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Designed by Joy Ommer Manuela Nagl Sophia Neuhoff Edited by Christian Hamann Amelia Shephard Jo Wolf Written by Ann-Christin Schneider Janina Reiter Laura Sedlmaier Joy Ommer Manuela Nagl Sophia Neuhoff Amelia Shephard Jo Wolf Christian Hamann Thanks to Paul for the great layout support, Anne for inspiring feedback sessions, Janis for all the interesting cultural trips, Sally, Lutz and Mary.

Edinburgh is an experience. A City of enormous gifts, whose streets sing of history, whose cobbles tell tales.
Alan Bold
Splendidly expressed Alan! This guy knew how to appreciate Scotlands capital. And so will you with your Edinbro. This little know-it-all finds something that suits everybodys interests. He has looked out for places worth seeing and guides you through the streets. He knows the best pubs and restaurants, sights and shopping opportunities and a lot about the citys history as well. Put simply, you are better off with him. Your Edinbro guides you to the most amazing places in this romantic town. Laura Sedlmaier & Christian Hamann

Edinburghs History Survival Guide Scottish Lifestyle Whisky Haggis Kilt Ceilidh Fried Mars Bar Unicorn Golf Irn Bru Bagpipe This is Edinburgh! The Royal Mile The Closes Edinburgh Castle Camera Obscura St Giles Cathedral The Wirters Museum The Peoples Story Scottish Parliament Palace of Holyroodhouse Greyfriars Bobby

8 12 16 17 18 20 22 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

41 Grassmarket 42 The Surgeons Hall 43 National Museum 44 New Town 45 Scotts Monument 46 Georgian House 47 Royal Yacht Britanna 48 Warriston Cemetry 49 Old Calton Buriel Ground 50 Harry Pottersburgh 52 Off the beaten track! 53 Portobello 54 Arthurs Seat 55 Calton Hill 56 Stockbridge 58 Leith 59 Rosslyn Chapel 60 Cramond Island 62 Edinburgh Zoo 63 Royal Botanic Garden 64 Forth Railway Bridge 65 Hawes Inn 66 Auld Reekie Tour

Suit up! Princes Street Victoria Street St Stephans Street Dovecot Studeos Tartan Weaving Mill Art, aRt and more arT Scottish National Portrait Gallery Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art Stills The Red Door Gallery The Fruitmarket Gallery Summerhall The Scotman Steps Scottish National Gallery Queens Gallery The Edinburgh Liturary Pub Tour Bon Apptit! Lovecrumbs Marys Milk Bar Farmers Market

68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 86 87 88 89

90 Backed Potato Shop 91 LAlba DOro Fish & Chips 92 The Standing Order 93 Made in Italy 94 The Scotch Whisky Experience 96 Whats up for tonight? 97 Finnigans Wake 98 Sandy Bells 99 Jazz Bar 100 Oz Bar 101 Smallest pub of Scotland 102 Cabaret Voltaire 103 Brass Monkey 104 Sneaky Petes 105 Stand Comedy Club 106 Cameo 107 Filmhouse 108 Alternative Edinburgh 109 Forest Caf 110 Couch Surfing 112 Hostel Jobbing 113 Mosque Kitchen 114 Top Local Tips! 116 Contributions

