeable repairs affecting the appearance or function of the garment.
any fabric or trim that does not meet testing requirement established by Abercrombie.
Repairs
Exterior thread must match the wash down appearance of thread after wet processing.
Limit the length of a repair to 1 on the exterior of the garments. Only one repair per garment.
Repairs should not be obvious to the eye.



Area
Wet Processing Standards
Shade Bands
Shipment must be within the established shade band range. Shade bands must be evaluated
using the MACBETH SPECTRA LIGHT II SYSTEM. THE PRIMARY LIGHT SOURCE FOR THE
ASSESSMENT OF SHADE IS CWF COOL WHITE FLORESCENT. THE SECONDARY LIGHT
SOURCE IS INC
A
.

WB: Waistband
Band end Processing abrasion or fraying is acceptable if abrasion does not cause a hole and is
not positioned past the stitching.
At the bottom row of a waistband, repair all skipped/ broken stitches with a lock stitch. Repair
should not be longer than 1.

Hollister Co. Abercrombie & Fitch Trading Co. abercrombie

FINISHING GUIDE FOR DENIM
CONFIDENTIAL A&F QUALITY ASSURANCE MANUAL OCT - 02

THIS GUIDELINE SHOULD BE USED BY QUALITY ASSURANCE AS A REFERENCE WHEN
ASSESSING THE ACCEPTANCE OR REJECTION OF DENIM BOTTOMS.
VENDOR EXPECTATIONS:
ALL GARMENTS SHOULD BE FREE OF DEFECTS THAT AFFECT THE APPEARANCE, FIT
AND OR FUNCTION OF THE GARMENT. MERCHANDISE TESTING SHOULD TAKE PLACE
PRIOR TO PRODUCTION TO INSURE GARMENT COMPONENTS ARE TO STANDARD.
SHRINKAGE: TO INSURE PRODUCT MEETS SPEC AND FIT REQUIREMENTS. SHRINKAGE
SHOULD BE TESTED BY ROLL TO INSURE PRODUCT CONSISTENCY.
VARIATIONS TO THE LISTED STANDARDS WILL BE SPECIFIED ON THE TECH PACK OR
APPROVED STANDARD.
IF THESE EXPECTATIONS CANNOT BE MET, THE VENDOR IS TO REPORT ALL
CONCERNS TO THE A&F MERCHANT WITH A COPY TO THE SOURCING DIRECTOR &
QUALITY ASSURANCE DIRECTOR.
ALL PRODUCTION SHOULD MATCH THE APPROVED PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLE FOR
FIT, WORKMANSHIP, DESIGN DETAIL, AND SEWING QUALITY.
THE AMOUNT OF DAMAGED OR DEFECTIVE GARMENTS OR GARMENTS THAT
REQUIRE MAJOR REPAIRS MUST BE QUANTIFIED AND COMMUNICATED TO THE
MERCHANT, THE DIRECTOR OF SOURCING & QA. AN E-MAIL SHOULD BE SENT WITH A
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PROBLEM INCLUDING REASON AND COURSE OF
ACTION. (Example. 5% of PO 12345 with center front button off center by ).

MEASUREMENTS THAT DO NOT FALL WITH IN THE SPECIFIED TOLERANCE MUST BE
QUANTIFIED AND COMMUNICATED TO THE MERCHANT WITH A CC TO THE DIRECTOR
OF SOURCING AND QA. (Example. found 5% of PO 12345 with inseams +3/8 over tolerance).

AS A MEANS OF COMMUNICATION, THE VENDOR SHOULD ALWAYS KEEP AF
INFORMED OF FALLOUT OVER AND ABOVE THE 5%. IT IS UNDER STOOD THAT 5% IS
NOT FEASIBLE FOR ALL WASHES. THEREFORE THIS TOLERANCE WILL BE ADJUSTED
ACCORDINGLY. THIS GUIDELINE IS SET TO INSURE ALL VENDORS MONITOR THE
PERCENT OF DEFECTS AND COMMUNICATE FINDINGS TO MERCHANDISING.



