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ENRICHING A SAUCE WITH WINE
By MARK BITTMAN
Wine is a common ingredient in finishing sauces, but it is not often
used as a base. It lacks the body and texture of homemade stock, but
nevertheless has attributes that stock lacks, like acidity and
fruitiness, and when reduced it develops complexity. Wine's thinness
is easily countered by the addition of judicious amounts of butter
and, even better, a bit of cream. In fact, a wine reduction with
cream added is the modern equivalent of a cream sauce with wine
added: lighter, brighter-tasting and far lower in fat.
Making one is simple: the most time-consuming part of the recipe peeling the shrimp - can be avoided by using sea scallops instead.
Boil a couple of cups of wine with shallots and butter as quickly as
your stove will allow. A broad pan with sloping sides is best for
this because it allows the wine to evaporate at about the right pace;
too wide a pan may allow scorching, too narrow will increase the
cooking time unnecessarily.
When the wine is almost completely gone, cook the shrimp in this
sauce; they will release a good deal of their own liquid, so don't
stop reducing the wine too soon.
The keys to finishing the dish are seasoning and body: it will take
plenty of salt and a fair pinch of cayenne (or tarragon or chervil).
Another pat of butter is needed both to temper the acidity and to
enhance the structure of the sauce, and though it is hardly
necessary, a splash of heavy cream takes this process a bit further.
Garnishing with a fresh herb is the perfect touch: chervil is ideal
here, but you're more likely to find parsley.
The only problem with this dish is that, wine and shrimp prices
being what they are, it can be expensive. The chardonnay need not be
heavily oaked, but it should have good fruit and be something you are
willing to drink. I tried this dish with riesling, pinot blanc and
sauvignon blanc and found the results less satisfying than when made
with even cheap chardonnay.
Shrimp in Chardonnay Sauce
==========================
2 cups chardonnay or other full-bodied white wine
2 shallots, minced
3 tablespoons butter
Salt to taste
1/4 teaspoon cayenne, or to taste
1 1/2 to 2 pounds shrimp (deveined if you like)
1/2 cup heavy cream, optional
Chopped parsley or chervil for garnish, optional
1. In a 10-inch skillet with sloping sides, or a wok or saucepan,
combine wine, shallots, 2 tablespoons butter, a large pinch of
salt and cayenne. Bring to a boil over high heat and reduce,
- 12 to 13 pound goose
orange, quartered
tablespoon salt
tablespoon ground pepper
large onion, cut into 8 pieces
bay leaves
or until crackers are deeply golden brown all over. Let cool on a
wire rack. Yield: 40 crackers.
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Eggnog Bread
============
2 eggs
1 cup sugar
1 cup dairy eggnog
1/2 cup butter, melted
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
2 teaspoons rum extract
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 1/4 cup flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
Preheat oven to 350F. Grease bottom of bread pan. Beat eggs, add
sugar, eggnog, butter, rum and vanilla. Blend well, add flour,
baking powder and nutmeg. Stir until just moistened. Pour into
greased pan.
Bake at 350F for 45-50 minutes or until toothpick comes out clean.
Cool 10 minutes. Remove from pan. Allow bread to cool completely
before slicing.
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Holiday Fruit Cake
==================
1 cup butter
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
1/2 cup milk
1 3/4 cups currants
1 1/4 cups mixed candied citrus peel
1/2 grated nutmeg pod
1 cup slivered almonds
1 lemon, zest and juice
1 1/4 cups flour
dry sherry for sprinkling
Generously grease and line with parchment paper an 8-inch round pan,
or grease and flour a 5-cup ring mold; set aside. Cream the butter
and gradually add the sugar, beating until the mixture is light and
fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition.
Add the milk. In a separate bowl, combine the currants, candied peel,
nutmeg, almonds, and lemon zest with 3/4 cup of flour. Add the
remaining cup of flour and lemon juice to the egg batter; mix well.
Fold in the fruit and nut mixture. Pour into a prepared pan and bake
in a 300F oven for 2 hours or until a fine skewer inserted into the
cake comes out clean.
Loosen the edges of the cake from the pan or mold with a knife and
allow to cool on a wire rack before unmolding. Sprinkle the cake with
a little sherry, allow to cool completely. Wrap well and refrigerate.
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This Week's Culinary Quiz Answer: Garam Masala
The term "garam masala" is from Urdu and means "hot spice". There
are many forms of this spice blend, containing varying amounts of
the spices mentioned in the question along with cloves, peppercorns,
cinnamon, mace, fennel seeds, etc.
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Until Next Week,
John Havel, Editor
http://www.e-cookbooks.net
"The Food and Cooking Network"
VJJE Publishing Co.
9121 Riverside Road
Clay, NY
13041
1-877-210-9600
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