EDINBURGHS HISTORY
...and stories beyond the cobblestones
The Beginnings The origins of the Scottish capital are still largely in the dark. It is estimated that todays volcanic Castle Rock was a natural defence establishment and thus the reason for a first settlement of the Picts. Over the next 600 years, the Picts fought against the English to secure the fortress. King Edwin destroyed the small settlement and built a fort, which he called Edwinesburh. Until 1018, the Scots used this fort as the most southern outpost. However, this could not prevent the British clans plundering the city seven times. Town of the Kings In the 11th Century, the markets at the foot of the fortress began to appear and the actual growth of Edinburgh began. David I founded the Augustinian Abbey of Holyrood in 1124 on the Castle Rock. The Edinburgh Castle and the Abbey guaranteed security and prosperity which meant that a small, famous stretch of road the Royal Mile, could develop. Rising of a Capitol However, it soon came to military conflicts in the region: Edinburgh in the 13th and 14th Centuries was besieged, attacked and partially destroyed several times. In 1313, Robert the Bruce fought back and conquered. In the middle of the 15th Century, the city began to gradually recover from these setbacks and gained more and more importance. It was the safest royal seat of the Scottish country. Under the reign of Stuart King James II, Edinburgh became the Scottish capital after Perth. In 1450, Edinburgh was secured and built the first city wall: It included the Old Town and the area around the Grassmarket. With the rising population, the living space was always scarce so that they were forced to build houses with up to 15 floors. In social harmony, nobles, artisans and merchants, rich and poor lived together in such structures, which they called closes. Reformation and Religion Wars In the 16th Century, Edinburgh was plagued again: Henry VIII of England wanted the marriage between his son and Mary Stuart, Queen of Scots. This failed, because Mary was sent to France. During the exile of the Scottish Queen, there was further political and religious unrest in the country: Edinburgh was hit by the turmoil of the Reformation. The Scots sympathized with the ideas of the Reformation, but John Knox, the great reformer was able to enforce it in 1560. The Scotfrom Edinburgh to London. Soon after, Scotland and England came to religious disagreements, which triggered a civil war. But in 1707, it came to the union of Scotland with England to become the Kingdom of Great Britain the Act of Union. Edinburgh lost from then on, rapidly decreasing in importance and prestige compared to London. Scottish Enlightenment tish Parliament established a Presbyterian Church, independent of the Church of Rome, which rejected the authority of the Pope. The year 1603 brought a drastic change for Edinburgh with it: King James VI of Scotland succeeded the English throne as James I of England, and moved his court In the 18th Century, science and art in the city saw a new flowering: Philosophers, poets and painters came to the city and the Scottish doctors achieved worldwide fame through their research and inventions. Furthermore, the city flourished as a literary metropolis. Edinburgh was the workplace of Adam Smith,

Maggie Dickson In 1784, Maggie Dickson was publicly executed on the Grassmarket. Her body was put in a wooden cart and carried to a graveyard. But while on this journey, knocking noises coming out of the cart so that it was opened again and to everyones surprise a living Maggie lay inside. Maggie had served her sentence, and so the lawyers of Edinburgh decided that she couldnt be convicted of the same crime twice. 40 years later, Half-hanged Maggie died as a happy woman with a husband and children. After this happened, the law was changed to say that a person had not served his sentence until the day he died. David Hume, Robert Ferguson and the three lawyers Scott, Boswell and Stevenson, who have been remembered in history by their literature. Thats why Edinburgh was distinguished as the first UNESCO City of Literature in 2004. Edinburgh was also the home of the prominent painter Henry Raeburn. The population grew further, as did the Scottish national consciousness: The Scottish Enlightenment philosophers distanced themselves

more and more from England. But in contrast, the Edinburgh society renounced the Scottish dialect and preferred the nobler Kings dialect. At the same time the Edinburgh City Council made the decision to build a new neighbourhood at the foot of the Castle Rock because the houses in the Old Town collapsed. They drained the NorLoch and under the supervision of the famous architect James Craig, the New Town of Edinburgh was built. Many of the most important architects of the time designed the new Georgian district. Business was still undertaken in the Old Town w h i l e the New T o w n was initially reserved as a purely residential area

for the wealthy. Only the poor and underprivileged lived in the Old Town, up to the 19th Century. The conditions there were anything but humane. The Second Rising of the Capitol After the Second World War, Edinburgh slowly but surely gained importance and the cultural life of the city rose to new heights. In 1974, The University of Edinburgh won medicine, electronics and artificial electronics prestige for teaching and research institutions of international standing. In the 60s and

70s, development plans were instigated which led to a misguided demolition of several parts of Edinburgh. As a result, a c o n s e r va tion movement was formed and in 1995 Edinburghs Old Town and New Town became a UNESCO World HeriBurke & Hare

tage Site. In 1997, the second referendum on the question of the establishment of a Scottish Parliament was ultimately successful: In 1999, the Scottish Parliament met for the first time back in Edinburgh. Today, the city presents itself to visitors with a strong new awareness of its importance.
Ann-Christin Schneider

The medical upturn in the 19th Century was only possible because of the rising numbers of autopsies. Therefore, human corpses were needed and doctors and professors turned a blind eye to where their sources came from. In 1827/28, William Burke and William Hare, a pair of criminals, decided to fill the need not by grave robbery. Instead, they murdered up to 15 people in total and sold the bodies to Dr Robert Knox, the most renowned medical lecturer of Edinburghs university. But they overdid their bloody game and were caught. The public demanded their hanging but the police had little evidence of murder. Hare struck a deal with the police and implicated his companion. Burke was hanged while Hare was transported to Australia.