AQL FINAL AUDIT STANDARD

ALL VENDORS MUST USE AQL 2.5 LEVEL II NORMAL WHEN CONDUCTING FINAL
AUDITS. OR AQL 4.0 LEVEL II TIGHTENED
AQL 2.5 INITIAL SAMPLE DOUBLE SAMPLE
LOT SIZE SAMPLE SIZE ACCEPT REJECT SAMPLE SIZE ACCEPT REJECT
91-150 13 0 2 13 1 2
151-280 20 0 3 20 3 4
281-500 32 1 4 32 4 5
501-1200 50 2 5 50 6 7
1201-3200 80 3 7 80 8 9
3201-10000 125 5 9 125 12 13
10001-35000 200 7 11 200 18 19
35000+ 315 11 16 315 26 27

AQL 4.0
TIGHTENED
INITIAL SAMPLE DOUBLE SAMPLE
LOT SIZE SAMPLE SIZE ACCEPT REJECT SAMPLE SIZE ACCEPT REJECT
91-150 13 0 2 13 1 2
151-280 20 0 3 20 3 4
281-500 32 1 4 32 4 5
501-1200 50 2 5 50 6 7
1201-3200 80 3 7 80 11 12
3201-10000 125 6 10 125 15 16
10001-35000 200 9 14 200 23 24

REQUEST FOR AN EXTENDED TOLERANCE

CHANGES TO MANUFACTURING TOLERANCES ARE THE EXCEPTION. THE VENDOR
MUST RECEIVE WRITTEN APPROVAL FROM AF FOR ANY EXTENSION. EVERY ATTEMPT
SHOULD BE MADE TO MAKE THE REQUEST BEFORE PRODUCTION.
THE VENDOR SHOULD FORWARD SAMPLES TO THE MERCHANT FOR REVIEW.
THE MERCHANT WITH TECH & QA WILL REVIEW & CATEGORIZED THE VENDORS
REQUEST. A SORT CRITERIA WILL BE ESTABLISHED AND RETURNED TO THE VENDOR.
THE VENDOR WILL BE ADVISED HOW TO PROCEED WITH THEIR FINAL INSPECTION.



TOP OF PRODUCTION SAMPLES MANDATORY REQUIREMENTS
ALL VENDORS MUST SUBMIT TOP SAMPLES: TNA APPROXIMATELY: 1 WEEK PRIOR
TO X FTY DATE.
FOR TINTED GARMENTS ONLY: WITH TOPS 1 GARMENT THAT HAS RECEIVED 5
HOME LAUNDERINGS ACCORDING TO THE CARE INSTRUCTION SHOULD BE SENT
WITH THE TOPS. THIS IS A PRE -CAUTION IN ADDITION TO THE TEST RESULTS TO
INSURE TINT RETENTION IS TO STANDARD.
ADDITIONAL TOPS MUST BE SUBMITTED IF A STYLE, FIT, WASH, FABRIC ETC HAS
CHANGED. EACH MERCHANT WILL REQUEST ADDITIONAL TOPS.
TOPS ALONG WITH THE APPROVED SHADE BAND WILL BE USED BY QA TO AUDIT BULK
RECEIPTS.
WET PROCESSING & SHADE BANDS
SHADE BANDS MUST BE SUBMITTED AND APPROVED FOR EACH WASH.
ALL PRODUCTION SHOULD CONSISTENTLY MATCH THE APPROVED WASH STANDARD
AND SHADEBAND. THIS INCLUDES HANDFEEL, ABRASION, COLOR/SHADE/TINT LEVEL,
BLAST, WHISKERS PATTERN ETC.
THE SHADE BAND SHOULD REPRESENT ALL COMPONENTS OF THE WASH I.E. COLOR,
HAND, WHISKERING, TINT, BLAST, ABRASION ETC. THERE SHOULD NOT BE SEPARATE
STANDARD FOR EACH COMPONENT.
WET PROCESSING & SHADE BANDS CONTINUED
BLAST LEVEL, TINT LEVEL, WHISKERING PATTERN, COLOR MUST BE BALANCED FROM
THE LEFT TO RIGHT SIDE OF THE GARMENT. THE VENDORS QA MUST INSURE THE
OVERALL APPEARANCE FALLS WITHIN THE APPROVED SHADE BAND FOR ALL
CATEGORIES
VERBAL OR WRITTEN CORRECT AND PROCEED COMMENTS SHOULD BE FOLLOWED UP
WITH A PHYSICAL STANDARD SHOWING THE CHANGE. THE CORRECT AND PROCEED
STANDARD SHOULD BE SENT TO THE MERCHANT FOR REFERENCE.
MEASUREMENTS
ALL WAISTS & INSEAMS MUST BE MEASURED PRIOR TO SHIPPING.
WAIST & LEG LENGTHS MORE THAN OUT OF TOLERANCE ARE CONSIDERED A MAJOR
DEFECT. FTY MUST NOTIFY THE MERCHANT REGARDING THE AMOUNT OF UNITS OVER
TOLERANCE.
A MINIMUM 6 UNITS PER LOT SIZE MUST BE MEASURED AT RANDOM ON ALL POINTS OF
MEASUREMENTS. DURING WORK IN PROCESS BEFORE WASH, AFTER WASH AND AT FINAL
AUDIT. MEASUREMENTS THAT ARE OUT OF TOLERANCE MUST BE SEPARATED. THE
MERCHANT MUST BE NOTIFIED OF THE % THAT IS OUT OF TOLERANCE.


