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The history of food in Mumbai is closely linked to the growth of this city from fishing village to megapolis. As wave after wave of immigrants from all over the country came with dreams of gold in their eyes, they brought their culinary treasures with them. The result? A smorgasbord of cooking styles and street food that reflects our cosmopolitanism as much as our carbohydrate-fueled work ethic. Here's a sampling of 40 must-try foods that define Mumbai's food culture, with Muslim, Gujarati, Goan, Coastal, South Indian, Parsi and of course local Maharashtran influences.
1. Akuri on toast
Move over scrambled eggs, the Parsi Akuri cometh. Rated as one of the great Parsi dishes, every family has its own special way of making this breakfast meal. Though variations of the ingredients are vociferously debated, Parsi akuri, Mumb ai's scramb led eggs. Akuri is usually made by scrambling eggs with onions, tomatoes (or even raw mangoes when in season), red chilli powder, green chillies and topped with fresh coriander. Others add milk, jeera (cumin) powder, curry leaves and even ginger and garlic paste.
Try the Akuri on Toast at Jimmy Boy, 11 Bank Street, Vikas Building, Off Horniman Circle, Fort. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2266 2503
2. Baida roti
This one is an interesting envelope. Spiced meat -- chicken or minced mutton, even bheja (brain) -and whipped eggs with masala-fied fried onions enveloped in a square shaped dough and pan fried. Though served with sliced onion rings and green chutney, they're delicious even without accompaniment.
A lot of people swear b y the Baida Roti at Bade Mian, Tullock Road, Behind Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder, evenings only. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2284 8038
3. Batata vada
Whether it's for breakfast, teatime, or anytime, one thing is for sure, Mumbaikars cant live without the Batata Vada bite. This well-liked fast food dumpling is made by mashing boiled potatoes with green chilies, ginger, garlic, lime juice, turmeric, and fresh coriander, then dipped in a besan (gram
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4. Butter chicken
This ubiquitous dish traces its roots to the days of the Mughals when calorie counting was a thing of the future. This must-order dish when Indian families go out for dinner is made from chunks of chicken, marinated overnight in a yogurt and spice mix that includes ginger garlic paste and lime juice. It is then grilled or pan-fried. An ultra rich sauce made with butter, tomato puree, cumin, garam masalas and fresh cream is then poured over it. Best had with Indian breads like rotis, naan or parathas. Don't confuse it with chicken tikka masala, which is a story for another day. While available at every kind of eatery, the butter chicken at Punjab Grill is worth dying for. Level 3, Palladium Mall, Phoenix Mills, Lower Parel. Tel: +91 (0) 22 4347 3980
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This street side invention is a combination of the most unlikely ingredients. Lavishly buttered white bread and sandwiched between them thin slices of beetroot, boiled potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, onion rings, and mint chutney. Cut into four The classic Bomb ay Sandwich. triangles so that you can handle all the layers without spilling them, you get the most refreshing tangy taste, after each bite. A toasted version steams up the vegetables inside and adds another dimension. Truly, there is no other sandwich quite like it in the world. Though widely available through out the city, try it at Amar Juice Centre, near Cooper Hospital, opp. Juhu Galli. Or the Mafco Stall outside Worli Dairy on Worli Sea Face.
6. Bheja fry
Bheja, or goat brain, sauted with tomatoes, onions, turmeric, green chillies, spices and garnished with fresh coriander, is a staple of all those with Bheja fry, fried b rain, not for the weak hearted. hardcore carnivorous leanings in the city. Eaten with a roti (Indian bread) or pao, this melt in the mouth dish has a rich Muslim heritage behind it and you often find that one plate is not enough. Radio Restaurant, 10, Musafir Khana, Palton Road, Tel: +91 (0) 22 2261 7171, serves up a really good Bheja Fry.
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7. Bombil fry
Bombil, or Bombay Duck, is a fish (and not a duck) found in plenty in the waters around Mumbai. A fisher folk favourite, Bombils are flattened, then dipped in a spice-filled besan (gram flour) batter and fried. This crunchy-on-the-outside and mushy-soft-on-the-inside fish dish can be eaten on its own as a starter, or as a main
course with chapattis. Gajalee restaurant does a mean Bombil Fry. They have branches at Hanuman Road, Vile Parle (E), Tel: +91 22 26114093. And at Phoenix Mills, Lower Parel, Tel: +91 22 2495 0667
8. Brun maska
You may wonder how bread and butter can become such an iconic union. But it's not merely bread and this is not merely butter. It's brun or gutli pao -- a local bread that is unique to Mumbai -- and it's crisp and hard and crumbly on the outside and soft inside. The Brun is then sliced and lashings of butter are applied lavishly. Some even sprinkle quite a bit of sugar. It is usually accompanied by the sweet Irani chai. Dipping the brun maska in the chai is the only way to eat it. Available at most Irani restaurants, the Brun Maska at Kyani & Co is historic. 657 Jer Mahal Estate, Opp. Metro Cinema, Dhobi Talao, Tel: +91 (0) 22 2201 1492. Also try it at B Merwan, Opp. Grant Road Station (E), Tel: +91 (0) 22 2309 3321
9. Bhel puri
The most commonly sold chaat on the streets of Mumbai, every bhel walla will have his own matchless blend and a considerable 7pm fan following. While the ingredients -puffed rice, papadi (small crisp deep fried flour puris), sev, onions, potatoes, raw mango and sweet and sour chutney -- remain the same, it is the proportions in which they are thrown together on the street side that makes the difference.