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Survival Guide
Essential Information Size of Scotland: 30,414 square miles (78,772km) Population of Scotland: 5.3 mil lion (8.3 per cent of the UKs population) Population of Edinburgh: 482,000 Official religion: Christianity Country and area dialing code: +44 131 Currency: Pound sterling (GBP) Time zone: Greenwich Mean Time (UTC0) Emergency numbers: ambulance & fire emergencies 999, police 101 Information Centre: 3 Princes Street, Edinburgh EH2 2QP Arrival and getting around Useful website: www.edinburgh. Edinburgh Airport is an internagov.uk tional airport, located 8 miles (13km) from the city centre. As an alternative option, you can arrive Welcome to Edinburgh! in Glasgow and take a bus or train to Edinburgh (approx one hour). Scotlands charming capital has The Airlink bus connects the centre a lot of history, natural beauty with the airport and leaves every 15 and adventure to offer. The city minutes during the day (single tickwhich is easily accessible on foot et: 3.50). Additionally, there are is comprised of different parts, regular buses and the tram will be each with their own character. running in the near future. The Royal Mile (p.30) is considTourists travelling by train will arered the heart of Edinburgh. The rive into Waverley Station in the city centre can be divided into the centre or at Haymarket Station. Old and the New Town. The MeScotRail connects the cities Edindieval Old Town is dominated by burgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen, Perth the Castle Hill and known for its closes; tiny, crooked streets that detract to from the Royal Mile to the north and south. The Georgian New Town was planned by the architect James Craig. Originally, it consisted of three parallel streets (Princes Street, George Street and Queen Street) and was later expanded to the north. To get around the city, you can choose between various guided tours or discover Edinburgh on your own. Free walking tours are available in different languages. (Check www.newedinburghtours. com for further information). as well as the Highlands. The main bus station is situated at St Andrews Square. The Scottish CityLink connects all major Scottish cities and there are also MegaBus links with other UK cities. You can reach Edinburgh by car from Glasgow, Stirling and Perth via the highways M8, M9 and M90. Parking is expensive in the city centre and parking spots are hard to find. Weather The high season in Scotland is between April and September, especially during school holidays in July and August. In this time, the temperature is between 10C and 20C in the daytime. From October to March, it gets colder with temperatures between 6C and 12C. Be careful: It can get really windy! Can a gie ye a haund? It is best to know that there are three official languages in Scotland - English, Scots and Scottish Gaelic. It might be difficult for some people to understand, so here are a few Gaelic words to get you started:
aye yill dram howf weet the thrapple fou as a puggie fitba hottle bahookie nae bother pissn doon dreich wee loch kirk bogle grue gowf yes beer / ale glass of whisky pub have a drink very drunk football hotel backside no problem heavy rain miserable,grey small lake church ghost sheer horror golf

Sweet Dreams If you are still looking for accommodation, these websites may provide useful information. Or maybe you want to have a look at our ways of alternative travelling in Edinburgh (see p.). www.hostel-scotland.co.uk www.visitscotland.com

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Scottish people are known for their friendliness, yet also for their passion about their traditions and heritage. So here are some things you absolutely should or shouldnt do:

Top Tips

Did you know...?

Scotland... ...has the unicorn as the national animal (p.25). ...has the thistle as the national flower. ...has about the same land area as the Czech Republic, the United Arab Emirates or Panama. ...drives on the left side of the road. The telephone, television and penicillin are famous Scottish inventions. ...has the highest population of redheads in the world (13 per cent of the population). ...is considered the homeland of golf (p.26). Edinburgh... ...is the Scottish capital, but only the second largest city after Glasgow. ...was built on seven hills, like Rome (see Arthurs Seat, p.54 & Calton Hill, p.55). ... has a population of 450,000 but during the month of August figures double because of the Edinburgh Festival. ...its nickname Auld Reekie (Old Smoky) marks an era

DO Ride the airlink (depending on the driver you might feel like Harry Potter on the knightbus). Drink cider and ale, they are very popular in Scotland. Try haggis; its tastier than you might expect. Get lost in the city; Edinburgh has so many hidden places. Write whisky without an e; whiskey is the Irish word and Scottish whisky is much better. Save your coins for the buses; they dont have change. Climb Arthurs Seat; you will feel like the king of the world if you make it. Buy something tartan, because it looks really good on everyone. Walk around; Edinburgh is a walking city. Listen to Ae Fond Kiss from Eddie Reader; it is an old poem of Robert Burns. Always bring an umbrella.