QUALITY ASSURANCE GUIDELINES
QA should use the following guideline when conducting work in process and final audits

WAISTBAND
REPAIR ALL SKIPPED STITCH/ BROKEN STITCHES AT BOTTOM ROW OF WAISTBAND. 0
TOLERANCE FOR BROKEN STITCHES. *(See comments on wash below)
NO BROKEN STITCHES AT THE TOP OF THE BAND- BROKEN STITCHES MUST BE NEATLY
REPAIRED. IF WAISTBAND CAN NOT BE REPAIRED THEN REJECT.
HIGH OR LOW WAISTBAND AND ANY BAND ENDS THAT WHEN CLOSED PROPERLY IS NOT
ALIGNED IS A DEFECT. FRONT OVER BACK 1/8 TOLERANCE. BACK OVER FRONT 0
TOLERANCE.
POORLY TURNED/FOLDED OR MISS-SHAPED WAISTBAND.
INCONSISTENT MARGINS OR UNEVEN SEAM ALLOWANCE AT WAISTBAND.
BAND END- PROCESSING ABRASION OR FRAYING IS ACCEPTABLE IF ABRASION HOLES DO
NOT EXCEED PAST THE STITCHING.

WAISTBAND CONTINUED.
* HVY STONE, LIGHT, BLASTED, DESTRUCTION WASHES, GARMENT DYE
THE BROKEN STITCH TOLERANCE WILL BE DETERMINED BY THE WASH STANDARD.
TOLERANCE SHOULD BE SET BY STYLE:
GENERAL INSPECTION GUIDELINE:
INTERIOR CHAIN STITCH: TOP ROW OF- TOP STITCH
SHOULD NOT EXCEED 3 SINGLE BROKEN STITCHES AROUND THE WB
OR NEAR BELT LOOP AREA.
SHOULD NOT EXCEED (APPROX. 3 STITCHES) OF MULTIPLE BROKEN
STITCHES IN 2 LOCATIONS AROUND THE WB
REJECT 4 OR MORE MULTIPLE BROKEN STITCHES IN A ROW
EQUALING MORE THAN IN LENGTH =
INTERIOR CHAIN STITCH: BOTTOM ROW- 0 TOLERANCE NO BROKEN STITCH
INTERIOR LOCK STITCH: 0 TOLERANCE: NO BROKEN STITCHES



FLY
NATURAL ABRASION CAUSED BY PROCESSING IS ACCEPTABLE. FOLLOW APPROVED
STANDARDS.
NOTICEABLE REPAIRS OR STOP START STITCHING IS NOT ACCEPTABLE
AT LEFT FLY MISS-ALIGNED FLY CAUSING CF EDGE TO BE SLANTED CURVED OR
EXCESSIVE PUCKERING.
TIGHT ZIPPER SET CAUSING DISTORTION OF J-STITCH OR FLY
MISS-SHAPED OR WIDE & NARROW J-STITCH.
MISSING TACK OR REINFORCEMENT AT BOTTOM OF INSIDE FLY.
ANY HOLE NEAR FLY IS UNACCEPTABLE.
EXPOSED ZIPPER TAPE WHEN FLY IS CLOSED
UNEVENLY SET ZIPPER CAUSING IMPAIRED OPERATION.
ZIPPER OR FLY CONSTRUCTION SUBSTITUTION WITHOUT WRITTEN APPROVAL.
FLY SEAMS OR FACINGS THAT ARE TRIMMED OFF.



