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Small Engine Teardown Procedure

KING 6.5 HP ENGINE - Model Number: KCG-65


Locate the Oil Drain Plug, remove, and catch oil into a container so that it can be re-used again after. Refer to Torque Specs for re-installation.

Shut off the fuel feed, remove drain plug from carburetor, and then drain into a CLEAN container.

Remove the air cleaner assembly.

Remove the PCV hose and all springs and linkages attached the carburetor. Remember how the springs are routed and where they all attach! Draw diagrams and take pictures!

Remove the fuel and choke switch cover, disconnect the fuel line (use a bolt to plug the end of the line after), and then remove the carburetor assembly. Be careful not to damage any of the gaskets!

Remove the speed regulating arm.

Put all your nuts and bolts into a Ziploc bag now, and label it #1. Create an inventory list of every fastener, gasket, and part you have removed up until this point.

After removal, STOP, and put all components removed into your storage bin. Remove the muffler protector.

Remove the muffler.

Remove the Spark Plug (using a spark plug socket) and then remove the valve cover

STOP, place all fasteners and gaskets into a Ziploc bag, and label it #2. Create an inventory sheet to list every component removed up until this point.

Now remove the fuel tank. After removal, place fuel line over fuel storage tank, and remove the bolt you used to plug the line to drain fuel.

Next, make marks on the governor arm so that you will know what position to re-install it in after. Also, draw a diagram to show how the throttle and governor springs are all routed.

Disconnect all wires now. Take pictures and draw diagrams to show how they all attach.

When disconnecting wires, and making your diagram, be sure to note where the ground wire is positioned.

Prior to removing the pull-cord/recoil assembly, be sure to make a reference mark of its positioning.

Remove the pull-cord/recoil assembly, followed by the entire bracket/housing it is attached to.

Take a minute to look closely at how the ignition coil generates electricity via electro-magnetism. Note the precise gap/spacing between the coil and the flywheel you will need this for reference later.

Stop. Place all parts, fasteners, and gaskets removed up until this point into a Ziploc bag, and label it #3. Create an inventory sheet to list every component removed up until this point.

Now remove the ignition coil.

And the heat/dust shields behind the flywheel.

After removing the second shield, your engine should look like this:

Place all of these parts into a Ziploc and label it #4. Create another inventory list of these components.

Now remove the crankshaft end bolt. Use a screwdriver to prevent the flywheel from spinning. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE ANYTHING!

The key-way can be easily removed by prying very lightly with a screwdriver.

Use an impact gun to REMOVE the flywheel nut. This will prevent the engine from spinning.

Remove the fan.

The flywheel can easily be removed by striking the side with a hammer DO NOT HIT THE MAGNET! MAKE SURE YOU SEE ME BEFORE DOING THIS!

Lay the engine down on its side now, and SLOWLY remove the crankcase cover. Make sure not to drop any parts. DRAW A DIAGRAM AT THIS POINT

Now you can see how the crankshaft and camshaft are precisely timed together. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until TDC is reached on the intake stroke. This should align the timing marks.

Remove the camshaft, and then remove the two lifters from inside the crankcase. Place all items into a Ziploc & label it #5. Create an inventory list.

Remove the rocker arms and the push-rods.

Remove the push-rod guide, and then draw a diagram of the valve set-up noting the differences between the intake and the exhaust valve.

Press down on the valve springs in order to compress them, and remove the retainers. Carefully lay out each piece you remove.

After removing both valve springs, now remove the valves. NOTE: THEY ARE DIFFERENT! Reassemble each valve assembly and put in a Ziploc.

Remove the two bolts on the connecting rod bearing cap, and remove it.

Draw a diagram showing the orientation of the piston. NOTE: THE ARROW STAMPED ON TOP OF THE PISTON FACES THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE.

Slowly remove the piston from the top of the block, being careful not to damage the rings.

After removing the piston, re-attach the connecting rod bearing cap so as not to lose it. NOTE: IT MUST LINE UP IN THE SAME DIRECTION!

Remove the crankshaft.

Remove the oil level switch bolts.

Remove the nut on the wiring harness in order to remove the oil level switch from the block.

The only items left in the block now are the main bearing and the governor. These do not need to be removed. Have a look at how the governor uses centrifugal force to limit engine speed.

Show the teacher now that you have completely disassembled the engine. All your parts should be neatly organized in the bin.

Time to re-assemble! This should not be a problem because you have clearly documented every step of disassembly and grouped all your parts together