DONT Call a Scotsman English, you can get into big trouble. Talk about politics in a pub. Let the weather stop you, life goes on even if its raining. Wear light clothing, weather in Scotland is very changeable. Be a skinflint, the people who are acting on the street are doing this for living. Step on the brass plate on parking place 23 behind St Giles Cathedral, it is the grave of John Knox. Stub your cigarette on the pavement, there is a penalty if caught. Drink on the streets, this is not permitted and will have consequences if caught.

when the citys buildings burnt a lot of wood and coal for heat, so chimneys would emit columns of smoke into the air. The Old and New Towns of the city have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The rock on which Edinburgh Castle (p.32) is built is the plug of an extinct volcano. Due to glacial erosion it formed a crag and tail formation: The Castle Rock and the Royal Mile. The Royal Mile got its name because it is about a mile long street with two royal buildings at each end: Edinburgh Castle and Holyroodhouse Palace. ...is said to be one of the most haunted places in Europe. ...was designated the worlds first UNESCO City of Literature in 2004 (p.84). Joanne K. Rowling wrote her first novel of the Harry Potter series at the Elephant House Caf on George IV Bridge (p.50). ...hosts the biggest New Year street party in the world, known as Edinburghs Hogmanay. Over 100,000 people enjoy wonderful music in Princes Street Gardens and at midnight, dazzling fireworks display on all seven hills surrounding the city.
Sophia Neuhoff & Laura Sedlmaier

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Water of life
Aqua vitae, Uisge Beathy or in English simply called Whisky. The difference between the Scottish national liquor and the Irish version is that the Irish write it with an e: Whiskey. Once upon a time the whisky distilling has been a hobby of the farmers in the highlands. The first recorded distilling of Scotland is listed in the 15th century. Almost a hundred years later whisky was banned from the public and only noble people had access to the national drink. At the end of the 18th century b a n kruptcy and oversea smuggling became a massive problem. Around that time soldiers tended to drink more whisky as it is was healthy with the result that it got prohibited. Today we count 108 whisky distilleries in Scotland. The taste varies from each part. While in Islay the whisky is more smoky, the Speyside one tends to be

Whisky

Tasting Crash Course -colour: dark-> old -teardrops at the glass: many + run quickly = young -smell: add a splash of water to the Whisky -How does it feel? silky? syrupy? tingly on tongue? the tasting takes place on the palate
more fruity. A whisky has to be older than three years otherwise you cant drink it. Those are less expensive, but the more it is aged the more expensive it will be. 70% of the price is tax. If you do like it: you can enjoy it in a traditional whisky shop, a pub like Sandy Bells (p.98) or the Silver Tour of the Scotch Whisky Experience (p.94) offers you a widespread assortment. Joy Ommer

Scottish Life

style

t the Scottish lifewhen you think abou nd mi ur yo to s me co isky, golf, kilts What into your head, or wh ing pp po s ipe gp ba e rtant aspects style? Ar e are a few very impo es Th ! ht rig is at Th the interand haggis? more to offer. Discover s ha d lan ot Sc t bu , t some of Scottish life a Scotsman has to ge y wh , rn ico un e th t a fried esting story abou much alcohol or what o to th wi ing en ev h, so you can act IRN BRU after an rn to dance at the ceilid lea d an t ou Go is. r ba important things Mars Weve found the most d. lan ot Sc m fro e ar style. like you discovering Scottish life en wh try d an ow kn Laura Sedlmaier you have to

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The hunt of the Grand Fluffy Balls

It is not just the Loch Ness Monster which gives Scotland its reputation as the country of myths and legends. Also the national dish haggis inspires the Scots imagination. Dark mysteries entwine around the traditional recipe and strange stories are told about it. Haggis is a savoury pudding containing sheeps innards Who is it? its heart, liver, kidneys and It lives in the Highlands, lungs minced a beast of the species with onion, Grand Fluffy Balls. The oatmeal and strange creature with suet mixed with fluffy fur and a shorter spices. Before right leg than left. It is grimacing, it is damned to always walk not as bad as it around the mountains sounds. Haggis in the same direction is considered to peaceful, shy and very be the national hard to spot. This mamdish of Scotland mal is the Haggis. as a result of Robert Burns poem Address to a Haggis of 1787.