FRONT POCKETS
REJECT ANY PKT THAT IS NOT SHAPED AS SPECIFIED.
BROKEN STITCHES: 0 TOLERANCE
REJECT ANY PKT THAT IS OVERLY STRETCHED BY THE OPERATOR CAUSING THE FRONT
POCKET TO ROLL OR FLIP OUTWARD EXPOSING POCKET BAG. SEE PHOTO




BACK POCKET GENERAL
MUST BE SECURE AND MANUALLY TESTED FOR STRENGTH.
MUST MEET SIZE & CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATION AND BE WITH IN TOLERANCE +/- 1/8
NO BROKEN STITCHES ON RE-ENFORCEMENT OR AT THE TOP OF BACK POCKETS.
MENS/BOYS:
NO BROKEN STITCHES AT THE CENTER STITCH OF THE BACK PKT LINING SEE SKETCH
TOLERANCE 1-3 BROKEN STITCHES ON THE LEFT OR RIGHT SIDE OF OUTER STITCH OF
BACK PKT
WOMENS/GIRLS:
NO BROKEN STITCHES ON THE CENTER FISH STITCH OR BACK PKT DETAIL AT THE
BACK PKT.
TOLERANCE 1 BROKEN STITCH ON OUTSIDE STITCH OF THE BACK PKT
BACK PKT MEASUREMENTS MUST
BE WITHIN TOLERANCE +/- 1/8"
3/32"
EDGE
MARGIN
BARTACK
Reject Single or Multiple Broken
stithces at the center of the pkt lining
2" from left to right of center
PKT LINING
Tolerance 2-3 broken stiches to
the left for right side of the pkt
lining
1stitch tolerance for
broken stitches around
back pkt OR.......
2"
2"
NOTE: NO MORE
THAN 3 BROKEN STITCHES
PER POCKET
TOLERANCE
LIGHT, DESTRUCTION
BLASTED GARMENTS
ONLY
ABERCROMBIE & FITCH MEN'S & BOY'S DENIM


POCKETS GENERAL
NON-FUNCTIONAL POCKET(S) OPENING.
WRONG PLACEMENT: TOLERANCE +/- 1/8.
CUT OUT OF TOLERANCE WHERE POCKET SHAPE OR MEASUREMENTS ARE OUT OF
SPECIFIED TOLERANCE. +/- 1/8.
UNEQUAL DISTANCE FROM THE SIDE SEAM OR YOKE SEAM
MISSING REINFORCEMENT STITCHING WHERE SPECIFIED, NOTICEABLE REPAIRS.
ANY HOLE IN POCKET BAG IS UNACCEPTABLE. AVOID USE OF POCKETING THAT DOES
NOT MEET TENSILE TEAR AND SEAM REQUIREMENTS.
ANY POCKET BAG THAT IS NOT CLEAN FINISHED.
Fashion Denim:
POOR FLAP PLACEMENT I.E., GAPS BETWEEN BACK PKT FLAP & WELT OPENING, OR FLAP CROWDED INTO WELT
OPENING, OVERLAPPING WELTS
SEVERE PLEATING AT WELT OPENING OR AT POCKET CORNERS, OVERLAPPING WELTS.
POCKET BAGS SEWN TOO HIGH, TIGHT, TWISTED OR CAUGHT INTO WAISTBAND