Bhel puri is available everywhere. The stalls at Chowpatty and Juhu beaches draw throngs of diehard fans. But if you want a bhel puri with ambience, try it at Sea Lounge, Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder. Tel: +91 (0) 22 6665 3366
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14. Falooda
This adaptation of a Persian dessert was brought to India by the Mughals. A rich drink, Falooda is vermicelli mixed with milk, almonds, pistachios, a bit of rose syrup and the key ingredient -- sabza or basil seeds -topped up with two scoops of ice cream. Refreshing, rosy, energizing, it's a great pick-me-up on a hot day.
Falooda, a desi dessert.
Badshah, at 152/156 LT Marg, Opp. Crawford Market. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2342 1943, has a reputation for their
falooda.
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16. Frankie
Inspired by the Lebanese pita bread wrap and suitably Indianized, the Frankie, or should I say the Tibbs Frankie, has satiated hordes of the hungry in search of a quick lip-smacking snack. Basically, it's a juicy naan bread with an egg coating and stuffed with mutton or chicken, rolled up and sprinkled with a unique masala that gives it its special flavor. The vegetarian option does not use eggs and the stuffings include paneer or potatoes. Available all over the city. For a Tibbs Frankie closest to you, call +91 (0) 22 2821 4698
19. Kebabs
While the kebab per se may not be unique to Mumbai or the region, a few varieties that emerged from the Bohri Muslim community are truly unique. Gurda (kidney) and kaleji (liver) top this list. Charcoal grilled, they go great with freshly sliced onions and a squeeze of lime. Try it at Ayubs, on the street behind Rhythm House, Kala Ghoda, open only in the evenings. The best beef kebabs are to be found at Sarvi, 184/196 Dimtimkar Road, opposite Nagpada Police Station, Byculla (W). Tel: +91 9833 533 305. And for some outstanding north west frontier style Kebabs, go to Peshawari, ITC Grand Maratha, Sahar Road, Andheri (E), Tel: +91 (0) 22 2830 3030
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23. Modak
A Maharashtrian sweet prepared during the Ganesh festival around August, modak is offered to Lord Ganesha, the elephant-headed god, because it is his favorite sweet. Wheat flour dough kneaded with milk, stuffed with grated coconut and mixed with sugar or jaggery. Shaped like a teardrop and steamed or fried. Typically 21 are made as an auspicious offering to the god and tons more for the rest of the family. It's a pity that it's made only once a year and in this region. Some sweet shops do keep modak during the festival season but it is made of khoya (thickened milk) and is not the real thing. For that, youll have to drop into a home that is celebrating the festival.
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University, Fountain. Find a member to take you there. Failing which, go to Britannia, Wakefield House, 11 Sprott Road, Ballard Estate. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2261 5264
Try it at Jai Hind Lunch Home, 6 Mantri Corner, Gokhale Road South, Dadar. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2431 4256
Though widely available at local restaurants, try the sinful pao bhaji at Sardar, 166A Tardeo Road Junction, Opp. Bus Depot, Tardeo. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2353 0208
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The best Nalli Nihari can be had at Noor Mohammadi, 179 Wazir Building, Abdul Hakim Noor Mohammadi Chowk, Bhendi Bazaar. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2347 6188. Just make sure you reach before noon or you may leave disappointed.
33. Samosa
It's best to bite into a hot one, hiding under a street stall during a typical Mumbai monsoon downpour. When you go through the crisp crust, you meet the steaming and savory-with-a-hint-of-
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sour chunks of spiced potatoes and peas. Lovingly shaped into triangles and deep fried, these calorie busters are worth the one week that youll need on the treadmill to work it off. But a samosa can also give you heart at that last leg of your day when transport is not in sight, it's dark and there's a long way home. You can ask for Guru Kripa samosas at many stores across Mumbai. Or go to the original Guru Kripa Hotel, 40, Guru Kripa Building, near SIES College, Sion. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2407 1237
34. Sizzlers
As kids, a sizzler was part of the "growing up in Mumbai" experience. The sight of a sizzler arriving at your table, like an old steam engine, sizzling and steaming and spluttering to a halt in front of you, was an exciting experience. A combination Mumb ai's favorite sizzler from Kob e. of grilled meats and vegetables served on what looks like a hot chunk of black iron, with a side of mashed potatoes or fries and gravy. Sizzlers come in several vegetarian options too. Long lines at restaurants are a testimony to its enduring popularity. Give sizzlers a try at places synonymous with the word. Such as Kobe, 13/14 Sukh Sagar, Hughes Road, Opera House. Tel: +91 (0) 22 23632174. Or Yoko, West View, S V Road, near Akbarallys, Santacruz (W). Tel: +91 (0) 22 2649 2313
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Zhunka b hakar.
If you wanted to name one truly soul satisfying food of Mumbai city, then this would be it. The simple and truly humble dish is made by lightly tempering cooked-till-soft toor dal (a lentil) with ghee (clarified butter), turmeric and cumin powder. Served over steaming hot rice, or bhaat, it assumes magical, mythical proportions. A staple in Maharashtrian homes, that's really where you should be eating it. But do give Diva Maharashtracha a try. T H Kataria Marg, Mahim. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2445 4433.
Writer, filmmaker, foodie, and digital artist. Currently working on my first 'Bollywood' feature film.
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