Haggis

This description is not immediately appealing so that they are now serving a vegetarian Haggis as well. A good place to try is No.1 at High Street on the Royal Mile. The restaurant with its rough stone walls, golden chandeliers and comfortable leather couches with chilled music in the air, offers traditional and vegetarian Haggis as a starter for a reasonable price (4.95).

the white cream vegetarian version sauce on the vege- consists of a special tarian haggis, there mixture of beans, is no other signifi- lentils and spices cant difference be- so that its texture tween the dishes. is slightly smoother Dont be scared to and less intensive take the first bite be- than the original cause No.1s Haggis Haggis but no less is really delicious. delicious. It has an excellent Haggis is a culinary nutty, grainy tex- adventure for evWhisky sauce ture and an inten- eryone. Now even The Haggis isnt sive flavour. If you vegetarians have served in a tradition- didnt know it, you no excuse for tryal sheep stomach. wouldnt guess that ing Haggis. Just Instead, it looks re- these little balls are be brave! ally sophisticated as mixed organs. The Ann-Christin Schneider these little fried balls placed on tiny sliced Restaurant No. 1 at High Street: neeps and tatties 1 High Street, Edinburgh EH1 1SR (turnips and potaHours: Sun-Tue 10am-11pm, toes) and a sweet Wed-Sat 10am-1am orange whisky www.no1highstreet.net sauce. Apart from

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Harry Pottersburgh
No, it wasnt mentioned in the books, nor did any filming take place here. Edinburgh, however, is where Joanne Kathleen Rowling found safe harbour and inspiration while she was struggling to finish Harry Potter and the Philosophers Stone. Thus, Edinburgh is an important Potterite destination. Okay, Diagon Alley where Harry, Ron or Hermione bought their wizard wands and brooms or the hidden platform 9 at Kings Cross Station are all places in London. But you would be surprised how many places in Edinburgh are total Potterites. Think about how everything could have started while following her footprints around town. Rowling, as a penniless single mother, is strolling around Edinburgh. She needs more details, more names to complete her story. Here is a list of them:

are any people M : ry te e m Ce many unGreyfriars ur feet so o y th a e rn e g found lying und r that Rowlin e d n o w o N t this told stories. characters a r e h r fo n o ti arate part more inspira urch is a sep ch e th d in h e Walls. place. B d Flodden lle ca rd a y e v actor of the gra a Scottish ll, a g a n o emely bad William McG ty as an extr e ri to o n n o in the who w worst writers e th f o e n o ell, poet and Thomas Ridd d n a , e g a u g English lan mes writjust two na re a r, ie ld Rowlings a so tombs in rk a d e th ead ten in ryffindors h G re a y e books th ort. Mad ord Voldem L d n a r e teach ll. s here as we Eye Moody lie r Row, Candlemake H1 2QQ Edinburgh E

Ann-Christin Schneider

always sat Elephant House Caf: Rowling one of the down on the same table to enjoy all her ting delicious Arabic coffees while put windows ideas together. Look through the Heriots and study the architecture of George School s riot School as she did. George Her Indeed, was her inspiration for Hogwarts. Greyfriit has four houses as well: Castle, enjoyr Afte ars, Lauriston and Raeburn. toilets ing the view and a coffee, go to the gments and read a few of the acknowled Potter. ry Har for Rowling and quotes of ls as well. Maybe write something on the wal rgh EH1 1EN 21 George IV Bridge, Edinbu Fri 8am-11pm, Hours: Mon-Thu 8am-10pm, Sat 9am-11pm, Sun 9am-10pm

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Hogshead: The Hogs Head Inn in Hogsmeade villa run-down place w ge a dirty, here Dumbeldore s Army met. But Hogshead Pub ch the real anged its name in 2009 to The Ambe is a small pub in r Rose. It a cellar in Rose St reet with a beau of the ceiling. It tiful design is the right place to finish a magic a butter ... sorry, al tour with Scottish beer. 2226 Castle Stre et / Rose Street, Edinburgh EH2 4L Hours: Mon-Thu S 11am-12am, Fri-S at 11 am -1am, Sun 12:30pm-12a m

Choco-Latte: Chocolate is hanging from the rafters and countless sweets of every colour and shape are begging for a try. Rowling copied some of the sweets in this little pink shop for her book. Perhaps you can find the famous chocolate frogs in the displays. Take one or two for a really good price (0.69 each) and enjoy them like a Hogwarts student. 39 South Clerk Street, Edinburgh EH8 9NZ Hours: Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10am-4pm

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