CF CLOSURE BUTTONS/NOTIONS
GENERAL:
SUBSTITUTED, MISSING, WRONG COLOR, STYLE OR WRONG SIZE.
CLOSURE THAT IS NOT FUNCTIONAL.
BROKEN CHIPPED OR NEEDLE CHEWS CAUSED BY REMOVAL OR APPLICATION OF
CLOSURE.
DETERIORATION, RUSTING, WASH RESIDUE
CLOSURE PLACEMENT OFF BY MORE THAN 1/8 EFFECTING APPEARANCE ALIGNMENT
OFF CENTER FRONT
METAL SHANK
MUST BE SECURELY APPLIED. BOTTOM TACK SHOULD NOT BE LOOSE: (Should not be able to
place fingernail behind the tack. Tack must be securely applied tightly against the fabric)
SHARP EDGES OR POINTS
RIVETS/BURRS
RIVITS PLACED MORE THAN 1/16 ON BAND OR NOT EQUAL PLACEMENT LEFT TO RIGHT
SIDE.
RIVITS THAT ARE NOT SECURELY/TIGHTLY APPLIED ON THE GARMENT AND HAVE A
HANGING EDGE.
BUTTONS:
BUTTONS NOT SEWN THREW ALL EYES OR LOOSELY SEWN OR BUTTONS SEWN FACE
DOWN.
BUTTONS NOT WRAPPED/SHANKED STITCHED WHERE SPECIFIED.
BUTTON NOT ALIGNED W/ BUTTONHOLE.
HARDWARE:
MUST BE APPLIED BEFORE WASH OR AS SPECIFIED.



BUTTON HOLES
UNCUT OR PARTIALLY CUT WITH RAW EDGES, UNCUT TAIL, TOO LARGE OR TOO SMALL.
*A&F PREFERS THE CUT BEFORE BUTTONHOLE MACHINE
WRONG PLACEMENT. BUTTON HOLES OFF CENTER BY MORE THAN 1/8.
MUST HAVE GIMP CORD OR 2 CONES OF THREAD FOR LOOPER.
MISSING OR EXTRA BUTTON HOLE.

BODY PANELS/PARTS
TORQUE 3% TOLERANCE
PARTS SEWN ON GARMENT CAUSING TWISTING OR DISTORTION BY MORE THAN .
VISIBLY UNFINISHED EDGES ON OUTSIDE OR INSIDE OF GARMENT THERE SHOULD BE NO
RAW EDGES ON INSIDE OR OUTSIDE OF GARMENT.
SHADED PANELS.
OVER OR UNDER CUT EFFECTING THE FIT AND FINISHED MEASUREMENTS.
INSEAMS, OR SIDE SEAMS THAT SHIFT FORWARD OR BACKWARD
MISMATCHED SHAPES OR GARMENT PARTS POORLY, TURNED.
SUBSTITUTION OR OMISSION OF SPECIFIED PARTS
PLACED IN WRONG DIRECTION.
TWISTED LEGS MORE THAN 3/8. DETERMINED BY CENTER FOLDING & LYING SEAM ON
SEAM- THEY MUST TOUCH.
BROKEN YARNS IN THE PANEL, SURROUNDING ANY POCKET OR DESIGN DETAIL. UNLESS
SPECIFIED IN WASH INSTRUCTIONS & DISCUSSED DURING WASH SIGN OFF.
THERE SHOULD BE NO OPEN SEAMS ON THE GARMENT.
MIS-ALIGNED RISE, INSEAM OR CROTCH SEAM BY MORE THAN A .
VARIATION IN SEAM ALLOWANCE BY MORE THAN 1/8.

BARTACK
MISSING, WRONG PLACEMENT, NOT SECURE
BROKEN OR INCONSISTENT STITCHES,
SPT NOT TO SPEC
BELTLOOPS
MISSING/EXTRA, POORLY SEWN ONTO GARMENT OR NOT BALANCED.
TAILS OR RAW EDGES APPEARING FROM UNDERNEATH LOOPS.
NOTICEABLY SHADED
WRONG PLACEMENT. ALIGNMENT OVER 1/8.

YOKES
SEVERELY SLANTED OR CURVED/BOWED.
YOKES SEAMS FOR WOMENS & GIRLS SHOULD BE OFF SET AS SPECIFIED BY TECH
DESIGN.
YOKE SEAMS FOR MENS & BOYS SHOULD LINE UP AT THE CENTER BACK. ALL
STITCHES MUST MATCH ON THE YOKE SEAMS AFTER SEATSEAM OPERATION. NO
TOLERANCE. ( UNLESS SPECIFIED BY TECH PACK)
TIGHT TENSION, ROPING AT YOKE.
DISTORTED, OVERSIZED OR STRETCHED CAUSING THE CB WB TO PEAK UPWARD BY
MORE THAN 1/8



HEM:

REPAIR ALL SEWING DEFECTS & HOLES CAUSED BY PROCESSING ABOVE THE HEM THAT
IS LARGER THAN 1/8.
REJECT ANY GARMENT WITH MORE THAN 3 BROKEN STITCHES AT THE HEM.***
UNEVEN STITCH LINE
NO RAW EDGES ON INSIDE HEM AREA***
START THE HEM @ OFF INSEAM AND SHOULD TIE BY BUT NEVER MORE THAN 1.
HEM HEIGHT THAT IS + 1/8.
***UNLESS APPROVED WASH STANDARD.
LABELS
ALL LABELS MUST HAVE A WASHED DOWN APPEARANCE. LABEL QUALITY MUST BE ABLE
TO WITHSTAND SPECIFIED PROCESSING. INFORMATION SHOULD BE LEGIBLE OR TO
SPECIFIED STANDARD.
WRONG OR MISSING MAIN, CARE/CONTENT COUNTRY OF ORIGIN, SIZE OR SPECIFIED
EXTERIOR LABEL OR ID LABEL.
INACCURATE, ABBREVIATED, OR ILLEGIBLE MAIN, CARE CONTENT LABEL.
LABELS SEWN LOOSELY TO GARMENT.
VISIBLE NEEDLE CUTS ON LABEL.
POOR QUALITY, DAMAGED, MIS-SPELLED INFORMATION
MARKETING LABELS SEWN THROUGH POCKET BAGS MAKING BAG NON FUNCTIONAL.
ANY ID LABEL THAT IS NOT PLACED DIRECTLY BEHIND THE CARE LABEL.
WRONG THREAD COLOR USED TO SEW LABEL TO GARMENT. THREAD USED TO SEW THE
LABEL SHOULD MATCH COLOR OF LABEL UNLESS SPECIFIED.
REPLACING DAMAGED LABELS WITH UNWASHED LABELS.

MARKETING
PAPER JACRON PATCHES: REJECT PATCHES AFTER WASH IF MORE THAN 5 CONSECUTIVE
BROKEN STITCHES. (THIS APPLIES TO BLASTED, DESTRUCTION, LIGHT WASH ONLY.
DO NOT APPLY NEW NON-WASHED JACRONS TO WASHED GARMENT.
INACCURATE OR SUBSTITUTION OF MARKETING WITHOUT WRITTEN APPROVAL..
WRONG PLACEMENT, WRONG COLOR LAYOUT.
INCORRECT OR POOR APPLICATION ON GARMENT.
MISSING HANGTAGS OR PKT FLASHERS WHERE SPECIFIED



PRESSING
MOST IF NOT ALL A & F BOTTOMS ARE NOT PRESSED. FACTORY IS TO FOLLOW THE
APPROVED STANDARD & SPECIFICATIONS.
OFFENSIVE PRESS OR CREASE MARKS SHOULD NEVER APPEAR ON THE GARMENT
THREAD
MUST USE A&F APPROVED THREAD SUPPLIERS. SEE AF THREAD POLICY.
SUBSTITUTION OF SPECIFIED THREAD COLOR, TYPE OR SIZE WITH OUT WRITTEN
APPROVAL.
EXCESSIVE UNTRIMMED THREADS ON THE OUTSIDE OR INSIDE OF THE GARMENT. MORE
THAN 3 UNTRIMMED THREADS PER GARMENT
more than 1/8 long on label, more than long on inside out side of garment, more that on inside
seams
MORE THAN ONE THREAD SHADE SEWN WITHIN A SINGLE GARMENT.
LOOSE THREADS SEWN INTO SEAM THAT CAN NOT BE REMOVED UNLESS SEAM IS
BROKEN.
MESSY, CROOKED OR TOO WIDE OR NARROW TOPSTITCHING WHERE MARGINS ARE OFF
BY 1/16.
TIGHT STITCHES (TIGHT TENSION) THAT BREAK UNDER NORMAL STRESS OR CAUSES
SEVERE ROPING (ROPING = EXCESSIVE PUCKERING ALONG SEAMS)
FOR HEAVY WASHES USE: COTTON WRAP POLY CORE THREAD. FOR ENZYME WASHES
POLY WRAP/ POLY CORE THREADS SHOULD BE USED. THREAD WILL BE SPECIFIED ON
THE TECH PACK.
OVER DYE PRODUCTS SHOULD USE COTTON THREADS.
FOR LOCKSTITCH OPERATIONS- THE SAME SIZE THREAD MUST BE USED ON NEEDLE &
BOBBIN. FOR CHAINSTITCH, IT IS ACCEPTABLE TO DOWNSIZE THREAD FOR LOOPER BY
ONE SIZE ONLY.

SPI
VENDOR MUST FOLLOW THE TECH PACK SPECIFICATION.
INCONSISTENT SPI PER OPERATION.

GENERAL

FABRIC RELATED MILL FLAWS HOLES, SLUBS, BROKEN PICKS (UNLESS CHARACTERISTIC
OF THE FABRIC.
DO NOT COLOR IN MILL FLAWS WITH INK PEN OR MARKER.
STAINS. SOILS, CLEANING RESIDUE, GARMENTS SHOULD NOT HAVE ANY DIRT, LINT ETC.
FABRIC NOT CUT IN THE SAME DIRECTION.
NO GARMENTS SHOULD BE CAUGHT IN UNRELATED OPERATIONS.
ANY FABRIC OR TRIM THAT DOES NOT MEET TESTING REQUIREMENTS ESTABLISHED BY
A&F.
VENDOR MUST FOLLOW THE REQUIRED PATTERN YIELD.


REPAIRS
AFTER WASH REPAIR CRITERIA:
POOR NOTICEABLE REPAIRS AFFECTING THE APPEARANCE OR FUNCTION OF THE
GARMENT
EXTERIOR THREAD MUST MATCH THE WASH DOWN LOOK OF THE ORIGINAL THREAD.
(WASH SOME THREAD ENCLOSED WITH POCKETING TO MATCH)
LIMIT THE LENGTH OF A REPAIR TO 1 ON THE EXTERIOR OF THE GARMENTS. ONLY ONE
PER GARMENT. BROKEN STITCH TOLERANCE: (1) ON OUTSEAM OR INSEAM.
ZONE 1
ABOVE THE CROTCH
NS DE & OUTS DE
ZONE 2
CROTCH TO KNEE
ZONE 3
KNEE TO HEM
DEFECT ZONES: BOTTOMS
ONLY ONE DEFECT PER GARMENT
DEFECT ZONES: KNIT TOPS
ZONE 1
ZONE 3
1 " FROM
S DESEAM
& UNDERARM
SEAM
ZONE 4
5" ABOVE
BTM EDGE
ZONE 2
CENTER
ZONE 5
5" ABOVE
BTM EDGE
OF SLV
OPEN NG
ZONE 1
ZONE 1
ZONE 1 : FRONT & BACK & SLEEVE TOP. . . . . . . . . . 0 DEFECTS 0 DEFECTS
ZONE 2: CENTER. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 DEFECTS 0 DEFECTS
ZONE 3: S DE/UNDERARM. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0"-1 /8" 0"-1 /8"
ZONE 4: BOTTOM OF GARMENT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 DEFECTS 0"-1 /4"
ZONE 5 BOTTOM OF SLEEVE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 DEFECTS 0"-1 /4"
FRONT BACK FRONT BACK
0 DEFECTS 0 DEFECTS
0"-1 /8" 0"-1 /8"
0"-1 /4" 0"-1 /4"
0 DEFECTS 0"-1 /2"
0 DEFECTS 0"-1 /2"
HOLES ARE NOT ACCEPTABLE I N ANY SHAPE OR SIZE
EXCEPTI ONS MUST BE APPROVED I N WRI TI NG PRI OR TO PRODUCTI ON
CONTRAST FLYERS SAME COLOR SLUBS

A&F Method OfInspection

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HOW TO INSPECT BOTTOMS

(A Method of Reviewing Garments)

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A&F Method OfInspection

A&F Method OfInspection